Chateau Rauzan-Segla at Chambers - Hmmm....

May 24th 2016

Not sure what I was expecting from this one. Perhaps a little something more, though not exactly sure what at this point. Something felt…   missing. Possibly alcohol. And a bit of romancing. And maybe less subdued lighting. The somewhat austere setting somehow reflected the wines and the seemingly meagre servings thereof. It would end up somehow not as convivial as other events. Perhaps my having been recently wowed by the Ornellaia outing elevated my expectations. Maybe it was all of this. It just all felt… odd, and not somehow complete. Strange...

Got a Whatsapp from Chambers Bobby advising of the dinner and the early bird price of 20% discount and quickly got a confirmed seven of the various gang members for the dinner. It looked good - a vertical of four Chateau Rauzan-Segla vintages being paired with Chambers food for RM336 after the discount. It gets so difficult to say no when the deals look this good. 

We arrived at the KL Hilton having snagged a lift from some table guests and got welcomed by the waiting staff and a friendly glass of fizz. Little bit of chatting at the lounge area with familiar faces and staff before getting ushered into the restaurant. Seemed to be a little bit of confusion at the front desk in deciding where it was we were to be seated, but with Lenglui sighting a table set for seven we planted ourselves there before anyone could say different. We know.

Bobby tried to get everyone's attention but ultimately failed thanks to one table of particularly boisterous and apparently (judging by the accents) native Frenchmen who refused to quiet down. Bobby introduced a Mmselle who was apparently from Rauzan-Segla Chateau (didn't get the name and didn't get an introduction from the Milawa people) to say a few words. And they were indeed few - possibly less than fifty which were to prove the only ones these ears would hear from her, which kind of begs the question as to why she got invited in the first place? Though Mmselle was later seen to be engaged in serious conversation with the Frenchies. And it was her first time in Malaysia, so possibly she had not been briefed on the expectations and niceties of saying something about the Chateau and the wines to the expectant public (could this not have been explained to her in advance? Market the Rauzan by romancing its fans? Feels like a big opportunity got missed here). 

Half of the wine

Maybe this was part of the dampener on the evening - expecting a decent run down on the wines and why we were having these particular vintages, given that this was serious Bordeaux and decent vintages. Kind of like expecting answers to why were we drinking them and why were they being paired with the particular dishes? Cigku Lim questioned the order in which the wines were being presented (in this instance, youngest to oldest) rather than in Parkerian ranking. My guess was that this was probably at someone's insistence - older is always better, n'est-ce pas? - and that such thinking ultimately prevailed. I might have juggled the earlier wines a bit and had the 2005 after the 2001 and 1998 but there you go. We all agreed it was a privilege just to be sat there drinking them. 

Château Rauzan-Ségla is a wine property in the Margaux appellation of France's Bordeaux and the name of the "Deuxièmes Cru" (Second Growth) red wine produced by this property. Originally part of a vast estate owned by Pierre de Mesures de Rauzan in the mid-17th century, the 51 hectare estate is presently owned by the Wertheimer family of Chanel (acquired 1994). Since this time, the winemaking has remained under the oversight of David Orr and John Kolasa (both from Chateau Latour) and anecdotally the wines have seen continuous improvement. 

The other half...

Lenglui and I had actually visited Chateau Rauzan-Segla as part of our 2013 trip to Bordeaux with the IWFS (excellently organised by fellow Committee member and wine restaurateur Yin-How of Vintry and Stoked fame) and it was one of our favourites. Located up a winding road through fields of the vine, we entered through an arch and got off the bus in a gravel crunching courtyard which led into a delightfully appointed property. As said, the Chateau is currently owned by the same group that owns Chanel. I remember a well ordered and neat Chateau in perfect spring sunshine with a smallish cellar and a lot of history posted on the walls and parked around the wine making area. 

I have had a soft spot for the Rauzan wines ever since I got bowled over by a 1997 I bought at Heathrow Airport in my early wine drinking days and which got drunk at home with Dr Gan circa 2004. That boy was sleek, fragrant, elegant, and with a lean understated power that seared to the soul. Again, perhaps because this wine holds such a special memory for me meant that my expectations were above normal. As memory serves, the wines we had at the Chateau were a bit on the reedy side, though one was the 2012 EP and the other was circa 2009 and a bit young on the day.

All the wines had been decanted and the staff were doing the rounds, being gingerly careful as to not to overpour the precious juice. I had earlier counted twenty opened bottles and about 38 people. Part of me silently prayed for a miracle along the loaves and fishes line.

Chicken Liver Parfait - yum

Foodwise, the Chicken Liver Pate (sorry, Parfait) was excellent with the softly crunchy Brioche and the Poached Pears (poached apparently in Rauzan-Segla wine if I heard right) gave a sweet sourish hit to the whole. Great salt and texture on the Pate, real sense of the countryside with this. Can't beat being parked somewhere with a chunk of bread, a hunk of butter, a slab of pate and a jug of wine - little slice of heaven on earth. The 2005 was clearly young, though full of firm forest fruit and everything else in very good balance. Good vintage and a well made wine. Hope I'm still around in ten years time to be able to try it. Can never take any day for granted. 

The Potato and Truffle soup felt a bit gunky and under-seasoned and though we could smell the truffle as it made its way to the table it seemed to have evaporated by the time the spoon hit the (pleasingly) warm bowl. Cigku took a spoon of soup and poured a couple of drops of the wine into it. Monkey seeing, I naturally had to try and found it gave a pleasant vinegar hit to the gunk. The onions were also apparently prepared with some of the wine, though the whole came over as sweet. This made for good contrast with the potato, though as expected the soup numbed whatever friskiness there was in the wine into total submission. And there was indeed little friskiness in the 2001; it was more the Rauzan I remember from that first sip of the 1997 lean austerity and teeth shearing tannins. Wonderful. Whilst the rest of the table seemed to prefer the more approachable and more forgiving 2005, Cigku and I were lost in the fierce demands of the 2001. Totally classic lean Margaux.

From under-seasoned to marginal over-seasoned, the Beetroot Tart was a great array of textures - walnut, arugula and cheese all fusing together to form a softly crunchy salty fired up salad goo that nicely prickled the tongue and cheeks. A good mix of salt and sweet with the beetroot, but as said a shade over salted for my taste and tolerance (which is admittedly low). 

The first impression of the 1998 was "wow" - big fruit on the nose, austere in the mouth with lean chewy tannins and a sucky dry kind of grip on the gullet leading to a full blown finish. Excellent balance, though perhaps at its peak with the fruit showing less prominence and a question for me as to whether there is sufficient for long term storage. Though I must confess to not knowing too much about wines aged more than 20 years - in fifty this will probably still knock socks off. Very nice at this time though. 

Beetroot Tart with St Maure Cheese Gratin

The Cheese seemed to give a metallic shock on the teeth, a bit like getting a quick layer of enamel removed, but otherwise a bit of a miss match-wise with the food. Which was not unexpected. This kind of lean Margaux Bordeaux needs lamb or something less complicated to work its magic. I had a 2001 Chateau Margaux (my first!) with Cigku Lim the previous Friday at Cilantro with some amazing beef and it sang La Marseillaise with a wagyu whack - brilliant wine. The Rauzan would equally have sang with a hunk of decent beef (though perhaps more Maurice Chevalier than Edith Piaf). Not enough fruit in the wine to square off with the salty cheese and acetic beetroot. 

The Cranberry granite did a sound service in cleaning the throat and the mint leaf remains continual genius for a pop of mouth fresh ahead of the course de resistance the Wagyu Beef Cheek. Equally out in the decanter was the vin de resistance for the night, the 1996. 

O lovely the wine. Power, elegance and balance in a glass. Imagine a 20 year wine with a 5 year mouth. Delicious wine and the total business. Hong Kong price on Winesearcher was about RM450 (excl tax) which seems a deal if anyone is going there. The 1996 still has tremendous power and class and elegance, and seems ready for another ten years in the bottle. In contrast, the 1998 felt fading and maybe has another couple of years though it may already be peaking. The 2005 is full and potent and at least another ten to twenty years, though a question mark over whether enough fruit to sustain. The 2001 is probably ready to drink up.

Slow Braised Wagyu Beef Cheek

The Beef Cheeks disappointed. Notwithstanding good texture, the table was pretty unanimous in saying there was "no taste" and most of us left it pretty untouched. It felt…  a bit dried, perhaps over braised? Or perhaps just a bad bit of cow. Whatever, it was all piled onto one plate for take home for the dogs. Or the cats. Bit of a sad fate for a Wagyu cow when you think of it… In contrast the Spinach was total Popeye the Sailor Man iron greens and the potato was firm and butter pleasant. As was the creamy cold and mint chocolate crunch of the Pecan ice cream and Brownie that ended the evening's dining. We all seemed to leave pretty quickly after dessert - didn't feel like any real reason to stay. The Rauzan-Segla lady didn't much make it past the French boys table and seemed to be fully engaging with them and evidently not likely to make it to us at any time soon. Given also that the booze had clearly finished, it became allons mes braves et va bien! 

Chocolate Brownie, Pecan Ice Cream - very good!

In sum, a fair but ultimately somewhat disappointing evening. In comparison to the Ornellaia at the Graze upstairs, this was dull. Foodwise, winewise, ambience and the hosting - all dull. Some of the wines were magnificent, others very good, though none of them seemed to stay well in the glass through the night. They all got a bit thin and reedy, with the fruit evaporating to leave austere tannic sips. The aromas disappeared very quickly. 

Same with the food - some dishes were good and some okay only. The beef cheeks were well textured but ultimately lacking taste. With the benefit of hindsight, part of me wonders whether the decision to use the Chateau Rauzan-Segla wine as an ingredient in the various dishes was a good idea. Whilst I recognise the wow factor in cooking with the wine of the Chateau, I'm not entirely sure it did either the food or the wine any favours in their respective regards. Had, for example, the jus with the beef been a shade meatier from omitting the wine then perhaps it could have been saved? 

And the real absence of any romance or occasion on the part of the host and the venue let the evening fall quite flat. Even the normally ebullient and irrepressible FBQ was unusually quiet. I think some of us expected a bit more across all the departments. So it goes.

Notwithstanding, it must be said that wine-wise for the money this was still a good deal at RM336 to be able to taste top end Bordeaux with serious food. Well, it would have been had there been more booze. Seems these bottles had come straight from the Chateau, so I guess that they may be looking to unload them at some near future time. As said, I counted twenty uncorked bottles on show, and with 38 people in for the dinner this pans out at about half a bottle per person. WAY way not enough. 

Bobby says they are looking to grow the KL Hilton wine dinner business. Not sure if this is going to work long term - same chef and venue often means similar food at each event which gets a bit repetitive month after month. And if the wine serving is going to be as parsimonious as it was on this occasion, I am definitely going to have to bring an extra bottle or two to get my crowd through the night. We are a very thirsty bunch.  Salut!

Chateau Rauzan-Segla Wine Dinner

24th May 2016 Chambers Bar & Grill, KL Hilton

Chicken Liver Parfait, Charred Brioche, Chateau Rauzan-Segla Poached Pear

Chateau Rauzan-Segla 2005

Potato and Truffle Soup, Ciabata, Chateau Rauzan-Segla Onion Confit

Chateau  Rauzan-Segla 2001

Beetroot Tart, Gratinated St Maure Goat's Cheese Gratin, Arugula Balsamico di Modena, Chateau Rauzan-Segla Pickeld Walnuts

Chateau  Rauzan-Segla 2001

Cranberry Granite

Slow Braised Wagyu Beef Cheek, Yukon gold Mash, Baby Spinach, Chateau Rauzan-Segla Jus

Chateau  Rauzan-Segla 1996

Warm Chocolate Brownie, Butterscotch Sauce, Pecan Ice Cream

IWFS at Dewakan - Best dinner this year!

Dewakan interior

April 21st 2016

Have to say I was initally apprehensive about attending this one. Foodie friend Julian's blog posting on his visit put the fear of perdition about the journey to get there in me. Though his enthusiastic reaction to the food was heartening. And Jeremy was championing the restaurant and numbers were a bit low. And when Lenglui said we would probably never otherwise go there, then the deal was sealed.

But O Lordy, what a deal. Dewakan ticked all the foodie boxes on the page. Ambience, service, food - absolutely stunning. Best event of the IWFS season. Will DEFINITELY go back with foodie friends who want to know what Malaysian chefs can do with Malaysian produce. Darren Teoh is a total star. 

Dewakan has been making waves in the KL foodie universe for quite some time. Frequently cited as Kuala Lumpur’s most exciting restaurant to date, the MIGF 2015 brochure (I think - can't find it now) holds it to be "an ingredient focused restaurant that reflects the bounty of produce from Malaysia. The cuisine is driven by the use of local and indigenous ingredients in the most imaginative way possible. Every aspect of the restaurant has been curated to deliver an enjoyable experience to our guests with as much emphasis to the service as it is to the food."

It is essentially an academy for future cooks and students keen to get into the hospitality sector, hence its location in a Private University. But it does open to the public for dinner from Thursday to Saturday to let the staff and students get some real world experience. It also does lunch Monday to Friday. The restaurant is helmed by Darren Teoh who is an avid believer in the beauty of local ingredients. Seems he began his career as a cook in Les Amis Singapore (No. 13 on Asia’s 50 Best Restaurant List 2016) and recently moved back to Malaysia to teach culinary arts in KDU University College Sdn Bhd. During this time at the school, he has authored "Redefinition", a collection of Malaysian dishes reinterpreted using modern culinary techniques. He was also briefly attached to Restaurant Amador (3 Michelin stars) in Langen, Germany and Restaurant Noma (2 Michelin stars and World’s Best Restaurant by Restaurant Magazine for 2010, 2011, 2012 and 2014). 

The Dewakan blurb also says that the team there is obsessed with developing a restaurant where guests return home with great memories. I usually get a bit skeptical when I see what looks like romantic seduction - when I see it I usually find that the experience rarely matches such hyperbole. On this occasion, though, my skepticism was wonderfully unfounded. This one was a total event. 

It was a bit of a drive into the unknown to get here, but Waze performed like a trouper and got us there with little fuss or wrong turnings. I had recce'd the place on the Google Maps in the office and got an idea of where it was, though without the Waze the final few turns to try and arrive would eventually have killed me. Waze rocks! It told us to avoid Federal and take the E20 toll road. Only downside with the Waze is the apprehension you get when it goes quiet for a long time. We know that this means that all is mostly well, but perhaps a bit of reassurance would be… reassuring. Still took about 45 minutes to an hour to get there. 

Once in the KDU University complex, Jeremy had stuck IWFS signs on the fences leading to the car park. The serious looking guard at the gate turned out to be totally unintelligible in terms of what he was trying to tell us, but we smiled and he smiled and opened the gate and as we went straight we saw the Dewakan directly ahead of us.  There was an outside section where cars had already parked so we just followed suit. I think the Guard wanted us to park in the covered area - perhaps he thought it was going to rain. Nice man.

Sporting a glass frontage which looked out onto an open area, Dewakan has a classically modern ambience and feel about it. Dark oak floors with soft but sufficient lighting on neutral grey chairs and walls and with easy space between the sheeted tables.The kitchen is at one end with a serving area through which all the preparation can be seen, and a bar area at the other where those who had presumably come straight from the office were sucking down the Pol Roger NV with a vengeance. When I see this I know it's going to be good - people were in the mood to party. On a Thursday night some more.   Here we go again...

"What's he doing?" "Something cheffy." 

Some appetizers came round which were tasty enough, though there was one green leaf offering that had been shocked by something into frozen crispness and was absolutely amazing. This must have been the thing that Julian wanted to leap onto the tables and sing to the heavens about. It was something else. It came with a dip which was also brilliant. Only problem was that the darn thing kept breaking in the dip and I ended up eating the leaf and gunk Banana Leaf finger style. Most excellent, though hardly IWFS. So it goes - never stand on ceremony when the food will not allow one to do so.

The Willy Doctor and...  uh...  friend. Yes.

There was also a spring roll of raw potato and radish which bit nicely into the cheek and tongue. And it was all belter with the Pol Roger. I seem to have been supping a lot of this at various parties over the past few weeks or so. Must be a lot of in in the market at the moment, and at a fair price. Have to investigate - it is a crispily pleasant drop of fizz. 

We got instructed to sit down and get addressed by President David who thanked Jeremy, May and me for our contributions to the evening's festivities. We were sat with an IWFS newbie and our good friend the Willy Doctor, one of our resident urologists now making his celebrity name on the Friday BFM afternoon radio show. We normally have a quiet bet on how long it takes from the moment of getting seated with the good doctor to when the subject gets around to the penis. Normally takes about eight minutes - tonight it was three. It WAS going to be a good evening.

The bread came out with butter bedded on a leaf we were later told was cashew and which gave a bitter hit when chewed. Can't remember the butter, but the fizz needed some carbo and it was time to shut up and drink and enjoy the combo.

First out was the Blue Mackerel which looked a bit small on the plate and smelled a bit fishy on the nose, though it was full on flavour in the mouth and with good bite and chew. Nice touch of sharp freshness added by the Ulam Raja and Pomelo. The flowers added bright prettiness and lovely colour to the visual aspect and were pleasantly crisp in the mouth. Good engagement of all the senses on this dish, especially if one ate the flowers with the fingers. 

Cured Mackerel, Ulam Raja, Pomelo, Local Flowers 

Getting paired with the clean and lean Lafon made sense. Squeaky on the cheeks and throat and understated on the finish, with soft clean pears in the mouth. For some reason the flowers from the first course seemed to be strangely repeating with the wine. This was a most odd experience, like burping a bouquet of petals. There you go - only in Malaysia. 

Course 2 was the braised Aubergine which came out looking like a chunk of moss you might find  stuck to the root of a tree on the roadside. It looked like green dirt, putting me in mind of something you might find at Akelare or Mugaritz in the Basque. Tastewise, it came across like a delicately textured dim sum dish of fried onion in the mouth (the aubergine in the mushroom stock), with brown and white garlic sauces forming the visual yin and yang of the dish and giving salt and heat. Never did find out what the crunchy green dirt was, though the menu says Jackfruit seeds. It felt like fried peas that had been frozen and crushed. There was a delicate cobweb of glaze strung across the top which seemed to evaporate on contact with my breath on it. 

Aubergine braised in Mushroom Stock, Jackfruit Seeds, Black Bean Sauce and Garlic Emulsion 

Yet there was something essentially and quintessentially Malaysian about it. It had that dim sum feel of Cantonese cuisine but using the Brinjal and mushroom seemed to bring that vegetal earthiness you get at the Banana Leaf stall. And the green crunch gave a Rojak texture. This one captured the essence of each and fused them together into something that transcended the individual elements. Somehow encapsulating all the major cuisines into a single combo. Brilliant, brilliant. 

None of this sadly did much for the wine -  the gungey mushroom aubergine seemed to bring out an oily note to the Lafon. Not a great match, but the wine was still lovely enough to cut through. Though it did seem to run out quite quickly - a call for an extra glass was met with a report that it had all gone. Barely had a glass and a half - someone somewhere must have been sucking it down. Same with some of the later wines - didn't feel like there was quite enough before getting told it had all gone. Seems that 32 people drank 40 plus bottles, so either there was indeed enough or some tables had a better time than others. Couldn't really complain - both wine and food were excellent so perhaps an excess of one over the other might have upended the balance. Is just that you always feel you're missing out when there's not quite enough booze to satisfy. Like someone else is getting all the love. 

The Stonier (as memory serves) had been decanted and showed a lovely classic Pinot nose and beautiful cherry pop and pepper mouth and finish. The balance was excellent, as was the acidity, length and finish. Eight years in bottle, it was drinking well with a silkiness and ease that we don't see too often. Beautiful wine. 

The waiting staff came out with a spoon and chopsticks ahead of the third course, which also somehow seemed to underline the desire to encapsulate Malaysian cuisine in its diverse totality. You don't often get changes of mixed cuisine fighting irons across a multi course meal. 

The third dish was the noodles which had amazing texture - felt like biting through octopus legs. The broth was brilliant - a fantastic zip of chives and pepper with a lovely blend of tastes and textures across the dish and a great sense of umami about this one. Lot of chives here, whose texture suggested they had been lightly toasted. Quite herbal. Mixed with the daisy fresh solid chunk of Prawn, it was Ipoh Hor Fun but amplified into loud bold taste. Again, one of those where you absolutely KNOW you have had this Soul Food before and many times but not in this context and not with this delicacy or sense of the essential. Perfect seasoning. My note at the time was "dam fantastic, dam fantastic." Could have slurped this one all night. Now for THIS one I might sing and dance on the tables…   so good.

Steamed Ming Prawns, Brined Radish, Dried Vegetables, Cold Prawn Broth 

At this point, I began to notice how good and efficient was the standard of the waiting service. So far it had been quietly polite and unobtrusive and it was only when I saw a new napkin folded on the table after a bathroom break that it registered. This level of attention you tend not to expect in Malaysia. When I asked a question about one of the ingredients, our serving friend was quick and knowledgeable in the response. Seems they cleared from the left side which I was advised was the proper side to so do. There you go - learning all the time. One point of critique - they did not pour wine for the ladies first. Well, they ARE trying to be Malaysian, no?

I also noticed that the food seemed to come out all at the same time and in pretty quick succession time following the plate clearance. Chef clearly has a tight lid on the kitchen. 

Dish Four was the Smoked Pike Conger, Custard, Fermented Long Beans Relish, Roasted Okra, and Clams Foam. This dish seemed to give off an almost deconstructed Japanese feel, kind of like a whole Bento lunch crammed into a single dish. But without the rice.  The Pike felt steamed and had a full on Tilapia chew and whack in the belly. There was a Tau Foo feel on the mushroom, and a good vegetal hit from the Okra whilst the custard gave it that chawan mushi egg custard feel. The tastes melded well whilst the belly could not complain about the fullness of it all. And the Thai Basil leaves were genius, giving a sweet soft fire and herbal hit to the whole thing. Perhaps for me a question over the clam foam - it did give some good air to the dish but for some reason I got a duck hit. Perhaps it was me, but there did seem to be some clash going on and the clams were in the forefront. Good dish on the whole, though. Very filling and well tasty. Got a double wow in the notes.

Smoked Pike Conger, Custard, Fermented Long Beans Relish, Roasted Okra, Clams Foam 

The Stonier was also being paired with the Pike. I have no notes on the pairing. Lenglui kindly let me see off the remains of her Lafon which had retained its spritzy clean feel in the glass. Very nice. 

The immediate reaction to the duck breast was "ducky" - that nose and mouthfeel that suggests a bit gamey and farmyard - but this duckiness faded after the first bite. Lovely chunk of duck meat and delightfully roasted. The Rillette was equally excellent - great texture, and seasoning and reminiscent of the big beefy meatballs we would get at the Cardiff Indoor Market when I was a kid - meat, fat, salt and pepper and oozing taste. Fantastic - love it when the tastes take you back in time. Though I would have liked some bread and butter to add some fat and counter the slight dryness which the blood sauce did not quite seem to address. [Note - when I was a kid these meatballs had a name - faggots. I would have used it in the text but I recognise some people are sensitive to its use. Shame - in this context, for me it's the absolute descriptor I associate with the taste - they were brilliant with tinned peas and vinegar and gravy. There you go. Strange how some words gain a dissociative meaning over time totally at odds with their original understanding].

Roast Duck Breast, Duck Leg Rillette, Beetroots, "Blood" Sauce 

I had reservations when I saw the Marimar Pinot being dug out for the dinner. This was a massive full on chew-and-spit-pips wine and roared like a bear when we had it with lamb about three years back at the Saujana. But on the night it was a belter - still full in the mouth, but far more in balance and with lovely pepper and a range of textures through the drinking process. Fading slightly, and still with a slight barnyard tang on the nose, but ultimately power and class and so good to have drunk it now. The fullness of the wine meant it stood up well to the chunky rich and tasty Rillette and the tannins cut the Duck breast purines perfectly. Good match. 

Dessert was Gula Melaka which paired slightly warm Pulut ice cream with soft coconut to create a wonderful sensation of the freshest coconut flesh. I got a slight hit of Toddy, that sweet smelly hooch made from fermented coconut which, when paired with the meringue and marquiese, produced a wonderful airy crunch and bite with a boozy coconut rasp. Wow. 

Gula Melaka Marquise, Sour Meringue, Pulut Ice Cream

Chef Darren and team came out to take a bow and photos. I had a quick chat, though others were very keen to get selfied with him. Clear passion for the use of local procuce in the creations and pushing the creations in terms of technique and combinations. His parting shot to me was "keep spreading the word." Any way I can, Chef, any way I can...   Save your pennies for this one - it will be worth it. There is a wine list, though if you are as fussy as we are at the IWFS you will want to take your own. Crisp spicy whites with a cracking Pinot for the duck will do you. Kudos to the Kiwi for his choices in this one. 

Dewakan staff with Chef Darren Teoh (right)

Chef Teoh clearly has culinary roots in Chinese cuisine yet his grasp of quintessential Malaysian tastes coupled with his ability to isolate and infuse them into the predominantly Malaysian produce based creations I find to be quite brilliant. There ARE quintessential Malaysian tastes across all the cuisines you can find here, and Chef having found a way to showcase them makes this a truly unique Malaysian dining experience. Fine Malaysian Cuisine dining. At last. 

Chef Darren Teoh with Dato' Jeremy Diamond, IWFS

One of the dinners of the year - actually of the last few years. Total standout in terms of memorable ambience, service, food preparations and tastes, and paired wines and company. Absolutely memorable across all boxes. Do go there if you get the chance. Especially if someone else is driving.

Thank you Dewakan - get you a double ARNIE - I'll be back - more than once.

DEWAKAN

Lower Ground Floor
KDU University College, Utropolis Glenmarie
Jalan Kontraktor U1/14, Seksyen U1,
40150 Shah Alam, Selangor, Malaysia
 +60355650767

Website: http://www.dewakan.my
Email: dewakan@kdu.edu.my

Visit us on Facebook

OPERATING HOURS

Lunch: Mon to Fri – 12 Noon to 2:30pm
Dinner: Thur to Sat – 7pm to 9pm
Closed on Sundays and certain public holidays.

For Phone Reservations:
Monday to Friday only @
10am to 12pm, and 3pm to 5pm only.

Farewell Milky Ice Lollies

THE 6 COURSE MENU

Appetizers

Aperitif - Pol Roger Brut Reserve

01 BLUE MACKEREL

Cured Mackerel, Ulam Raja, Pomelo, Local Flowers 

Heretier Lafon Vire Cleese 2013

02 BRAISED AUBERGINE 

Aubergine braised in Mushroom Stock, Jackfruit Seeds, Black Bean Sauce and Garlic Emulsion 

Heretier Lafon Vire Cleese 2013

03 HOME MADE NOODLE 

Steamed Ming Prawns, Brined Radish, Dried Vegetables, Cold Prawn Broth 

Stonier Pinot Noir Reserve 2008

03 PIKE CONGER 

Smoked Pike Conger, Custard, Fermented Long Beans Relish, Roasted Okra, Clams Foam 

Stonier Pinot Noir Reserve 2008

05 DUCK 

Roast Duck Breast, Duck Leg Rillette, Beetroots, "Blood" Sauce 

Marimar Estate Pinot Noir "Don Miguel Vineyard La Masia" 2006

06 GULA MELAKA 

Gula Melaka Marquise, Sour Meringue, Pulut Ice Cream

THE WINES

Pol Roger Champagne NV

This great wine is distinguished by much more than its links with Winston Churchill. The mid palate weight may come from a generous use of reserve wines yet the lemony core and brisk fine bubbles continue to make this a very fine and  classy Grand Marque champagne.

Hertier Lafon  Vire Cleesse 2013

This widely sought after Macconais Chardonnay is well integrated in its fruit, minerality and subtle oak.  From Wine Advocate 90 points Oct 2014 ” The 2013 Vire-Clesse has an utterly charming nose that seems more finished than the others, with fine tension and focus. The palate is very well-balanced with fine acidity. This comes over as being very precise and poised.”

Wine Enthusiast 90 points

Stonier Pinot Noir Reserve, Mornington Peninsula 2008 

This wine pulled from deep in our cellars is crafted by the renowned Mornington Peninsula producer with Burgundian nuances and evident maritime influences Vines date back to the late 70s. Savoury notes will delight Pinot lovers in this evolved wine. A subtle Pinot for sure, with fruit, but not overpowered. There are layers of flavour over a solid back drop of oak with pretty aromas and tastes structured around a raspberry and cherry core.

Marimar Estate Pinot Noir "Don Miguel Vineyard La Masia" 2006

“The color is a beautiful garnet, classic Russian River - as is the fruit, loaded with black cherry flavors. There's mocha in the nose and perfectly balanced hints of elegant oak, which contributes a rich texture. The mouthfeel is round and engaging, classic Pinot Noir, with a note of lively spice at the end. The finish is long and the wine shows great aging potential. Alcohol 14.1% bv. (From Winemaker’s notes)

"This vineyard, in the cool Green Valley part of Napa, continues to produce outstanding, ageworthy Pinot Noirs of distinction. The 2006 is a large, powerful wine, distinctly Californian, packed with cherry, cranberry, cola and spice flavors that are immature in their fresh jamminess. But with a dramatic tannin-acid structure, and a just-right touch of new French oak, it will improve in the cellar. Best after 2010." (Wine Enthusiast 93/100)

Lao Jui Lou in Taman Bukit Desa - solid tasty Ramen

Quick shout out for Lao Jui Lou in Taman Bukit Desa. We have come here a couple of times for lunch over the last six months or so and it has never failed to satisfy. A Japanese themed corner eaterie, we always go for the Cha Shu Ramen Soup with a side of Gyoza and a mug of Green Tea. Solid and filling and with great taste, it makes for a hearty fulfilling way to pit stop on carbs, soup and pork. Finest kind. No service charge so don't forget to tip.

PS our reason for coming to Taman Bukit Desa is the fruit stall just up the road from the restaurant. Consistently good quality produce (though you pay a bit extra for it) it is worth hunting down if you are a serious fruitie. Cherries from Washington and doughnut peaches from Spain along with Persimmons and Korean pears are among our choices when they come into season. Operator Steven has very good suppliers and does good trade with his regulars. His trademark phrase is "very sweet" and pretty much most of the time he is correct.

Lao Jiu Lou

25 Jalan Bukit Desa 5

Taman Bukit Desa

58100 Kuala Lumpur

Tel 03 7972 9464

Chateau Musar wines at Denise@TTDI - okay...

Chateau Musar Wines Tasting Event at Denise Wine House@TTDI April 20th, 2016

Chateau Musar Reds

This was a joint collaboration between the IWFS and Dionysus Asia, the purpose of which was to offer IWFS members an opportunity to explore and experience wines from a rarely explored wine region. May had been approached by the wine distributor and a deal worked out whereby they would supply the wines for tasting but IWFS would pay for their food. At RM65 it was a steal and the twenty spots got quickly snapped up by the members.

Chateau Musar grapes come from the Bekaa Valley in Lebanon. Jancis Robinson's Wine Course notes this valley is located "on an inland plateau as high as England's highest highest mountains" which allows the winery to produce "some very exciting bordeaux-like red wines…inspired by a visit to the Bartons of St-Julien." 

Kit, Ania and I left a bit early in anticipation of heavy traffic getting into TTDI. It did get a bit slow past the Jalan Damansara toll but eased out after the first TTDI traffic lights. Actually took about 30 minutes. 

IWFS KL Members thoughtfully chugg... er, sipping on the Musar white wine

The Denise Wine House was well appointed in a shophouse on one of the main drags in TTDI. On approach it looked like a parking nightmare, though this would dissipate on turning the bend and straight into a perfect spot for later exit. Inside, there were rails and shelves of bottles that were quite esoteric in origin and a shade stiff in price, though presumably that is the premium for their esoteric nature - the unusual always demands a margin. Walkign through to the back led to a small dark candlelit room in which barrels and tables were located and chairs on which to sit, drink and eat. Mostly polished wood, it was cosy and cool. There was a small wine cellar in airconditioned glass to the side and a TV with a laptop against the wall for presentations. Most pleasant, especially when the lights got turned on and we could all see each other.

Originallly it was planned that Sales Director, South East Asia and West Pacific Sales Director Mr. Ralph Hochar would be on hand to talk about the wines. As it panned out, he would prove unable to attend due to a family emergency. We hoped that all would be well soon and passed our best via Dionysys' Desmond.

The halal charcuterie - was very tasty!

Some of the dishes contained pork and non-pork food options were made available to members unable to partake. Those of us on such tables made a temporary reseat onto one where the cured meat was available. It was quite good - Spanish and Italian salami I have seen in the Supermarkets. Went well with the light red 2009 Hochar. 

The food was allegedly with a Lebanese twist, which seemingly proved to be Pine Nuts in various concoctions on each. There was enough of it, but outside of the wonderful Balsamic Salad dressing and Iberico Pork Chop the food was pretty forgettable. Especially the pasta which ended up as a lump of cold noodle mess on the plate. Vanessa collected everyone's to feed the street dogs around where she lives. Hope they enjoy it more than I did. 

But the food did provide a useful foil against which to taste the wines, and certainly did allow different characters to show through. All were pleasant and eminently drinkable, though a shade on the thin side for personal preference. I do like a bit of crisp in my white and heft in my reds and not enough seemed on display in these Lebanese offerings. Nice, but not that nice. 

Two of the reds - which to choose?

 On the night, people seemed to prefer the 2000 Red. We also got a 1999 Red to contrast and which was claimed by the Wine man to be one to cellar for another 30 years. Well, and maybe - for me, it felt like it was peaking though I am no expert as to whether this style of wine can be laid down for the next generations. I have had some Spanish and Portuguese aged wines and found I was not really able to appreciate them. Though in fairness, the 1999 had some similar textural qualities so maybe the Wine Man had a point. Teh Governor said he would not be buying - his policy is now Buy To Drink. Though he continues to confess a weakness for bidding on Christie's Wine Lists. 

Pitt Lee, May and Kalsom

The evening wound down with offers by The Wine Man of 15% discount on purchases. some people bought, though as said I didn't think it was "that" nice enough. David decided it was time to open a bottle of South African fizz for all of us to try and by the time we had scarfed that and swept up the reds we were all feeling quite nicely oiled. I called time and got us all home safely, notwithstanding a long detour necessitated by unexpected road works on the Jalan Damansara. One day these road works will end. Yeah, right…

Prakash and YC

Was a good noisy evening of food and drink and well worth the drive there and back. The Denise is a pleasant place to suck on a bottle and chew some salami with friends, though perhaps a shade more functional than the somewhat easier atmosphere and chairs that can be found at Ceggo Boardroom in Taman Danau Desa. Bebe's food there has the edge as well with her Rosemary and Truffle oil Pork Shoulder. But the wine girls at Denise were very pleasant and generous - worth seeking out if you're in the mood for a snacky rather than a full on main course style dinner. 

Denise Wine House @TTDI, 

60 Jalan Burhanuddin Helmi, 

60000 Kuala Lumpur

Tel 03 7727 7033

THE FOOD

Lebanese Salad with CHATEAU MUSAR JEUNE WHITE 2013

Gazpacho with CHATEAU MUSAR JEUNE ROSE 2013

Charcuterie with CHATEAU MUSAR HOCHAR PERE ET FILS 2009 and CHATEAU MUSAR RED 2007

Pasta with Lebanese Twist with CHATEAU MUSAR RED 2000

Iberico Pork Chop with CHATEAU MUSAR RED 1999

THE WINES

CHÂTEAU MUSAR JEUNE WHITE 2013

Varietal: Viognier 35%, Vermentino 35% ,Chardonnay 30% 

Appearance: Pale lemon in colour. 

Aromas: Fruity and herby aromas – of apricots, white peaches, pears, honeysuckle and elderflower. 

Flavours: Fragrant and vibrant, aromatic wine with a hint of nuttiness on the rich, yextured palate with gentle acidity and a peachy finish.

CHATEAU MUSAR JEUNE ROSE 2013

Varietal : Cinsault 100% 

Appearance: A light salmon, pink colour. 

Aromas: Peaches, pears and white stone fruits with a hint of mandarins and rosewater on the finish. 

Flavours: Fruits of quince, apples and Seville orange marmalade, nice balanced with soft well integrated tannins and good acidity with a cranberry juiciness on the finish.

CHATEAU MUSAR HOCHAR PERE ET FILS 2009

Varietal: Cinsault 50%, Cabernet Sauvignon 15%, Carignan 15%, Grenache 20% 

Appearance: Deep dark ruby colour. 

Aromas: Rich dark berries – black fruits, plums and dark chocolate. 

Flavours: Intense and vibrant, enriched with ripe forest fruits, plums, black cherries, prunes with layers of dark chocolate following through. Beautiful balanced, complex with a good tannin structure.

CHÂTEAU MUSAR RED 2007

Varietal :Cabernet Sauvignon, Cinsault and Carignan 

2007 was a good year for the Cinsault which displayed red berry and concentrated cherry fruits, reminiscent of Amarone. As the Cabernet Sauvignon rested in vats, it showed intense coffee bean aromas and ripe fruit, typical pf a warmer vintage.

CHÂTEAU MUSAR RED 2000

Varietal :Cabernet Sauvignon, Cinsault and Carignan 

Appearance: Deep dark red. 

Aromas: Complex, intriguing mixture of figs, prunes, leather, dark tea, tobacco, black olives with spices and a certain earthiness. 

Flavours: Ripe black cherries, figs, damsons – even chocolate and olives. Good acidity with nice smooth tannins resulting in a wine which is full-bodied, rich and velvety, with very long length.

Ornellaia Wines at Graze KL Hilton - outstanding!

April 14th 2016

You know those nights when all the stars seem to align and you look back and think - wow….  That was the feeling we had after a brilliant wine dinner at the Graze in the KL Hilton with Ornellaia wines being supplied by Milawa. And with vintage Pol Roger Rose Champagne. And all at just over RM300. Wow - Stellar evening.

I didn't take any notes or decent photos for this one. Our guests had intimated that they got a bit annoyed with flashing photos and stuff at the table so I decided to just sit back and enjoy this one. But it was damn good, and I couldn't just let it pass without some sort of record. 

Got wind of this dinner through an unsolicited and somewhat surprising email from the KL Hilton. They don't seem to have emailed me for years and suddenly one pops up. I suspect my recent attendance at the IWFS dinner downstairs at the Chambers might have had something to do with it. Someone new at the marketing desk revises the mailing lists and add what they see as new candidates.

And what a pop up this was - Ornellaia wines with food at the Graze. And a 15% discount if we booked early. Which we did. A quick forward to foodie friends attracted two more so we were four. 

We decided to Uber this one since the parking rates at the Hilton/Meridien seem variable and I no longer have confidence in how much the sucker is going to charge. Chambers was RM8 flat whereas a session at Le Meridien shocked with RM35 for the parking. Rather pay such money for drivers and cars and get happily zonked and not have to worry about the drive home. 

Mirrors on the ceiling - welcome to the Hotel KL Hilton Graze!

So we arrived spot on at 7pm and our friends were there at exactly the same time. Up the escalator and into the Graze (which we were later reminded used to be Senses) and greeted with a flute of chilled Pol Roger Rose. How civilised! We automatically hung around the door for a little while taking in the ambience and chugging half of the fizz and proffering our glasses for a refill to which the charming man kindly obliged. Things were looking good. We then got shown to our seats and made friends with our seating companions. There was Anis and Joe and Ros and partner (never did get her name - too far down the table) and Flemming, apparently of Danish descent but with some Spain and Arab in him. Total chameleon, but loves to cook and pair wines at home. Sounded a natural for the IWFS - I asked him to email me for detail and will get him in. Friend Gordon was brilliant in marketing us as foodies who bring other foodies together. Must say he has great warmth and a gift in bringing people in. 

Drink Rose Champagne on ice...

Must also say the floor staff were most generous with the fizz - we all must have got at least four refills that I remember. And it was delightful - strawberries, crisp bubbles and finish, real sleek and full body in the mouth, nice chew and fresh nose of light fruit. Could easily suck this one all night, it was a belter of a fizz. Though probably time for it to be drunk. The menu says it was 2006 though I thought I saw 2002 on the bottle. So it goes.

The table setting was pleasant, crisp thick white tablecloths with good glassware and a mat for the wine glasses with each place labelled for the wine that was designated to go in there. This makes life far easier in determining which wine is which for comparative purposes. And top ups. 

Ornellaia winery lies near a town called Bolgheri on the West coast of Italy about 50 km south of the port of Livorno. Along with Sassicaia, Solaia and Tignanello, Ornellaia is one of the four original Italian "Super Tuscans" bred to compete alongside the superstars of Bordeaux for global share and attention. The wines are made from pretty much the same grapes as grown in Bordeaux, but with slight differences resulting from grape additions and the Italian sun, sea breeze, and terroir. I almost visited Ornellaia on a recent Mediterranean cruise which made a stop at Livorno but instead opted to go to Florence for lunch and shopping. I also wanted to make a day of it by doing Sassicaia in the morning and Ornellaia in the afternoon cos research suggested there was nothing to do in either Livorno or Bolgheri. So it goes. Maybe next time.

Chef Marc and the demon eyed Patrick...

Ornellaia Far East rep Patrick Lachapele and Chef Marc Fery stepped up to respectively said a few introductory words and we were off.

Now writing this six days after the event, the food is fading into the distance, but the wines remain in the head. They were stellar. We have been fans of Ornellaia's Le Volte ever since we first had a bottle by accident at a now forgotten restaurant some good few years back and when we then found the Vintry selling it for RM70ish at the time we whacked for a case and pretty much repeated this exercise annually. Great easy wine but with good fruit and body and character - fairly full in the mouth but not overpoweringly so. We have drunk its vintages over the years with pleasure. It does gain a little with some age, especially if the year was hot and the tannins a bit pronounced, but it is not really for the long term. We were drinking the 2013 on the night, and indeed it was lovely. Will have to sock away a couple for our Italian foodie sessions. 

The 2012 Serre Nuove came off like classic Bordeaux in taste and texture terms - more left bank than right (think Pichon and Leoville) with lovely medium coffee and tobacco notes. It had enough complexity to satisfy but not so much to get in the way of the food. I first had a Serre Nuove when I picked up a bottle on a tour of Amalfi coast to bring home because I hadn't seen it back in KL (note - the week of my return saw me finding it at the BIG…). We had it with an Amante dinner and it didn't really inspire at the time. But tonight I got a better sense of it and what Ornellaia seems to be trying to do. Classic Bordeaux style and blend but with a slight whack of… Italian, both on the nose and in the wine. Classic Left Bank Bordeaux can be a bit stuffy and formal and… well, classic because that is what it is. Ornellaia adds a cute hint of Mediterranean freshness that gives it a pleasant lift without taking anything away from the classicity. It's a bit like pouring a decent Bordeaux through one of those wine aerator things - gives a nice spritz and tickle but keeps the wine untouched and unadulterated. Very interesting wine, this.

"We are all just prisoners here of our own device" "Eh?" "It's the Eagles, innit? Hotel California?" "Oh yeah..."

Though it got totally lost on everyone who clearly preferred the lighter and fruitier Le Volte. And it was on way dodgy ground having been set up against its big brother to come. So it goes. I had fun. And the servings by the floor staff were far from stingy. I must have had at least four top ups, and I did not appear to be alone in this. They were going up and down the tables dealing out the booze in spades. Which I note is often a sign that they are looking to get everyone well juiced so that the last wine can stretch a bit further. Fair enough - they keep pouring, I keep drinking. This have I have been taught by the Sweeper. 

The Ornellaia 2012 was absolutely stunning - full on dark fruit gobsmack in the mouth, massive nose of deep chocolate and berries, smooth and chewy tannins and a finish that was delightfully endless. What a wonderful wine. And again, they kept topping us all up, as if the final extinction had come to earth and we were clearing the cellar on our last day alive. Brilliant wine service - O if they could all be like this….

Foodwise, the first course Salmon Rillettes were lightly pleasant, sufficiently savoury and mouth meltingly good. The French croutons gave nice crunch and carbo but it was the Yuzu Caviar in extra virgin olive oil that was genius - citrus, salt and the lightest of oils with that soft crush of the caviar bubble was bliss. The fact that they were still pouring the champagne to go with it was double bliss. Absolute perfecto match. 

In the master's chamber, they gather for their feast - the Salmon Rillettes

The Dutch Veal consomme broth was very good - light and liquid with kind of meaty Oxo cube whack in the mouth but smoothly so whilst the tiny cut veggie bits gave enough texture for body. I remember the praline as being a bit like a crusty meat chocolate kind of thing - something you might find in a box of Milk Tray for Meateaters but without the chocolate. Quite cute. The Serre Nuove got a bit diluted with the soup, so I ended up slurping one and guzzling the other. 

The quail came and went - little memory other than it all got finished. Seem to remember a good taste between the potato, jus and the bird, whilst the spinach was brilliant. No real memory of the match with the Serre Nuove, but I definitely enjoyed both!

They stab it with their steely knives - the wonderful lamb

There was a lot going on with the lamb - bean stew, kale cabbage, polenta and mushrooms with onion and thyme jus. It all went together in a rich bistro kind of way.  The lamb was excellent, though not many seemed to finish it all. Mine was - chewed off the rib Viking style. I asked for the remains on the plates to be collected and bagged for the dog, but somehow didn't end up with any of it. I guess some bigger dog got in the way. Given the bistro style food, the Serre Nuove with its classical Bordeaux feel went very nicely. Tannins cut the meat and fat cut the tannins to reveal pleasant fruit and some depth in the wine. But the Ornellaia just blew everything away - the lamb got elevated by the massive fruit and chocolate and the wine evened out to show lovely depth and beautiful silky sleek texture. Yum. 

Dessert was actually very tasty, with the booze infused berries inflicting an alcoholic belt on the rich Valrhona chocolate to which the frozen yoghurt lent a delightful ice creamy skim. Would have been excellent with coffee, which got ordered but did not arrive. 

Last thing I remember - Valrhona chocolate - yum

The wine ultimately stopped pouring which we took as a sign that the night was over. After a bit of nonsense concerning the bill (we were supposed to get a discount which took another 5 minutes to rectify), we left fairly quickly and got a cab home.

All in all, it proved to be a great evening of food, wine and friends. Great conversations around the table, generous pourings and well tasty food. And notwithstanding the pouring generosity, it was also one of those where I didn't feel boozed - usually a sign that the wine was really good. But I did need some biscuits for supper on getting home - it all hit as we got through the door and the soak-up-the-booze munchies set in quite significantly. 

A few grimps and gripes here - didn't get my coffee, didn't get my take-home lamb bones for the dogs, also didn't initially get the 15% earlybird discount on the bill - any more boozy and I would have paid without thinking. Seem to be oversights rather than policy, but oversights suggest that staff are either stressed or uncaring. I think probably the former. 

I remember having conversation with the Hilton Restaurant Manager and feeling stabbed in the heart when she told me about their RM170 corkage charge per bottle. I think I started ranting and saying that that was crazy and how could I come back when Soleil gives an IWFS boy like me free corkage and magnificent service whenever I go there. Got the answer that that was hotel policy. Of course it is. Same as the car park pricing. Which is why with any luck I won't have to go back there on any regular basis. Getting there and home is now an expensive pain which I prefer to marginalise. I'll go back to Soleil or Cilantro or Sage without a second thought but the Hilton and Meridien give me much pause. Which is a shame - the food and service warrant return visits. Only on someone else's ticket, I'm afraid. 

But the staff were generally very pleasant and friendly and hugely professional and the KL Hilton is lucky to have them. Seems to be able to keep them too, which also says much. One of the floor staff shared a story about a visiting Michelin 2 star chef who got all the floor staff in the kitchen after the meal and had everyone drink champagne. I asked whether the home Hilton chefs ever did this and got a shy "no". Which on the face of it comes across as a bit mean when doing so would do wonders for a sense of team. My guess is that such imbibing gets seen as a budget issue by management whereby wines brought in by a supplier must ultimately be accounted for and why incur any extra expense by letting staff guzzle any of it. Someone would have to answer for it. Fair enough - though for me giving wine waiters a sip or two is educational and should ultimately be able to be expensed as Staff Training. There you go. Staff everywhere keep their mouths shut and enjoy the joys as and when they come. They know that their managers will come and go. Been there…  Cheers!!

ORNELLAIA WINE DINNER

Pre-drinks

Champagne Pol Roger Brut Rose 2006

Appetizer

Scottish Loch Fyne Salmon rillettes,

sun-dried Cherry Tomatoes, French

baguette croutons, baby Mesclun

leaves, Yuzu Caviar and extra

virgin Olive Oil

First Course

Sherry and Madeira infused double

clarified Dutch Veal consomme,

crispy pulled Beef Praline, 

vegetable Paysanne, Chive

Le Volte dell'Ornellaia 2013

Second Course

Grilled French Quail, Foie Gras

stuffed, sweet Potato mash, baby

Spinach, Truffle jus

Le Serre Nuove dell'Ornellaia 2012

Cranberry Granite

Main Course

Herb Crusted Australian Dorper 

Lamb rack, three coloured bean stew,

saute Kale Cabbage, Polenta cake 

and Porcini Mushrooms, cipollini

Onion and Thyme jus

Ornellaia 2012

Dessert

French Valrhona Chocolate tart, 

Passion Fruit mousse, clotted

Cream, candied Macadamia nuts,

Cointreau marinated Raspberries,

forest Berry Coulis and crispy

Yoghurt

Premium tea selection of coffee