Mission

Mission: To respond thoughtfully and responsibly to my experiences of drinking and dining at restaurants with regard to the quality, service, preparation, presentation and overall experience received thereat. The standpoint is one who respects the crafts of the chef and sommelier and who seeks to understand their choices in the kitchen and cellar and grow in knowledge. In this, I will seek to be fair, reasoned, direct and constructive and aim to keep my ego in check on our mutual journeys through the worlds of food and wine.
Showing posts with label Nadodi. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Nadodi. Show all posts

Tuesday, November 21, 2017

Food Adventures January to July 2017 - April 2017

Prior to the two month sojourn around Wales, France and Sicily across August through to mid October, I had been a bit taken up with a project that took me away from the food and wine writing (and the songwriting and recording) but I then got a bit of a breather to try and reflect over where the Lengui and I had eaten over the previous couple of months (well, seven actually). So I figured rather than try to document them individually, better to just load them all into a single narrative and see how it looked. So this is a full-ish listing of where, when, and with whom we ate and drank over this period. Some are barely one liners, others have a bit more detail. Whatever, it made for a more than usually long read so it got broken down into months for ease of, er, digestion. Not sure if it will prove useful, but when taken in total it does represent quite a litany of gluttony. Phoooooooo....

April 1st Private Dinner at One World Hotel
This was a private room for about ten tables and pretty good vegetarian dishes. We were told by our host that it was to be followed with a talk by a Buddhist teacher so out of respect we didn't bring any wine. As it turned out we were sat on a table of serial boozers who equally didn't bring booze. I offered to go downstairs and grab a couple of whites and reds from the supermarket but was told no need. Next time I will listen to my better instincts. We drank (admittedly very good) Chinese tea all night and listened to about an hour of the Teaching before making excuses about it being way past bedtime. Which was true, but in reality we wanted to get away - these sessions can go on into the serious small hours and the devoted hang on to every word uttered by the guru while we less devoted choke back yawns out of politeness to the host. Whatever gets you through the night…

Sidethought - in gatherings of people of Chinese descent, I have observed that no one ever seems to want to make the first move to get up and go. I seem to recall reading once that the longer the evening goes on, the greater mark it is of the table enjoying itself which gives great "face" to the host or hostess. In contrast, leaving early is the reverse. It is also the case that when one gets up to go, then this can get interpreted as a signal for everyone else to also leave. So the result is that no one wants to be seen as the bad guy to get up and signal that the party is over when it might well be the fact that this is exactly what everyone wants to do! But trying to stay awake during a talk after an evening of sobriety - no. I'll listen to the podcast. We had some passengers to transport home so I got up at 11.45pm on the excuse of needing to get them to bed. Everyone said goodbye to us and then in total contrast to all of the above all sat back down to continue listening. I didn't get a podcast. 

April 3rd Banfi Wine Dinner at Stoked
Written up separately. The wine rep remembered me from a dinner he hosted when there was an Italian restaurant in Le Meridien. Wines were not spectacular then - same with now, though there was one that shone reasonably well. See separate post here>>>

April 4th Sapore with Amanti
This was our intro to Sapore and a belter it would prove to be. Lots of wine, fantastic food from Chef and a raucous night had by all. Magnificent Roast Pig, superb Rigatoni, and the Lardo on fresh baked olive bread was spectacular. The first of many visits. See separate post here>>>

April 5th Nadodi
This was a food tasting with the IWFS KL Committee to ascertain whether the place and the food were of sufficient standard to hold an event there. We bring our own wines and blag free corkage on the promise of bringing about 40 pax there. Committee was indeed sufficiently impressed to want to have an event. For some reason, it can't quite seem to get sorted...  See separate post here>>>

April 12th Sapore with Ho Chiak gang
For some reason, there was an invite to El Manica by the Porsche Club Malaysia and Lenglui and I got pressganged into joining the party. Not that it was a hardship. Well, not at first - seemed like the PCM had pretty much ordered the chef to empty the pantry given the amounts of food coming out. Way, way too much. But it was all darn good. Especially the T-Bone - oh, so good the meat. Give the Flint up the road a run for the money. Usual wines, lots of Italian - I finished off my stock of Ciu Ciu bought two years back from a friend of the Hustler (well, I thought I did - recent search on the shelves unearthed two more - can't seem to get shot of it...). Drinking well. Sucked down a few St Clairs and a magnificent bigass heavy thick bottled Chilean Cabernet whose name escapes at the moment. I have found that the bigger the bottle then the better the wine to be a general truism when it comes to both North and South American wines. This one was belter with the steak. 

April 14th Nam Lee Cheong
Not really a food report, just to include the NLC wine store on Jalan Bukit Bintang for old times sake. Used to be a regular at the monthly tastings, but I have sworn off them for a number of years now. I get very drunk, sing a few songs, buy wines which taste great at the time but not so later, and inflate my blood sugar and pressure as a total result. I prefer wine with food rather than getting chugged in such "tastings". And truth be told I don't really enjoy getting blitzed and shitfaced on wine; the hangovers are mental and the following day is wasted. At least with food you have something to soak up the booze. This one was a Montes tasting and some lovely wines were on show. Ended up buying a 2012 Montes M, their flagship Cabernet, on quite generous discount which I have drunk with pleasure on previous occasions. Chugged it recently with a home grilled US Ribeye, power and silk with a hint of green pepper and a wonderfully rich fulfilling finish. Very nice indeed. 

Nam Lee Cheong owner Tony Leong with Wine Girls
April 20th Soleil with IWFS
I have gotten into the habit of not taking notes at wine dinners of late. Partly is because for many places I have written on the food before and the wines and tastes all seem to roll into one set of standard adjectives and descriptors. The result feels that repetition seems to be creeping in. Also it does get in the way of enjoying the company and the booze due to frequent visits to the notepad. I originally thought this was one of them since I couldn't find a note anywhere. Then they showed up. Will look to write up soonest.

Short version is that Chef was well on form and the paired wines from magnum were well good. I have memories of remaining sat with Mossie and The Jag and scouring the bottles for the vinous remains of the day. Vaguely remember getting lucky. No prisoners taken. 

Menu
Small Appetiser - Snapper Carpaccio, Calamansi Sorbet
Tribaut Brut NV, Champagne
Entree
Irish Oyster and Duck Liver Snow - Brined Tomato Jelly, Avocado Foam, Cucumber Broth
Grand Bateau Blanc 2015, Bordeaux
Hors D'Oeuvre
Seafood Risotto - Grilled Fremantle Octopus, turkey Chorizo, Piquillo Pepper
Fibbiano Casalini Chianti Superiore 2013 Tuscany
Mains
Grilled Northsea Cod, Soft Sheel Crab Crumble, Miso Bearnaise, Green Pea Coulis
Veal Tenderloin, Roasted Sunchoke Puree, Baby Vegetables, Bali Long Pepper Sauce
La Fleur Du Bouard 2011 St Emilion
Fleur Cardinale 2011 St Emilion
Dessert
Poached Peach, Vanilla Panna Cotta, Belini Sorbet, Raspberry- Tomato Coulis
Chateau D'Anna 2010 Sauteurnes

April 23rd G8 Lunch
This is one of Doc Wine's foodie groups that has been going for a number of years, all having met at a Wine and Spirit training course. The Doc's squeeze was cooking Nyonya and he roped me and Lenglui in to join the fun. Each G8 member brings a covered bottle and the assembled seek to ascertain on a blind tasting what it is. Some lovelies get brought by the members. I brought my remaining Weinbach Capuchin Pinot Gris brought back from the Alsace trip which was well received - lean, sweet and crisp with a chewy honey apple that has yet to finish - can still taste it now. Amazingly tasty food, full of spice fire and texture, and which showcased the thoughtfully selected wines to some excellent degrees. Spice and serious light to mid textured wines make for some wonderfully perfect matches. Brilliant, brilliant lunch and all the more so for being wonderfully convivial and vinously serious but not overly so. 
Salut!!
Egg and Prawn Salad with spicy Thousand Island style sauce 
Kangkung leaf - crisp and chewy
Brilliant Pineapple Salad with cucumber, nuts and spice
Wicked Chicken
Roll of Honour
April 27th Dewakan with Leeuwin Estate wines
Organised by Michelle from AsiaEuro wines to showcase the new vintage of this winery of legend. We got a heads up at a previous dinner and on arrival found ourselves on a table with IWFS chums. 

Located in Margaret River in WA, the Leeuwin Estate wines are praised high to the heavens by the Wine world and probably rightly so. The pretty and well laid out marketing card we got on the table listed all the big names and all the nice things they said. The Chardonnay has ranked in the high 90s by WS, Halliday and Vintage since the 2007 vintage. Indeed, I now recall a magnificent Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chard I had with Lenglui at a specially paired Gourmet Wine Dinner on board the Crystal Serenity. Can't remember the vintage, but the Cruise was May 2015 and moored off Monaco. The dinner was a bit ordinary but this was a standout wine. The winery is also to be lauded for commissioning art works to grace the annual labels (like Mouton Rothschild). Absolutely in full agreement. Which is why I was a bit miffed that this evening didn't quite cut it for me. Probably it was that the wines were all new vintages and all in clear need of bottle time before being paired with food. The early whites were racy, inside cheek rippers and not quite in balance on this palate. I found the first Sem/SB blend a bit on the sweetly light side and pretty non descript, though our table seemed to guzzle quite a lot of it. The Riesling felt it had some potential, and drew the accolades from the Kiwi, but the higher acidity seemed to need time to even out. The Chardonnay….  I didn't get it. Perhaps in need of a different location and a different dish.  And notwithstanding some lovely offers on the lovelies for the night, on this showing they were a bit of a long shot punt for me for adding to the wine cellar - I prefer a bit of lightness on the palate than these bold chest whackers seemed to be presenting. The Dewakan food was its usual stellar standard, though the wines looked like they had been shoehorned into the menu and didn't really pair well. I would have omitted the Cabernet and doubled the Chard with the Duck and put the Shiraz for the Quail. I might also have brought some earlier vintages to compare and contrast. But that's me. There you go.

Menu
aperitif
2016 Siblings Semillon/Saugignon Blanc
Prawn Umai and Green Sambal
Art Series Riesling
Puding Jagung
Art Series Sauvignon Blanc
Slow Cooked Red Snapper
Art Series Chardonnay
Roast Duck Breast with "Blood " Sauce
Art Series Shiraz
Roast Quail with Century Egg Puree
Art Series Cabernet Sauvignon
Gula Melaka Marquise and Pulut Ice Cream


Popsicles

Thursday, April 6, 2017

Three Nights, Three Wine Dinners - Stoked, Sapore and Nadodi

April 6th 2017

Wow…  three wine dinners on the bounce this week. Photos are a bit grim, having been taken with the Samsung. Getting a bit lazy to take the old Sony, and the big flash does annoy the table guests. But I think we still can see the dishes quite well - welcome to another slice of my food scribbles!

French Duck Breast - un peu froid
First off was a Banfi Wine Dinner at Stoked on Monday April 3rd. Second was the Amanti della Cucina Italiano at Sapore on Tuesday the 4th. And third was an IWFS food tasting at Nadodi on the Wednesday April 5th. It is now Thursday the 6th and I am pretty muzzy and fuzzed - that little tweaking behind the eyes that tells you "tonight you must take a night off the sauce". But then you remember you have a couple of half opened bottles in the fridge and you think "how to not finish them off?" We'll see - some of the wines don't do too well after a chilling in the fridge and grudgingly get poured down the sink - some not salvageable even by the little aerator thingy or blending with other half bottles in the fridge. Damn sad.

Iberico Presa - beaucoup froid!!
I digress. Castello Banfi at Stoked started well with a delightfully light and fruity fizz going with some raw fish and woody truffle canapes. The white was equally pleasant in a chugging cheery kind of way with just enough of a hint of character to pique the interest - quite unusual for Pinot Grigio in my experience. It also paired well with the sweet and tasty Prawns and Burrata Cheese - lovely combo this, and well zinged up by the sweet boozy vinaigrette. Two reds came out with the duck and the Bolgheri Rosso was lovely - medium lush and chewy fruit and tannin in a lovely even balance that had us buying another bottle for an end of the evening nightcap. Friendly prices too, though not for the long term - two years, maybe three, but lovely drinking now. The Chianti was a bit standard Banfi - lean and taut - whilst the Brunello was firm and full but frankly forgettable. Also got recognised by Banfi Regional Manager Guillaume Blanchard who was on hand to host and guide us all through the wines. Lenglui and I had attended a Banfi dinner some years back at Le Meridien when it used to have an Italian restaurant there. Better wines tonight than then. Far better. That previous one had frankly put me off Banfi wines - found them thin, fierce, and tight. Tonight it got redeemed. 

May and The Money
The Money and the Banker
Foodwise, the evening got a bit marred by two dishes coming out cold and needing to get sent back and, in the case of the main pork, needing to get replaced with beef as no more pork available. Not sure what went wrong, but all were full of apologies and an extra glass of the good stuff got poured to help recompense. Hmmm…   not sure what it is with Stoked - it has evenings that are total Brahma, and then it trips up with something like this. I think there were some new staff drafted who were perhaps not as fully trained as might have been hoped for. Chef Yau's fish dishes are pretty much always on point - the raw fish canapes and prawns were excellent - but somehow the meat dishes don't always seem to hit the mark for me. Sorry, but I never feel as stunned as I feel I should be. But then Chef Evert's meat at Soleil was similar, but eventually he started putting out some wonderful meat. I live in hope. 

Lenglui and new friends
Stoked
120 Jalan Kasah, 
Medan Damansara, 
50490 Kuala Lumpur

Menu
Trio of Canapés
Banfi Tener Brut NV

Tai Fish
Sweet Prawn, Burrata Cheese, Champagne & Honey Vinaigrette
Banfi San Angelo Toscana IGT 2014

French Duck Breast
Plum, Fennel, Blueberry Caramel Sauce
Banfi Chianti Classico DOCG Riserva 2013 
Banfi Aska Bolgheri DOC Rosso 2013

100% Acorn-Fed Iberico Presa
Portobello Mushroom, Pecorino Cheese, Edible Flowers
Banfi Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2011

Coconut Sorbet
Coconut Water, Baked Banana, Coconut Chips

Coffee or Tea

Petits Fours

Sapore is a new kid on the block and the latest venture of Chef Federico. Cutting his teeth at Pietro and getting some chops at Marini's on 57, he is now going back to his roots and serving up some damn fine home style Italian cooking. From start to finish, the food was outstanding. We started with ham, mortadella, salami and the most amazing lardo that was total tongue zapping gangbusters with some salty oven baked bread. Next was a Wild Boar ragout with large tubes of Rigatoni pasta (some said a shade overboiled, but I found mine pretty much perfect) which was all taste and firm whack in the craw. The Suckling Pig was magnificent - tender, cooked, smelling and tasting of thyme and rosemary - fantastic. Roast potatoes could have been crisper (a shade mushy on the bite) but the pig…   I later noticed it was not on the menu so perhaps it is special order. Tiramisu dessert was damn near perfect - light, coffee, cream and cold. Belter.

We brought our own wines - a Vivo Prosecco and a 2013 Fontodi Chianti. Prosecco was pleasant, and kept quite cool in the IWFS Bag. The Chianti was a bit mean - thinnish fruit and prominent tannin. Austere would be a good word here. But the leftovers got blended with a roughish jammy leftover bordeaux at home to produce a half drinkable nightcap.

Sapore is well worth a return visit though be advised that unless you are desperately lucky, the parking in the area sucks. I ended up halfway down a dark road outside someone's large and well electrified house. Chef also does a 1.2kg Steak, so that sounds like a date with the Baron at some near future time.

Nadodi Maitre D' and friend
Sapore
18 Persiaran Ampang, 
Desa Pahlawan, Ampang 
55000 KL
Tel +603 42666362
email: sapore18my@gmail.com

MENU 
Antipasti tagliere
Mix of the best of Italian cold cut from parma , capocollo , salami , Lardo di collonata , mortadella , served with pickled vegetable

Pasta
Rigatoni pasta with Tuscany style  and pecorino romano

Main
Suckling pig porchetta style served with roasted potato

Dessert
Home made vanilla gelato
Tiramisu 

Nadodi (which apparently is Hindi for "wanderer") is the latest place to take the premises that once housed the legendary Il Lido on Jalan Yap Kwan Seng. There have been a couple of attempts to kickstart subsequent eateries on the premises, though none seem to have taken hold. The Architect seems to think the Feng Shui there is not so good - it is muscled in on pretty much all sides by some bigass neighbours that tower above it. Whatever, some serious money has been spent on it, and it now sports a fine dining Indian Cuisine restaurant on Level One and a swanky bar on Level Two. 
Destroyed Staple - evaporated in a single bite

The menu blurb runs:
"Modernity and tradition go hand-in-hand at Nadodi. Our artisanal creations make creative use of exclusively sourced ingredients and specialty farmed produce to earn a place at our table, and on your plate. We harness completely contemporary techniques and retrofit an age old traditional recipe with modernity. This can result in surprising discoveries and an absolutely fresh perspective on familiar cuisine tropes that must be experienced."

Lactose Free - Fish Flakes and Sambol - two bites
So it was not Indian Fusion cuisine as someone along the line had told us. Some foodie friends had been under the impression that Nadodi was Indian Fusion cuisine - it is not; there is no other cuisine with which the recipes were fused. But one does need a bit of a sense of adventure to come here. And also to mentally get away from the mindset that sees Indian cuisine as the preserve of the roadside. But the rewards are very pleasant. It is indeed fine dining Indian cuisine with some lovely touches and delightful tastes.  The evening had been organised by the Doc with a view to hosting a future IWFS event there. And on this showing, it looks like it should happen soon. 

Out Of The Shell - Scallop and Foam
Alleppey Lobster and Coconut Crumble
We spent a short time at the upstairs bar with our glasses of bubbles, and gawping at the single Twin Tower we could see peeking behind one of the neighbours. This bar is beyond swanky - red and black and high end sofas with some open air space to listen to the low hum of the Jalan Ampang traffic. Tiger prints seem to abound, and there seems some association with a London club of the same name. It felt a bit overwhelming and macho, and I didn't feel quite comfortable (never quite seem to in these muscle bars) and was glad when we got called to dinner. Though the staff there were most friendly and accommodative. Paid RM53 for Lenglui's VAT (Vodka and Tonic - anyone remember Minder?).

We got sat in a private room that will take about 16 at a stretch and Maitre D' started us off with a nice bit of theatre whereby what looked like a large empty wall frame became a window into the kitchen. We were to have what was billed as the Six Mile Run - a six dish degustation of revisited Indian cuisine. The first two courses did not look promising in terms of diners feeling full at the end of it all - both were half bite size morsels of wonderful tastes and blends but frighteningly tiny. More than half the table thought we would be heading for Char Kwey Teow supper, which thinking was reinforced by dishes three and four - barely two bites apiece. But it all came together with dish five - basically Chicken Biryani with solid rice and amazing sauces. And second helpings of rice and sauce if needed. This brought it all together and laid the replete stomach foundation for dish six dessert which came across like creamy cold and crunchy cendol. 

Dravidian Nation - Chicken Biriyani and sauces - yum!
The quality of the food, its presentations and descriptions, the service of both food and wine were top class. Well worth a visit to impress friends and educate those who feel one should not pay top dollar for food you can get on the streets for a fraction of the cost. We paid RM200 for the six and I would definitely go back for a similar experience. Winewise, we had various Champagnes, a delightful SB from a new NZ vineyard discovered by The Money. The Architect brought a bottle of Pingus, there was a CdR to finish and I think a Bordeaux somewhere in the mix. And May brought a Rose, which was found to be perfect with much of the food, especially the lobster. 

Mind of a Coconut - sounds like some people I know...
Slight gripe on the parking - was told valet would be RM10 (I think only valet is possible - little to no parking anywhere near the place on the outside) but only got RM30 back from a fifty. Might have been a genuine mistake, but I was in a rush and only found out on getting home. Thinking on it, perhaps this is why the place cannot ever take off - there is no easy parking, and one thing that Malaysians DO tend to expect when it comes to eating is easy and free/cheap parking; if cannot park within ten yards of the eaterie then no matter how good the food they'll cold shoulder it. Maybe Nadodi should buy the chunk of land next door and build a car park - now THAT will make money. Maybe I should talk to the Architect...

The Ceramic Football of Biriyani
Nadodi 
Lot 183 of, Jalan Mayang, Kampung Baru, 
50450 Kuala Lumpur, 
Malaysia
Open 6pm to 10pm
Tel: +603 21814334

Menu - The Six Mile Journey

Destroyed Staple

Lactose Free
Fish flakes, Sambol

Out of the Shell
Chettinad Scallops, Tamarind froth

Silence Of Our Lamb
Sous Vide Lamb, Curry Leaf Ash
OR
Alleppey Lobsters
Poached Lobster Tails, Coconut Mango Crumble

Dravidian Nation
Country-chicken Biriyani, Silver Burst

Mind Of a Coconut
Cane Sugar, Sea Coconut