L'Heritage at Royale Chulan - not so good

13th January 2015

Scouting round for a venue for an upcoming IWFS function, Food Chair David hit on L'Heritage located in the Royale Chulan hotel off Jalan Conlay. This is a massive expanse of a hotel with a huge ballroom and opulent marble and big space everywhere. I had been to a function there with our acapella group a couple of years back and enjoyed a decent buffet at the coffee shop there, though there was no indication at the time that there were other restaurants elsewhere in the complex. Notwithstanding, L'Heritage appeared to be of good standing. Seems it was featured in the recent MIGF 2014 offering a decent looking and (according to the menu I received) award winning Western set meal for a fair price. David talked to them and they must have said the magic words "no corkage" so a trial dinner was fixed for Committee to sample.  

Table and ambience of L'Heritage

Parking was straightforward, though getting to the restaurant involved a stop at reception to ask how to get there. Once on the correct first floor, following signage proved a detour - had I ignored the direction signs I would have got to the place in five seconds. As it was I walked through the Malay, Chinese, and some other restaurant, all of which were empty. On reflection, seeing them all empty should have put me on alert that not all was well, but there you go - when you're on a mission to get somewhere you're not always open to these things. It was indeed, as the Kiwi remarked, like the Marie Celeste - empty and desolate and little evidence of life. Though a very pretty Marie Celeste it should be said - the room designated for our meal was most pleasant, reminiscent of a colonial deck with pristine chairs and tables. Table settings, wine service and glasses were excellent - the staff seemed to be good with people, though they did need a bit of wine guidance from David on occasion. Food service was also good - plates were cleared quickly and requests for more bread and water were met quickly and graciously. 

Oysters were a bit not good

The wines brought by the company (nine of us, though I brought an extra bottle of fizz) were superb. Three champagnes, one white, a Burgundy and three top end Bordeaux. I had brought a Connetable Talbot, the 2nd Wine from Chateau Talbot to try and pair with the beef. It was a bit second level in the vinous company so it got parked aside. It would eventually get drunk, though, as would the spare fizz. We are IWFS, these things are necessary.

Ultimately, though, it was all about the food and it was here that things fell quite flat. The Fin de Claire oysters were tiny and shrivelled and chewy and with a suspicion of age about them. The toppings were tastyish and well presented, but there was little to comment about them otherwise. Fail.

Seems the King Crab Royale and Atlantic Scampi were not available, so we got some greyish Crab on Mash potato with a rather large prawn whose homes of origin I did not manage to find out. Whilst the prawn was freshly acceptable and displaying good bite and chew, the crab and mash were a bit meh and snuzz. Individually each was not too bad, though the combo seemed to give an impression of stodgy. Seemed also to be a little over-salt on the potato. Fail.

Crab and Prawn - hmmm...

Drinks-wise, we were enjoying some lovely bubbles - starting with a delightfully light and fruity Thierry Grandin and giving way to a gracious 2004 Dom Perignon and a brawny 2002 Pol Roger Winston Churchill. I was half tempted to stand to attention and sing Rule Britannia while the Churchill got popped but the steely stern eye of the Governor from across the table quashed my eagerness. Winston was lovely and totally overpowered the Dom when supped side by side. Very masculine fizz. I'd had the Churchill at a Ribs dinner in November 2014, but tonight it was colder and the sense of frozen biscuit on the nose and yeasty bubbles in the cheeks was wonderful. Later on, though, the Dom showed a beautiful balance of bubbles and crisp crunchy verve. Lovely finesse in this one. Lady Astor's grace to the Winston Churchill wit. 

Roast Garlic Soup - tasty

Next out was the Roast Garlic soup which was the dish of the night - lovely texture and light crust which soaked up the broth a sweet and flakey treat. Could have supped this one all night, though the resulting Garlic Breath would make me vampire repellant for a year. Lenglui repellent also. Though Lenglui is not a vampire. Leastways not that I know of. Better stop this line of thinking…  the soup gets two thumbs up.

The Chapoutier Les Tanneurs Marsanne-Roussane blend was in the glass and was proving a delightful mouth of marzipan and lychee oriental fruits. Cool and mellow though with a lightness on the roof of the mouth. Tasty wine.

Which would have been belter with the Salmon if the Salmon had been a bit warmer. Poached and cold is not a good thing. And being paired with some Foie Gras was perhaps a bit adventurous and might have worked if the ingredients were totally fresh off the plane. As it was, the seeming slight age on the ingredients gave a somewhat ordinary result. The menu talked of mint, which might have zested the pairing, but I didn't get much mint in the mouth. The FG was wonderful on the bread with some butter, though. Ah, bread and butter and pate with a glass of wine and good friends around a table - the world comes into perfect focus. Bare pass for this dish.

Salmon and Foie Gras

The sorbet was decent enough, though perhaps a shade sugary in texture. 

And then came the start of greatness. A Vosne-Romanee 2004 had been brought and poured. Magnificent glass of wine. Breathing in cherry and perfumed air, roiling around the mouth like a soothing balm and coating the throat with that delicate film of delight that fires the senses into the poetic and exalted heights of the sublime. Darn, this was nice. A Brigit Bardot of a wine, starlet, full of life and body, a little voluptuous but chic and powerful. It was love at first sip. Well, maybe lust with shades of infatuation. O fantasy…

I had picked Beef and three of the Bordeaux had been poured to accompany. With the Vosne still in the glass, this was as close to vinous heaven as I have ever been. 

I quite liked the beef, though I might have liked it better if it had not been smothered in Bisto like gravy. It gave it that Heinz Oxtail soup feel, all meat stock and beefy oomph which is fine for stew but gets in the way of the steak. There was a slight herbal note which intrigued, though for me sauce should enhance rather than potentially hide. Can't remember the veg, though someone said the carrots were nice. Passable, though not in the league of Prime or Lafite.

The Black Angus with vegetables

And the three Bordeaux…  we had a 2008 Pontet-Canet, a 2003 Leoville Barton and a 1985 Domaine de Chevalier. Each showed definite Bordeaux character and quality, and varied only in finesse and silkiness in the finish, which one would expect given the softening tannins across the years. The Pontet-Canet was in good bloom, with the tannins coming into good season in the wine. The Leoville was tasty, with characteristic big fruit and mellowing tannins. The Chevalier was a charmer, all fine and glissando steely silk finish. Lovely, lovely wines all. But it was the Vosne that kept coming back and setting them all in context. Definitely a touch of greatness here. I have been darn lucky with some of the darlings I have tasted and this was a definite add to the list. Semi charmed kind of life? You have no idea…

The cheese was awful - looked and felt like supermarket offerings cut into slices and tasting of rubber. Complete fail. 

The final dessert was snuzz. Pretty ordinary ice cream and chocolate sponge of standard hotel quality. Not much to write about in glowing praise terms. Bare pass.

The Champagne and Marsanne

Both the 2009 Connetable Talbot and Vincent NV Cremant got cracked to end the night. The Talbot was most pleasant in a fruity way - Kiwi enjoyed it and said to give it three years to come into better balance. I have a couple left in the wine fridge, so three years it is. The Cremant was a most pleasant and boozy way to end the night - creamy crisp bubbles with a firm finish to cleanse the throat. Darn sight better than a sorbet. 

The Reds and my spare Cremant

So…  in sum, lovely venue, excellent service, a Brahma of a night for wine but pretty grim food. I think the problem with this place is two fold. First, there is clearly not enough business to maintain a top level foreign chef. These guys are like thoroughbred horses and footballers, they need to perform and cook and when they don't get the chance then their form and fire will start to fade and they'll be looking to new pastures. You have to let them run if you want them to stay; if you can't let them run because there's no one to run for, they'll die of boredom. I was later told that the Executive Chef was not in the kitchen for the evening and that it had been the number two in control. Hmmm….    

Second, it is a hotel restaurant and as a consequence blandness is often necessarily built into food preparation so as to not offend patrons. Couple this with the absence of the chef at a test dinner for a gourmet group and some of the food not appearing because it could not be sourced...  res ipsa loquitur. Would no way have won an award from me on this performance. 

The meal was not unfair in value terms and as said the service from the staff was excellent. At present, though, it is not a destination restaurant and it is unlikely to become one because presumably very few know it exists and one gets the feeling that no one really cares too much about raising the profile. It is a standard destination for official government functions and owned by the company that runs the Armed Forces pension fund so business revenue is fairly guaranteed. Give it a decent chef, though, and it might stand a chance. The setting is delightful. As it stands, though, there doesn't seem enough buzz about any of the food venues in the place, and the final whack of a RM24 car park bill underlined for me that a return in the near future is far from likely. Though in fairness I did get lucky with the car park - it wouldn't take my money and on trying to pay at reception the nice lady validated for me. Would be a great venue for visiting Michelin chefs, though. Now THAT might be an idea…

MIGF - AWARD WINNING MENU 2014

Full Menu RM 180+ per pax 

STARTER/ DÉMARREUR

3 huîtres de Français de Clair de style different 

americaine, polonaise et rheetaise

3 Different Styles Fin De Clair French Oysters

American, Polonaise, Rhetaise

FROM THE OCEAN / DE L’OCEAN 

Crabe royal a l ‘ivoire, scampi de l ‘ atlantique et

beurre de truffe

King Crab a l` ivoire, Atlantik Scampi and Truffle Butter

SOUP /SOUPE

Ail jeune grille  

Roasted Young Garlic

ENTRÉE

Foie gras traditionnel ‘au torchon’ served avec

Un saumon poche dans un consommé de menthes du Viêt Nam 

Traditional Foie Gras ‘au Torchon’ served with

Slow Poached Salmon in Vietnamese Mints Consume

SORBET

Baies sauvages au sirop de cerise

Wild Berries with Cherry Syrup

On Going / Sur le Depart

BEEF / BOEUF

Steak Black Angus au four, strudel aux pommes

et a la nappage aux morilles

Simply Baked Black Angus Steak, Lamb Apple Strudel

Morel and Demi Glaze

OR

Le cabillaud et thon fumé croustillante avec un beurre blanc au citron et gingembre, 

accompagné par du chou, noix de pin, Parmesan et pommes bouillies au beurre

Crispy Fresh Cod and Smoked Tuna with Lemon – Ginger Sauce, 

accompanied by Cabbage, Pine Nuts and Boiled Buttered Potatoes   

CHEESE/FROMAGE

Plateau de fromage française assortise

Assorted French Cheese 

DESERT / DÉSERT

Gâteau Opéra avec ragoût des baies

Opera cake with berry stew

CAFÉ / TEA

Coffee /Tea

PETITS FOURS

Wines

Champagne Thierry Grandin NV

2002 Pol Roger Sir Winston Churchill

2004 Dom Perignon

2009 M Chapoutier Les Tanneurs Saint-Peray Marsanne

2004 Vosne-Romanee Domaine Confuron-Cotetidot

2008 Chateau Pontet-Canet Pauillac

2003 Chateau Leoville Barton

1985 Domaine De Chevalier Graves

Vincent Cremant de Bourgogne NV

2009 Connetable Talbot

IWFSKL President's Dinner 2014 at Sage - magnificent!

December 13th 2014, Kuala Lumpur

Stephanie and Edna

The President’s Charity Dinner is the IWFS Kuala Lumpur Society’s annual black tie gala dinner and was once again being held at the Sage Restaurant on Saturday, 13th December 2014. This made for the third time in succession. It's a great fit - the Japanese/French fusion creations are consistently magnificent, they do our wines free of corkage and supply excellent glassware, and the service is superb. And people like the open kitchen which lets them watch Chef Daniel and his team in action, Why fix something which clearly isn't broke? Equally, long term relationships make for flexibility which is never a bad thing. Especially in Malaysia. A very big "attaboy" to Jeremy for once again liaising with the Sage and ensuring everything on that side was shipshape and Bristol fashion.

We also use the occasion to look to raise funds for local charities. In this, members donate good bottles from their fridges which then go under the auction hammer at the dinner where members and guests bid up the bottles. All proceeds go to the designated charities. Donations in cash and kind from suppliers and friends are also invited and this year we had quickly amassed a total of 32 lots (which got added to as members brought additional bottles with them to the dinner for the hammer. This gave a happy headache as to where to slot them in to the existing sequence, but was effected quickly and without argument - well done Wong Yin-How!)

IWFS KL Secretary Yin-How, Committee Members Brian and Dr Stephen and IWFS KL President Dr Rajan

The KL Branch has been around for growing and expanding for sixty one years and has now expanded to boast a membership is now 112 (including Joint Members). This makes it the biggest branch in the whole of the Asia Pacific Zone of the IWFS. The society had a bit extra bunce from the Beano that was the APZ Festival the previous year so it was felt the boat could be pushed out a bit with regard to the wines without raising the price too much. So it was we started with the lavish and lush Moet Rose NV in our flutes to pair with the delightful Tuna Otoro and Kampachi Kingfish sashimi canapes. Great sweet and salty blitzes of zippy loveliness and a raspy freshness on the sashimi which made the bubbles tingle and tantalise. Good start. 

IWFS KL President Dr Rajan Karunakaran

President Rajan called dinner to order and did the usual welcome to members and guests and noted with… possibly relief, actually, that all had adhered to the black tie dress code. One suspects that the relief lay in the fact that no one (ie him) had to eject someone for not having a black tie. Well, we had been reminded about three times in the run up to the dinner to remind our guests about black tie. I brought a couple of spares in my tux pocket just in case. Not nice to send someone home for a tie. A loud jacket maybe, but not a tie. I had been designated to say a few words about the wines and the pairings, which went quite fast. I always get a bit fast when I talk about wines. Other things not so, but wine talk gets me talking faster than the Roadrunner can run. Odd. Anyhow, duty got duly done and we all got down to the fun. 

Spoiler alert - the evening was magnificent. All the dishes and wines were standouts, both individually and in pairing terms. It was good to hear lots of positive comments about this from all around the room and from a broad range in terms of palate sophistication. Sometimes you only get the odd one saying something, but tonight there was quite a bit from a goodly number of people. And when it comes from those who really know their food, you know you've been royally wined and dined. Yes.

Gotcha! Chef Daniel being rudely interrupted by me

The Seared Smoked Norwegian Salmon was magnificent - a meaty chunk of beautifully fresh meat seared to light perfection. Full of taste and flavour, the Avocado Mousseline with Avruga Caviar were a bit secondary but added a small hint of season to support the main element. Wonderful texture on the meat, that slight give on the bite but that delightful melt as the spit hits the fin. Perfecto. 

Seared Smoked Norwegian Salmon, Avocado Mousselline and Avruga Caviar

Pairing with the Pinot Gris might originally be viewed as a bit off - surely a salmon needed something with a bit more heft? Normally, maybe so - but this was no normal Pinot Gris. The Akarua had a firm enough body that cut the health giving Omega 3 oils in the Salmon superbly, and able to do so without undermining the lovely fruit in the wine. The notes talked about orange and ginger, I got peachy pineapple and dragonfruit. A smart choice, anything heavier or oakier would have masked and smothered the meat - the Akarua complemented so wonderfully well. One of those where you half forget the way they pair and only later realize that you have just tasted something for the ages. Lots of "oohs" and "ahhs" and praise for the Salmon on the table. I just shut up and ate.

Plating up the Salmon

Second out was entitled the Royale of Tarabagani with Mirugai, Hotate and Daikon Cress. I had to look it up and found it was Japanese Red King Crab Soup which got served with an added scallop and something that had that texture of bean curd and egg custard tart - a kind of Scallop Tau Foo Fah but with a miso soup feel about the thing. Tastewise it was brilliant - the broth and the tau foo with the amazingly sweet crab and equally amazingly fresh scallop blending and melding into something incredible. Felt like the tau foo gave it soft undertone texture to let the crab meat swim around a lake of light umami goo in the mouth. I could try and claw for superlatives (claw? crab? geddit?) but this will do. Words have never been the best means to describe sensations, especially in food and wine. I do what I can.

Royale of Tarabagani with Mirugai, Hotate and Daikon Cress

Pairing with the Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc 2009. I had shared with the assembed that the Nosey Parker had described this wine as "astonishing" and "Possibly the best dry white the estate has produced since the proprietors, the Cathiards, acquired the property in 1990", and for me it totally lived up to all the praise heaped on it by the wine writers. A blend of 90% sauvignon blanc, 5% sauvignon gris and 5% sémillon, it was delightful and delicious and a range of other de-lovely words you might think of.  Standout wine of the night, and possibly of the year for me.

All decked out in best bib and tucker...

In my introduction to the wines, I shared that some of us IWFS KL members had been on a jolly to Bordeaux the previous year and had visited the Smith Haut Lafitte vineyard and drunk this wine in the cellar. For me, it combines the Sauvignon Blanc zest with a Chablis richness and lots of layers. It was a stunning vineyard and property, and a stunning wine to sear the memory. I also suggested that for those having the fish as the main, it might be worth to try and save some as it should be a cracker match as well. Don't know if anyone did. I didn't. But then I was having the beef. 

Me and the Wine Doctor had been volunteered as auctioneers for the night. We decided it would be best to split the sessions and each conduct half the lots in each session. We were ably assisted by spotters and recorders to get the contacts of the winning bidders. The first part of the auctions went quite smoothly and rapidly, and it was back on the table for the main courses. Both the Surveyor and Pontet-Canet had been poured during the auction and were waiting for demolition. 

Wong Kin Mun, Vanya, and David Teh

Named after New Zealand's first Surveyor General, the 2010 Surveyor Thompson Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir was intended to pair primarily with the fish but at the same time should also be able to extend to the lamb. Matching wine and food is primarily looking to connect similar textures and weight in both - light food with light wine, medium weight food with medium texture wines, and so on. At the same time, we need to have some versatility whereby one wine can flit across one or two dishes. Hence, the lightish textured Surveyor for both Fish and Lamb main courses. The vineyard practises biodynamic viticulture and is a working on full biodynamic certification. The relatively frost free, warm mesoclimate and free draining soils provide ideal grape growing conditions, producing an excellent concentration and intensity of flavours. The notes talked about “Dark Ruby red in the glass with a rich and vibrant bouquet of blackberry, red currant and spicy dried herb aromatics. A warm rich palate with multidimensional brooding dark flavours, underpinned by layers of texture and with a long graceful finish…”(RP 90/100). We found it pleasant in a chugging kind of way - quite full in the mouth and on the nose and with big fruit and a long finish. It did indeed stand up well to the bit of lamb I stole from dinner neighbour Wong Chee Leong. 

But for me it was the pairing of the Pontet-Canet and the beef which was the star for the night. Both were stunning, and the pairing was a magnificent Christmas present - succulent, tender meat cut beautifully by the firm and full tannins of this darling wine. As with the Surveyor, the Pontet-Canet had been chosen with multiple pairing in mind- this classic Pauillac Cabernet based Bordeaux would be a traditional natural with Lamb but should also go cracker with the Beef. I admit I am biased; I love this wine and the stories behind it - the biodynamics, the horses that eat the grapes, and the people behind the wine - but it was just lovely to drink this on the night. Good bodied without being over punchy in the mouth, silky tannins, even finish, good full fruit in the mouth with enough in complexity terms to satisfy those who want such things in the wine. And as said the beef was totally out of this world - lovely lovely, lovely combo. 

Medallion of Beef with Foie Gras and Red Wine Sauce - phwooargh...

The second half of the auction got staged at this time and the bids were higher than usual. Got a bit semi serious to the end of the night as the bids got higher and higher for some wonderful wines. Total raised topped out at RM190,000 which was absolutely brilliant. The big spenders looking to stock their wine fridges for the year had clearly come out with a very generous vengeance. The charities should be wonderfully pleased - I heard whispers that other charities are quite envious of the fact that so much is raised by IWFS in one event - to get this kind of money they would need three or four events (which naturally comes in at a lot of time and phone calls to armtwist for sponsors and to organise).

Sanjeev, Serena, Chris, Dr Rajan and James the Banker

The 2010 Chateau Rieussec Sauternes being paired with dessert was clearly way before its time - the notes talked about leaving it for twenty years and then maybe it could be drunk. Someone reasoned that many of us at the dinner would not be around in twenty years so best to drink now and bear the infanticide being committed on the wine. True to the notes, it will be magnificent in twenty years. But it was tasty enough on the night. Nicely sweet and crisp and even in terms of syrup and cloying. Figgy, sweet, apples and pears with honey. 

Guests Paul and Molly Lim

And then it was over. Well, almost. It is tradition that no prisoners be taken and the few fizz and desserts that were left got swallowed by the diehards. I know because I was there. As the faithful reporter on the comings and goings of the Society, one must do one's duty. Or so I am told. Didn't get so many shots of the food as usual - bit up and down with the auction I guess. Or it might have been the wonderful booze. Not unknown for the reporting responsibilities to get swallowed up in the enjoyment of the evening. I do what I can, but my  weakness for a good chug of wine with a tasty chunk of beef gets in the way. The universe just comes into perfect karmic focus and much else becomes secondary to the moment. O so wonderful and blessed to be human and to have the sentience to recognise the perfect bliss that is food and wine!

Bummer alert - some of us remembered the good Doctor Gan who had sadly passed thirteen days previously whilst undergoing chemotherapy for a resurgence in his leukemia. He refused to become a member of the IWFS but always enjoyed an invite to this annual bunfight. He always got one. Also continually refused to own or wear a monkey suit, maintaining his dark suit was sufficient for the occasion. He was missed. 

President’s Charity Dinner at Sage Restaurant

The Menu

Canapes

Tuna Otoro with Aioli and Nori

Kampachi King Fish with Salted Kelp

NV Moet and Chandon Rose Imperial 

First Course

Seared Smoked Norwegian Salmon with Avocado Mousseline with Avruga Caviar

2011 Akarua Pinot Gris

Second Course

Royale of Tarabagani with Mirugai, Hotate and Daikon Cress

2009 Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc Grand Cru Classe De Graves

Palate Cleanser

Soursop Granite

Main Course

Pan Fried Amadai with Sea Scallop, Baby Spinach and Caviar Beurre Blanc

Or

Slow Cooked Hillside Lamb Rack with Shiromiso and Blue Cheese Sauce

Or

Medallion of Beef with Foie Gras and Red Wine Sauce

2010 Surveyor Thompson Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir

2008 Chateau Pontet Canet Grand Cru Classe Pauillac

Dessert

Guanaja Dark Chocolate Marquis with Anglaise Sauce and Yoghurt Ice Cream

2010 Ch Rieussec Sauternes

Coffee or Tea

THE WINES

WINE 1 - NV Moet and Chandon Rose Imperial 

Rosé Impérial is a spontaneous, radiant, romantic expression of the Moët & Chandon style, a style distinguished by its bright fruitiness, its seductive palate and its elegant maturity. 50% Pinot Noir, 40% Pinot Meunier, 10% Chardonnay.  Dosage 9%. Glowing pink with amber highlights in the glass, a bewitching lively bouquet of red fruits (wild strawberry, raspberry, cherry) with floral nuances of rose and a slight hint of pepper. Palate combines the juicy, persistent intensity of the berries with the fleshiness and firmness of peach and the freshness of a subtle note of menthol. 

WINE 2 - 2011 Akarua Pinot Gris from Central Otago in New Zealand

Akarua is an iconic Central Otago winery, crafting premium wines since 1999.  The wine is 100% Pinot Gris from Bannockburn. Bright and clear in appearance with a pale golden hue in a style that is well structured and with a richness and poise that typifies Akarua Pinot Gris. On the nose, lifted aromas of orange blossom and pear juice lead to a lush layered palate with white peach and citrus flavours. The wine finishes with a zesty punch of fresh ginger and orange peel tang.

WINE 3 - 2009 Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc Grand Cru Classe De Graves

A blend of 90% sauvignon blanc, 5% sauvignon gris and 5% sémillon. 

Brilliant yellow in the glass, a quite delicate nose with floral overtones. Its full aromatic potential is released with aeration, revealing hints of yellow fruit (vineyard peaches, apricot), flowers (honeysuckle, broom flowers), and a touch of flint. The wine starts out straightforward on the palate, filling out to become rich and powerful (this is undoubtedly a food wine). The aftertaste is delightfully flavoursome, with yellow fruit (mango, apricot, and candied pineapple), sweet spice, and gunflint. The finish is quite long and delicious, and the wine is altogether rich and savoury.

Robert Parker had this to say: "… Possibly the best dry white the estate has produced since the proprietors, the Cathiards, acquired the property in 1990, this wine exhibits a sensational fragrance of buttered citrus, honeyed melons and a touch of grapefruit, lemon zest and orange rind. It also displays grapefruit on the attack and mid-palate as well as real opulence, terrific acidity and length. Drink it over the next 15-20 years. Astonishing!" (RP 98/100).

WINE 4 - 2010 Surveyor Thompson Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir

Surveyor Thomson Wines reflects the intimate connection between the Hall-Jones family and New Zealand's first Surveyor General, John Turnbull Thomson (known as Mr Surveyor Thomson, hence the wine name). 

The vineyard practises biodynamic viticulture and is a working on full biodynamic certification. The relatively frost free, warm mesoclimate and free draining soils provide ideal grape growing conditions, producing an excellent concentration and intensity of flavours. 

“Dark Ruby red in the glass with a rich and vibrant bouquet of blackberry, red currant and spicy dried herb aromatics. A warm rich palate with multidimensional brooding dark flavours, underpinned by layers of texture and with a long graceful finish…”(RP 90/100).

WINE 5 - 2008 Chateau Pontet Canet Grand Cru Classe Pauillac

Following biodynamic principles in its vineyards and cellars since 2005, in 2008 the sound of horse's hooves replaced that of tractors as an experiment designed to avoid compacting the soils. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon 65%, Merlot 30%, Cabernet Franc 4% and Petit-Verdot 1%, it is a wine that has attracted a host of accolades. 

The Wine Advocate praises the 2008 as "A candidate for the “wine of the vintage (boasting) an opaque purple color as well as copious aromas of sweet blueberries, blackberries and black currant fruit intertwined with lead pencil shavings, subtle barbecue smoke and a hint of forest floor. Full-bodied, with fabulous richness, texture and tremendous freshness, this first-growth-like effort is more developed than the uber-powerful 2010. Give it 5-8 years of cellaring and drink it over the following three decades. Bravo!"  (WA 96/100). 

WINE 6 - 2010 Ch Rieussec Sauternes

Chateau Rieussec is planted to 90% Semillon 7% Sauvignon Blanc and 3% Muscadelle. Harvests are done in passes and could last for as long as 6 to 8 weeks.

“…. in bottle it has become a contender for the finest Sauternes of the vintage. It is blessed with a pure and lifted bouquet with ripe peach, nectarine and honey, hints of shaved ginger poke their head above the surface with aeration. It is very subtle. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, perfectly judged acidity and convincing harmony. This is a sophisticated Sauternes with superb mineralite and outstanding persistency. I will confess that I pinned this as “Yquem” and was both shocked and pleased when its identity was revealed.” (WA 96/100).

CHARITY AUCTION - WHERE THE MONEY GOES

Over recent years, the amounts raised has been substantial due to the amazing generosity of our members and guests by way of cash donations and the proceeds of the wine auction. IWFS KL members and supporters donate wines or dinner vouchers to help raise funds for channeling toward deserving causes. Last year a sum of RM130,090.00 was achieved of which we all should be very proud. We always hope to exceed our previous records!! We have therefore a challenge before us to try to reach a substantial target as we did last year but I am sure that with your continued generous support we will again be proud of what we can achieve. Please show your compassion and caring for the poor, unfortunate people that we will be supporting; they really need all the help and assistance that we can offer.

You can rest assured that the charities we help have been properly vetted are most appreciative of our assistance. In fact they always express their delight and request us to extend their thanks to you all.

This year we will be supporting two new charities - the Special Children Society of Ampang (SCSOA) and the Society for the Severely Mentally Handicapped Selangor & Federal Territory (SSMH).

The Special Children Society of Ampang is a non-profit organization, providing a centre for children and adolescents with various disabilities. The aim is to help them maximise their full potential and achieve an independent, fulfilling life. Established in June 1999 with three students it has now grown to seventy students, their ages ranging from three to thirty eight years. Some of their disabilities range from Down Syndrome, Autism, Cerebral Palsy, Global Delay, Epilepsy and Slow Learning. There is always a waiting list as space is limited and there is a shortage of teaching staff.

The Centre allows the special children access to a meaningful education and vocational training. It provides a holistic programme and training for the children. They aim to teach the special children living skills; to stimulate their faculties; to nurture their ability to progress further; to advance their educational needs; to provide them with vocational training and to expose them to sports, the arts and to society. It also provides guidance for the parents, families and caregivers.

It is run and managed by a parent-steering committee with the assistance of volunteers, teachers and a team of operational staff. It is currently funded by contributions from parents, public donations and fund raising activities. They stress that they are in dire need of help to cover their mounting running expenses and they now wish to extend the Centre in order to help more who are on the waiting list.

The Society for The Severely Mentally Handicapped, Selangor & Federal Territory was founded in 1984 because of the determination of a group of parents with mentally disabled children. It is a tax-exempt non profit organisation that provides day care and training to severely mentally disabled children aged 2-19 years old. These children have great difficulty in using their limbs and jaws. The systematic habit training routines taught here enable these children to cope. Every child has an Individualised Educational Programme. 

They are guided through simple communication and manual skills, basic health and safety habits and they eventually progress to basic reading and arithmetic skills.

The Centre is staffed by five full time teachers, a housekeeper and an administrator. There is a physiotherapist, an occupational therapist and a speech therapist. They are all supported by a Panel of Educational and Training Advisors. Parents, volunteers and some medical professionals help out. It also promotes and stimulates research concerning severe mental disability in order to develop locally appropriate methods of care and treatment.

All of the charities we have supported are always most appreciative of our assistance. They continually request for us to extend their thanks to everyone; they do really need all the help and assistance that we can offer.

More details and photos of the centres and their activities can be found at the respective websites: 

www.scsoa.org.my 

www.ssmh.org.my

There are also videos on Youtube 

SCSOA - http://youtu.be/zvoqClGfTCU

SSMH -  http://youtu.be/ACy62T8bius

I do recommend you take some time to look at the videos. Some of the disabilities are heartbreakingly severe.  We able-bodied tend to take so much for granted. Silly things like walking, or putting on a shirt by ourselves. These are things that these kids dream about. And when you see the look on their faces when they achieve something like…… walking, or putting on a shirt by themselves - unbelievable. As if the sky had just opened and the sun had smiled on them. Real, total, pure achievement. The staff of these Centres have a strength way beyond most of us and are some of the true unsung angels in our society. 

So, please do dig deep to buy up these vinous treasures. Because when you open them in the company of friends and share the story of where they came from, the wine will surely taste that little bit sweeter. Good bidding!!

“Fragrance remains in the hand that gives the rose”

Pontet Canet and Noble House Food - Yum!

Display for the Pontet-Canet

Mmmmnnnhhh….

That dull ache at the back of the neck and across the temples. sure signs of a good full and satisfying night. 

This is the morning after feeling following the previous evening's pairing of Noble House Cantonese cuisine with various vintages from the cellars of Chateau Pontet Canet. Organised by Ivy Lim from Vinum, the paring would showcase the vintages of 2000, 2003, 2008 and 2010 and offer a taste ot the Tesseron cognac to see if the assembled liked it enough to want to buy.

Most times, this muzziness gets in the way of being productive. Not strangely so with the writing, though one does still need a coffee kickstart to get the brian in focus and the words flowing. Hard life, eh? I should complain. Be nice to get some income from all this nonsense though. Any suggestions anyone?

Armed and ready...

There was a fairly full turnout of just under fifty for the dinner. Seems the numbers had been increased to accommodate the demand for the dinner. Indeed, at RM380 for all the food and the wines being poured, it was a very good deal. And starting with the Bruno Paillard champagne being generously poured into our flutes set a most delightful easy tone for the night. Nice biscuit on the nose, clean and firm, somewhat acidic fruit - sharply bracing but pleasantly so. Everyone got warmly greeted by Melanie Tesseron from Pontet Canet who seemed to half recognise faces from her previous visit to KL last year. I didn't - felt and looked a totally different crowd possibly due to a different organising wine distributor. Professionally warm and smooth - as said in a previous posting, Mme Tesseron is a superb ambassador for the Chateau and the wine. See my previous post for Chateau Pontet-Canet at Prime Restaurant.

On the table were goodie bags with a glass bung and drip pourer and a cute thank you note from organiser Ivy. Nice touches. They do make the effort to show we as punters are appreciated. That's how you keep a customer. 

We were seated in a private room that was large enough to take all forty diners with good space for pre dinner mingling and relaxing. Set with traditional round tables, the ambience was easy, light and with lots of space to breathe between seats and tables. Little earth tone touches on the walls and visual displays contrasted the generally light coloured tablecloths.

Lenglui, Lengjai and Melanie Tesseron of Chateau Pontet-Canet

Kicking off the evening with a Powerpoint and a friendly chat, Melanie shared the history of the vineyard and its accolades through the years. Highlight was us learning that the horses they use to till the land and carry the produce like to eat the grapes. As a result they literally put the cart before the horse so that they get picked before Dobbin can get his teeth into them. Presumably it also works the same way a carrot would before a donkey. Someone wondered whether the horses like to drink the wine as well, but that was sotto voce. 

Pan Fried Foie Gras with Teriyaki Sauce and Stuffed Scallop. And handphone.

The food followed fast. First course of pairing a scallop with seared Foie Gras and Teriyaki sauce felt a shade over the top, with neither really helping the other in terms of taste. Separately, though, they were stunning, the scallop especially - firm yet light, great bounce on the chew with the freshest of tingles on the tongue and teeth. And coated with a light crisp batter lent a delightful (I think) peanut oil crunch to the experience. Stellar. I think sometimes a restaurant will add loads of Foie Gras to a menu to give the impression of grandeur and getting bang for the buck. Often, it doesn't really add anything - they would certainly have been better as two separate dishes. 

The Bruno clared the gunky sauce very nicely which tamed his acidity to a more easygoing level and let a bit of stewed apple come through.

Lenglui, Vinum's Ivy Lim and friend YC

Somehow the wines got crossed and the first course got paired with the 2008. Whether a happy accident or a deliberate choice, it proved a better match. Soup can rarely pair with anything and had the bold and fruit driven 2003 come out with it, they would have done each other no favours. As it was, the lighter, tighter, lean and clean 2008 made for as good a bedfellow as one could reasonably hope for. Good berries, cassis and chocolate with some green pepper. Nice chewy tannins with good acidity, though the fruit felt a bit thin in balance terms. Drinking nicely now, it didn't feel as there was much left in it. It felt a bit ordinary, though it would eventually prove to give more sleekness and complexity further down the bottle. 

The Double Boiled Soup was that odd combination of salt and sugar and oil that somehow comes together in a full bodied satisfying blend. The beef had been wrapped around bunches of enoki mushroom and half mushroom and cilantro which made for a nice fresh bite. Came across as a kind of fusion Sukiyaki in Chinse broth. Interesting. And international.

Double Boiled Superior Soup with Beef and Enoki Mushroom in Japanese Paper Work

Some Bruno had miraculously escaped earlier oblivion and actually made for a pleasant match with the soup, bringing out more fruit in the fizz. 

The 2003 was big and full on. Massive fruit on the nose and mouth, big body and firm tannins, all very nicely balanced. One felt that this one had a lot longer to go. The story was that 2003 was a big sun summer so the fruit got a bit baked on the vine and concentrated the flavours. I got a slight stalky note somewhere, a hint of bitter pepper. But it was only on one taste - the rest was quaffed and sipped with the reverence one should normally accord such delightful wine. 

The Pigeon was very tasty. It had that air of game about it - that whiff and taste of age and oily wildness that pinches the cheeks and somehow makes you want to hawk and spit and swallow at the same time. This one had a dry crisp skin, with a smoky taste that suggested it had been charred over oak chips. It was also very salty, suggesting a dab of soy sauce or MSG had been rubbed into it. Darn tasty, and the 2003 went gangbusters with it, exploding the mouth with its fruit and tannin and melting the pigeon into lean cuisine. Some started with the knife and fork but ended up using fingers. Small birds need the human touch. 

Roasted Pigeon. And handphone.

The 2000 had a somewhat tight nose at first blush, though the swirl revealed lots of nasal layers and the promise of complexity. Immediate spice and tobacco and full earth.

The Lamb Cutlet was nicely warmed and peppered with excellent fat and basted with a smooth hoisin sauce, giving it a barbecued and slight charred feel as a result of being grilled. It was most tasty and excellent, borderline outstanding. Got fire, got heat, got pepper, got sweet, got juicy meat and texture - eat this and die. Ho Seck as the Chinese might say, though Dam Siok would also fit the bill.

Grilled Lamb Cutlet with Garden Green Salad

The 2000 did very well, though its sleek complexity lost the battle with the Hoisin sauce. It needed bigger fruit to stand up to it. In this, the 2003 was the better match on the day. It faced down the sauce with its bold mouth and flavours and both lamb and 2003 CPC each brought out layers of taste and suppleness in the other. Total back of the net. The 2000 felt a shade old. Not to say that there is no life left there, not at all. Just a little out of its depth given the relative youthfulness of the other wines and the power of the sauces in the food. A sipping wine rather than the food chuggers than the 2003 and to a lesser extent the 2008. 

Pan Fried Australian Beef Steak served with Garlic Fried Rice topped with Foie Gras

The Beef Steak had a sweet smoky taste to it, as though it had been basted with the same sauce. Texture wise, it was excellent, just that….  the sweet sauce rendered it to taste pretty much the same as the previous dish. Perhaps the sauce from the lamb had got stuck on the tongue and it was this that was getting in the way. Kind of like the tongue had been sugared out and everything was tasting sweet. Well, and maybe no - Noble House does ilke its sweet sauce. There really felt like a generous dab of it on the steak, which was a pity. Contraryt to perception, we westerners do like an occasional bit of variety between our dishes. 

We had a VERY good time! 

The Fried Garlic Rice with Foie Gras was revelatory. The sweet oily fat of the FG paired wonderfully with the dryish starchy rice and mellowed across the mouth in a sumptuous gunky chew and textured swallow. Nice blending of textures. So good. Perhaps a bit too much rice on the night, though I understand it is often considered good manners in a Chinese situation to not eat the rice - to do so can be seen as a signal that the preceding dishes were insufficient to satisfy. Certainly felt a bit bloated at the end of it all.

Again, the big fruit of the 2003 on the table worked well with the steak, though the 2010 was total magnificence. Full in the mouth with a frisk of pepper  and beautifully balance, it gave off spice and umami when paired with the sweet steak. The 2010 is a big sucker of a wine and clearly in need of good food to showcase it. Total, total belter. Though at SGD360 a bottle it's a bit of a whack to the wallet. Much as my head tells me to buy, my Scotsman heart winces at the thought of parting with that kind of cash for a bottle of wine. Can get a lot of outstanding Chilean and American for that kind of wedge. 

Chinese Pancake and Tesseron Cognac

The 2008 was still on the table and some was still getting poured and gratefully received. It got better down the bottle, maybe needing a bit of air to bring it out. None of the wine had been decanted, and whilst I am not a fan of either in some situations a wine can benefit from being poured. The 2000 might also have benefited, though perhaps there were not enough decanters to cater for the forty plus in attendance. Nicely elegant, this 2008. Reminiscent of a 1997 Rauzan-Segla I had years ago when I was just getting into wine - understated power, good sleek and a bit lively. 

We were winding down and the brandies made it to the table with the Chinese Pancake dessert. All of the glasses had paper labels on their stems indicating what wine was contained and the cognac glasses were no different. Very nice touches. It takes time and care to do this which are not always in large supply at wine dinners. And there didn't feel any stinge on the wine pourings. Vinum is to be commended in this. The 76 felt sweeter whilst the 53 was more fierce and fiery. Cognac is not a strength in the palate and is not something that gets drunk regularly enough to claim connoisseur. But it was a pleasant end to a most enjoyable and pleasant evening. Chef came out and got introduced and Melanie ended up getting photographed and signing empty bottles for the guests to have as a souvenir of an excellent night. Everyone was clearly happy with the evening, the wines and the food. 

Can I have your autograph please? 

In retrospect, the mains were quite Western in content and presentation, though the preparation was in Cantonese style. Indeed, the fork and knife on the table next to the chopsticks gave the lie to the idea that this was in any way true Chinese cuisine. But it was very tasty. As noted elsewhere in this blog, my Chinese food guru refuses to eat at the Noble House, saying it is too "gwailo" and sweet for his taste. Fair, but the lamb was beautiful and the steak was good. Just a bit of a shame that they tasted the same.  The vintages showed the infinite variety of style that Bordeaux is capable of producing. The 2000 was showing nicely with great elegance and balance, the 2003 has tremendous power across all levels and clearly has a long time yet in the bottle, the 2008 was somewhat lean and austere whilst the 2010 had a depth and complexity that is probably worth the price being charged for it. Vinum were also giving 10% off their Bordeaux selection in Singapore, and special prices on the Pontet Canet for the night. Still thinking about this - the 2010 has a large price tag, double that of the 2003 and 2008 though Ivy just sent me a text saying that the 2003, 2006 and 2008 have all gone. Belter though it is, it's a bit beyond the comfortable range - can buy a lot of decent and reasonable claret for the price of a single bottle. But then that's me - skinflint when it comes to spending. We'll see - still got a few days to consider. The 2010 is very nice….

MENU

Pan Fried Foie Gras with Teriyaki Sauce and Stuffed Scallop

Bruno Paillard Brut Premiere Cuvee NV

Double Boiled Superior Soup with Beef and Enoki Mushroom in Japanese Paper Work

Ch Pontet-Canet 2003

Roasted Pigeon

Ch Pontet-Canet 2008

Grilled Lamb Cutlet with Garden Green Salad

Ch Pontet-Canet 2000

Pan Fried Australian Beef Steak served with Garlic Fried Rice topped with Foie Gras

Ch Pontet-Canet 2010

Chinese Pancake

Tesseron Cognac Lot No 76 X.O. Tradition

Tesseron Cognac Lot No 53 X.O. Perfection