Chapoutier Wines at Topshelf - fantastic night!

More desktop clearing. Also trying to boost the number of posts before year end. Didn't take the camera to this one, as I was not really expecting a knockout dinner, so I only got some crappy handphone shots. Lenglui took more and better, but lost the handphone on a trip to France. Forgot to ICloud them too. Bugger. Bloody French.

5th September 2016

Topshelf, Taman Tun Dr Ismail

We have had very good dinners at Topshelf and this was one where all the stars and the wine and food and traffic gods aligned (well mostly - apart from a somewhat manic and panicking Waze and a bit of heavy traffic getting there). Excellent food, very good wines, delightful company and home before 11pm feeling well sated both gastronomically and bibulously. One of the times when the food was more memorable than the wines. Darn outstanding in fact - every dish I can recall even now. The Quail especially - magnificent with the Foie Gras and Port Wine sauce. Wines not so, but good gear nonetheless. I think they were all maybe a bit young and (for me) a bit on the thin side - Rhones need some whack and as memory serves these expressions were a bit lacking. Definitely go back for the food, though. 

We had been to Topshelf on a previous wine dinner with Villa Maria wines (click here for the report) and enjoyed the food over the wines. But the place seemed to have got forgotten in the madness of the various food groups we seem to belong to and the need to take an occasional evening off the sauce. The foodie groups all seem to prefer new places and traditional Chinese cuisines and madness expeditions into the urban wilds in search of the perfect tongue and belly titillation. Also, the Topshelf borders on the "quite a trek to get there through bad traffic" so that it rarely enters the consciousness as somewhere to head to. Shame, really - though a few recent trips have put this part of TTDI back on our map so we shall see.

Lenglui and I arrived a shade late due to ignoring the berating we were getting from the Waze to turn back home and start our trip again. Visiting Chapoutier wine chappie Michael Travostino was just finishing up his opening spiel as we slunk in and found out seats next to the Governor and other assorted IWFS diehards who all looked somewhat stunned for some reason. Perhaps all were in need of more wine, given the low levels I could see in the glasses on the table. I understand. 

It looked like quite a full house of about fifty plus, all already sipping on the aperitif and charmingly pleasant first wine, the Belleruche Blanc. A blend of White Grenache and Clairette and Bourboulenc (never heard of these) this was being billed as "pale yellow and limpid.. citrus aromas and exotic fruits… fresh.. well balanced, lots of fatness and length." Didn't find it all that fat, actually quite fresh and blowsy, cheeky in the cheeks and a good quaffer. And clearly so, the way the table seemed to be sucking it down - lots of refills coming through with the whites. 

The speech ended quite quickly with little in the way of rumblings from the tables. My experience is that when people feel "enough of the speech already", they will start whispered conversations which gradually rise in number and volume and normally give a perfect cue for the speech to stop. Well, most of the time - some occasional thick faced visitors who have their spiel perfected and enjoy the sound of their own voice (Ed -does that include you, dear boy?) will plug on to the very bitter and stultifying end. People normally will listen politely for a while, but if the content is too turgid or the voice a dull monotone that makes you want to bang your head on the table then they will make their preference known and shut the fellow up. Yes. Our friend tonight sensibly kept things short. 

The menu said there were to be three Amuse Bouche, each with a different wine to pair. First out was the Ceviche with Herbs and Pea Espuma. This was a shot of fish in pea mush which seemed to gain a choppy black pepper hit from the wine. In contrast, the fish brought out apricot and peach notes and a somewhat richer mouthfeel. The Ceviche was nicely done and the presentation with a wafer cone of creamy something to dip into the pea mush. This was a well crafted piece of food elements that combined great pea sweet cream with a carbo wafer and vinegared raw fish - the mouth was indeed nicely amused.

Tomato and Octopus Salad. Tentacular...

The Tomato and Octopus Salad was also very good, with the salad proving most refreshing given the lime vinaigrette hit. The avocado was well ripe and slimy which made for a cracking contrast with the firm chewy bite of the day fresh Octopus chunks. 

The Quail. Magnificent.

It was being paired with the Les Meysonniers White, 2014, a total Marsanne with no other grapes in the bottle. The notes talked about "pale yellow…quince, peony and roasted almond nose… palate supple and fresh with good length."  The wine's texture was somewhat more oily and industrial with a firmness in the weight and mouthfeel. Didn't get much in the way of fruit, but seemed to get a cute pop of chili oil when sipped with the Octopus. 

Never been a great fan of the quail I have eaten in my time, but I have to say that the one tonight was stunning. Great seasoning with a mushroom like stuffing, full of bird taste and without that gamey oily feel that quail seems to continually exhibit. Imagine the lightest, freshest spring chicken you have ever eaten and triple the intensity of the taste - that was this bird. The Foie Gras was smooth and clean and lean and tasted fantastically fresh and wonderful. Chef definitely has talent to put these together. Wicked sinful debts to be paid at sometime in the future. But not tonight.

It was being paired with the 2014 "La Bernardine" which I found a bit light but which brought out brilliantly earthy notes from the mushrooms. The table expected more power and fruit in the CdP and I had to agree. It needed far more whack and came across as more CdR than CdP. Texture wise it would have gone gangbusters with the duck. Sadly there was not enough pourings to put this theory to the test. Only the most restrained and disciplined of drinkers would have been able to reserve a little given the apparent thimblefuls we seemed to be receiving. Though I think someone blagged some more of the earlier wines. The Boozer's Mantra - Take whatever comes.

I was having the lamb though I seem to remember whacking Lenglui's duck with deep joy and abandon. Beautiful taste and texture on that bird. 

The Duck. It was the total Quack

Back to the Lamb and the Gnocchi was a knockout. Sublime texture on the cheesy potato gratin, coming across like a Camembert. The lamb medallions were nicely done and the jus was stunning - fire, taste and power and which took the meat and creamy Gnocchi into overdrive. Great, great satisfying combo but with taste and whack and finesse. No notes on the 2013 Cote Rotie. 

Dessert

Also no notes on the dessert (as usual) or on the Muscat. I seem to remember feeling quite sober at the end of it all, though not to say that there wasn't enough wine - just perhaps not enough of the better stuff? But foodwise it was a brilliant night. Have to take the gang there one night and bring our wines. The downside of Topshelf is that it IS a bit isolated, located along a dark back road in Taman Tun which anecdotally puts some in fear of Mat Rempits on bikes rolling up and stripping the assets of the assembled before disappearing into the backstreets. In this, stories of Motor Bike robbery of restaurants and petrol stations do occasionally surface on Facebook or Whatsapp and I now carry an old phone and a fake wallet to some of the more isolated places just in case. Over-reacting? Perhaps. But better safe than sorry. And I figure one can always run into the kitchen to grab a pot of hot soup to douse the bastards or crack them across the skull or the knees with a wok or kuali. Go Mat Rempit on your bike after one of those, asshole…

PS I seem to recall somewhere along the evening The Governor holding court about how Brexit was a good thing ("Britain being ruled by these bloody Europeans - can't have it!") and the ongoing ruin of the Malaysia left by the British in the 1950s. Well, and maybe - I still think it is a mistake to leave the EU, and far better to seek reform from within than without. But the Brits have never been good Europeans and probably never will be. Different patterns of thinking that don't seem to jive with the Continentals. There you go. Got to love The Governor though - he is the old generation of Brits who still know how to command compliance with the well chosen epithet or the meaningful silent stare. Total projection of gravitas and don't playplay with me, sunshine. Maybe we should set HIM on the Mat Rempits...

Topshelf Restaurant

61, Lorong Rahim Kajai 13, 

Taman Tun Dr Ismail, 

60000 Kuala Lumpur

Malaysia

Phone: +60 3-7727 7277

Menu and Wines

Amuse Bouche

Ceviche with Herbs and Pea Espuma

Cotes du Rhone "Belleruche" Blanc 2015

Tomato and Octopus Salad

Marinated Roma, Avocado, Grilled Octopus

Micro Herbs and Lime Vinaigrette

Crozes Hermitage "Les Meysonniers" Blanc 2014

Stuffed Quail with Foie Gras

Mushrooms, Truffle with Port Wine Glaze

Chateauneuf du Pape "La Bernardine" 2014

Mains

Confit de Canard

Slow Cooked Duck Leg, Potato Puree and Caramelised Onion

Cote Rotie "Les Becasses" 2013

or

Grilled Lamb Loin

Roasted Lamb Loin, Pesto, Garlic Cream, Saffron Gnocchi and Lamb Jus

Cote Rotie "Les Becasses" 2013

Chocolate and Coffee Cremeux

70% Noir Dark Chocolate Cream

Olive Oil and Maldon Sea Salt

Muscat Beaumes de Venise 2014

Dinner accompanied by San Pellegrino Mineral Waters

Meatology and Veramonte Wines - mostly good!

August 26th 2016

Phoo…

Belly buster of a week on the food trail. Two Western style wine dinners in TTDI and two Chinese blow outs in the wilds of the KL environs. Thank the Lords for Waze. Well, most of the time - bugger still likes to take us on the wild goose hunt rather than the direct routes we know. Though most of the time it does seem to know best.

First up was Meatology Restaurant, which involved pairing fine meat with wines by Chilean producer Veramonte and introduced by visiting Brand Manager Sarah Hajjaji. Lenglui and I had actually visited this vineyard en route to catching a ship in Valparaiso out of Santiago in 2009. We figured we needed some booze for the boat and insisted the driver stop at a vineyard - Veramonte was the first sign we saw and there we supped and bought. The vineyard was like a vast ranchero with modern renovations to delight the tourists. But no cows. I remember the top end wines being stunners (Cabernet 2005 and 2006) and we bought what we could. We also managed to get the non drinkers to carry a couple extra for us and circumvent the apparent quota of two bottles per person for bringing on board - they most graciously agreed. Nice people.

We rarely see such good stuff make its way to these shores, a point I reminded Sarah of a number of times through the evening. Not sure if she got the message, but I live in hope. The most we see are the introduction Reserva varietals and the "Primus" which is an occasionally velvet and rich blend of the Veramonte varietals (Cabernet, Syrah, Merlot and Carmenere). But those Cabernets at the vineyard are seared into the memory - belting wines they were.

We arrived a bit late and found ourselves getting seated away from the main room where a predominantly young crowd were getting boisterous and noisily boozed. This turned out to be a blessing - we were able to sip and eat and enjoy some conversation with both ourselves and Cynthia and Sally from Cave and Cellar, organisers of the evening. 

The restaurant has been up and running for about a year, with apparently an upstairs area to cater to larger groups. Previously going by the name of "Boathouse" (for eleven years according to one source), the name changed following the launch of a book written by Chef and Operator Yenni Law. 

Foodwise, the dishes were pleasant enough. The zesty Mussel and Clam shot perked up the mouth whilst the Balsamic Bacon salted the whole. This all made for a lot of work for the Sauvignon Blanc to clean up which it efficiently did. The duck felt a bit flabby - bit like a day old chip of Tau Foo in texture and not much taste. As said, the SB was efficient in its cleansing and made for a good quaffer. I think it was 2014, so certainly peaking in friskiness terms. Worth to hunt down in the supermarkets for quick drinking. 

My Seafood Bisque felt a bit cold, though perhaps this was my fault for arriving late (horrendous traffic on a Friday night and parking was madness). Tasty enough, though nothing that at this time of writing that stands out as memorable.

In contrast, the Escargot with Blue Cheese was a sparky salty creamy delight - all goo and chew and springle zaps in the cheeks. The snail texture was firm enough and the whole ensemble sang nicely. Would come back for this one.

Quite why it got paired with the Merlot was a bit strange. Okay, the cheesy aspect would match the gentle acid of the wine, but the fruit and tannin seemed well at odds with this kind of food. The Merlot itself was a pleasant mouthful of fruit and cool finishing, but ultimately pretty non descript. Pleasant but a bit thin and bland for my taste. I like my Merlot full and fleshy and ripe - a floozy rather than the fair and chaste maiden this Veramonte seemed to be offering. In this context, it did not overpower the dish. But by the same token it did not do much to enhance the thing. This Merlot might be a useful pizza party wine to glug and chug and clink with friends. But not one I would serve at the table for the more demanding palate. 

I had the Ribeye whilst Lenglui and Texas had the Pork. I had a quick taste of the Pork which was a bit fiery on the tongue. Actually make that a LOT fiery on the tongue. Lovely fierce chili tang and bite and the pork was nicely done. Not my style of dish, but one that clearly would appeal hugely to the Malaysian palate. My ribeye was done nicely and tasted good, though a shade too much salt and seasoning for my taste. But still good and again one I would come back for. 

But the star was the Panna Cotta, an absolute delight of light creamy melt in the mouth loveliness that food dreams are made of. It was perfect combo of sweet creamy lightness with a hint of herb and a sugar crunch that fused together in a pure moment of wonder. Star star star. Loved it. My diabetes went ballistic but screw it. 

The Primus was indeed a blend in the standard Bordeaux style but the result was somewhat thin and lacking the whack one might expect from something that bills itself as "The Blend". The notes talked about "deep, dark opaque garnet. Exotic spice, toast and hints of tobacco and mint. Ripe red and dark berry fruit with spicy notes. Round mid palate with elegant yet powerful tannins." Didn't get it. Mine was firm, reasonably full in body though not so much that it would win any bodybuilding contests. Fruitwise, more plum than berry, yes to mint and low spice, and the mid was fair. Not a large finish, though after the third refill it seemed to gain more of a whack in the chest as it went down (must say the pourings were most generous on the night). It went reasonably well enough with the steak but naturally died with the tangy pork. Might have been stellar with the lamb. I have had Primus previously with Pork Rib at Checkers (2007, 8 or 9 - I forget) and it was vaguely reminiscent - pleasant mouth, not a big finish. Nice wine, but perhaps Meatology's big tasting beef overpowered it a bit. 

Had a quick chat with Chef to share my thoughts. She seemed to take them on board, but ultimately who am I to argue with a veteran meat chef and book writer? She knows her meat and the best ways to cook the sucker. And getting all the food out reasonably hot to forty plus punters is always an achievement. Still, all these places are in competition with each other and need to maintain an edge to get the customer's gig. 

Would I go back? On balance, yes. I would like to to see what Chef can do when there is not a large crowd to cater to all at the same time. Regret to say that I don't see in in the near future. It is a trek and a slog to get there and find a parking spot, though perhaps earlier in the week might prove a better choice. And there is always Uber, which Texas took on the night to get there way ahead of us (though he happily accepted a ride back). We shall see. Steak of choice remains Chambers at present (see previous write up). Not sure what the Meatology corkage policy is - give them a bell beforehand to check. 

Meatology Restaurant

16 Lorong Rahim Kajai 14

Taman Tun Dr Ismail

60000 Kuala Lumpur

03 7727 4426

Cave & Cellar 

47, Jalan PJU 1a/16, 

Ara Damansara, 

47301 Petaling Jaya, 

Selangor, Malaysia

MENU

Pre Dinner Canapes

Mussel and clam meat picante

Bacon Roll and Balsamic Glaze

Smoked Duck en Croute

Veramonte Riserva Sauvignon Blanc

Dinner 1st Course

Seafood Bisque laced with Brandy

Veramonte Riserva Sauvignon Blanc

Dinner 2nd Course

Creamy Escargot with Blue Cheese Spinach Cream

Veramonte Riserva Merlot

Mains

Pan Grilled Grass Fed Australian Ribeye with Shallot in Red Wine Jus

or

Grilled Lamb Loin with Tomato Raita

or

Baked Fiery Pork Ribs with a Spicy Tang Coat

Veramonte Primus Blend 2010

Dessert

Panna Cotta with Organic Palm Sugar served with Rosemary perfumed Cream Cheese and Macaroon

Chateau Musar wines at Denise@TTDI - okay...

Chateau Musar Wines Tasting Event at Denise Wine House@TTDI April 20th, 2016

Chateau Musar Reds

This was a joint collaboration between the IWFS and Dionysus Asia, the purpose of which was to offer IWFS members an opportunity to explore and experience wines from a rarely explored wine region. May had been approached by the wine distributor and a deal worked out whereby they would supply the wines for tasting but IWFS would pay for their food. At RM65 it was a steal and the twenty spots got quickly snapped up by the members.

Chateau Musar grapes come from the Bekaa Valley in Lebanon. Jancis Robinson's Wine Course notes this valley is located "on an inland plateau as high as England's highest highest mountains" which allows the winery to produce "some very exciting bordeaux-like red wines…inspired by a visit to the Bartons of St-Julien." 

Kit, Ania and I left a bit early in anticipation of heavy traffic getting into TTDI. It did get a bit slow past the Jalan Damansara toll but eased out after the first TTDI traffic lights. Actually took about 30 minutes. 

IWFS KL Members thoughtfully chugg... er, sipping on the Musar white wine

The Denise Wine House was well appointed in a shophouse on one of the main drags in TTDI. On approach it looked like a parking nightmare, though this would dissipate on turning the bend and straight into a perfect spot for later exit. Inside, there were rails and shelves of bottles that were quite esoteric in origin and a shade stiff in price, though presumably that is the premium for their esoteric nature - the unusual always demands a margin. Walkign through to the back led to a small dark candlelit room in which barrels and tables were located and chairs on which to sit, drink and eat. Mostly polished wood, it was cosy and cool. There was a small wine cellar in airconditioned glass to the side and a TV with a laptop against the wall for presentations. Most pleasant, especially when the lights got turned on and we could all see each other.

Originallly it was planned that Sales Director, South East Asia and West Pacific Sales Director Mr. Ralph Hochar would be on hand to talk about the wines. As it panned out, he would prove unable to attend due to a family emergency. We hoped that all would be well soon and passed our best via Dionysys' Desmond.

The halal charcuterie - was very tasty!

Some of the dishes contained pork and non-pork food options were made available to members unable to partake. Those of us on such tables made a temporary reseat onto one where the cured meat was available. It was quite good - Spanish and Italian salami I have seen in the Supermarkets. Went well with the light red 2009 Hochar. 

The food was allegedly with a Lebanese twist, which seemingly proved to be Pine Nuts in various concoctions on each. There was enough of it, but outside of the wonderful Balsamic Salad dressing and Iberico Pork Chop the food was pretty forgettable. Especially the pasta which ended up as a lump of cold noodle mess on the plate. Vanessa collected everyone's to feed the street dogs around where she lives. Hope they enjoy it more than I did. 

But the food did provide a useful foil against which to taste the wines, and certainly did allow different characters to show through. All were pleasant and eminently drinkable, though a shade on the thin side for personal preference. I do like a bit of crisp in my white and heft in my reds and not enough seemed on display in these Lebanese offerings. Nice, but not that nice. 

Two of the reds - which to choose?

 On the night, people seemed to prefer the 2000 Red. We also got a 1999 Red to contrast and which was claimed by the Wine man to be one to cellar for another 30 years. Well, and maybe - for me, it felt like it was peaking though I am no expert as to whether this style of wine can be laid down for the next generations. I have had some Spanish and Portuguese aged wines and found I was not really able to appreciate them. Though in fairness, the 1999 had some similar textural qualities so maybe the Wine Man had a point. Teh Governor said he would not be buying - his policy is now Buy To Drink. Though he continues to confess a weakness for bidding on Christie's Wine Lists. 

Pitt Lee, May and Kalsom

The evening wound down with offers by The Wine Man of 15% discount on purchases. some people bought, though as said I didn't think it was "that" nice enough. David decided it was time to open a bottle of South African fizz for all of us to try and by the time we had scarfed that and swept up the reds we were all feeling quite nicely oiled. I called time and got us all home safely, notwithstanding a long detour necessitated by unexpected road works on the Jalan Damansara. One day these road works will end. Yeah, right…

Prakash and YC

Was a good noisy evening of food and drink and well worth the drive there and back. The Denise is a pleasant place to suck on a bottle and chew some salami with friends, though perhaps a shade more functional than the somewhat easier atmosphere and chairs that can be found at Ceggo Boardroom in Taman Danau Desa. Bebe's food there has the edge as well with her Rosemary and Truffle oil Pork Shoulder. But the wine girls at Denise were very pleasant and generous - worth seeking out if you're in the mood for a snacky rather than a full on main course style dinner. 

Denise Wine House @TTDI, 

60 Jalan Burhanuddin Helmi, 

60000 Kuala Lumpur

Tel 03 7727 7033

THE FOOD

Lebanese Salad with CHATEAU MUSAR JEUNE WHITE 2013

Gazpacho with CHATEAU MUSAR JEUNE ROSE 2013

Charcuterie with CHATEAU MUSAR HOCHAR PERE ET FILS 2009 and CHATEAU MUSAR RED 2007

Pasta with Lebanese Twist with CHATEAU MUSAR RED 2000

Iberico Pork Chop with CHATEAU MUSAR RED 1999

THE WINES

CHÂTEAU MUSAR JEUNE WHITE 2013

Varietal: Viognier 35%, Vermentino 35% ,Chardonnay 30% 

Appearance: Pale lemon in colour. 

Aromas: Fruity and herby aromas – of apricots, white peaches, pears, honeysuckle and elderflower. 

Flavours: Fragrant and vibrant, aromatic wine with a hint of nuttiness on the rich, yextured palate with gentle acidity and a peachy finish.

CHATEAU MUSAR JEUNE ROSE 2013

Varietal : Cinsault 100% 

Appearance: A light salmon, pink colour. 

Aromas: Peaches, pears and white stone fruits with a hint of mandarins and rosewater on the finish. 

Flavours: Fruits of quince, apples and Seville orange marmalade, nice balanced with soft well integrated tannins and good acidity with a cranberry juiciness on the finish.

CHATEAU MUSAR HOCHAR PERE ET FILS 2009

Varietal: Cinsault 50%, Cabernet Sauvignon 15%, Carignan 15%, Grenache 20% 

Appearance: Deep dark ruby colour. 

Aromas: Rich dark berries – black fruits, plums and dark chocolate. 

Flavours: Intense and vibrant, enriched with ripe forest fruits, plums, black cherries, prunes with layers of dark chocolate following through. Beautiful balanced, complex with a good tannin structure.

CHÂTEAU MUSAR RED 2007

Varietal :Cabernet Sauvignon, Cinsault and Carignan 

2007 was a good year for the Cinsault which displayed red berry and concentrated cherry fruits, reminiscent of Amarone. As the Cabernet Sauvignon rested in vats, it showed intense coffee bean aromas and ripe fruit, typical pf a warmer vintage.

CHÂTEAU MUSAR RED 2000

Varietal :Cabernet Sauvignon, Cinsault and Carignan 

Appearance: Deep dark red. 

Aromas: Complex, intriguing mixture of figs, prunes, leather, dark tea, tobacco, black olives with spices and a certain earthiness. 

Flavours: Ripe black cherries, figs, damsons – even chocolate and olives. Good acidity with nice smooth tannins resulting in a wine which is full-bodied, rich and velvety, with very long length.