Nicolis Wine Dinner at Stoked - Nice!

Monday August 21, 2017

This ended up as a fun and light hearted evening full of noise and chatter and good food and wines. This is being written a full two months after the event, thanks to rescuing some photos of the evening from a phone purge and finding a copy of the menu with some notes thereon. The memory of the food is a bit fuzzy, but the photos speak for themselves. Well tasty food and well tasty wine!

The well tasty veggie chips and horseradish dip

Oyster Gelee - yum!

Yin-How excels at bringing in very tasty wines from a range of producers to the restaurant to pair with the food output of the kitchen. And naturally we are very happy to support! Especially with two Amarones on the table. Has to be said, though, this is not a style I tend to buy, mostly because the ones previously tasted have been sweet fruit bombs that sent my dopamine cells ecstatic and snapped the gauge off my sugar level tester. Also the prices make me squeak. I get it that the labour intensive production and holding times for maturation require a higher premium; it's just that I don't really want to pay through a duck's butt to die faster of sugar related overload. Already doing a good enough job with the wine sales that seem to be cropping up with increased regularity and the irresistible prices that some of the distributors seem to occasionally offer. There is only so much wine one can drink and store, n'est-ce pas? Yes.       Actually, no - everyone I know is a sucker for a wine bargain, myself included. Have to find more occasions to share the good stuff. 

The August adventure for Stoked brought the wines of the Nicolis family from the Veneto region of Italy to the table, and Giuseppe Nicolis, the second generation owner of the winery would be hosting the dinner. Nicolis is one of the established smaller sized producers whose wines have consistently been well received by critics, and Giuseppe would showcase the full range of his Valpolicella, Ripasso and Amarone wines, and would also include one from the rare single vineyard Ambrosan. 

Herbs Foccacia and Balsamic

In his promo email, Yin-How shared that the Amarone of Nicolis was one of the first wines that piqued his early interest in the grape, showing him the depth and complexity that wine was capable of. He says that "the name Amarone instantly conjures up a classically powerful, slightly off dry and unique style of red wine." He has clearly tasted the good stuff - as said, my previous Amarones had been boozy blackberry jams in consistency and taste. I was hoping for enlightenment on my road to Damascus. Well, Damansara if you live in KL...

So it was that a full house of 32 sat at 7.30pm for our canapes. We were with Mr and Mrs Texas who had quickly got stuck into the bowl of foraged flowers and vegetable chips that went belter when dipped in the horseradish dip and washed down with the welcome white. Wine Searcher says that the Sasso Bianco is a bit rojak in terms of the varietals that go into the blend, though indicatives include Trebbiano, Vermentino and Sauvignon Blanc. The Mantellassi website also notes that this producer makes many wines including those from grapes Grenache (Garnacha), Vermentino (Rolle), Chianti Blend, Cabernet - Sangiovese, Sangiovese, Eau-de-Vie, and Cabernet Sauvignon. Wine Searcher also says that this is one of the least expensive Maremma Toscana wines, circa RM33 as exchanged into Euro (about E6). It was a bit meh on its own but perked up nicely at the sight of food. Nice easy poolside pizza white. For the dishes, the flowers were chewy, the chips had lovely salty bite, the oyster was zippy in the spice and the bread was wafer crisp and melted on contact with the mouth. Lovely stuff. Calls for more horseradish went unanswered. 

Sweetbread and Tomato Sofrito

Don't really have much in the way of notes for the dishes and the wines, but the standouts were the tomato herb sofrito and the sirloin. The Softrito was whisper light and wonderful texture and salty sweet across the tongue and made for a good mush contrast with the sweetbread. The sirloin was beautifully cooked and full of tender meaty bite and chew though the kale on the dish felt somewhat raw and a shade earthy. My Monkfish was a touch overdone yet still tasted good, though I didn't quite get the gnocchi; dusty grey balls looking like moonrock or whale's balls and drenched in a sicky sweet soy sauce. Tastewise it made for a good pairing with the fish, but it didn't leap off the plate into the eyes or the camera. As ever, can't remember dessert. 

Winewise, the 2008 Amarone was the acclaimed star and I saw a little of the light with this one. Way less jam and far more welly than my previous samples, this one had full firm fruit, lovely tannin and structure, balanced alcohol and a decent but not overwhelming thwack in the chest. The 2010 felt a shade less powerful up against its big brother, though still did enough to merit three ticks on the menu. Sometimes you need a taste of class to understand the fuss and bluster. We ended up buying the 2013 Seccal for its overall friendliness of approach, firmness of body and texture, and ease of sip and drinking. A versatile drop that will stand with ease in the company of manly boozers or fine bibbers across a steak table. Regret to say that the Amarone is still a bit the wrong side of price friendly to the Scot in me. Just as well it was sold out - Scotsman could make the excuse "ah, that's a pity, would LOVE to have bought a couple..." Maybe next life. 

Monkfish and gnocchi. Yes.

This was my first introduction to the culinary offerings of Stoked's new master at arms in the back room. Somewhat different in approach from the previous chap whose real passion (I feel) remains the fish. This one shows more integration in what is on the plate and the scavenge, er, foraging bent in his background is clearly en vogue. Whatever, he can certainly cook a decent steak. And there is always some good thought put into what kind of offerings will go with the wines being presented, rather than the slight feeling of wine clearance one occasionally gets at some of the other pairing dinners. 

Sirloin and Laguiole Bone utensils

Nice to see a range of plates being used and the addition of Laguiole bone cutlery for the beef was most pleasant. Staff were well controlled and wine pours across the room looked fair. Though perhaps Yin-How's glass got a shade more attention given his long association with the producer. Nice to remember old wines and their makers. Some of them do indeed come to be friends. 

Sgr Guiseppe Nicolis explains his wines

Nicolis Wine Dinner at Stoked Restaurant & Bar

Menu

Foraged Flowers, Tamarind

Chips of Local Vegetables

Oyster Gelée, Spicy Herbs

Herbs Foccacia, Balsamic Leather

Mantellassi Sasso Bianco Maremma 2015 RM105

Veal Sweetbread, Tomato Herbs Sofrito

Valpolicella DOC Classico 2015

Mushroom-Glazed Cod, Gnocchi, Port Jus

“SECCAL” Valpolicella DOC Classico Superiore Ripasso 2013 RM145

Dry-Aged Ribeye, Grilled Onion & Kale

Amarone della Valpolicella DOC Classico 2010 RM280 (Vinous 90 points)

Ambrosan Amarone della Valpolicella DOC Classico 2013 RM375 (Vinous 91+ points)

Mixed Berries, Yoghurt Sorbet, Filo Pastry

Coffee / Tea

Petits Fours

NB wine prices were after discount but with GST

IWFS Kuala Lumpur Visit to Champagne, Burgundy and Alsace September 2016 - Day Seven

Heading to the bridge and (not) our boat

Friday, 30th September 2016

I have little memory of the Columbier Hotel room or of getting everything down and on the bus. Some vague recollection of a forgettable breakfast at the hotel, with all the Pilgrims being directed into a separate area to eat. I seem to recall quite spartan offerings at the trough, with somewhat underfresh bread and cake. Perhaps I am confusing the hotels. Anyhow, all the bags got loaded and on the bus and we were off for what was the last day of our tour in Strasbourg. The grey overcast start to the day pretty much stayed all the way through the morning though thankfully the threat of rain stayed off.  After a pretty nondescript drive, we rolled into Strasbourg where Napoleon again silently dumped us at the roadside alongside a river. Dear Leader had scheduled a boat ride planned for the morning, the boarding for which was on the other side of the river. So off our Pilgrim Crocodile trotted to a bridge that would get us to the dockside ticket office and some seats. 

Almost at the bridge - our lepak waiting area

With over a million people across the city and Metropolitan area, Strasbourg is both the capital and largest city of the Grand Est region of France. Wikipedia says that various European institutions are located here, including the Council of Europe (with its European Court of Human Rights) and the Eurocorps, the European Parliament and the European Ombudsman of the European Union. Strasbourg is also the seat of the Central Commission for Navigation on the Rhine and the International Institute of Human Rights.

Strasbourg just reeks with history, with buildings dating back centuries still standing. In 1988, UNESCO declared the city centre, the Grande Île (Grand Island)  a World Heritage site, which Wikipedia notes is the first time such an honour had been placed on an entire city centre. Although much disputed territorially between France and Germany, Strasbourg has remained a cultural bridge between the two nations thanks in large part to the University of Strasbourg and the sense of religious tolerance the city sought to maintain by encouraging the coexistence of Catholic and Protestant culture and now Muslim culture (the Strasbourg Grand Mosque was inaugurated by French Interior Minister Manuel Valls on 27 September 2012). Initial impressions of the town were that it is quaint and pretty but grey and faded, as if its best days were in the past. Notwithstanding it being home to the European Parliament, all the buildings looked Gothic and Medieval and felt aged and in need of a spruce up. 

David checking for opening time?

Most of the Pilgrims looked in need of a pee so we hurried in search of les toilettes. En route, I have memory of David crossing the road to look at the menu of a Chinese Restaurant located there. I guess he might have been checking opening times. My experience of the Malaysian Chinese on Europe tours is that, whilst thoroughly enjoying all of the food and wines, there is a hankering for a decent bowl of rice or noodles ("fur" it is sometimes called) that kicks in after about three or four days in country. Many in the West have a similar thing for potatoes and bread - all the fancy food somehow doesn't fully satisfy and we need something that sticks in the craw. More on this later.

Heading to the boat

Once across the bridge, the Pilgrims lurked for a few minutes before being advised by Dear Leader that there were about twenty minutes before the boat could be boarded. Lenglui and I found a coffee bar just across the way and shared an espresso which was our price for using the bar's bathroom. As I reached the washroom I saw one of our Pilgrims swiftly and furtively nipping out through the back door having clearly used the facilities without buying the usually expected coffee. Made me feel stupid for having bought the coffee when I could have done the same - bugger. Wonder how said Pilgrim found out about the free pee? Whatever, the coffee was excellent as was the packet of free ginger biscuits and created a nice shared memory with Lenglui of coffee in Strasbourg. There was a market happening in the streets so I sat at the table and watched the world whilst Lenglui had a quick bout of, literally, market research. Don't remember it being fruitful on this occasion.

The new European Parliament...

We tootled back to the Ticket Office where most of the other Pilgrims had gathered and Dear Leader gave us the starting gun to move the Pilgrim herd down to the riverside for boarding. The boats (well, more like oversized barges) were long and blue perspex glass covered affairs with about thirty rows of about six seats on each side of a narrow aisle. We got sat near the waterside edge and fiddled with earpieces we got given at the gangplank to try to find the English audio voice recording that would accompany the tour. The boat filled up quite quickly which I found a bit surprising - I somehow did not expect such a trip to be so popular. There were locals, tourists, people with suitcases and backpacks - and mostly European. On a working day some more. There you go. 

and the Old. The inside of either I will unlikely see...

The boat let slip its moorings and we motored into the middle of the water. Strasbourg sits on the River L'Ill and according to the map the old town centre is islanded by the Foss Du Faux Rempart. All of the main historical sights are quite viewable from the boat, though the perspex windows made decent photographs a bit difficult. I took a few en route but was not pleased with the results. Was also not pleased with the audio recording. Initially unable to find the British version, I had settled on what sounded Australian. Presumably in an effort to make our Antipodean cousins feel at home, the voice tone was that of a Bushwhacking Tucker man just back from a kangaroo hunt, me old cobber. Ingratiatingly false and hugely patronising in language, I put up with it for a while, but when he started talking about composers like "Bark" and "Moe-zaaart" I had to pull the plug. Well, pull the earplug. A little more fiddling and I found a young Mancunian Brit who was a lot more informative but who after a while also became irritating. There's only so much of a chirpy North Yorkshire voice that one can take under a grey Strasbourg sky. Well, this one anyway.

Pilgrims getting directed by Monsieur Sanjeev. Oui.

The perspex covering made for rainproofing but it did get a bit stuffy after a while, with little in the way of air circulation through the boat. But the river tour was a very good way to get a sense of the city and its history. Was also a good way to see young Strasbourgians (Strasbuggers? Surely not...) sharing lunch and what looked like migrant refugees camping out under the bridges with cardboard and duvets to keep out the winter chill. Some of them waved to us. I don't remember seeing anyone wave back. There but for the Grace of God...

Bread and beer. O my lordy...

We went up as far as both the old and the new EU Parliament buildings before returning to our embarkation point. The commentary said the New had cost billions of Euro, which raised a question as to "why" and "who had voted for it?" I think I heard that the Old is being earmarked as a museum of something or other. Wonderful. As we passed and U-turned our way back I couldn't help thinking that I would probably never see the inside of them. Brexit would surely see to that - the EU is naturally going to give the UK a dam hard time for electing to leave pour encourager les autres. Which kind of made me feel sad. However people vote, Britain is a part of Europe both geographically, historically and politically. For all of that to get torn up by 4% of the electorate I find darn hard to stomach and leaves me feeling that the UK is now long term economically screwed. Not that Europe is guaranteed a future, but I feel is better to seek reform from the inside than be a single little hammer trying to break down a fortress wall from the outside. Especially with an economically resurgent Russia on the far side of the fortress. Time will tell.  

But all of these thoughts had disappeared once someone had found the short walking route through the town to lunch. This was at a place called L’Ancienne Douane. Small from the outside, the place proved to be internally huge with a warren of rooms both up and down a set of stairs. There were many other groups having lunch at the same time as us, and for the kitchen and staff to be able to cater to all of us with the swiftness that they did was amazing. The logistics alone would tax the best of organisers. 

The Meat Platter. Felt like a homecoming...

We got sat down at two tables. Dear Leader had billed this one as "Casual a la carte lunch at a historic eaterie founded in 1401. Many Alsatian classics." I guess he had given up on using the word "light". But O what a wonderful lunch it would prove to be. Remember I mentioned about some Westerners hankering after solid food? Well, I am one of them. Don't get me wrong - the food had been magnificent. But it had been food for the eyes and belly - I was ready for something for the soul. And L'Ancienne Douane would supply some in spades. The menu whispered of Sausages, Potatoes and Ham and other strange and wonderful sounding dishes. And litres of beer. We ordered various plates of simple delights and shared across the table. It was totally memorable for its wonderful simplicity in contrast to all of the excellent food we had had to date. This was great beer and meat and bread, simply prepared and presented and all the more welcome for it. I was so very happy for the option not to drink wine for a change. As said, excellent swift service from an entertaining football fan of a waiter who wished my home nation Wales all good fortune in the upcoming World Cup qualifiers. 

Crisp raw salad

A brief walk around the place found an outside verandah section overlooking the river and with fantastic views of the city. Shame we could not have sat there, but it was a bit cool and there were probably too many of us to accommodate. I stole a couple of packets which I thought were books of matches but which turned out to be books of toothpicks. Would happily come back here for the beer and sausages and this time sit by the river. Great, great memory.

Restaurant A L'Ancienne Douane Strasbourg

6, rue de la Douane

67000 STRASBOURG

03 88 15 78 78

www.anciennedouane.eu

anciennedouane.rv@elior.com

At the table in L'Ancienne Douane

Pilgrimettes at the Sofitel

We all clambered back on the bus for a ten minute drive before getting dropped off at the Sofitel Hotel. Supposedly Five Star elegance in the heart of the city, I must say I didn't quite get it. Highly modern reception with lots of colours and high windows looking out onto some garden, and not much real character left in the place. On finding that there was a stairwell to get to our room, Lenglui opted to change rooms to one on a floor that was flat. This took thirty minutes to effect. The resulting room was modern with TV and bath. The downside of lunch was that I was totally stuffed and pretty much beyond any decent exercise. So I opted to stay in the room to pack and sleep ahead of a large night and a long day to follow. Feeling pretty bloated, a walk would definitely have been good. But the packing did need doing and I do like to do it at my own pace rather than madly stuffing everything in the case at the last minute at an ungodly early hour with a hangover. Lenglui went for a walk. And a shop. Of course.

Entrance to Le Buerhiesel

Within an hour I had packed most of the non essential stuff into my Orange Mandarina Duck (more pale tangerine after all the battering it has received at the various airports but still eminently serviceable), leaving out a toothbrush for the morrow. Sadly, the belly had refused to de-bloat sufficiently to warrant a stroll, so I took a shower and a nap ahead of the dinner. The room was modern dark with the curtains drawn and one of the blackest I have ever slept in - total isolation booth with the curtains drawn. Had to keep the TV on to keep a latch on reality. 

I was pretty much dressed for dinner by the time Lenglui returned. She reported that the town centre was very pretty and with some good shops. So it goes. Sorry Strasbourg - maybe next time. If there is one. 

The Pilgrims slowly started to gather for dinner in the reception ahead of our final transport with Napoleon. It seemed he would not be bringing us back to the Hotel from dinner and we would need to get taxis.  I seem to recall a slightly subdued mood on the bus, though this was probably more me feeling resignation at another impending bloatfest when the previous one was still coursing through the system. It was a pretty sunset that had turned almost dark by the time we got to our destination. This was the Restaurant Buerehiesel, a one Star Michelin, and billed as "arguably the best restaurant in Strasbourg in a beautiful setting in a park." Napoleon dropped us off at the Park entrance and as said this was the end of our time together. As I walked to the bus door, I half stopped to say "Bon Chance mon Brave" but he was busy counting money with his back to everyone as we all got off. Pretty much summed up this relationship. Bye bye Napoleon, thanks for not crashing the bus with us on board… 

"Garcon, ou est le booze.... please?"

A gentle walk along a park path led to the restaurant. As said, dusk was quickly turning to dark, which made for a somewhat eerie darkling stroll. It somehow felt that there could be Vampires abroad, in the shapes of all the young Frenchies out for an evening run or bike ride, all getting ready to bite Pilgrim necks and drink Pilgrim blood. Though with the levels of booze coursing through our veins they would have got alcoholic poisoning. The lack of decent lighting did twitch the antenna a bit as suggesting a perfect spot for a mugging, so the watchdog in me kept an eye out. Unnecessarily as it would happily turn out - we all got there safely and arranged ourselves on the stairs up to the place for some group photos before piling in.  Maybe the Vampires went after Napoleon...

Ambience and setting at Le Buerehiesel

The Michelin One Star "Le Buerehiesel" (which translates to "Farm House" in Alsacienne) was actually a working farm dating back to 1607 and which was transported brick by brick to the Parc de l'Orangerie for an international exhibition in 1895. Viviane and Antoine Westermann bought the property in 1970 for it to become Antoine's first restaurant. The Michelin Guide give him his first star in 1975, a second in 1983,  and the third star in 1994, at 48 years old. He left the Le Buerehiesel kitchen for pastures new in 2007, though the family connection remains with the kitchen now being helmed by son Eric.

Orchid ambience

"Over the years, Westermann has revisited the Alsatian culinary tradition in his own way, and many emblematic dishes have emerged, becoming part of his three-star repertoire: “Truffle Foie Gras Crusted Pâté”, “Young Hen in a Baekeoffe”, “Frog's Legs with Schniederspaetle”, “Beer Brioche”, “Young Fatted Hen Terrine with Fennel & Foie Gras”. Naturally curious, his first love outside of Alsace would be the cuisine of Southwestern France. Some have said he is the most Mediterranean of the Alsatian chefs. As early as 1994, he would be listed among the five top chefs in France, along with Alain Ducasse, Bernard L'oiseau and Michel Bras. His preferred cuisine is generous, festive and elegant." (wikipedia)

Dinner was in yet another delightful room and split into two tables. Water and fizz came swiftly, as did a tray of pleasant sweet and savoury nibbles to get things underway. This was quickly followed by a delightful Amuse of what tasted and felt like Rollmop Herring with lemon vinaigrette and dill, all in a sourish yet sweet oil. It put me in mind of Copenhagen for some reason, kind of raw fishy rollmops of seafood freshly caught from the seas. The salty combo was a perfect foil for the wonderfully restrained yet excellently bubbled Cremant by Rieffel. It had great balance with enough acidity to scorch and tease the cheeks yet not so that it would burn the throat. It also nicely stimulated the salivatories enough to make one want to hawk like a Chinaman contractor. But it did need the cold - the fizz got a bit flabby when it warmed. Outside of this, lovely finish, and a lovely drop. 

Doc Rajan and Stephanie

Next out was the Blue Lobster with Roast Potatoes (Homard Bleu Roti). Blue here means "very rare" as the flesh is supposed to remain a shade blue. The yellowish sauce in which our almost live Lobby was paddling tasted of Cumin and so imparted a pleasant spiced Kurma curry hit to the thing. This hint of Indian cuisine followed through, given the addition of some sweet apple which somehow lent a Mango Chutney note. The carrots were brilliant - sweet and softly crunchy and full of firm taste. But what really set the whole thing off was apparently some radish - somehow it brought the apple and lobster and all the goo into some perfect vegetal sweet salty bite and set the pleasure buzzers in the brain to overload. No words - my notes say "Fantastic - radish (?) + lobster + goo to finish was genius.  GENIUS." Though I think perhaps the second "genius" was more to make the first one legible. My scrawl can get indecipherable after some booze. But it was a well tasty dish. Naturally, I slopped up the Carrot and Kurma gunge with the bread and butter which was wicked good. The butter and carbo add suck and oil and the resulting crusty chew was absolute wow…  should create a new word for it - how about "imamu"? It is kind of the opposite of umami - sweet butter salty crunch with bisque-y fire and oil. What say?

Aperitif nibbles

The plates were cleared and there seemed a bit of time before the next made it to the table. Which somehow got me reflecting on the quality of the water being served. It struck me that we often take it so much for granted that our drinking water at the food table is potable. And we think little of it beyond the fact that it is there, and it is ordinary and not much more than a swilling agent to clear the tongue. Yet the night's offerings were definitely characterful. We had Evian still and (I think) Badoil sparkling and both were very good. Nicely neutral but enough minerality and body to cheer and cleanse. Somehow on the night, it seemed to make a difference. 

Amuse Bouche

Next out were Frog's Legs served with packets of Ravioli (which contained Onion, according to one recipe on the web) and served with the sweet honey bomb that was the Domaine Weinbach Pinot Gris (I think this was the one Lenglui and I bought at the Domaine during our visit a couple of days previously). The Legs were all upright and somewhat akimbo, and put me in mind of some inverted Dead Frog Can Can. They were drizzled with what felt like a light ragout style sauce and naturally tasted like tender nibbles of oily chicken well supported by the sauce and the perfect ravioli. I have no note nor memory of the onion - so it goes.

Blue Lobster - sounds like the name of a band...?

The Pinot Gris was a darn good choice to pair, its sweet acidity cutting the sauce and melding together into a rich, sweet, tenderly chewy…  ahhhhhhh in the mouth. Double double yum. 

The Dead Frog Can Can - all together now: "laaaaaa, la la la la laaa laaa...."

Dear Leader had perused the wine carte and decided that there was enough budget to splurge. So Wine Three would be an icon - a Meursault from the Coche Dury operation. I had vaguely heard of the label and understood it to be serious and hugely sought after. Which is why we love to join Dear Leader on these food and wine adventures - as a result of his extensive knowledge of taste and value we get to try wines and visit restaurants that would otherwise be beyond… well, my imagination certainly.  

Liquid Brickfields - the Coche Dury Meursault

What I did not expect was that it would smell and taste of curry leaves. It was like liquid Brickfields, all muruku and murtabak and Deepavali (NB Brickfields is the Little India District in Kuala Lumpur). It apparently cost Euro180, though at home would easily sell above RM1500. Got a crisp acidity with an excellent mouthfeel, of aged lemon and nectarines. Also that sense of power and grace and elegance which somehow lets you know you are in the presence of greatness. Great great wine. 

It was being paired with another one of St Peter's fish fillets in Tandoori style with some Portuguese clams. The fish felt a bit understated tastewise, though texturally it was perfectly poached. The amount of spice was enough to taste and not overwhelm. In contrast, the mussels and clams were hugely fresh and so full of taste, cutely underscored by a hit of mustard. I decided to pass on consuming the whole serving, given that we would be travelling on the morrow and one bad clam can put the whole journey in intestinal jeopardy. Shame - it was darn tasty. 

The Tandoori naturally intensified the Brickfields aspect of the wine which felt pleasantly odd - totally new sensation. Could almost hear sitars playing…    Chef should come to Kuala Lumpur. Perhaps he already has...

St Pierre fillet

David started a game of Golden Moments, inviting all the Pilgrims to share their favourite memories of the Pilgrimage with everyone. Most of it revolved around food or wine memories but there was universal agreement that the attitude which everyone showed toward the misbooking of the Colmar hotel was outstanding. Difficult to disagree here.

The room was getting a bit stuffy so the staff opened a window to let the chill night air breeze through which was delightful. 

Our next wine was a Beaujolais in respect of which the Marcel Lapierre is apparent royalty and we were having the flagship wine. My knowledge of Beaujolais is minimal - not a wine style I seem to have enjoyed, preferring more beef rather than the light strawberry I recall from the stuff I have tasted in the past. This one drank like a Burg - nice length, good acidity and firm cherries. But perhaps fresher and friskier with a lightness in the alcohol level that was refreshing after the Coche Dury. Lovely, friendly wine - I am now a fan.

It was being paired with Sweetbread and worked extremely well, the acidity cutting the crisp, oily slightly spiced gunky bite of the meat. Bit like the fish maw beloved of the Chinese banquet only with heat, it also reminded me of a deep fried Scotch Egg but without the egg - that peppered and crispy breaded sausage meat taste. Today's offering was not quite to my taste, but those in the know about this delicacy marveled at the taste and tenderness of the thing. I have had it on previous occasions, and I remember something a bit more crispy and less oily. There you go. 

Sweetbread

Someone not in the know wondered whether Sweetbread was from the thyroid or the pancreas or the brain? Our waiter advised it was from the throat of a baby cow. So now we knew. Yes.

There was a fifth wine that Dear Leader had selected to pair with the lamb - a 2010 Grand Cru Clos de la Roche from Domaine Armand Rousseau. I half recall buying up some Rousseau following the legendary Vinum Sale when they shut up their Sri Hartamas outlet some years back and we got it for 60% or something, and when the Ringgit was worth….  something. Those wines were excellent and the 2010 we were having here was a darling. Feminine, light, clean and fragrant, elegant and total class.

Lamb Cutlet. Total yum

The lamb itself was tiny - one thin cutlet and looking like it had come from something barely new born. It also looked pretty rare and lonely in amongst the forest of vegetables and jus that seemed to swarm the plate. Notwithstanding, it was wonderfully tender and paired magnificently with the tomato and jus. There were also some potato in a samosa style crispy packet which gave some mushy crunch to give an ensemble taste that was massive rich bistro. Total, total wow. 

Service throughout was excellent. Some last minute menu changes to cater to for individual gastro intolerances were handled swiftly and well. And water, wine and food service and plates removal were equally efficient. 

The wines

Again, no notes on the dessert but it looks pretty in the photo. There was some Coche Dury left in the glass. Time in the glass seemed to have intensified the curry leaf aspect and there was more oil on the mouth. We shall have to try one at Deepavali with the Muruku and a Curry Puff. Yes. 

Dessert

The evening (and indeed the trip) was winding down so President David took the opportunity to present Dear Leader with a Mont Blanc pen that had been procured following a whip round of the Pilgrims to raise the cash in recognition for his sterling work in putting the entire tour together.  And quite right too. 

David (left) clearly sad the trip is over with Dear Leader clearly feeling the opposite

And that was pretty much that. We got the restaurant staff to order us six taxis. Naturally, only five showed up and we got a promise that "zee ozzer one ees coming, Oui monsieur, yoo plizz wait zere, yes?" Took ten minutes shivering in the now cold and rain laden air for the boy to come, and a leisurely ten minute drive back through the Strasbourg streets to the hotel. Phoooooooo… Belly busted. Again. Crawled into bed to the sound of Sitars. Om.

Lenglui and me - cheers!

Menu Degustation

Mise en Bouche

Homard Bleu Roti

boulgour et fruits,

vinaigrette a l'orange et au ras-el-hanout

Grenouille

cuisses poêlées au cerfeuil et schniederspaetle

Saint Pierre de Petit Bateau

au tandoori, mouselline de coco de Paimpol,

mariniere de coquillages

Ris de Veau Rhonalpin

pomme croustillante, jeu de chou pointu, jeunes carottes de Marthe et petites girolles

Agneau de Bareges

roti et confit, zaalouka, courgette de truffe d'ete

sauce vierge aux olives

Pim's

chocolat et framboises acidulées

framboises fraiches et en sorbet

Wines

Cremant d'Alsace Rieffel NV

Domaine Weinbach Pinot Gris Altenbourg 2010

Meursault Coche Dury 2013

Marcel Lapierre Beaujolais 2011

Domaine Armand Rousseau Clos de la Roche Grand Cru 2010

Restaurant Buerehiesel

1, parc de l'Orangerie

67000 Strasbourg

03 88 45 56 65

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Chateau Fieuzal at Soleil - tres magnifique!!

Assembly

JULY 31 2014 - This was one of those unmissable IWFS functions - Soleil's excellent European style food being paired with Grand Cru Classe Bordeaux wine. And from a vineyard we had visited during our April 2013 IWFS trip to the region. And at the silly price of RM298 - no wonder all the original 40 places got snapped within a day. In the end the number topped out at 58 which raised some concern as to whether the place could cope. It did. Kudos to the staff and Yuhei and Effandie for marshalling their troops and Chef Evert for getting the food out on time and generally to everyone's satisfaction. 

Instruction was for jackets and medallions which I think most remembered - no one got pulled up about it. Though not sure anyone was taking too much notice. Later in the evening, one of the old members started to fondly reminiscing about when there was more fun and less formality - seems all the stiff back and shirt ideas came in when the IWFS KL got formalised, though whether it was a cause or not is difficult to gauge. Ultimately it is people who decide the tone of these things.

All those in favour...

It had been decided to hold an EGM to consider whether Joint Members should be permitted to exist in the KL branch. This had all come about thanks to resolutions being passed at the World Council level to allow premiums to be charged for non members accompanying members to international events. One had been charged for the upcoming Taiwan bunfight and the rumour was of a threat to impose a horrendous premium for the upcoming in Melbourne in 2015. Joint members was perceived as a way around paying such a premium whereby a spouse became a joint member of the branch and thus the IWFS and the premium payable gets marginalized. It also has the effect of instantly doubling membership at half the member price since joint members apparently enjoy all IWFS member rights and privileges, which no-one seems to have properly addressed or considered to my mind. Not that it seems to have mattered. Almost unanimously it got passed. Everyone got a free glass of wine for attending. O how cheaply the vote can sometimes get bought…

Dr Jag and Lenglui - oooh la la...

There was a downside - the meeting was rapidly concluded which forced us all to sit for about twenty minutes to let the kitchen catch up. And with no wine to slake the thirst which had been whetted at the meeting! Everyone was desperate. We had to talk to each other whilst sober. But time passed quickly and out came the same booze. The aperitif wine doubled as the first wine with the meal and went going down a treat. Though a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon, the Fieuzal 2008 Blanc had a veritable burgundian feel about it. It was all toasted toffee apple and Christmas dates in honey and roaring fireplace in winter. Full and rich in the mouth, not quite opulent but aged enough to get a good hint of it. Lush and luscious. 

For the dinner we were being separated into upstairs and downstairs given the 57 that had been crowbarred into the Soleil. The tables all had names associated with Bordeaux. We were upstairs on Table Leognan with a few old friends. Dr Jag came late and ceremonially "broke thirst" and we were off. The perception was that all the senior committee had been designated to sit downstairs with the winemaker in the downstairs and so we in the upstairs got labelled as the outcasts (or upcasts as it subsequently became). So it goes. At least we didn't feel the need to be on best behaviour.

Squid and Shellfish in Escabeche

First out was the Squid and Shellfish in Escabeche which proved a lovely lemongrass and herb bite. The combo of cockles and squid felt a bit squidgy, but the broth was a seaside delight of salt and oil sea breeze scented with chive and rocket. The oyster with a dab of avocado puree worked nicely as a chew and slurp, and what felt like a slap of wasabi in the avocado puree was a nice surprise. The salt naturally made one want to drink (which we did) and the staff more than made up for the enforced delay with their generosity in the pourings. Match-wise the 2008 did well, though lacked that little tinge of acidity that might have set the seafood off a shade better. No complaints, though - a lovely wine paired with a well tasty dish.

Fennel and Apple Salad with Smoked Monkfish and Grapefruit Dressing

Second out was the Smoked Monkfish which, though indeed smoked, felt a shade over-firm and more ceviche in texture than smoked. As if the grapefruit dressing had leached out the remaining oil and diminished the overall balance in the flakes. Simple presentation of the fish slices on the apple salad bed with a dash of oil across the top. Nicely light crunch on the finely chopped apple salad and the fennel lent a liquorice undertone to the ensemble. I tried my neighbours fennel on its own with the wine and got a cute little pinch on the inside of the cheek for my trouble. Must try these things.

The dish was being paired with the 2011 Fieuzal Blanc which was way more lively than its older sibling. Full in the mouth and lively on the throat, this was a bright and breezy drinker made for chugging and cheering rather than the more contemplative 2008. For me, the 2011 would have been better if paired with the first dish to lend the necessary acidity and crispness demanded by shellfish. Equally, the Monkfish was a far better result when paired with the rich and buttery 2008 Blanc. The only reasons I can speculate on having the 2008 first are a) there was a lot more of it and b) better to continue with the same wine as the aperitif rather than go back to it after the 2011. So it goes. Everyone liked the 2011. 

Braised Duck and Crispy Veal Sweetbread with Mushrooms and Puff Pastry

Third out was the Braised Duck and Crispy Veal Sweetbread with Mushrooms and Puff Pastry. This was one of those dishes where the sum was better than the parts, though some of the parts were outstanding. The veal and the puff pastry were saltily magnificent and with the soft oily duck made for a textural breathtaker. Belter of a dish. Seeing the 2005 come out ahead of the younger Fieuzal reds was a bit surprising, though again one must presume there were reasons. The more youthful tannins in the later presentations would certainly have fought with the duck, and the 2005 was sufficiently lean and structured to pair well with pretty much any dish. Not a stellar pairing, but so nice to drink Bordeaux Grand Cru Classe wine here in KL. As said, lean and structured but with fair fruit and silky finish - life is good, man. 

left to right: IWFS KL President Dr Rajan, Chateau Fieuzal winemaker Stephen Carrier and
IWFS KL Secretary Wong Yin-How

Around this point, Yin How brought winemaker Stephen Carrier upstairs to say hello. Stephen looked different from the man I remember from our visit to Chateau Fieuzal in April 2013. Seemed like he had put on some weight, somehow got grey hair, and came across as less ebullient and lively. Though maybe he was just jetlagged. Certainly at a subsequent Chateau Fieuzal dinner at the Ribs a couple of days later, he was more the man I remember. The added weight seems to suit him - makes him look more the archetypal burly French winemaker and bon viveur and son of the soil. Champagne soil, too.

Lamb Eye of Short Loin with Pistachio Crumble, Vegetable Ratatouille and Eggplant Puree

The 2009 and 2010 came out together to pair with the choices of main dishes. I had the lamb whilst Lenglui had the beef. The lamb medallions were nicely presented on the plate, but texturally was a bit overfirm and somewhat dry to my taste. Other members asserted that their lamb was as tender as a teenage dream. Maybe mine had been waiting a bit too long somewhere. Maybe I am more used to lamb on the rack rather than the loin. The combo with the pistachio and puree was a cracker of nut crunch and light cream though I got a hint of red pepper and capsicum which did its usual repeat business. 

Pan Seared Black Angus Beef Tenderloin with Glazed Vegetables and Sarawak Pepper Sauce

Had a taste of the beef which was also firm, though more tender than my lamb. Interesting jus with the Sarawak pepper lending a sweet tea taste to the meat that complemented rather than overpowered. Very nice. Didn't get to try the fish. 

Serena Hiu and YC Yap

The wines were complete opposites in the way they presented themselves. The 2009 was massive fruit and big tannins though with enough alcohol to balance them out. This was a real Bordeaux, bold and sassy and well in your face. The 2010 was way more restrained and quite austere, with thinnish fruit and more elegance in its structure though the tannins were hugely prominent. Clearly being drunk far ahead of its time, though not sure how much time will be available. 

Paul and Ria Thomas

Whilst the brassy 2009 proved the crowd favourite, the better food red wine on the night was the 2005. It was classic with the beef and cut the firm lamb proteins and fats well enough to make for a pleasant pairing. Only downside was that the later red servings felt a tad stingy. Not so much that it made a difference - still got that muzzy morning after head that makes you want to bang it on the desk to clear the fog and wake up the brain.  Maybe it is a perspective thing that changes as one gets more inebriated - the volumes are actually the same, just that they feel less. But the white certainly felt more generous in the pourings.

Dr Stephen Hall, Dr Lee Su Kim and Ria Thomas

With only dessert to come, Lenglui and I decided to head downstairs to say hello to friends. Didn't get too far because their mains were just coming to the tables. Guess the kitchen had staggered the preparation so that upstairs got theirs together and downstairs had a bit more of a wait. Made sense. Good pragmatic way to cope with large numbers. Kudos. Our hails and hellos got cut short. 

Repairing back upstairs, we got greeted with demands for songs to be sung, so I was able to get my Tom Jones on. It's a great song to get people raucous and in a rabble rousing mood. Lenglui did her rapturously received New York New York and a request for me to do Proud Mary which for some reason proved a total home run. Final choice of YMCA was also a result, though it seemed a bit of an odd choice for IWFS members to request. There you go - never really know people, do we?

Dark Chocolate Cremeux with Caramel Banana Ice Cream

Dessert was a lovely combo of rich and firm Chocolate and the match with the Banana Ice Cream ended the night on a cool creamy chocolate note. The berries gave a rasping acid burn on the tongue which the ice cream cooled and the chocolate soothed. Perfecto. 

In all, it was a darn good drink we all had. As said, quite generous with the white, the red felt a teeny bit stingy, though not so as one could complain. Not at these prices. Great kudos to both restaurant and organiser Yin How. Excellent evening indeed. 

The Menu

First Course

Squid and Shellfish in Escabeche

2008 Fieuzal Blanc

Second Course

Fennel and Apple Salad with Smoked Monkfish and Grapefruit Dressing

2011 Fieuzal Blanc

Third Course

Braised Duck and Crispy Veal  Sweetbread with Mushrooms and Puff Pastry

2005 Fieuzal Rouge

Main Course

Pan fried Atlantic Cod with Zucchini and Mussels in Saffron Broth

OR

Lamb Eye of Short Loin with Pistachio Crumble, Vegetable Ratatouille and Eggplant Puree

OR

Pan Seared Black Angus Beef Tenderloin with Glazed Vegetables and Sarawak Pepper Sauce

2009 Fieuzal Rouge

2010 Fieuzal Rouge

Dessert

Dark Chocolate Cremeux with Caramel Banana Ice Cream

The Wines (Makers Notes)

2008 Fieuzal Blanc 

Straw-green with golden highlights. Rich apricot and peach aromas are complemented by sweet caramel and waxy nuances. Rich and plump in the mouth, with flavors of caramel-coated candy apple, ripe tropical fruits and a semillon-typical waxy quality. This round, full-bodied wine leaves a downright glycerol mouthfeel and enticing lingering notes of citrus fruits and herbs. (Tanzer 88-91, Parker 90)

2011 Fieuzal Blanc 

Bright, pale straw.  Complex aromas of white peach, vanilla and white flowers on the enticing nose.  Bright and fresh on the palate, with juicy acidity lifting the ripe citrus and mineral flavors.  The finish is long and pure, with rising but noble tannins.  A very refined white wine. (Tanzer 90-93, Parker 89)

2005 Fieuzal Rouge 

Smoke, black truffles, crushed rock, and leafy notes combined with earth, fresh mushrooms, and cassis result in a complex set of aromatics for the dark ruby/purple-colored 2005 Fieuzal. Medium-bodied with crisp acidity and high tannin, this serious wine is closed, but promising. (Tanzer 88, Parker 90)

2009 Fieuzal Rouge 

A terrific, classic Graves with notes of subtle smoke, black raspberries, black currants, graphite and unsmoked cigar tobacco, this full-bodied, deep, concentrated de Fieuzal is far more generous and deep than most vintages of the past. There is also a wonderful freshness and length to this somewhat oversized de Fieuzal while it still maintains its elegance and class. (Tanzer 92, Parker 92)

2010 Fieuzal Rouge 

Good deep ruby-red.  Dark berries and spicy, cedary oak dominate the nose.  Supple and broad but a bit less creamy in the early going than is normal for this wine.  Sexy, soil-driven flavors of plum, tobacco, cigar box and spices show good energy.  Firm tannins clamp down on the finish without introducing any dryness.  A rather classically styled Fieuzal with good mid-term aging potential. (Tanzer 91, Parker 90)