The Italian Tryst Day Four - Wednesday 31st October 2018

The Italian Tryst - October and November 2018

Write up of a seven day bus trip across Northern Italy by me and some of my Malaysian Foodie and Winey friends, taking in Lake Como, Bolgheri, Alba and Milan. Dear Leader said we were a Tryst of pilgrims on another wine and restaurant and food adventure, so we became Trystians. Photos mostly by me, though some filched from the Facebook pages of Chan May Peng, Wong Yin-How and David Teh.  

Day Four - Wednesday 31st October 2018 - Bolgheri - Serravale Designer Outlet - Fontanafredda Estate in Alba - Guido Restaurant

Bolgheri

We woke up to a somewhat patchy and overcast sky and decided to pack everything ahead of our off to enjoy a leisurely breakfast with those Trystians of similar mind. This we did, following a brisk and somewhat cramped shower and were ready to roll with a good forty minutes before take off. As the day was starting quite cool, we boiled up some water (the room had a kettle - very civilised) and broke open some Cafe 21 instant coffee to kickstart the day. 

The Relais Sant' Elena

We made our way to breakfast and my second kickstart morning espresso and latte coffee. Decided to go with the fruits which were top end and some scrambled eggs and potato for a bit of carbo in the system. Looked like it could be a cold one today. Bit of chatting with the Trystians, comparing notes on the rooms and the trip to date. All seemed very happy and chipper and looking forward to the truffles in Alba. Trystian David was again trying to palm off his Chili sauce on all fellow Trystians and extolling the virtues of having chili sauce with the excellent eggs. I stole half a spoonful and it did go extremely well. He seemed happy - he had found a convert. On half a spoon? Naaaaaaahhhh….

Up against the wall...

Our room was quite close to where the bus would park for loading so we went back to ablute and laze ahead of the upload. The sky had brightened somewhat and the Trystians were all standing on time as Marco the Bus rolled up (somewhat late as I recall; vague memory of Dear Leader sharing a story about Marco whingeing at our unearthly morning call of 9.30am and he would come at 9.45 - he arrived at 10am) and we lugged or rolled our cases up for him to huff and puff and jigsaw them into the bus hold. Once done, we were off and on our way - though not before another Marco ooops as he somewhere figured he had taken a wrong turn. Of course.

Lenglui selecting breakfast at Relais Sant' Elena

It had been earlier decided that Portofino and Ligure were no longer possible as destinations on this trip - some inclement and unnatural weather had been brutal and the word from Marco was that the ferries had stopped running due to the damage done by the storms. We actually passed the turnoff to the area and it all looked pretty grey and grim in the distance. So it was determined that time would instead be spent at the Serravalle Designer Outlet which conveniently was on the main road to Alba. Well, and okay, it seemed a fair way to spend the time, which totally delighted half the bus and produced some loud and enthusiastic chatter.  Unfortunately, the skies did not agree and it was again pelting down with rain when Marco parked up in a car park near one of the entrances. 

"You first..."  "No, You first..."  "No, YOU first..."  "Okay..."

View from Breakfast

Serravale Designer Outlet

It was decided to do lunch first and we had each been given some special lunch vouchers for use at a particular outlet whose name escapes me at this time. We were all pretty sodden by the time we reached it and dripped our way as directed by some bearded waiter who basically told us what to order. In retrospect it was a mistake to eat so early after breakfast but the Lenglui seemed determined and so we ordered a salad to share and a pizza each. Not an enjoyable experience - it was all plastic and noise and the food was terrifically average. Half of it was left uneaten by both of us and the Euro38 for the entire experience seemed not good value - though it seemed immensely popular with the young people who all seemed to have sufficient disposable income to afford a place like this. I must be getting old. Next time I will put my foot down; I will eat when my belly says so. 

Lunch at Serravalle. Pretty. Ordinary. Never. Again.

Lenglui and I parted company for our own shopping experiences. My tatty portable umbrella came through to good rescue from the incessant rain as I wandered around the avenues lined with all these big name brands. It is definitely NOT a pleasant experience to do this place in the rain; there is little in the way of overhead cover from the elements. I just kept on wandering around window shopping and looking for some respite from the windswept wet. I walked pretty much around the whole complex in the two hours time that we had. My feet got very cold toward the end - it refused to stop raining until we had all boarded the bus and headed on to Alba. Although boarding the bus took some time - Marco seemed to have disappeared and a few of us were standing around in the rain. Then as if by magic, the bus door opened as a yawning Marco hauled himself awake and falumphed into the driver's seat. Well, at least one mystery had been cleared up - he did sleep on the bus. Slowly all the others arrived and clambered aboard, and all who had made purchases were excited to show them off and compare. I had bought a pair of black slip on shoes at less 60% as an alternative to wearing my boots for going to lunch and dinner. Euro40 was a very fair price for the Geox (my favourite shoe brand next to Clarks) and they would quickly become total replacements for my soon to be doomed boots. Lenglui was most impressed. 

Fontanafredda Estate in Alba

Don't remember much about the drive into Alba, save that Marco seemed to be in the process of doing another oops just as we were arriving. But it turned out not to be so on this occasion because suddenly we saw the logo of the winery on the wall to our left and in we turned. The Fontanafredda Winery doubles as a hotel resort with forest walks and a wine and food store and two restaurants. Accommodation is split across two separate wings each with its own breakfast bar. Marco parked near where most of us would be staying and we unloaded and scrambled to the small reception area to fight for our keys. Our room was at the end of the corridor on the ground level so we trundled the route and tumbled into the reasonably sized room. Again, a lovely bed, all large and bouncing, and those pipes in the bathroom to dry our soon to be washed clothes. This would be our home for three nights so we figured wash everything and pack it away for our extended stay in Milan. 

The Fontanafredda website is quite a useful source of information, For example, it shares that the Langhe is an "historic region of Piedmont, positioned between 450 and 800 meters above sea level, in an area that lies between the Tanaro and Bormida rivers, between the provinces of Cuneo and Asti. This land is famous all around the world, not only for its wealth of traditions and typical local products, but also for its rolling landscapes which have been immortalized and celebrated by the words of writers such as Pavese and Fenoglio. Moreover, this is the homeland of Barolo, of the White Truffle of Alba and of the Tonda Gentile hazelnut, just to name a few of the many delicacies of this land. In 2014 the Langhe, Roero and Monferrato areas became the 50th Italian site to be included in the UNESCO World Heritage List. The very first for viticulture-designate agricultural landscapes." 

The website also shares that in 1858 the Fontanafredda estate was bought by Vittorio Emanuele II as a gift to his mistress Rosa Vercellana, also known as "La bela Rosin". As a result it is able to say that "Like all things that are beautiful, even Fontanafredda was born from a love story: the one between King Vittorio Emanuele II and the “Bela Rosin.” Very lyrical , no? Si.

Later, it was handed down to their children, Maria Vittoria and Emanuele Alberto, Count of Mirafiori and Fontanafredda. In 1866 the king bought the first vineyard of Barolo, which became the reason for the name “Tenimenti di Barolo e Fontanafredda” being used. 

Wine-making in the cellars of Fontanafredda began in 1870 and in 1878 Count Emanuele Alberto of Mirafiori begins his wine adventure, with over 300 hectares (741 acres) cultivated directly by salaried, specialized workers (a unique thing at the time). He turned Fontanafredda into an actual village with a church and a school and was succeeded by his second-born Gastone in 1894.

Negatively impacted by Phylloxera in 1928 and the Great Depression of 1929, the estate and the cellar were sold to Monte dei Paschi di Siena Bank for 1,050,500 lire, whereas the brand was sold to the Gancia family for 100,000 lire. However, somehow in 2009, and after 70 years, the website proudly proclaims that "Fontanafredda is once again in the hands of Piedmont natives" without quite explaining who or how. In 2017 Fontanafredda was named “European Winery of the Year” by the Wine Enthusiast magazine.

Guido Restaurant

Dinner for the day was to be at the One Star Michelin Guido Restaurant, one of the winery restaurants conveniently located in the building next to our lodgings. Michelin notes it as using "top quality ingredients, dishes with distinct flavours are carefully prepared to a consistently high standard." 

Trystians Pitt Lee, Wen Dee and Lenglui

Some more Michelin - "In the splendid setting of the 19C Villa Fontanafredda, where the love affair between Victor Emmanuel II and Rosa Vercellana blossomed, Guido continues to offer excellent Piedmontese cuisine, making this restaurant a must for fans of the region's gastronomy. The elegant dining rooms are a harmonious combination of traditional decor and modern style. More traditional cuisine is served in the convivial setting of the new Taverna del Re." Other attractions include a particularly interesting wine list, meals outside, air conditioning, private dining rooms and an enclosed car park. 

Trystian Tony making friends with the refill ladies

Tonight would be a winemaker's dinner with wines being supplied by winemaker Danilo Nada of the family owned and operated Nada Fiorenzo winery. Naturally it was raining so coats and umbrellas over the jackets and frocks were essential. Entering the restaurant, we were hit with a blast of stuffy warm air and a cold glass of fizz. Whether this was intentional was not discovered, but after fifteen minutes in this hothouse I found myself heading outside and desperately sucking in the cool fresh and somewhat damp air to clear the head. I had forgotten stuffy - that dull humid airless muzz clogging up the head and sinuses. Conjured childhood memories of winters and shuttered windows and doors battened with old cloth and newspapers against the cold and rain and snow and sat in front of coal fires heating and sucking the air out of the room. Though no one else seemed to be bothered by the stuffy air - must be a British thing. 

Trystians May and Dr Rajan sandwiching winemaker Danilo Fiorenzo

All the following in quotes come from the Nada Fiorenzo website:

Barbaresco is (since 1980) a DOCG region in the Langa hills in North Italy where the nebbiolo varietal dominates and the vineyards produce wines of "aromatic complexity, tannic potency and great longevity" and "with a personality all of its own, huge elegance and excellent tannic texture".

Delightful table setting

Seems Barbaresco is known as the Queen of wines in contrast to Barolo which is known as "The King". Light ruby red in colour, aeration in the glass reveals "intense and complex nuances" of "Red berry fruits, blossom, tobacco, mint, eucalyptus, liquorice – a succession of scents that eloquently express the grape variety, the vineyard of origin and the ageing techniques adopted." 

"Barbaresco is characterised by notable intensity and length, pronounced tannic weave, good acidity and an alcohol content that adds warmth and softness. In short, a combination of caressing, velvety, lingering flavours."

Nada Fiorenzo is presently fourth generation - great grandfather Carlo bought the grape farm in 1921 and produced wine, grandfather Fiorenzo only sold grapes, father Bruno returned to winemaking and bottling and Danilo is continuing the tradition. The winery's philosophy is "To capture the purity of the scents and flavours of this bountiful land of ours in a glass bottle." This they do through loving both the land and the vines - natural soil nutrition, no herbicides, manual harvesting and soft pressing being among the activities employed in the processes. The Barbaresco enjoys two years in barrel and then a few months in bottle. 

Chef Ugo serving up the Agnolotti (pic by May Peng)

We were having our fizz with some tasty eatables in a kind of drawing room with high tables for the tidbits and parking glasses expectantly waiting for the nice young lady with the bottle to come to our rescues. There were some pictures on the walls containing historical bits about the estate. Winemaker Danilo was affably doing the room and schmoozing with everyone, who were all looking quite spiffy in their jackets and ensembles (though I recall some Trystians removing a layer or two to combat the warmth). After some genial chitchat over flutes of lovely fizz we settled in to our chairs in the dining room. We sat ourselves with the Trystians Jaya, and Doctors Rajan and Bachan and their respective squeezes and got down to some serious Michelin star business. 

The egg, cream and truffles - sublime

The food was very tasty indeed - though the aperitif snacks were a bit full and firm on the finish which necessited some care so as not to bloat out ahead of the dinner. The first course was delightful - perfectly poached egg on cold Parmeggiano cream and generous shavings of the white truffle. Eating this probably day fresh and in its native habitat opens up a whole new experience and I can now understand the slavish mouthwaterings and salivations by the enlightened over eating the things. Got earth, gooey egg yolk and the contrast of warm egg and cold cream to fuse the whole into something sublime. Absolute Magnifico. The Agnolotti visually reminded of the Ravioli we got in Heinz tins when I was a kid but these puppies were packed with seasoned veal and pork. Perhaps a shade dry on the tongue, the pasta was superb and was a great match for the first red of the evening. Similarly, I found the veal somewhat on the dry and fibrous side and a bit difficult to process; equally the polenta didn't help to liquify things - not that it was bad, just not to my taste. Though May says hers was tender and sweet. There you go - maybe I had the end piece. 

The very tasty Agnolotti

The Barbaresco wines were all quite similar in texture and, for me, taste. With the passage of time, I cannot recall differences in the wines across the dinner. All were very good, all were matching well with the food, and all went into the blissful oblivion that we know as getting nicely squiffed. I recall the starting fizz as being crisp and biting and nicely searing and scratching the back of the throat with its bubbling tickle, and the ending Barolo grappa as fire in the throat and belly. There was also a bottle of something dark and sherry brandy like called "La Chimera" which fired things up nicely with the dessert. But the Barbaresco - not really. Vague memories of subtle textural differences and nuances across the altitudes, but none that mark the things as wholly unforgettable. Sorry…  maybe have to have another bottle or four in less stuffy conditions. Perhaps a visit to the vineyard next time? Bolehkah? 

My underwhelming fibrous veal

May Peng in her FB post says "We had the pleasure of having the company of 4th generation winemaker, Danillo Nada of Nada Fiorenzo, for dinner tonight at 1* Guido, located in the Fontana Fredda Estate. Simple delicious Italian fayre, based on seasonal ingredients and steeped in the tradition of the Langhe region, was what Chef Ugo and his brother offered. Food was paired with Barbaresco wines made from Nebbiolo, and each of the 4 vintages, (2013, 2012, 2008, 2007) was quite different, expressing the different climate conditions of the vintage. Excellent wines overall!"

The moment when Trystian Yasu's head fuses to his glass - total illumination

Trystian David had been keen for the group to let rip with a "Yam Seng" pretty much since the start of the trip, figuring that the only possible place for it would be here. Reason being, we had the place to ourselves and no one else would be irritated by the immense breach of civilised decorum generated by the loud cheer. I felt it necessary to explain to our host the cultural context of the Yam Seng and proceeded to create a less virulent version - a soft spoken Yam Seng. This was followed by the more traditional full throated gut piercing raise the rooftop style, and then we all sat back down to Mossie the booze. 

We finished the evening with some wicked aged Parmiggiano and desserts and then it was back to the room and crash down for the night. Switch on the TV and numb down to sleep. Never fails. 

Danilo and Trystian May

Ristorante Guido

Fontanafredda Estate

Via Alba 15

12050 Serralunga D'Alba

Phone : +390173626162

Email : info@guidoristorante.it

Website: : http://www.guidoristorante.it

Meal prices : Menu 75/100 € - Carte 60/90 €

Dinner only

OPENING HOURS

Closing: monday, sunday dinner

Menu

A selection of aperitif for pre dinner

Baked saffron risotto

Poached egg on Parmiggiano cream with shaved white truffle.

Agnolotti di Lidia

Braised veal on polenta

24 month aged Parmiggiano

Dessert made from Toronne (Italian Nougat)

Italian Meringue

Fontanafredda Mirafiore fizz and Nada Fiorenzo wines for the night

Wines

Mirafiore Alta Langa Blanc de Noir Brut 2014

Nada Fiorenzo Seifile

Nada Fiorenzo Barbaresco Montaribaldi 2013

Nada Fiorenzo Barbaresco Manzola 2012

Nada Fiorenzo Barbaresco Rombone 2008

Nada Fiorenzo Barbaresco Rombone 2007

Castillo Monsanto La Chimera Vinsanto

Fontanafredda Grappa di Barolo Riserva

Nada Fiorenzo Wine Notes (from the Nada Fiorenzo website)

Seifile

The wonderful "La Chimera"

A limited number of bottles that embody the richness and harmony of barbera grapes from very old timeworn vines and the austerity of the nebbiolo grapes from the Rombone vineyard. An inexhaustible source of aromas and flavours that come from afar, waiting to be rediscovered with rich foods, pasta, red meat and cheese. Or, more simply, to be sipped during conversation.

Manzola

Made with the nebbiolo grapes picked in the Manzola vineyard, one of the most historic Barbaresco microzones. Its bright red garnet colour heralds an expansive floral bouquet and a sapid, austere palate. Already elegant when young, it acquires total harmony with age. Following suitable oxygenation, it gives of its best with roast and braised beef and veal, rabbit, lamb, hard cheeses and, aged at least ten years, biscuits and pastries. Local match: “Ravioli del plin al sugo d’arrosto” Filled pasta with roast meat sauce. Altitude 230m

Montaribaldi

Firewater - Barolo Grappa

Made with nebbiolo grapes from the old vines that cling to the highly eroded soil of a steep vineyard in Cascina Quinto, heart of Montaribaldi. A very rich bright garnet red Barbaresco with a vinous nose and a soft, complex palate. Already harmonious when young, it is capable of long aging in the cellar. Like the other Barbarescos, it should be suitably oxygenated before being drunk, ideally with pasta with meat sauce, roast and braised beef and veal, and hard and mature cheeses. Local match: “Coniglio al civet” Rabbit marinated in wine with herbs. Altitude 240m

Rombone

Made with nebbiolo grapes from the oldest vines in the Rombone vineyard. Bright garnet red in colour, our flagship Barbaresco is complex on the nose, full-flavoured and warm on the palate, where the tannins, already elegant when the wine is young, will grow gradually more refined to ensure long, happy ageing. Barbaresco Rombone should also be suitable oxygenated before drinking and goes well with braised and roast beef and veal, stews, game, truffle dishes and mature cheeses. Local match: “Brasato al Barbaresco” Veal braised in Barbaresco. Altitude 260m.

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The Italian Tryst Day Three - Tuesday 30th October 2018

The Italian Tryst - October and November 2018

Write up of a seven day bus trip across Northern Italy by me and some of my Malaysian Foodie and Winey friends, taking in Lake Como, Bolgheri, Alba and Milan. Dear Leader said we were a Tryst of pilgrims on another wine and restaurant and food adventure, so we became Trystians. Photos mostly by me, though some filched from the Facebook pages of Chan May Peng, Wong Yin-How and David Teh.  

Day Three - Tuesday 30th October 2018

Ornellaia - Lunch by the sea at La Perla Del Mare - Dinner at Enoteca Tognoni

May Peng in her Facebook page wrote, "Finally got some sun in Bolgheri, Tuscany. We made the most of the sunny morning romping around the estate, before heading for wine tasting at the famed Ornellaia. Lunch was at a seafood restaurant, La Perla del Mare, on the Mediterranean coast in San Vicenzo." Which feels as good a description of the first half of the day as I could compose. The sun had indeed put its happy hat on and everyone enjoyed the rays as we made our ways to and from Breakfast. 

Though I did find it a bit difficult at first to get around to getting up and out. The rooms at the farm were big and wonderfully stone cool. The main bedroom was large and separate from the in-comparison miniscule reception area which included the attached bathroom and was dominated by a huge wardrobe which took up nearly a quarter of the room. A couple of chairs did the rest of soaking up the space. We left our bags near the door, me unpacking only toiletries and anything needing to be hung. Or thrown over the back of one of the chairs. I find they make for excellent coat hangers and trouser parks. Walking to and from the bathroom on the near freezing cold stone floor for the standard three times a night was delightful on the feet. 

Lenglui in Ornellaia

As said previously, a most excellent bed and heavy insulating covers, so it was a very good sleep indeed. Fell awake at about six, and found that the wifi at this time was pretty good so I caught up with the email and the news whilst the farm slumbered. Some of the news was not so good - seemed one of our intended stops (Portofino) had been hit with massive rains and devastation. We had planned a ferry to get there from Santa Margherita Ligure and the news seemed to be saying that they could not dock at Portofino. Ouch. Was not looking good for a stop there. 

Lenglui started stirring at 7.30 so we gently abluted and wandered down to the main building to breakfast. The sky at this time was showing promising signs of breaking into the blue which did come to pass as we enjoyed some excellent eggs, potato, fruits and cold meats at the table. We were a bit late compared to the others but no matter. We had plenty time. Sat with the Governor and Governess and chatted about the trip so far. The light was good so everyone took various photos of the breakfast and the farm. 

The pathway to the Ornellaia Museum, Bottle Plant and Tasting Rooms

If memory serves, this was the breakfast when Trystian David could no longer contain his ardent fervour for Chili and broke out a big jar of the sacred nectar to share with everyone. And many indeed signed the Trystian pledge for a spoonful of the sauce. But not me. There are many things I can do in the morning, but a whack of Chili sauce is not one of them. I still fail to understand the obsession with Chili that many endure. So it goes. Mine is the morning espresso; without it I will degenerate into a head throbbing mess somewhere close to lunchtime. Caffeine addiction is a terrible thing. 

Water Fountains in the Museum

Back to the room to do some throne business then quickly out to all gather for a 10am Marco the Bus off to the nearby Ornellaia winery. This was somewhat of a pilgrimage for the Lenglui and I. Ornellaia is one of the so called "Super Tuscans" and has been a favourite tipple of ours through the years. We got turned on to their entry wine "Le Volte" about ten years back and I would stack up whenever it was on special at either the Bacchus in Isetan or from Dear Leader at his annual Vintry sales across the Januaries. I had occasionally sipped the second wine "Le Serre Nuove" over the years - once on a post cruise trip around the Amalfi coast and more recently having bought at the Vintry Januaries. We also took the opportunity to taste some past vintages of the first wine at an Ornellaia wine dinner here in KL at Graze at the KL Hilton a couple of years back. A most enjoyable evening, though the wines were desperately young. I made friends with the waiter and whacked the wonderful Serre Nuove, the shining star of the night. 

Those of us expecting another Marco Oops were not disappointed as he made yet another stunning backward reverse for a 180 degree three pointer to head us in the presumably correct direction of the winery. The passing countryside was pretty - slopes and fields laden with vines and poplar trees and dotted with farms glinted in the morning sun. Though somewhat less rolling and flatter than my memories of Tuscany. So it goes. 

Trystians Pitt Lee and David

After a short drive Marco pulled up to make a sharp turn left and through some hugely narrow gates and parked up in the spacious entrance area. I must say that even though I give him stick for his oopses, his driving and maneuvering out of tight spots were top class. I only recall one slight scrape on his off side throughout the whole trip. And there were some darn tight passages and entrances along the seven days. We were to be joined by our hostess (whose name i forget though I recall it was somewhat Scandinavian?) who directed Marco to slowly drive along some flat vine-laden roads to the central exhibition building further inland from the gate. A short walk along a green and pleasant walkway led everyone to the main building. This was to prove both a museum and showcase which ran alongside the wine making and bottling operations. There were lots of big double magnums on display in the reception area, which got photographed all ends up by the Trystians. I went straight to the toilet. Our guide talked about the history of the winery and its support through the years for the arts.  Everyone just kept snapping with their phones. Welcome to the new world. 

Bottling the good stuff

Wikipedia says "Ornellaia is an Italian wine producer in the DOC Bolgheri in Toscana, known as a producer of Super Tuscan wine. Ornellaia is considered one of Italy's leading Bordeaux-style red wines. 

Lady Trystians demand "Where's the good stuff?"

Established by Marchese Lodovico Antinori of the Antinori family, Ornellaia is located on the Tuscan Coast, overlooking the Tyrrhenian Sea, in the section of the Northern Maremma between Livorno and the island of Elba. The 99 hectares of vineyards extend over two adjacent areas that are separated by Bolgheri's famed Cypress Avenue and divided into 50 parcels planted to seven varietials: Cabernet Sauvignon (38 hectares), Cabernet Franc (12 hectares), Merlot (38 hectares), Petit Verdot (7 hectares), and varieties Sauvignon blanc (2,5 ha), Viognier (0.5 ha) and Petit Manseng (1 ha)."

"Here's the good stuff!! Locked away!!" Naturally...

Wikipedia also notes that "Robert Mondavi Winery took a minority interest in the estate in November 1999, and were full owners by 2002, while initiating a partnership with the Frescobaldi family. In April 2005, Frescobaldi bought the remaining 50% shares of Ornellaia from Constellation Brands after their acquisition of Mondavi holdings, coming to own the whole estate. Axel Heinz is the current winemaker with Michel Rolland, involved with the estate since its beginning, retained as consultant oenologist."

Pre tasting explanation

After the reception, we were taken up some metal stairway to view the bottling area from an elevated standpoint and walkway. I seem to recall being advised not to take photos of the employees; something about EU rules I think. Seeing that no one else seemed to be taking any notice of this, I sneakily snapped a couple of surreptitious shots of the Viniferous Workerous species in their native environment. 

Our Ornellaia guide with Dear Trystian Leader Yin-How

We were then led to a glass door with secret keypad affair and into the impressive darkened cellar where lots of the very good stuff seemed to have been stored. And in various sized bottles - loads of Methuselahs, couple of Balthazars and loads of Magnum. And all behind locked doors - look see only. It was not really good enough light for photos so the Trystians quickly did the obligatory snaps before exiting and following the guide up to the expansive and brilliantly day-lit tasting area. Here, two long tables had been set with four glasses for the wines, one extra for water, a small spit bucket, and a notebook for, er, notes for each Trystian. It was a monument to glass and steel, with huge windows opening up the landscape. And the rain - it had restarted. Though it would prove short lived. We all parked ourselves at the tables as we felt fit and comfortable given the Feng Shui of the vista and the location of the booze and continued snapping with our phones. Call me old fashioned, but I prefer my 15 year old Sony powered by its two rechargeable AA batteries. Photo quality beats the phone and the lens gets great colours. 

Trystian May pouring the good stuff for Trystian Chris whilst Trystian Sanjeev gazes enviously

We would be tasting four wines - 2016 Poggio Alle Gazze dell' Ornellaia, a 2016 Le Volte, a 2016 Serre Nuove and a 2015 Ornellaia. The Poggio was a blend of 80% SAUVIGNON BLANC, 10% VIOGNIER and 10% VERMENTINO, the Ornellaia tasting notes say that Poggio alle Gazze dell’Ornellaia "owes its elegant Mediterranean style to the Estate’s unique microclimate. This gift of nature allows Poggio alle Gazze dell’Ornellaia, with its predominance of Sauvignon Blanc, to display a firm structure and ripe fruit while maintaining great finesse."

Trystian Brian waiting for more white; Trystian Lenglui not so impressed

For the 2016 vintage (asserted to have been "a classic Bolgheri wine making year"), "the Estate’s proximity to the sea brought fresh moist wind with a remarkable night-time temperature change, allowing the vines to recover from the daytime heat and preserve their scents and zesty acidity, despite high sugar levels. The Sauvignon and Viognier harvests took place in the last week of August, while the Vermentino was harvested in the second half of September after some welcome rainfalls." Elsewhere, winemaker Axel Heinz noted the pale yellow Poggio alle Gazze "has a classic nose where the scents of a typical mature Sauvignon, grapefruit, passion fruit and white peach, all come through. The palate is rich and full-bodied with notes of ripe yellow fruits and honey, interwoven with a well-balanced acidity. The long finish lingers with flavours of white flowers and fresh almonds.”

Trystian Amret and Trystian Bachan

I found it…  okay, I suppose. Yes nuts, yes fruits, but overall missing the zing of the New Zealand grapefruit and grass I am used to. Clean and lean, pleasant to chug and fair balance, it felt like it needed some food to set something off. Be good to try it in a restaurant setting. 

Trystians Kalsom and Jeremy waiting for the good stuff

The other three wines got subsequently and quite quickly poured into the glasses, with Trystian May helping with the honours. As said, all of them desperately young. The Le Volte (WS 92, JS 92) was a good easy drinking red, which the webbie says "combines the Mediterranean expression of opulence and generosity with structure and complexity". A blend of Merlot, Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon, winemaker Axel asserts it as "one of the purest expressions of Le Volte dell’Ornellaia, combining perfectly ripe yet vibrant fruit with a silky and generous texture underlined by a fresh and lively acidity." Would have been perfect with some of that Ragout we had the previous night; tomato and beef and garlic facing down the fruit and firm tannins. 

Trystian Joe angling for a photo

For the Le Serre Nuove (WA 94 pts), the grapes come primarily from the Estate’s younger vineyards though "made with the same passion and attention to detail as Ornellaia". A blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc & Petit Verdot, the web notes say Le Serre Nuove is "a true second vin… (which) combines generosity and depth of flavour with an engaging and vibrant personality."

Fermented for two weeks in steel before maceration (12 - 15 days) and malolactic fermentation ultimately completed in 25/75 new/old barrels. 12 month in barrel before being assembled and returned to barrel for 3 more months. Sim months in the bottle prior to release. Winemaker Axel says the dark wine is "shows a charming nose of perfectly ripe red fruit and spices. The palate is rich and well-rounded with beautiful velvety-textured tannins that coat the palate. A wine that combines immediate pleasure and great ageing capacity”. 

Naturally a shade more austere than its kid brother, Le Serre was firm, tending toward sleek, throat drying tannins, perhaps a shade grapey and, for me, (as memory serves) a little hint of stalky green. Didn't quite enjoy it as much as I thought I would - ah, those darned expectations of mine! But one to perhaps return to as and when the occasion arose. Considered to buy, but at Euro40 we pay about the same price in Malaysia at the Januaries so no real advantage. 

Trystian May angling for a similar photo

The 2015 Ornellaia "Il Carisma"  (WS 97, JS 98) is a BOLGHERI DOC SUPERIORE cuvée of 53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot, 17% Cabernet Franc and 7% Petit Verdot. It was a "textbook" vintage (mild rainy winter, early April buds, dry sunny spring, scorching summer, cool autumn rains) allowing for perfect timings for harvesting. Varietals got vinified separately with two week steel tank fermentation, 10 to 15 day maceration, and malolactics in 70%/30% new/once used oak barrels for 18 months (though assembled after 12 months and returned to the barriques). Bottle aged 12 months before release. 

Winemaker Axel says that 2015 "is certainly one of the great Ornellaia vintages. The usual intense colour indicates a wine of great texture and intensity, followed by a fruity scent that is ripe and fresh at the same time, emphasized by classic balsamic and spicy hints. On the palate it is rich, dense, and full-bodied, with an exceptional tannic texture, dense and velvety, of great refinement, that extends throughout the mouth. The long finish concludes with a feeling of firmness and finely spiced hints." Further, ‘Like people of great ‘Carisma’ (Charisma), wines of great vintages know how to impose themselves naturally, without force, their balance allowing them to shine without having to flaunt themselves. The 2015 vintage perfectly expresses this behavioural trait."

The Good Stuff. In about ten to twenty years...

Taste-wise, whilst it may indeed have vinous charisma, for me it did not fully engage, and will need at least ten years to become half drinkable and assert its gravitas. As Lenglui reminds, she probably does not have such a time frame, so we passed on any purchase. Equally, at about Euro 180 a hit, we get the same price in KL for a drinkable vintage and not need to have to pay for years of storage and TLC. We buy to drink. And we couldn't really drink the 2015 - at least not in 2018. I mean, we do whack it down, because…   well, in truth I whack it down because I can and I won't probably get another chance at wines like this anywhere down the near future line. And I am in Ornellaia, birthplace of wonderful memories of chugging its wines with the Lenglui across the years and places. And we are together making another one. Cheers indeed. 

(sings) Can you taste with all the colours of the wine...

Appearing somewhat similar to the Mouton Rothschild labels, the Ornellaia winery has in recent years taken to engage someone from the arts world to create a work of art for the vintage. 2015 saw South African artist William Kentridge has been chosen to interpret the character “Il Carisma” (Charisma) of the Ornellaia 2015 vintage. This also involves customising a limited series of large bottle format offerings and a label that expresses the vintage character (ie Charisma) which gets inserted in each Ornellaia 6 x 750ml case and on all Magnums. 

Some of the VERY good stuff

There was some interest in a special wine from the previous year, a single varietal expression of Cabernet Franc about which some of the Trystians appeared quite knowledgeable and pleading for a taste or a takeaway. There was little joy in this respect from our host - it was only apparently available to the highly selected few and a Tryst of Malaysians did not qualify. I can understand that. Whether as a result, I don't think anyone bought much of the other wines. 

Though at the retail outlet near the exit, a wave of purchasing was unleashed as the Trystians snapped up Ornellaia oil and other sorts of foodie adds and nibbles. We bought some olive oil for Xmas gifts and a few other bits. Quite good fun watching everyone scrabbling for the wares. Then it was back on the bus for a thirty minute drive to lunch. 

Lunch by the sea at La Perla Del Mare 

La Perla del Mare. Blue skies on the Mediterranean coast

We were originally scheduled for lunch at a restaurant name of La Pineta, an apparent favourite of Trystian May. However, we just missed its last serving for the season so Dear Leader booked us for lunch at a place name of La Perla Del Mare - the Pearl of the Sea. Which would prove about a forty minute drive from Ornellaia (thanks in part to another Marco ooops). 

It is listed in the Michelin Guide which shares that the "occasional creative touch is evident in the fish and seafood dishes served in this welcoming Mediterranean-style restaurant with an attractive outdoor terrace. The restaurant stands right on the beach!" 

Interior of La Perla Del Mare

The website says that La Perla Del Mare's philosophy "is to make the most of the relationship with the territory with a pinch of creativity…." and to "enhance our local dishes by cooking each of them upon request, relying especially on seasonal produce."

Amuse bouche of fried anchovy and pizza dough filled with anchovy ricotta

Chef is Deborah Corsi, who likes to indulge the artistic side of her nature - as she says "My never ending will to experiment and the thrill of the creative effort, due to my artistic vein, challenge me to revisit the classic dishes of the gastronomy of our region and to conceive colorful, funny dishes that satisfy both sight and taste, with a certain penchant for the oily fish of our sea."

Grilled Octopus, buffalo mozzarella and chickpea puree

And it works. The dishes were vibrant, visual, and full of huge taste. May Peng writes "Our favourite restaurant La Pineta was closed for the season so we tried this highly recommended seafood restaurant. Certainly did not disappoint, the grilled octopus was earthy and tasty. Seafood risotto with lashings of local sea urchin and fresh cuttlefish and mussels was divine and tasted simply of the sea. Monkfish main showed why this fish is said to mimic the texture of lobster and such a prized fish in this region.

The seafood risotto with sea urchin - molte bene!

"The wines were chosen for their freshness and the Schiopetto Sauvignon Blanc was excellent: crisp and redolent of gooseberries, Yuzu citrus and lime blossom. Grattamaco was typical Bolgheri, succulent, suffused with dark fruits and generous."

Monkfish Roulade

To which I would add that the rain stopped as soon as we got off the bus at the entrance and the sun blazed away through lunch and beyond and only started up again as we started off back to the Relais Sant Elena. It was bright and breezy both outside and inside La Perla, and feeling more like being on the deck of a yacht, whilst the dishes were pretty and plentiful and bursting with taste and verve. The amuse bouche was dangerous in that it was hugely amusing and well in line to fill the belly well before the rest of the meal - massively more-ish. The Octopus with chickpea melded gunk and chewy tentacle to perfection, the Monkfish was light and perfectly done and the Risotto was excellent. But the Black Pearl was magical - a crisp ball of chocolate surrounding sinfully wicked ice cream sitting in a sea of sweet vanilla sauce and crunchy raspberry crumble. Captain Jack Sparrow would have swapped his ship for this one - absolute belter. 

The Black Pearl Dessert - wicked sinful taste

The wines were all new and all (I think) from the Bolgheri region and very well matching with the seafood offerings of the place. The fizz was firm and full and quite masculine in its bold no-nonsense character - perfect foil for the salt of the anchovy drenched pizza dough - whilst the Donnaolympia was more delicate and fragrant and made for a good vinous contrast. It also let the Octopus sing nicely whilst slaking the throat with a silky finish. The Collio SB was somewhat firmer in texture and bolder in flavour, and stood up well to the Risotto with its zingy lemon/yuzu bite. The Bolgheri Rosso was…  can't really remember, but I recall everyone seemed to be joyfully sucking it down and clamouring for refills. It did not overpower the Monkfish or the Risotto - a good, light, fruity, well balanced non-obtrusive red that helped the food on its way to gastronomic oblivion. Everyone clearly had a wonderful time. 

Trystian Yin-How with Chef Deborah Corsi

Additional Highlights of the lunch - the restaurant showed off a little leather pouch of Chili powders, which drew loud oohs and ahhs from the Trystians. They were tiny little glass phials filled with the magic powder and showcased in a leather wallet and numbered from one to seventeen, presumably to denote their potency. Naturally, research demanded a pinch of each of the powders to assess whether it could pass the Malaysian test. I think it did - those whose craving for some chili seemed hugely replete and satisfied. I saw it was manufactured in Bolgheri town - not sure if anyone went so far as to buy a set. 

Trystian Brian playing fetch with his new friend on the beach

Not being a chili powder aficionado, I wandered out onto the restaurant verandah to enjoy the surf and the sun. Some of us went down onto the beach and got joined by a lady with her dog, a two year old hound with big dangling balls and (I think) of Weimaraner descent. She was throwing sticks for it and I asked if I could join. She acceded. It was brilliant - I haven't thrown sticks for a dog on a beach for decades and it was…  pure unadulterated and blissful fun. There is something about a dog on a beach that brings out the kid in everyone, and to see my new friend scrabbling fast across the sand keen to bring back the treasure for another throw was hugely soul satisfying. It was also a good way to work off some of the lunch. Fabulous memory for me. 

Trystians CJ and May

Back inside for the amazing dessert and a few final photos. Chef Deborah has a deft touch with balancing tastes and flavours. Absolutely would come back here in a second.  Especially when the sun is shining. And there are dogs on the beach to throw sticks for. 

La Perla del Mare

VIA DELLA MELORIA 9, 57027 SAN VINCENZO

http://www.laperladelmare.it

info@laperladelmare.it

MENU

Amuse bouche of fried anchovy and pizza dough filled with anchovy ricotta

Octopus on Cream of Chickpeas and Buffalo Mozzarella

Seafood Risotto

Monkfish Roulade with Goose Ham, Pistachio and Potatoes Puree

The Black Pearl dessert

WINES

Bellavista Alma Gran Cuvee Brut

2016 Donnaolympia 1898, Bolgheri

2016 "Collio" Sauvignon Blanc, Schiopetto DOC

2016 Bolgheri Rosso DOC

Lunchtime Wines

Another boozy lunch comes to an end...

Dinner at Enoteca Tognoni

Back on the Marco Express to our digs in the village, where we all fell into our rooms and some of us slept to recharge the batteries ahead of our upcoming dinner. This would (allegedly) be a lighter affair than most and would take place at one of Trystian Dear Leader's favourite establishments, Enoteca Tognoni. He writes: "An institution in Bolgheri for wine lovers. Enoteca Tognoni is a wine bar restaurant stocked with the best of Tuscan and Bolgheri wines at close to retail price, for in house drinking." As said, he had promised a comparatively lighter meal so that we could enjoy as many of the wines as our capacity would permit. Of course - we Trystians must maximise our time and our researches so that no bottle is left uncorked or untasted in our pursuit of exquisite vinous perfection. Yes.

Inside the Enoteca Tognoni - phwoooar....

At 7pm we all clambered back on the bus (though minus one or two Trystians in absentia due to a mild chest infection) and got dropped at the entrance to the village. A short walk along puddle strewn cobbled streets brought us to our destination. And what a place it would prove - walking through the door we got stunned by the sheer numbers of bottles on shelves from floor to ceiling and all around the central dining area. And all good stuff - none of your supermarket pile it high sell it cheap nonsense here. 

Trystians Allie and Yasu shooting the bread

We were seated on a long table already laid out with glasses and plates. Dear Leader went off to select some starter wines and we all took our photos of this amazing place. Naturally I tootled off to find the bathroom to get settled ahead of what could be a long night. 

Trystians David, Yasu and Yin-How selecting the good stuff

Which went amazingly fast. The bread and cold meat and pasta starters came out quite quickly and the booze started getting poured and swigged with lots of cheering going up and down the table. And then the big cahuna; a couple of plates of the classic Bistecca Fiorentina - grilled T Bone of local Chianina beef. Total Trystian heaven. The cheering went on all through the night. The rustic ambience and almost kitchen warehouse feel made for a brilliant atmosphere and it became a hugely enjoyable and memorable dinner. The locals did not seem to mind our noise, and there seemed to be quite a flow through of people traffic during the night. Great, great place - the kind of wine cave most of us would want to bring our friends for food and wine and fun times. Another be very happy to return here if the wheel of life so spins. 

Wines for the night - see notes below

And excellent choices of wines by our Dear Leader - we all could see he was very happy perusing the labels and making decisions as to which ones to crack open. I don't remember much about the nuances between them all; I append his notes from his Facebook record of the night.  

Bistecca Fiorentina Chianini - with potatoes. Got the salivatories going here!

At the end of the dinner we packed some food to take back for our absent Trystians. We also packed the remains of some wines that had gone undrunk for a light supper. A slow wander back through the streets of the town to the bus and a head count before the off. Slightly wet as I recall, but it had dried out by the time we reached the Relais. Back at the Farm, most bedded down for the night whilst some of the diehards parked themselves outside one of the Trystian rooms along a corridor to nightcap down the remains of the booze. Quite crisp and cool in the near midnight chill. It was here that one of the Trystians brought out a pot of Chinese cuisine style pork ribs and fermented eggs in herbal stew for the assembled to chow down on. Apparently it had been cooked in Hong Kong and brought on the plane to Italy. Of course. I had a couple of sups of the soup but was way too full of Chianini beef to help to do any sort of justice to this HongKong beast. We finished off most of the Enoteca booze and trundled off to our respective rooms. Lenglui was asleep when I got back so I quietly got bed ready and crawled under the cover. It had been a very good day - most enjoyable. The dreams were sweet that night. 

Enoteca Tognoni menu

Enoteca Tognoni di Franceso Tognoni

Via Lauretta, 5

BOLGHERI

Tel: 0565 762001

www.enotecatognoni.it

info@enotecatognoni.it

Enoteca Tognoni Wine Notes by Wong Yin-How@vintrywines

Terlan Kreuth Chardonnay 2015
Lithe and fresh unoaked style. Grapefruit and citrus fruits dominate. A fresh crisp style but with a textured attractive mid palate.

Profumo di Vulcano 2015 was perfumed, musky and medium bodied with fine tannins and cedar hints.

Montevertine IGT 2015

A stalwart of Radda in Chianti. The wine had a core of ripe cherry fruit, refined tannins and a smooth suave texture. Modern yet restrained.

Castello di Monsanto Il Poggio Chianti Classico Riserva 2011
A rising star build on solid traditional approach. This single vineyard from an elevated site shows old vine intensity of dark cherries and spice with wood very much supporting in the background and ripe but fine grippy tannins. Leathery savoury nuances round off the wine.

Gaja Magari 2015
Still reserved, powerful with deep seated dark Berry fruit and monolithic tannins. Long length but needs time.

Isole Olena Cepparello 2012
The elegant and classic Sangiovese from Paolo di Marchi never disappoints. Deceptive power, layered fine textured tannins and pure red and dark cherry fruit with an intense yet focused finish. Classy. 

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