Mission

Mission: To respond thoughtfully and responsibly to my experiences of drinking and dining at restaurants with regard to the quality, service, preparation, presentation and overall experience received thereat. The standpoint is one who respects the crafts of the chef and sommelier and who seeks to understand their choices in the kitchen and cellar and grow in knowledge. In this, I will seek to be fair, reasoned, direct and constructive and aim to keep my ego in check on our mutual journeys through the worlds of food and wine.
Showing posts with label oysters. Show all posts
Showing posts with label oysters. Show all posts

Friday, July 28, 2017

Boys Night at Casa Rosa - excellent steak!

Plump oysters - belter!
July 26 2017

A magnificent evening of steak, oysters and wine where we all got happily drunk whilst feasting on some really good and well cooked meat. 

The Boys all rave about the steak at Casa Rosa, and we are all friends with the owners IJ and Cynthia who are always hugely generous with their time and food. They also operate the Jakes Place franchise. Casa Rosa is located in The Pines condo complex in Mont Kiara, requiring visitors to negotiate the guard at the gate, get your visitor laminate and find a parking spot (easy on a Wednesday night, weekends a bit more complicated). Casa Rosa had a previous incarnation in Damansara but had to move when the BIG group bought over the property and renovated the entire row of shops.

One of the magnificent steaks
I had always found the steaks at both the old and the new Casa Rosa to be good but not great. Solid and wholesome, but lacking in some je ne sais quoi something. Couldn't say that about this visit - excellent seasoning, hot on the plate, tender as a bedroom whisper and with perfect bite and chew. This was big ass rib eye that tasted magnificent. I think there were different marbles because the menu and bill showed different prices and different designations - some were SK, some were SSK but it wasn't clear from the menu what these all meant. Find out next time. 

Winewise, we had Sparkling South Africans and a couple of whites to start (an Oyster Bay, naturally, and my 2014 LFE Reserve from Chile) before hitting some well tasty red. Interesting contrast between the crisp and frisky Oyster Bay and the aged and layered LFE. The bit of stink on the LFE put some people off, but once past this the wine offered rich apricot and a hint of toast. Not bad.

The Boyz
Can't remember much about the reds, but there was an Italian magnum along with various other lovelies. I took a 2012 Bordeaux which went respectably well with the meat whilst all the others look pretty Italian from the photo. There was one big ass Aussie Shiraz that came out at the end, possibly bought from the Casa as a nightcap which was delightful. 

The booze
The bill came out at about RM350 ish per person for four dozen oysters and five steaks between nine of us. No corkage but I did slip the wine boy a few Ring for his trouble. After this he kept feeding me wine - there had to be about five glasses in front of me at one time. Everyone seemed to think I was slow in drinking but I don't think so. I had made a friend.  


Would I go back? Yes. The ambience is friendly, the service is good, and the steak was excellent. Well worth a visit, though maybe select a designated driver or Uber - the booze at Casa Rosa can flow a bit too easily!

Casa Rosa
Mont Kiara Pines, Aspen Clubhouse
50480 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
03-6203 1978


Cheers!!

Friday, July 31, 2015

Pol-Roger at Ribs Damansara - Ooo La La!!


November 6th 2014 - This was one that got neglected as a result of getting caught up in a Rock Blues Singing and Writing Revival and which dropped off the desktop. My singing and lyric writing has taken off thanks to a brilliant little website for musicians called Wikiloops. Musicians across the world can upload a recording of themself playing their instrument to the central site. Other musicians can then download that recording and record themselves with it in a "jam" with their instrument. This new recording gets uploaded, which can then get further downloaded and layered with other jams. Since I found it, lyrics have been pouring out of me and I have been having the absolute best of times recordings myself singing them and uploading them to Wikiloops. Strange - barely wrote a lyric for three years and now…  tap got turned on and they are gushing. Check it out at www.wikiloops.com and do a search for gwailoah (that's me). You might have to register but there is absolutely no spamming and you don't need to be a musician to listen to the tracks. Or follow this link http://www.wikiloops.com/artist/gwailoah.php

Mr. Hubert from Pol-Roger
Anyhow, wanted to give a loud shoutout to another good night at the Ribs in the company of M. Hubert de Billy from Pol-Roger, who was here in South East Asia on a tour of meetings with distributors. Yin-How of Ribs was one of them and he put together a good looking dinner to mark the occasion and help to showcase the good stuff. How to say no? 

We don't see much (read ANY) Pol-Roger in the stores or the restaurants, but presumably it is there. The name is the stuff of legend, the world of James Bond, exquisite living on the Cap D'Or sucking on a bottle of fizz with oysters for breakfast whilst zooming along the Corniches of the Riviera in an open top sports car. Winston Churchill was said to have whiskey before a meal, cognac after, and Pol-Roger with. They even named the street where their central office in Epernay is located after him. Though it was a surprise to hear that their central office is in Hereford - the story is that when part of the company got bought over by HP Bulmer the Cider maker they didn't want the expense or upheaval of relocating staff to London. Renting space would be horrific. So they stayed. Though they now have a London office for marketing and storage. 

The Pol-Roger website notes that the relationship between it and Sir Winston Churchill dates back to a luncheon given by the British Ambassador to France soon after the liberation of Paris. At the lunch were Mme. Odette Pol-Roger and Sir Winston, both of whom became fast friends in a friendship which continued until his passing. Presumably it was there that he also developed his taste for the fizz, of which he once said "in victory, deserve it. In defeat, need it!"

Sir Winston's connection to the Pol-Roger house was loyal and clearly affectionate. It seems he never made it to visiting the winery, though he famously designated it as “the most drinkable address in the world”. Another of his pithy epithets was “My tastes are simple, I am easily satisfied with the best”. He also had a racehorse named Pol-Roger which was a winner at Kempton Park in 1953. 

Lenglui had to pull out last minute due to strep throat so the Doc being already slotted as substitute was happy to step up to the table. I got there slightly ahead of time though some had already been seated and were chugging happily on the first fizz. Doc and I had been parked with M. Hubert for the dinner, who proved a shade shy on his feet but most excellent company at the table. Representing the fifth generation of the Pol-Roger family, M. Hubert has been in charge of public relations and brand development. He studied Business in Reims, Paris and San Francisco and has been a member of the directoire since 1998. Together with wine maker Dominique Petit, they suggest the potential blend of the cuvee to the rest of the family members (father, sister, uncle) for final approval. 

The short version is that the food was well tasty and the fizz was delightful. We started with the usual porky style canapes that the Ribs does so very well, and they really helped the fizz grip the throat nicely ahead of the feast that was to come. 

The oysters came in three styles. The Doc thought the one with the radish went well with the NV fizz, though others on the table liked the lemon yuzu with caviar. For me the lime garlic and chili did the trick nicely - good spritz on the tongue which was zapped nicely by the crisp clean and perfectly chilled fizz. Very lively, though maybe needed a shade more caviar for salt to test the NV. A brilliantly young and crisp fizz though - perhaps a shade too bright for my taste but a very good champagne nevertheless. 

Trio of Fin de Claire Oysters
M. Hubert shared that it is only the Brits who like the Vintage Champagne; the rest of the world like the NV because it has more life. Okay, makes sense, and it is true that we Brits like things a bit aged for some reason. Maybe it is because of the gamey food styles us Brits go for - we hang meat and game and like to let our cheese rot for a while. And we learned that the UK is still the biggest market for Pol-Roger. 

The Vintage 2002 got paired with the Lobster and worked well, though in truth it would have been a belter with the earlier oysters. Calls for more oysters to test this particular theory not unexpectedly fell on deaf ears. Well, don't ask don't get, eh?

Grilled Slipper Lobster
The Rose 2004 got paired with some cold braised duck. Some nice fat on the meat made the cold duck taste wonderful and the pink fizz let the gamey meat and hard fat meld into a full chewy bite that oozed taste and juice. Lovely. The Rose itself was more masculine than traditional Roses, and intentionally so. Seems it took M. Hubert's father three times of asking the grandfather to give permission to make a Rose, which was ultimately granted only on condition that Grandpa would not be made to drink it. Conventional wisdom at the time was that to create a successful Rose, it had to be sweet, light pink and in a feminine bottle. Pol-Roger went completely against this grain and produced a non sweet, dark pink fizz in a masculine bottle. And it worked, both then and now - firm in the mouth and finish, this Rose is no lady (though perhaps it is not quite a gentleman either). It is a good belt of bubbles and taste, with enough fruit to tittilate and sufficient body heft to feel that this was indeed a drink for the soul rather than the mind.

Cold Braised Duck
Dish of the night was the Pork - lovely gravy with well braised meat and chips of crackled skin which gave crunch to the lean fatty texture of what was a slab of excellent pork. The gravy was rich, full, exploding with stock and a soy sauce barbecue blast across the cheeks. Home run for the Chef for this one. Ribs do their pork extremely well.

Soy Braised Pork Belly with Foie Gras
Paired with the Sir Winston Churchill, this was the Pol-Roger piece de resistance. Made from Grand Cru grapes only, this was champagne at its finest - slight biscuit nose and taste, the cleanest of bubbles that popped and zapped the cheeks and the smoothest and finest of finishes. Now THIS is a breakfast champagne to go with the oysters and caviar. 

Dessert was somewhat anticlimactic, though trying to follow the pork would have killed most things. Good choice to go for a simple fruits and cream, which cleaned the palate nicely and freshly and became a nice cap on the evening.

Order forms for the fizz came around. I opted for the Rose and a bottle of the Sir Winston which I will yank out from the fridge one day when the occasion arises. 

Also wanted to keep it for an occasion for when the Doc would have kicked his second bout with the Leukemia into oblivion. Didn't happen - this would prove to be the second last time I would share his company. Within twenty four days he would be gone. Life can be a bastard like that. But it was a great evening with him, and will stay with me as a result. Which is part of the reason I wanted to upload this report and not let it rot in some folder on the Mac like a lot of others. He was in very good spirits and form on the night, usual dry crackling wit, sipping his fizz like a champion and thoroughly enjoying it with his duck and his pork. Great memory. Will think of him when it gets popped.

POL-ROGER WINE DINNER 
6th NOVEMBER 2014, 7.30PM

Selection of Canapes
Pol-Roger Brut Reserve NV

Trio of Fine de Claire oysters topped with garlic lime chilli coriander, lemon caviar and ponzu grated radish 
Pol-Roger Brut Reserve NV

Grilled Slipper Lobster with kaffir infused burnt butter and lemon salt 
Pol-Roger Brut Vintage 2002

Cold Braised Duck with tangy pomelo vinaigrette and crispy julienned Bentong ginger and fire roasted capsicum 
Pol-Roger Brut Rose Vintage 2004

Soy braised pork belly and Foie Gras served with crispy lotus root and crackled pork skin
Pol-Roger Sir Winston Churchill 2000

Fresh strawberries with calamansi infused crème fraiche topped with toasted pistachios and white wine agave nectar reduction

Wednesday, July 29, 2015

DC Restaurant - seriously good...


DC Restaurant in Taman Tun
July 25th 2015 - Must say upfront that I thoroughly enjoyed this dinner. This was the rare occasion when the restaurant and its food transported me from Taman Tun to somewhere in the world where culinary skills and fine dining are properly respected and exercised. It could have been a bistro in Paris or Lyon, a restaurant in Florence, or a modern style eaterie in New York. Seriously good food and space and decor. 

We had been hearing good reports of the DC from our IWFS and when Texas circulated an email wondering who might be up for giving it a try we figured it was the perfect opportunity. We have a general policy of looking to try new restaurants early in their lives, because experience suggests that within a shortish time the prices will go up and the portions will go down or the chef will leave for pastures new. Following some schedule reshuffling, eight of us (four couples) confirmed and the thing was on. 

The DC in the restaurant is Darren Chin who is the French culinary techniques trained son of Mr Dave of Dave's Deli fame. Dave's Deli is legend in the food scene in Malaysia, offering up tasty Western style soul food at fair prices at a couple of outlets in the PJ area. Lenglui and I were occasional patrons when our shopping expeditions would take us within range, but we hadn't seen the name for a while and assumed it had gone the way of its contemporaries. So it was heartening to hear that Dave's Deli was indeed alive and well with an outlet in 1 Utama and operating franchises elsewhere in Selangor and Penang. His Roast Chicken and gravy were consistently good and the website shows he is looking to develop the franchise side of the Deli. Every best wish in this! 

And son Darren is clearly following in father's footsteps (or should that be foodsteps?) though taking a more refined line. He trained for two years in France and has developed a passionate belief in "young cuisine" which he sees as stripping food down to its unpretentious bare essentials and presenting it in its purest natural form. He recognises that this requires a degree of open mindedness on the part of patrons, but feels that those who do follow him and his staff on their gastronomic trip will be well and pleasantly rewarded.

Our wines
DC restaurant is a three storey shophouse located in TTDI, Kuala Lumpur. The website says that each of the three floors offers a different dining experience, though all are "inspired by the same spirit of innovation." On the ground level is "Le Comptoir" where patrons can enjoy a swift or slow aperitif before proceeding upstairs to the first floor "La Salle" for dinner. It looked closed as we entered the place, so after our dinner, I nipped in to take a look - it was a long winding bar where people could gather and either sip or sup with various tidbits. Indeed, the night we were there Chef Darren and staff were preparing to welcome a cast party. Seems there is a concise a la carte menu and dishes will vary from day to day depending on what is good at the markets. 

As said, first floor is La Salle and is the main dining area with space for a total of probably around twenty five patrons. The upper floor above La Salle will be a playroom for chefs to experiment and hold weekend classes for all you Masterchef wannabees. The menu changes pretty regularly, though it seems to remain a standard 5 or 7 course fixed price degustation tasting menu. Wines are available, though the blogs were suggesting that the DC wine list was not really up to the standard of the food so for our session it was decided to allocate vinous responsibilities between us all and pay the RM50 corkage. Seems that this is partially why many restaurants will not carry the high end wines - they become difficult to sell because the target buyer will normally bring their own to sup and stand the corkage. Fair enough - no point to have big wines sucking up the electricity for their storage when they won't pay their way. Sommelier Jan shared that the DC wine list was being upgraded and a swift look at the winelist-to-be showed good offerings of Bordeaux Second wines and other European delights. Nice to see, but we'll probably still bring our own. The glassware at the DC was excellent.

Chef Darren explains a dish
We all arrived pretty much within five minutes of each other and got greeted with some crispy sweet fruit juice mocktail in a shooter glass before getting escorted upstairs and to our seats. Chef Darren greeted us at the top of the stairs and Sommelier Jan discussed the order of our wines once we were seated. The ambience was very tasteful and nicely subdued. Very French and refined, with light Jazz piano music lending an air of easy sophistication. And white starched tablecloths. Don't know what it is but there is just something…   they make such a statement of expectation, that somehow at the mere sight of starchy white you just know it's going to be good. The butter dishes were also a nice touch, reminiscent of Paul Bocuse in Lyon. They were very cute. And the truffle butter inside them would prove wonderful with the DC Bread Service - it just sang with the home baked croissant. The combo of egg, salt, butter, light crispy croissant crunch, truffle and bubbles was just - ahhhhhhhh…….  totally brilliant way to relax into the evening.

Bread Service and Truffle Butter - awesome!
The fizz was already cool but we gave it an extra five minutes on ice before it got popped. It was worth the extra wait. Lovely drop of frisky cold bubbles. Felt a bit aged with big yeast bread on the nose and meaty fruit in the mouth which, when added to the chunky bubbles and lemon acidity made it a belter to suck on. It really stoked up the salivatories, if there is such a word. And really set the tongue off for that heavenly truffle buttered bread. Om. 

The fizz was still bubbling when the Amuse reached the table, though the Macon Verze had been poured. The Amuse was a beef tendon open sandwich and a fish crispy rice ball, er, open sandwich. Two bites apiece to consume. The Beef Tendon was pretty much pureed into a smooth mush which had a soft creamy texture and not much else at first blush. Though once the crisp flakey crunch of the crusted bread kicked in, the whole was brought into better taste focus. Got a strange toro belly sashimi feel in the mouth (though with a beefy tickle on the tongue) to which the paprika gave a slight burn in the cheek. The Yellowfin Tuna had more body and naturally a more traditional tuna mouth feel, and the Peppered Rice Krispie ball on which it sat gave a wonderful starchy carbo layer to underpin and elevate. Very very nice and a belter with the Macon Verze Puligny which was proving a real star and a table favourite. Creamy golden apples and lemon zest with a clear spring water feel, all in excellent balance and leading to a clean flinty finish. The peppered rice zapped the acidity and let a big hit of something akin to dragonfruit to show through. 

Amuse Bouche
Our table seemed to be showing surprisingly remarkable restraint in its drinking, and there was still sufficient Macon Verze on the table to greet the Oyster. This was served with crouton and caviar and slightly poached, presumably in its own juice because there was a tremendous brine taste on it, as if the poaching had enhanced the natural juice which the little fellow had once breathed. Total taste of the sea. Peasant that I am, I tried the Basil Hollandaise and Lime mix with the Oyster and got a lemon yuzu kind of pop with the brine cutting through the cream. Very nice. The Charcoal tempura frankly looked like a lump of week old dogdoo and not entirely appetizing from this viewpoint. Clearly taking a leaf from the Mugaritz handbook of "make food look like something else". But it was a cracker - soft shell crab texture mixed with burnt toast to give a dry carbon mouthfeel that was light and dreamy and kicked the throat with a matchbox rip that the Macon Verze washed away perfectly. Such a good versatile Burgundy and great value too - shame it was the last of our batch. Trying the dogdoo - sorry, tempura with the Basil Sauce softened the black crust and paired nicely with the crabmeat, but somewhat neutralised the wine. 

Oyster and Charcoal Tempura
Third course was a choice between lobster or pigeon. I have yet to get pigeon - dark, dry, gamey meat and not much of it. Much prefer chicken. So lobster it would have to be. And a spiny one at that, though not many spines were evident when it came out looking like a green Ferrero Rocher chocolate drippled with gold leaf. Cute, but a bit visually strange - almost like some deep seaweed dim sum. Tastewise, though, it was excellent - fresh, and slightly undercooked which gave it a sashimi-like quality though remaining firm enough to chew and satisfy. There was a great blend of tastes coming through. And not overpoweringly "lobster-ey" - sometimes you get that slightly aged tinge to the meat when it has been out of water for a while. Not today - this puppy felt as if it had just been potted. Totally excellent. 

Spiny Lobster - scallop rouelle
And the Leflaive 2012 Clavoillon was the perfect accompaniment - grace, power, elegance, finesse; take your pick because it was all of these and more. Full on whack of sweet nectarines and lemon in the mouth, and finishing like a freewheeling Rolls Royce - in its own sweet time. Stood up well to the lobster, with both the food and the drink showing the best that each had to offer. Yum. Will bring the Leflaive back here - stunning match. Uncle Teng at our table shared that winemaker Anne-Claude Leflaive had recently passed away (April 5, 2015 age 59 apparently of cancer), which left me sad. A serious pioneer of biodynamism, and a maker of some stunningly beautiful wines. Honoured by Decanter magazine in 2006 (where she was named the world's top white winemaker) and the Institute of Masters of Wine who named Anne-Claude "the winemaker's winemaker". One of the true modern day greats. Au revoir Mme Leflaive - may there be grapes in heaven for you. Obituary at 
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/obituaries/11532551/Anne-Claude-Leflaive-viticultrice-obituary.html

Lenglui and bubbles
Talk moved to overseas and we got given tips for great Chinese food at Hakka San in Tottenham Court Road and Duck + Rice in Soho. Normally we never touch Chinese when overseas - it has been unfailingly disappointing. But we got these tips from Food Sifu Lim who knows his food so we will give it a go next time we are there. 

We were presented with an Earl Grey and Lemongrass sorbet which was a cute mix of tannin and pepper and had the texture of a Durian. Not the usual slushie gunk one gets elsewhere. Chef has good skills. 

We were poured both the Vosne Romanee and Bonnes Mares together because Uncle Teng (who had brought them from his Barrique cellar) wanted a side by side comparison. No argument here. The VR at first was a bit off balance - potent pepper and spice nose, cheek pinching acidity, black cherry fruit and firm grip in the throat on the way down. As we worked our way down the bottle and it got a bit of air in the glass, it started to show its class and a great balance came more into focus. Lean and clean, a solid workmanlike wine. Given that it was a Vosne-Romanee, I came off slightly disappointed. As one of the pinnacle wines of our drinking careers, the VR should have been godlike and somehow it wasn't. Perhaps my expectations were a bit inflated - I was expecting to be stunned and I wasn't. But still hugely glad to have had the chance to taste it. Thank you Uncle Teng.

The Bonnes Mares was lighter and all sweet ripe cherries and with a fair hint of jam. Clean, clear, light and frisky, lot of finesse and elegance in the mouth and on the finish. A slight cheek puckering acidity which was like a delightful kiss from a Cinderella. Total princess of a wine - the one you would marry and bring home to your mother. Real treat drinking these wines...

DC Signature seafood medley
I had opted for the Seafood course and it came out looking excellent. Scallop was full on, though feeling slightly aged at first. You know that hard rind you sometimes get around the edge? That was the initial feel with this one. But as you worked your way through it you found it to be an awesome little chap - all sweet, fresh bite and that little bit of crunchy give on the chew. Perfecto. And stellar with the remains of the Leflaive, with the bisque-like sweetly salty emulsion taming the lemon whilst remaining sufficiently understated to let the honey and fruit sink into the scallop. 

The Razor Clam was a bit on the tough side in bite and chew, but tasty enough. Some leaves of Rocket gave a cute bite on the cheeks. It was the fish that let the dish a little bit down. I think it was a Kurau and though it was far from bad it somehow felt a bit… ordinary in comparison to the other seafood. I get the idea that local produce is necessary, and on its day Kurau can be excellent. For me, this was not its day - didn't quite stand up to the company of the magnificent scallop.

The emulsion was a shade sweet, though soft and delicate in taste. Needless to say, I sopped it up with the bread and truffle butter - as regular readers will know, I am a total peasant at the table. It was magnificent. Where else can you soak up bisque sauce with bread and truffle butter? 

14 spiced Black Angus Fillet
I had a taste of the beef and it was all tender and lean with light pepper and I got a hint of some mustard season. There was a herb in there somewhere, may have been sage but my nose and tongue were pretty tired by this time. Sometimes is better to just shut up and enjoy what's on the table. The Bok Choy baked in walnut pesto felt texturally like salted cabbage with a grilled cheese topping and pretty much tasted like it. I didn't quite get this one - again, full on green iron in the cheeks, but not quite sure why one would go to such trouble to puree and pesto the walnuts. But as said the senses were way overwhelmed at this time in the evening. Will have to try the beef and walnut pesto again and a bit earlier in the night. 

The Canon-la-Gaffeliere Bordeaux had been decanted and was a brilliant example of a classic left bank wine. Full and ripe, with earth and mineral and a hint of mint and green pepper on the nose. Smooth and full, rich and velvety in the mouth with a long lustrous finish. Definitely what friends in the industry might describe as "silky tannins lorrrr". Certainly reminiscent in both texture and taste of some lovely Leoville-Barton at its best. Was wonderful with the cheese, of which I have no notes. Too busy enjoying this lovely Bordeaux. 

Cheese and crackers
Throughout the evening, both the food and wine service had been noiselessy and unobtrusively excellent. It was pleasantly refreshing to be gently asked whether a glass could be cleared rather than having some arm trying to annoyingly sneak in and whisk it away. Only things I could pick up on were the occasional tendency for the men to get their wine before the ladies and getting asked for feedback whilst still waiting for dessert - usually best to leave this until all plates are cleared. Other than these minor points, service was superb.

Lychee Parfait
As said, it was difficult to remember that this was Kuala Lumpur. We have had this kind of quality and service in Michelin restaurants in France, and at Cilantro and Sage and many moons ago in Lafite. DC is real standard which can definitely compete with the fine dining culinary world on its own terms. And the concept of utilising the best that local markets have to offer and preparing the produce with traditional and classic French techniques sets DC on a different road than the competition. Other writers have praised DC as a game changer for Malaysia. Well, and yes and maybe, and DC will probably win many of the Malaysian awards. But if the context becomes global and DC will get compared with established eateries and chefs in Singapore, Bangkok and Hong Kong, perhaps the game changer viewpoint is a bit strong at this time. It's great to see Chef doing what he is doing, and KL foodies should support him and his visions. For sure I will be back. With friends who know their food. And wine. We now have little bit of France in Taman Tun - c'est magnifique, TRES magnifique!!

Cheese Trolley
Restaurant DC
44 Persiaran Zaaba
Taman Tun Dr Ismail
60000 Kuala Lumpur

03-77310502
info@restaurant-dc.com
www.restaurant-dc.com

5 Course South-East Asian inspired Tasting Menu
RM298.00+/pax includes GST & subject to 10% service charge

Bread Service
Freshly baked bread from our bakers Marc & Christophe Gros With Pamplie unpasteurized truffle butter (Poitue-Charentes)
1st - Amuse
Crispy beef tendon "chicharrones": Sour dough bread cream: 
Hungarian paprika Yellowfin tuna "Larb": Rice puff: Colantro
2nd - Petit entrée
Sabah soft shell crab, Charcoal tempura: Sweet basil hollandaise: 
Kaffir lime & Poached Irish oyster Cucumber-belimbing salad
3rd - Choice of main entrée
Spiny lobster - scallop rouelle
Jellied lobster consommé
Or
AOP Anjou French Pigeon
Slow roasted pigeon: Crusted Sweet breads: Celeriac: Shaved black truffles: Mentaiko mushroom: Sauce perigord
4th - Choice of mains
DC signature seafood medley
Catch of the day: Hokkaido scallops: Razor clams with confit garlic (Pulau Ketam, Klang): Mizuna: Watercress-almond purée: Seafood emulsion
[Supplement - 1/2 Brittany Blue lobster - butter poached: Lobster emulsion - add RM168]
Or
14 spiced Black Angus fillet
Garlic cream: Baked bok choy with walnut pesto: Jus
[Supplement - for each add on RM60.00
a) 10gms freshly sliced black summer truffle and / or
b) Pan seared 50gms Rougié foie gras ]
5th - Choice of Dessert or Cheese
Dessert
Lychee (Chiang Mai) Parfait
Rose sorbet: Lychee stuffed with caramel cashew & tamarind
Or
Cheese from our Cheese Trolley
Selection of farm fresh cheese from France & Italy: Fresh salad: Crusty bread

Wines
Taittinger NV Champagne Brut
2010 Leflaive Puligny Montrachet Macon Verze
2012 Leflaive Puligny Montrachet "Clavoillon" 1er Cru
2007 Bouchard Pere et Fils Vosne Romanee "Les Suchets" Premier Cru 
2007 Domaine Arlaud "Bonnes Mares" Grand Cru
2000 Ch Canon-la-Gaffeliere St Emilion Grand Cru Classe

Wednesday, January 14, 2015

L'Heritage at Royale Chulan - not so good


13th January 2015

Scouting round for a venue for an upcoming IWFS function, Food Chair David hit on L'Heritage located in the Royale Chulan hotel off Jalan Conlay. This is a massive expanse of a hotel with a huge ballroom and opulent marble and big space everywhere. I had been to a function there with our acapella group a couple of years back and enjoyed a decent buffet at the coffee shop there, though there was no indication at the time that there were other restaurants elsewhere in the complex. Notwithstanding, L'Heritage appeared to be of good standing. Seems it was featured in the recent MIGF 2014 offering a decent looking and (according to the menu I received) award winning Western set meal for a fair price. David talked to them and they must have said the magic words "no corkage" so a trial dinner was fixed for Committee to sample.  

Table and ambience of L'Heritage
Parking was straightforward, though getting to the restaurant involved a stop at reception to ask how to get there. Once on the correct first floor, following signage proved a detour - had I ignored the direction signs I would have got to the place in five seconds. As it was I walked through the Malay, Chinese, and some other restaurant, all of which were empty. On reflection, seeing them all empty should have put me on alert that not all was well, but there you go - when you're on a mission to get somewhere you're not always open to these things. It was indeed, as the Kiwi remarked, like the Marie Celeste - empty and desolate and little evidence of life. Though a very pretty Marie Celeste it should be said - the room designated for our meal was most pleasant, reminiscent of a colonial deck with pristine chairs and tables. Table settings, wine service and glasses were excellent - the staff seemed to be good with people, though they did need a bit of wine guidance from David on occasion. Food service was also good - plates were cleared quickly and requests for more bread and water were met quickly and graciously. 

Oysters were a bit not good
The wines brought by the company (nine of us, though I brought an extra bottle of fizz) were superb. Three champagnes, one white, a Burgundy and three top end Bordeaux. I had brought a Connetable Talbot, the 2nd Wine from Chateau Talbot to try and pair with the beef. It was a bit second level in the vinous company so it got parked aside. It would eventually get drunk, though, as would the spare fizz. We are IWFS, these things are necessary.

Ultimately, though, it was all about the food and it was here that things fell quite flat. The Fin de Claire oysters were tiny and shrivelled and chewy and with a suspicion of age about them. The toppings were tastyish and well presented, but there was little to comment about them otherwise. Fail.

Seems the King Crab Royale and Atlantic Scampi were not available, so we got some greyish Crab on Mash potato with a rather large prawn whose homes of origin I did not manage to find out. Whilst the prawn was freshly acceptable and displaying good bite and chew, the crab and mash were a bit meh and snuzz. Individually each was not too bad, though the combo seemed to give an impression of stodgy. Seemed also to be a little over-salt on the potato. Fail.

Crab and Prawn - hmmm...
Drinks-wise, we were enjoying some lovely bubbles - starting with a delightfully light and fruity Thierry Grandin and giving way to a gracious 2004 Dom Perignon and a brawny 2002 Pol Roger Winston Churchill. I was half tempted to stand to attention and sing Rule Britannia while the Churchill got popped but the steely stern eye of the Governor from across the table quashed my eagerness. Winston was lovely and totally overpowered the Dom when supped side by side. Very masculine fizz. I'd had the Churchill at a Ribs dinner in November 2014, but tonight it was colder and the sense of frozen biscuit on the nose and yeasty bubbles in the cheeks was wonderful. Later on, though, the Dom showed a beautiful balance of bubbles and crisp crunchy verve. Lovely finesse in this one. Lady Astor's grace to the Winston Churchill wit. 

Roast Garlic Soup - tasty
Next out was the Roast Garlic soup which was the dish of the night - lovely texture and light crust which soaked up the broth a sweet and flakey treat. Could have supped this one all night, though the resulting Garlic Breath would make me vampire repellant for a year. Lenglui repellent also. Though Lenglui is not a vampire. Leastways not that I know of. Better stop this line of thinking…  the soup gets two thumbs up.

The Chapoutier Les Tanneurs Marsanne-Roussane blend was in the glass and was proving a delightful mouth of marzipan and lychee oriental fruits. Cool and mellow though with a lightness on the roof of the mouth. Tasty wine.

Which would have been belter with the Salmon if the Salmon had been a bit warmer. Poached and cold is not a good thing. And being paired with some Foie Gras was perhaps a bit adventurous and might have worked if the ingredients were totally fresh off the plane. As it was, the seeming slight age on the ingredients gave a somewhat ordinary result. The menu talked of mint, which might have zested the pairing, but I didn't get much mint in the mouth. The FG was wonderful on the bread with some butter, though. Ah, bread and butter and pate with a glass of wine and good friends around a table - the world comes into perfect focus. Bare pass for this dish.

Salmon and Foie Gras
The sorbet was decent enough, though perhaps a shade sugary in texture. 

And then came the start of greatness. A Vosne-Romanee 2004 had been brought and poured. Magnificent glass of wine. Breathing in cherry and perfumed air, roiling around the mouth like a soothing balm and coating the throat with that delicate film of delight that fires the senses into the poetic and exalted heights of the sublime. Darn, this was nice. A Brigit Bardot of a wine, starlet, full of life and body, a little voluptuous but chic and powerful. It was love at first sip. Well, maybe lust with shades of infatuation. O fantasy…

I had picked Beef and three of the Bordeaux had been poured to accompany. With the Vosne still in the glass, this was as close to vinous heaven as I have ever been. 

I quite liked the beef, though I might have liked it better if it had not been smothered in Bisto like gravy. It gave it that Heinz Oxtail soup feel, all meat stock and beefy oomph which is fine for stew but gets in the way of the steak. There was a slight herbal note which intrigued, though for me sauce should enhance rather than potentially hide. Can't remember the veg, though someone said the carrots were nice. Passable, though not in the league of Prime or Lafite.

The Black Angus with vegetables
And the three Bordeaux…  we had a 2008 Pontet-Canet, a 2003 Leoville Barton and a 1985 Domaine de Chevalier. Each showed definite Bordeaux character and quality, and varied only in finesse and silkiness in the finish, which one would expect given the softening tannins across the years. The Pontet-Canet was in good bloom, with the tannins coming into good season in the wine. The Leoville was tasty, with characteristic big fruit and mellowing tannins. The Chevalier was a charmer, all fine and glissando steely silk finish. Lovely, lovely wines all. But it was the Vosne that kept coming back and setting them all in context. Definitely a touch of greatness here. I have been darn lucky with some of the darlings I have tasted and this was a definite add to the list. Semi charmed kind of life? You have no idea…

The cheese was awful - looked and felt like supermarket offerings cut into slices and tasting of rubber. Complete fail. 

The final dessert was snuzz. Pretty ordinary ice cream and chocolate sponge of standard hotel quality. Not much to write about in glowing praise terms. Bare pass.

The Champagne and Marsanne
Both the 2009 Connetable Talbot and Vincent NV Cremant got cracked to end the night. The Talbot was most pleasant in a fruity way - Kiwi enjoyed it and said to give it three years to come into better balance. I have a couple left in the wine fridge, so three years it is. The Cremant was a most pleasant and boozy way to end the night - creamy crisp bubbles with a firm finish to cleanse the throat. Darn sight better than a sorbet. 

The Reds and my spare Cremant
So…  in sum, lovely venue, excellent service, a Brahma of a night for wine but pretty grim food. I think the problem with this place is two fold. First, there is clearly not enough business to maintain a top level foreign chef. These guys are like thoroughbred horses and footballers, they need to perform and cook and when they don't get the chance then their form and fire will start to fade and they'll be looking to new pastures. You have to let them run if you want them to stay; if you can't let them run because there's no one to run for, they'll die of boredom. I was later told that the Executive Chef was not in the kitchen for the evening and that it had been the number two in control. Hmmm….    

Second, it is a hotel restaurant and as a consequence blandness is often necessarily built into food preparation so as to not offend patrons. Couple this with the absence of the chef at a test dinner for a gourmet group and some of the food not appearing because it could not be sourced...  res ipsa loquitur. Would no way have won an award from me on this performance. 

The meal was not unfair in value terms and as said the service from the staff was excellent. At present, though, it is not a destination restaurant and it is unlikely to become one because presumably very few know it exists and one gets the feeling that no one really cares too much about raising the profile. It is a standard destination for official government functions and owned by the company that runs the Armed Forces pension fund so business revenue is fairly guaranteed. Give it a decent chef, though, and it might stand a chance. The setting is delightful. As it stands, though, there doesn't seem enough buzz about any of the food venues in the place, and the final whack of a RM24 car park bill underlined for me that a return in the near future is far from likely. Though in fairness I did get lucky with the car park - it wouldn't take my money and on trying to pay at reception the nice lady validated for me. Would be a great venue for visiting Michelin chefs, though. Now THAT might be an idea…


MIGF - AWARD WINNING MENU 2014
Full Menu RM 180+ per pax 

STARTER/ DÉMARREUR
3 huîtres de Français de Clair de style different 
americaine, polonaise et rheetaise
3 Different Styles Fin De Clair French Oysters
American, Polonaise, Rhetaise

FROM THE OCEAN / DE L’OCEAN 
Crabe royal a l ‘ivoire, scampi de l ‘ atlantique et
beurre de truffe
King Crab a l` ivoire, Atlantik Scampi and Truffle Butter

SOUP /SOUPE
Ail jeune grille  
Roasted Young Garlic

ENTRÉE
Foie gras traditionnel ‘au torchon’ served avec
Un saumon poche dans un consommé de menthes du Viêt Nam 
Traditional Foie Gras ‘au Torchon’ served with
Slow Poached Salmon in Vietnamese Mints Consume

SORBET
Baies sauvages au sirop de cerise
Wild Berries with Cherry Syrup

On Going / Sur le Depart
BEEF / BOEUF
Steak Black Angus au four, strudel aux pommes
et a la nappage aux morilles
Simply Baked Black Angus Steak, Lamb Apple Strudel
Morel and Demi Glaze

OR
Le cabillaud et thon fumé croustillante avec un beurre blanc au citron et gingembre, 
accompagné par du chou, noix de pin, Parmesan et pommes bouillies au beurre
Crispy Fresh Cod and Smoked Tuna with Lemon – Ginger Sauce, 
accompanied by Cabbage, Pine Nuts and Boiled Buttered Potatoes   

CHEESE/FROMAGE
Plateau de fromage française assortise
Assorted French Cheese 

DESERT / DÉSERT
Gâteau Opéra avec ragoût des baies
Opera cake with berry stew

CAFÉ / TEA
Coffee /Tea

PETITS FOURS

Wines
Champagne Thierry Grandin NV
2002 Pol Roger Sir Winston Churchill
2004 Dom Perignon
2009 M Chapoutier Les Tanneurs Saint-Peray Marsanne
2004 Vosne-Romanee Domaine Confuron-Cotetidot
2008 Chateau Pontet-Canet Pauillac
2003 Chateau Leoville Barton
1985 Domaine De Chevalier Graves
Vincent Cremant de Bourgogne NV
2009 Connetable Talbot

Tuesday, September 30, 2014

IWFS Kampachi Sake Dinner - Averagely All Right


August 22 2014

The August shindig for the IWFS Kuala Lumpur was to be quite an auspicious affair. Big Tony had been contacted by the Kampachi people and advised of an upcoming promotion of produce from the Okayama Prefecture in Japan. Some more, the Governor of the Prefecture would be coming and did we want to hold a function there with him as guest of honour. Committee considered and yes please was the decision. 

Kampachi used to be legend for Japanese Cuisine in the early days when it was at the Equatorial Hotel on Jalan Sultan Ismail. Seems it has been around for more than forty years and was a regular winner of awards from the Food and Beverage industry. Indeed, our IFWS KL gave a Certificate of Commendation for a pairing dinner held at the Jaya 33 outlet in 2013. 

At one time Lenglui and I were quite friendly with Kampachi Executive Chef Cheah and occasionally went to the Kampachi at the KL Equatorial but then he moved to manage the Bangi outlet and we lost touch.  Since then, the Kampachi brand has expanded into stand alone restaurants in selected locations in the city. There has also been an explosion of competitor restaurants offering high end sashimi, and so much so that we drifted off to other new favourites - Iketeru in KL Hilton, Kami Sushi in Sri Hartamas, Kamimura in The Weld and the recently rediscovered Zipangu in the Shang. 

Table Place Setting at Kampachi
Over the years Kampachi has been sourcing its fresh produce from various prefectures in Japan. For the dinner, the fresh farm and marine produce and sakes would be sourced predominantly from the Okayama Prefecture. In this, the restaurant was seeking to "bring forward the highest level of flavour and enjoyment with each sake pairing." In particular, we were to look out for the award winning Sakura Muromachi Sake brewed from Omachi-mai rice and the famous Omachi spring water. This would be Sake One.

Executive Chef for the dinner would be Looi Weng Leong. Trained in Japan and with more than 20 years with Kampachi, it was felt his long association with the restaurant would ensure the highest standards of quality and innovation would be maintained. The showcase Sake Dinner would comprise seven "exceptional courses prepared from the freshest produce paired with carefully chosen traditionally crafted premium sakes highlighting the bountiful natural resources from Okayama". 

Kampachi Entrance
I had never yet been to any of the Kampachi outlets since it left the Equatorial nest. For some reason the locations were a bit off the usual shopping haunts. The one at Plaza 33 in Petaling Jaya is their fourth and is "the culmination of a Japanese interior designer’s effort to integrate traditional Japanese materials in a contemporary style. The restaurant is separated into two distinct zones: a stylish bar at the entrance leads guests into the main dining area. The well-stocked bar features some hard to find ‘cult’ Japanese sakes from exceptional breweries that are exclusively available only at the Kampachi."

I found it all a bit on the dark side, which was not really helped by the fact that most members had felt the need to dress equally dark. The ambience of the Kampachi felt modern Japanese with lots of traditional light balsa wood and bamboo feel yet with quite a bit of darker boardroom brown. Lighting was quite subdued for me. The IWFS had booked out the place and our 53 members and guests got separated across four tables of varying numbers. The setting was lovely and the service smooth and pleasant, though the temperature inside veered somewhat toward the chilly. 

The amazing Okayama Black Grapes
We were all greeted by a cocktail glass of something that looked staggeringly sweet and which was declined, preferring instead the wonderful looking grapes and peaches being carved and served. These were delightful. The black grapes in particular were massive - firm and crisp with a huge finish of sweet acidity. The peaches were equally stunning - a fresh clean bite and crunchy sweet pear like texture but finishing as soft as a Katy Perry teenage dream. Brilliant fruits - a total taste of Okayama sunshine and summer. There was also a Conger Eel carving demonstration. Some of us thought that we could eat the carvings and tried to pinch some of the eel but got firmly told no - demo only, no eat. 

Kampachi ambience
The Governor of Okayama His Excellency Mr. Ryuta Ibaragi was asked to give a speech and he kept it reasonably short. Quite a young chap, his speech was basically "come to Okayama and we will welcome you". Certainly the tourist brochures being given out portrayed a wonderfully fresh looking and clean part of the world. Very natural and hugely pretty. Given that they were most generous with their grapes and snow peaches as appetizers and later as parting gifts in cute bags, it became quite a tempting proposition. O how we can be easily bribed with good fruit… 

IWFS KL Past President Tony Narisawa with The Governor of Okayama His Excellency Mr. Ryuta Ibaragi
The Sakes for the night came in three separate flasks, though not all at the same time. It was all quite generous in that each of us got a flask of each sake and, being IWFS, there seemed little left over at the end of the night. Sake One was the slated Sakura Muromachi Bizen Maboroshi. The notes talked about a "sweet aroma of rice on the nose with a hint of citrus. A balanced palate that is clean and refreshing with a dry, long finish. Best served cold. Alcohol 17%, Seimaibuai 58% and Acidity 1.6." (NB Seimaibuai is the percentage of rice grain left after it has been polished - more polish equals higher grade sake). It came across as fragrant with a clean crisp and crunchy mouthfeel and a good rip on the back of the tongue. A good no-nonsense starter sake which we were all quickly quaffing and Kanpei-ing with gusto. Someone at this point asked if I like sake. My reaction answer was that I love the booze. Yes. The Kiwi thought I was being very honest. 

The opening Zensai (means Appetizer) would be two dishes. First out were the oysters which were absolutely superb - fresh, creamy and juicy and giving a fantastic sea-salt feel on the inside of the cheeks. They tamed the alcohol in the Sake to give off an odd tea tree bark feel on the salt sensitive sides of the tongue. Odd, but not unpleasant. 

Fresh Oyster with Homemade Japanese Citrus Vinaigrette
There were lots of little bits surrounding the oyster to give texture, and it was clearly a deft touch by Chef to ensure that there was not enough to overpower the main boy. In this, it would have been excellent to have had more oysters - we got two each when six would have slipped by so easily. So it goes. The oysters were generally accorded to be stunning - for me, they alone were worth the admission price. Unbelievably good. Set a high standard for the rest of town. 

The Nyonya and The Lenglui
Next out was the Stuffed Tomato and Prawn which combined a somewhat thin vegetal taste with a shellfish texture whilst a spaghetti squash added some crunch. Though there was little taste on the prawn, the combo worked quite well with the sake to bring out a nutty fruit feel in the mouth - apples, pears and almonds. The dish showed off a nice acidity and zing on the tongue - good sparky sparks, possibly the result of the Omachi Spring Water.

Stuffed Tomato with Green Asparagus, Pumpkin, Prawn, Potato and Spaghetti Squash with Wasabi Dressing
Sake Two (Bosatsumoto Nigorisyu Hiire) came out quickly and was ice cold, same as Sake One. The notes talked about a "light style of nigori with slight cloudiness and rice sediment. Made from Omachi rice using the ancient Bodaimoto method, it is slightly sweet with a balancing citrus sourness and peppery aftertaste. Best served cold. Alcohol 17.5%, Seimaibuai 65%, Acidity 1.8."  Sake Two was indeed more structured - chewy and with a very nice balance of alcohol and sugar - and cloudy. First time I'd had one like this, and very happy to have done so. Good earthy rice feel with a soft alcohol punch on the back end.  

It was being paired with the Suimono (means Soup) and Tsukuri (means Raw, alternate word for Sashimi) courses. Very little booze offerings will pair well with soup but tonight would prove an exciting exception. Alone, the Japanese Clear Soup was light spice liquid with a hint of salted potato and leek. It did feel a little bit snuzz on its own but when supped with the sake it gave rise to a supercharged fire which cleansed the tonsils and throat like a blowtorch. All Whoosh and tickling grip. Definitely a new experience with sake. The Conger Eel got a bit lost in the mix - no note on the taste or texture.

Japanese Clear Soup with Blanched Conger Pike Eel and Yellow Chives
The Sashimi was a bit mixed - someone asserted that the Maguro (tuna) was apparently Moroccan which explained the sense of "okay only" in taste and texture, though the Kanpachi (Amberjack) was a clean bite and firm chew without coming across as overly fishy. The accompanying vegetables were way better - fresh, crisp and full of powerful tastes coalescing across the top of the mouth in a frenzy of peppery radish and carrot fireworks. But it was the wasabi that was the star - freshly grated with a brilliant zappy mustard smack up the nostrils. The sashimi did bring out a fuller body in the Sake - got smoke and bite with a hint of coffee and flinty stonefruit. 

Slices of Raw Fish: Tuna and Amberjack
Sake Three (Chikurin Fukamari Junmai) came out in a soy sauce kind of receptacle. The previous had been consumed in traditional shot ceramic style shot glass shape things. So presumably this would be the business. And it sort of was, in a hot kind of way. The notes talked about a mellow aroma reminiscent of fragrant fruit blossoms. Dry, yet with great umami from the brown unmilled rice. Alcohol content 15%, Seimaibuai 60%, Acidity 1.3. 

I got lemon curd and heat, and sherbet for some reason on this one. Someone said that heating sake should only be done with the lower level offerings since the heating process impacts the structure of the drink. It's a bit like adding ice or water to whiskey - okay with the blends but you really shouldn't mess with the single malts. Which would seem a bit strange given that the third one to come out was to presumably be the business and was being served hot. Maybe I heard wrong. It happens. Getting a bit conversationally deaf in loud environments.

Kanpei!!
Sake Three was being paired with the remaining four courses: the Yakimono (means Pan Fried), Shinogi, Shokuji and Kanmi (couldn't find definitions for these last three).  

We were all pretty merry by this time given that both Sakes One and Two were well on their way to being fully chugged. At some time in the night, one tends to stop really caring about the subtleties of the pairing and just wants to chug down and have some fun. We were pretty close to this point in the night. Though I soldiered on with notes on the food. Kind of.

The Grilled Butterfish was firm and salted, with a teriyaki-ish kind of crisp baste which thankfully had more salt umami than sticky caramel. The fish felt a shade ordinary in its grilled smoked state, but the star was the sesame paste - it totally rocked with Sake Three. Imagine the smoothest peanut butter you ever tasted and then think of a number and multiply it. This is what Sake Three did to the paste. Wicked and sinfully smooth. And boozy. Wooooooooo…. 

Grilled Butterfish marinated with Miso Bean Paste and Eggplant with Sesame Paste
The next dish out was the Tofu skin which felt a bit delicate and wispy; almost felt a bit scared to eat it in case it blew away. The Konnyaku Jelly had a firmish texture, and was nicely acetic with the vinaigrette and the mustard giving a cute kick. But not really to my taste - it came across like a two day old Tau Foo Fah, that milky gunky bland beancurd dessert you get that slips down the throat and tastes tasteless (except for the syrup that can be added to it). And two day old to boot. Not my favourite. 

Tofu Skin in Konnyaku Jelly served with Vinegared Miso and Mustard
The best thing about this one was the Sake - it cleaned off all the gunk that the tofu left in the mouth a treat. Especially at the back of the teeth which got a coating of cold cacky fur - better than a mouthful of Steradent for doing the job. Perhaps this was the charm of the dish - getting your teeth cleaned by the sake. 

The Veg and Rice was quite hearty and hugely welcome. Although a shade stodgy in a wholewheat kind of way, the rice helped to pacify a belly that was screaming for some carbo. 

Edible Japanese Wild Vegetables and Mushroom Rice
The dessert melon was very very sweet. The taste of the grapes somehow got reversed when they got served as dessert - the green grapes were lovely crisp and sweet fruity bites whereas the black ones were somehow off. Not sure if it was the way they had been kept in the interim or whether the Sake does something to the tastebuds. Odd. 

Japanese Melon, Okayama Pione and Muscat Grapes
Then, strange of strange, there was a Lucky Draw. Whether this is usual in Japanese Culture I did not find out. In Chinese culture for certain lucky draws are part and parcel of big gatherings, but with Japanese company this was a new one. And yes, it happened - the new friend on the table who moans that he or she never wins anything and then suddenly their number comes up and they scream in wild delight. Makes you want to spit. 

Some more Sake for you? Hai!! er, please...
The Lucky Draw necessitated translators for the number calling. The important chap making the draw had such a thick accent in his English speaking voice that he could not be understood in his pronunciation of the numbers of the winners. Thankfully someone was on hand to translate and enunciate. Could have been worse - imagine if someone had decided to have a Bingo session - nightmare.

The service on the night was mostly pleasant and unobtrusive, with staff clearing plates with minimal fuss and interference though with good humour when needed. 

Kampachi kitchen staff and crew
In sum, quite a number of people seemed to see the evening as one of brilliant oysters, good sake, but with the rest of the food a bit snuzz and not enough of it. "Averagely all right" as someone put it. I have some degree of sympathy. Although the dishes were pleasant and made for interesting pairings with the Sake, there really wasn't enough food to satisfy. I heard a few grumblings of "Let's go for Char Kwey Teow," and when I have to scarf down a hunk of bread, butter and honey on arrival home to quell the angry grumbles in the gut then something is clearly amiss. Granted that Japanese cuisine is notably lacking in the carbo stakes and granted that my Western belly demands carbo to stave off the gastric, but this felt like a larger than usual gap in the feeling full stakes. And this in the face of a decent bowl of the mushroom rice that got swiftly polished just before the dessert. More volume was definitely needed to soak up the sake. But then we did consume a fair chug of it across the evening, so I guess these things might be relative - when we drink more, we need to eat more to soak it up. Maybe. But it's not every Japanese dinner that necessitates a honey sandwich before bedtime.

IWFS KL Past President Tony Narisawa, IWFS Roppongi President Dennis Tanaka and friend
On leaving, Big Tony called us over. He had a spare jug of Sake which he was pouring for everyone and insisted on a final "Kanpei" with us and friend Dennis who had hosted our IWFS Roppongi trip in February 2014.  Which we did. Knows how to enjoy his food and wine does Tony. Top man and top marks for a good night. Just wish we could have had a bit more food…

MENU

PRE DINNER AND DRINKS
Summer Day 
Sake and Sweet Sour mix

Hamo no Honkiri
Conger Pike Eel Demonstration

ZENSAI
Nama Gaki Ponzu, tomato no Ikomi Wasabi Dressing
Fresh Oyster with Homemade Japanese Citrus Vinaigrette;
Stuffed Tomato with Green Asparagus, Pumpkin, Prawn, Potato and Spaghetti Squash with Wasabi Dressing

Pairing with Sakura Muromachi Bizen Maboroshi

SUIMONO
Togan Jiru Hamo Kuzuuchi Kinira
Japanese Clear Soup with Blanched Conger Pike Eel and Yellow Chives

Pairing with Bosatsumoto Nigorisyu Hiire

TSUKURI
Maguro, Kanpachi
Slices of Raw Fish: Tuna and Amberjack

YAKIMONO
Managatsuo Saikyoyaki Nasu Gomayose
Grilled Butterfish marinated with Miso Bean Paste and Eggplant with Sesame Paste

Pairing with Chikurin Fukamari Junmai

SHINOGI
Yuba Konnyaku Karashi Sumiso
Tofu Skin in Konnyaku Jelly served with Vinegared Miso and Mustard

SHOKUJI
Okayamasan Sansai to Kinoko no Takikomi Gohan
Edible Japanese Wild Vegetables and Mushroom Rice

KANMI
Melon, Pione, Muscat
Japanese Melon, Okayama Pione and Muscat Grapes