IWFS KUALA LUMPUR PRESIDENT’S DINNER 2017 AT SAGE RESTAURANT

DECEMBER 9th 2017

Short Version

What a fantastic evening at the President's Dinner held at the newly renovated Sage last week! Superb food, excellent wines, and a wonderful ambiance created by the attending members who were clearly in the mood to enjoy everything. Clinking glasses, string quartet, lots of laughter - a wonderful way to ring in the Festive Season. 

The President's Dinner is the Premiere event of our IWFS Kuala Lumpur Calendar, and is always a fantastically fun evening. Wines were selected for pairing by the Wine Sub Committee team, with WSC Chairman Dr Stephen Hall for the wine notes. Especial thanks to Dato Jeremy Diamond for his key role in the organisation and for his kind donation of some XO Cognac to help our attendees enjoy a perfect nightcap to the evening.

Dato Jeremy and President David

And thanks to the tremendous generosity of our members and our suppliers, the IWFS Kuala Lumpur PD Wine Auction once again was able to raise RM200,000 for our target charities. IWFS KL President David Teh was overwhelmed at the response: "I personally thank all of our members and suppliers who found it in their hearts to support our Society's drive. Our charities this year are all in deep and serious need of funds," he said. "The contributions and donations will massively help to support their various missions. Thank. You."

Well done to the IWFS KL President's Dinner team for organising yet another hugely successful event! 

Follow that Star...  and get the party started!

Long Version

The IWFS President's Dinner – the Society’s black tie gala dinner – was once again be held at Sage Restaurant at the Gardens Hotel at Mid Valley in Kuala Lumpur. There was again discussion as to whether to have the dinner at a different venue, but again the alternatives just did not measure up to the service and quality of Chef Daniel's kitchen. The organisation of the President’s Dinner has been honed to quite a fine art and, as the saying goes, “if it isn’t broke, then don’t fix it”. The team know us and what our requirements and expectations are, and whilst we still go over the finer points, Sage continually delivers above the line performance across the board. The Governor once again took the lead in liaising with the Sage. Perhaps this is why things go so smoothly - no one wants to incur the withering silent glare of a disgruntled Governor. 

The friendly wine auction to support designated charities (see below) was once again held, and again the delivery of all the booze was expertly handled by the staff of Vintry under the supervision of Committee Member Wong Yin-How. His team also handled the compilation, notes, and printing of lists for the auction. No small job, I can tell you. Kudos, peeps. 

Steven, Paul and Sanjeev

In his speech, President David noted the award of a grant to the IWFS KL from the regional supervisory body, the IWFS Asia Pacific Zone (APZ). Such grants are apparently available for (among other things) the purchase of special wines for special occasions. It was felt appropriate to buy some special fizz to recognise the generosity of the IWFS KL members for their continual and massive generosity in giving to the charities every year. Which they did. And so lovely it was - the Billecart-Salmon Brut and Rose went down a total treat. Lovely, lovely bubbly, clean and slaking and rich chewy mouth with an effervescent ring through the alimentaries. 

Ria, May and Chris

It was one of those nights when both food and wines were exceptionally good. You could not pick a winner out of all of them. Though perhaps the Chateau Leoville Las Cases, St Julien 2008 took it by the finest of noses. And finishes. Without taking anything away from the Chablis (Domaine Jacques Carillon, Puligny Montrachet 2014) or the Burgundy (Dom Dubreuil-Fontaine, Corton Bressandes Grand Cru, Cote de Beaune 2012) the Bordeaux was darn near perfect - clean, full, darkly fruit driven, excellent balance and with a finish like Lewis in the rain. 

Foodwise, the first course stunned nicely with the hit of wasabi mayo and cheek nipping parsley with the ultra fresh Prawn, which got contrasted with the mouthful of beef cheek in rich Madeira sauce for total squidgy yum which the fizz destroyed to leave a perfect numb gunky film which needed more fizz to scrape off.

Tempura of White Shell Prawn and Mijote of Beef Cheek

Second course of cold Somen noodle was the carbo hit with scallop that felt a bit underdone, though the caviar sparkled with the Rose.

I didn't initially get the Royal of Snow Crab - it felt ordinary, like out of a tin and into the soup for a lumpy heated result. But looking back, I see that the miso pulled it together, and set off the firm crab with excellent umami. It is a taste that has remained with me - umami crab of texture and bite and somehow resonating even now. Odd - nothing at the table yet echoes in the sensory memory. But the wine wasa stunner here - the Puligny was total business, all honey apple and oak whack and crisp as a late frost in spring. Wonderful wine. 

Hotate and Somen

I missed the cleanser and went straight into the lamb. Two magnificent ribs generously caked with tender meat. Felt like it come straight off the farm and carved in the kitchen and thrown into the oven and baked to perfection. Cracking piece of meat, which went perfectly with both of the reds.Belter of a pairing, and worth the entrance fee. I actually remember eating the dessert (well, wolfing it) and thoroughly enjoying it with the Sauterne and thinking, "wow, this is good, man." Can't remember a thing about it now. 

The amazing Lamb

We were also in receipt of a donation of Fine Cognac to round off the evening by a generous donor, who wanted to remain anonymous, and it turned out as a perfect way to round out the evening. Apparently -  I have sworn off spirit; makes the heart pump like a goat in season. I contented myself with pouring off some of the criminal remains of the Bordeaux left by the attendees on the table. Two were seriously untouched, and I railed internally against the criminality of such an abandonment whilst happily chugging the precious leftover liquid down the hatch. Will have to get the staff to pour less so that those who do appreciate the larger volumes will be well stated. Mossie should be ecstatic. Well, he will be if he ever comes to one...

Dessert

And thanks to the tremendous generosity of our members and our suppliers, the IWFS Kuala Lumpur PD Wine Auction once again was able to raise RM200,000 for our target charities (note:  some donations still coming in, so RM200K been exceeded). IWFS KL President David Teh was overwhelmed at the response: "I personally thank all of our members and suppliers who found it in their hearts to support our Society's drive. Our charities this year are all in deep and serious need of funds," he said. "The contributions and donations will massively help to support their various missions. Thank. You."

And everyone complied with the Formal Black Tie dress code! Even remembered the medallions!! Well done members!

Nenad, Ania and Sanjeev

THE CHEF AND HIS CUISINE

Chef K K Chong a.k.a. Daniel maintains a standard in preparation and presentation that comes from his many years of dedication to the art of food. Having spent years learning from Chef Takashi Kimura at both the Cilantro and the Sage restaurants, Chef Daniel took the helm of the Sage kitchen when completion of Cilantro renovations necessitated Chef Kimura's return. 

Chef Daniel is hugely dedicated to both the preparation and presentation of food, and consistently delivers some of the finest Japanese French fusion cuisine in the region. He has said: "Food is like a work of art. The plate is my canvas. The ingredients are my paint. The customers are my critique."  

Yin-How and Wendy

THE MENU

Note – wines are added in the food and sauce to enhance the flavour of the dish

First Course

Tempura of White Shell Prawn

Mijote of Beef Cheek with Madeira Sauce

Billecart  Salmon Brut  Reserve NV

Second Course

Somen Noodle with Caramelised Hotate, Mirugai and Caviar

Billecart Salmon Brut Rose Reserve NV

Third Course

Royale of Snow Crab with Sea Urchin and Ohba

Domaine Jacques Carillon, Puligny Montrachet 2014

Palate Cleanser

Calpis Granite

Main Course

Fish – Oven Baked Miso Marinated Black Cod Fish with Foie Gras

Alternatively

Lamb - Slow Cooked Almond Crusted Hillside Lamb Rack with Blue Cheese Sauce

Alternatively 

Beef – Black Angus Beef Striploin with Daikon Sauce

Dom Dubreuil-Fontaine, Corton Bressandes Grand Cru, Cote de Beaune 2012

Chateau Leoville Las Cases, St Julien 2008

Dessert

Flambe of Granny Smith Apple with Shortbread Crumble and Cinnamon Honey Ice Cream

Chateau de Farques, Sauterne 2006

Coffee or Tea

Fine Brandy

Paul and Molly with President David

THE WINES

Billecart  Salmon Brut  Reserve NV

Billecart Salmon is one of the few remaining family-owned houses of a significant size. The house style is described by Antoine Roland Billecart as “freshness, elegance, a fruit style and wine style. We always want to remind you that champagne is a wine. We are not about alcohol chasing for maturity, we are more into freshness.”(www.winesearcher.com). The cold fermentation, zero dosage and higher than usual Pinot Meunier percentage produces delicacy, a fine bead and a long complex finish enjoyed by numerous aficionados, wine writers and Champagne lovers.

Billecart Salmon Brut Rose Reserve NV

An elegant and super refined mousse bursts with wild strawberry aromatics, while being crisp and refreshing on the long and broad palate. The pale salmon colour is a notable feature of this complex rose, which unusually includes 50 percent chardonnay. James Halliday rating this renowned drop at 94 points says ” I cannot remember ever having a glass of Billecart rose that disappointed me.” A shared experience. Decanter, 95 pts (Dec 2016), James Suckling 94 pts, Wine Spectator 93 pts, Wine Enthusiast 92 pts.

Domaine Jacques Carillon, Puligny Montrachet 2014

From the heartland of Burgundy’s finest Chardonnays comes a village level classic, stretching beyond expectations. Since 2010 Francois and Jacques Carillon, Louis Carillon's sons, have created their own labels they are making a name for their well- crafted approach to all vintages. Hints of nectarine and white peaches nestle in a linear framework now knitting together in a taut, yet intriguing style.  Antonio Galloni 90 pts, Tim Atkin, 93 pts, Burghound, 90 pts.

Dom Dubreuil-Fontaine, Corton Bressandes Grand Cru, Cote de Beaune 2012

While still young for a classic Pinot Noir, the nature of the challenging vintage makes for a rounded, less linear style than one may ordinarily expect from this pedigree. Growers were rescued by September sunny days, so that the small quantities of Beaune 2012 are usually rewarding in their youth. The wine is light in appearance, while more opulent in the strawberry and gamey notes. The elegance should satisfy those who can be a little patient as the layers of this Grand Cru unfold.

Chateau Leoville Las Cases, St Julien 2008

I quote from Wine Doctor Chris Kissack, as he has had a chance to crack this beauty. Classics like this have sparked debates about whether 2008 is under rated compared to the much praised 2009 and 2010 vintages .

“The wine is 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Cabernet Franc and 12% Merlot. The ultimate yield for the estate was 37.9 hl/ha. What a captivating nose! Intense black cherry fruit, minerally and pure, crunchy but rich, layered with cream and vanilla. Pure, but as the nose suggests stunningly rich and intense, and broad. Elegant tannins, firm yet silkily textured, really stylish yet with real depth and concentration. A great tannic core which is only really evident at the finish. Great length. A fabulous effort”.  Numerous 90 point plus ratings.

Chateau de Farques, Sauterne 2006

Sauterne from a non-interventionalist winery which is awakening desert wine lovers’ and wine writers’ interest with great value and complex, honeyed purity. Wine Enthusiast rated this at 94 points describing the ‘stickie’ as : A firm, densely structured wine, with the sweetness turned as much into richness. The flavors are of Seville orange zest, the richness coming from honey and almonds, balanced with dry botrytis. An impressive wine that needs time for aging. 

Many thanks to the Wine Sub Committee team for selecting the wines and WSC Chairman Dr Stephen Hall for the wine notes. 

Ania and Kit

If you would like to see the Auction Wines List and details of the charities supported, please click here>>

Stellar Sage! IWFS President's Dinner December 13 2013

The Doc and the Lenglui

Ho hum. Another December, another IWFS KL President's Dinner. It does occasionally feel so easy to take the idea of being able to go to these parties for granted. But as far as possible it is better to bear in mind that those of us who do go to these things are very very privileged indeed. Finding oneself somewhere in the top one per cent of humanity being able to feed themselves on some of the finest epicurean creations the planet has to offer. Unbelievable. Certainly a far cry from a bag of Fish and Chips from the corner bar on a rainy night home from the pub. Always good to remember the past to see how far we fly. And how far we can fall just as easily. 

The Scribe and the Lenglui

The President's Dinner for 2013 saw 75 pre Christmas revellers decked out in their best bibs, tuckers and frocks and party down at the Sage Restaurant in The Gardens. Lenglui looked especially stunning on the night in white Prada and Chanel. Elegant and chic. Made me breathless and in need of a steadying glass. Which came. Copiously. The Sage staff were extremely generous with their pourings of Bollinger Brut Reserve Champagne, though apparently there was still some remaining at the end. Everyone was in the mood to party. Perhaps it was the special sense of the IWFS KL reaching sixty years. Which is older than most of the members. As usual, I managed to miss the canapes - got a bit busy doing the rounds and taking potshots of the assembled. 

"Smile dear!"   "I am smiling..."

Our President's Dinner is always a Black Tie affair, though somehow this message doesn't always seem to make it through. There were again one or two attendees without Black Tie. I never used to subscribe too much to the concept of dress code, but having done it for the last few years it really does lend a great sense of occasion. In my three year experience the IWFS has never previously been seen to stand too much on ceremony in this aspect, though this time a few grumblings made their way to my ears. I smell a resolution requiring members to ensure that guests are properly attired on pain of a flogging in the bathroom. 

Foodwise, the Foie Gras Risotto was excellent - textured, full of French umami and brilliantly off the map. The Doc is refusing to take the Foie Gras because of the way they force feed the geese. Having seen photos, I may not be far behind. Quite hideous.

Risotto of Foie Gras with Black Truffle

The Salmon and Avocado Mouselline was also a belter, with its liberal douse of truffle oil and the salty caviar crunch. A brilliant foundation for the mellow but lively and concentrated Te Koko. The age seems to give a hint of a Semillon feel but the Sauvignon Blanc shone clearly through. So, so nice.

The Lafon Meursault was a cracker with the Foie Gras - rich and beechnut woody with lovely balance across the palate. Someone naturally whinged that the FG needed an Yquem to which the response was a general "yeeee--eees…..  well anyway, cheers!" Didn't stop them quaffing the Meursault, though.

Slow Cooked Hillside Lamb Rack with Shiromiso and Blue Cheese Sauce

I had the lamb which was wonderful. Tender as a supermodel's butt, this lightly seared darling was so good with the gooeey salt of the attendant blue cheese sauce. Zippy and acidic with the lean lamb meat - first class. Pairing it with the 2008 Leoville Barton was a no brainer, though the youth of the wine raised a slight question. The LB was indeed overflowing with youthful vitality and clearly a lot of life and zip is there for time to do its stuff with the rest of the bottles in our stock. Perhaps a bit on the lean side, though with fair fruit and lovely sleek balance. Great bordeaux wine, one of our favourites. 

Wagyu Beef Striploin

The Muga was plush and crisp with a firm grip and possessed of a bold mouth with a bit of Spanish sweetness. It did sterling matador work with the little steal of wagyu I pinched from the Doc. Even balance, rich fruit, a very tasty drop of structured Spanish terroir. 

Dessert got swallowed swiftly and the bread was as stellar as it ever is at the Sage. I remember sipping the Sauternes and finding it not oversweet with good crisp fruit and a smooth but not too syrupy mouthfeel. Again, a very well balanced wine which seemed to be the hallmark of all the wines on the night. Firm, full, even. Another stellar evening at the Sage - still the absolute best in town for us.

The Wines and the Auctioneers

As recorder and spotter for the upcoming fund raising auction, I felt half a need to keep a fairly sober sheet - well, at least until my duties had been discharged. This became difficult when an open bottle of the 2008 Leoville Barton somehow appeared near the place where I had parked my glass. Sometimes the signs from the gods are perfectly crystal clear. 

Chef Daniel and team

The auction raised RM125,680. The charities supported for the year remained the Beautiful Gate Foundation for the Disabled and the Damai Disabled Persons Association, both in Petaling Jaya in Selangor. Members can be very generous when they want to be. Just have to make sure they wear their bow ties next time.

Kin Mun and Vanya

THE MENU

Appetizers

Tuna Otoro with Aioli and Nori

Kampachi King Fish with Salted Kelp

Bollinger Brut Reserve Champagne NV

First Course

Seared Smoked Norwegian Salmon with Avocado Mousseline and Avruga Caviar

Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc Te Koko 2008, Marlborough, New Zealand

Second Course

Risotto of Foie Gras with Noix de Saint Jacques and Black truffle

Domaine Comtes Lafon Meursault, 2007

Palate Cleanser

Soursop Granite

Main Courses

Slow Cooked Hillside Lamb Rack with Shiromiso and Blue Cheese Sauce 

Or

Wagyu Beef Striploin with Mashed Potato and Natural Juice

Bodegas Muga Selecion Especiale, 2005, Spain

Chateau Leoville Barton 2008, Bordeaux, France

Dessert

Calvados Glace with Fuji Apple and Almond Gougat

Chateau Guiraud Premier Grand Cru Classe, 2005, Sauterne, France

           

Coffee or Tea

Serena, Prakash and Y C Yap

THE WINES

Bollinger Brut Reserve Champagne NY

It is three years under sixty since Bollinger appeared as James Bond’s virile sophisticated Champagne. Not a pound or franc changed hands in lining up the man with the bubbles. ‘Diamonds are Forever’ was the movie and lovers of the masculine full bodied wine have known for decades that this non-vintage has crystalline elegance. Depth is balanced by a weighty mid palate and a biscuit, long finish.

Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc Te Koko 2008, Marlborough, New Zealand

Te Koko o Kupe (The Oyster Dredge of Kupe) is named after a mythical Maori super hero warrior and it is the original name of sweeping Cloudy Bay on the Marlborough coast line. If you aim high in Maori names, you have to justify it. So we have an oak-aged Wairau Valley, harvested ripe from five sites and matured for a year on lees. There is fleshy complexity in a long non-herbaceous style. Rated a Super Classic by renowned Kiwi, Michael Cooper.

Domaine Comtes Lafon Meursault 2007, Burgundy

This biodynamic Chardonnay from some of the deepest cellars in Burgundy is brimming with the balance of a carefully crafted and weighty white. It is tempting to passionately enjoy the creaminess, nuttiness and ripe fruit balance with a substantial finish in sheer delight. We suggest you do linger over this Meursault as it evolves in the glass, if you can.

Bodegas Muga Seleccion Especiale 2005, Spain

Fruit and evolved complexity are led by a multifaceted aroma which shows why aged styles from Rioja hold their own. Critics from both sides of the Atlantic lavish 93 points on wines like this from this particular vintage. Elegance in the plum, black raspberry, vanillin and tarry notes of this Tempranillo dominant classic are structured towards a very long finish.

Chateau Leoville Barton 2008, Bordeaux

Ripe, opulent and bold in an inky brawny Saint Julien style. Aged in 60 percent new oak, this is an intense Cabernet Sauvignon dominant wine with a long sweet finish and a strong tannic backbone. This rich, young wine shows the winemaker’s skills in an uneven vintage. (Robert Parker 92 points, Jancis Robinson, 16.5)

Chateau Guiraud Premier Grand Cru Classe 2005, Sauterne

The fruit for this classic style is grown on over 40 year old Semillon and Sauvignon vines and after noble rot imparts its fickle pleasures, the wine aged is for over two years. The 2005 Guiraud has a bouquet with dried honey, marmalade and just a hint of minerality emerging with aeration. The palate is medium bodied with a viscous entry, crisp acidity, touches of beeswax and almond define the harmonious waxy textured finish. It has already evolved into a delectable Sauternes. (Robert Parker 93) 

Cheers!!