IWFS KL President Dinner 2016 at Sage - most excellent!

December 3rd 2016

The President's Dinner – the Society’s black tie gala dinner and the Premiere event of our IWFS Kuala Lumpur Calendar – was once again being held at Sage Restaurant on Saturday, 3rd December. It had been decided to bring it forward this year to avoid a clash with an overseas IWFS event being staged the following weekend. And to have deferred the dinner to the following week would have impinged too much on the Yuletide Holidays. So forward it had to come.

Sage ambiance in natural light

There was also much discussion as to whether to hold the dinner at a new venue. It was ultimately decided to remain with Sage for this year – Committee felt Chef Daniel’s creations remain at the forefront of excellent cuisine in Kuala Lumpur and both the food and wine service continue to be the standard for others to attain. And it is nice to go back there at least once a year and get all dolled up in best bibs and tuckers and frocks. Like going to revisit an old friend. Which was made more attractive by the anonymous donations to the dinner of 6 bottles of Bollinger and a case of 2001 Chateau Pichon-Lalande to be supped with the dinner. This also apparently helped in keeping the dinner price at the same RM550 whilst allowing the Society to maintain the standard of wines expected of an IWFS Dinner and keeping costs sufficiently attractive for the Rakyat to sign up. 

It had also been decided that some musical entertainment would help in establishing an elegant tone for the evening. Which some might take to infer that inelegant tones had been established at previous IWFS beanos which is far from the case. As a result, a string quartet had been engaged to perform during the dinner and sponsored by Mrs President Teh Pitt Lee who was showered with thanks all through the evening.

Table setting in natural light

One downside of bringing the President Dinner forward was that many of the big hitters at the charity wines auction would not be in attendance. Seems they were all together overseas and only returning on the 4th. Equally, it had been voiced that given the present state of the economy then perhaps expecting similar auction proceeds as in previous years might be misplaced. Didn't stop the bottle donations from the members though - got a healthy 40 lots for the night which was most generous. The charities were once again the Special Children's Society of Ampang (SCSA) and Society for the Severely Mentally Handicapped, Selangor and Federal Territory (SSMH). Both of these organisations carry out tremendous work in enabling those less able than most to gain degrees of independence that would otherwise remain beyond wild dreams. Worth to check out their websites to see the work they do - www.scsoa.org.my       www.ssmh.org.my

As a Committee member who got invited to some of their lunches, I had seen first-hand the work that is carried out and the severe disabilities the kids (and their parents) at these places look to cope with. The staff and volunteers are phenomenal people who make a point to assure the members of their grateful appreciation for the support that the IWFS KL affords them.

The Pichon, Smith Haut Lafitte and the Volnay. Yum.

At last year's dinner, the remarkable generosity of our members by way of cash and wine auction bids meant that IWFS Kuala Lumpur raised RM190,000 in one single night. Anecdotally, I hear that the IWFS is the envy of the fund raising community - they marvel at the fact that we can raise so much with comparatively little effort. We had been exhorted by President David in the Dinner Notice to "please dig deep into the pocket and raid the wine fridge or cellar with reckless abandon. The funds raised go to exceedingly worthy destinations. The bar has been raised. Let us seek to excel." 

As I had been landed with being one of the auctioneers and also in charge of organising the seating, I decided to get there early just to check all was on schedule. Thankfully it was - as Maitre' D had earlier promised in email exchanges, the menus had been printed with attendees names and placed according to my layout. Perfect. I was able to scuttle off to the loo to climb into the monkey suit in peace. 

Chef final checking whilst President makes a speech 

Committee Members started arriving in quick succession, each sorting out their own responsibilities. Arranging the auction booze on the tables proved a bit time consuming - there was a need to make sure they were all placed in order so as to avoid an incorrect bottle being knocked down. Other members and squeezes started pitching up, and corks popped on schedule at 7.20pm with all the six donated Bollys getting quaffed within ten minutes. I think they were good - they barely touched the sides of the collective throat. It was then on to the Jacquessons which proved delightful. All attendees so far had proven wonderfully compliant with the dress code of Black Tie and Elegant Dress, though Doctor Willie showed up not wearing the Medallion - we withheld his glass of bubbles until he had rectified the transgression. The fizz went fantastically well with the firm and amazingly textured Ocean Trout canapes. The Duck was equally good, though it paled a bit in the shadow of the Trout. In fairness, Beluga Caviar would have paled - the Trout was that good. 

I find that there is something… affirming and pleasant in seeing everyone decked out and resplendent in their finery. Dare I say the word "class" but it does come close. Looking classy and being a member of a group that gets the privilege to do so and go to these kind of parties is something I feel we should never take for granted. "We are truly privileged," I said to Mizz Kit as we walked from the fizz into the room. She agreed. 

And before anyone points the finger and says "You were there in company other than Lenglui??!??" - yes, no Lenglui on the night. She had been called to a family gathering in Singoland and was missing the fun. The delightful Mizz Kit was my carriage for the night, with her godson doing a bit of part time private driving for a few shekels. No need to worry about staying in reasonable shape for driving for a welcome change. 

The Kiwi and Squeeze. Make that Doctor Squeeze...

We all started to get seated, but not before one slight wrinkle caused by someone who had sought to change the seating by shifting the named menus around without consulting me. I snapped at the suspected individuals concerned that to have attempted to do so was extremely bad form, completely unacceptable and totally unbecoming of the behaviour to be expected of IWFS KL Members. The member concerned sought to blame his/her guest for making the attempted seat change. Hmmm. I stormed off after replacing the menus in their correct places. Pissed me right off - had to go for an extra glass of fizz to ease down. Some people have no respect for these things, eh? Thankfully all this got resolved before anyone had actually sat down - might have been fireworks otherwise. 

President David got up and gave what felt like a somewhat lengthy but ultimately very good welcome speech (well, he is a Rotarian - my experience is they will get up and make a speech at the slightest prompting) and then we were off. I made few to no notes of the dishes or wines, preferring to just sit back and enjoy the whole experience. Though the first course Carpaccio of Buri fish was a knockout. Those of us who saved some of the fizz could sip it with the dollop of Avruga Caviar parked on the plate. Wicked dish. I found the accompanying Remondo clean and lean and in great balance though perhaps a shade puny and lacking sufficient oomph in looking to face down the fish. The Risotto and Foie Gras in Port Wine Sauce was another rich and sinful experience, made all the more so with the chunks of bread and butter on which the Foie Gras got spread and sucked. O my Lord…  The Volnay was an excellent choice, all sweet apples and steel minerality. Lovely wine. 

Carpaccio of Buri Fish

As dinner began, the string quartet had begun playing. During soundcheck, I had thought them a tad loud and wondered if they would drown the room. It proved not - their tunes were loud enough to be heard but not so that they overwhelmed conversation. Thoughtful selection of music too - classics, musicals, operettas - very tasteful and indeed setting an elegant tone. 

The Kiwi and I did our first stint of auctioning and seemed to get a fair response bid-wise before getting back to the table for the Lamb. Two cutlets together which produced a startlingly good mouthful of the most tender juicy meat. The mouth is salivating at the memory of it - succulent, perfect texture, perfectly cooked. It was a no brainer going with the Pichon Lalande which was spot on form. Though the wine of the night was the 2005 Smith Haut Lafitte - full, velvet, power, finish and totally delectable with the lamb. Great pairing. 

The brilliant and tasty Rack of Lamb

The second auction session was a bit more intense, with some of the serious bottles coming under the hammer (or knuckles in my case - I was rapping the lectern with them when the lot got knocked down for effect). It has also become tradition to sing "Happy Birthday" to the winning bidder, this having been initiated by the Dato Gang at previous auctions. It breaks ice and gives the recorders time to accurately note who actually made the bid and get their details. 

Dessert

The last lot got knocked down and the winners of a silent auction got announced and it was back to the table for dessert and the delightful Kracher which lived up to its name - crunchy fruit and slippery honey brilliantly balanced and sipping like a drop of nectar from Dionysus himself. 

President David and Chef Daniel

President David had also decided to honour Chef K K Chong a.k.a. Daniel with a Certificate for his continuing application to turning out amazing dishes for us punters. Having spent years learning from Chef Takashi Kimura at both the Cilantro and the Sage restaurants, Chef Daniel took the helm of the Sage kitchen when completion of Cilantro renovations necessitated Chef Kimura's return. Over our time and association with Sage, Chef Daniel has shown himself hugely dedicated to both the preparation and presentation of food, and consistently delivers some of the finest Japanese French fusion cuisine in the region. He has said: "Food is like a work of art. The plate is my canvas. The ingredients are my paint. The customers are my critique." Chef did seem a shade overwhelmed by the three cheers he received after his thank you speech. Good for him - he is driven by the search for excellence and the stretch of his creativity to find it. He deserves every accolade available. 

Singing up a storm!

There seemed to be a late flurry of activity as people sought to add donations (prompting President to go to the microphone to announce them) with the result that the total raised was not far off previous years efforts. Which is actually darn well done and a big hearty thank you to everyone who donated. Serious props and kudos to all - the charities will be well pleased. 

And that was it. Most left in search of carriages or Uber whilst the usual diehards cracked open whatever was left - some fizz and dessert as memory serves - and sang up some songs. Sadly all the red had gone though there were swathes of both the Pichon and the SHL left in glasses on the table. I fail to understand how people can not drink such magnificent wines as these and at this time of the night the little wine devil inside takes over and demands that it be consumed. It just feels totally sacrilegious to leave something that the winemaker has poured his or her soul into creating to the ignominious fate of the kitchen sink. Consequently, a couple of the SHLs got poured into a glass which became my one for the road. And a wonderful one it was too. That little wine devil can make shame take a back seat when it comes to booze that is this good. 

This will probably be the last post before Christmas, so all my best wishes and compliments of the Festive Season to everyone and a hope that 2017 will be a happy, healthy and safe one for you and your loved ones. With lots of great food, wine and great times with great friends. Cheers!

Cheers!!

THE MENU

Note – wines are added in the food and sauce to enhance the flavour of the dish

Canapés

Glazed Duck Breast with Daikon, Confit Ocean Trout with Shiokombu

Bollinger Champagne NV

Jacquesson 737 NV Bollinger Brut Reserve Champagne NV

First Course

Carpaccio of Buri Fish with Avruga Caviar and Wasabi Kotsuka

Placet Palacios Remondo 2012

Second Course

Buckwheat Risotto with Hokkaido Scallop, Foie Gras and Port Wine Sauce

Domaine Comte Lafon Santenots-du-Milieu, Volnay 1er Cru 2011

Palate Cleanser

Fresh Mango Granité with Cointreau Cream

Main Course

Fish – Pan Roasted Tai Fish with Tsubugai and Tonburi Beurre Blanc

Alternatively

Lamb - Slow Cooked Almond Crusted Hillside Lamb Rack with Mustard Sauce

Alternatively

Beef – Black Angus Beef Striploin with Spanish Anchovies Butter and Red Wine Sauce

Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte 2005 

Chateau Pichon-Lalande 2001

Dessert

Adzuki Nougat Glace with Green Tea Anglaise and Tuile

Kracher Beerenauslese Cuvee 2009

Coffee or Tea

A happy bibber

THE WINES

Jacquesson 737 Champagne

A quote from Stephen Tanzer sums up this superb 91 pointer: “Pale gold. Complex, highly fragrant aromas of pear skin, honeydew and orange pith, with musky floral and mineral qualities gaining strength in the glass. Silky and expansive on the palate, offering intense, well-delineated citrus fruit and tarragon flavors lifted by chalky minerality. At once powerful and lithe, finishing with excellent thrust and lingering notes of orange and smoky minerals." Tanzer is one of numerous tasters giving over 90 pts rating.

Bollinger Champagne NV

The Special Cuvée is the result of the delicate blending between harvest grapes and a majority of reserve wines, part of which have been aged in magnums for 5 to 15 years. The blend is constant, drawing on reserve wines for 60% Pinot Noir, 25% Chardonnay and15% Meunier. The grapes are sourced from over 85% Grands and Premiers crus and cellar aged for more than twice the time required by the appellation. And yes, it has long association with Double Oh Seven. He knows about weight, power and elegance. But he knows never to have the Bolly shaken. Or stirred.

Placet Palacios Remondo 2012

This Viura from one of Spain’s most well-known winemakers is a traditional varietal which excels in the Rioja. The little age which we will enjoy adds some nutty notes to the apple and white peach undertones. The 2012 vintage was superb for the Viura (also known as Macabeo) resulting in a complexity that earned a Wine Spectator score of 90 for this wine.

Domaine des Comtes Lafon, Santenots-du-Milieu, Volnay 1er Cru, Burgundy, 2011

PInotphiles will enjoy the aromatics and rich palate elegance of this young, feminine style of Burgundy; “with an elegant, pure and airy essence of red pinot fruit. There is a highly seductive texture to the soil and mineral-inflected middle weight flavors”. Look out for “the inner mouth perfume and the length which is simply stunning." (Burghound 92-94). From a renowned maker we can expect complexity and length in a classic approach. Stephen Tanzer 92 pts, Parker 93 pts

Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte 2005

Smith Haut Lafitte's great terroir of deep Gunzian gravel, with old vines sinking several metres into the soil, produced stupendous results in an excellent year. This Graves has structure which is still youthful in its classic blend of 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot. Robert Parker actually did taste this one and wrote: “The inky/blue/purple-tinged 2005's extraordinary nose reeks of charcoal, incense, scorched earth, abundant blackberry, blueberry, and cherry fruit, toast, and spice. Good acidity, huge but sweet tannin, and fabulous precision as well as definition characterize this full-bodied, super-concentrated effort. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2030+." A trifle young; so some breathing in the glass may open up its possibilities even further.

Parker 95 pts , Wine and Spirits 94 pts, Stephen Tanzer 93.

Chateau Pichon Lalande 2001

The high proportion of Merlot in the blends from Chateau Pichon Lalande is a good reason why this wine, among the great wines of Pauillac, is always so seductive. This vintage has added structure with 36% Petit Verdot. Critics on both sides of the Atlantic rate this ready-to-drink now vintage very highly. Excelling in ripe structure of the finest quality from a highly regarded house, it charms as well as excites with vibrant and deep fruit.The serious tannins and acidity that promised of good aging described in write-ups penned four or five years ago praise a classic. It should offer intense pleasure now, though connoisseurs who answer its request for patience in the glass should be rapturously rewarded. Wine Enthusiast 95 pts, Robert Parker 93 pts, Wine Spectator 93 pts, Stephen Tanzer 92 pts.

Kracher Beerenauslese Cuvee 2009

This prestige sweetie is a renowned Austrian blend which, following some age in our cellar, has gained even greater elegance compared to when it was enjoyed in a previous IWFS pouring. Antonio Gallioni described this 92 pointer as follows: "A rich, deep palette of aromas and flavors emerges from the 2009 Cuvee Beerenauslese. Tropical fruit, peaches, yellow stone fruits and spices flesh out in a wine that is beautifully layered, voluptuous and textured. The blend is 75% Welschriesling and 25% Chardonnay, aged 80% in steel and 20% in cask. Residual sugar is 114 grams per liter. " A sweet, layered and complex finale from a top Austrian specialist grower and maker. Enjoy.

IWFS Kuala Lumpur visit to Champagne, Burgundy and Alsace September 2016 - Day Three

First view of Bollinger

Monday, 26th September 2016

This was a well early start, with all of us checked out and on the bus by 8.30am for a morning drive and visit to Maison Bollinger en route to lunch at Chablis. Wasn't able to eat much for breakfast this morning - still hugely full from the day and night before - so it was just the Cafe 21 instant coffee in the room and downstairs to pack a cheese and meat sandwich in the dining room for the bus. With an upcoming breakfast of bubbles, it would definitely be important to eat something to line the stomach ahead of it. The Gastric Blues are easy to get but they ain't no fun on a moving bus. 

With the luggage all wheeled out and loaded, we were indeed off pretty much on schedule - the fear of fines seemed to be doing its job. One was never quite sure who was taking the notes on the miscreants - I suspected it was The Money. The members seemed pretty chipper and chirpy this morning. Brilliant bright sunshine can do that to people. I put on my sunglasses and tried to nap.

Maison Bollinger

Rolling up and down past and through the Champagne and Chablis countryside in late September sunglass bright sunshine made for some pretty vistas. Cresting one hill, we got one brilliant view of mists in the valleys that raised lots of "waaaaahhs" by the members and a general scrabbling to get photos. I missed it, but it sure was pretty. Like one of those Chinese paintings of distant hills poking up out of the mists. Very atmospheric.

Ms Moneypenny explains the plantings

We turned off the main road and another couple of turn offs got us on to madness one lane tracks and almost impossible corners to negotiate. Fair play to Napoleon the driver (my name for him), he got around them like a pro. Though we had to reverse back up a hill to park up when it was discovered that we were in danger of passing the winery. There would have been a wringing of hands and a strangling of Napoleonic necks should that have happened. Two of our members were positively salivating as they entered this particular Shrine to the Grape - the Bolly is their far and away tipple of choice. Total pilgrimage. Half surprised they didn't take off their shoes and prostrate themselves at the gate. 

There were two sides to the winery - the business end where the booze was made and the Chateau side where the booze was sold. The business end would prove more rustic and functional, with Farmhand and Factory types milling around and looking busy. The Chateau side was where the tasting would take place and was more regal and imposing. 

Stoned at Bollinger

Parking up outside the Bollinger winery, we got met and greeted by a most elegant French lady hostess who promptly took us to a smallish walled in one hectare patch where some of the Bolly grapes got grown. She was decked out in a Gabardine style raincoat and looked for all the world like she came straight from a James Bond movie - all femme fatale who would take no lip from 007 and who seriously knew her booze. I have a vivid imagination on occasion. The vines in this patch were unusually not in any pattern and growing a bit haphazardly compared to the neat rows we normally see elsewhere. There was a reason for this which eludes me at the moment. There was a big tombstone marking the patch as "Bollinger" but no other real indication that this was where the nectar was grown. Everyone seemed well happy just to be here in the sunshine and among grapes that go to make perhaps THE most iconic of champagnes. It certainly felt like a moment.

There was then a trip down to the cellar and the cooper's woodshed and a testing area. Some of the harvest was already in and they were testing for something and making serious notes about it. I think they were testing the weight of the juice and using some bits and pieces of laboratory stuff I vaguely remember from Chemistry classes at school. I was more interested in looking for photo opps - I really should pay more attention.

After a tour of the downstairs where the good stuff was stored, we congregated in a driveway outside the cooper's shed whilst the toilets got found and used before getting ushered off to our liquid breakfast in the Maison. This was where the Maison Bollinger started showing its greatness. Through the wrought iron gates into the totally grand (I think Georgian) chateau style courtyard. There is an amazing sense of primus inter pares - first among equals - about this place compared to Pommery and Ruinart. They just know that there is champagne and there is champagne and there is Bollinger, and they don't have to do anything to reinforce it.  The place just oozes and exudes class. Totally glad we did this place. 

The Pilgrims commune with the Vines whilst Ms Moneypenny talks to James through the MI6 earpiece

Having been suitably awed by the entrance, we got whisked through the door and into the tasting rooms, where the fizz had been prepared and the glassware set out on tables. We just needed to grab chairs and park ourselves and wait for the fizz. In theory - some couldn't wait and started pouring for everyone. I think it might have been one of our Bolly Pilgrims - I saw the tongue was hanging out in dehydration and possibly in the grip of the rapture. I found the toilet and hung up the coat and walking stick. 

David advising members to not leave anything in the tasting bottles because it is bad manners in France to do so

There were about 9 bottles in total for the 22 of us. Part of me was hoping for a fusillade salute of all the corks popping boom at the same time. Not to be - Ms Moneypenny had already opened some of them and did the traditional and professional "whisper" opening with the rest, and quite expertly so. 

Looking around the room, there was a lot of homage to James Bond. There were visuals of JB in Casino Royale and traditional From Russia With Love poses (there was one other for Bond and Bond Girl - possibly Skyfall or Spectre) and Members had fun poking their heads through the cut out holes and, er, Bonding with Bond as photos got taken.  I found myself being about six inches too short for the hole so my doubling chin was hanging off the edge. Not my best photo. Perhaps better as a Bond villain - M'sieur le Boozy Petomane - mai thunderbutt flatulence is lethal. Oui. 



Bollinger NV, Rose and La Grande Annee 2005. Breakfast of Champions. Oui.



We were tasting three Bollys - the Non Vintage, the Rose and the La Grande Annee 2005. The NV had a yeast nose with a bit of musty farmyard stink. Granny Smith apples in the mouth, slightly sour though brilliantly crisp. Great balance, fine bead, good scouring grip on the throat. The Rose had the same yeasty nose, though no farmyard. Light cherries in the mouth, good acidic spritz on the cheeks, less grip and a cleaner finish than the NV. Perfect for breakfast on the Corn Flakes. 

The 2005 was "The Great Year", hence the name. Far less yeast and way more biscuit on the nose, lovely bead. A hugely clean and lean drop of fizz, with citrus taste, some sweet grape with notes of almond and a fast racy finish like Lewis Hamilton at Silverstone. 

Breakfast is served

All three would clearly serve for different purposes - the NV was a chugger with friends, the 2005 needed food whilst the Rose was just delightful. I looked over at the Pilgrims and saw communion, engagement and contentedness - total Nirvana. I found a general clean-ness about the Bolly champagnes, a lessened sense of acidity and somewhat lighter balance than (for example) the Pommerys and Ruinarts, and less of a whack in the chest than many others. Slight differentiation in character perhaps - not bad, just different, and more in line with my preferences. Though quaffing the fizz still made me trumpet and thunder like a moose on the rut. Good thing the toilets were soundproof…

Datin gets cunningly distracted to let Dato' get another slug of the booze. Tony watches with hope for similar

All of the Bond paraphernalia led naturally to the question as to whether our hostess knew who the next Bond was going to be. Ms Moneypenny answered no. But felt for sure he (not she?) would still drink the Bolly - clearly a great relationship had been built up over the years and long it looked like continuing. One of our Pilgrims shared that the Bolly was his favourite and he had been drinking it for more than twenty years - the estimate was that he must have drunk about ten thousand bottles in that time. Another Pilgrim thought she might be catching up with this - she confessed to consuming a case a month by her reckoning. Whether such confessions were made in the hope of more holy liquid getting poured was not clear - in any case, it was unsuccessful. 



Chablis town

We said fond farewells to Ms Moneypenny and Maison Bollinger, and with various and many invites for her to come to Kuala Lumpur. And to bring James and a few bottles with her. Following a general bathroom visit, we were back on the bus and off to our lunch in Chablis. The ride would turn out to be quite a long one, and requiring a stop at some small cafe cum newspaper shop in the middle of nowhere which added about thirty minutes to the journey. 22 people with one single toilet at a minute a head - the math is pretty clear. Napoleon seemed to be happy with the break, spending most of the time talking to someone on his handphone. Some people wanted to sit down and try the food but got verbally smacked as incurring more delay. We picked up some snacks which got shared around the members as we drove off. 

We got to Chablis and found that a short walk along pedestrianised streets was necessary. I had never realised that there was an actual town with the name Chablis - I had always thought of it as an area. It felt a bit quiet and sleepy, though a fair bit of traffic seemed to zip along the main road through the town. The bus rolled up on the cobble pavement at a street just off the main and off we trundled.  

Thought this was the restaurant entrance...

We got to the restaurant just before 2pm and they graciously extended their lunch hours to accommodate us.  Our venue was named Au Fil du Zinc which Dear Leader had billed as "The most exciting restaurant in Chablis with whispers of a probable elevation to 1* soon with a highly regarded Japanese chef. An impressive wine list."  Au Fil Du Zinc is operated by Japanese chef Ryo Nagahama (ex sous chef Joël Robuchon l'Atelier in Taipei), spouse and pastry chef Vanessa Chang and Fabien Espana (7 year manager of Soufflot in Irancy). It does have a mention in the online Michelin guide which says it offers a neo-bistro reinvention of French Cuisine based on fresh (and seasonal) products in a cosy and friendly atmosphere. 

I remember a nice light and refreshingly airy ambience at lunchtime, with lots of natural light and fresh air breezing through the place. There was a small waterfall bubbling and rushing outside and underneath this renovated old mill which clearly helped bring the good "chi" into the place. Very pleasant. 

Another long table had been stretched out to accommodate us and down we sat to nibble on some pretty ordinary cheese bread and good clean water. Must say the French know how to do their bottled water - lots of brand choices and there do seem to be some slight minerality differences across them. Which got me wondering if there are water connoisseurs as there are wine connoisseurs. Champagne for breakfast can make you think these things.

According to the menu, the starter croquette was comprised of mushroom and Pig Feet - if this was indeed what we had. For me it felt like a tasty potato croquette speared with a, er, small spear to trawl the thing through some wasabi dip. Following this first dish was (apparently) some pan fried Bachalau (salt fish) paired with some lemon jelly and a cheesy cream mousse. My notes say the combo was excellent, with the deep salt fish and lemon cutting the airy whisk and milk of the cream - lot of texture and rasp versus whisk going on here. Great mouthfeels, cold creamy cheeks and salty citrus tongue.

Au Fil Du Zinc interior - light and airy

This was being paired with a Bereche et Fils Champagne, name of "Rive Gauche" from the Meunier district. I got a lovely oatmeal biscuit on the nose with sharpish apples in the mouth. Full firm finish that thudded as it hit bottom. Less refined than our breakfast tipple, but loads of character. Perhaps a shade heavy in weight for a starter fizz, but no one was complaining.  I stole Lenglui's speared croquette to taste with the fizz. It was perfect - light food and heavier weight biscuit fizz. Om….

Cold Corn Soup and Cromesqui de Foie Gras

Second wine was a 2010 Chablis Grand Cru from Domaine Francois Raveneau. This one seemed a bit familiar and Dear Leader shared that indeed we had drunk the 2009 during our lunch at Le Parc Les Crayeres the previous day. This one felt very nice and with a lot going on - melons, mango, lemon honey citrus, rich in the mouth, prickly cheeks and an endless finish. 

We were having this with a cold corn soup into which a "Cromesqui de Foie Gras" had been parked. Seems a Cromesqui is a little chunk of Foie Gras in a breadcrumb or other crunchy wrap (another croquette!) and heated so that the Foie Gras gets slightly melted. Kind of like Foie Gras Tonkatsu, I guess. The soup is creamy, milky and sweet, though I could not get much in the way of Foie Gras - lots of crunch and season and breadcrumb, but felt the FG was MIA. The salty cheese bread worked wonderfully with the soup to contrast the sweet with the slightly sour and salt - simple but so effective. 

Next up was the most delightful egg - poached and coddled like a half boiled egg from Jalan 222 it came with (I think) Salmon, Onion Jam, watercress and a Chablis sauce. The combo of somewhat salty salmon wine sauce with the most perfectly poached egg and crisp wafer bread is just excellent - got gunk, salt, carbo, goo and sweet - and the bitter watercress was genius. And naturally perfect when slurped off the plate with the remains of the baguette, all slurpy salt wheat bite, chew and butter gunk swallow. Total perfecto. 

We were on to a third wine by this time, a 2008 Grand Cru Corton-Charlemagne out of Bonneau du Martray. I have no note except to say that the egg combo brought out a class in the wine that alone it seemed to lack. It tamed some acidity and brought it up to….  can't remember. Champagne breakfast can do that to you.

The wonderful Pork

Wine Four was a 2008 Premier Cru Gevrey Chambertin Clos St Jacques from Domaine Bruno Clair. And it was a stunner. Firm in the mouth with good bite on the cheeks, dark forest berries and damson and slight hint of cherry, and loooooooong finish. This was a big, big wine - don't get many like this in Kuala Lumpur, and if we do they cost both arms plus the leg. O thank you wine gods for smiling on this poor humble group of pilgrims. 

And it was fantastic with the pork that came to the table adorned as it was with some light steamed veg, fried onion and beetroot jam. And a little chunk of pork belly done Siew Yoke style (crispy skin) which was absolutely brilliant in its taste. Perhaps the French invented Siew Yoke rather than the Chinese? (oooooooo….   open up a big debate here…). The pork hunk felt as if it had been done sous vide (steamed in a bag) and then lightly seared with salt to give a light crunch to combine with the moist taste and texture of the meat. Perfect bite and chew and with the beetroot jam adding a light sweet acidic slap on the tongue. Great dish. 

The Money communes with the Siew Yoke. Ooooooiiinnnnnnnkkkkkk...

Service throughout was friendly, efficient and fun. Glasses got topped when needed and table settings got replaced neatly and quickly. A number of members have since said that Au Fil du Zinc was one of their food highlights of the trip. Well and okay… for me it was fabulous wines and well prepared and presented food which perhaps needed a little more to really "get there". Good to very good, but not stunned as much as I have been elsewhere. Of course, what stuns me might not be what stuns others, and far be it from me to claim any superiority in judgement when others have far more refined palates than me. I did thoroughly enjoy the ranges of tastes and textures both throughout and across the dishes, all of which paired well with the wonderfully amazing wines that kept getting brought to the table. I think perhaps it was the fusing of the Japanese with the classic French that I didn't quite get on this outing, and perhaps I need a bit of gastro time to appreciate how the magic between the two happens. Notwithstanding, an excellent lunch at a well appointed eaterie and well worth a return visit. As Dear Leader says, definitely one to watch. 

(L to R) Suzuki, Tony, Chef Ryo, Allie and Yin-How

Au Fil Du Zinc Degustation Menu du Chef - 3 plats Euro32, 5 plats Euro45, 7 plats Euro60 - 5 and 7 need the whole table to order

Entrees

Mushroom and Pigfoot Croquette

Oeuf mollet / Sauman / Sauce Chablis

Champignon / Pied de Cochon / Croquant

Soup de Mais / Cromesqui Foie Gras

Plats

Magret / Figue / Poireau

Cochon Bio de Nitry / Legumes

Cabillaud / Aubergine / Olive Noir / Curcuma

Desserts

Assiete de fromages ou fromage blanc

Baba au Rhum / Ananas / Coco

Myrtille / Cheese Cake / Litchi

Chocolat / Gigembre / Poire

Wines

"Rive Gauche" Bereche et Fils Champagne, Meunier

2010 Chablis Grand Cru, Domaine Francois Raveneau

2008 Grand Cru Corton-Charlemagne, Domaine Bonneau du Martray

2008 Premier Cru Gevrey Chambertin Clos St Jacques, Domaine Bruno Clair

A gentle stagger back on the bus for what in theory should have been a straight punch through to Beaune and a tasting at the Domaine Drouhin. Theory, however, did not accommodate for a bus driver who spent much driving time on his handphone. This in France is not lawful and Napoleon promptly got pulled over just outside of Beaune by two of the local gendarmerie on their motorbikes. We saw him getting seriously booked and apparently breathalysed by two of France's Finest. Given that we were already late from our late and extended lunchtime, the extra forty minute delay caused by this escapade meant that the Drouhin tasting had been rendered no way possible. Dear Leader decided best to go straight to the hotel. For some reason still yet to be fathomed, the two Gendarmes gave our bus a motorcycle escort to the hotel. I guess they did not trust Napoleon - not many of us did at this point in time. I wondered aloud whether the Police might also give us a hand to unload the bags. They didn't.  Bloody French. Poor Napoleon had to do it all by himself, albeit a bit more sullenly and sheepishly than the previous unloading. I did feel for him a bit - it is never fun to get a ticket from the law. Others said serve le miserable right - not safe to drive when talking into a handphone. Also not wrong.

Napoleon getting a ticket

It had been decided for us to splurge and stay at the Montrachet Hotel (the same venue for our dinner that evening) for the convenience of being able to dress up and come straight down to the One Star Restaurant. Which worked extremely well - it felt so good not to have to climb aboard a bus and career off somewhere into the night. The room we had was wonderfully large, with Lenglui able to sprawl in the bedroom whilst I camped in the TV area and plugged in all the various adapters to recharge our increasingly necessary little communication machines. Got showered and shaved and after washing some smalls had time for a quick nap.  All our hotels to date had these hot pipes in the bathroom which means that you can wash the smalls and get them dry within a couple of hours. Fantastic for the light travellers like us. We normally prefer to stay in as few hotels as possible since this means not having to unpack and repack too often. Happy to relinquish this for the luxury that hotels like this one offer.  

Cremant Sunset

We got dressed in Jacket and IWFS Medallion as requested and sauntered down to the restaurant. Lenglui and I had been to the Montrachet on a previous visit in 2013 for a lunch, but as we entered little of it looked familiar. There was a partition between our dinner area and the main room which I could not recall, and the garden area seemed a bit bare (though it was getting late in the autumn). Nevertheless, it was on the verandah we all got gathered for sunset and fizz aperitifs before the feast.  The dinner was being hosted by Domaine Amiot Guy et Fils owner Fabrice Amiot who was also arranging the wines from his cellars for the evening. And (except for the fizz) all would be in magnum, including a rare Le Montrachet Grand Cru 2000 which would highlight the evening. 

The fizz would prove to be Amiot's Cremant de Bourgogne, which came across as somewhat light in weight and unfortunately a bit ordinary, though again the context is important - sucking on Ruinart, Pommery and Bolly for the past few days will do that to a wine. But it was nice to be out in the chill with the dark coming in and the table beckoning. And the menu all in English some more. Fantastique.

Chef Luc gets the Bird

We all got seated and the table dinner setting was opulent and impressive. Fabrice gave a quick description of the fields and wines. He proved amiable and charming and generous and great company. He also promised to take us up to where the grapes were being picked at 8am the next morning. O joy - nothing like an early morning walk to shake the bones and brain awake. Bloody French. 

At around this point Chef Luc came out from the Montrachet kitchen to show the Bresse chicken in its pot that would get done two ways. It looked already steamed and skin roasted and got photographed to death by everyone. I know they ban flash photography in museums, which got me wondering whether it does anything to food? Does the food absorb some ultraviolet or sub infra red waves from the flashing that cause cancer? Hmmm….

We started with an amuse bouche of Foie Gras mousse with shallots which would prove a creamy, smokey, onion oily bite to get the mouth in gear. It was excellently smooth and creamy with just enough salt intensity to tickle rather than bite the tongue and cheeks. This was very well done. 

The 2008 "Chaumes" was getting poured and would prove a total charmer, all lush honey apples and chewy fruit with dates and raisins in there somewhere. Felt and tasted like Christmas, all rich and pudding-like. In excellent balance with a nice bite and mid length on the finish. 

Grilled Fillets of Mackerel with Beetroot and Raspberry

One doesn't often see Mackerel on a menu in our part of the world and to see it in such an august setting as the Montrachet was a little odd. Mackerel was always the cheap fish, the one you bought in a tin from the supermarket and mashed it up in pasta for a cheap student dinner. Notwithstanding, these fillets were excellent and bereft of that oily fishy tang that a strong mackerel can often give off. There was still enough oil in the fish for taste, but not so much as to give that sensation of swallowing the gunk at the bottom of the supermarket tin. Given the almost perfect texture and feel, the suspicion was the Mackerel had been prepared sous vide for better control over the cooking time. It was lovely. The Beetroot and Raspberry gave natural fruit acidity to the fish yet did not overpower and the ensemble became a perfect blend of firm lightly omega 3 oiled texture with sweet acidity. My mouth is watering at the memory. 

"Dayveed, yoo are laike mai waine?"   "Tony, do I like his wine?"   "Yes you do."  "Yes Fabrice, I do. Oui."

The Chaumes didn't quite match for me. The beetroot and berry acidity seemed to fight the Christmas Day honleylush feel of the wine. Partly the same with the fish - didn't quite gel together. There you go - food was excellent, wine was excellent, but not a marriage made in gastronomic heaven. 

Wine Two was again a Chassagne Montrachet but from a different climat and year. The 2007 "Macherelles" was clean and lean and with a fantastic Opal Fruits raspy citrus whack in the cheeks. Very little oak, which let some honey and chewy toffee notes come through. Dear Leader thought it needed time - well and okay - I gave it ten seconds more and walloped the boy. O lovely - like a smell of spring bells ringing the air in the fields whilst mineral water tinkles and dances over the stones of the years. Wow - seriously transported by this wine.

Hake with Artichoke Barigoule. Yum.

It was well paired with the rich Hake, whose oil and salt countered the fruit and acidity of the wine. Well tasty. Most of the veg went untouched due to detecting a slight hit of capsicum on first nibble. But the artichoke was fantastic - crisp and full of flavour and taste. Seems Barigoule is a traditional Provencal dish where the artichoke is braised with onions, garlic and carrots in a seasoned broth of wine and water. Well wicked. Killed the wine, though….

Bresse Chicken breast

The Bresse Chicken breast felt a bit on the dry side, but still moist enough to let the taste of the bird come through. Firm and crunchy bite, helped by some wonderfully seasoned fatty chicken skin - combo is total yum. For me, the chanterelles and bits of green healthy looking leaves did little to help and hindered rather than helped the bird. So it goes. This was simply done and well done as a result. 

That 2000 Montrachet moment...

We were on to the big boy for the night, the 2000 Montrachet Magnum. And big boy it was. Crispily light body, and so many layers of aromas going on. I was getting honey, toast, cream - and a total sense of terroir in the nose. Never got this before. Kind of underlining and somehow validating the deeply imagined sense of how a proper White Burgundy of the local earth should smell. Strange - can't quite put the words here. Perhaps one needs to be drunk in Burgundy and drunk ON Burgundy to feel it. Endless honey on the nose. I was drinking greatness and it was beyond sublime. The total exquisite Business. But it had to be drunk quite quickly - left a bit in the glass for later and it seemed to gain a sharp sour note. 

The Bresse Chicken thighs had been finely chopped and loaded into ravioli like pockets, not unlike the big Chinese wantan dumplings we get at the hawkers, and floated with more chopped thigh in a consomme pond. The Chicken was a bit dry, and not enough season for me in either bird or soup. Hugely well prepared and presented, just needed something to give it moistness and more taste. 

Bresse Chicken, er, Ravioli?

The 2003 Les Chaumes Red being paired with it was yet again a belting wine. Excellent weight and supremely well balanced. Spice cherry mouth, black pepper, a full body with good fire, weight and whack, though a surprisingly short finish. Stays well in the mouth, though.

It was about this time that I felt the need to do a Mossie Dixon Sweeper and go in search of any remnants of stunning greatness that might have been left in the bottles waiting to be swept. And imagine my delight when standing on the table was an undrunk bottle of the Montrachet. Delight quickly turned to despair when Dear Leader shared that the boy was corked. We had a sniff and so it proved. Darn sad. Magnum some more. Dixon would have wept. But still probably would have had a glass to double check.  

Map Reading 101 - not recommended any time after aperitifs

I have notes on the dessert but to be frank no real memory of them. There was an amuse dessert of a caramel mint creme on pastry with a sugar candy chip. I was not sure why we were having this here. The cake style pastry and cream fell like lead into the belly and slapdashed the tonsils with that furry gaaaak coating that only whipped cream can give. But it did give a good reason to break out the Rose Cremant - proved an excellent stripper of tonsil gunk. 

(L to R) Rajan, Fabrice, Chef Luc, May, Yin-How and David

I think there was a change to the menu which read Apricots and Ice Cream because we got a kind of cheesecake topped with an almond toffee crisp with a caramel smear and a scoop of ice cream on the side. I think perhaps the apricots were infused into the cream and in the jam sandwiched between the biscuit and the cream. I kind of liked it, but the combo of apricot and almond didn't quite work for me. It was tasty enough, but maybe a bit too large a finish given the preceding dishes. 

It was similar for the Rose Cremant - nice enough but somehow not quite pairing with the food and having some very hard vinous acts to follow. Nice wine, perhaps wrong place. Though it seems that finishing with Bubbles is very Burgundian. 

All the Magnums. Magnifique.

Ewwww  alert - whilst I was sniffing the Rose I accidentally snorted some of the wine bubbles. For the first time I had fizz going up the nasal passages and connecting directly with the brain and sinus. The bubbles literally blew my mind and nose and brought tears to the eyes. Cleared a lot of wax from the ears too. My writing seems to be getting quite body function focused. Must be France. Or the Champagne breakfasts. Oui.

The delightful petit fours and coffee ended the night very nicely, though some had already left the proceedings to hit the hay. A most pleasant evening with great food and stunning wines. Looking back at this time, I can't truly say that I remember any of the tastes of the dishes.The notes and the photos bring them back but as alluded to earlier there was little of the "stun" factor that some dishes through the years have done for me. Would I go back? Probably not - if ever back in Beaune I'd go for the Bresse Chicken at the Hotel de Ville we had visited in 2013. Now THAT was a stunning bird. Great steak too. But the wines were magnificent.

And then the evening was done. As said, many had headed off to bed though a few remained to party on. We decided against and slunk off straight to bed for an earlyish night. Some of us had an early start on the morrow to go tramp the fields. I had been instructed to sleep because I would be one of them. Yes. Bon nuit….

My name is Bond. Short Bond. Six inches. Oui.

Le Montrachet Menu

Aperitif: Cremant de Bourgogne

Grilled fillets of Mackerel, Beetroot and Raspberries with Tarragon

Chassagne- Montrachet 1er Cru "Les Chaumes" 2008

Line-caught hake with olives, confit pepper, artichoke, barigoule

Chassagne- Montrachet 1er Cru "Les Macherelles" 2007

Casserole of Bresse chicken in two ways: 

- the breasts with chanterelles and fresh almonds

Le Montrachet 2000

- the thighs in consomme

Chassagne- Montrachet  "Les Chaumes" 2003

Fresh Apricots and Almonds, Ripple Ice Cream

Cremant de Bourgogne Rose


"And 'ere are ze Bolly grapes, but doo not touche or Monsieur Bond weel shoot yoo..."

Champagne Bollinger
16, rue Jules-Lobet – B.P.4 – 51160 Aÿ FRANCE
Tel : +33 (0) 3 26 53 33 66
Fax : +33 (0) 3 26 54 85 59
n° TVA : FR 19 334 594 777
capital social : 4480 000 €
n° Siret : 334 594 777 000 16
Contact mail : contact@champagne-bollinger.fr

Au Fil Du Zinc

18 rue des Moulins

89800 Chablis FRANCE

03 86 33 96 39

aufilduzinc@orange.fr

Hotel Le Montrachet

10 place du Pasquier de la Fontaine
21190 Puligny-Montrachet

Tel : +33 (0) 3 80 21 30 06
Fax : +33 3 80 21 39 06

info@le-montrachet.com

Au Fil Du Zinc Chef Ryo (right) with Pitt Lee, David and Suzuki