Ben's KLCC - good food, annoying wine order

Hmmm… bit miffed at our dining experience at the Ben's in KLCC over the weekend. 

Ben's is one of our default places to eat before a concert at the MPO. Food comes out pretty fast and is consistent in taste and quality terms. It also enjoys a brilliant location overlooking the KLCC Park and the dancing fountains. A great place to enjoy a sunset. 

We ordered our food (Fish and Chips for me, Steak Sandwich for Lenglui) and their special three for two wine deal (NB asked if we could have one red and two white but were told cannot - so it goes). I nipped off to the car to retrieve something and on return found that the wine had not arrived apparently due to no glasses and would we like our wine in a flute glass. Kudos to the staff member for looking for an alternative, but clearly not too knowledgeable on wines and glasses. The answer was no and the wine order was cancelled. The food arrived and as we were eating we got interrupted by one of the other staff members saying that glasses were now available and our wine was coming. I told him we had cancelled the order because it was too late to drink with the food but he would not give up and kept trying to sell us the wine idea. He clearly had no idea that he was interrupting our enjoyment of the food and talking to him was making the food go cold on the plate. I finally had to be quite insistent and told him to please go away and let us enjoy our meal in peace. He did. Three minutes later, someone came with our wine order. Again I had to say it had been cancelled. Pretty annoyed by this time, we finished the meal in silence. Not an enjoyable experience, though the fish was quite tasty and the french fries were hot. Good tartare sauce too. Perhaps it was bad timing for communications between the staff, but the friend who would not let us eat in peace was darned annoying. 

The bill showed GST and came out at RM94. Felt like a whack in the wallet for the food we had.  Don't think we will be back for a while but it shouldn't make much difference - the place was pretty full (Saturday night, 7.30pm). Elsewhere in the KLCC, Uncle Chili's was doing a roaring trade with punters queuing up outside to get in. Chinoz looked a bit quiet, thought the Food Court on the second floor was busy. Saw a Kyros Kebab outlet there which was quite reassuring to see they were still around. Great kebabs full of solid meat and coleslaw - total comfort food when you need something solid and fast. We used to have them regularly when they had an outlet in The Mall. I would pick up a couple on the walk home and enjoy them with a glass of Chardonnay. Have to go back and see if they maintained their standard. 

Chinoz on the Park - well tasty!

Elsewhere on this blog there's a report on the L'Heritage, the initial choice of the IWFS for its February beano, and how it didn't pass the Food Sub Committee's standard. The Governor quickly roped in Wee Jeh of Chinoz to put together a dinner for the members with which the Wine Sub Comm did a quick pairing. Notice went out and 39 members and guests responded positively. For this one I would be without Lenglui who had abandoned me for a ship and is happily cruising along the Asian Pacific Rim as I write.  

Chinoz has been a KL standard for over two decades. Starting off in Bangsar offering food of substance and refined presentation, they have been in their present location at KLCC for a good number of years. The restaurant enjoys one of the prime locations on the Ground Level of the Twin Towers. It has recently been renovated and now exudes a chic ambience of glass with greys and browns. There is a terrace outside where patrons have the perfect view of the KLCC Park and the Dancing Fountains. Chinoz on the Park offers Mediterranean style cuisine along with seafood from their Raw Bar and is open pretty much all throughout the day. Lenglui and I have eaten there many times in the past, usually en route to a concert at the MPO. Their pizzas were magnificent, but they stopped doing them at the KLCC. Sad day that was. We still go but now we alternate with Ben's upstairs - magnificent salads and steak sandwich. Quite generous with the wines, too.

Notwithstanding, the Chinoz on the Park continues to be one of the default destinations for IWFS when we get stuck for somewhere to host a function. Owner and fellow IWFS member Teng Wee Jeh always comes through with a menu and a venue and IWFS just brings the booze.... well actually, Wee Jeh brought the booze on this occasion; he operates a wine storage facility where we cellar our wines. I went there the day before to box and pack them and his boys sent them to the restaurant. Top man.

Duck Liver Terrine Canapes

I got there well early, opting to drive straight from the office rather than go home and face a possible massive jam trying to get to KLCC later in the evening. Popped in to the Chinoz just to see that all was shipshape (which it was) only to find I had been beaten there by the Doc. He evidently had the same idea as me - beat the traffic. I went for a wander around the KLCC to my usual haunts - bookstore, Macstore, Best Denki, Rock Corner, Marks and Sparks - before heading back to join the other early birds who were already quaffing the very tasty Vettori Valdobbiadene Prosecco. This was a recommendation from DocWine who had shared a few with new friend Wai Lun of Bottles and Bottles. Lovely wine, clean tasting, not overly high in acidity but enough to be fresh as the smell of cut grass on a mild spring breeze, and magnificent bubbles that swirled in a whirlpool of delight straight up the middle of the glass. Went very nicely with the duck terrine and croquette canapes being circulated by Chinoz staff.

Got fizz? GOT!! Dato Jeremy Diamond with Mr and Mrs George Lee

They had parked us at the back end of the restaurant, a lovely space which can be cordoned off from the entrance area where beer and sandwiches seemed to be popular. We had five tables with eight seats apiece in medium lighting. Having a separate area does help lend a sense of occasion to proceedings. We got seated and the Doc introduced me to talk about the wines. Not at my most comfortable doing this - hard enough trying to find words to describe wine but to do it with an audience is quite scary. Also not as fast talking on my feet as I used to be. Just tried to explain the decisions behind the wine choices and the degree of educated guesswork that goes into it. Point is, we don't often get the chance to taste the wines in advance because if it belongs to the IWFS then we have to account for it which means one less bottle for members to drink. In this, though, we do have a large databank of committee experience to rely on. For example, Bordeaux and Burgundy for mains choices where Continental style beef, lamb and fish are being served, decent fizz to start with, so it's often only the whites for the entree and soup that need some decisions. We also try to clear the wines in the cellar that are in their drinking window, otherwise they can fall flat on the night. I also invited the members to give their views on whether the matches were good, sat down and everyone said nice things. Very kind, the IWFS members.

The Amuse Bouche was a chunk of tuna wrapped in cucumber with what tasted like wasabi mayo dotted with pearls of caviar. Very pretty on the plate, it all proved a full lilting mouthful of smooth texture with the wasabi mayo smoothing the tuna and the little hit of salt from the pearl lending a pop on the tongue. Went very nicely with the Prosecco with the food giving it a hit of pear for some reason. 

Amuse Bouche

The Torbreck came out looking all golden and honeyed in the glass. A blend of Rousanne, Marsanne and Viogner grapes, the nose felt a bit nondescript but the mouth was all explosive crisp apricots which turned to lush persimmon as it warmed in the glass. Kept its crispness throughout as well - belter of a wine.

I have little to no note on the Smoked Haddock, though I seem to remember feeling my egg was over-poached and half yolked. It did look pretty, though. The egg was magnificent with the fresh bread and brilliant butter - all salt, goo, crust and carbo and tasting like a French breakfast in some Beaune farmhouse. Totally timeless and totally sublime. Please remind me - why am I writing about fine food when some of my favourite tastes come from the simplest ingredients?

Warm Salad of Smoked Haddock

Seemed to be eating a lot of the bread and butter to ease the growls in the belly. Usually this is not a good sign since it signals the food is a bit needing in volume. Maybe things will change with the soup...

I had praised up the Te Koko during my introduction, saying that tonight was the night after numerous attempts to swill the thing. It was indeed very nice - rich mouth, nose of apricot and butterscotch, steel crisp prunes on the downslope with a hint of attack and grip on the tonsil - but not great. The balance was somewhat off, with a tinge of oxide cack in the mouth and tart tang on the finish. Bit like a tangerine going soft. Past the prime for me, though still a great wine.

Veloute of Oyster with Unagi and Croquettes

The Veloute of Oyster with all its attendant tastes (unagi, lemon oil, avruga) felt a bit bland for some reason. The single oyster had wonderfully fresh texture but after its swim in the Veloute seemed to have become somewhat devoid of taste. It was also a bit...  oyster-ey for me. Having that slight gamey aged feel about it, like when fish becomes fishy or lamb becomes lamb-ey. Perhaps this was the Veloute effect, bringing that fundamental quintessential oyster taste to the fore. Don't know.

The unagi had been royally grilled to a crisp and was looking like a slice of crispy bacon, which seemed also to have left it somewhat devoid of taste. The croquette showed potential, but mine could have used a better balance of fish over the potato and a good whack of lemon pepper in the mix. I think I understand the thinking behind the arrangement and presentation of the ingredients - is just that the final combo came across as a bit snuzz and not really memorable for me. Maybe the kitchen was playing it a bit safe?

The Te Koko did not really match the Veloute, but then on reflection what to pair with soup? My thinking was that the complexity of the wine would balance the complexity of the food. It didn't for me. Actually, those that had some Torbreck remaining in the glass were rewarded since its rich blend of chewy grapes paired way better than the more complex Kiwi Warrior.  There you go - know for next time. Don't pair your best wines with soup. Simple wine with complex soup. Yes.

I had requested lamb which came out somewhat tubular and cylindrical - quite phallic in its own way, though whether this was intentional on the part of the chef remains unknown. Made it a bit firm on the cutting, but the meat was excellent. Lovely bite and chew on some wonderfully fresh meat. The jus set the lamb off nicely. Never had Freekeh before - Wikipedia says it is a cereal made from green wheat that has been sundried and roasted. Arabian in origin, the name derives from "farik" which translates into "rubbed" and is high in fibre. Tastewise, it put me in mind of Couscous though much firmer and crunchier in texture, like slightly undercooked lentils oozing goodness. The Morel offered a pleasing textural contrast here, and the combo with the jus was delightful - rubber bite on the Morel matching the crunch of the Freekeh and bound together in lamb jus goo. Yum.

Smoked Lamb Fillet with Freekah, Morel and Herb

Table friends said the Beef was very good - no reports on the fish.

Winewise, both the Monthelie and Cotes du Lunelles showed nicely. The medium weight Monthelie was peaking, with warm spice notes on the nose and a steel clean fruit wallop across the inside of the cheeks and finishing quite long. The Lunelles proved to be the star, with its full mouth and great balance across the elements. Sweet coffee and gunmetal in the mouth with a velvet fire finish. Though with a tiny hint of age poking through - methinks may need to quaff the remaining bottles quite soon. 

Wagyu Sirloin

The Sarawak Pineapple Tart Dessert had been specially prepared by Sandra, Wee Jeh's wife, and looked like a Van Gogh sunflower nailed to an ice cream moon being melted by a fruit tart sun. Lovely colours here, all rich browns, yellows and caramels. With an eye on my diabetes, I had a quick taste - firm and full caramel and toffee tastes in the mouth and hugely filling. The Black Pepper Ice Cream felt like a nod to San Sebastian and Mugaritz, and worked. A massively bold and powerful dessert. Some on our table questioned the weight of the dish in its following on from the foregoing texturally more lighter weight offerings. This dessert did indeed feel a bit a bit large on the palate given the sequence and delicate combinations of the earlier dishes - perhaps something lighter in taste and texture would have fit better. But as I recall they all scarfed it down bigtime. 

Sarawak Pineapple Tart with Black Pepper Ice Cream

In sum, yet another pleasant dinner in the charming ambience that is Chinoz on the Park. Some lovely wines, quite well matched with the food, though the Te Koko disappointed. The Prosecco surprised on the upside, most people enjoyed the Torbreck and the Bordeaux and the Monthelie was most pleasant. Other feedback suggested people thought both the food and the wines were excellent (both individually and in pairing terms) though sequentially perhaps the dessert was a bit on the heavy side for ending the meal. As said, Wee Jeh always comes through for the IWFS at short notice and always delivers. Great service, engaging food and very nice wines in the company of gourmands - doesn't get much better. Cheers!!

Chef Mohd Hisham bin Abu Bakar with Chinoz Floor Manager and IWFS KL President Dr Rajan

The Menu

AMUSE BOUCHE

Vettori Valdobbiadene Brut NV

WARM SALAD OF SMOKED HADDOCK

with a SOFT POACHED EGG & A LIGHT CURRY CREAM

Torbreck Roussane Viogner Marsanne 2011

VELOUTE OF OYSTERS with UNAGI, SALT COD,

LEMON OIL & AVRUGA

Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc Te Koko, Marlborough, New Zealand 2008

WAGYU SIRLOIN

with QUINOA & ROASTED SPROUT SALAD,

BEET & TRUFFLE PUREE, BEARNAISE SAUCE

Or

SMOKED LAMB FILLET with FREEKAH, MORELS, HERBS

Or

PAN ROASTED MONK FISH with CRISPY QUINOA

Bouchard Pere et Fils Monthelie, Cotes De Beaune 2005

Clos Les Lunelles Cotes De Castillon 2005

SARAWAK PINEAPPLE TART

with Black Pepper Ice Cream

TEA / COFFEE

Chinoz on the Park owner Teng Wee Jeh with IWFS Member Andrew Diamond

The Wines

Vettori Valdobbiadene Brut NV

Skilled winemaking with Glera grapes make Vettori stand out among this renowned producer of Prosecco di Conegliano Valdobbiadene Brut. 

Crisp and savoury on the palate, with a chalky note underlining sensations of peach and grapefruit with a ripe apple core which finishes traditional dry with refreshing acidity. An exemplar of freshness in a dry balanced style with mid palate citrus a fine mousse and a lingering finish. 

Torbreck Woodcutter’s Roussane Viogner Marsanne 2011

Roussanne (60%) provides structure and finesse as well as helps tie the three varieties together. The Viognier (29%) offers a pure, floral lift and finishes the wine with refinement and elegance and Marsanne (11%) gives the wine some palate texture and richness.

The 2011 Woodcutters RVM yields subtle floral notes over a core of fresh pears and white peaches. Dry, light to medium-bodied an elegantly fruited of honeyed peach in the mouth, it finishes with gentle medium to long persistence.  (Wine Advocate: 88/100)

Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc Te Koko 2008

Te Koko o Kupe (The Oyster Dredge of Kupe) is named after a mythical Maori super hero warrior and it is the original name of the sweeping Cloudy Bay area on the Marlborough coast line.

The 2008 Te Koko is "an intriguing and unique expression of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. Aromas of lemon thyme, mandarin blossom and stonefruit combine with ginger spice, toasted nuts and savoury tones - underlined by exotic tropical notes most typical of this aromatic varietal. The many-layered palate is creamy and textured, balanced by a clean, mineral acidity. A wine of persistent flavour and intensity." 

Bouchard Pere et Fils Monthelie, Cotes De Beaune 2005

The parcel is tended by a vine-grower who works the vineyard with the cycle of nature up to the harvest to enable the terroir to fully express its nuances across the vintages. 

Garnet colour with purple shades. Intense bouquet marked by black fruit flavours (blueberry, blackberry), sweet spices and mocha. Aromatic and willowy to the palate, the wine expresses a delicate softness with a refined structure.

Clos Les Lunelles Cotes De Castillon 2005

Clos Lunelles remains one of the top Bordeaux wines of the Cotes de Castillon appellation. 

The wine's violet color is so superbly deep and dense that it is almost opaque, an eloquent sign of the maturity that is typical of the 2005 vintage. A ripe fruitiness of blackberries and black cherry jam is balanced by the mentholated and lively, fresh notes of a mature harvest. In the mouth, vibrant tannins give the wine a sound and tight structure, and the mid-palate shows great texture which is made for aging. A mouth-watering finish is long and generous, prolonging the wine's flavor. Tannins and acidity contribute significantly to its impressive structure. This is a superb wine which requires time: about five to eight years will bring out a more complex range of aromas.

The Wine Advocate - "This is the greatest Cotes de Castillon I have ever tasted." (RP 94 WS 92)

Memories of my friend Dr Gan Chong Wan

The Pork Luck Club has lost one of our fellowship. Dr Gan Chong Wan was our very dear friend whose friendship and company we will miss tremendously.

I just want to share some of my memories of him to try and get some of this pain and sadness I am feeling out of my system. We all knew he was on borrowed time, but his death has hit me harder than I thought it would. Editing this is still choking me up.

He was a Leukemia survivor. Diagnosed twelve years ago, he beat the thing and had just recently celebrated ten years in remission. It resurfaced late August this year and he had undergone two sessions of chemotherapy. The results were promising. He and I shared Pol Roger Champagne and Oysters and Pork Belly at the Ribs on November 6th. Then he felt well enough to join us at the Ginza Sushimasa with Toru-san and PLC friends on November 15th. Seems that sometime soon after this he contracted some viral fever and was laid out for three days. He was getting back to normal and recovering, but on Friday November 28th I received a text from his sister saying he was in ICU at UH and that he was in very bad shape. It was thought he would not survive for long, but apparently he swore that he would. Seems UH were pumping him with stabiliser meds and sedatives for severe pain and seeking to stop the organs from dying. However, at 3am Sunday November 30th his family received a phone call from UH and they were with him when he passed at 6.30am. He was 62.

A wake was held at Gui Yuan Funeral Parlour in PJ on December 1st from 3pm and it had been decided that a Roast Pig would be served. Friends were also invited to bring food and wine and whiskey to celebrate Dr Gan's life. We arrived at 5.30pm and brought some white wine. Luckily it was screwtop as no one had a corkscrew - mine had been transferred out of its usual place in the backpack for some air travel reason. There was red wine and brandy, though few seemed in the mood to drink. I was. I cracked the white and got stuck in. We sat with friends David Law and Philip Chai (friends from his short time with Musical Theatre in the early 1980s) and Jimmy Tang and sister Yoong, friends since primary school days. We were all pretty desolate.

Mr Tan from Checkers Restaurant showed up with some croissants and prunes wrapped in bacon. Mr Tan is also is a cancer survivor and I know that Dr Gan helped him through some of his not so good times with the treatment. Gan's old schoolfriends were also in attendance. Many had also been friends since primary and secondary school days. The mood was somber but not too sad. His sisters were playing some of his favourite classical and opera tunes and showing a slideshow of photos from his life that his brother had quickly put together. That he could do this with only one hour sleep on a thirty hour trip from Wisconsin was little short of remarkable. 

At the Noble House in Jalan Delima, Kuala Lumpur

A golden flower shrine around a photo of Gan had been put together with fruit and candles and sweet cake offerings and placed before the coffin. The coffin was open and I felt I had to go see him one more time. I barely recognised him. His face was all puffy, apparently from the steroids he had been pumped with in the efforts to keep him alive. If I had my time again, I would prefer not to have seen him like that. But there you go. We take our friends in both good and bad shape and these become the totality of our experience with them. 

Old friends May Ph'ng and Siang came to pay respects. May shared that she had lit 64 candles to help speed Dr Gan's transmigration - in Buddhism, as I understand it, the spirit/soul/essence leaves the body and either goes onward toward enlightenment or returns to a newborn being to learn whatever was not learned in this present lifetime. And whether this newborn is a higher or lower lifeform depends on our karma and merit earned in this lifetime. We shared some Roast Pig and wine. 

The wine helped shift the low mood. Felt like I had been whacked by a big stick all day. Dr Gan's sisters shared stories of him and his life and friends. Seems he and present PM Najib were schoolmates and sat next to each other in the classroom. The story went that whenever Najib was naughty, Dr Gan always got the blame. They stayed in touch through the years and it seems Najib was a regular visitor to the Gan household when travel and work permitted. Seems also that PM Najib visited the Gui Yuan to pay his respects the following morning prior to the funeral, replete with outriders and bigass car. I saw them haring along the Federal Highway back to KL as I was on my way to the funeral.

Arriving, I parked in the same space as the night before. The mood was more subdued today. David, Jimmy and Yoong had come, and it was David who shared that Najib had come. Fellow PLC friend May Peng also came to pay respects. Everyone still felt shock that Dr Gan was no longer with us. The brother was bearing up well, the sisters not so.

At the IWFS KL Presidents' Dinner December 2013

Again, the funeral was not a grand affair. No chanting or ritual, unlike the ruckus that was going on at the funeral next door, Someone was playing big drums and something sounding like a World Cup vuvuzela horn and they were belting out "Roll Out The Barrel" and "She'll Be Coming Round The Mountain" military style as the deceased in the adjoining part of the compound was being taken for the last drive to the incinerator. Felt a bit bizarre but I'm sure it would have made the Doc smile. Didn't seem to make anyone else smile, though. It also drowned out the speech of Gan's brother thanking everyone for coming to pay their respects. We all made one last round of the coffin where our friend was laying. He looked less puffy today. That was when I noticed the shirt he was wearing - I have an exact same one hanging in the closet at home. He was open collar, no tie as is often imposed by the funeral directors. The sisters know their brother well - he hated restrictions of all kinds. Then the minions moved in, hammered the lid into place and made ready for the last ride.

As the flower shrine was being dismantled in preparation for moving the coffin to the car, I saw that everyone was turning to face away. Never seen this before, and found it a shade disconcerting - in the West, to show one's back at this juncture would be seen as a mark of disrespect... but then we are not in the West. Clearly there was some meaning in this that eluded me. Once the coffin was in the car and closed, everyone moved into place and we all followed the hearse around the compound as it made its way to the burner. The family placed their hands on the car and it slowly made one round of the complex. There was a slight delay as the forerunning deceased had the barrel rolled out one last time. But no one was in any mood to rush anything.

New Year's Eve Dec 2013 at Soleil

And again, as the coffin was taken from the hearse, everyone turned their backs to it! Someone later suggested that possibly this was to avert any bad luck that might arise as a result of seeing the last walk of a friend. Could be. The coffin was placed onto the burner rail, the cinder block door lifted, the rollers moved the coffin into place, the door lowered, and that was it. Goodbye Doc.

Sadder than sad. My good friend got took away and I will miss his laugh, his wit, his intelligent humour and his sardonic view of life and its madness and occasional seeming futility. Prior to his initial diagnosis, he had a tendency to rail against people's shortcomings. After successfully completing his treatment he saw more of the comedy in it all and chose to laugh at it more than anything. In this sense, I witnessed a life change in him and we enjoyed ten years of his company in this changed attitude of mind. 

There was Buddhism in him, for he would visit the temple on the auspicious days of the year. Though he was not a lover of ritual ceremony and pomp. For him, the simple joys of food on the street with a breeze heralding rain, or with his dogs out for a run would be enough to remind him that all was well in the universe. His breadth of knowledge on many things was staggering, especially for things Chinese. He loved his Chinese history and porcelain and he amassed an amazing collection which he would delight in taking out to handle - he always said that porcelain was a tactile medium rather than being merely visual. 

Chinese New Year 2014

He had a great passion for good food cooked well, and would always insist on ordering (and more often pre-ordering) the food for our get togethers. He introduced us to so many excellent eating places in the city and beyond. Dengkil Seafood, You Mi Chi, Lao Mah Zhi, and found one of our lost favourites the Hoi Kee. He would rail against the upmarket Chinese cuisine outlets like the Noble House chain, saying the over sweet sauces catered more to the gwailo market and rendered the food not as authentically Chinese as he would have demanded. But he would occasionally tolerate them and indulge us when the company and the wine were good. I have great memories of times with him at Sage, Cilantro, Soleil, the Overseas on Imbi, the Marco Polo on Raja Chulan, and Checkers in Damansara. These were among those to which we would return on many occasions. I also have great memories of him coming to gatherings at our home with friends and food and wine. He would cook, serve, eat, wash dishes, and then we would share our good whiskey, brandy and armagnac with him when everyone had gone home. We would go with him to concerts at the MPO, eating at Chinoz or Ben's and having Gin and Tonics in the intermission. He truly loved his music. He also loved good food, good wines and good company and he valued his friends hugely. That so many stayed with him through the years is testament to his character and how much we all treasured his friendship and company. 

He taught me that our time together is too short and precious to fritter. If you're going to have a time together, make sure it is a darn good one and spare no reasonable expense. Break out the good wine and food, always. And for him, we always would. 

His late mother and favourite pet dogs are in the grounds of the Gan home and we hear that the Doc will similarly be staying there. Someone asked what would happen if they ever sell the house, to which friend and wit David Law responded by saying that it would not be entirely "vacant possession".

One of the last things he said to me as we were leaving the Ribs from the Pol Roger dinner was "Dying is easy." I guess he had lived with his own mortality for a long time and had come to terms with it. And he was a doctor - he would know that not every life can get saved. Not to say that he was submitting to anything - he had absolute conviction that he would beat the thing again and he was very aggressive in his treatment regime. He wasn't supposed to die. We once joked about moving to Songkhla when we retired to open a bordello where we all would live and look out for each other. Maybe next time around. I hope there is one.

January 17th 2015 will mark the seventh day of the seventh week that he passed, which stands as the time when the soul will completely pass. Prayers will be said for him at 10am at the Buddhist temple on Jalan Gasing where a tablet to his memory is located. I would call on his friends to raise a glass and toast his memory and our time together. Let us each honour him as we know best and how he would want - in pork, wine and friendship. 

He would definitely not want us to be sad. Normally he would scold people for feeling sad, saying "life too short lorrr." He's right, as he always usually was. But then the dead don't have to live with death. For those who are still alive, it is a sad, sad time. I mourn the loss of my dear, dear friend. 

At the Soleil August 2014

And I hope he would spare me on this occasion. Not all sadness is a bad thing. It keeps us human. Like Dr Gan himself. There's a line from the second Star Trek movie where Captain Kirk is giving a eulogy for Spock who had been apparently killed by nuclear radiation. Kirk says of Spock "Of all the souls I have known, his was the most.... human." Of my friend, I would say the same. Goodbye Doc.

IWFS Charity Dinner: Excellent food and wines, but small portions…

“PRESIDENT’S CHARITY DINNER”  AT CILANTRO RESTAURANT:  MI CASA HOTEL, SATURDAY, 8th DECEMBER 2012

Kalsom and Edna

The annual President’s Charity Dinner is the IWFS Kuala Lumpur's black tie gala dinner and the Cilantro restaurant was again chosen as the venue. It is a favourite dining venue of many members. Chef Takashi Kimura’s cuisine combines a wonderful French/Japanese blend that has proved a great success with a wide range of discerning diners. It is consistently reliable and always to a very high standard. 

The aim of the dinner was once again to raise funds for two worthy charities through donations and through the auction of wines donated by members and suppliers at the dinner. The IWFS Kuala Lumpur gives a three year commitment to the charities it supports, essentially to allow both donor and recipient to more efficiently plan their finances. The charites supported are the Beautiful Gate Foundation For The Disabled and the Damai Disabled Persons Association of Selangor & Wilayah Persekutan, Petaling Jaya, Selangor. Each helps the disabled to achieve an independent and self sufficient lifestyle through both wheelchair purchase and emotional support. The ability to travel greatly increases the chances for gainful employment by the disabled and so engender the gains in self esteem that work naturally entails. 

The IWFS Ladies ready to rumble!

Some wonderful wines and gifts were donated and it was hoped that the auction would exceed the RM100,000 raised the previous year. Not to be. The amount fell short but was still a most impressive RM84,000. The generosity of IWFS Members and their friends is praiseworthy and commendable, and greatly appreciated by the charities who proudly sport the IWFS Logo on their vans and properties! 

Fifty nine members and guests attended the dinner, all being welcomed by excellent oysters and some sashimi looking spoonfuls which went gangbusters with the crispy clean and dry throat slaking fizz. The Chateau Taittinger Brut NV is a delicately balanced champagne known for its consistently excellent quality. It is a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier wines from over 35 different vineyards and vintages, and a minimum of three years ageing in the cellars is needed for the fizz to reach the peak of aromatic maturity. Gold yellow in colour with fine bubbles, with an open and very expressive nose delivering aromas of peach, brioche, with hawthorn, acacia and vanilla notes. A good start.

Ocean Trout and Uni Tatare

Which was sadly not sustained when matched with the first course. The Ocean Trout and Uni Tatare was essentially sashimi, soft boiled egg and crispy potato. The combination of the ensemble was wonderful, with the egg binding the potato and the fish and  resulting in a texturally magnificent bite. The champagne did nothing for the food except wash it down. The bubbles cleaned the egg gunk from the tongue, but in terms of taste there was nothing to write home, or indeed write here, about.

The apparently iconic 2008 Ch Vieux telegraphe Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc (91 WA) is one of the top white CdP’s of the appellation. Produced by the Brunier family, it is a  blend of 40% Clairette, 30% Grenache Blanc, 15% Bourboulenc and 15% Roussane. The notes say the wine "reveals lots of minerality as well as notes of lemon custard, honeyed nectarines, quince and white currants. Ripe, full-bodied, heady, super-fresh. Layered and long.” We found a nose of apricot and honey with great texture and slight oil on the palate. Full bodied with wonderful balance and structure and which, to paraphrase Lerner and Loewe, we could have drunk all night. A stunner, with great depth and structure, and indeed worthy of the iconic tag.

Jeremy Diamond and Jeff Walmsley

The combination Lobster and Lily Bulb souffle came across as somewhat bitter and acidic, mainly due to the Lily Bulb. Presumably included to give the dish some fibrous texture to the beancurd-like feel of the souffle (which it did), the tastes didn't really harmonise. Bitter vegetables rarely do any favours to wine and so it proved here  - as far as matching with the wine was concerned, the souffle was better on its own. And this match was very good. The lobster tamed the oil and acidity to bring out a nutty butter richness that went beautifully with the souffle. In turn this enhanced the minerality of the wine without sacrificing the fruit and gave a sandpaper scratchy lime finish along the back of the throat. Total result. Life was good. 

The main courses of Sable Fish with Bottarga and Scallop Mousse, Pyrennees Lamb with Houba Miso, and Blackmore Wagyu with Mushrooms were all paired with the Ch Branaire Ducru 2000 (94 RP) and the Ch Branaire Ducru 2008 (91 RP). Chateau Branaire Ducru is a Fourth Growth St Julien with a long history stretching back to 1680. The notes say the medium to full-bodied 2000 "is close to full maturity and… hits the palate with authority, displaying silky tannins as well as wonderful richness, depth and texture" whilst "Its deep ruby/purple hue is accompanied by scents of boysenberries, black currents and spring flowers."  and Ch Branaire Ducru 2008 (91 RP).  In contrast, the 2008 has been acclaimed as a "stunning success for the vintage" and revealing "notes of lead pencil shavings, sweet raspberries and black currants and a subtle touch of oak. Elegant, restrained yet authoritative and impressively intense, it is a medium to full-bodied."

Wong Yin How and his little friend

Both were lovely wines to drink. The medium bodied 2000 had good bramble fruit on the nose and palate, blackcurrant and cassis notes with great balance, sleek structure and long finish. The 2008 had bigger fruit on the nose, was also nicely balanced with easy smooth tannins to produce a lighter finish. 

The lamb was perfect. Wonderful combination of lean young meat texture with a hint of jus whilst the miso lent a salty squeeze on the tongue for taste. One of the best I have tasted. The problem was that there wasn't a lot of it. Three bites and the plate was cleared. Whilst it is true that we foodies pay for the artistry of the chef and his or her wizardry with the ingredients, there is still a need to feel satisfied at the end of the meal. On previous visits, there was sufficient food to feel a reasonable sense of fair value for the price. Didn't happen here. To contrast, the Lenglui and I had enjoyed a wonderful lunch that day generously sported by the EO Jewellery folks at KLCC and thanks to an invite from fellow IWFS member Ong Li Dong. The turkey and lamb lunch with brussel sprouts, stuffing and gravy supplied by Chinoz on the Park were excellent and the stollen cake that followed was just like a taste of the old Christmas - all sticky jam stodge and icing sugar. Put us in mind of Jam Roly Poly school dinner desserts - very evocative. 

Comparing the two, it is difficult not to say that the lunch was far better in terms of satisfaction. Yes, one could argue it is a different experience and that the taste of the Cilantro dishes is the one that we are prepared to pay so much for. It just would have been better if there could have been a little more of it. The beef looked better value and a brief steal of a piece from Lenglui's plate showed the usual Cilantro standard. Was also most excellent with the wine. Did not get a chance to try the fish.

Chocolate and Pear Mouselline

Dessert of Chocolate and Pear Mousseline with mixed berries got paired with a Ch Roullerie Quarts de Chaume Aunis 2010 (93 WS). Seems there is a micro-climate similar to Sauternes In the AC Coteaux du Layon of the Middle Loire (where the Quarts de Chaume is located)  that creates the conditions for Botrytis. The Quarts de Chaume produces brilliant sweet wines purely from Chenin Blanc that are “Rounded and lush, but defined and pure, with gorgeous creamed green melon, fig, glazed pear and papaya character, backed by notes of maple and apricot." A big round mouth of crisp apples and sweet honey with good acidity to produce a long viscous finish. 

The wine matched nicely with the mousseline which came across as chocolate cream with brandy butter snaps and hints of chestnut, caramel and cinnamon. A delightful mouthful, though not really a match with the wine. Milk based desserts never quite seem to hit it off with the cloying sweet viscous quality of dessert wines. It would have been magnificent with apple pie. Not that we'd ever see apple pie on the Cilantro menu. Would have to be called Pommes des Marche Saute et Crustee. Or something more epicurally and euphemistically seductive. We foodies need to be romanced. Yes, we do. Don't we? 

Merry Christmas!!

As ever, the Cilantro service was pleasantly excellent with staff serving and removing things from tables silently and unobtrusively, whilst all the members were doing the small talk round. I do envy people this skill, the ability to remember names at the drop of a hat and to generate relevant and engaging conversation and forge an immediate and unforgettable impression. On a stage with a microphone is one of the safest places in the world for me, but making friends with a newly met stranger is something that does not come naturally. Guess we are all different, eh?

In sum, great wines, excellent food, but such small portions. The company was excellent and the members raising so much for the charities is most commendable. Here's hoping that 2013 brings us all heatlh, contentment and great food and wine adventures!!