Mission

Mission: To respond thoughtfully and responsibly to my experiences of drinking and dining at restaurants with regard to the quality, service, preparation, presentation and overall experience received thereat. The standpoint is one who respects the crafts of the chef and sommelier and who seeks to understand their choices in the kitchen and cellar and grow in knowledge. In this, I will seek to be fair, reasoned, direct and constructive and aim to keep my ego in check on our mutual journeys through the worlds of food and wine.
Showing posts with label Turbot. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Turbot. Show all posts

Sunday, June 28, 2015

IWFS Lafite - Cuisine Haut, Service Naut…

Lafite entrance
June 25th 2015 Kuala Lumpur

For the first event of the new IWFS Year, President David wanted to start with a grand bang and pick a venue that would set a tone of IWFS members enjoying eating and drinking well and being merry together. So it was that Lafite got selected to host the dinner. He had challenged Chef de Cuisine Jean-Philippe Guiard to prepare a menu with "memories of Escoffier" and had also asked Maitre D' and Sommelier Benjamin Pons to choose the wines from our IWFS Cellar to pair. Response to the members' notice was swift and enthusiastic, and following some discussion it was decided to increase numbers to absorb the waiting list of members keen to attend. In the end, 59 members confirmed.

Orchids are pretty...
I am always a bit antipathetic to the Shangri-La and its outlets. Elsewhere I have commented on what I have seen as a decline in the service it offers. At one time, Lafite service used to be World Class but not so over the last few years (though I recognise my understanding of service has increased in the past few years given some Michelin experiences - see other posts). A recent visit showed some promise in reviving the halcyon days of superior service and it was hoped that in this outing this renaissance would be seen to have continued. It has to be said that the Lafite oozes class - the ambience is swish corporate though romantic enough for proposals. Most would give their eye teeth to be privileged enough to have just one evening there - the fact that I have had many is not lost on me, though I do feel that one should receive fair value for the expenditure involved. It costs a lot and an assessment of whether the experience is worth it needs to be made. 

Barry Shaw and Edna Tan
Driving into town at 7pm proved quite seamless for a Puasa evening and we got into Lafite on the 7.30pm dot. There is a timeslot which, if you catch it right, you can ride a gap in the traffic right into town. Puasa means that the Muslim population are looking for somewhere to break the day's fast, and would all be in the hotels or at the stalls by 7pm and sat down ahead of the sunset ready to buka. So. Though finding a parking space took almost as long as the drive in - all floors were full as was the spillover into the neighbouring UBN Tower. We got lucky - someone seemed to be having trouble parking and while we waited for him to get it right he left. Zipped in before friend behind could zip in and steal it. I'm a great believer in that we should look for the best in people, but car parks always show our true nature, n'est-ce pas? 

Chris Chew and Sanjeev
Everyone was crowded into the small reception bar and quaffing the zippy Duval-Leroy Rose and making lots of noise. It was a bit cramped though no-one seemed to mind too much and were happy clinking glasses and enjoying the jostling. The downside was that refills from staff proved impossible since they could not get through the crowd. This is where rugby training comes in and one can bob and weave ones way through the scrum to the man with the bottle. The Rose felt a bit sharp and in need of a canape to soften its edge, but it soon got replaced with a Pol Roger which was belter - cold crisp bubbles popping in the mouth and with a delightful throat ripping, thirst slaking finish. Just the thing for a sore throat and a perfect way to break the thirst.

Li Dong and Pitt Lee
Everyone got the call to seat and moved into the dining room. The tables had been set Chinese style round rather than Western style long which made for a more visible seating arrangement. Though occasionally one is not really able to engage with friends across the other side of the table. So it goes. The restaurant had basically been given over to IWFS for the night which made for nice space between tables and ensuing sense of distance. The Lafite ambience is refined, with small halogen spots dimly lighting on main areas - these proved a bit warm when shining on the bejacketed men and those with ties must have been a bit heated. But a quick turn up of the aircon always can solve a temperature issue. 

Lafite Restaurant
Brief speech from President David before breaking the bread on the table and the Foie Gras was out. Bread was very good and necessary to soak up the bubbles and make way for the entree. The 2010 Rieussec was poured and I could hear the Kiwi somewhere screaming "infanticide" but it was the only Sauteurnes we had in the cellar so out it had to come on suggestion of Sommelier Ben. And quite right too - Sauteurnes and FG is the perfect pairing of crunchy sweet wine with mushy gunky throat coating Foie Gras. 

The Rieussec was full peach and apple syrup infused with enough alcohol to render the whole with a crispy drinkability on its own.  

The Foie Gras
The Foie Gras was lovely - that sweet intestinal smooth pate feel inside the cheeks with the red wine jelly giving a gelatin undercurrent. The Brioche was a bit on the fluffy side but firm enough to underpin the whole - I generally prefer my carbo a bit crisper. Balsamic reduction was two dots on the plate which was not really enough to do anything. The combo was nice enough, a sweet gooey chew all slippy and sloppy and coating the roof of the mouth and giving that oily pasted feel across the tongue and cheeks. The perfect foil for the cleansing quality of the darling Rieussec to come in and scrape everything clean and clear. Must be how the drains feel after a good swoosh with the Clorox and Dettol. 

Creamy Oyster and Haddock Soup
Decks got swiftly cleared and on came the white, a Sauvignon from old faithful Alois Lagerder. We've been quaffing wines from this winemaker across a good couple of years with the IWFS. They often surprise wonderfully on the upside and tonight they kept that record brilliantly intact. Initially a bit acidic on the throat, it showed its chops as a superb food wine when paired with the soup. Traditionally, no wine pairs well with soup, but the Lagerder did a sterling job, giving good fruit and dry stone minerality to counter the cream and puree. Clean and clear as a razor, it felt like drinking spring water from a flint stream - light, even texture and leaving a feeling of somehow being cleansed, as if the throat had just got baptised. Very good comments on the Sauvignon from the table and praised as a very good find, though it did need the food. 

The soup itself was a lovely creamy slurp leading to a textured creamy kiss on the inside of the cheeks. The little dab of pepper was a good suggestion and brought the cream to life. Vegetables not overcooked, lending a firm crunch to the cream. Supposedly a poached oyster somewhere in the mix, I don't remember swallowing one. I might omit the haddock next time, it gave a somewhat chewy feel to the soup. Or perhaps that was the oyster.

Rack of Veal
The rack of veal had come from the kitchen for a showing to the diners before being carted back for cutting. It came out soon after, though it would prove a good five minute wait for the fish to make the same journey to the table. We waited politely for four of these minutes and got instructed by the fish eaters to begin. The veal itself was pretty good - well cooked and good tender meat, not unlike the Charolais Beef we have eaten in Beaune but way more tender. And pretty tasteless, actually - not a lot of anything in the mouth from the meat. But then arguably that is the point - the meat is the tasteless texture around which all other tastes and flavours orbit to let them shine. And in this sense the veal was a success - the tastes were magnificent. The mashed potato was a bit reminiscent of Robuchon in Monte Carlo - creamy dreamy and luscious with the red wine gravy (claimed to be Morel sauce - whatever, it tasted like wine reduction). Very good rich French cuisine here. Though the asparagus was cooked to the point of limp. Which prompted some table comments about liking it firm and the associations this had with other things of length and degrees of firmness. I had no idea what they were talking about.

Veal with Asparagus
For whatever was the main of choice, both the Marsannay and Lynch Bages were poured so that each member got the paired wine and a glass of the other. Suggestion from Sommelier was to save some of either for the dessert. Hmmm. The Marsannay is an old friend from Pork Luck Club dinners with Dave Chan so we knew what to expect. Indeed, it was fine and frisky, though on this showing a bit fierce in the mouth - kind of like a black cherry with a curry puff bite on the cheek. Medium texture, lovely mouthfeel, good grippy finish. In contrast, the Lynch Bages was a bit disappointing - bit thin and light in the mouth, traditional Pauillac bramble and blackcurrrant terroir nose, nice tannins but a hint of tart on the finish. Not much fruit to make it really pleasant to drink nor I feel to sustain it through the years. Somewhat austere, though still approachable, but not an immediately friendly wine. Dare I say, perhaps a bit ordinary - neither lean, nor full, nor…   anything.  It was a good enough match with the food, though nothing to loudly shout about - the reduction tamed whatever tannin was there and made the wine slightly more drinkable. But slightly more ordinary at the same time. Not something I would pay a large sum to drink again. But then that's why we try them now, to see if there's anything worth raving about. Not today. Sorry. Didn't get this one at all. For the first time at an IWFS dinner I left wine in the glass. Couldn't drink it.

When the fish did finally make it to the tables, there was a silence as diners took in the visual display. The poor thing looked like it had been hacked with the cleaver and just plopped on the plate. It did not look classy. It was also apparently a bit cold.  I wonder whether the kitchen was under pressure to get the food out and perhaps the finesse got pushed to the margin as a result. 

The Turbot. Yes.
And there was a lot of noise at the fact that the Turbot had not been deboned - it was sat there, all bones visible, looking kind of like a rack of fish ribs. The fish was tasty after Lenglui asked for and got some salt and pepper. Chunky flakes which rolled off the bone and sweet chew and bite. Though the bones got to her and she could not continue with it. I finished it off and was indeed soon spitting out bones like I was at the Overseas with a Soon Hock Yee. It was hard, messy work to eat and I think this was what members were railing at. Some suggested it might have been better had the fish been filleted and simply seasoned with salt and seared. Well, and perhaps, but Chef had his reasons for this style and maybe should be judged on those rather than what a personal preference might indicate. I wonder if the real point is that bone spitting is acceptable at a Chinese restaurant but not so at the Lafite. Which seems a very fair point - we'll happily bone spit in many places; however one cannot be seen to be so doing at the Lafite, n'est-ce pas? But the fish I finished off was beautifully cooked. Thoroughly enjoyed it. Don't remember much about the side bits. 

Pairing with the Marsannay made sense, though the Turbot rocked with the remains of the white. The Marsannay got slightly flattened by the fish, though not so much that it died in the mouth. The dark cherry gave a cute pop to the fish which was firm enough to stand up to it. Fair match. Can't remember if I sipped the Lynch Bages with the Turbot. Probably. No notes. 

Dessert
Dessert was a Praline, Chocolate and Cherry Revised Black Forest. With some lovely milky ice cream. Not entirely sure what the name of the dish meant. Someone suggested deconstructed Black Forest, though perhaps unconstructed might have closer. Chef had a range of makings on the plate leaving diners to dip in or mash the lot together and consume the resulting goo ensemble. It was nicely not sweet and the ice cream was lovely, but really needed some carbo - in this, there was a bit of some crepe pancake-like thing on the plate which had that rubber taste and texture of day old roti canai. All was needed was a crisp light wafer which would have brought it all together. Notwithstanding the suggestion to keep some of the red wine with the dessert, it didn't work for me - praline and chocolate killed it off. Perhaps he was referring to keeping the Sauteurnes, but even here it would have died - whiskey can pair with chocolate, and coffee would also have done the trick but rarely will a sticky sweet Dessert wine pair well with chocolate and ice cream. Incidentally, coffee was not included in the dinner, though on leaving I did see a couple of cups on tables - which left me to wonder who would be paying for them?

So….  overall I felt Chef did very well… except for the fish. Kitchen did quite well… except for the fish. There seemed to be a major delay with the fish coming out to the tables. Staff did pretty well with the food serving and clearing. The wine service felt pretty poor, both in amounts and attitudes. Someone commented that the wine pouring felt a bit thin - though I think the wine wasn't getting to the other tables and the waiters were getting waylaid by the sweet talking chuggers and getting refills. Indeed, one sweet talker on our table who was joking in Bahasa with the wine waiter got a major refill when his two glasses were still more than half full and the wine waiter walked away leaving other glasses on the table empty. Not good. In fact, quite bad and nowhere near the standard one would expect of a restaurant of Lafite standing. 

Bachan Singh, Brian, and Jag Singh
But this is the old problem - train them up and they leave for better pay elsewhere; don't train them and give your customers the raw end of the service stick. There is a clear need for some serious training or supervision to be given to the wine waiters here on getting wine out to the far tables and not just letting themselves get bullied by the sweet talking chuggers. Either that or closer supervision by IWFS WIne people, but then you can't enjoy the dinner. Not sure how to handle this one...

Jan and Barry Shaw
So…  my hoped-for renaissance in the service at the Lafite does not seem to have taken place. As said, the restaurant still exudes great ambience and class, though for me some of the Wine Waiting staff fell down a bit on the night. One or two felt - unrefined. And possibly over-friendly. And very young, all of them. Part of me suspects that the experienced staff had once again been seconded to the Ballroom where a major function was taking place. And thoughts flew back to June 2013 and a disastrous IWFS dinner in the Sarawak room for 80 members from across the globe with an Annual Dinner going on in the main ballroom. On the business level, this is great for the Shangri-La; on my level I always seem to end up feeling disappointed. 

Do I expect too much? I think that when paying RM350 for food I have a reasonable expectation of an evening of professional level service with food at the standard of a fine dining establishment. Service wise, I didn't feel I got it - again. I got better service at a Chinese shopping mall restaurant for one quarter of what was paid for the Shang (see the recent post on the Grand Imperial). I recognise that my service expecations have increased as a result of my exposure to some excellent service at restaurants around the world. But seriously, if Lafite is still claiming to be KL's best in service terms, it is way, way behind Sage and Cilantro and Soleil. Be interesting to see how they match up to regional neighbours in Hong Kong, Singapore and (from what I am hearing) Bangkok. Perhaps the simple truth is that they think they can handle numbers when in fact they can't. Would probably be a different experience for a quiet dinner with an unstressed kitchen. 

On this showing, I would prefer not go back though I expect I will have to at some future occasion. I'd rather save the money and spend it in Paris. Or Singapore. Or Hong Kong. Seems also the hotel is now completely pork free, even the Shang Palace. So it goes. At least the parking after 7pm now seems standard, though a RM12 whack still compares to RM3 in the Wisma Lim Foo Yong around the corner and up the road. Someone could probably could do a good valet park business at the Shang by driving and parking at the LFY. Wouldn't be surprised if someone already is…  Malaysia boleh!!

The Menu
Chef Jean-Philippe

Aperitif
Duval-Leroy Rose de Saignee Brut NV
***
Duck Liver Terrine and Red Wine Jelly, Warm Homemade Brioche and Balsamic Reduction 
La Terrine de Foie Gras et Gelée de Vin Rouge, Brioche Tiède et Réduction de Balsamique 
Château Rieussec, 2010, Sauternes, France 
*** 
Creamy Oyster and Haddock Soup, Poached Oyster and Spring Vegetables 
La Crème d’Huître et Haddock, Huître Pochée et Légumes Primeurs 
Domaine Alois Lageder Sauvignon 2011
*** 
Roasted Rack of Veal, White Asparagus, Light Potato Cream and Morel Sauce 
Le Carré de Veau Rôti, Asperges Blanches, Crème de Pomme de Terre et Sauce Morille 
Château Lynch-Bages, 2008, Pauillac, France 
Or 
Roasted Turbot, Braised Onion Puree, Onion Leaves, Porcini, Red Wine and Beef Jus, Poached White Asparagus 
Le Tronçon de Turbot Poêlé, Soubise d’Oignons Braisés, Feuilles d’Oignon, Cèpes, Asperge Blanche Pochée et Sauce Vin Rouge 
Domaine Charles Audoin Marsannay La Charme aux Pretres, 2011, Burgundy, France 
*** 
Praliné, Chocolate and Cherry Revised Black Forest 
La Forêt Noire au Praliné, Chocolat et Cerise


The wines

The Wines
Duval-Leroy Rose de Saignee Brut NV
Fruit driven crisp clean and refreshing, aromas of strawberry and cherry, concentrated and with seething and scintillating bubbles that lead to a racing finish.

Château Rieussec, 2010, Sauternes, France 
A classic combination, Foie Gras and Sweet wine, which has a good complimentarity. Still in its infancy, those who recall it from our President’s dinner will relish making its re-acquaintance with its natural food pairing.

Alois Lagerder, 2011, Sauvignon, France 
Four years in bottle should have nicely mellowed this Sauvignon from the Alto Adige region near the border with Italy. Should pair well with the complex combination of Oyster and Smoked Haddock and provide some mouth texture relief after the Sauteurnes.

Château Lynch-Bages, 2008, Pauillac, France 
As with the 2009, not an easy year for Bordeaux. Notwithstanding, this classic Bordeaux from the Pauillac region should be a very good combination with the delicate Veal and the Morel sauce. 

Domaine Charles Audoin Marsannay La Charme aux Pretres, 2011, Burgundy, France 
Ben suggests to slightly chill this “charming” Cote de Nuits Pinot Noir so as to bring a light freshness to this meaty fish. D’accord!!

Thanks to Jan Shaw for most of the photographs in this post.

Sunday, April 6, 2014

Artisan Wines at Soleil - hmmm...


Hmmm….   feels difficult to grade this one. On paper, it looked amazing - the menu, the wines, the venue. And foodwise there were excellent standout dishes. It just didn't quite feel… value. Not to say that it wasn't value, given the wines and the food; I just didn't…  quite….  FEEL the value. Whenever I eat more bread during dinner or make a sandwich at home for supper, then the belly clearly feels there was not enough whack in the evening's food. And being sober enough to actually make the sandwich and remembering to drink water suggests the wine pourings were perhaps a bit thin. But as elsewhere said, there is always a context. Perhaps it was coming off the back of a hugely generous wine dinner hosted by Cave and Cellar at the Enfin a few days previously. Perhaps I'm getting greedy. Certainly not losing any weight - putting it on if anything… 

Upstairs at the Soleil
Arriving at the Soleil and getting greeted by both Yuhei and Effandie and climbing the stairs we got met by Dave Chan of Artisan Cellars and a glass of his very pleasant champagne. Artisan Cellars are Singapore based and have just opened an office here in KL. Their focus is on wines that naturally have an artisanal quality about them and seek to bring them to wider market. In my readings, there seems occasionally to be a sense of the cult about some of the wine makers in this particular genre. But it was an opportunity to try some wines of the style and so get direct experience on the tongue rather than the views of others.

The NV Chartogne Taillet Sainte Anne Brut champagne itself had good character and taste, not too sweet and with medium body. A blend of 60% Chardonnay and 40% Pinot Noir, the notes talk about "mineral driven…bright and floral, with a supple refined texture and a subtle richness and depth on the attack… the finish is lively, dry and precise." We got not much in the way of fruit but did get good clean bubbles which for some reason I was able to smell the biscuit in them. The staff were not too enthusiastic in refilling, probably feeling the need to retain some for the Oysters. Well, and okay, but there seemed to be quite a few empty glasses being toted in the pre dinner mingling which felt not quite right.

We were also advised to try the Champagne in a white wine glass instead of the flute. Recent new vinous nous suggests that flutes do not show off all of a sparkling wine's expressions and these can be better appreciated in a traditional glass. The white wine glass did change the wine's character, though the bubbles evaporated more quickly. We'll see. Time was, sparkling was thought only servable in the Marie Antoinette cups, still beloved of wedding fountains. Think I'll stick to flutes.

Fine de Claire Oysters - ooo la la...
The lovely and freshly baked bread rolls came out and so did our Fine de Claire Oysters. Fine de Claire Oysters come from Marennes-Oléron in Southwest France. The name derives from the refining process these oysters undergo before being sent to market. For one or two months, they are placed in the Marennes-Oleron salt marsh ponds known as "claires" which presumably "clear" the oyster and give it its delicate less fleshy texture and slight hazelnut taste. It was less firm in texture than those we normally get at the hotel buffet, and somewhat smaller. The trouble with oysters is that they slip right down before one has the real chance to feel any texture. Having said that, these were indeed lovely, and giving a nice salty zing to the fizz. 

Steamed Dutch Mussels
The Dutch Mussels that quickly followed were brilliant - amazingly fresh and steamed in white wine with some raw chopped Serai (lemongrass) added for taste and crunch to the broth which really set the thing off. Perhaps a shade more pepper bite in the broth would have added a slight zing for taste, but that's just me. Pairing with the light 2010 Domaine De L'Ecu "Orthogneiss" Muscadet made sense, nothing too complicated to get in the way of the food. Apparently available in restaurants such as Noma, Bernardin and Astrance, the notes spoke of "one of the best bottles in the region. The marine spirit is immediately suggested by an intense minerality." For us it gave meadow fresh apples and acacia on the nose and a light lemony tinge on the tongue. Light and easy, with enough body to maintain interest. Must have missed the minerality. Not sure if it would match Malaysian or Chinese cuisine, but it was excellent with the shellfish. 

Grilled Turbot
The delightful grilled Turbot felt like it had a drizzle of oil and butter which helped to boost the Saffron sauce and give an overall rich texture to the dish. This helped it pair very well with the oily and voluptuous 2011 Vin De Pays "Romaneaux Destezet" Blanc from Herve Souhaut. A blend of 90% Roussanne and 10% Viogner, the notes talk of "a glorious, floral wine that has freshness and elegance as attributes and avoids the unctuous flabbiness and excessive oakiness that wines from this area can suffer from. It is wonderful and generous but also precise and true." Elsewhere, Wine Anorak says "..they are utterly beautiful, elegant creations, made from old vines with very little sulphur dioxide added." We found it nicely balanced with chewy apricots and spice tropical fruits, it retained just enough acidity for the fish to cut through and produce a velvet opulence swishing around in the mouth. Fabulous dish and a great match. 
Two Lenglui
The 2010 Marsannay Cuvee Marie Ragonneau from Charles Audoin had better balance, though a bit farmyard on the nose. The Burghound notes talk of "…aromatically similar to the Bourgogne but a lot more complexity to the ripe and distinctly earth-suffused nose. There is good detail and punch to the attractively layered favours that are phenolically mature tannins on the balanced and solidly persistent finish. This is a lovely wine that should reward well short term cellaring."  Nice light cherry, balanced with chewy tannins, spicily sweet. Classically Burgundian - light and easy and drinkable. Though the table felt it would not really be a keeper. Maybe with about two years left in the bottle. But it showed well tonight and drank well with the tenderloin.

In contrast, the 2011 Gevrey-Chambertin Vielle Vignes from Olivier Bernstein showed a big, bold nose of herbs. People were getting tarragon, rocket and dandelion. The Burghound notes say "A notably ripe nose of dark berries, earth and underbrush leads to rich, round and quite suave middle weight flavours that possess a lovely sense of underlying tension of the delicious, well balanced and persistent finish. A quality villages that should be approachable young if desired." Certainly very young in the mouth with fair fruit with sharp bitter tannins and shades of stalk on the finish. Quite a demanding wine, and not one to be drunk alone. For me, it didn't buzz any bells. The Gevrey somehow "felt" artisanal, with perhaps too much character and not enough refinement that I could detect. I also did not feel there to be enough fruit or acidity for it to be a keeper. It did get better down the bottle and showed off its fruit, spice and pepper cherry character. It was just… not really enjoyable to drink. Lacked a degree of finesse that I somehow have got used to. Maybe it worked with the Pigeon. Didn't do much for the Beef.

Beef Tenderloin
Service of the tenderloin was quite erratic with several coming out quite late. One can normally give some leeway, but with only 27 diners it needs pointing out. My tenderloin felt a bit overdone on the edges but got better into the meat. Lovely texture and taste with the char adding enough for crunch. The potato was equally excellent. 

Neighbour Richard had sent his back, having previously asked for rare and getting medium. When it came, I snagged a taste. Wow. So this is how it would taste to the lions. Lean and raw, chewy. Now I understand the appeal of rare, though the meat needs to be top quality. It could also have been perhaps a 100g more of it on the plate which would have tipped the balance more to the better side of replete. 

Chocolate Fondant - magnifique...
The Chocolate Fondant Dessert was wonderful. Dark chocolate nibs with a coconut bite and butter taste. Rich chocolate goo in a souffle chocolate crusty crunch sponge and milky smooth ice cream. Darling, total and absolute darling.  

In sum, the food was very good, the champagne okay, the muscadet light, the Roussanne firm and bold, the Marsannay a classic easy burgundy and the Gevrey a bit TOO artisan. Soleil is legend for its fish and tonight was up to its usual stellar standard. I think I have said elsewhere that the meat dishes do not match the fish standard, though they are getting better. Not sure if portions are shrinking. No one else has said so it's probably just me. Feeling was that the wines were a bit the wrong side of price friendly for what they were. I'm all for biodynamic and organic wines and will pay some premium for them. But the premium here felt a bit too heavy compared to what is available in the market. And from this experience, the artisanal may well be an acquired taste. Nonetheless, a productive educational experience and good exposure to a wine style we don't often get. They mostly paired extremely well with the European style food at Soleil but might have a hard time with other cuisines in this part of the world. 

The Wines
MENU
2 Fine de Claire Oysters
NV Chartogne Taillet Sainte Anne Brut

Steamed Dutch Mussels with White Wine and Lemongrass
2010 Domaine de L'Ecu Muscadet de Sevre et Maine Sur Lie "Orthogneiss"

Grilled Atlantic Turbot with sauteed Green Asparagus and Saffron Emulsion
2011 Herve Souhaut Vin De Pays "Romaneaux Destezet" Blanc

Roasted Pigeon with Sauteed Baby Spinach, Natural Jus and Sweet Corn Croquette
OR
Pan Seared Black Angus Beef Tenderloin with Sauteed Baby Spinach, Red wine Sauce and Roasted Kipfler Potatoes
2010 Charles Audoin Marsannay Cuvee Marie Ragonneau
2011 Olivier Bernstein Gevrey-Chambertin Vielle Vignes

Valrhona Araguani Chocolate Fondant with Turmeric Ice Cream

April 3, 2014

Monday, June 3, 2013

Amazing Crab and Steak at Rekondo!!


Rekondo, San Sebastian
April 19th 2013

Outside the Rekondo, San Sebastian
Rekondo is slipping into the mists of fading memory, though it was a memorable lunch and one worth repeating should the opportunity arise.

Rising lazily at 8am and sauntering down for a full breakfast at the Hotel Londres, we had a couple of hours for morning sightseeing around San Sebastian town. 

It was a bit rainy as we set off, armed with hotel map and umbrella and directions from the concierge. The foodies in the group had opted to go in search of the Spanish breakfast churrillo - sweet deep fried dough traditionally eaten with chocolate. Some of the ladies naturally wanted to shop and the gentlemen kept them company, carrying the bags and taking photos. 

Inside the Rekondo, San Sebastian
The small part of San Sebastian that we were able to tour showed it to be a pretty town. The pedestrian area had lots of trees that were starting to blossom, and the wet grey skies quickly dissolved to sparkling blue as a glorious morning made itself known to this part of the planet. We went to the new Cathedral and shopped our way back through the old town to the old cathedral before walking back to the hotel along the boardwalk around the east half of the bay. 

There's a charm about San Sebastian. Nestling at the gateway to the Bay of Biscay, there is some serious wealth here alongside the occasional poverty of the street sleepers, though none seem to sit in judgement of the other.  It is. Permitted.  Live and let me live. The occasional police presence felt professional and firm, though as a visitor it is difficult to imagine how this feels to the native Basques with their continuing history of relations with the mainland Spain. But it felt safe and comfortable and people went about their business seemingly oblivious to the little white boy taking photos of his Lenglui in the warm Cantabrican sun.

We ambled back to the hotel to unload the booty and grab a quick change before boarding the bus for a ten minute barrel ride up the hill to the west of the bay for our lunch at Rekondo. 

Our lunch, ageing nicely
Rekondo had been built up on the foodie websites as the stuff of steak legend, with a wine cellar containing 150,000 bottles to pair with it. We saw the hand written wine list parked on the table as we walked in, looking like some Basque version of a Gutenburg Bible - all leather bound and priceless. So expectations were running high as we took our seats in the roomy and airy restaurant. They were heightened even further when we saw our lunch sitting on a wooden chopping board as we entered. This thick wedge of Basque Beef looked magnificent. As with our other food gatherings, we were seated lengthways which made for good converation and ease of sharing the food. Nice light and easy breezy ambience of rustic wood windows and brown marble flagstone floor with good natural lunchtime light showing off the brilliant white heavy cotton tablecloths on which pristine serviettes and flawless glasses waited to do their duty. 

The excellent Iberico Jamon
We started off with a Brut Rose NV Champagne by Jacques Selosse. Nice bead and bubble, with a slight blood orange tinge in the glass, this was a real tongue cutter of a champagne full of sharply acidic tingling lime. Just the ticket with the lightly fluffy yet nicely crunchy croquettes that had made their way to the table. 

The Iberico Jamon soon followed and this was belter - all light, sweet and dreamy good with fat and salt and meat mixing together in a taste of porcine heaven. The white 2006 Vincent Dauvissat Chablis Grand Cru "Les Clos" chosen to match proved an excellent choice - clean and light with apples and sweet nectarines that cut  the salt and fat to let the meat shine nicely. 

Next out was something totally unexpected. Never had an emotional experience with food before, but this was amazing.

The Crab that rolled back the years
Remember that scene at the end of the movie "Ratatouille" where the rat prepares a dish for the food critic and the taste takes him back to his childhood? It was like that for me with the Spider Crab. It had been scooped out and mixed with tomato, salt, pepper and sugar and ladled back into the shell. The combo of sweet stringy crab mush of flakes and texture took me right back to days when we would buy little glass jars of Shipham's Crab Paste from the Bateman's Supermarket and have them spread on buttered toast for breakfast or tea. Forty years plus I haven't tasted this, but here it was and it was like I was right back there. For the first time, I realised the power of taste and the emotional attachments it can trigger. It was incredible. A total flood of memories, times and impressions got released by this long forgotten taste. Even more so when it got spread with butter on the baguette. The salty butter and crusty bread took the whole thing to another level. The years totally rolled back. A real emotional impact with this one. Never had anything like this before. So, so powerful. 

The crab seemed to go better with the Champagne than the Chablis. The butter and bread brought out the yeast whilst the low acidity of the Chablis didn't quite seem to have the necessary cut.

The rest of the food got pretty much forgotten in this time machine of a dish. 

Sommelier circumcising the bottles
We ended up doing a vertical of the Lopez Vina Tondonia 1991, 1981, 1976 and 1968. All Riojas, the 1991 and 1981 were white with the others being red. The wine master had an unusual way of ensuring that none of the wines would be corked - he had an iron neck cutter that was heated over an open fire and then clasped around the neck of the bottle for a while. He would then remove it and splash some cold water across the cut, instantly and cleanly snapping the glass with the wine ready for pouring. 

The 1991 was clean and full and still with enough acidity to pair well with the crab and turbot.  

In comparison, the 1981 Tondonia was thicker with the smell of sherry and texture of a medium white burgundy. Full of oil and fire with a slightly sourish note of old lemons on the back end, it made for a great partner with the somewhat oily flakes of the turbot.  The crab had gone by this time.

Rekondo Steak and Chips
The ribeye came out with chips and sauted red pepper and tasted nice. That's all I have - nice. The meat was well done and seasoned well. Perhaps the memory of Extebarri was still too fresh, perhaps that Crab destroyed any thought I might have for the remainder of the food, perhaps I was just having too much of a good time. But it was nice, especially with the 1976 Tondonia Rioja that had been decapitated to pair with it - having that aged garnet brick red tinge, but coming over like a fine burgundy with subtle sour cherries in the mouth and finish. Still so much power and life in this one - amazing for a wine nearly forty years old.

The best was yet to come. The 1968 got opened and proved even more robust whilst retaining a subtlety and class that the 1976. Fruit, smoky cherry. Amazing power and finesse. Wow wow wow wow wow.
1976 Vina Tondonia

Someone got chatting to the table next to us and found winemaker Mariano Santos Puisa of Bodegas Mariano Santos presumably on a marketing trip. We being who we are, we managed to blag him into opening a few bottles of his best for us to try. And very nice it was too. Check him out - www.bodegasmarianosantos.es

We had a 1975 Dow's Port to finish. Very fine. Oak. balance, raisins and figs, smoke. Bit like top end cough medicine.

Rekondo has a wine cellar that is the stuff of legend. 150,000 bottles, many available for sale at silly prices. Everyone trotted off to oooh and aaaaah at the cellar. Myself and lenglui figured 20 people down there would be a bit claustrophobic so we lazed and finished off the remains of the wines on the table. 

1968 Vina Tondonia
2006 Chablis "Les Clos"
And that was it. A pleasant afternoon and an amazing experience with the crab. Great food and great wines and another place to return to with friends and an appetite. Some got back on the bus to head off into town in search of Pintxos whilst others took the opportunity to walk off lunch down the hill and along the promenade back to the hotel. There was another monster wine dinner ahead of us at the Mugaritz and we figured the more space we could create ahead of it the better we would cope. We would be right.

IWFS Kuala Lumpur at the Rekondo

Rekondo
Pasao de Igueldo, 57
20008 Donostia - San SXebastian
Tel: 943 21 29 07
www.rekondo.com

REKONDO MENU as at April 2013

STARTERS
CLAMS WITH LEMON
CHOWDER
IBERIAN HAM AND LOIN
MEDALLIONS OF FOIE, TANGERINE ICE CREAM CONE AND CHERRY JAM AND RED PLUM
SALMOREJO, FLOWERS AND SPROUTS

NICE SALAD WITH ANCHOVY AND CHILLI VINAIGRETTE
URT WARM SAUSAGE, PINEAPPLE JAM AND POTATO PURÉDE
SCRAMBLED EGGS WITH MUSHROOMS
GRILLED VEGETABLES WITH HAM POWDER

CARPACCIO OF CRAYFISH, PISTACHIO VINAIGRETTE AND GUACAMOLE
SCALLOPS GRILLED IN CILANTRO AND GINGER JUICE
CHOPPED LOBSTER, PRAWNS AND SCALLOPS, BLACK OLIVE VINAIGRETTE
PIQUILLO PEPPERS STUFFED LODOSA OXTAIL
WHITE GAMBA HUELVA
FISH
CLAMS IN GREEN SAUCE
QUEUE GRILLED HAKE
RICE WITH CLAMS
GRILLED SOLE
FILLETS OF HAKE IN GREEN SAUCE
HAKE KOKOTXAS
BAKED CRAB
GRILLED COD, PIL-PIL SAUCE AND ASPARAGUS
NICE TO PIPERRADA
SQUID IN INK
GRILLED TURBOT
LOBSTER (KG)
LOBSTER (KG)
COGOTE GRILLED HAKE
MEAT
DEER ROAST WITH APRICOTS AND MANGO JAM
SUCKLING PIG CONFIT WITH APPLE COMPOTE
SIRLOIN GRILLED WITH GARNISH
GRILLED SIRLOIN
BEEF CUTLET (KG)
DESSERTS
HOMEMADE CURD
CHEESEBOARD
PINA COLADA
CREAM JELLY ROLL WITH CUBAN MOJITO
BACON CHOCOLATE BROWNIE SKY
CHEESE ICE CREAM WITH RASPBERRY COULIS
VALENCIAN
STRUDEL WHITE CHOCOLATE MOUSSE AND ORANGE SAUCESTICKS OF CINNAMON CREAM
DESSERTS WE RECOMMEND ORDERING IN ADVANCE
CHOCOLATE CAKE WITH RASPBERRY SORBET
WARM APPLE TART