IWFS Lafite - Cuisine Haut, Service Naut…

Lafite entrance

June 25th 2015 Kuala Lumpur

For the first event of the new IWFS Year, President David wanted to start with a grand bang and pick a venue that would set a tone of IWFS members enjoying eating and drinking well and being merry together. So it was that Lafite got selected to host the dinner. He had challenged Chef de Cuisine Jean-Philippe Guiard to prepare a menu with "memories of Escoffier" and had also asked Maitre D' and Sommelier Benjamin Pons to choose the wines from our IWFS Cellar to pair. Response to the members' notice was swift and enthusiastic, and following some discussion it was decided to increase numbers to absorb the waiting list of members keen to attend. In the end, 59 members confirmed.

Orchids are pretty...

I am always a bit antipathetic to the Shangri-La and its outlets. Elsewhere I have commented on what I have seen as a decline in the service it offers. At one time, Lafite service used to be World Class but not so over the last few years (though I recognise my understanding of service has increased in the past few years given some Michelin experiences - see other posts). A recent visit showed some promise in reviving the halcyon days of superior service and it was hoped that in this outing this renaissance would be seen to have continued. It has to be said that the Lafite oozes class - the ambience is swish corporate though romantic enough for proposals. Most would give their eye teeth to be privileged enough to have just one evening there - the fact that I have had many is not lost on me, though I do feel that one should receive fair value for the expenditure involved. It costs a lot and an assessment of whether the experience is worth it needs to be made. 

Barry Shaw and Edna Tan

Driving into town at 7pm proved quite seamless for a Puasa evening and we got into Lafite on the 7.30pm dot. There is a timeslot which, if you catch it right, you can ride a gap in the traffic right into town. Puasa means that the Muslim population are looking for somewhere to break the day's fast, and would all be in the hotels or at the stalls by 7pm and sat down ahead of the sunset ready to buka. So. Though finding a parking space took almost as long as the drive in - all floors were full as was the spillover into the neighbouring UBN Tower. We got lucky - someone seemed to be having trouble parking and while we waited for him to get it right he left. Zipped in before friend behind could zip in and steal it. I'm a great believer in that we should look for the best in people, but car parks always show our true nature, n'est-ce pas? 

Chris Chew and Sanjeev

Everyone was crowded into the small reception bar and quaffing the zippy Duval-Leroy Rose and making lots of noise. It was a bit cramped though no-one seemed to mind too much and were happy clinking glasses and enjoying the jostling. The downside was that refills from staff proved impossible since they could not get through the crowd. This is where rugby training comes in and one can bob and weave ones way through the scrum to the man with the bottle. The Rose felt a bit sharp and in need of a canape to soften its edge, but it soon got replaced with a Pol Roger which was belter - cold crisp bubbles popping in the mouth and with a delightful throat ripping, thirst slaking finish. Just the thing for a sore throat and a perfect way to break the thirst.

Li Dong and Pitt Lee

Everyone got the call to seat and moved into the dining room. The tables had been set Chinese style round rather than Western style long which made for a more visible seating arrangement. Though occasionally one is not really able to engage with friends across the other side of the table. So it goes. The restaurant had basically been given over to IWFS for the night which made for nice space between tables and ensuing sense of distance. The Lafite ambience is refined, with small halogen spots dimly lighting on main areas - these proved a bit warm when shining on the bejacketed men and those with ties must have been a bit heated. But a quick turn up of the aircon always can solve a temperature issue. 

Lafite Restaurant

Brief speech from President David before breaking the bread on the table and the Foie Gras was out. Bread was very good and necessary to soak up the bubbles and make way for the entree. The 2010 Rieussec was poured and I could hear the Kiwi somewhere screaming "infanticide" but it was the only Sauteurnes we had in the cellar so out it had to come on suggestion of Sommelier Ben. And quite right too - Sauteurnes and FG is the perfect pairing of crunchy sweet wine with mushy gunky throat coating Foie Gras. 

The Rieussec was full peach and apple syrup infused with enough alcohol to render the whole with a crispy drinkability on its own.  

The Foie Gras

The Foie Gras was lovely - that sweet intestinal smooth pate feel inside the cheeks with the red wine jelly giving a gelatin undercurrent. The Brioche was a bit on the fluffy side but firm enough to underpin the whole - I generally prefer my carbo a bit crisper. Balsamic reduction was two dots on the plate which was not really enough to do anything. The combo was nice enough, a sweet gooey chew all slippy and sloppy and coating the roof of the mouth and giving that oily pasted feel across the tongue and cheeks. The perfect foil for the cleansing quality of the darling Rieussec to come in and scrape everything clean and clear. Must be how the drains feel after a good swoosh with the Clorox and Dettol. 

Creamy Oyster and Haddock Soup

Decks got swiftly cleared and on came the white, a Sauvignon from old faithful Alois Lagerder. We've been quaffing wines from this winemaker across a good couple of years with the IWFS. They often surprise wonderfully on the upside and tonight they kept that record brilliantly intact. Initially a bit acidic on the throat, it showed its chops as a superb food wine when paired with the soup. Traditionally, no wine pairs well with soup, but the Lagerder did a sterling job, giving good fruit and dry stone minerality to counter the cream and puree. Clean and clear as a razor, it felt like drinking spring water from a flint stream - light, even texture and leaving a feeling of somehow being cleansed, as if the throat had just got baptised. Very good comments on the Sauvignon from the table and praised as a very good find, though it did need the food. 

The soup itself was a lovely creamy slurp leading to a textured creamy kiss on the inside of the cheeks. The little dab of pepper was a good suggestion and brought the cream to life. Vegetables not overcooked, lending a firm crunch to the cream. Supposedly a poached oyster somewhere in the mix, I don't remember swallowing one. I might omit the haddock next time, it gave a somewhat chewy feel to the soup. Or perhaps that was the oyster.

Rack of Veal

The rack of veal had come from the kitchen for a showing to the diners before being carted back for cutting. It came out soon after, though it would prove a good five minute wait for the fish to make the same journey to the table. We waited politely for four of these minutes and got instructed by the fish eaters to begin. The veal itself was pretty good - well cooked and good tender meat, not unlike the Charolais Beef we have eaten in Beaune but way more tender. And pretty tasteless, actually - not a lot of anything in the mouth from the meat. But then arguably that is the point - the meat is the tasteless texture around which all other tastes and flavours orbit to let them shine. And in this sense the veal was a success - the tastes were magnificent. The mashed potato was a bit reminiscent of Robuchon in Monte Carlo - creamy dreamy and luscious with the red wine gravy (claimed to be Morel sauce - whatever, it tasted like wine reduction). Very good rich French cuisine here. Though the asparagus was cooked to the point of limp. Which prompted some table comments about liking it firm and the associations this had with other things of length and degrees of firmness. I had no idea what they were talking about.

Veal with Asparagus

For whatever was the main of choice, both the Marsannay and Lynch Bages were poured so that each member got the paired wine and a glass of the other. Suggestion from Sommelier was to save some of either for the dessert. Hmmm. The Marsannay is an old friend from Pork Luck Club dinners with Dave Chan so we knew what to expect. Indeed, it was fine and frisky, though on this showing a bit fierce in the mouth - kind of like a black cherry with a curry puff bite on the cheek. Medium texture, lovely mouthfeel, good grippy finish. In contrast, the Lynch Bages was a bit disappointing - bit thin and light in the mouth, traditional Pauillac bramble and blackcurrrant terroir nose, nice tannins but a hint of tart on the finish. Not much fruit to make it really pleasant to drink nor I feel to sustain it through the years. Somewhat austere, though still approachable, but not an immediately friendly wine. Dare I say, perhaps a bit ordinary - neither lean, nor full, nor…   anything.  It was a good enough match with the food, though nothing to loudly shout about - the reduction tamed whatever tannin was there and made the wine slightly more drinkable. But slightly more ordinary at the same time. Not something I would pay a large sum to drink again. But then that's why we try them now, to see if there's anything worth raving about. Not today. Sorry. Didn't get this one at all. For the first time at an IWFS dinner I left wine in the glass. Couldn't drink it.

When the fish did finally make it to the tables, there was a silence as diners took in the visual display. The poor thing looked like it had been hacked with the cleaver and just plopped on the plate. It did not look classy. It was also apparently a bit cold.  I wonder whether the kitchen was under pressure to get the food out and perhaps the finesse got pushed to the margin as a result. 

The Turbot. Yes.

And there was a lot of noise at the fact that the Turbot had not been deboned - it was sat there, all bones visible, looking kind of like a rack of fish ribs. The fish was tasty after Lenglui asked for and got some salt and pepper. Chunky flakes which rolled off the bone and sweet chew and bite. Though the bones got to her and she could not continue with it. I finished it off and was indeed soon spitting out bones like I was at the Overseas with a Soon Hock Yee. It was hard, messy work to eat and I think this was what members were railing at. Some suggested it might have been better had the fish been filleted and simply seasoned with salt and seared. Well, and perhaps, but Chef had his reasons for this style and maybe should be judged on those rather than what a personal preference might indicate. I wonder if the real point is that bone spitting is acceptable at a Chinese restaurant but not so at the Lafite. Which seems a very fair point - we'll happily bone spit in many places; however one cannot be seen to be so doing at the Lafite, n'est-ce pas? But the fish I finished off was beautifully cooked. Thoroughly enjoyed it. Don't remember much about the side bits. 

Pairing with the Marsannay made sense, though the Turbot rocked with the remains of the white. The Marsannay got slightly flattened by the fish, though not so much that it died in the mouth. The dark cherry gave a cute pop to the fish which was firm enough to stand up to it. Fair match. Can't remember if I sipped the Lynch Bages with the Turbot. Probably. No notes. 

Dessert

Dessert was a Praline, Chocolate and Cherry Revised Black Forest. With some lovely milky ice cream. Not entirely sure what the name of the dish meant. Someone suggested deconstructed Black Forest, though perhaps unconstructed might have closer. Chef had a range of makings on the plate leaving diners to dip in or mash the lot together and consume the resulting goo ensemble. It was nicely not sweet and the ice cream was lovely, but really needed some carbo - in this, there was a bit of some crepe pancake-like thing on the plate which had that rubber taste and texture of day old roti canai. All was needed was a crisp light wafer which would have brought it all together. Notwithstanding the suggestion to keep some of the red wine with the dessert, it didn't work for me - praline and chocolate killed it off. Perhaps he was referring to keeping the Sauteurnes, but even here it would have died - whiskey can pair with chocolate, and coffee would also have done the trick but rarely will a sticky sweet Dessert wine pair well with chocolate and ice cream. Incidentally, coffee was not included in the dinner, though on leaving I did see a couple of cups on tables - which left me to wonder who would be paying for them?

So….  overall I felt Chef did very well… except for the fish. Kitchen did quite well… except for the fish. There seemed to be a major delay with the fish coming out to the tables. Staff did pretty well with the food serving and clearing. The wine service felt pretty poor, both in amounts and attitudes. Someone commented that the wine pouring felt a bit thin - though I think the wine wasn't getting to the other tables and the waiters were getting waylaid by the sweet talking chuggers and getting refills. Indeed, one sweet talker on our table who was joking in Bahasa with the wine waiter got a major refill when his two glasses were still more than half full and the wine waiter walked away leaving other glasses on the table empty. Not good. In fact, quite bad and nowhere near the standard one would expect of a restaurant of Lafite standing. 

Bachan Singh, Brian, and Jag Singh

But this is the old problem - train them up and they leave for better pay elsewhere; don't train them and give your customers the raw end of the service stick. There is a clear need for some serious training or supervision to be given to the wine waiters here on getting wine out to the far tables and not just letting themselves get bullied by the sweet talking chuggers. Either that or closer supervision by IWFS WIne people, but then you can't enjoy the dinner. Not sure how to handle this one...

Jan and Barry Shaw

So…  my hoped-for renaissance in the service at the Lafite does not seem to have taken place. As said, the restaurant still exudes great ambience and class, though for me some of the Wine Waiting staff fell down a bit on the night. One or two felt - unrefined. And possibly over-friendly. And very young, all of them. Part of me suspects that the experienced staff had once again been seconded to the Ballroom where a major function was taking place. And thoughts flew back to June 2013 and a disastrous IWFS dinner in the Sarawak room for 80 members from across the globe with an Annual Dinner going on in the main ballroom. On the business level, this is great for the Shangri-La; on my level I always seem to end up feeling disappointed. 

Do I expect too much? I think that when paying RM350 for food I have a reasonable expectation of an evening of professional level service with food at the standard of a fine dining establishment. Service wise, I didn't feel I got it - again. I got better service at a Chinese shopping mall restaurant for one quarter of what was paid for the Shang (see the recent post on the Grand Imperial). I recognise that my service expecations have increased as a result of my exposure to some excellent service at restaurants around the world. But seriously, if Lafite is still claiming to be KL's best in service terms, it is way, way behind Sage and Cilantro and Soleil. Be interesting to see how they match up to regional neighbours in Hong Kong, Singapore and (from what I am hearing) Bangkok. Perhaps the simple truth is that they think they can handle numbers when in fact they can't. Would probably be a different experience for a quiet dinner with an unstressed kitchen. 

On this showing, I would prefer not go back though I expect I will have to at some future occasion. I'd rather save the money and spend it in Paris. Or Singapore. Or Hong Kong. Seems also the hotel is now completely pork free, even the Shang Palace. So it goes. At least the parking after 7pm now seems standard, though a RM12 whack still compares to RM3 in the Wisma Lim Foo Yong around the corner and up the road. Someone could probably could do a good valet park business at the Shang by driving and parking at the LFY. Wouldn't be surprised if someone already is…  Malaysia boleh!!

The Menu

Chef Jean-Philippe

Aperitif

Duval-Leroy Rose de Saignee Brut NV

***

Duck Liver Terrine and Red Wine Jelly, Warm Homemade Brioche and Balsamic Reduction 

La Terrine de Foie Gras et Gelée de Vin Rouge, Brioche Tiède et Réduction de Balsamique 

Château Rieussec, 2010, Sauternes, France 

*** 

Creamy Oyster and Haddock Soup, Poached Oyster and Spring Vegetables 

La Crème d’Huître et Haddock, Huître Pochée et Légumes Primeurs 

Domaine Alois Lageder Sauvignon 2011

*** 

Roasted Rack of Veal, White Asparagus, Light Potato Cream and Morel Sauce 

Le Carré de Veau Rôti, Asperges Blanches, Crème de Pomme de Terre et Sauce Morille 

Château Lynch-Bages, 2008, Pauillac, France 

Or 

Roasted Turbot, Braised Onion Puree, Onion Leaves, Porcini, Red Wine and Beef Jus, Poached White Asparagus 

Le Tronçon de Turbot Poêlé, Soubise d’Oignons Braisés, Feuilles d’Oignon, Cèpes, Asperge Blanche Pochée et Sauce Vin Rouge 

Domaine Charles Audoin Marsannay La Charme aux Pretres, 2011, Burgundy, France 

*** 

Praliné, Chocolate and Cherry Revised Black Forest 

La Forêt Noire au Praliné, Chocolat et Cerise

The wines

The Wines

Duval-Leroy Rose de Saignee Brut NV

Fruit driven crisp clean and refreshing, aromas of strawberry and cherry, concentrated and with seething and scintillating bubbles that lead to a racing finish.

Château Rieussec, 2010, Sauternes, France 

A classic combination, Foie Gras and Sweet wine, which has a good complimentarity. Still in its infancy, those who recall it from our President’s dinner will relish making its re-acquaintance with its natural food pairing.

Alois Lagerder, 2011, Sauvignon, France 

Four years in bottle should have nicely mellowed this Sauvignon from the Alto Adige region near the border with Italy. Should pair well with the complex combination of Oyster and Smoked Haddock and provide some mouth texture relief after the Sauteurnes.

Château Lynch-Bages, 2008, Pauillac, France 

As with the 2009, not an easy year for Bordeaux. Notwithstanding, this classic Bordeaux from the Pauillac region should be a very good combination with the delicate Veal and the Morel sauce. 

Domaine Charles Audoin Marsannay La Charme aux Pretres, 2011, Burgundy, France 

Ben suggests to slightly chill this “charming” Cote de Nuits Pinot Noir so as to bring a light freshness to this meaty fish. D’accord!!

Thanks to Jan Shaw for most of the photographs in this post.

Brilliant Jolly with IWFS in Penang January 2014

Our IWFS KL had decided it was time for an expedition and sample some food outside the walls of KL city. So it was determined that a tour of Penang was necessary and it fell to Li Dong to organise, given that her work took her to Penang quite often. Twenty of us signed up. We were to make our own ways to the E&O Hotel where Li Dong had secured a brilliant rate for us. If you're gonna do something, do it in style cos it's only gonna get more expensive...

Friday January 10 2014

Lenglui and I had decided to drive to Penang and started off from KL at 8am with coffee and steamed buns at the ready for the road. Others had opted to take the Firefly air route which was a bit quicker. I like the drive and the convenience of deciding when to leave. On this occasion it was wet for most of the way, and quite badly so on the high road before Ipoh. Nasty driving when the rain is lashing - can't see much through the spray that the road throws up. Just got to punch it through. The easing rain made for a brief water stop at a rest place and breakfast around 10.30, just before the Butterworth toll. The tailback from the toll to the Penang bridge turnoff was slow but smooth and the drive through Penang to Georgetown was easy enough. Got a bit confused with the Garmin taking us to the Oriental Hotel but a quick adjustment got us to the E&O Hotel at 1pm with enough time to freshen up for our 2pm meet and bus drive for the first leg of our Penang jolly at Suffolk House. This is a heritage building which was once the residence of Sir Francis Light, effectively the founder and first Governer of Penang. 

Jeremy's Column

It was delightful - over the years the house had fallen into ruin and we saw photos of a pretty delapidated wreck of a building. The Penang Heritage Trust has done a brilliant job in securing funds to restore the house to glory, and today it is a museum and tea house and totally and deservedly on the tourist map. One of our members had actually sponsored one of the columns there and we delightfully took photos of him with his contribution. There is a tendency for Heritage projects to get short shrift in favour of grand spanking Condo Blocks and Shopping Malls which makes the restoration even more notable. The more far sighted recognnise the attraction value of such projects to the future tourism industry and appear more prepared to support than their counterparts in the more southern parts of Malaysia. We were treated to an informative and entertaining tour of the House by renowned architect Laurence Loh who oversaw the restoration project. Originally the house overlooked 180 acres of land - now it is down to one. 

Jan Shaw and Bachan Singh

We were also treated to a peculiarly Malaysian / Colonial Hi tea of Curry Puffs and Cream scones with Jam and Earl Grey tea which was most pleasant in a sweet and spicy kind of way. The overcast sky kept things agreeably cool though the bus got a bit chilly en route to the Botanical Gardens. We were treated to a Two Ringgit trip on a rickety tractor driven cart through green flora and grubby looking monkeys hopeful for food from the tourists. Again, the overcast made for a pleasant ten minute ride around the gardens. 

The funicular that normally takes people up Penang Hil had been declared out of action for repairs so we were all herded into four wheel drive cars for the fifteen minute drive up to the top. It got a bit harrowing in places where the bends were sharp and the drops quite sheer and the workmanlike vans were less than pristine in cleanliness and smell. In addition, shrieking motors and the smell of electrical burning didn't help in the confidence stakes. But we got there in one slightly shaken piece and got greeted by champagne and canapes on the bar. Which sadly we couldn't do much justice to as most of us were still feeling the effects of the scones and curry puffs to really enjoy the tidbits. But we did whack the fizz. 

The Tractor Bus at the Botanical Gardens

Penang Hill has a brilliant aspect of the Straits and the mainland and has a magnificent vista across Georgetown below. Well, it does when the sun shines - intermittent clouds made for an interrupted view, though the cool chill air was delightful. The Governor remarked that he had first set foot on the hill in the 1950s and at that time it was all green except for the Burmah Road and the Jetty. Not much green visible in Georgetown from the hill today. Indeed, thanks to overdevelopment the mountain at the back of us had gone bald and some Penangites at the time of writing were shaving their heads in protest. Good luck.

View from Penang Hill - bit cloudy

Owner and Operator of the David Brown Restaurant AK Lim was on hand to greet and mingle with the assembled and following the end of the fizz we made our way up a level to the David Brown restaurant for dinner. Lenglui insisted on calling the place Charlie Brown's since it felt more homely and pertinent than David. I was no better - I was calling it Gordon Brown's. Nothwithstanding, this is a quaint colonial style restaurant full of wood and old fireplaces and artefacts from the past. Indeed in a previous incarnation it was part of the Smokehouse group which specialised in woody old school inns. The Armitage WCs in the Gents restrooms are things one rarely sees today but mean so much to those of us who remember them from our formative times. So much water against the white porcelain...   sometimes, life can seem little more than one long pee...

In the Gardens at David Brown on Penang Hill

On previous occasions tables could be set on the grass verge by the pond to enjoy the alfresco hilltop sunset. The prospect of rain had put the veritable damper on that idea so a table for all nineteen of us had been set under the verandah. Indeed, hardly had we sat when the sky began to drizzle. The rain made the evening chill decidely cool, and the more far sighted had brought wraps and shirts to keep the chill at bay. The seats were also a bit on the low side for comfortable eating and only three cushions were apparently available. I snaffled one for the Lenglui to maintain pleasant relations. Evening was called to order by President Rajan, Li Dong introduced owner AK Lim to talk about the restaurant and I was asked to comment on the wines. Well, read off the notes that the Kiwi had thoughtfully drafted for the event.

Li Dong, Edna and Jan

Consensus was that the food was bit "okay only" though my Beef Wellington was well tasty, with firm beef and soft flaky pastry. Others found things a bit variable in doneness terms. The Waldorf Salad was fair. Wines were a bit on the young side and not overly memorable. The restaurant staff seemed to have got some of them mixed up as well, though everything ultimately got drunk. AK had brought some 18yo Single Malt whiskey for those who enjoyed a glass. I do try to resist the Scotch - my worst night terrors have been as a result of mad nights with the firewater - and did quite successfully do so on this occasion, limiting the imbibe to a single Single. Others were sucking on their glasses like calves at the teat and passing the bottle to presumably numb the senses sufficiently to forget the Four Wheel Drive ride down the hill to the bus for our return to the hotel. The diehards repaired for a nightcap at the Sarkies bar which was good drunken fun, but it led to a variable sleep for me. High tannic and alcohol in the wines don't let me sleep all the way through.

My Beef Welly - very tasty

Wines

1. Faustino Cava NV 

2. Cellar Capcanes Mas Donis Blanco 2012  

A blend of Garnacha Blanco and Macabeo. Attractive yellow golden green color; seductive fruit flavors of  peach, pear, mango,  banana; and hints of flowers and herbs; creamy and soft with crispy freshness in mouth and  medium bodied, lovely fruit and floral finish.

3. Domaine Christian Moreau Chablis 1er Cru 2010

Here the nose is both more elegant and more complex with really lovely purity to the aromas of sea breeze, pear, floral notes and spice hints. There is an attractive raciness to the detailed and beautifully intense mineral-driven medium-bodied flavors that possess excellent precision on the balanced, long and attractively complex finish. This is really lovely juice fashioned with admirable finesse that is sufficiently forward that it could be enjoyed now or cellared for a few years first. (Allen Meadows 91)

Preparing for the ride back down the hill...

4. St Clair Omaka Pinot Noir 2012 

Medium to deep ruby colored, the 2010 Omaka Reserve Pinot Noir is scented of kirsch, warm mulberries and raspberry compote with touches of black pepper, balsamic and spice box. Medium bodied with a good amount of evolving red berry and spice flavors in the mouth, it has a low to medium level of very finely grained tannins, crisp acid and a long finish. (Parker 90)

5. Catena Zapata Nicasia Malbec 2007 

The single vineyard Malbecs begin with the 2007 Nicasia Vineyard Malbec. It was barrel-fermented and aged for 18 months in 100% new oak including a racking into a second set of new barrels (the so-called “200% new oak” treatment). A glass-coating opaque purple/black in color, it offers up a splendid nose of toasty new oak, earth notes, exotic spices, black cherry and black raspberry. This is followed by a plush, layered, intensely flavored wine with potential complexity, precision balance, and a seamless finish. (Parker 95)

Saturday January 11 2014

On the Rickshaws

Shaken awake at the ungodly time of 7.30am for showering and getting ready for an 8.30am away in the bus which naturally became 9 o'clock. Two rapid coffees didn't do the usual trick for the morning business. Breakfast was not brilliant - tasteless fruit and bread. 

Does this thing have a meter?

Brief briefing from tour guide Chua of which nothing stuck in the befuddled morning brain before climbing on to the bus for a five minute drive to Fort Cornwallis which included an entertaining story about touching the cannon to ensure fertility through presumably not firing blanks. Off the bus and we then all got loaded onto bicycle driven rickshaws for a ten minute and at times scary ride ride along to the Leong San Tong Khoo Kongsi, a temple style affair with a dedication temple on one side of a palazzo square and a theatre stage on the other. Scary because the rickshaw (being pedalled along by the somewhat elderly chap at a pace somewhat slower than a brisk walk) was competing with cars on main roads that motored past at a rapid lick within inches of our rickshaws. Not happy, especially when hung over though accidents seem very few. Next time will walk.

Lenglui resisting playing with the Lion's balls

The Khoo Kongsi is well worth a look with its massively ornate carvings out of granite and lots of red and gold. Wonderful stonework, and a number of admonitions against rolling the balls inside the mouths of the Chinese Lions. There's probably a joke about putting ones balls in the lion's mouth but it feels a bit seedy. Seems they have dinners and functions here. Makes sense - hugely atmospheric. RM10 felt a bit stiff though, but presumably they don't get much help from Municipal financial sources so needs must. Entrance is via the hidden Cannon Lane but is well worth searching out.

At the Khoo Kongsi Penang

Khoo Kongsi Stonework

The Kongsi was followed by a stroll around the Heritage area. In previous trips to Penang we normally don't do the Tourist route and only now did we see what we have been missing. Lots of quaint stores and shophouses loaded with charm and history. Penangites have taken to developing street art and walls are decorated with either paintings or metalwork style cartoons and text. We only did one main street but clearly there is much here to enjoy. We were told that the plan is for Georgetown to become walkable from one side to the other in forty minutes. Traffiic is sufficiently slow due to the rickshaws, though complete absence of motor transport would be most welcome in this part. 

Amazing Tiled Tiger

We finished our walking tour of the heritage area ahead of time so we crossed a main road to take in a walk along the Jetties. A UNESCO World Heritage site, these are wooden homes built on wooden jetties that go out to the sea. Each one has a different name and generations seem to live and die here. There were a lot of tourists walking up and down our particular jetty and the enterprising Chinese who live here seem to make do with selling drinks and knick knacks. Temple at the end of one jetty to pay homage to the sea gods. Up to this time, most of the morning had passed in a hangover and lack of sleep daze. There was one spark of humour - a Mat Salleh was sunning himself on his Jetty and from our angle looked like he was somewhat underdressed and sunning his…. underparts. My remark of being hopeful that he was wearing his underpants drew some chuckles. As we passed it became evident that he was indeed in a sufficient sartorial state of dress.

Metalwork Art

Traditional Nyonya house - lots of red and gold

Back on the bus for a short ride to visit a traditional Nyonya house. This was a magnificent home kept in traditional style with loads of history and clothes and glassware and bits and pieces to entertain and photograph. The old TV and radio from the forties was quaint, as was a huge portrait camera. Perfect period setting for TV and movie shoots. The porcelain peices were exquisite and Lenglui bought a couple of pieces. 

The Seven Terraces

Rather than back on the bus, it was easier to walk to lunch at the Kebaya Restaurant at Seven Terraces, a renovated row of shophouses on a backstreet of the town. Normally only open for dinner, our specially arranged lunch was delightful. There are also apartments which can be rented out for families looking to stay. Billed as Nyonya fusion style cuisine the Nyonya was definitely in evidence and of a most excellent standard - slightly sweet with firm heat rather than scorching fire from the spice. The food dishes proved to be great matches with the wines - our old friend Prosecco di Prosecco to start, the Selbach Riesling to follow and Ornellaia's third wine Le Volte to finish. The Riesling was inspired - crisp peach and apple honey sweetness soothed the Nyonya fire on the Chicken Curry a treat. the PdP was a pleasant tongue settler too - sweetly crisp bubbles with just the right amount of acidity to soothe rather than scrape which set off the vegetable based Pai Tee and Otak Otak a treat. 

Thai Soft Shell Crab Salad - crunchy!

The 2011 Le Volte felt a bit young and vibrant for the food, though apparently it went a treat with the lamb shank which I never take. The Geezer finished off the remaining red and would have had the final bottle opened had it not been for the consensus running against him. By this time I was starting to regain a bit of vim following the PdP. Brief conversation about our lot as Expats in Malaysia and our varying forms of residence status. The Governor shared that in his time he had known of two people on PR who had been given 24 hours notice to leave. Something to be avoided for sure.

Dishes we tried

Kebaya Ban Xeo - crispy wafers stuffed with shredded chicken, bean sprouts, crispy tofu and stir fried vegetables in a tamarind sauce

Lenglui and the Kiwi

Pai Tee - Crispy "top hats" of saltwater school prawns with fresh julienned vegetables and a sweet chili and coriander sauce

Otak Otak - Red snapper cooked with garlic and turmeric and baked in a crispy pastry

Thai Soft Shell Crab Salad - with chili lime dresing, green apples and pomegranate

Grilled Chicken Kapitan - with a paste of chili, garlic, shallots and candle nuts

Prawn Geng - Wild caught prawns in a curry of turmeric and lemongrass

Hong Bak Lamb - Prime New Zealand lamb shank sous vide for 48 hours and served in its jus

Sambal Goreng - Sauteed French beans and baby corn, lemongrass, shallots and belacan coconut cream with cashew nuts

Pandan Creme Brulee - egg custard spiked with pandan essence and served with brandy snaps

Cheers!!

Wines

1. Tenimenti Prosecco di Prosecco NV 

2. Dr Loosen Graacher Himmelreich Kabinett Riesling 2011

Loosen’s 2011 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling offers the sort of hidden sweetness that sets-off ripe fruit (here primarily pear-like); enhances levity, and proves highly versatile at table. Subtly smoky and crushed stone notes add interest to a soothing palate and a prolonged, satisfyingly sappy finish. (Parker 89)

3. Ornellaia Le Volte 2011

The 2011 Le Volte dell'Ornellaia (a 50-30-20 blend of Merlot, Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon) is a gorgeous and silky smooth red wine that imparts bright tones of red cherry, blackberry, sweet spice and chocolate. The wine's youthful freshness and fruit-forward mouthfeel is ultimately what makes it such a pleasure to drink. (Parker 90)

More Cheers at Seven Terraces

Back on the bus to go back to the hotel for a well needed nap and a spruce up for a 6pm meet on the bus and a forty minute drive to the Rasa Sayang Resort for dinner at the Ferringhi Grill. Dress code had been set at Jackets and Medallions. The trip took us along the coast road which is now pretty much lined with condo blocks. Our Tour Guide was giving us prices for all the condos that we passed on the way. He could double as a Realtor. Maybe he does.

At the Rasa Sayang, the Ferringhi Grill had been moved to a new upstairs location and gave a charming sunset view from seats strategically positioned. It was a full house for the night. We were sat away from this near the bar where the champagne was flowing. A shade too sweetly acidic for personal taste, and one bottle indeed remained unopened as would one white later in the evening. Possibly a bit too much of a good thing given our lunch and previous night, but we struggled manfully and womanfully. 

Struggling with the Cava - oh the pain, the pain...

Our group was joined by two members from IWFS Penang who promised a tour of Penang's best street food on our return. Matching wine should be fun.

Making friends - IWFS KL and IWFS Penang

Vodka and Watermelon with Caviar Blini

For the Ferringi Grill food, the appetizers were belter - carpaccio of beef was unusually tender, salmon with horseradish was succulent and creamy and blue cheese grapes were stellar. At the table, the Amuse bouche of watermelon and vodka was something we could have drunk all night. Can't remember much about the FG Starter, though the lobster ravioli failed due to undercooked pasta and oversweet meat. My beef was nicely done though the jus was a bit rich for taste. My neighbour's lamb was well overdone though others said theirs was perfect. The dessert was very good by all accounts - mine got passed along the table since I find chocolate to get in the way of the wine. 

Seared Foie Gras

So it would seem to be a bit variable in the kitchen. Winewise, the Lafon Macon Verze is an old favourite - crisp fruit driven white burgundy. The Stonier Pinot was excellent - balanced, good cherry and pepper and superb body. Supple tannins and overall superb structure. A well built wine. Our 2004 Armailhac drank nicely - standard right bank Bordeaux with good Merlot feel and Cabernet mouth. Good body, chewy fruit and tannin and a crisp velvet finish. We also finished off the leftover Le Volte from lunch though one of the Macon Verze got left undrunk.

Lobster Ravioli - a bit sad...

Menu

Amuse Bouche

Vodka Scented with Watermelon Juice with Caviar Blini

Seared Foie Gras - balsamic reduction, rocket, strawberries, brioche bread and chocolate

Blue Shell Lobster Ravioli - saffron foam, basil oil and fennel salad

Pomegranate Granite - with champagne

Grilled Beef Tenderloin - cap mushroom puree, glazed baby carrots, peas, Zucchini and truffle merlot sauce

Lamb Rack - Dijon herb crust, rosemary gnocchi, glazed baby carrots, basil oil and merlot sauce

Canadian Cod - sauteed garden vegetables, roasted potatoes and lemon butter sauce

Chocolate Symphony - pudding, mousse, ice cream and feresh berries

Coffee or Tea - Petit Fours

Grilled Beef Tenderloin

Wines

1. Deutz Champagne NV 

Made from roughly one-third each of chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunier.   Light yellow.  Toasty lees, poached pear and lemon rind on the pungent nose.  Offers an array of sappy citrus and orchard fruit flavors and becomes spicier with air.  The lemon and lees notes come back on the broad, clear finish. (Tanzer 90)

2. Alois Lageder Sauvignon Blanc 2011 

A crisp style of Sauvignon Blanc more akin to the Loire style, dry with grapefruit and citrus dominating.

Lamb Rack at Ferringhi Grill

3. Heritiers Lafon Macon Uchizy Les Maranches 2011 

There is excellent volume to the clean, pure, crisp and beautifully intense flavors that culminate in a very dry and energetic finish. This would also make a fine choice for a house white. (Allen Meadows 89)

4. Stonier Reserve Pinot Noir 2011

A medium bodied Pinot which has a deceptively light ruby sheen but with a well rounded structure to the wine. One of the most well weighted, complex and floral pinots from a cool region of Australia.

Chocolate Symphony

5. Chateau d’Armailhac 2004 

A dark ruby color is accompanied by crisp acids, sweet cranberry, black cherry and darker fruit aromas, and a clean, pure, classically built medium-bodied, elegantly wrought wine will benefit from another 2-3 years cellaring and should keep for 12-15 years. (Parker 89) 

At the restaurant, new member Lydia was celebrating a birthday and requested a song which the hotel crooners didn't know but I happened to. So she had a serenade of Don McLean's "Vincent" That was it - the bus ride back to the hotel became a raucous singalong all the way, topped by a rock and roll rap by the Kiwi. Others went to nightcap, we went to sleep. Well, tried to. 

Sunday 12th January 2014

Another variable night sleepwise, waking up and down for late breakfast of coffee and croissant. Everyone else seemed well chipper and ready to do battle with the day. I do envy those who seem able to chug a skinful of booze and wake up as if nothing had happened. We left the hotel to take a sweaty walk for an early lunch of Assam Laksa, Char Kwey Teoh and O-Tien at an old haunt on the Burmah Road. Which ended up a bit disappointing on this occasion - the consensus was it was not nearly as tasty as was remembered from previous visits. 

On the walk back to hotel we bought biscuits for the Duchess and Loh Bak to take back for Sifu in KL. I rested up in the hotel whilst the others went to Straits Quay for a wander. The rest was good and necessary - all the partying does seem to take a toll on this body so a decent rest prior to the four hour drive back to KL gets one sufficiently rested. The actual drive was thankfully uneventful though a bit wet in spots and consequently slow, but ultimately we made good time and arrived home just as the sun was setting. 

In all, a brilliantly organised trip - we saw bits of Penang we don't normally visit which made for a hugely entertaining and memorable trip. Most enjoyable indeed.