IWFS DELHI AGRA JAIPUR FEBRUARY MARCH 2017 - DAY EIGHT AND EPILOGUE

View from Jaipur Hilton

IWFS Delhi, Agra and Jaipur Day Eight - Monday 6th March 2017 - drive to New Delhi Airport and home

Not much to say here. Packed ahead of breakfast, same deal as the day before, checked out at reception, bags got loaded into the car at 9am for an uneventful five hour (make that six with lunch) drive to the airport. More chit chat with driver, passed the time, had a forgettable chapati and dhall lunch at some roadside air conditioned place on the way.  The aim was to get there ahead of the expected jam that would kick in around 4pm which would apparently add another two hours to the drive time. Which I could quite believe. The advice of our friends to fly everywhere came to mind at this point. So it goes. In the unlikely event that there will be a next time, this is what will be done. 

Boy trying to sell pots at a toll booth

The downside is that one spends an inordinate amount of time sitting around and waiting for check in gates to open. And there is not much to see and do at New Delhi airport. There are some hotels in the Aerocity complex, but then the hassle of getting the bags onto a cab to get there and then to get back in time for the flight - couldn't be arsed. So we parked near a coffee stand and shared a sandwich of something and idled the time. I walked around the Hall a few times just to exercise. Couple of shops, two Elephant statues that lorded over all, loads of people of all colours and backgrounds. 

Eventually the gate opened, all got checked in (no memory) through and onto the plane (no memory) flight and landing at KLIA (no memory) and into the KLIA Limo and home (no memory). 

EPILOGUE

Camels also got... 

India (well, the Golden Triangle of New Delhi, Agra and Jaipur) is hot, dusty and demanding, and I pity anyone having to live there in the squalor and dilapidated conditions we saw in the towns outside of (and sometimes inside of) the cities we visited or passed through on the bus or in the car. The roads and traffic seem to demand constant attention, though perhaps this is something that one can acclimate to since there were was only one minor accident I saw throughout all the hours on the roads. The constant blaring of horns to either tell people you were near or to remind them to get out of the way was headache inducing - noise pollution at its absolute worst. The congestion is desperate, though traffic somehow seemed to keep moving albeit at a dreadfully slow pace - rarely was there an absolute stop. 

The corner shop

I think it was the cows that got to me. Taking their own sweet time to cross or amble along the middle of the road in search of a mosquito free space seemed….  inconsiderate. I know that the cow is holy and that the middle of the road is the best place to sit so that mosquitoes are prevented from getting there due to the pollution generated by all the millions of cars. But it somehow seemed to summarize one of the prevalent attitudes of many of the nation. We are happy to sit on our arse and be free of mosquitoes and be worshipped. And we will beg. And people will give to us. Yes and thank you. Hmmm....

Let's MOOOOOOOO-ve it ladies!!

The frequent and seemingly random changes of rules I got hit with at some occasions also rankled - limits on payment in cash at the Leela, can't take in cameras to the President's House, can't have your walking chair (oh, maybe you can) - annoying and irritating. Incredible India? More like Incredibly Irrititating India…

Our lunch destination

And the poverty is…   wrenching. Families parked together at the roadsides and traffic lights, hands outstretched for any scraps that might be dropped from any white skin visitor who is clearly light years distant in terms of wealth and income. Though in contrast there were signs of enterprise and survival in this harsh and unforgiving roadside environment. I remember on the ride back to the airport, one (he must have been) eight year old at a toll gate in the blazing sun going from truck to truck trying to sell clay fired pots. There seems to be an occasional grit in the people, that no matter how poor, somehow they will make something out of what they have. Though the easy way is to beg from the massively wealthy visitor who is clearly light years away in terms of wealth and income. 

So that was India. Been there, done it, got the t-shirt and the photos, no desire to return if the rest of India is the same (I am assured it is not - the South is much more relaxed, doing the House Boats in Kerala). Having been there, when you come back there are some things you take so much for granted at home that get thrown into complete relief. For me, it was so good to be able to clean teeth with tap water and not have see the darn cows in the middle of the road and no horns blaring - despite the occasional road rage from the Mat Bikers, in comparison to India, driving in Malaysia is a breeze.

Inside lunch - bread and dhall as I recall, maybe some chicken...

It was also nice to come home to some Char Siew Rice - the tastes of the world are wonderful but there ain't no food like the soul food. If anything, that is what all these overseas jollies reinforce time and again. Treasure the local delight but your belly always knows where its spiritual home is. Cheers!!

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The Road to Delhi

The  Elephants at New Delhi Airport

Namaste!! 

IWFS DELHI AGRA JAIPUR FEBRUARY MARCH 2017 - DAY SIX

IWFS Delhi Agra and Jaipur Day Six

Saturday 4th March 2017 - Drive to Jaipur

Can't seem to find any photos for this day. Remember taking some, though also recall they were pretty naff. Maybe they got binned. So it goes. Maybe they will show.

Having packed the night before, rose quite early to a bright sunshine day. Lenglui and I would be spending quite a few hours in a car driving to Jaipur with new friend Richard who would join and share the costs. Car had been organised by new friend and tour organiser Arun Varma - well recommended if you find yourself in Delhi or Agra and in need of tours being organised 

(arunallways@gmail.com, arun@allwaystravels.com, mobile +91-99100-23342, office +91-11-45666999)

We lugged the cases to breakfast and parked them near reception. Got some nonsense email purportedly from Paypal about password change which generated a massive panic and me trying unsuccessfully to call Singapore to block it. It looked totally genuine, phone and all,  though I could not access the email from which it came. Ultimately turned out to be a phish scam. Bloody good one though. Cost a damn fortune in phone calls, though. Hope the bastard emailer's next shit is a fucking durian. 

The organisers had kindly arranged for framed photos of shots taken at the Taj Mahal to be given to all the members, which was most thoughtful. Thought it seems there was one ingrate who had decided that the photo was not a nice one and consequently determined not to take it. So, closing an eye to the weight, I souvenired it for the homeward trip as a gift for someone. 

We said our farewells to friends who were going back to Delhi and onwards. Found organiser Arun talking to our driver and settled with him in cash (we needed to unload some of the rupee). Bags got loaded and then off for a five hour drive to Jaipur which went pleasantly fast thanks to Richard being a good storyteller and talking about his travels and life. Also our driver was quite a talker and knowledgeable about Delhi and Agra and Jaipur and the roads between them. Lunch was halfway at the appropriately named Halfway Hotel which was a wooden style cafeteria with chairs and tables, a fridge for drinks and a cashier and toilet area. Food was more bread, though I seem to recall we had snagged some of the lunch boxes from the bus and scoffed them with a cup of instant powder coffee. There was a shop attached which was pretty grim and expensive and which we left undefiled by not buying anything. Then it was back in the car for the last stretch to Jaipur.

The day was bright and the roads were dusty from the fine orange misty grit that got churned up by the cars. Occasional massive trucks coming at you from the wrong side of the road caused occasional panic attacks, but they seemed to turn off way before any smash. And the cows - young, old, crotchety, dumb - and mostly in the middle of the road between oncoming traffic on both sides. Our driver told us the reason for this was that the cows have learned they do not get bitten by mosquitoes when they are between two way traffic. The mozzies cannot get to them because of the dust and air turmoil. Maybe the moo is not so dumb…

It was about three pm when we reached Jaipur. We seemed to have bypassed the central part and heading south. I was trying to follow a map in the guidebook that pinpointed our destination, the Jaipur Hilton. The roads were much longer than they looked on the map. Eventually we got to the hotel (which looked like a fortress of concrete and walls) and unloaded the bags through the hotel scanner and through to reception. Our driver advised that he would go get something to eat and come back later and help us "do" Jaipur by night. Swiftly through reception, got the wifi password, and up to the room to shower off the long drive. 

Pleasant enough room, though can't remember much about it now. Had a view over the back part of the town - pretty low rise as I recall. Working town.

We figured to have something to eat before Jaipur By Night so as not to have to stop somewhere that perhaps might be a bit dodgy, so we went to the bar and ordered beer and pizza and some sandwich thing and scoffed down the bar chips and pretzels. Very pleasant bar area, though service could have been better - the barman seemed to have wandered off when I needed a refill and one of his colleagues eventually came to my aid and rescue.

Our driver arrived and it was off into the urban jungle of Jaipur. Got a few stories from him on the way which were interesting at the time but now lost in their mists. He drove us to a scarf shop which was pretty poor quality and a bit overpriced compared to the friend in Delhi. We bought some T-Shirts to be sociable but not as big a spend as I think our driver had hoped. Then it was a drive through the streets where we came across a wedding - all noise and bangs and the bride on a white horse being led by the groom. We also stopped at a place to buy some Chana Chow, recommended by driver who said he was buying for his son. They proved very tasty - good fire with low salt. We bought up various types to pass as souvenir giveaways to friends back in KL. Jaipur by night is pretty dark but hugely alive with humanity and cars. Again, the intensity of it all eventually got to me and I was glad when we got back to the hotel and the silence of the TV. Sleep came quickly. 

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IWFS DELHI AGRA JAIPUR FEBRUARY MARCH 2017 - DAY FIVE

Agra Pharmacy

IWFS Delhi Agra and Jaipur Day Five - Friday 3rd March 2017 

Excursion to Fatehpur Sikri

8.30am | Casual

"After breakfast, we depart for the ancient city of Fatehpur Sikri – a city in the Agra District of Uttar Pradesh, India, founded in 1569 by the Emperor Akbar. This city, well known for the red sandstone buildings that adorn its centre, served as the capital of the Mughal Empire during 1571 to 1585."

I seem to recall a cool morning of grey and light rain and looking from the room onto a wooded area full of birds and squirrels and feeling quite pacified by it all. Think I sat with a Cafe 21 coffee (our standby instant sachet packed brought from Malaysia) and took it all in whilst Lenglui showered and did make up. Very pleasant way to greet the new day.

Packed all for the day and went to breakfast. which was pretty meagre and thin compared to previous experience. Dry toast, coffee, some grim looking eggs (I think) and other totally forgettables. I stuck with coffee and bananas and dried toast with butter and jam. Stick with the safe and the staples - didn't fancy a dose of the Delhi belly on the bus and this breakfast fare did not totally inspire confidence against such a possibility.

Toilets at Fatehpur Sikri - not unpleasant

We all piled onto the bus for a one hour ish drive to our destination for the day. The photos recall a request for an early stop at a Pharmacy by Joyless and Dippy (what a surprise…) to stock up on some apparently necessary bits. Which I thought was quite courageous - chomping down on foreign manufactured meds; bit like drinking the water to my mind and something to be avoided. I seem to recall handing Joyless a bandage for Dippy's arm from my backpack first aid kit somewhere during one of the bus trips. Don't recall a thank you. So it goes. Always look to be the bigger person. 

Inside the Fatehpur Sikri

We arrived at the Fatehpur Sikri and got dropped off near the entrance to get divvied up into smaller groups for the tours. Some of us naturally headed to the washroom, figuring it might be some time before we saw another.  I seem to remember getting told it was a huge complex in its day and we drove past the outer walls on the way back which were indeed a fair distance from the central complex. Must have been most impressive in its day. 

Well kept gardens and walkways

From Wikipedia: Fatehpur Sikri is a town in the Agra District of Uttar Pradesh, India. The city itself was founded as the capital of Mughal Empire in 1571 by Emperor Akbar, who served in this role from 1571 to 1585, after which Akbar abandoned it due to a campaign in the Punjab. It was later completely abandoned in 1610. The name of the city derives from the village called Sikri which occupied the spot before. An Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) excavation from 1999-2000 indicated that there was a habitation here before Akbar built his capital. It was also a much-loved place of Babur who called it Shukri (meaning "thanks") for its beautiful lake of water. He used it both for relaxation and for watering his armies. The khanqah of Sheikh Salim existed earlier at this place. Akbar's son Jahangir was born at the village of Sikri in 1569 at which point Akbar constructed a religious compound to commemorate the Sheikh who had predicted the birth. After Jahangir's second birthday, he began the construction of a walled city and imperial palace. The city came to be known as Fatehpur Sikri, the "City of Victory", after Akbar's victorious Gujarat campaign in 1573.

Sunshine and shade

I bought the book about the place but frankly have not yet got arsed enough to read about it. Old buildings don't quite do it for me. They are mostly about the dead and how they lived in the heat and slavery of being bounden to the Mughal or whoever was cracking the whip at the time. Good to serve as a memory of not wishing to return to such servitude, but the romance of how life was lived in the past has always left me cold. Give me life and the living! Give me what can be rather than what was! Having said this, there was some lovely stonework gone into the construction of the complex. Lots of space for living and serving and getting served. The pilgrims meandered around and took the photos and listened to the guide. I found a workers gang on the far side laying some foundation for some addition to the complex. Now THIS was probably how it was centuries ago - labouring under the sun to build something for future generations to ogle at and wonder what it is all for…

Little Piggies!!

Returning to the bus, got greeted by a dozen or so little piglets that were running quite wild and free behind the toilet section. Also a couple of obligatory dogs lolling in the shade. A final pee before back on the bus and back to the "stunning Oberoi Villas for an international themed lunch." Which felt similar to the one we had had the day before (I think - don't remember much about it). They still could not find my notebook. Bastard. 

Took some photos, some nice ones of Lenglui. Can't remember much about the food or wine - too long ago and still pissed about my missing notebook.

Buffet lunch at Oberoi Amarvilas

Lenglui at the Buffet

Yum yum!!

Red Fort/Agra Fort Tour 2.30pm | Casual

"This tour will take us to this 11th century UNESCO World Heritage site, that was once home to the Mughal Dynasty. Agra Fort is a beautiful red stone fortress which wraps around a former imperial city of Mughal rulers. Behind its walls, you will find several stunning palaces and mosques."

Red Fort. Of course.

Well, and yes, and again hot in the sun and cool in the shade. Quite an impressive walk through the gate and up the cobblestones, then along through pretty gardens into the fort complex itself. The red sandstone brick does make for an impressive mass of impassive wall against the hordes of whoever might want to throw themselves at it for conquering purposes. But apart from that, again I don't remember much about it. Maybe also getting a bit tired of all the touristing and in need of a day off to recharge. Maybe.

We took the photos and ambled around the lots of rooms where the old idle rich pleasured themselves, The one memory was seeing the Taj Mahal from a distance and seeing it surrounded by…   nothing. It rose out of the ground, a silver white temple surrounded by dark murky earth and bush. An oddly strange sight, all that wealth and prestige in the apparent middle of nowhere. 

Inside the Red Fort complex

Think someone said this was the Harem...

The Taj Mahal, oddly isolated

Visit To ‘M/S Kohinoor Jewellers’, Museum Of Zari Exclusive Panels

"We will visit ‘M/s Kohinoor Jewellers’ and the museum of Zari exclusive panels. Kohinoor Jewellers is home to the Good Shepherd, an embroidery masterpiece which took 18 years to complete."

En route back to Agra, we got unloaded at a pretty non descript doorway which led into the Koh I Noor jewellery store. Whether they are related to the famous diamond itself was not made clear, but there were some stunning visuals on display. From the website www.kohinoorjewellers.com: Launched by (Late) Mr. Brij Gopal Mathur in 1862, Kohinoor Jewellers claim to draw "inspiration from the antiquity of the Indus Valley civilization or the great Himalayan mountain range and is also a truly global collection with influences of impressionism and modern art."

Inside the Kohinoor showroom

Entrance to Oberoi Amarvilas

The flagship 3-storey store of Kohinoor Jewellers in Agra "is not just an experiential store but also a museum. Exhibiting an alluring selection of needle and thread, three-dimensional handcrafted embroidery and precious artifacts that are passionately preserved and showcased to connoisseurs from all over the world. The Kohinoor Museum in an extravaganza of art with sound and light presentation and is a must-see for all those with an eye for tasteful art and heritage." 

The museum was some wonderful theatre and showcased some seriously stunning embroidery pieces. Peacocks, sheep with Jesus, and a huge Taj Mahal were unveiled from behind a glass partition in a darkened viewing room. Photos don't do it justice. 

We got a private viewing of some of the apparently more famous works before being shuttled back to the showroom for a final attempt to get sold on some bling and then back on the bus for return to the hotel and a get dressed for dinner. Certainly well worth a stop if en route from Delhi to Agra - just make sure to keep the ladies away from the bling. Though Lenglui was surprisingly restrained on this blingfest and bought nothing. I asked if she was feeling all right and she morosely said "nothing to buy…" 

Entrance to Oberoi Amarvilas

Between here and dinner, my memory got burned with an image beyond description. I was chatting with one of the fellow pilgrims en route back to the room when one of the doors opened and I got a sight of Joyless dressed in nothing more than some purple sheer wrap around her mid section that barely covered the sagging chest and belly and asking what time was the dinner tonight. And looking like she had come directly out of the shower to find out. Lord, I can see it still - a face once fair but now ragged and ravaged by time, baggy eyes shining with the dim fire of lost purpose and growing dementia - clearly had forgotten that I was the focal point of her ire the previous day. And the shapeless purple mass - a dead spit for Ursula from The Little Mermaid. I think I said Yes to her question and the door closed with what I surmise was a smile. Me and the pilgrim looked at each other, in disbelief and shock at what had just transpired. "Did we just see that?" I asked. He nodded. In some strange grim silence we walked on down the hall to our separate doors, knowing that somehow we would be forever connected by this… it is beyond a name. Scarred am I, as is he. 

Jag getting turbanned

Dinner at The Oberoi Amarvilas

7.00pm | Smart Casual (Return to hotel by 10.30pm)

"With stunning views of the Taj Mahal, and being one of the best hotels in India and the world, we return to the Oberoi Amarvilas for another stunning dinner, but this time the menu will feature coastal Indian cuisine."

At dinner we found that our friend had sorted out his overstaying and was happy and grateful for the support he had received from our hosts and organisers. Still true - it isn't what you know, is always who. A delightful walk through the stonework of the Oberoi to our Champagne reception and more small talk whilst sipping the fizz in the darkling night.  

Dinner found us sat on the same table and with the same people as I recall - so it goes, but usually I understand it is normal to mix it up a bit. Maybe just got overlooked. Either that or I have pissed off someone senior somewhere along the way. So it goes. Supposedly Coastal cuisine, it was more curry and breads and all very tasty. Though I cannot distinguish any of the individual dishes, except that those with yoghurt were smoother and creamier. Naturally. The endless Garlic Naan to soak up the curry was delightful. The wines all pleasant and plentiful, though again the reds a bit too powerful for the curries. I recall seeing a number of half to three quarter full bottles of the delightfully full bodied St Francis Zinfandel remaining near the table and figuring to souvenir a couple for Jaipur. Also as a memory of Lenglul and I having visited this vineyard circa 2004. Waste not, want not. It would prove a tasty addition to the room service we would order in the Jaipur Hilton. There were more Turban opportunities, which I declined on this occasion - they do cause headaches and the booze does enough of this on its own without any help from anything way too tightly wound around the skull. 

Rajiv Kehr getting a gong from Yvonne, Hotel Manager looking hopeful for similar...

And that was it. Rajiv got gonged by Yvonne for his organising of the Festival, a couple of speeches followed, more chit chat around the table and then pile back on the bus and back to our hotel. I do recall singing "What A Wonderful World" on the bus back to our hotel and getting warm praise from everyone. Joyless made a particular point to commend my "luvley voice you 'ave" - I just smiled Sphinx like through it all. On arrival, there was a beautiful red Mustang parked outside the reception which got new friend Richard and me off on a chorus of Mustang Sally (he remembered it from the movie The Commitments [he is of Irish descent] whilst I knew it from earlier Wilson Pickett) and got a couple of photos. Back to the room, packed the souvenired bottles into the wine bags for the journey on the morrow and fell into bed. Good night.

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Chefs and Dessert

The Wines and Sommeliers

Mustang Sally, dunka dunka doombahb...dunka dunka doombahb...

Take me to Delhi...

IWFS DELHI AGRA JAIPUR FEBRUARY MARCH 2017 - DAY FOUR

Lenglui and Oberoi Jumbo

IWFS Delhi Agra Jaipur Day Four - Thursday 2nd March 2017

Depart Hotel Leela Gurgaon for Agra

8.45am (Meet for coach in hotel lobby at 8.30am) | Casual on the bus as we sit back, relax and enjoy the scenery.

Lunch and Visit Taj Mahal

Seem to recall a bit of a grey morning for this one and rain. Did the usual cases down and into breakfast about forty minutes ahead of the off, which gives us time to scarf down some yoghurt and fruit and some chapati with dhall and coffee. This invariably stimulates the necessary allowing sufficient business before checking that the luggage had been stowed and clambering on the bus. Lenglui had secured seats halfway along and slept most of the way whilst I made my ultimately to disappear notes in an exercise book specially bought and brought for the task. 

The scenery was a pretty flat and dusty green vista punctuated by dusty and grimy roadside towns that were a mix of dilapidated and newly constructed…  garages, basically, from which small businesses seemed to operate. Lots of cows, both on the sides and in the middle of the main roads.  Lots of big trucks driving up and down both sides of the large roads (and sometimes against oncoming traffic). Thinking back, not many buses…  but loads of cars and bikes. And all honking. Of course. Not much lush greenery. Didn't see much in the way of irrigation either, though got told somewhere that there are two crop seasons, one for rice and one for vegetables. But it looks a hard existence. Grinding poverty and little in the way of escape.

Back Left from Oberoi Verandah

There was a stop on the way and a scurried run under the portable umbrella to the hut which housed two long shops and a small toilet. There did not seem to have been many of these on the road, so the assumption is that they are few and far between. We were given twenty minutes to do our business which meant time for a bit of a shop. Though the prices felt stiff - saris and other cloth products at quite large prices. Though ti did not seem to deter the serial shoppers who were happy to be in an environment where they could spend. Had not been much opportunity on this trip (outside of the Mall that was part of the Leela Gurgaeon complex) so the chance for an urge to splurge could not be passed up. But not for me - the things were a bit grotty and not well made. Even the fridge magnets were grim and megapriced. And seems they were not prepared to bargain. Sorry friend - happy to buy but not to overpay. 

Back Right from Oberoi Verandah

Back on the bus and ready for the last charge into Agra. Many on the bus seemed to sleep, though there was the occasional buzz of quiet conversation. Lenglui slept through the ride - I made occasional notes and stared out the window at the brightening skies and counted down the miles to Agra. 

I wasn't sure what I was expecting out of this visit. Never had a great desire to "do" the Taj Mahal, and didn't know enough about it to want to find out more. But here it was, coming up at sometime down the road. As we got into Agra surroundings, the signs indicating roads and distances to hotels seemed to grow in number. Equally, the road seemed to get narrower until it was effectively a one lane track along which bicycle rickshaws and twelve seater golf buggy style transports were waiting for custom. There were some coach park up places, but most of the traffic were these electric buggies. We found ourselves suddenly turning and gently trying to maneouvre through a hugely narrow gate which ultimately proved unsuccessful due to other buses being improperly parked. We got off and in blazing sunshine strolled up the pathway that led into the Oberoi Amarvilas, the location for our lunch and dinner both for today and for the morrow. 

View of the Taj from Oberoi Verandah

1.30pm Arrive for lunch 

The plan was to do lunch first, then get some buggies to transport us to Taj Mahal, then some buggies back to the Oberoi where the bus would pick us up to take us to check in to the Jaypee Palace Hotel where we would sleep for two nights. with any luck out luggage would be in in our rooms by the time we got there. 

The Oberoi was unashamed luxury. White and brown marble everywhere, and boasting an amazing view of the Taj Mahal at the back. Snapped a few photos on the balcony before heading to our buffet lunch which was downstairs in a large airy room with lots of four and six seater tables and heavy chairs. Again, the curries and sauces were excellent as were the breads that went with them. I remember some fizz and some white and making notes. 

Yvonne, Arun and Oberoi F&B Manager

Hello Chef! Namaste!!

Buffet Spread

East meets West - Penne with Tomato sauce, Biryani Rice with Cashews, salad and yoghurt. Yum.

More West meets East - Italian salami, Garlic Naan, Korma curry rice and Madras Chicken. Double yum.

3.00pm Lunch finishes and leave for sightseeing of Taj Mahal 

"After a gorgeous, well-earned lunch, we will head to the truly magnificent Taj Mahal, one the of the New 7 Wonders of the World and declared as an UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1983 for being "the jewel of Muslim art in India and one of the universally admired masterpieces of the world's heritage".

Julia and friend off to the Taj

After lunch we boarded the buggies and threaded our ways past people and more buggies and got off near an entrance. We had been previously advised not to carry bags since these would be securitised and getting them back after the tour would be troublesome. So I had just brought the camera and some water, having left everything else in a room at the hotel for later retrieval. We also were parcelled into groups by which we would be shuttled through the iron turnstiles and scrutinised for any bags that the eager security mean could pounce on. Through the gate, along a garden path, through an arch tower and there it was - Taj Mahal, sparkling smoky grey white in the sunshine. We've all seen pictures of it, but to see it in full glory with a full blue sky background this close in the heat with all the people - it's different. It sparkles. It shines. It breathes. It feels there is a life and a soul to the building and the gardens. And there is a peace about the place, notwithstanding the hundreds and hundreds of people milling around the gardens and pathways toward the main mausoleum. And joy of joys, no cows. Or dogs. 

En route to the Taj

We had been allocated a guide, and they do give out much useful information - but nothing ever gets retained by me. Some little bits filter through and stick, but it's always too hot and there's always another photo opp and…  snuzz. I do remember that the Taj is basically a gravesite for husband and wife who are still buried there thirty meters below the floor in the main building. Wikipedia notes: "The Taj Mahal (meaning Crown of the Palace) is an ivory-white marble mausoleum on the south bank of the Yamuna river in the Indian city of Agra. It was commissioned in 1632 by the Mughal emperor, Shah Jahan (reigned from 1628 to 1658), to house the tomb of his favourite wife, Mumtaz Mahal. The tomb is the centrepiece of a 17-hectare complex, which includes a mosque and a guest house, and is set in formal gardens bounded on three sides by a crenellated wall.

Gateway to the Taj Mahal

Some more: "Construction of the mausoleum was essentially completed in 1643 but work continued on other phases of the project for another 10 years. The Taj Mahal complex is believed to have been completed in its entirety in 1653 at a cost estimated at the time to be around 32 million rupees (in 2015 values, approximately 52.8 billion rupees [U.S. $827 million]). The construction project employed some 20,000 artisans under the guidance of a board of architects led by the court architect to the emperor, Ustad Ahmad Lahauri."

Our Guide describing Taj history

And more: "The Taj Mahal was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1983 for being "the jewel of Muslim art in India and one of the universally admired masterpieces of the world's heritage". It is regarded by many as the best example of Mughal architecture and a symbol of India's rich history. The Taj Mahal attracts 7–8 million visitors a year. In 2007, it was declared a winner of the New 7 Wonders of the World (2000–2007) initiative." [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Taj_Mahal]

The Money Shot - Lenglui and the Taj Mahal

Someone along the way noted that US President Bill Clinton makes it easier; he is alleged to have said "The World is divided into those who have seen the Taj Mahal and those who have not." And I and Lenglui and all of us on the IWFS Tour of Delhi and Agra now land ourselves in the former, with our Princess Diana seat official photo to prove it. And I feel happy to have been there, which I never expected. I thought, shoot, it's just a building. But it's not. It's much, much more. Unbelievably more. It captures a piece of you, which is irretrievably and unexplainably Taj Mahal. Total moment. Must do, once in a lifetime. 

Taj Mahal

We ambled around the paths, did the Mausoleum, went up and through one of the minarets, braved the toilet, and wound our way back to the buggies and the hotel to retrieve our bags. It was here that I found that somehow my notebook was missing. I went back to the lunch room to see if it was there - no. Asked at reception if it had been handed in - no. Shit. Three days of notes disappeared. Some menus as well, including the lunch. Bollocks. Ah well… it was gone, nothing more could be done. Oberoi staff ate my homework - sounds plausible? Not really...  still pissed at losing it…

Goodbye Taj Mahal

4.30pm Depart Taj Mahal for hotel

Check In to Jaypee Palace Hotel

5.00pm Arrive at Jaypee Palace Hotel for check in 

We got to the hotel and indeed the bags were in the room. Though the room did take a bit of finding. The Jaypee is a huge multileveled maze of corridors and lifts and often only one path to get to a destination. The room when we got it was a delight, with the back door window opening out on to a balcony with a delightful woodland area of grass, trees, squirrels and birds. Made for a lovely coffee opportunity in the slightly chill morning air. 

Our travels have taught us to pack our wearables and toiletries in one case and leave the others locked - it makes for swifter packing and unpacking and we can be showered, shaved, dressed and ready within the hour for an evening on the town. Which we needed to be for this one due to a bit of overstay at the Taj and delayed leaving of the Oberoi. I presume there was a reason why we all did not stay at the Oberoi; it certainly would have made sense given that all our meals would take place there. But none have been forthcoming. Perhaps it was as simple as there being no rooms available. Anyhow, we mazed our way back to reception to board the bus for the twenty minute shuttle to our dinner. 

Inside the Oberoi Ballroom

Dinner at Oberoi Amarvilas | Smart Casual

7.00pm Depart Jaypee Palace Hotel 

"Tonight’s dinner will be held at the most exclusive hotel in Agra and one of the top 100 Hotels and Resorts in the World as voted by readers of Conde Nast Traveller. We will be cooked a delicious Awadh and Banaras menu served with some special wines."

It was here that we heard that the friend I spoke about in the pre-flight section found that he had overstayed his visa and as a result the hotel could not check him in. The story was he had been driven back to Delhi to stay at the organiser's house with a view to seek to sort the visa in the morning and coming back to the Jaypee on the morrow. Must have been darn scary, but given the obfuscation evident in the Online Visa application process, hardly surprising. Hugely inconvenient, though, having to drive all the way back to Delhi and then back to Agra. Probably sleepless as well, worrying about whether all would be well. Felt really sorry for the guy. 

Disembarking at the grand entrance, we were piped in past the candle lit pond with the roaring of trumpets that sounded like a herd of elephants looking to gatecrash the party. I have half a memory of a bindi being thumbed on my forehead, but that might have been a different meal. Fizz got plonked in our sweaty hands which we sipped hungrily in the warm evening air until we got speeched and directed to our tables. This direction would take us past our treat for the evening - some near authentic Agra street food; the real deal as to what you could get on the streets, but I guess without the street. Well, and maybe - not entirely sure that street hawkers wear white chef hats. But the food was indeed darn tasty. And though the absence of street might take some of the shine off the experience, so be it. 

Oberoi Desserts

On getting to our allotted seating of six to a table, we sat to take in the Grand Hall, decked out with ornate paintings and table seatings. There was also an assortment of the usual breads and curries inside. Someone called things to order and advised which bowls we should not miss and we were off. 

Inside the Oberoi Ballroom

One year down the road, can't remember much about the dinner nor the ride back to the hotel. The photos don't jog too many memories. Think there was a cultural dance somewhere, and half a memory of toddling back and forth to get the street food and refills of fizz. 

Debris. Very pleasant was the process of creating this...

I do remember the organiser and hotel manager naming the unmissable dishes which first movers naturally made a beeline for. Fears of missing out were swiftly abated as refills made their ways to the large silver bowls. I got a haruumph against my sly attempt to queue jump one of the unmissables. Fair enough. Have to say the food was very good - less fierce in fire than what we are used to here in Kuala Lumpur, but full of vim and vigour in spice terms. The mixes had great distinct tastes and the occasional mixes that resulted on the plate were (by me) eagerly sopped up with the relentless supply of garlic naan bread. The wines were good enough, though the reds were not really matches to the food - full and bold with young tannins tend to supercharge the fire in curry sauces. Though I seem to recall the St Francis Zinfandel as being somewhat softer and easier on the palate than the leaner Kendall Jackson Pinot and the austere Marchesi Barolo. 

The Oberoi Amarvilas Agra India

Street Food chef cooking, er, street food...

Main Course

Meat and Seafood Selection

Mahli Kaliya

Lucknow style fish curry in a tamarind and cashewnut curry with mustard oil

Dum ke jhinge

Prawns cooked in a yoghurt and saffron gravy, smoked in sealed pots

Achari murgh korma

Chicken cooked in a pickle spice curry

Awadhi gosht biryani

Lamb and basmati ricecooked in sealed pots

Vegetarian Selection

Lauki mussallam

Whole bottle gourd cooked with almond milk and brown onions

Paratdaar paneer pasande

Triple layerd cottage cheese in a peppered tomato and fenugreek curry

Rattan manjusha

Spinach and mushroom koftas in a rich aromatic yoghurt and tomato gravy

Benarsi dum aloo

Baby potatoes simmered with yoghurt and chilli

Lehsooni motiya palak

Corn kernels braised with roast garlic and spinach

Dhuli urad ki daal "Dum Pokth"

White lentils simmered with brown onions, cardamom and yoghurt

Subz zafrani biryani

Selection of Tea/Coffee

The Wines

G. H. Mumm, Cordon, NV

Reims, Champagne

Chateau St Michelle 2013

Chardonnay, Columbia Valley, USA

Bourgeois Sancerre Blanc, Les Baronnes 2015

Sauvignon Blanc, Loire Valley, France

Kendall Jackson 2014

Pinot Noir, Sonoma County, USA

Zinfandel, St Francis, 2012

Sonoma County, USA

Marchesi di Barolo, DOCG 2009

Piedmont, Italy

10.30pm Return to Jaypee Palace Hotel

Don't remember much of this. Seem to remember getting lost in the maze that was the Jaypee Hotel - take a wrong turn and a wrong lift and you are screwed. Eventually got there and crashed for a pretty solid six hours. 

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