IWFS Auckland Festival March 8th to 10th 2019 - Day Two

International Wine and Food Society Asia Pacific

Auckland Festival March 8th to 10th 2019

A recollection and remembrance of eats, drinks, sights, sounds, and people from across the event. Organised by IWFS New Zealand, it brought members from all across the world to enjoy the food and wines of the country. 

Saturday 9th March 2019 - Day Two

AUCKLAND CITY TOUR

LUNCH AT GIRAFFE, VIADUCT HARBOUR 

GALA DINNER, STAMFORD PLAZA HOTEL 

AUCKLAND CITY TOUR

I half remember a fuzzy and late breakfast before joining everyone gathering at the hotel entrance to board the bus for a tour around the city. The weather looked as if it had finally turned against us, with grey skies and rain in the air. I recall a couple of random "Good Mornings" with the pilgrims, though I hung around in the background more than anything - me and mornings after are not normally happy playfellows. 

There would be two buses taking us around the city. The first already had a queue lined up to board so I headed for the second. We were soon all present and apparently axcounted for and ready for the off. 

The bus driver was an intense grey haired and wiry lady of at least sixty and probably near seventy, with a wry and dryish sense of humour. She was also the commentator for the tour, though much of the commentary seemed to be her observations on the traffic or the weather or random thoughts on New Zealand life and the people who lived in her part of town. Which was quite entertaining, though perhaps a shade less informative than some might prefer. Seems we were originally going to do the famous view from Mount Eden, but got told by the driver that the rain and clouds had put the mockers on that idea. We were instead taken on a quick round of the town centre area before heading out to Newhaven (recognising the Sails where we had our dinner the night before) and going across some large bridge type structure before coming back in to again cross the city and into the Mission Bay area for stop on a hilltop overlooking a stretch of sea. The map suggests this to have been the M J Savage Memorial Park because there was a, er, Memorial there. There was also a toilet which got some immediate use. Getting off the bus, the pilgrims splintered off into their various couples or foursomes or singles and wandered about the pathways. It had already started to spit rain as we got off the bus and it increased in spittage as the grey clouds rolled in and the rain started coming in with a serious windy vengeance. Those with umbrellas continued on a short walkabout whilst those not so well equipped grimly hung out in a canteen on the hill to shelter and wait for the bus doors to open. 

The rain kept in for the rest of the morning and put the total kibosh on any decent photos of the City Tour. Om. Our driver told us that the main destination in Mission Bay is a place called Kelly Tarlton's Sea Life. This is a favoured destination of families keen to look at the fish and (according to the brochure) actually swim with sharks. It was clearly popular given the scarcity of parking space there for the many cars looking to muscle their ways in. There you go. 

We passed a number of seaside style bars and restaurants all looking a bit forlorn in the rain before the bus took us around the "rich" area of expensive properties and homes to ogle at the opulence and manicured front areas. In my experience, quite a few of the city tours do this, and I am never quite sure why. I guess it must be some projection style fantasy of living such a gifted lifestyle that is beyond most of us in this lifetime. Wealth beyond imagination. Or maybe it is my lack of imagination is the problem...  I thought I noted a tinge of envy in our driver's commentary. Lucky rich b******

The bus then headed back to the city via one of the highlights of the morning for me - passing through the Auckland Domain area around the Hospital and Auckland War Memorial Museum. This was a delightful area of greenery and walks and would clearly make for a splendid couple of hours wandering through this parkland. One of the guidebooks talked about a walk that could be followed which takes in the Auckland Art Gallery. I made a mental plan to do this on my spare day before my flight out of Auckland (though it would not eventually come to pass - see later scribbles). We then drove through a very pretty section of town called Parnell, chock full of roadside stores, before coming back into familiar territory of Auckland Centre. We then drove along one of the Jetties to turn back around and get us nearish to our lunch destination. Apparently. After we got off the bus we ended up walking back up along the jetty we had driven down. Someone had a Google Map and most of us followed. Naturally we overshot. I veered off and found a friendly restaurant that turned a blind eye to my stealing a pee in the toilet. On coming back out, the clouds had again burst and unleashed a drenching torrent of rain on the wharves and anyone stranded thereon. I was saved by my portabrolly and packaway raincoat and wandered back along the wet and slippery wharf. I spotted a familiar face sheltering in a restaurant entrance who told me the lunch venue was a bit further along and could I give him a brolly lift. Which I did. And got a pretty good soaking in the process - lesson here is never share a portable brolly with a six foot Italian Australian man. 

The Giraffe at the, er, Giraffe

LUNCH AT GIRAFFE, VIADUCT HARBOUR 

Our IWFS blurb said that "After our tour, we’ll be lunching at Giraffe, Simon Gault’s restaurant where he presents an eclectic variety of dishes using both traditional and molecular techniques. Following lunch, for those not involved in the Presidents’ Round Table, there will be an opportunity to either take a cruise under sail on the harbour on board the sailing scow Ted Ashby for one hour or visit the Sky Summit Tower." I had originally opted to go sailing but got pressganged into attending the Round Table - see later. 

The Giraffe is a relative newcomer to the Viaduct Harbour section of Auckland. Helmed by NZ Food Celebrity Simon Gault, Giraffe is "a celebration of everything that makes New Zealand great. Home grown, showcasing the finest local producers and growers our country has to offer (yet) mature enough to recognise that occasionally the very best ingredients are from further afield."

Giraffe IWFS Menu and the starters

Giraffe looks to capture a "spirit of innovation" in its preparation and presentation of delicious dishes, and is "uncompromising in our promise to surprise and delight every time." It also looks to engender a spirit of sharing - dishes and knowledge - with an aim to "capture the essence of friendship and conviviality" and "share in the same narrative of quality, pride and passion for the end-result. At Giraffe, we’re all about personal connections."

So, as said I was a bit bedraggled and dripping as we entered the restaurant where my hitchhiker grabbed a couple of large gamps to retrieve the remaining refugees. We were greeted by this huge fluffy giraffe in the bar area, clearly the mascot of the place and presumably waiting for selfies - some of us were not quite in the mood. Well, one of us wasn't…    To add to this damp picture of misery, most of the plum seating had been taken by the earlier arrivees and the tardy and bedraggled had to wetly plonk ourselves down wherever we could. Not the best form of introduction to the assembled. I found myself again next to Dr Jag and Malkit and opposite Richard and Pam Hinds from Washington in the USA. I divested my anorak and wiped myself down with the pocket bandanna whilst some kind soul took the wet brolly and parked it with other wet brollies. 

Jaya from IWFS Kuala Lumpur and Richard from IWFS Washington USA

The Giraffe is bright and light and airy, with large glass window doors at one end and the open kitchen at the other. Seating is long stretches of tables along with a bar stool area in front of the service doors. Nice breezy feel about the place and the young keen staff. Who quickly poured an introductory glass and started piling food on the tables. 

The Whitebait Rolls

I have no note on the Smoked Kawahai ((NZ term for Australian Salmon) Pate, though I do remember wolfing it down on the excellent though darkly black bread. Though I don't remember much in the way of fish flakes like the photos on Google suggest it should be. My photo of the Giraffe version shows it to be green and avocado like. And the Giraffe breakfast menu shows Avocado on sourdough toast. So perhaps there was a late replacement. So it goes. No one seemed to notice and happily wolfed away. Chunky gunky and salting the tongue and mouth with good healthy infused ooze. Yum.

My note on the Pork Belly wafer is "wicked". It was a bacon pork roll with some creamy goat cheese and wrapped in a leaf. Brilliant combo that ticked all the boxes of this closet Chinaman and total sucker for anything pig. It was excellent. Though I somehow missed getting a photo - clearly too busy hoovering these bad boys down…

Ambience at the Giraffe

I have a note on some Ceviche which is not on the menu - perhaps a late addition. It was very good. I particularly liked the mashed pepper which gave piquant fire and bite to the fish (which tasted of Snapper but could have been pretty much anything). There was also a tongue stabbing Ginger bite in the sauce and a dollop of parsley made for a peppery pop. 

The unexpected Ceviche

My notes say the Whitebait was a bit soggy, though the excellent bread and the yuzu mayo made it all a delightful chew with a zesty bite.

Nautilus Albarinho - yum

For the first part of the lunch we were drinking the Nautilus Albarinho which was lovely. Lightly crisp and floral and the smoothest of finishes, it slipped through the system like a harbour yacht in a summer breeze to be first across the Americas Cup line. Most excellent, and very versatile in matching nicely with all of the starting dishes. Will definitely look to buy this one in Malaysia if we see it. 

The second part saw a Rose getting poured which on first blush felt a bit okay only but proved a deceptive beast when I found myself feeling quite smashed half way through the lamb. With which, it needs to be said, the Rose was not a brilliant match. The cutting acidity and nice fruity balance made it more of a chugging party wine rather than a reflective sip to help the meat go down. So it goes. Or went. 

The excellent lamb - double yum

Myself and some of the others on the table observed that the wine was feeling a bit thin in the pourings. The IWFS Pilgrims are a thirsty bunch at the best of times and today the refills felt a shade tardy and parsimonious. The staff were clearly in awe of the Bottle Meister ladies and could only relay our requests to these Guardians of the Booze who seemed to be holding on to the precious bottles against the barbarian hordes. Or at least the barbarian horde singular that was me. There you go - I guess they were under instruction somewhere up the line to ration so that the guzzlers did not suck it all down before others got a first taste. Fair enough. Though I seem to recall someone on our table buying a bottle to stave off the drought. Very necessary. During the lunch, new friend Richard starting talking about wines made in Virginia which was quite instructive - I never realised grapes grew in that part of the USA. He praised them highly - I will have to look for them when next in the United States. 

The lamb was excellent. Coming out in two-rib cutlets, you could slice it down the middle with a genteel knife and fork or grab it by the bone and bite through viking style. Totally wicked either way. Perhaps a shade rare, but hugely tender and full of succulent taste and firm bite and chew. Memorable. 

The brilliant Pavlova

The Pavlova was equally excellent. The freshest, lightest creamiest cream, sweet crunchy biscuit, superb fruits. It was wicked good creamy delicious and totally more-ish. Both this and the Lamb are definitely worth a return for. 

Chef/Owner Simon Gault showing off his cheese...

I managed to squeeze in a quick chat with the hugely affable owner and Executive Chef Simon Gault before he came out to introduce the cheese. The Giraffe website says Simon "continues to be at the forefront of New Zealand's innovative restaurant and dining scene. His ability to capture the culinary zeitgeist and personalise it with his own unique twist, captivates tastebuds and the imagination." I couldn't seem to find too much detail on Simon's background, save that he did a stint on MasterChef NZ, has written a number of cookbooks and seemingly endorsed a range of products in supermarkets across the land (NB shoutout to the nationwide Countdown supermarket chain, my source of bread, ham and cheese for the various bus and boat rides across the nation). 

In our chat, Simon confirmed that all the food was farm to plate and made to traditional New Zealand style preparations. His passion for the result was evident and infectious. Quick to smile and generous with his time, Simon is a massively easy chap to like. 

Say cheese? No, EAT cheese!!

The cheese had apparently been flown in from Nelson in the South Island that morning. It was an 11 month mature Sheep cheese with a white vein and figured it for a perfect ending to the lunch. And so it would prove - a good easy bite with a slight smoky mouthfeel. All in all, an easy breezy but filling lunch with excellent dishes throughout. Very happy to go back to the Giraffe any time. 

Giraffe Restaurant

85–87 Customs Street West
Viaduct Harbour
Auckland, New Zealand

+64 9 358 1093
email info@girafferestaurant.co.nz

www.girafferestaurant.co.nz

Breakfast

Monday–Friday 7am till 11:30am

Saturday–Sunday 8am till 11:30am

(Kitchen closed 11:30am-12pm)

Lunch

Monday–Sunday 12pm till 4pm

Dinner

Monday–Sunday 6pm till 10:30pm

IWFS Menu

For The Table

Smoked Kawahai Pate - Ciabatta and Crudites

For The Palate

Crispy Pork Belly Wafer - Devilled Date

West Coast Whitebait - Bread Roll, Yuzu Mayo

Trevally Crudo - Sour Plum, Ginger, Marinated Shiitake

The Giraffe Way

Lamb Rack - Kumara, Mint Sauce, Sheep's Milk Yoghurt

A Light And Fruitful Finish

Pavlova - Whipped Coconut Cream, Kiwi Frut, Passionfruit, Berry Compote

Finale

New Zealand Cheese Selection

Table friends Philip and Christine Clark IWFS Devonshire

The ever smiling Lydia from IWFS Western Australia

Our Lady of the Wines. And Food.

PRESIDENT'S ROUND TABLE

By the time lunch had finished, the sun had put its hat back on and was beaming brilliantly on the now sated pilgrims. It had been somewhere decided that, rather than make the bus wait and pick us up for a fifeen minute drive, a gentle ten minute stroll from the Giraffe across the road and up along Albert Street might be a better option. And so it proved - nothing like a short wander to walk off some of the lunch. A range of tour options had been scheduled for the pilgrims, whilst an informal meeting was in store for the various IWFS Branch Presidents to discuss upcoming events and basically keep each other on the same pages as to general APZ matters. I had shoehorned myself into this meeting on the possibility I would be handling APZ Newsletters in the future and thus needed to be in the know. This possibility quickly became an assertion as the meeting got underway. Most of the discussion concerned new Website, upcoming Festivals and getting new branches up and running. It was a good insight into how the IWFS meetings run - little different from most other meetings across the globe...

GALA DINNER, STAMFORD PLAZA HOTEL

Getting back to the room after the roundtable at about 4.45pm, I opted for a quick nap whilst Mossie fiddled with things Internet. Around about 6pm I figured to start to get ready for dinner so as to get out ahead of Mossie's way. Shower, shave and on with the Tuxedo, Black Tie and Medallion and down to the Ballroom where the fizz had already started popping and the handphones were gaily snapping anyone who was happy to be snapped. I always seem to get variable results on the Samsung phone so usually opt for the old and battered Sony DSC-P72, which celebrates its 15th year of photographic service this year. For some reason, the photo quality is good, the colours are vibrant, and with the food dishes I normally get a result. Excellent lens - don't make them like this any more.

IWFS KL Dr Jagjit Singh with IWFS WA Gloria Kunzmann

I think I have said elsewhere that I am not massively comfortable with the early evening schmoozing; I need a couple of sherbets to loosen up and get in the flow. The brain somehow does not fire on all six without some joyjuice in the system. Just can't seem to keep the conversation flowing in this early schmooze…  

Happy IWFS people at Lucky Table 8

The fizz should have been good - Deutz as I recall - but for some reason it was not as I'd had elsewhere. This one felt…  a bit metallic and thin. A lot of cream in the mouth and not really pleasant. I thought it might be the glass, but a refill in a fresh glass felt the same. Perhaps I was still hung over from lunch and not really in the mood to get fizzed up. But certainly not a patch on the Quartz Reef we had the previous night at the Sails. I parked my glass somewhere and snuck into the Ballroom to get some pre dinner snaps and scout out the tables and park the notebook. I then snuck back out and hid in the bathroom for ten minutes, more to avoid having to schmooze and drink the fizz than anything. Antisocial? Maybe…  possibly just painfully shy without a belt of the booze. Think my dad was the same…

Light entertainment

I emerged just in time to be one of the last through the door and plonked myself in my appointed seat. I would be sitting with Sunny and Boots from the Philippines, Michael and Grace from Perth and Rajan and Stephanie from KL. Good company all round. Couple of early speeches and then it was heads down into the food.

The starter chicken seemed to have a lot of salt to my tongue and I think I left it as a result. The rest of the dish was fine - tomato was crisp and crunchy whilst the orange and avocado combo worked strangely well together with its citrus tang and creamy gunk. The watercress lent a good vegetal bite and the ensemble fit together nicely. 

It was being paired with a 2018 Pinot Gris which was frisky, with large gooseberry and fresh grass on the nose. I got peach and apricot with some spice and a pepper note in the mouth, and a cool clean finish with fair length. 

IWFS Hong Kong President Karen Leung receiving the
Hong Kong Charter from APZ President Yvonne Wallis

Matchwise, it didn't quite work for me. The chicken texture pretty much neutralised the fruit and lightness of the PG whilst the salt just made you want to drink more. Which we did. It was a lovely wine to drink, and drink it our table did - many refills were requested and answered. 

At this point there were more speeches and a presentation of medallions of various calibre. Pretty much the whole delegation from Kuala Lumpur got the White Medal of Commendation (including your scribe - ahem) whilst Kuala Lumpur's Dr Rajan and Victoria's Amber Dowling got an Andre Simon Bronze each. We all had two medallions around our necks and they were constantly clinking each other for the rest of the night - no one told us we could take the old one off…   We also got some detail of a superbranch being formed in Hong Kong along with an AGM Festival to be held there around October 2020. Hong Kong's President Karen Leung received the Charter from IWFS APZ President and Global Ambassador Yvonne Wallis. 

The Chicken entree

Then it was back to the food. The Artichoke was okay, but more texture than anything else. It certainly needed the nuts and herbs to bring some oomph to the dish. Some of what appeared to be olive oil and the lemon helped give the thing some sass, though I could not find much in the way of manuka honey. The Nautilus Sauvignon Blanc with which it was being paired again did not work for me. I felt the dish fired up the wine's already firm acidity whilst the lemon pretty much cooked what little there was of the wine's fruit. Compared with the Nautilus Albarinho we had had at our lunch earler, this was a poor relation - somehow ordinary and lacking finesse when compared. We were still asking for and getting the Pinot Gris which seemed to get better through the night and down the glass and without the need for food. Would make for a very good aperitif. 

The Grilled Artichoke

The Merlot came out ahead of the food. Surprisingly full bodied, young, black pepper and smoke on the nose, tree bark, forest fruit and chewy boysenberry. Fair finish, quite a silky mouthfeel. But with a slight leaning toward firm in the balance.

The Beef Short Rib

I am starting think that Chef has a heavy hand with the salt shaker because it was all over the beef ribs dish like a rash. In the vegetables, in the jus, in the beef itself - massive salt attack. I managed to scrape some of the outside jus off the ribs to reveal a rib of great tenderness, texture and taste. In this regard, it was excellent, perfectly cooked, melt in the mouth meat. I just could not eat the outside - total gaaaaaack…  I recognise my tolerance for salt is low and no-one on the table made much mention of it. But a few post dinner conversations suggested I was not alone in my concern at the levels of salt. And you can't really send it back - well, not in a hotel anyway - you just have to leave it and hope that chef and maitre 'd get the message when the staff bring all the full plates back to the bin. 

IWFS KL Brian McIntyre receiving the White Medal of Commendation
with IWFS KL President May Peng and APZ Chairman James Lin

I have no note on the match with the wine. Looking back, I don't recall the Merlot being particularly spectacular; whatever, the salt would have killed it. I recall we called for more, though I also seem to recall leaving it in the glass and sticking with the Pinot Gris. I am not a great Merlot fan at the best of times, so I will defer any judgement to others. 

IWFS KL Dr Rajan receiving the Andre Simon Bronze
with IWFS President Yvonne Wallis and
IWFS APZ Chairman James Lin

The Cheese and Petits Fours came out together on a kind of High Tea plate. It all got eaten so I guess it was good. Though I do recall scarfing much of it. Perhaps I needed carbo after the salt assault of the previous dishes. The two dessert wines accompanying were hugely different in tastes and textures. The Brancott is a Late Harvest Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc where (according to the website) "apricot, orange peel and honey aromas abound. Tropical fruit and fresh herbal notes are underpinned by a rich and complex palate with good length and finish." It drank very nicely, and indeed went strangely well with the cheese given its Sauvignon Blanc content. Quite a light dessert wine, if there is such a thing. Not entirely sure it works, but kudos to Brancott for giving it a go. 

The Marzemino I found to be a bit…   weird. Hailing from Italy's Trentino/Alto Adige region, Marzemino is a varietal rarely found elsewhere in the world. But it grows in Hawke’s Bay, where (according to the Church Road website) the varietal "produces deeply coloured, plummy red wines with supple tannins and fragrant floral notes accompanied by a rustic, savoury element lending the wine a distinctly Italian feel that works so well with food. Deep colour, with sweet plum and berry fruit, floral aromas and cardamom notes. Rustic and earthy, the palate is medium bodied with a gentle textured, approachable and slightly savoury tannin structure. The wine matches well with braised meat dishes (Osso Bucco, beef cheeks or lamb shanks) and also works with cheese based pasta dishes, cured meats, olives and some cheeses." 

IWFS Victoria's Amber Dowling receiving the
Andre Simon Bronze

As said, I didn't get it. Perhaps it was because it came out with the Brancott Late Harvest and looking to follow one with the other was never going to work. At least not with the dessert. Cheese is traditionally supposed to help wines that are a bit fierce in the bottle. Didn't help me too much here, sad to say. Will have to try this one in different circumstances - maybe a full bodied pasta ragout with lashings of parmesan cheese. 

There were a couple more speeches during which Auckland's Rowan received the Blue Medal of Recognition and Amber was given a case of wine by Rowan (which I decided to take from her and park it at the table - no way could anyone manage holding a heavy case of booze to get it off the stage without some help). I was asked to give a song or two and then pretty much en masse all the pilgrims made for the exits. It was quite bizarre - one minute they were all sitting enjoying the night and the next 50% of them were gone. I guess I have a gift for clearing a room...   The diehards stayed on to help tuck away any remaining booze for a while, and there was a threat to move on elsewhere to continue the party. I opted against and quietly slunk off to the room after a few good nights on the way. There was to be a 10am AGM on the morrow and I did not feel like drifting through it with too much of a muzzy head. Divested the Tux, climbed into bed, chatted with Mossie about the night and drifted off to sleep. It had been a good day. Hopeful tomorrow would be too.

Yvonne, Rowan and James

IWFS APZ Gala Dinner

Menu

Entree

House Smoked Waitoa Free Range Chicken, Avocado Puree, Heirloom Tomatoes, Navel Orange and Watercress Salad

2018 Triplebank Pinot Gris, Marlborough NZ

Light Dish

Grilled Artichokes, Preserved Lemon, Roasted Almonds, Manuka Honey Dressing

2017 Nautilus Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough NZ

Main

Six Hours Braised Awhi Farm Aged Beef Short Rib, Warm Lengil Ragout, Zucchini Ribbons and Horseradish Cream

2016 Church Road McDonald Merlot, Hawkes Bay, NZ

Dessert

New Zealand Cheese and Petits Fours

Brancott Estate Letter Series Dessert Wine

Church Road Marzemino, Hawkes Bay NZ

IWFS Kuala Lumpur Tze Wan and Hansruedi Frutiger

IWFS Perth - Michael and Grace Tamburri

Newly gonged Amber receiving a Thank You from newly gonged Rowan Moss

This way to Day Three>>>

Back to Day One<<<<

IWFS Kuala Lumpur President's Dinner 2018 Sage Restaurant - brilliant!!

SATURDAY DECEMBER 8th 2018

Short Version

Another brilliant evening at the Sage for the IWFS KL President's Dinner of fantastically tasting food and wonderfully drinking wines.  And managing to raise RM300,000 from the members and guests for the charities from the members wine auction - a stunning bar raise from the amazing RM200,000 raised at the PD last year. Good fun evening, thoroughly enjoyed. Details on charities supported and wines donated by the members at the end of this post.

Tables One and Two at the Sage - love the ambience here

Long Version

Chef Daniel getting ready to, er, chef...

The IWFS President's Dinner – the Society’s black tie gala dinner – was once again be held at Sage Restaurant at the Gardens Hotel at Mid Valley in Kuala Lumpur. This made for the 6th year on the bounce. In my last report on the PD I set out the reasons for the continuing return which again prevailed this year -  the alternative venues still do not measure up to the service and quality of Chef Daniel's kitchen and the superb service given out by the Sage wines management. Everyone knows how everyone works and what needs to be done and… so far so good. It breeds tremendous confidence knowing that the food, the wine, and the service will all be handled well. 

And it is the same with the organisation on the IWFS KL side. We know what tasks need completion by when and it all goes relatively smoothly. Though this year the auction lists were a bit late due to some last minute donations being delivered at the Vintry needing inclusion. Little bit frazzling, but all seems to get handled with good humour. Though there was one member who on the day of the dinner wanted to bring two big bags of grapes for the members to munch on during canape time. Someone observed that their acidity had great potential to wreck the Champagne whilst another wondered whether Chef might throw a fit at such a late addition of this fruity amuse bouche and whether he could be persuaded to, er...   DO something with them; a coulis perhaps. In the end, the member apparently was finally persuaded against the gesture. No Grape Expectations happening here, hoh? Again, kudos to the Vintry team for managing and processing all the booze. 

He's making a list, he's checking it twice...

We again got a grant from our regional supervisory body, the IWFS Asia Pacific Zone (APZ) to go toward the purchase of special wines to again recognise the generosity of the IWFS KL members for their continual and massive generosity in giving to the charities every year. This year we had the Agrapart & Fils 7 Crus NV which proved a good rasping, er, rasp on the throat though it was better when chilled to the near freeze and got a shade over fruited when it was warmer. Lesson - drink it fast. 

Everyone was looking good in their tuxedos and evening gowns. It is fun to occasionally dress up to the nines and mingle with the members and catch up or bond over something bubbling. Some members we don't see from year to year for various reasons (travel, career, family) so the annual black tie seems to give more of a reason to get out and circulate. I was a solo potato this evening - the Lenglui had packed off with the Tai Chi group on an away to Shantou, an apparent food mecca of Teow Chew style cuisine. I naturally could not join because of the IWFS dinner; also I prefer not to visit anywhere that charges me for a visa to enter. Which may get more frequent given impending Brexit. That's all right - stay home and enjoy the local restaurants and shopping. Or just go back to Italy. And France. And Germany. and Spain. 

IWFS KL President Chan May Peng with
IWFS Hong Kong President Karen Leung

Foodwise, all the dishes were again magnificent and the wines all paired respectively well. Though the Doc and I did not get any of the Sauternes - it had all been sucked by the time we got back to the table from our auctioneering duties. So it goes - I swiped an open bottle of the JJ Confuron that had been conveniently left on the bar as compensation. The Doc did not complain. 

The starter Scallop was a beautiful bite with just enough crunch for interest whilst the Buri Fish was sublime and a fabulous match with the all honey and crisp apples Grand Cru Chablis. The venison and foie gras that followed was an amazing contrast in terms of full on taste and power on the tongue - felt a bit like eating an entire French Bistro in one mouthful. The JJ Confuron was brilliant - five years and drinking beautifully though still some good time to go. Have to see if the supplier got some I can store away - lovely drop. 

The cleanser was excellent - the Yuzu cut and slashed the gunk of the Venison Pate into gastronomic evaporation and the lamb that followed was absolutely fantastic. A double rib crusted with almond and the most amazing blue cheese sauce. The combo of meat, crust and sauce was… everything. Salt, sour, earth, mould, bite, chew, texture and all blending and welding and combining into something that was just….   wowwowwow. And the dessert that followed was equally wonderful - the melting Cointreau ice cream was completely off the planet and tasting of some joyous Dionysian or Bachanalian creation for the Gods. Both easily match some of the dishes I have had at European Michelins, and in many respects exceed. Who needs to travel when you have a star like Chef on the doorstep? Well done again Chef Daniel!!

One bite starters - amazing Scallop and excellent contrasts across the three

The two Lascombes were vibrant and bursting with fruit, though the 2005 had the edge in balance terms - bit more sleek and complex than the bright and lively racehorse that the 2008 presented. Both have a lot of time left in them, but drank well on the night. Outside of missing the Sauternes, the wine service was friendly and efficient and timely in terms of the staff seeing who were the boozers and topping up as and when. Great job guys!

The brilliant Buri Fish - all taste and texture and fiery pops of chive - belter

Again, Wine Doc Stephen and I were the designated auctioneers. The annual auction sees members donating some of their lovelies for auction for which members and guests on the night can bid, and all the proceeds will get directed to charities designated by Committee from time to time as worthy of support. The auction is split across two sessions, with the appropriate sequences of the lots and their reserve prices being decided by Vintry's Yin-How. Doc Stephen usually takes the first half of each session and I do the second halves. He is hugely knowledgeable of the wines and gives a serious introduction whereas I am more of a barrow boy hawker flogging off the goods. Makes for a good contrast and the punters seem to enjoy it. The early bids give a sense of how the crowd is feeling and tonight there felt a bit of electric in the air - there were some serious early bids and you could feel that the big hitters were not going to wait long in going for a strike. I picked up a magnum of Torbreck Runrig donated by Michelle at AsiaEuro, and as the lots got knocked down the bids got substantially higher. In the end, a mammoth RM300,000 got raised. Pleasantly shocked best describes how everyone felt at this news of the massive generosity of those who donated time and booze and money for the three causes (see below). 

Lovely wafer crunchy Venison pate en Croute and Foie Gras - the jus was brilliant and got soaked up with Bread and Butter

And that was pretty much it. Most of the members tumbled off in various states of happy and it was good to see that most people were actually drinking their wines this year. In previous years I have railed against the obscenity of the amount of undrunk wine left in glasses on the tables; it was heartening to see that this was way much less this year. No need to do a Mossie. Though Mossie was in actual attendance this year. Perhaps this was why. Whatever, he helped some of us diehard remainers polish off some leftover reds. Of course. 

Fresh Berry Soup with Nougat and Cointreau Ice Cream

And good to see that all members complied with the Formal Black Tie dress code and ensured their guests did so too and all wearing the medallions as well. Though I confess I almost forgot mine and halfway to the car before I remembered. Would be good if someone could take charge of all the medallions and bring them along to the functions so each can dig one out for the nonce. Better not be me, eh? 

THE CHEF AND HIS CUISINE

Chef K K Chong a.k.a. Daniel maintains a standard in preparation and presentation that comes from his many years of dedication to the art of food. Having spent years learning from Chef Takashi Kimura at both the Cilantro and the Sage restaurants, Chef Daniel took the helm of the Sage kitchen when completion of Cilantro renovations necessitated Chef Kimura's return. 

IWFS Past President David Teh and Pitt Lee with Chef Daniel and photobomb Dr George Lee

Chef Daniel is hugely dedicated to both the preparation and presentation of food, and consistently delivers some of the finest Japanese French fusion cuisine in the region. He has said: "Food is like a work of art. The plate is my canvas. The ingredients are my paint. The customers are my critique."  

THE MENU

Canape Served on Table

Seared Scallop with American Sauce

Kataifi Prawn with Wasabi Aioli

Amera Tomato Fruit with Aged Balsamic Dressing

Agrapart & Fils 7 Crus NV

First Course

Carpaccio of Buri Fish

with Shaved Truffle and Chives

Joseph Drouhin Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru 2015

Second Course

pate en Croute of Venison

with Goose Liver and Perigueux Sauce

JJ Confuron Chambolle Musigny 2013

Palate Cleanser

Yuzu Granite

Main Course

Confit of Suzuki fish

with Tsubugai and Champagne Emulsion

alternatively

Slow Cooked Almond Crusted Lamb Rack

with Blue Cheese Sauce

alternatively

Wagyu Score 6 Striploin

with Daikon Sauce

Chateau Lascombes Margaux 2008

Chateau Lascombes Margaux 2005

Dessert

Fresh Berry Soup

with Nougat and Cointreau Ice Cream

Chateau de Farques Sauternes 2006

Coffee or Tea

The Sage Team with IWFS KL President May Peng

THE DINNER WINES

Agrapart Brut Blanc de Blancs 7 crus 1er Cru NV

Agrapart's NV Brut Blanc de Blancs 7 Crus 1er Cru is surprisingly open in this release, most likely a reflection of the 50% 2015 juice in the blend. Resonant, expressive and giving, the 7 Crus will be very easy to drink young. Lemon peel, flowers and chamomile flesh out in the glass, but it is the wine's ripe personality and suppleness that stand out most. What a pretty wine this is. I don't remember the 7 Crus ever being this radiant, even after the 10% Pinot was added to the blend a few years ago.  ( Vinous 91 points)

Joseph Drouhin Les Clos Chablis Grand Cru 2015

Pale, bright yellow. Piquant, high-toned nose combines minerals, spearmint, ginger, nutmeg and crushed herbs. Sweet and plush on entry, then quite dry on the back half, with a minty, peppery element. (Vinous 89-92 points)

Domaine Jean Jacques Confuron Chambolle Musigny 2013 

Medium-deep red. Strawberry and licorice on the tight nose, along with an earthy nuance. Boasts good intensity but comes across as a bit tart, with black fruit flavors complicated by dark chocolate and licorice notes.  (Vinous 87-89 points)

Chateau Lascombes 2005

A gorgeous example of Lascombes, the 2005, a blend of 52% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, and the rest Petit Verdot, continues the remarkable turn-around in quality that began five years ago. A stunningly opulent wine with a dense purple color, the 2005 possesses a beautiful perfume of spring flowers, blueberries, blackberries, creosote, and graphite, full body, silky but noticeable tannins, a layered mouthfeel, and a stunning, 45+-second finish. (Parker 95 points)

Chateau Lascombes 2008

Another incredibly successful sleeper of the vintage, the 2008 Lascombes confirms just how many top 2008s were produced. A dark plum/ruby/purple-tinged color is followed by a sexy, up-front perfume of forest floor, damp earth, blue and red fruits and a touch of spicy oak. (Parker 93 points)

Chateau de Fargues 2006

The refuge of the Lur Saluces family after selling their beloved Yquem, this is an Yquem-like wine that sells for a fraction of the price fetched for the most famous wine of the region. Rich, honeyed citrus along with creme brulee, vanillin, sweet caramelized pineapple and citrus notes are followed by a wine with an unctuously thick, viscous, full-bodied mouthfeel, but with good enough acidity to balance out the wine’s enormous weight, richness, and concentration. (Parker 93 points)

The Dinner Wines taking a bow

Many thanks to the Wine Sub Committee team for selecting the wines and Wong Yin-How of Vintry for the wine notes. 

THE CHARITIES

This year, the IWFS Kuala Lumpur Committee has resolved to support the following three charities:- The Ampang Old Folks Home, Hospice Klang, and Kasih Hospice Care Society. 

AMPANG OLD FOLKS HOME

The Ampang Welfare Committee (Ampang Old Folks Home) is located in what was the old Ampang New Village. It commenced operating in 1948 when a group of helpless, elderly people who were incapable of building their own homes were placed in a long house which served as an old folks’ home.

With contributions from the public and the support of the Welfare Department, a new building was completed in 2000 to cater for these unfortunate elderly individuals.

There are presently 25 male residents and 25 female residents staying at the home. There is also a waiting list of ten people.

The home incurs a monthly expenditure of about RM20,000/-, which has to be raised solely from donations. Residents do not pay anything to stay there. 

HOSPICE KLANG / HOME PALLIATIVE CARE

Located at 82 Jalan Sri Sarawak 4, Taman Sri Andalas, 41200 Klang.

Created in 1996, Hospice Klang is a not-for-profit, non-political and non-governmental group providing home based palliative care to terminally ill patients of all ethnic groups in the Klang community. 

The aims are to alleviate the suffering of the patients and to enhance their quality of life in their remaining days as well as to offer support and advice to the families of cancer patients to help them care better for their relatives.

The hospice has a fulltime doctor, four nurses and twenty volunteers administering to around 150 patients at any one time. Almost all are suffering from some form of cancer. Many of the patients are referred to the hospice by the hospitals in the area. There are no in-patient services. In 2016, 5,002 home visits were made by the medical team. The average patient will only have about 75 days of care before he/she passes away. 

There are three grades of patients depending on their financial position: some have free care, some pay a little and some pay a bit more. The hospice relies mainly on public donations. The main costs that the hospice has is for the purchase of medications – mainly pain killers.

New premises for Klang Hospice are currently under construction on land donated by the Selangor State government, with completion due early 2018. 

KASIH HOSPICE CARE SOCIETY

Located at 16 Jalan SS3/29, 47300 Petaling Jaya, the Kasih Hospice has been ministering to patients with life limiting diseases, such as cancer and organ failure, irrespective of background, race or religion.

In 2016, 583 patients were cared for. Of these, 410 were suffering from cancer, 121 from end stage renal failure and 52 from other illnesses.

The care team is made up of two trained doctors and six nurses and sixty part-time volunteers. The object is to provide care at the patients’ homes. A visit is made at least once a week. The volunteers visit patients both at home and in hospitals – often just to chat and talk.

The Hospice offers the following services

• Managing patients’ symptoms (ie pain, nausea, shortness of breath etc.)
• Provide medication for symptom control
• Lending equipment free of charge (eg oxygen concentrators, ripple mattresses, wheelchairs)
• Education of basic nursing skills to patients and families/carers 
• Provide emotional/grief support to patients’ families

The running expenses are in the order of RM50,000/- a month. These are covered principally by donations from the public. 

Again, it is inspirational to see the work the team carries out and the true devotion they all have. They really need our support and help, so please donate generously.  

THE DONATED WINES FOR MEMBERS FRIENDLY AUCTION

Bid me where? Auction team members Doc Rajan, Doc Stephen and Sanjeev 

SESSION 1

LOT 1 - 2 GIACOMO BORGOGNO RISERVA 1990

The 1990 Barolo Riserva is initially rather imposing, but then settles down a bit with air. A myriad of tar, smoke, tobacco, herbs and dried prunes emerge from this relatively forward Barolo. The warmth of the 1990 vintage is most apparent in the round, generous finish.  (Vinous 89)

LOT 2 - 1 LOUIS ROEDERER CRISTAL 2006

The 2006 Cristal shows rich and ripe (tropical) fruit on the nose along with delicate brioche notes. Round and textured on the palate, this is a generous but fresh, fine and salty Cristal with a very long and greatly finessed finish. (Wine Advocate 95)

LOT 3 - 1 CHATEAU LA MISSION HAUT BRION 2014

An exquisite bouquet with pure black fruit, cold stone, a touch of black olive and later a suggestion of boysenberry preserve. The palate is still structured and considering that a majority is Merlot, quite masculine. (Wine Advocate 95)

LOT 4 - 1 DOM PERIGNON 1996 

The brilliant 1996 Dom Perignon, which has largely disappeared from the marketplace, may be the finest young example of DP I have ever tasted. Notes of crushed rocks, honeysuckle, lemon oil, orange marmalade, and white pear provide a stunning aromatic display as well as palate impression. Great acidity and huge flavor intensity backed up by vibrant acidity make this an exquisite Champagne. (Wine Advocate 98)

LOT 5 - 1 TORBRECK RUN RIG SHIRAZ 2015

Enormously appealing aromas of grilled fruit, savory complexities and rich, velvety tannins. Of course, it's full-bodied and concentrated, with the stuffing to age for up to a couple of decades, and it has a long, licorice-tinged finish.  (Wine Advocate 98)

LOT 6 - 1 CHATEAU PONTET CANET 2010 & 1 CHATEAU LYNCH BAGES 2010 

Chateau Lynch Bages 2010

A magnificent wine with the classic creme de cassis note intermixed with smoke, graphite and spring flowers. It is a massive Lynch Bages, full-bodied and very 1989-ish, with notable power, loads of tannin, and extraordinary concentration and precision. (Wine Advocate 96)

Chateau Pontet Canet 2010

An astounding, compelling wine with the classic Pauillac nose more often associated with its cross-street neighbor, Mouton-Rothschild, creme de cassis, there are also some violets and other assorted floral notes. The wine has intensity but never comes across as heavy or astringent. (Wine Advocate 100)

LOT 7 - 1 CHATEAU MOUTON ROTHSCHILD 2012

The palate is beautifully balanced with great vim and vigor. This is a Mouton that will not be put down - vivacious, vivid and delineated with wonderful focus and crucially, impressive persistence on the finish. (Wine Advocate 96)

LOT 8 - 1 CHATEAU HAUT BRION 2004

The palate is medium-bodied and very harmonious, almost caressing thanks to the Merlot lending that velvety texture. The second half changes tack, the Cabernet nudging the Merlot off the stage and delivering a more structured, finish that is linear and correct. (Wine Advocate 93)

LOT 9 - 1 DOMAINE FRANCOIS LAMARCHE LE GRAND RUE GRAND CRU 2015

One of 3 great monopoles remaining in Vosne Romanee, together with the Romanee Conti and La Tache vineyards. The 2015 La Grand Rue Grand Cru has a concentrated bouquet, very pure but more introspective than its peers. It unfolds to reveal gorgeous, seductive scents of wild strawberry, raspberry, orange blossom and sous-bois. (Vinous 95)

Lot 10 - 1 CHATEAU LATOUR 2002

Crushed rocks, black currants, and forest floor, dense, full-bodied, and opulent, yet classic with spectacular aromatics, marvelous purity, and a full-bodied finish that lasts just over 50+ seconds. Huge richness and the sweetness of the tannin are somewhat deceptive as this wine seems set for a long life. (Wine Advocate 96)

LOT 11 - 1 CHATEAU HAUT BRION 1985 

It has an elegant bouquet with sandalwood and dried rose petals that combine effortlessly with vestiges of red berry fruit. I noticed how with time in the glass, it offers a "side order" of wild girolles! The palate is medium-bodied with a fine seam of acidity, delicate tertiary and leather tones infiltrating the red berry fruit. (Wine Advocate 93)

LOT 12 - 1 CHATEAU MARGAUX 2000

The extraordinary seductiveness, complex aromatics, and purity it exhibits lead me to believe it has reached its window of full maturity. Medium-bodied, with layers of concentration, stunning blue, red, and black fruits intermixed with spring flowers, a subtle dosage of new oak, and a distinctive personality that is elegant while at the same time powerful and substantial (Wine Advocate 100)

SESSION 2

Lot 13 - 1 CHATEAU MONTROSE 1996

The palate is wonderful with very fine delineation, pitch-perfect acidity, touches of graphite infusing the red and black fruit that dovetails into a very pretty, floral finish. This is clearly one of the great wines of the 1996 vintage. (Wine Advocate 96)

Lot 14 - 1 M.CHAPOUTIER ERMITAGE LE MEAL 2012

A blockbuster that's about as voluptuous and sexy as Hermitage gets. Loaded with cassis, black raspberry, leather, dried violets and wild herbs, this beauty is full-bodied, has tons of sweet tannin and brilliant purity of fruit. (Wine Advocate 98)

LOT 15 - 1 CHATEAU PICHON LONGUEVILLE COMTESSE DE LALANDE 1983

The color is still a healthy dark garnet with some amber creeping in at the edge. The wine shows a very distinctive nose of asphalt, tobacco, and cigar box, intermixed with some sweet cherries and black currants. (Wine Advocate 90)

LOT 16 - 2 BOLLINGER RD EXTRA BRUT CHAMPAGNE 2002

2002 R.D. has plenty of depth, but it is depth through concentration as opposed to elevated ripeness. The low dosage style further adds to that sensation. Hints of chamomile, sage, dried flower and red fruits emerge over time, (Vinous 95)

LOT 17 - 1 CHATEAU ANGELUS 2009

The wine is full-bodied, with a voluptuous texture a magnificent concentration and purity of fruit, a stunning finish of close to a minute, and wonderfully sweet, velvety tannins that make for a prodigious Angelus that should turn out to be one of the all-time greats ever made at this estate. (Wine Advocate 99)

LOT 18 - 1 CHATEAU HAUT BRION 2002

Haut-Brion has turned out a beautifully classic, medium-bodied, precise and focused 2002 boasting a deep ruby/purple color as well as strikingly elegant aromatics (crushed stones, plums, black cherries, currants, figs, and earth). The wine possesses impressively measured power and elegance. (Wine Advocate 92-94)

LOT 19 - 1 CHATEAU MOUTON ROTHSCHILD 2002

The palate is well balanced with crisp acidity. It feels lively on the entry with fine tannin, a Mouton that is nimble on its feet with a gentle grip towards the finish, which offers a satisfying aftertaste of spice and clove. (Wine Advocate 91)

LOT 20 - 1 DOMAINE COMTE LIGER BELAIR CLOS DU CHATEAU 2007

The superstar producer of Vosne Romanee and has entered into the rarified echelons of Leroy and Romanee Conti. This is a rare wine from the vineyard monopole that is exclusive to this producer. Complex and deeply spiced yet delicately red fruited and deceptively long on the finish. A wine for the Burgundy lover.

LOT 21 - 1 CHATEAU LAFITE ROTHSCHILD 2001

The 2001 Lafite Rothschild’s deep, saturated plum/purple color is accompanied by lead pencil liqueur-like notes intermixed with sweet red and black currants, plums, and cedar. This blend of 86.5% Cabernet Sauvignon and 13.5% Merlot is a classic example of Lafite. (Wine Advocate 94)

LOT 22 - 1 CHATEAU RAYAS CHATEAUNEUF DU PAPE ROUGE 2007 AND 1 CHATEAUNEUF DU PAPE BLANC 2007

The elusive Chateau Rayas has a cult-like status due to its extremely limited production and terroir driven complex style.

Chateauneuf du Pape Rouge 2007

Burgeoning aromatics of black raspberries, black cherries, truffles and licorice lead to a full-bodied, powerful Rayas with sweet tannin, adequate acidity, and an ethereal richness. Sensual texture. This is a spectacular Rayas, the likes of which hasn’t existed at this qualitative level since 1995. (Wine Advocate 98)

Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc 2007

Less than 500 cases made. This full-bodied, powerful wine offers up incredible notes of pineapple, white currants, quince, flowers, poached pear, and caramelized tangerine. (Wine Advocate 95)

Lot 23 - 1 CHATEAU MOUTON ROTHSCHILD 1989

Bright red with a pale rim. Floral, aromatic nose offers scents of lavender, sour red cherry, strawberry jelly, vanilla, cinnamon and minerals. Sweet, suave and fresh, with lively if delicate flavors of ripe red berries and plum nicely lifted by aromatic spices and cedar. (Vinous 90)

LOT 24 - 1 CHATEAU AUSONE 1997

A fine wine, this dark purple-colored effort reveals black raspberry, blackberry, mineral, and floral aromas in its complex, multidimensional bouquet. In the mouth, it is medium-bodied, with sweet, ripe fruit, firm tannin, good acidity, and a long, well-endowed, moderately tannic finish.  (Wine Advocate 91) 

LOT 25 - 1 CHATEAU LAFITE ROTHSCHILD 2004 (Magnum)

Wondrous bouquet, very sensual and pure with blackberry, graphite and cedar - all the hallmarks of Pauillac, delivered with great panache. It is more opulent than I recall. The palate is medium-bodied with silky tannins, pitch-perfect acidity and a beautiful structure. There is a regal sense to this Lafite (Wine Advocate 95)