Soleil Delivers Again!! IWFS Wine Dinner Feb 27th 2014

Following on from our brilliant tour of Penang and a fantastic four nights in Tokyo celebrating the launch of our newest cousin club in Roppongi, the IWFS KL foodies were definitely in the mood for some good hearty Western cuisine. The Penang Laksa and the light as a dreamy feather Tzukiji Fish market Sashimi needed to make way for something that needed to stick in the craw and satisfy that part of us which some call the soul. So it was that the Soleil became the choice for our February gathering. Reservations had all been snapped up well in advance and the numbers had been expanded from the snugly fitting forty to the slightly belt straining forty five on the night. Given that there was another function going on upstairs, it looked as it might be a challenge. It was, but it was adequately and well met.

Soleil Interior

Located in the sleepy Section 17 area of Petaling Jaya to the west of KL, the Soleil restaurant has quickly garnered a well earned reputation for quality preparation and fine wine presentation. It is operated by the SW Wine Group, serving mostly modern European cuisine with subtle Asian influence. The restaurant boasts a plethora of fresh imported and local seafood options as well as other delectable items including a small selection of meats and pastas on its menu. We first heard about it six months ago and have had the opportunity to revisit on four occasions since. Young Belgian Chef Evert Onderbeke has continued to impress with his preparations. The restaurant is managed by old friend Azwan Effandie (previously at Sage) and Wine Sommelier Yuhei Teraoka (previously at Vinum). Our most recent outing there was a fun filled New Year's Eve with our Rowdies and our own wine. Raucous party and great food. 

Arriving a bit late due to to bad traffic on all roads, the party was already in full swing with everyone quaffing the crispily dry Raventos bubbly. A biodynamically produced 3 grape fizz popular in such 3 star Michelins as El Bulli and Arzak, they refuse to adopt the Cava label preferring instead their own Denominacion - the Conca del Riu de Anioa in Penedes. The notes spoke about the wine being "straw coloured with fine bubbles, a nose of brioche, yeast and citrus fruits. Zesty and balanced, it is medium bodied and finishes with a good length." Certainly had the length though lighter in texture and very more-ish. A great easy drinker though with enough for the connoisseur, it provided a good ice breaking start to the evening. 

It was also being paired with the Fresh Crab and Citrus Salad appetizer. On its own, this was lovely. The crab was absolutely delightful, a melange of soft flaky textures and creamy tastes that wafted across the tongue and palate. Against this, the Bloody Mary sorbet gave a cold ice contrast and the addition of Basil sauce became genius, pulling all the textures together with a herby fusing of flavours that just sang together. Rich, opulent and totally luscious. The salad felt like a bit of an afterthought taste-wise but looked good on the plate. Not sure the fizz would have been first choice pairing but it did well. 

Crab and Citrus Salad Appetizer

The Volcano Black Salt sitting in its dish like grated gravel gave a spritzy seaside zap to the butter on the freshly baked bread that fired up the taste buds a treat. A veritable cracker with the fizz and forcing more requests for refills from the nice man with the bottle. He complied. Many times.

The clean and crisp Valdesil

The second wine out was the 2010 Val de Sil Godello (Valdeorras) from Galicia, in Spain. Valdesil is a family-owned winery with grapes produced in slate soil along the River Sil from the oldest Godello vines in the world and acknowledged as some of the top white wines of Galicia. The notes talk about a wine that is "light, bright gold (with) Expressive aromas of citrus, white peaches and floral notes. Richly textured and dry, with a clarity of the gently smoky orchard fruit flavors dominated with fresh apricots and peaches. Finishes on a firm mineral note and some lees influence with firm and well judged acidity." We got a clean crisp bite, smoky fruit, persimmon, with a bit of oil on the tongue. In the mouth it felt like a Steen or Chenin Blanc with that slight oiliness in the texture. Nice lustre on the finish, feeling firm in the descent. It would prove a good match with the langoustine, which was absolutely deeee-lightful. Perhaps a shade overcooked but nevertheless sweet and chewy with a good firm bite. The Pea Coulis and Eggplant Puree lent a vegetal gunge feel to the ensemble which coated the tongue and throat with a slightly salty edge that the wine was able to cut through nicely. But the butter with the volcano salt was still master of the tongue - could chew on this all night. 

Pan Fried Langoustines with Eggplant Puree, Green Pea Coulis and Sauteed Snow Peas

The service of both the food and the wines was proving very good and timely with the starting dishes having come out quite quickly and in brisk succession. Our experience of the restaurant suggested that the later dishes would take a little more time given the timings involved across both lamb and beef. But having two great dishes out early we were now in no great hurry to get fed. A bit of time to enjoy the wines and the company. 

YC Yap, President Rajan and Past President Dato' Jeremy Diamond

Third wine out was the 2011 Albariño, DO Rías Baixas, Pazo de Señoráns, Spain. We were clearly seeing a real Spanish theme in the wines which fit the cuisine nicely. The winemaker's notes talk about a "superb straw colour with green shades, floral aromas and ripe fruit with hints of apple and grapefruit on the nose. Round and well balanced with great length and a lingering finish.” 

Critic Stephen Tanzer gave it 92, noting its "sappy orchard fruit and melon flavours are braced by tangy citrus fruits and dusty minerals, with a touch of tropical fruits emerging on the back half.  Dry, focused and deeply fruity, finishing with impressive clarity and mineral cut.” We found it nicely lean with an opulent feel of sweet honeyed apples in the mouth. Got floral nose with hints of lavender and fresh meadows. 

Tasmanian Ocean trout in Bouillabaisse Broth with Fine Vegetables

The matching Bouillabaisse broth was somewhat light and delicate for me - I like my bouillabaisse to be firm and full and hearty to stave off the nasty winter chill while waiting for the grapes to grow. This evening's offering was well seasoned fish stock lightly salted though with lots of taste, Some later commented that it was a bit "bouillabaissey" which I took to mean over stocked and tending toward the fishy. Perhaps, though not overly so in my book. Just felt the need for a shade more whack in the craw on the way down. The chunks of Ocean Trout felt like lightly poached salmon in the broth and were excellent, whilst the clams felt okay only. I didn't and generally don't do mussels. There's just something about that orange and black on grey and that fringed rubbery look like a pair of schoolgirl's knickers that says yuck. My mussel got swallowed by YC, he clearly taking pity on seeing my disdainful visage. He's good like that.

Past President David Teh (right) and friend

The Albarino stood up nicely to the broth and the salmon chunks, though I find wine and soup are rarely easy to pair together well. Often the best we can hope for is that the wine pushes the soup down and clears the mouth and palate for the next spoonful. Which the Albarino did very well. Good neutral choice with enough body to enjoy on its own whilst coating the throat to ease the food on its way to gustatory oblivion. 

It's always a bit of a bind when there is a choice of main course and when both the two dishes and wines on offer come out at different times. Manners and etiquette demand that no one starts until all the food is on the table. Equally, one likes the proper wine being paired to be on the table with the food. Whilst this was fine for me, it seemed that one guest was unable to start due to the stated pairing wine not being on the table. I think the Barolo was a bit late and he was having the beef which had come out surprisingly fast. Well, yes and okay and I have been equally picky in the past, but lately if there is food on the table and wine to hand then why not? I had the lamb and a glass of something red next to it and was eagerly waiting for the get go. But good manners must prevail, and whilst those waiting for the beef were kind enough to invite those with food to go ahead, most of us didn't. Got to keep the kitchen on its toes under the fear of having the food sent back for getting cold on the table. As said, the beef came out quite quickly. Good timing in the kitchen!

IWFS Wine Sub Comm Chair Prakash with Dr Jag

Normally, the books say a Cabernet is the default wine for lamb. However, the 2009 Kanonkop Pinotage from Stellenbosch had been chosen for the nonce. Seems the Pinotage grape was "invented" in 1925 by the University of Stellenbosch's first professor of viticulture Abraham Izak Perold when he physically brushed a flower of Pinot Noir against a flower of Cinsault (known locally as Hermitage). This created the cross-pollinated variant we know as Pinotage. So. The notes talk of "distinctive spicy, earthy, and smoky flavors along with red fruits especially cherry. Medium to full bodied, it is intense and has a good length." We got dark cherry fruit with rich damson and plum in the mouth though a bit of a claggy throat grip on the finish, not dissimilar to having a glug of cough syrup coating the tonsils. But interesting, nonetheless. 

Oven Baked Rack of Lamb with Sauteed Green Vegetables, Herbs Crumble and Tarragon Sauce

The lamb was magnificent. Tender, and lean though maybe the jus was a bit on the rich side for taste. Matching with the Pinotage was a great move and a revelation. As said, normally the default for lamb would be a Cabernet Sauvignon based wine but this absolutely worked, with the lamb taming the even tannins to let the fruit fully shine through and up the balance to very pleasant indeed. The wine needed the meat there to cut through the clag and render a lovely silk finish on the wine. As a result the wine kept on giving and giving down the bottle. A masterly choice.

President Dr Rajan, Restaurant Manager Effandie and Chef Evert

I had a bite of the roast beef and O what a bite it was. The Soleil has a little bit of a lower reputation for its meat preparation compared to its seafood but tonight it was totally on song. Very nicely done with a good firm bite and chew. The kitchen is clearly improving in the beef regard, though the seafood is still the business and the gift of the chef.

Bravo!!

The matching wine selected was the 2001 Paolo Scavino Barolo Carobric. Founded in 1921 the winery produces seven different styles of Barolo, including four single vineyard Barolos. We were having a blend of Cannubi, Rocche di Castiglione Falleto (80%), and Bric dël Fiasc, hence the name (Ca + Ro + Bric). The notes tell of a "slightly bricking medium red violet color. Balsamic, herbal, tar, grassy nose, it opens in the palate with tangy, tart red fruit, cedar, spicy cherry, and green herbs with firm tannins. It finishes medium to long."

We found fair fruit though somewhat lean and slightly harsh on the finish, notwithstanding a six hour decant. It was open enough, just not really enough body or fruit to stand up to the food for me. Not sure if it was worth the WA 94 or WS 93 it had been accorded. Maybe a bit past its prime food wise but still a pleasant enough late evening quaffer. No one else seemed to be complaining. Maybe it was just me. A gobful of big wine can often consume a lighter and more delicate offering - perhaps this was the case here with the Barolo following the Pinotage. Maybe it was just a light Barolo. Maybe I'm getting too prissy about my chug. After all, it's only wine (cue howls of "Sacrilege!! Heresy!!"). It is. Only. Wine.  Yes, we will seek out and drink the magnificent when opportunity allows and enjoy it to the hilt, but otherwise I stand firm that us wineys should not allow detraction from perfect to cloud our enjoyment. All wine is good wine except for that which is chemically undrinkable. The rest is a matter of taste and appreciation. Make observations rather than judgements. Yes. End of sermon.

Orange Tart with Vanilla Jelly served with Lemongrass Ice Cream

Dessert was a jaunty affair of crunchy biscuit with citrus fruit and a very nice combo to boot. Good refreshing fruity acid crunch which set well against the ice cream which itself was creamy light and smooth rather than throat claggy or overpowering.

Cheers!!

The staff were getting a bit over-keen of removing glasses and on three occasions I had to restrain them. The glasses were not empty and had remnants for later reference. Got a bit irritated at the third restraint. Yuhei, please take note! However, this aside the IWFS Dinner at the Soleil was delightful. We had some very well thought out wine pairings with some very good tasting and well prepared food and there were very few complaints on the night. Totally excellent evening and always happy to return. No wine was left over. Always a good sign. Cheers!

SOLEIL Menu 27th February, 2014

Pre Dinner

Raventos I Blanc L’Hereu, Penedes, Spain

Appetizer

Fresh Crab and Citrus Salad with Basil Cream and Bloody Mary sorbet

Raventos I Blanc L’Hereu, Penedes, Spain

Entree

Pan Fried Langoustines with Eggplant Puree, Green Pea Coulis and Sauteed Snow Peas.

2010 Val de Sil Godello (Valdeorras), Galicia, Spain.

Soup

Tasmanian Ocean trout in Bouillabaisse Broth with Fine Vegetables

2011 Albariño, DO Rías Baixas, Pazo de Señoráns, Spain.

Main Course

Pan Seared Black Angus Beef Tenderloin with Sauteed Seasonal Vegetables, and Szechuan Pepper Sauce

                                                                               Or

Oven Baked Rack of Lamb with Sauteed Green Vegetables, Herbs Crumble and Tarragon Sauce

2009 Kanonkop Pinotage, Stellenbosch, South Africa.

2001 Paolo Scavino Barolo Carobric, Piedmont, Italy.

Dessert

Orange Tart with Vanilla Jelly served with Lemongrass Ice Cream

IWFS Vintry Ampang Nov 2012 - Excellent wines, okay food

IWFS DINNER VINTRY AMPANG NOVEMBER 6TH 2012

The latest IWFS Kuala Lumpur eating adventure took place at the recently opened Vintry in Ampang. Located in the middle of a row of shophouses just off the main Ampang road, this third in the Malaysian chain sports the warm and welcoming shelves of wine to choose for enjoying with the dinner that is served in the upstairs section. Lots of wood and barrels doubling as bars for drinks and chat set a homely rustic feel. 

Champagne ladies!

Billed as "A True Vintry Experience" both the food and wine looked promising matches. French style entrees with Wagyu beef or Iberico pork ribs as the main being paired with French and Italian wines. Chef Esther as resident chef at the Ampang outlet was joined by Chef Wayne from the Vintry outlet in Singapore who had been flown in to join the culinary fun. 

There were 54 members and guests in attendance on the night, all being welcomed with a glass of freshly sweetish prosecco. The Vetriano was billed as a classic dry style with citrus and lemon nose and crisp apple acidity and lemon zest on the palate. The sweetness got a bit cloying by the fourth glass, though perhaps this was more the wine warming up. Went very nicely with some amazing canapes - goat's cheese and apricot jam on crackers and the skewered prunes wrapped in bacon were a total delight. Vintry really does the finger food tremendously well.

YC Yap, Barry Shaw and Brian Mack

Everyone got herded up the stairs to the dining area and seated in a medieval style setting on benches of tables with two smaller groups parked next to the bar. A bit of a tight fit but no one seemed to be complaining. The airconditioners were blowing full blast and got a bit cold if one was sat directly in their path. When it was discovered that the kitchen was downstairs at the back of the restaurant and that the food had to run the gauntlet of all the airconditioning, the more pessimistic started grumbling about the spectre of the food coming out cold. The more optimistic felt all shoud give the place a chance. 

The first wine out of the blocks was the Les Heritiers de Lafon Vire Clesse 2010. An Allan Meadows 91 pointer, Vintry owner Wong Yin How's verbal introduction suggested crisp minerality whilst the tasting notes spoke of a "fresh bright nose of ripe yellow orchard fruit" and "generous, seductive and opulent medium-bodied flavours that possess excellent intensity on the vibrant, balanced, palate staining and long citrus-infused finish." The table bibbers got apples and oak on the nose and palate, a crisp full body with melons and apples and a slightly chewy texture and a long citrus finish. 

There seemed to be quite a time gap between the wine and the food arriving at the table, with the result that half the wine had disappeared before the food made it from downstairs. This can make the exercise of seeking to comment on the wine and food matches a shade redundant, especially if the policy in place is a single glass per person per course. Which seemed to indeed be in place since no refilling bottles appeared evident. At least the subzero aircon did sterling work in keeping the wine nicely chilled in the glass. It did eventually warm and started giving off honey notes on the nose.

The first course of Papillote of Cod topped with Ikura and drizzled with a sweet lemon and butter emulsion eventually appeared and was ultimately worth the wait. Preparing food en papillote means the food is wrapped "in parchment" paper and steamed in a conventional oven, with liquid occasionally added to give flavor and the steam. It is a delicate process, requiring foods that cook quickly whilst remaining sufficiently able to absorb the range of herb and seasoning in the bouillon. Non oily fish is the default choice. 

Papillote of Cod

The Papillote texture was one of a beautifully fluffy omelette that floated across the tongue, given sweet and crispy wings by fresh tomato and salt from the Ikura. Most commented that the Papillote was similar to Otak Otak, a South Asian fish cake made with fish paste, herbs, spices and eggs, though the Papillote lacked the bite of Otak Otak. It cut the minerality in the Lafon, thus enhancing the fruit whilst maintaining the crispness of the wine. A most pleasant match.

The second dinner wine was the Guigal Crozes Hermitage Blanc 2010 from the Rhone. The Guigal reds are regular wine choices when seen on the wine lists in KL's restaurants. A Wine Advocate 89 pointer, the Guigal had the same blend of grapes as the Lafon, though with more minerality and higher acids as well as less flesh, depth and fat. It is a stylish, Chablis-like Crozes to drink in its first 4-5 years of life."  Yin How suggested apricots and honeysuckle to be found in the wine, it was a shade overchilled so no nose was immediately apparent. We got flint and steel minerality and honey and melon in the mouth, though a shade oily in texture. Liquorice and nutmeg, cinnamon spice, long lovely finish. 

Again, the gap between wine and food seemed to border on the interminable. The second course was Provencal Style Bouillabaise Infused with Saffron and served with garlic bread wafers. Seems the soup had been simmered for half a day with a combination of fishes. Our fears of the effect of running the subzero aircon gauntlet were realised when the Bouillabaise came to the table with the fish pieces cold and a bit overcooked. Oddly enough, no one sent it back, possibly fearing it might take a second age to come back to the table. The broth is traditionally the key to great Bouillabaise and the Vintry offering came across as spicy though not overly so. The garlic bread wafers gave a butternut sweetness to the broth whilst both let the Guigal give off some persimmon fruit on the palate. 

There was a comment to the effect that having two fish dishes follow each other did not somehow feel proper and that maybe a different texture might have been more appropriate. Research could not find anything to suggest that having two fish courses served one after the other was wrong. The web experts seem to say that so long as there is contrast in colours, tastes, textures and temperatures and the entire menu has a sense of movement and unity, nothing is improper. 

Stephanie, Edna and Lily

The third wine was the Domaine Taupenot Merme Chambolle Musigny 2008. Developed by the 7th generation brother and sister team of Romain and Virginie, the notes of this Allan Meadows 86 pointer spoke of an "airy, bright and pure red pinot fruit nose nuanced by a hint of minerality that transfers over to the lilting and lacy middle weight flavours that are supple, forward and refined." Yin How suggested it to be a classically elegant and aromatic Burgundy and so it proved to be. Lovely nose of black cherry and liquorice, light in body yet supple in texture with firm tannins beautifully balanced, spice on the palate with a clean medium finish. 

Third course was a Foie Gras Mousse and Goose Salami duo served with strawberry coulis on brown bread. This was a bit strange, reminiscent of an open sandwich that had been shrunk. Tastewise, the bread overpowered all else that came on top so that any blending of food tastes and textures got lost in the rich darkness of the rye. When separated, each element was excellent - the goose salami paired particularly well with the Chambolle whilst the Foie Gras mousse pretty much evaporated on contact with the roof of the mouth. Someone once described Foie Gras as "meat butter" which would make the mousse more of a whipped meat cream. Possibly a shade molecular for many tastes and needing a less rich bread base. Credit for seeking to experiment, though maybe a case of the parts being better than the sum. 

The fourth wine was the robust Casanova di Neri Brunello di Montalcino 2007.  Apparently served from magnums and decanted for three hours, this Wine Advocate 93 pointer "bursts from the glass with freshly cut flowers, violets, leather, licorice and black cherries. Firm underlying tannins lend vibrancy to the voluptuous fruit."  Beautiful wine. We got a powerful nose of brambles and black cherry and spice with chocolate and coffee notes. Firm astringent tannins, lovely full body and long on the palate with a firm medium finish. One to keep, 

Fourth course was a choice of either Smoked Spanish Iberico Pork Loin Ribs or Braised Wagyu Beef Cheeks with hand-picked wild mushrooms with each being served with the same truffle infused mashed potatoes and seasonal vegetables. The lightly peppered ribs were excellent and an excellent match with the Brunello, though the chef's decision to cut them short rather than leave them long drew some comment from those who presumably like to chew on the bone. The meat cut the tannins nicely and let the fruit come through to dance with the pepper on the tongue. 

Wagyu Beef Cheeks

Wagyu is the meat that comes from those breeds of cattle which have huge levels of fat lined through the meat, hence the term "marbled". There is an art to developing the marbling, and the cattle are treated like royalty with special feeding of top quality grains, beer, and the legendary massaging. Originating in Japan, the cattle are now bred in both the US and Australia where feeding the cattle is more economically sensible than needing to import the special feed for the cattle in Japan. A quick taste of the beef cheeks with the garlic mash found them to be of very good texture with that traditional melt in the mouth oily coating that good wagyu gives. The sauce was nicely bland, givng the cheeks enough gravy for taste though not so much to mask the meat - a welcome change compared to the wagyu decisions of other restaurants. They showed off the wine quite nicely, though, with the sauce and texture mingling with the fruit to give that great sense of well being that ony great food and wine can truly give. A good expression for those who enjoy the wagyu. 

Dessert was Caramelised Peaches, Apples and Apricot Clafouti served with vanilla ice-cream which was a sweetly crisp and crunchy way to round off the evening, as was the generosity of the staff with the remaining Brunello and Chambolle. 

In sum, the wines were wonderful whilst the food ranged from average to very good. The canapes were totally off the map tasty, the ribs were excellent whilst the beef cheeks were well prepared and not over sauced. The Papillote and the Bouillabaise broth had nice body and texture. The progression of the menu was visually pleasant and texturally good, though maybe a question over having two fish dishes follow each other. Some found it a bit odd. The Foie Gras mousse came across as experimental but the ensemble missed the taste mark completely, thanks to the overly rich bread. The cold fish was disappointing. 

As an occasional regular at other Vintry outlets, it does seem to be a Vintry characteristic that the pork dishes are consistently very good whilst other types of fare tend to pale in comparison. They seem to lack that smack inside the mouth quality that the pork dishes regularly display. The offerings are consistently good, but always seem to lack that quintessential quality that would convert the dining into "fine". The Vintry in Ampang should prove a most pleasant detour and watering stop should one find themselves shopping at the excellent Ampang Mini Market on the corner of the block. As a destination restaurant, the prospect of fighting the Ampang Road traffic to get there for those of us living on the other side of town is a daunting one. Great for those living on that side of town, but the rest of us will stick to the Ribs in Damansara. 

 Photos by Jan Shaw