Cannes to Paris Avalon Cruise September 2017 - Day Four

Lenglui and flowers at Carlton International

Cannes to Paris Avalon Cruise September 2017 - Day Four

September 19, 2017

Restless sleep tonight for some reason. Woke at 2am to use the bathroom was awake till 4. This is not unusual - most of my nights follow this kind of pattern, though usually it is as a result of a large night and the alcohol still running around the system. So it goes. When like this, I fire up the iPad and write lyrics. Usually get some good ones; there is this little window as the brain drifts into sleep that gets hugely fertile for words and lyric lines that seem to work amazingly well, and I have to stir to write them down before they vanish as sleep takes over. Some of the better ones seem to last through to wake up, but better to catch them fresh. 

Awake at 7.30am in an insanely darkened room - the curtains were amazing; barely a shred of light slipped through. Got showered and dressed and packed and down to the Restaurant for a well tasty breakfast of ham, croissants and cheese with coffee. We normally take advantage of breakfast and make and pack a couple of Bread Roll sandwiches for the bus ride - experience finds us a bit peckish and when lunch is uncertain those ham and cheese rolls fill a gap nicely. Met with two new friends, Thompson and Wife, Scots lady, he an engineer, pipes I think. Can't remember them now. 

Hotel view from the restaurant verandah

On the way back to the room, new Cruiser friend Janice took a photo of us in the lobby. Can't remember her neither. 

Lenglui and coffee. And hat.

We decided to check out early and go for a stroll and also pick up the Caviar set reserved the day before. Got a slight shock with the bill with a Four Euro charge for a Nespresso capsule. I had made the assumption that the coffee in the room was complimentary and clearly now It was not. Four euro for a capsule! Literally this left a bad taste. Lesson -  never trust an expensive hotel to give things for free. 

Another ongoing story - Lenglui had previously fallen for the Carlton phone charger and had requested a new one for to buy. This process took over fourteen hours to finalise; seems front desk Concierge had to talk to Room Service who had to talk to Supplies who had to talk back to front desk…  I think it was only on threat to walk away and get on the bus that it finally got resolved. "Eeet ees no more mai problem, Ai 'ave spoke to theee perrrrson 'oo eees eeen charge…  whai 'ave zey not spoken to yooo, Ai don't know…." - quintessentially French. 

The instruction had been to leave the properly tagged bags in the rooms and they would get loaded on to lorries and transported ahead whilst we Cruisers would travel a shade later by bus. Theory was that all bags would be in the cabins by the time we arrived. Which almost worked out - bags were in the cabins about ten minutes after we were. Guess they needed to finalise who would be having what rooms and using this as a double check to avoid bags going astray. Makes sense. Guess they know their logistics - always a good sign. 

View across Cannes bay from Carlton Verandah. With the Celebrity.

We had been advised that we could park our hand baggage in a side room (the Sirocco) which we did and then it was off into the brilliantly blue Cannes morning. The stroll took us past a couple of obligatory pharmacies for Lenglui to stock up on necessaries and to scout for new pharmaceutical treasures before bending back to the wine store and payment. The backstreets are cool in the shade but the sun can beat you without notice if staying too long in it. Sunblock is necessary. 

Woof!!

We decided it was a bit warm for a long walk so we decided to get back to the hotel and snag some more coffee. This would prove to be one of the most delightful hours I have spent on this planet. We sat in the garden section of the Restaurant under some big shady umbrellas and chilled in the delightful and gentle sea breeze that was kissing the Riviera coastline. Lenglui had by this time learned how to make great coffee at the restaurant - get the big cup, pour in one espresso, top it up with hot water and hot milk et voila! Magnificent cup of coffee. We went back for a second after checkout and parked ourselves in the outside open air section of the hotel restaurant. This proved most pleasant - the combination of Cannes sunshine and gentle Riviera breeze, visiting birds, warm but not hot sunshine warming the palms on Le Croisettes was just perfect. The light in the South of France is just exquisite. I have memories of pigeons scrapping for dropped food, Edna taking photos, me writing notes on the iPad, whispers of cars slowly trundling past, smell of herbs and pizza from the kitchen, and the only celebrity in sight being a Celebrity Cruise ship anchored in the Bay. Absolutely chilled, relaxing and delightful. To relive this, I would happily go back to the Carlton. 

We tore ourselves away from this idyllic setting and wandered to our appointed meeting place for direction, having retrieved our hand baggage from the Sirocco. It all got processed quite painlessly and we were pretty soon on the road and heading for Arles to meet the ship. There was a guide on the bus who talked for most of the time whilst most of the cruisers (myself included) tried to listen and take in all the detail about this area of France. It just does not get absorbed by me - some switch goes into neutral and phssssht straight in one ear, bypass the brain and gone. The countryside was pretty, with occasional vineyards and prospects of the sea over the hills. Lenglui dozed for most of the ride whilst I gazed out and watched the scenery flash by. 

Dear Lord I hope to return - one of the most pleasant hours of my life...

There was one brief stop en route for a swift tuna sandwich and a pee and the driver's obligatory rest and then back on the A8 for a punch through straight to Arles. The bus arrived at the dock at about 4pm and as we got off we got our first taste of the Mistral. This is a wind that whips down the mountains and along the river valley and is fast, fierce and whipsaws into the bones. No joke, this Mistral. We scrambled aboard the ship and into the lounge where we all did the Passport checkin and got the doorkeys to our cabin 215. As said, luggage was quick to get into the room and we unpacked and showered and headed off to the meet the captain and crew with the Prosecco and a toast to a safe and memorable cruise. There would prove to be a lovely view at sunset from the lounge of the bridge over the river - we would later learn that this was the famous Van Gogh Starry Night view. Very pretty. 

The cabin was surprisingly roomy. Our expectations of a cramped little cabin with little room for baggage generated by our Uniworld experience was totally destroyed by the size and roominess and airiness of the place. Hugely well designed space, bags all fit nicely under the two single beds, and we were able to pass each other easily round them. Good size fridge to store our booze and odd bits of food bought en route. And free wifi. Fantastic. Most impressed with the Avalon. 

The lovely CdP - all silk and chewy fruit

During the unpack, it was mutually agreed to open the CdP we had bought from the Cannes wine store. It was a Domaine Lucien Barrot et Fils 2011, a standard GSM with some Cinsault added. It was a lovely wine - very silky in the mouth and on the finish, though not as full bodied as most CdPs tasted. Faint floral and berry nose with first fruit and cherry mouth. Some cardamom notes and cassis. Wonderful mouth and finish. Think we paid about 50 Euro. Worth it. 

We then went to dinner which was quite tasty and was accompanied by a swift cruise around the estuary. I have little memory other than a most pleasant meal with tasty wines and chatting to an elderly chap from New Zealand who loved to cruise/ We would see him on and off over the remainder of the days, but he didn't seem to acknowledge us. Perhaps a bit Alzheimic? Not sure. But everyone seemed to know him, and he said hello back to everyone who said hello to him. Can't remember his name. We finished up and got back to the cabin and fell into bed. Good night Arles, see you in the morning. 

Cannes to Paris Avalon Cruise September 2017 - Day Three

Cannes to Paris Avalon Cruise September 2017 - Day Three

September 18, 2017

Again, not many photos from today. Weather a bit grey and didn't seem to be much to take... 

Carlton International Hotel, Cannes

Up and showered and cleaned teeth and packed and out for breakfast for a somewhat chill 8.30am. Looked a bit stiff, five euro appearing the cheapest for coffee, juice, and croissant with butter and jam so had a quick espresso at the railway station (actually wanted the dejeuner express for E2 but she misheard me). I then checked the Monoprix wine prices on the way back to Atlantis (no croissants there but rolls and sandwiches got) and bought a baguette at the boulangerie across from the hotel and had it for breakfast with the remains of the pate. I also figured to save some of both bread and pate in case the Lenglui  arrived a bit hungry after the flight. Which would prove so. Coffee is an addiction. Feel like shit all day when you don't have one in the morning, and poop like a champion when you do. I spent the rest of the morning writing notes and dozing on the bed as Cannes woke up to its Monday morning. Seem to be sleeping a lot for some reason. Still it clears the brain and hopefully makes for readable prose.

Checked out of Atlantis for about 11.30am, and had a most pleasant chat with Jean Michel, the most affable owner and operator of the Atlantis. He proved most considered; asked if I needed anything i.e. bottle of water. I declined, having taken some from the tap upstairs in my disposable tucked in the backpack. I commented on a beautiful table arrangement of roses and JM shared that his wife bought them daily at the market. It was their stamp and signature, fresh flowers at the hotel every day for them and the guests to enjoy. A very nice touch. I shared that I was meeting the Lenglui at the next hotel and he insisted that I take one of the roses for her. A delightful touch and gesture, which ensured where I would stay should I return. I do hope I will.

Out of the hotel for a fifteen minute trundle with the case along the Rue d' Antibes, turn right along Rue des Serbes at the end of which I crossed the Croisettes for a slow amble along the promenade. It seemed to offer easier and smoother trundling for the Orange Monster wheels. Get to a pedestrian crossing and straight into the Carlton. The day was turning a bit cool so there were not many stretched out on the private beaches. Though I did see a couple of bivouacers on one beach still asleep and a couple of street sleepers en route. 

I always get a sense of WTF when I step into a bigass hotel, and the Carlton proved no different. Still find it hard to believe that a scratchy kid is staying at somewhere like this. Still hard to believe, but still a great feeling. 

The Carlton itself is brilliant. Old vintage glamour from a different era, wonderfully maintained and manicured and spanking service. Just thinking of all the Hollywood royalty who had walked these floors - amazing. 

At the door, my bag got taken and Mr Doorman asked if I was Cruise (Oui) and directed me to the Avalon desk where I met Jean Luc (to be our Cruise Director) and a pretty blonde assistant who took my details. I said that Lenglui was en route with all the documents, which Jean Luc checked and said Oui, the plane had landed and advised for me to check in. Oui. Which I did. I got told that the room was ready so up I went but not before Jean Luc said he would call me 15 minutes before Lenglui would be arriving. Perfect, I could park the bag, have a quick wash and be ready to greet.

Which almost happened. Having got diverted by the restaurant menu and heading up to the room, she was already at Jean Luc's desk. So happy to see her. Took her up to the room where we caught up with each other's adventures over the previous three weeks. And she happily snacked on the Pate and bread and water.

The distracting Carlton Restaurant menu

We chilled for most of the afternoon in the magnificent room, lounging on the large very comfy bed, enjoying the great space of the nicely cool room. The bathroom was big and white, with big taps and good towels, though was initially missing some bath robes which came about ten minutes after we arrived. And five minutes later, room service came to check the mini bar with some sort of scanner, which seemed very high tech. The reason would subsequently become clear when we got our pre-cruise briefing later that afternoon. 

We ultimately got around to getting dressed for a stroll ahead of our pre cruise meeting with Jean Luc and took a slow amble along Croisettes, and stopping at some of the shops en route. Rain was threatening so we ducked into a wine store where we bought a CdP for the cabin and Lenglui reserved a caviar serving set for daughter's upcoming birthday in Sicily. Lenglui also had a chocolate ice cream which she said was very good. I had a little lick to confirm. 

We zipped back to the hotel ahead of the threatening rain to retrieve our ship papers from our room and then into a large meeting room ahead of the, er, meeting. The other Cruisers tootled in in their ones and twos and the room quickly filled with people who all had the "look" - that indefinable quality and confident air that says "I cruise". It's a combo of the dress, the walk, the keen and sharp yet open look in The Eye that says "seasoned". I presume I must have it too. We all found seats and got instructed by Jean Luc as to transfer procedures for the morrow. We were assigned a time and one of three buses which would leave with our luggage at 15 minute intervals - this was due to the narrowness of road fronting the hotel and regulations against buses parking up for long periods and consequently blocking the road. Fair enough. Jean Luc was clearly an experienced cruise director, peppering the details with wit and humour. Main point of the day - do not open the mini bar in the room. They are electronically tagged and smart and would bill you if you so much as moved one of the contents. Even if you tried to replace anything with something bought from the minimarket you would still get billed. We had been warned. Minibar was totally off limits. Wish they had also told that the Nespresso capsules were chargeable - the four Euro for the one capsule was a bit of a shock. Bloody French.

Restaurant at the Carlton International Cannes

Jean Luc finished up and out came bottles of popping Prosecco all of which were soundly wolfed by the Cruisers. I was first up (we having strategically parked ourselves at the back and near the drinks table) though I did pass glasses to some ladies who were hovering in a somewhat unsure manner. I can do the proper thing on occasion. We got chatting to Rod and spouse (forgot the name) from Perth who shared their travel horror of trying to fly some airline from Florence to Cannes which got cancelled, and opting to get a bus instead which landed them alone in some strange carpark with no idea how to get to their AirBnB accommodation and nothing in the way of calling taxi to get them there. They were also massively delayed and seemingly unable to contact the person who was waiting to let them into the room. Resident strangers heard their story and got their pickup car to drive them to the address. Their man had gone, so they found a hotel where the lady concierge found a room for them at another hotel. The massive kindness of strangers… it always heartens and gives confidence that whatever happens to this human race of ours, showing kindness to all that live whilst we live is ultimately all that matters. 

The excellent Prawn Risotto at the Carlton International

I gave them a suggestion of the Mantel for their dinner and the address and general direction. They had also seen the Brun seafood the evening before. Lenglui and I opted to eat at the hotel ahead of an early night for her jetlag. We were originally tempted by a wonderful sounding T-bone steak for two but opted for something lighter and parked in the bar for a glass of Provence white and rose to go with a delightful prawn risotto which was all lovely succulent seafood juice, salted rice and fantastically fresh and sweetly crunchy prawns. Easily as good as the previous night. Supped up the juice with the baguette and butter. Magnificent. Some olives and mixed nuts were gratis and perfect as nibbles. Almonds had a pepper salt roast on them which was yum. Up to the room for TV and bath and sleep. Good night. 

Cannes to Paris Avalon Cruise September 2017 - Day Two

September 17, 2017

Spent most of the afternoon laid up in bed, having made the mistake of starting the day without coffee and just stomping off on a walkabout of Cannes. Some days you totally forget that the system needs and expects its espresso coffee in the morning or else it will go into lockdown with headache and bodyache and total withdrawal symptoms just after lunchtime. It kicked in about 1 pm and lasted through till about 5pm. This one needed four panadol to assuage the banging head. Serious withdrawal. Must have figured I would find a coffee bar en route and forgot it was a Sunday. The Atlantis breakfast at Euro7 felt a bit stiff - actually, it wasn't that bad in comparison to the local environs. There you go. 

Gazebo and Sunday Market on the Promenade in Cannes

The morning itself was good. A gentle stroll right out of the Atlantis along the totally shaded Rue Antibes leads to the front where a flea market was in session in glorious sunshine. Little mooch among the stalls to see if any treasures were worth snapping up (there weren't - mostly art and ornaments). Kept walking along the front to get to the Old Town and the Cathedral. A testing walk up the hill to reach the museum and get some vista style photos of both Cannes east and Cannes west. Also stopped into the church where a Christening was going on. And photo taking of the Christening by tourists who would not be denied their selfies after that climb. Hmmm....  I lit my traditional candles for mum and dad and my auntie Dolly and slipped away.

Cannes West...

...and Cannes East

Back down the hill for a wonderful hour ambling about Le Suquet and the old town in which I literally bumped into the market. Just turned a corner and there it was, all bustle, noise, smell and colour of hugely fresh produce. Delightful. I bought some Provençal pate from Chez Dany et Jean Michel (0626951668) and some olive bread from a boulangerie on the outside corner of the market (Baguepi, which might be a chain as there is also one opposite the Gare) and headed back to Hotel Atlantis for lunch and panadols. The pate would also do for breakfast with a baguette (une flute pain ordinaire  for E1.10). The Olive bread was stunning, all dough and pull apart wonder and chew and full firm mouth. Real olives with pips too. Perfect with the firm and full pork terrine though the peppers did their usual gastronomic tricks with the alimentation. Excellent lunch - I felt like a Frenchman. 

Off the bone Spanish ham

Oysters at E2 a slurp

"Yooo want mai photo, yooo mus' pay eeen thee Spanish 'am. Yaisss..."

If photos could smell...  meat, fish, cheese, bread...

My lunch and tomorrow's breakfast - Country French pate with baguette. Doesn't get much better...

On the way back to Atlantis, I also decided to find the Carlton hotel so as to gauge how long to allocate for the transfer on the morrow. This must have been what killed me for the afternoon, getting all footsore and headache. En route I stopped to watch some boules being played on the main Promenade opposite the Festival Hall and the Yachting Centre. Here, there were lots of boats seemingly being sold with lots of wealth and beauty looking earnestly like they were interested. Further walking took me past the Palais des Festivals Centre where all the handprints of the famous actors and actresses could be seen on the sidewalk. On along the front park and Palm walkway then crossing the road to arrive at the wedding cake Carlton International Hotel. I would be staying here with the Lenglui for the following two nights as part of the Cruise package we had bought. There were lots of high end shops and shoppers on both sides and behind the Carlton and a lot of high end cars slowly crawling past. It was a two lane road with at least four lanes of cars. Moral - don't drive in Cannes. Not many taxis or buses. I took some photos in the glorious sun then walked back along the Boulevard de la Croisette turning right on Rue des Serbs which took me up to the Rue d'Antibes and the Atlantis and the necessary panadols and bed.

Rue Menardier

Table 22 at Mantel

During my stroll in the Old Town, I had found my dinner venue and reserved for 7pm. A previous Internet search for best eats in Cannes found the Telegraph picks from two months previous which I figured would be up to date. It told of Table 22 at Mantel as a venue whilst TripAdvisor said it was unmissable. Left the Atlantis at about 5.30pm and gently strolled along the famous (and mostly closed shops of) Rue Meynardier to get back to Le Suquet and still arrived an hour early so I just strolled around the area. The main street is all restaurants with so much variety in eats and dishes and all of it looking and sounding wonderful. Though it did all feel a bit tourist centric. Maybe worth a return to Cannes to hunt down the really authentic and good stuff. I walked back through the now closed market and found a Bar for a sit down and a couple of glasses of Rose du Maison plonk to contemplate the day. 

Spent thirty minutes guzzling Rose and watching Les Frogs inside here

It was a slow five minute walk from the bar to Table 22 and I arrived way too early. So I continued along the Rue St Antoine just to kill time. It was pretty much cheek by jowl restaurants all along and up the hill. Most were in various stages of opening, though some looked as if they had been closed for some time. The top of the road opened out into a square, with some more bar style operations on one side and what looked like a theatre space on the other with a car park. Blazing sun in the eyes quickly turned me back around and retrace my steps down the Rue and into the Table 22 at Mantel. 

As said, the Table 22 got praise from the Daily Telegraph "Places to Eat in Cannes" and had turned up in various "where to eat in Cannes" internet searches, so figured should be worth a shot. Pretty unassuming from the outside (and I KNOW I took photos which I cannot now find - arghhh!!) it was pleasant enough inside. The menu was getting set up as I strolled up and got greeted and seated by the pretty waitress. I had previously decided to have the degustation - give a sense of the tastes of the place. For some reason I didn't photograph the menu and I don't recall there being one on the table, so notes will have to fill the gaps. The ambience was good, lot of modern art and somewhat subdued lighting as the sun went down. There was an entrance area with tables and an inner room for larger tables. I got seated at a table for two and set for one about halfway in the place facing the door which was fine with me. The food would come briskly. Not many there when I arrived, but it started to fill quite quickly. 

Lovely art on (I think) the bus station at the foot of Le Suquet

The amuse was fried onion and olive on brioche which was nicely balanced in salt and sugar terms and a pleasant soft wheat whack to line the stomach. The wine being served was the House Rose from Provence which was clean citrus frisky and a balanced class above the plonk downed earlier - this was steel clean rather than barrel rustic and with a hint of peach in the strawberry pop mouth. And at about the same price. Lesson learned - don't drink the house wine at the bar - stick with the beer. 

Interior of Table 22

First course out were the amazing Zucchini Flowers. These were delightful soft bites in clean batter that would put any Japanese tempura to a stiff test - absolutely belting. Though my notes say the things were lacking some bite with not much initial taste on the flower; though this did improve when the hit of salt kicked in to supercharge some lemon mayo. The presentation was excellent, the whole lot of them speared onto a spike and towering like Pisa on a plate. I also remember seeing these being fried and sold at the market earlier, but for some reason decided not to eat. Next time. The Zucchini Flowers were absolutely delightful soft bites in batter that would put any Japanese tempura to a stiff test - absolutely belting. I also remember seeing these being fried and sold at the market earlier, but for some reason decided not to eat. Next time. The house Red was a Cab Sauv from Provence (don't have the name) - young, light yet chewy tannin but still pretty even. Beefy in the mouth, some cassis, earthy and felt like good value. 

Zucchini Flowers and salad with Rose and bread. In Cannes some more. Yum.

This was accompanied by a Spinach and Rocket salad with vinaigrette of which I have no memory except it clashing with the Rose. Of course.  Service is brisk and friendly - ish. Brusque would be closer to the mark. Is this a French word? Sounds like it, non? They were very kind listening to my attempts to converse with them in French. Though all their replies were in English. Bloody French…

Next out was the risotto which came out scattered with fried thin prawn skins. Texture was excellent and not giving that bloating feel one occasionally gets from the rice. The dish had an overall clean salt feel and finish which felt a shade overpowering toward the end. But it all seemed to balance out with the wine and ultimately it became a very tasty risotto. I had opted to try the house Red with it which was a Cab Sauv from Provence (don't have the name) - young, light yet chewy tannin but still pretty even. Beefy in the mouth, some cassis, earthy and felt like good value. Gave good whack to the rice. 

Seafood Risotto

The Creme Brulee to finish came out on a hot plate though itself was nicely cold - I don't remember Creme Brulee coming out on a hot plate before so a question whether this was normal practice. Notwithstanding, it was good - that perfect moment the spoon breaks through the hard candy crust to dip into the milky cream and up to the mouth… absolute yum heaven. Tres bon, tres bon, tres bon!!

Creme Brulee - very tasty

22 Mantel is lovely. Ambience, service, food - it all works together very nicelyFelt very nice at the end of it all. Reposed - that good feeling after a good meal when everything seems in its place and all has blended into a perfect moment. 

Mantel Table 22

22, rue Saint Antoine

Le Suquet

06400 Cannes 

+33 (0)4 93 39 13 10

info@restaurantmantel.com

www.restaurantmantel.com

On the return walk along the street, it did seem that most were filled with tourists so perhaps could be a bit difficult to find the authentic. But on the return walk after dinner along the Promenade, there was a seafood place called Brun which was doing serious business. It was totally full and there was a long queue waiting to get seated. And the seafood looked amazing. Next time in Cannes is sorted. Seafood by the sea. If it has not been overtaken by a kebab house. Such a difference between here and the Rue de la Gare; pretty people street versus survival street. Experience suggests once the kebab sellers get a firm hold then they expand and grow. And the Cannes that I love will disappear. 

Walking back to the hotel, I got nicely spanked by a cool autumn breeze whooshing along the Rue d'Antibes. A pleasant though brisk way to end the night, though it told of winter chills to come. Though not so soon. Up into the Atlantis room and straight to sleep. Good day. Eventually. 

Cannes to Paris Avalon Cruise September 2017 - Prologue and Day One

Prologue

This was the first part of a two month odyssey covering three weeks in Wales, and near on three weeks in France on a Cruise from Cannes to Paris with a few days in the city. This was immediately followed  by a two week driving tour of Sicily with the Lenglui and daughter and family and friends entourage which has yet to be written up. All the notes and photos are there, just needs a rewrite and the fire in the brain to do it.

Anyhow, much of the posts are impressions of the various towns and places and not a great deal about food and wine. The restaurants "done" were Table 22 at Mantel (Day Two), Carlton International Restaurant (Day Three), the Avalon World Dinner (Day Seven), Le Nord by Paul Bocuse in Lyon (Day Nine) and the rest of the food and wine being on the ship (outside of some delightful bottles bought in Arles). Post cruise and Sicily will have more on the food and wine. 

The short version is that it was a most pleasant cruise with some brilliant weather and experiences. Hugely relaxing and well put together - highly recommend Avalon cruises and cruise director Jean Loup in particular. Not visually stunning in terms of the passing scenery, but the food tastings and care shown on the cruise were of standard. My only other river cruise was Uniworld on the Douro on the Princess Isabel; Avalon's Affinity was a way superior ship in terms of space and facilities. 

Saturday 16th September 2017 - Day One

Don't seem to be any photos of this day for some reason. I do recall taking some on the bus from Nice to Cannes, but I also recall they were pretty bad so perhaps they got trashed. See if they turn up.

Little bit of backstory - prior to all of what follows, I had been in Cardiff for about 17 days staying with my Sis. My reason for returning home was to renew a passport and spend time with her and rousting about some old haunts. Which was huge fun for me, but probably quite boring for everyone else - click here to read if you think you might like me mostly reminiscing about my first thirtyish years growing up in the Welsh Capital City.

I left the homestead in Grangetown when the cab arrived at 8.15am on the dot and had a doorstep farewell to my Sister. It was a bit early to go to the Sophia Gardens and her car would in no way be able to take my Orange Monster case. Fair enough. The Cabbie was of middle eastern descent and had been living in Penarth for over thirty years. He talked about shite wages and no motivation in the jobs today and the lack of pubs in Grangetown due to it having become mostly Muslim and that pensions have not kept up with inflation so the elderly buy booze from supermarkets rather than find a pub. And the nighttimes around the city centre are now apparently a bit iffy. My first thought was "what pubs in Grangetown?" they having shrunk from near on forty to about two - the Grange and the Cornwall. Sad reflection - pubs strangled by the Islamic faithful not being able to enjoy a pint. 

The weather forecast said there was a 10% chance of rain. Should have taken that bet because a light persistent shower greeted my arrival at the Sophia Gardens bus stand. I parked under the bus shelter and sat on my Charity Shop walk seat cane until the driver called us aboard at 9am.

Was a ninety minute drive to Bristol airport, and the weather perked up as we crossed the second bridge. The first Severn was just about visible in the misty rain. Goodbye Wales - hope to see you again. The bus wound its way through some tidy towns before pulling in to disgorge people near the departure hall. My first time at Bristol Airport. It all looked quite modern and friendly - lots of glass to let in the natural light. Couple of shops to while away some time - think there was a Marks and Sparks Food Store there packed with sandwiches and fruit. I parked myself in a seat to pass the time to check in and read about Arles and Avignon in the guide book. Bag checkin time was noon for two pm flight. I do get anal about leaving plenty of time between connections - very fearful of missing them. I like at least an hour, and this time I had definitely got that. It also gave me the chance to check directions and routes to the hotel in Cannes. Here, I had taken photos on my handphone of Google Map directions to the hotels in Cannes, Paris and Sicily as backstops in case we got totally lost on the road - as it was, it would only be for Cannes that they would get used. Still, better be prepared, eh? I thought it was a useful backstop in case there was a need for a roadmap. 

Noon came around and I sauntered to the check in via the bathroom and filled up the bottle with drinking water. The scale said I was 300g over the 20kg limit but nothing was said by the check in lady so through it went. Spent the next two days wondering whether Easyjet would dock my credit card. I don't think it did. There was still some time before the need to get to the gate so I parked up at a coffee bar eating a bag of crisps and some sandwiches made by my Sis and finishing off the remains of the water in what would soon be a discarded leaking bottle - it having embarrassingly discharged much of its contents in the back of the aforesaid taxi.

Got through security quite painlessly thanks to great instruction from the gate staff. Found a seat and parked up waiting for the gate number to be announced. Watching people, all seemed easy. Not many Muslims at the airport, even in the staff. Hmmmm... Unspoken bias perhaps? Compared to somewhere like Heathrow, this airport was like a seaside village, totally untouched by the finger of migrated people. It was good to hear some of the old west country "Brizzle" accent - memory of a different time. 

The screens kept saying that the plane was continually getting delayed - result was the 13.55 flight finally took off about 16.00. Brilliant. Spent the time in the waiting area reading newspapers and drinking water. 

The flight finally got called, we all boarded the plane, and it finally took off. No reason given why late. Dozed a bit on the plane, read a bit before suddenly we were landing. It was about 6pm French time. Luggage was second off the carousel. Opted to go for the E22 bus to Cannes cos the original plan to walk to the apparently nearby Railway station looked like it would be sweaty and rough on the expensive to replace luggage wheels. The research on transit to Cannes from Nice Airport paid off. The tickets for all buses get purchased from a tiny ticket office out of the airport exit, and you need to scour the different stops to check which bus you need. Got the ticket, found the stop, bus was there in ten minutes and on time (about 7pm). Looked like I was the only one going to Cannes from the Airport. So far so good. Luggage got stowed and we were quickly on the road. It was all familiar from four years previous, the signs, the turn offs, the tolls. And the light. I had forgotten the perfect light of the riviera. Blues and greens and dusty Browns all meld together in a seamless Riviera vista. Felt like a homecoming - it was good to be back on the Riviera. 

I had already internet booked a hotel near the Railway Station so as to easily wheel the bag there off the train. I would stay at the Atlantis Hotel on rue 24 Aout for two nights before wheeling the bag to the Carlton International to join Lenglui off the BA plane who would get bus transferred there from Nice Airport. Got it at 55 Euro a night which felt pretty okay. Of course, all this was now a bit fluid since it involved the bus stopping at or near La Gare. I asked the driver in poor French if the bus stopped near the railway station. His reply was fast and in an accent that was quite large, but I caught the word "terminee" and rejoiced. My hotel was close to where the bus would stop. Indeed it would turn out to be a one minute stroll along the Place de la Gare to the rue 24 Aout. I overshot it first time, but a check on my Google Map showed the correct street and the hotel sign was large on the wall. 

The bus stopped at the Railway Station (about 7.45pm), but it all looked different from my previous visit in September 2013. Lenglui and I had taken a train to Cannes from further up the coast and I remembered less marble and more spanky coffee shops. I also remembered less Arabian style kebab houses that seemed to be situated every second store on the side facing the station. You were spoiled for choice - if you like kebabs. 

The Hotel Atlantis has a great location for anyone arriving by train or bus, being on one of the streets off the main Place de la Gare road that runs past the Station. A pleasant homely and somewhat seafaring reception gives way to a warren of rooms on the upper level - I was way back somewhere and didn't quite recognise the street that the window overlooked. Basic bed, desk, space to hang clothes, TV on the wall, narrow bathroom. There was a minibar which kept the water and other bits cool (I rarely buy from minibars - better to hunt down the local minimarket). I was alone, and two in here would have been a squeeze luggage wise; as it was I was able to park the orange monster on one side of the bed and sleep in the other. It's not a startling hotel, but at fifty euro for a clean bed and shower in the location it was then I would definitely go back. Got a bit noisy about two a.m. on the street though. Bloody French. 

Hotel Atlantis

4 Rue Du 24 Aout

06400 Cannes

+33 4 93 39 18 72

www.cannes-hotel-atlantis.com

hotel.atlantis@wannado.fr  or hotel.atlantis@orange.fr

The check in at the Atlantis Hotel was a bit long due to French manners and the traditional no respect for the time or consideration of others. But it was all friendly and no rush on my part. All was seamless, everything having been prepaid. Got the wifi password and a photocopy of facilities, took the elevator up the one floor, dumped the bags in the non descript but cosy room and went off on a hunt for some food and water. Nothing looked appetising along the streets - either Bistro and expensive or Arabian and kebabs. Ended up at a Monoprix store that was just closing (about 8.30pm) and bought two Apple jam croissants and a salad sandwich with a bottle of Evian and back to the room to load up the wifi, turn on the TV and clamber into bed. I had made it back to Cannes in one piece. 

Burgundy and The French Riviera (6 of 12) - Cocoon, Cannes

Cocoon signboard

Cocoon

18, rue Bivouac Napoleon, Cannes

Lunch

Everyone else wanted to get off early to Cannes and visit the islands of Ile St Marguerite and / or Ile St Honorat. Lenglui and I took the lazy option and had a leisurely breakfast of fresh croissants I bought from the village before a bus ride into the town of Cagnes-sur-Mer to get the train to Cannes.

Cannes is lovely. Great feel about the whole place - laid back, wealth that is a little faded but friendly and not ostentatious. Very pleasant to wander the streets in the shade. Cute shops in both the Old and New Town areas which were staffed by mostly European natives - didn't get that sense of tacky tourist junky shops manned by people of South Asian or Oriental descent as one gets in much of Italy and the UK. And it was clean. Streets were pretty spotless. 

The Ham and Cheese Salad. Well tasty.

Got to the lunch venue early and parked ourselves with a coffee and some water. Cocoon specialties were the big salads - various types of cheese with Serrano ham which duly got ordered. Not bad and disgustingly healthy. Lots of it and washed down with non alcoholic water which made a pleasant and welcome change from the boozy lunches of the past week or so. Young staff, one from Ireland. They had a board on which they were pinning notes from around the world. I gave them a new RM10 note and they took our photo. Fun and cheerful and light and breezy. A shade stiff pricewise perhaps, but this is Cannes. Their Facebook page shows they seem to be doing well. Nice sunny memory. 

Where exactly are we?

A quick walk through some of the old town would lead us back to where the car was parked, so that became the route. The old town is a maze of small streets full of more knick knack stores and some amazing meat and cheese places. Well shaded and with lots to maintain interest, it made for a lazy meander back. We stopped at a wine bar for a livener whilst the others went off photo shooting. It's easy to see why Cannes is favoured by the beautiful people and we less than perfect can only come and gape in wonder and dream of how life must be for the favoured and the visually blessed. There were some absolutely stunning ladies walking the main street. Young, shaped, perfect hair and sunglasses and shaking the hip with the walk. Yes. I do like Cannes. 

Back to the car and a lingering drive back to the vllla via the long route through town. In retrospect this was good in that we got to see parts of the land we'd otherwise miss. Got back to the villa and I don't remember what food we had or where we had it. Think maybe it was bread, ham and cheese. And wine. Slept like a pig.

Cannes - where the Fat Cats hang out

Heading back to the van through the Old Town

Main thoroughfare back through the Old Town

Our view of St Paul-de-Vence from the Villa