IWFS at Dewakan - Best dinner this year!

Dewakan interior

April 21st 2016

Have to say I was initally apprehensive about attending this one. Foodie friend Julian's blog posting on his visit put the fear of perdition about the journey to get there in me. Though his enthusiastic reaction to the food was heartening. And Jeremy was championing the restaurant and numbers were a bit low. And when Lenglui said we would probably never otherwise go there, then the deal was sealed.

But O Lordy, what a deal. Dewakan ticked all the foodie boxes on the page. Ambience, service, food - absolutely stunning. Best event of the IWFS season. Will DEFINITELY go back with foodie friends who want to know what Malaysian chefs can do with Malaysian produce. Darren Teoh is a total star. 

Dewakan has been making waves in the KL foodie universe for quite some time. Frequently cited as Kuala Lumpur’s most exciting restaurant to date, the MIGF 2015 brochure (I think - can't find it now) holds it to be "an ingredient focused restaurant that reflects the bounty of produce from Malaysia. The cuisine is driven by the use of local and indigenous ingredients in the most imaginative way possible. Every aspect of the restaurant has been curated to deliver an enjoyable experience to our guests with as much emphasis to the service as it is to the food."

It is essentially an academy for future cooks and students keen to get into the hospitality sector, hence its location in a Private University. But it does open to the public for dinner from Thursday to Saturday to let the staff and students get some real world experience. It also does lunch Monday to Friday. The restaurant is helmed by Darren Teoh who is an avid believer in the beauty of local ingredients. Seems he began his career as a cook in Les Amis Singapore (No. 13 on Asia’s 50 Best Restaurant List 2016) and recently moved back to Malaysia to teach culinary arts in KDU University College Sdn Bhd. During this time at the school, he has authored "Redefinition", a collection of Malaysian dishes reinterpreted using modern culinary techniques. He was also briefly attached to Restaurant Amador (3 Michelin stars) in Langen, Germany and Restaurant Noma (2 Michelin stars and World’s Best Restaurant by Restaurant Magazine for 2010, 2011, 2012 and 2014). 

The Dewakan blurb also says that the team there is obsessed with developing a restaurant where guests return home with great memories. I usually get a bit skeptical when I see what looks like romantic seduction - when I see it I usually find that the experience rarely matches such hyperbole. On this occasion, though, my skepticism was wonderfully unfounded. This one was a total event. 

It was a bit of a drive into the unknown to get here, but Waze performed like a trouper and got us there with little fuss or wrong turnings. I had recce'd the place on the Google Maps in the office and got an idea of where it was, though without the Waze the final few turns to try and arrive would eventually have killed me. Waze rocks! It told us to avoid Federal and take the E20 toll road. Only downside with the Waze is the apprehension you get when it goes quiet for a long time. We know that this means that all is mostly well, but perhaps a bit of reassurance would be… reassuring. Still took about 45 minutes to an hour to get there. 

Once in the KDU University complex, Jeremy had stuck IWFS signs on the fences leading to the car park. The serious looking guard at the gate turned out to be totally unintelligible in terms of what he was trying to tell us, but we smiled and he smiled and opened the gate and as we went straight we saw the Dewakan directly ahead of us.  There was an outside section where cars had already parked so we just followed suit. I think the Guard wanted us to park in the covered area - perhaps he thought it was going to rain. Nice man.

Sporting a glass frontage which looked out onto an open area, Dewakan has a classically modern ambience and feel about it. Dark oak floors with soft but sufficient lighting on neutral grey chairs and walls and with easy space between the sheeted tables.The kitchen is at one end with a serving area through which all the preparation can be seen, and a bar area at the other where those who had presumably come straight from the office were sucking down the Pol Roger NV with a vengeance. When I see this I know it's going to be good - people were in the mood to party. On a Thursday night some more.   Here we go again...

"What's he doing?" "Something cheffy." 

Some appetizers came round which were tasty enough, though there was one green leaf offering that had been shocked by something into frozen crispness and was absolutely amazing. This must have been the thing that Julian wanted to leap onto the tables and sing to the heavens about. It was something else. It came with a dip which was also brilliant. Only problem was that the darn thing kept breaking in the dip and I ended up eating the leaf and gunk Banana Leaf finger style. Most excellent, though hardly IWFS. So it goes - never stand on ceremony when the food will not allow one to do so.

The Willy Doctor and...  uh...  friend. Yes.

There was also a spring roll of raw potato and radish which bit nicely into the cheek and tongue. And it was all belter with the Pol Roger. I seem to have been supping a lot of this at various parties over the past few weeks or so. Must be a lot of in in the market at the moment, and at a fair price. Have to investigate - it is a crispily pleasant drop of fizz. 

We got instructed to sit down and get addressed by President David who thanked Jeremy, May and me for our contributions to the evening's festivities. We were sat with an IWFS newbie and our good friend the Willy Doctor, one of our resident urologists now making his celebrity name on the Friday BFM afternoon radio show. We normally have a quiet bet on how long it takes from the moment of getting seated with the good doctor to when the subject gets around to the penis. Normally takes about eight minutes - tonight it was three. It WAS going to be a good evening.

The bread came out with butter bedded on a leaf we were later told was cashew and which gave a bitter hit when chewed. Can't remember the butter, but the fizz needed some carbo and it was time to shut up and drink and enjoy the combo.

First out was the Blue Mackerel which looked a bit small on the plate and smelled a bit fishy on the nose, though it was full on flavour in the mouth and with good bite and chew. Nice touch of sharp freshness added by the Ulam Raja and Pomelo. The flowers added bright prettiness and lovely colour to the visual aspect and were pleasantly crisp in the mouth. Good engagement of all the senses on this dish, especially if one ate the flowers with the fingers. 

Cured Mackerel, Ulam Raja, Pomelo, Local Flowers 

Getting paired with the clean and lean Lafon made sense. Squeaky on the cheeks and throat and understated on the finish, with soft clean pears in the mouth. For some reason the flowers from the first course seemed to be strangely repeating with the wine. This was a most odd experience, like burping a bouquet of petals. There you go - only in Malaysia. 

Course 2 was the braised Aubergine which came out looking like a chunk of moss you might find  stuck to the root of a tree on the roadside. It looked like green dirt, putting me in mind of something you might find at Akelare or Mugaritz in the Basque. Tastewise, it came across like a delicately textured dim sum dish of fried onion in the mouth (the aubergine in the mushroom stock), with brown and white garlic sauces forming the visual yin and yang of the dish and giving salt and heat. Never did find out what the crunchy green dirt was, though the menu says Jackfruit seeds. It felt like fried peas that had been frozen and crushed. There was a delicate cobweb of glaze strung across the top which seemed to evaporate on contact with my breath on it. 

Aubergine braised in Mushroom Stock, Jackfruit Seeds, Black Bean Sauce and Garlic Emulsion 

Yet there was something essentially and quintessentially Malaysian about it. It had that dim sum feel of Cantonese cuisine but using the Brinjal and mushroom seemed to bring that vegetal earthiness you get at the Banana Leaf stall. And the green crunch gave a Rojak texture. This one captured the essence of each and fused them together into something that transcended the individual elements. Somehow encapsulating all the major cuisines into a single combo. Brilliant, brilliant. 

None of this sadly did much for the wine -  the gungey mushroom aubergine seemed to bring out an oily note to the Lafon. Not a great match, but the wine was still lovely enough to cut through. Though it did seem to run out quite quickly - a call for an extra glass was met with a report that it had all gone. Barely had a glass and a half - someone somewhere must have been sucking it down. Same with some of the later wines - didn't feel like there was quite enough before getting told it had all gone. Seems that 32 people drank 40 plus bottles, so either there was indeed enough or some tables had a better time than others. Couldn't really complain - both wine and food were excellent so perhaps an excess of one over the other might have upended the balance. Is just that you always feel you're missing out when there's not quite enough booze to satisfy. Like someone else is getting all the love. 

The Stonier (as memory serves) had been decanted and showed a lovely classic Pinot nose and beautiful cherry pop and pepper mouth and finish. The balance was excellent, as was the acidity, length and finish. Eight years in bottle, it was drinking well with a silkiness and ease that we don't see too often. Beautiful wine. 

The waiting staff came out with a spoon and chopsticks ahead of the third course, which also somehow seemed to underline the desire to encapsulate Malaysian cuisine in its diverse totality. You don't often get changes of mixed cuisine fighting irons across a multi course meal. 

The third dish was the noodles which had amazing texture - felt like biting through octopus legs. The broth was brilliant - a fantastic zip of chives and pepper with a lovely blend of tastes and textures across the dish and a great sense of umami about this one. Lot of chives here, whose texture suggested they had been lightly toasted. Quite herbal. Mixed with the daisy fresh solid chunk of Prawn, it was Ipoh Hor Fun but amplified into loud bold taste. Again, one of those where you absolutely KNOW you have had this Soul Food before and many times but not in this context and not with this delicacy or sense of the essential. Perfect seasoning. My note at the time was "dam fantastic, dam fantastic." Could have slurped this one all night. Now for THIS one I might sing and dance on the tables…   so good.

Steamed Ming Prawns, Brined Radish, Dried Vegetables, Cold Prawn Broth 

At this point, I began to notice how good and efficient was the standard of the waiting service. So far it had been quietly polite and unobtrusive and it was only when I saw a new napkin folded on the table after a bathroom break that it registered. This level of attention you tend not to expect in Malaysia. When I asked a question about one of the ingredients, our serving friend was quick and knowledgeable in the response. Seems they cleared from the left side which I was advised was the proper side to so do. There you go - learning all the time. One point of critique - they did not pour wine for the ladies first. Well, they ARE trying to be Malaysian, no?

I also noticed that the food seemed to come out all at the same time and in pretty quick succession time following the plate clearance. Chef clearly has a tight lid on the kitchen. 

Dish Four was the Smoked Pike Conger, Custard, Fermented Long Beans Relish, Roasted Okra, and Clams Foam. This dish seemed to give off an almost deconstructed Japanese feel, kind of like a whole Bento lunch crammed into a single dish. But without the rice.  The Pike felt steamed and had a full on Tilapia chew and whack in the belly. There was a Tau Foo feel on the mushroom, and a good vegetal hit from the Okra whilst the custard gave it that chawan mushi egg custard feel. The tastes melded well whilst the belly could not complain about the fullness of it all. And the Thai Basil leaves were genius, giving a sweet soft fire and herbal hit to the whole thing. Perhaps for me a question over the clam foam - it did give some good air to the dish but for some reason I got a duck hit. Perhaps it was me, but there did seem to be some clash going on and the clams were in the forefront. Good dish on the whole, though. Very filling and well tasty. Got a double wow in the notes.

Smoked Pike Conger, Custard, Fermented Long Beans Relish, Roasted Okra, Clams Foam 

The Stonier was also being paired with the Pike. I have no notes on the pairing. Lenglui kindly let me see off the remains of her Lafon which had retained its spritzy clean feel in the glass. Very nice. 

The immediate reaction to the duck breast was "ducky" - that nose and mouthfeel that suggests a bit gamey and farmyard - but this duckiness faded after the first bite. Lovely chunk of duck meat and delightfully roasted. The Rillette was equally excellent - great texture, and seasoning and reminiscent of the big beefy meatballs we would get at the Cardiff Indoor Market when I was a kid - meat, fat, salt and pepper and oozing taste. Fantastic - love it when the tastes take you back in time. Though I would have liked some bread and butter to add some fat and counter the slight dryness which the blood sauce did not quite seem to address. [Note - when I was a kid these meatballs had a name - faggots. I would have used it in the text but I recognise some people are sensitive to its use. Shame - in this context, for me it's the absolute descriptor I associate with the taste - they were brilliant with tinned peas and vinegar and gravy. There you go. Strange how some words gain a dissociative meaning over time totally at odds with their original understanding].

Roast Duck Breast, Duck Leg Rillette, Beetroots, "Blood" Sauce 

I had reservations when I saw the Marimar Pinot being dug out for the dinner. This was a massive full on chew-and-spit-pips wine and roared like a bear when we had it with lamb about three years back at the Saujana. But on the night it was a belter - still full in the mouth, but far more in balance and with lovely pepper and a range of textures through the drinking process. Fading slightly, and still with a slight barnyard tang on the nose, but ultimately power and class and so good to have drunk it now. The fullness of the wine meant it stood up well to the chunky rich and tasty Rillette and the tannins cut the Duck breast purines perfectly. Good match. 

Dessert was Gula Melaka which paired slightly warm Pulut ice cream with soft coconut to create a wonderful sensation of the freshest coconut flesh. I got a slight hit of Toddy, that sweet smelly hooch made from fermented coconut which, when paired with the meringue and marquiese, produced a wonderful airy crunch and bite with a boozy coconut rasp. Wow. 

Gula Melaka Marquise, Sour Meringue, Pulut Ice Cream

Chef Darren and team came out to take a bow and photos. I had a quick chat, though others were very keen to get selfied with him. Clear passion for the use of local procuce in the creations and pushing the creations in terms of technique and combinations. His parting shot to me was "keep spreading the word." Any way I can, Chef, any way I can...   Save your pennies for this one - it will be worth it. There is a wine list, though if you are as fussy as we are at the IWFS you will want to take your own. Crisp spicy whites with a cracking Pinot for the duck will do you. Kudos to the Kiwi for his choices in this one. 

Dewakan staff with Chef Darren Teoh (right)

Chef Teoh clearly has culinary roots in Chinese cuisine yet his grasp of quintessential Malaysian tastes coupled with his ability to isolate and infuse them into the predominantly Malaysian produce based creations I find to be quite brilliant. There ARE quintessential Malaysian tastes across all the cuisines you can find here, and Chef having found a way to showcase them makes this a truly unique Malaysian dining experience. Fine Malaysian Cuisine dining. At last. 

Chef Darren Teoh with Dato' Jeremy Diamond, IWFS

One of the dinners of the year - actually of the last few years. Total standout in terms of memorable ambience, service, food preparations and tastes, and paired wines and company. Absolutely memorable across all boxes. Do go there if you get the chance. Especially if someone else is driving.

Thank you Dewakan - get you a double ARNIE - I'll be back - more than once.

DEWAKAN

Lower Ground Floor
KDU University College, Utropolis Glenmarie
Jalan Kontraktor U1/14, Seksyen U1,
40150 Shah Alam, Selangor, Malaysia
 +60355650767

Website: http://www.dewakan.my
Email: dewakan@kdu.edu.my

Visit us on Facebook

OPERATING HOURS

Lunch: Mon to Fri – 12 Noon to 2:30pm
Dinner: Thur to Sat – 7pm to 9pm
Closed on Sundays and certain public holidays.

For Phone Reservations:
Monday to Friday only @
10am to 12pm, and 3pm to 5pm only.

Farewell Milky Ice Lollies

THE 6 COURSE MENU

Appetizers

Aperitif - Pol Roger Brut Reserve

01 BLUE MACKEREL

Cured Mackerel, Ulam Raja, Pomelo, Local Flowers 

Heretier Lafon Vire Cleese 2013

02 BRAISED AUBERGINE 

Aubergine braised in Mushroom Stock, Jackfruit Seeds, Black Bean Sauce and Garlic Emulsion 

Heretier Lafon Vire Cleese 2013

03 HOME MADE NOODLE 

Steamed Ming Prawns, Brined Radish, Dried Vegetables, Cold Prawn Broth 

Stonier Pinot Noir Reserve 2008

03 PIKE CONGER 

Smoked Pike Conger, Custard, Fermented Long Beans Relish, Roasted Okra, Clams Foam 

Stonier Pinot Noir Reserve 2008

05 DUCK 

Roast Duck Breast, Duck Leg Rillette, Beetroots, "Blood" Sauce 

Marimar Estate Pinot Noir "Don Miguel Vineyard La Masia" 2006

06 GULA MELAKA 

Gula Melaka Marquise, Sour Meringue, Pulut Ice Cream

THE WINES

Pol Roger Champagne NV

This great wine is distinguished by much more than its links with Winston Churchill. The mid palate weight may come from a generous use of reserve wines yet the lemony core and brisk fine bubbles continue to make this a very fine and  classy Grand Marque champagne.

Hertier Lafon  Vire Cleesse 2013

This widely sought after Macconais Chardonnay is well integrated in its fruit, minerality and subtle oak.  From Wine Advocate 90 points Oct 2014 ” The 2013 Vire-Clesse has an utterly charming nose that seems more finished than the others, with fine tension and focus. The palate is very well-balanced with fine acidity. This comes over as being very precise and poised.”

Wine Enthusiast 90 points

Stonier Pinot Noir Reserve, Mornington Peninsula 2008 

This wine pulled from deep in our cellars is crafted by the renowned Mornington Peninsula producer with Burgundian nuances and evident maritime influences Vines date back to the late 70s. Savoury notes will delight Pinot lovers in this evolved wine. A subtle Pinot for sure, with fruit, but not overpowered. There are layers of flavour over a solid back drop of oak with pretty aromas and tastes structured around a raspberry and cherry core.

Marimar Estate Pinot Noir "Don Miguel Vineyard La Masia" 2006

“The color is a beautiful garnet, classic Russian River - as is the fruit, loaded with black cherry flavors. There's mocha in the nose and perfectly balanced hints of elegant oak, which contributes a rich texture. The mouthfeel is round and engaging, classic Pinot Noir, with a note of lively spice at the end. The finish is long and the wine shows great aging potential. Alcohol 14.1% bv. (From Winemaker’s notes)

"This vineyard, in the cool Green Valley part of Napa, continues to produce outstanding, ageworthy Pinot Noirs of distinction. The 2006 is a large, powerful wine, distinctly Californian, packed with cherry, cranberry, cola and spice flavors that are immature in their fresh jamminess. But with a dramatic tannin-acid structure, and a just-right touch of new French oak, it will improve in the cellar. Best after 2010." (Wine Enthusiast 93/100)

Brilliant Jolly with IWFS in Penang January 2014

Our IWFS KL had decided it was time for an expedition and sample some food outside the walls of KL city. So it was determined that a tour of Penang was necessary and it fell to Li Dong to organise, given that her work took her to Penang quite often. Twenty of us signed up. We were to make our own ways to the E&O Hotel where Li Dong had secured a brilliant rate for us. If you're gonna do something, do it in style cos it's only gonna get more expensive...

Friday January 10 2014

Lenglui and I had decided to drive to Penang and started off from KL at 8am with coffee and steamed buns at the ready for the road. Others had opted to take the Firefly air route which was a bit quicker. I like the drive and the convenience of deciding when to leave. On this occasion it was wet for most of the way, and quite badly so on the high road before Ipoh. Nasty driving when the rain is lashing - can't see much through the spray that the road throws up. Just got to punch it through. The easing rain made for a brief water stop at a rest place and breakfast around 10.30, just before the Butterworth toll. The tailback from the toll to the Penang bridge turnoff was slow but smooth and the drive through Penang to Georgetown was easy enough. Got a bit confused with the Garmin taking us to the Oriental Hotel but a quick adjustment got us to the E&O Hotel at 1pm with enough time to freshen up for our 2pm meet and bus drive for the first leg of our Penang jolly at Suffolk House. This is a heritage building which was once the residence of Sir Francis Light, effectively the founder and first Governer of Penang. 

Jeremy's Column

It was delightful - over the years the house had fallen into ruin and we saw photos of a pretty delapidated wreck of a building. The Penang Heritage Trust has done a brilliant job in securing funds to restore the house to glory, and today it is a museum and tea house and totally and deservedly on the tourist map. One of our members had actually sponsored one of the columns there and we delightfully took photos of him with his contribution. There is a tendency for Heritage projects to get short shrift in favour of grand spanking Condo Blocks and Shopping Malls which makes the restoration even more notable. The more far sighted recognnise the attraction value of such projects to the future tourism industry and appear more prepared to support than their counterparts in the more southern parts of Malaysia. We were treated to an informative and entertaining tour of the House by renowned architect Laurence Loh who oversaw the restoration project. Originally the house overlooked 180 acres of land - now it is down to one. 

Jan Shaw and Bachan Singh

We were also treated to a peculiarly Malaysian / Colonial Hi tea of Curry Puffs and Cream scones with Jam and Earl Grey tea which was most pleasant in a sweet and spicy kind of way. The overcast sky kept things agreeably cool though the bus got a bit chilly en route to the Botanical Gardens. We were treated to a Two Ringgit trip on a rickety tractor driven cart through green flora and grubby looking monkeys hopeful for food from the tourists. Again, the overcast made for a pleasant ten minute ride around the gardens. 

The funicular that normally takes people up Penang Hil had been declared out of action for repairs so we were all herded into four wheel drive cars for the fifteen minute drive up to the top. It got a bit harrowing in places where the bends were sharp and the drops quite sheer and the workmanlike vans were less than pristine in cleanliness and smell. In addition, shrieking motors and the smell of electrical burning didn't help in the confidence stakes. But we got there in one slightly shaken piece and got greeted by champagne and canapes on the bar. Which sadly we couldn't do much justice to as most of us were still feeling the effects of the scones and curry puffs to really enjoy the tidbits. But we did whack the fizz. 

The Tractor Bus at the Botanical Gardens

Penang Hill has a brilliant aspect of the Straits and the mainland and has a magnificent vista across Georgetown below. Well, it does when the sun shines - intermittent clouds made for an interrupted view, though the cool chill air was delightful. The Governor remarked that he had first set foot on the hill in the 1950s and at that time it was all green except for the Burmah Road and the Jetty. Not much green visible in Georgetown from the hill today. Indeed, thanks to overdevelopment the mountain at the back of us had gone bald and some Penangites at the time of writing were shaving their heads in protest. Good luck.

View from Penang Hill - bit cloudy

Owner and Operator of the David Brown Restaurant AK Lim was on hand to greet and mingle with the assembled and following the end of the fizz we made our way up a level to the David Brown restaurant for dinner. Lenglui insisted on calling the place Charlie Brown's since it felt more homely and pertinent than David. I was no better - I was calling it Gordon Brown's. Nothwithstanding, this is a quaint colonial style restaurant full of wood and old fireplaces and artefacts from the past. Indeed in a previous incarnation it was part of the Smokehouse group which specialised in woody old school inns. The Armitage WCs in the Gents restrooms are things one rarely sees today but mean so much to those of us who remember them from our formative times. So much water against the white porcelain...   sometimes, life can seem little more than one long pee...

In the Gardens at David Brown on Penang Hill

On previous occasions tables could be set on the grass verge by the pond to enjoy the alfresco hilltop sunset. The prospect of rain had put the veritable damper on that idea so a table for all nineteen of us had been set under the verandah. Indeed, hardly had we sat when the sky began to drizzle. The rain made the evening chill decidely cool, and the more far sighted had brought wraps and shirts to keep the chill at bay. The seats were also a bit on the low side for comfortable eating and only three cushions were apparently available. I snaffled one for the Lenglui to maintain pleasant relations. Evening was called to order by President Rajan, Li Dong introduced owner AK Lim to talk about the restaurant and I was asked to comment on the wines. Well, read off the notes that the Kiwi had thoughtfully drafted for the event.

Li Dong, Edna and Jan

Consensus was that the food was bit "okay only" though my Beef Wellington was well tasty, with firm beef and soft flaky pastry. Others found things a bit variable in doneness terms. The Waldorf Salad was fair. Wines were a bit on the young side and not overly memorable. The restaurant staff seemed to have got some of them mixed up as well, though everything ultimately got drunk. AK had brought some 18yo Single Malt whiskey for those who enjoyed a glass. I do try to resist the Scotch - my worst night terrors have been as a result of mad nights with the firewater - and did quite successfully do so on this occasion, limiting the imbibe to a single Single. Others were sucking on their glasses like calves at the teat and passing the bottle to presumably numb the senses sufficiently to forget the Four Wheel Drive ride down the hill to the bus for our return to the hotel. The diehards repaired for a nightcap at the Sarkies bar which was good drunken fun, but it led to a variable sleep for me. High tannic and alcohol in the wines don't let me sleep all the way through.

My Beef Welly - very tasty

Wines

1. Faustino Cava NV 

2. Cellar Capcanes Mas Donis Blanco 2012  

A blend of Garnacha Blanco and Macabeo. Attractive yellow golden green color; seductive fruit flavors of  peach, pear, mango,  banana; and hints of flowers and herbs; creamy and soft with crispy freshness in mouth and  medium bodied, lovely fruit and floral finish.

3. Domaine Christian Moreau Chablis 1er Cru 2010

Here the nose is both more elegant and more complex with really lovely purity to the aromas of sea breeze, pear, floral notes and spice hints. There is an attractive raciness to the detailed and beautifully intense mineral-driven medium-bodied flavors that possess excellent precision on the balanced, long and attractively complex finish. This is really lovely juice fashioned with admirable finesse that is sufficiently forward that it could be enjoyed now or cellared for a few years first. (Allen Meadows 91)

Preparing for the ride back down the hill...

4. St Clair Omaka Pinot Noir 2012 

Medium to deep ruby colored, the 2010 Omaka Reserve Pinot Noir is scented of kirsch, warm mulberries and raspberry compote with touches of black pepper, balsamic and spice box. Medium bodied with a good amount of evolving red berry and spice flavors in the mouth, it has a low to medium level of very finely grained tannins, crisp acid and a long finish. (Parker 90)

5. Catena Zapata Nicasia Malbec 2007 

The single vineyard Malbecs begin with the 2007 Nicasia Vineyard Malbec. It was barrel-fermented and aged for 18 months in 100% new oak including a racking into a second set of new barrels (the so-called “200% new oak” treatment). A glass-coating opaque purple/black in color, it offers up a splendid nose of toasty new oak, earth notes, exotic spices, black cherry and black raspberry. This is followed by a plush, layered, intensely flavored wine with potential complexity, precision balance, and a seamless finish. (Parker 95)

Saturday January 11 2014

On the Rickshaws

Shaken awake at the ungodly time of 7.30am for showering and getting ready for an 8.30am away in the bus which naturally became 9 o'clock. Two rapid coffees didn't do the usual trick for the morning business. Breakfast was not brilliant - tasteless fruit and bread. 

Does this thing have a meter?

Brief briefing from tour guide Chua of which nothing stuck in the befuddled morning brain before climbing on to the bus for a five minute drive to Fort Cornwallis which included an entertaining story about touching the cannon to ensure fertility through presumably not firing blanks. Off the bus and we then all got loaded onto bicycle driven rickshaws for a ten minute and at times scary ride ride along to the Leong San Tong Khoo Kongsi, a temple style affair with a dedication temple on one side of a palazzo square and a theatre stage on the other. Scary because the rickshaw (being pedalled along by the somewhat elderly chap at a pace somewhat slower than a brisk walk) was competing with cars on main roads that motored past at a rapid lick within inches of our rickshaws. Not happy, especially when hung over though accidents seem very few. Next time will walk.

Lenglui resisting playing with the Lion's balls

The Khoo Kongsi is well worth a look with its massively ornate carvings out of granite and lots of red and gold. Wonderful stonework, and a number of admonitions against rolling the balls inside the mouths of the Chinese Lions. There's probably a joke about putting ones balls in the lion's mouth but it feels a bit seedy. Seems they have dinners and functions here. Makes sense - hugely atmospheric. RM10 felt a bit stiff though, but presumably they don't get much help from Municipal financial sources so needs must. Entrance is via the hidden Cannon Lane but is well worth searching out.

At the Khoo Kongsi Penang

Khoo Kongsi Stonework

The Kongsi was followed by a stroll around the Heritage area. In previous trips to Penang we normally don't do the Tourist route and only now did we see what we have been missing. Lots of quaint stores and shophouses loaded with charm and history. Penangites have taken to developing street art and walls are decorated with either paintings or metalwork style cartoons and text. We only did one main street but clearly there is much here to enjoy. We were told that the plan is for Georgetown to become walkable from one side to the other in forty minutes. Traffiic is sufficiently slow due to the rickshaws, though complete absence of motor transport would be most welcome in this part. 

Amazing Tiled Tiger

We finished our walking tour of the heritage area ahead of time so we crossed a main road to take in a walk along the Jetties. A UNESCO World Heritage site, these are wooden homes built on wooden jetties that go out to the sea. Each one has a different name and generations seem to live and die here. There were a lot of tourists walking up and down our particular jetty and the enterprising Chinese who live here seem to make do with selling drinks and knick knacks. Temple at the end of one jetty to pay homage to the sea gods. Up to this time, most of the morning had passed in a hangover and lack of sleep daze. There was one spark of humour - a Mat Salleh was sunning himself on his Jetty and from our angle looked like he was somewhat underdressed and sunning his…. underparts. My remark of being hopeful that he was wearing his underpants drew some chuckles. As we passed it became evident that he was indeed in a sufficient sartorial state of dress.

Metalwork Art

Traditional Nyonya house - lots of red and gold

Back on the bus for a short ride to visit a traditional Nyonya house. This was a magnificent home kept in traditional style with loads of history and clothes and glassware and bits and pieces to entertain and photograph. The old TV and radio from the forties was quaint, as was a huge portrait camera. Perfect period setting for TV and movie shoots. The porcelain peices were exquisite and Lenglui bought a couple of pieces. 

The Seven Terraces

Rather than back on the bus, it was easier to walk to lunch at the Kebaya Restaurant at Seven Terraces, a renovated row of shophouses on a backstreet of the town. Normally only open for dinner, our specially arranged lunch was delightful. There are also apartments which can be rented out for families looking to stay. Billed as Nyonya fusion style cuisine the Nyonya was definitely in evidence and of a most excellent standard - slightly sweet with firm heat rather than scorching fire from the spice. The food dishes proved to be great matches with the wines - our old friend Prosecco di Prosecco to start, the Selbach Riesling to follow and Ornellaia's third wine Le Volte to finish. The Riesling was inspired - crisp peach and apple honey sweetness soothed the Nyonya fire on the Chicken Curry a treat. the PdP was a pleasant tongue settler too - sweetly crisp bubbles with just the right amount of acidity to soothe rather than scrape which set off the vegetable based Pai Tee and Otak Otak a treat. 

Thai Soft Shell Crab Salad - crunchy!

The 2011 Le Volte felt a bit young and vibrant for the food, though apparently it went a treat with the lamb shank which I never take. The Geezer finished off the remaining red and would have had the final bottle opened had it not been for the consensus running against him. By this time I was starting to regain a bit of vim following the PdP. Brief conversation about our lot as Expats in Malaysia and our varying forms of residence status. The Governor shared that in his time he had known of two people on PR who had been given 24 hours notice to leave. Something to be avoided for sure.

Dishes we tried

Kebaya Ban Xeo - crispy wafers stuffed with shredded chicken, bean sprouts, crispy tofu and stir fried vegetables in a tamarind sauce

Lenglui and the Kiwi

Pai Tee - Crispy "top hats" of saltwater school prawns with fresh julienned vegetables and a sweet chili and coriander sauce

Otak Otak - Red snapper cooked with garlic and turmeric and baked in a crispy pastry

Thai Soft Shell Crab Salad - with chili lime dresing, green apples and pomegranate

Grilled Chicken Kapitan - with a paste of chili, garlic, shallots and candle nuts

Prawn Geng - Wild caught prawns in a curry of turmeric and lemongrass

Hong Bak Lamb - Prime New Zealand lamb shank sous vide for 48 hours and served in its jus

Sambal Goreng - Sauteed French beans and baby corn, lemongrass, shallots and belacan coconut cream with cashew nuts

Pandan Creme Brulee - egg custard spiked with pandan essence and served with brandy snaps

Cheers!!

Wines

1. Tenimenti Prosecco di Prosecco NV 

2. Dr Loosen Graacher Himmelreich Kabinett Riesling 2011

Loosen’s 2011 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling offers the sort of hidden sweetness that sets-off ripe fruit (here primarily pear-like); enhances levity, and proves highly versatile at table. Subtly smoky and crushed stone notes add interest to a soothing palate and a prolonged, satisfyingly sappy finish. (Parker 89)

3. Ornellaia Le Volte 2011

The 2011 Le Volte dell'Ornellaia (a 50-30-20 blend of Merlot, Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon) is a gorgeous and silky smooth red wine that imparts bright tones of red cherry, blackberry, sweet spice and chocolate. The wine's youthful freshness and fruit-forward mouthfeel is ultimately what makes it such a pleasure to drink. (Parker 90)

More Cheers at Seven Terraces

Back on the bus to go back to the hotel for a well needed nap and a spruce up for a 6pm meet on the bus and a forty minute drive to the Rasa Sayang Resort for dinner at the Ferringhi Grill. Dress code had been set at Jackets and Medallions. The trip took us along the coast road which is now pretty much lined with condo blocks. Our Tour Guide was giving us prices for all the condos that we passed on the way. He could double as a Realtor. Maybe he does.

At the Rasa Sayang, the Ferringhi Grill had been moved to a new upstairs location and gave a charming sunset view from seats strategically positioned. It was a full house for the night. We were sat away from this near the bar where the champagne was flowing. A shade too sweetly acidic for personal taste, and one bottle indeed remained unopened as would one white later in the evening. Possibly a bit too much of a good thing given our lunch and previous night, but we struggled manfully and womanfully. 

Struggling with the Cava - oh the pain, the pain...

Our group was joined by two members from IWFS Penang who promised a tour of Penang's best street food on our return. Matching wine should be fun.

Making friends - IWFS KL and IWFS Penang

Vodka and Watermelon with Caviar Blini

For the Ferringi Grill food, the appetizers were belter - carpaccio of beef was unusually tender, salmon with horseradish was succulent and creamy and blue cheese grapes were stellar. At the table, the Amuse bouche of watermelon and vodka was something we could have drunk all night. Can't remember much about the FG Starter, though the lobster ravioli failed due to undercooked pasta and oversweet meat. My beef was nicely done though the jus was a bit rich for taste. My neighbour's lamb was well overdone though others said theirs was perfect. The dessert was very good by all accounts - mine got passed along the table since I find chocolate to get in the way of the wine. 

Seared Foie Gras

So it would seem to be a bit variable in the kitchen. Winewise, the Lafon Macon Verze is an old favourite - crisp fruit driven white burgundy. The Stonier Pinot was excellent - balanced, good cherry and pepper and superb body. Supple tannins and overall superb structure. A well built wine. Our 2004 Armailhac drank nicely - standard right bank Bordeaux with good Merlot feel and Cabernet mouth. Good body, chewy fruit and tannin and a crisp velvet finish. We also finished off the leftover Le Volte from lunch though one of the Macon Verze got left undrunk.

Lobster Ravioli - a bit sad...

Menu

Amuse Bouche

Vodka Scented with Watermelon Juice with Caviar Blini

Seared Foie Gras - balsamic reduction, rocket, strawberries, brioche bread and chocolate

Blue Shell Lobster Ravioli - saffron foam, basil oil and fennel salad

Pomegranate Granite - with champagne

Grilled Beef Tenderloin - cap mushroom puree, glazed baby carrots, peas, Zucchini and truffle merlot sauce

Lamb Rack - Dijon herb crust, rosemary gnocchi, glazed baby carrots, basil oil and merlot sauce

Canadian Cod - sauteed garden vegetables, roasted potatoes and lemon butter sauce

Chocolate Symphony - pudding, mousse, ice cream and feresh berries

Coffee or Tea - Petit Fours

Grilled Beef Tenderloin

Wines

1. Deutz Champagne NV 

Made from roughly one-third each of chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunier.   Light yellow.  Toasty lees, poached pear and lemon rind on the pungent nose.  Offers an array of sappy citrus and orchard fruit flavors and becomes spicier with air.  The lemon and lees notes come back on the broad, clear finish. (Tanzer 90)

2. Alois Lageder Sauvignon Blanc 2011 

A crisp style of Sauvignon Blanc more akin to the Loire style, dry with grapefruit and citrus dominating.

Lamb Rack at Ferringhi Grill

3. Heritiers Lafon Macon Uchizy Les Maranches 2011 

There is excellent volume to the clean, pure, crisp and beautifully intense flavors that culminate in a very dry and energetic finish. This would also make a fine choice for a house white. (Allen Meadows 89)

4. Stonier Reserve Pinot Noir 2011

A medium bodied Pinot which has a deceptively light ruby sheen but with a well rounded structure to the wine. One of the most well weighted, complex and floral pinots from a cool region of Australia.

Chocolate Symphony

5. Chateau d’Armailhac 2004 

A dark ruby color is accompanied by crisp acids, sweet cranberry, black cherry and darker fruit aromas, and a clean, pure, classically built medium-bodied, elegantly wrought wine will benefit from another 2-3 years cellaring and should keep for 12-15 years. (Parker 89) 

At the restaurant, new member Lydia was celebrating a birthday and requested a song which the hotel crooners didn't know but I happened to. So she had a serenade of Don McLean's "Vincent" That was it - the bus ride back to the hotel became a raucous singalong all the way, topped by a rock and roll rap by the Kiwi. Others went to nightcap, we went to sleep. Well, tried to. 

Sunday 12th January 2014

Another variable night sleepwise, waking up and down for late breakfast of coffee and croissant. Everyone else seemed well chipper and ready to do battle with the day. I do envy those who seem able to chug a skinful of booze and wake up as if nothing had happened. We left the hotel to take a sweaty walk for an early lunch of Assam Laksa, Char Kwey Teoh and O-Tien at an old haunt on the Burmah Road. Which ended up a bit disappointing on this occasion - the consensus was it was not nearly as tasty as was remembered from previous visits. 

On the walk back to hotel we bought biscuits for the Duchess and Loh Bak to take back for Sifu in KL. I rested up in the hotel whilst the others went to Straits Quay for a wander. The rest was good and necessary - all the partying does seem to take a toll on this body so a decent rest prior to the four hour drive back to KL gets one sufficiently rested. The actual drive was thankfully uneventful though a bit wet in spots and consequently slow, but ultimately we made good time and arrived home just as the sun was setting. 

In all, a brilliantly organised trip - we saw bits of Penang we don't normally visit which made for a hugely entertaining and memorable trip. Most enjoyable indeed.