Cannes to Paris Avalon Cruise September 2017 - Day Nine

Basilica on the Hill

Sunday September 24 2017

Awoke to sunshine outside the window and a bigass building we had gotten docked next to in Lyon. We had slightly overslept so a need for a swift ablute and breakfast to get out and onto an 8.30am bus that was going to take us around Lyon town. For some reason we got the wrong radio pack which would mean that we would not be able to tune into our guide for the city tour. Might have been a blessing; she had such a monotone voice that just listening to her on the bus set us dozing… 

The area where the ship had docked looked quite modern, all steel and glass building and lots of space for lounging at coffee bars. It was a bit early and a Sunday to boot so it was all a bit quiet at this breakfast time. Seems there was a cable car system that could get you both in and out of Lyon in about 15 minutes, so anyone who wanted to stay a bit longer in town could do this to get back. In principle, anyway - the instructions on the handout were not crystal clear as to where the thing stopped in town nor quite at which stop we would have to disembark. Never mind, figure it out when we got there.

Overlooking Lyon - bit hazy...

It had earlier been decided not to come back for lunch but to try somewhere in town. I had unearthed a Paul Bocuse backed Bistro named Le Nord. There was not enough time to go to the main restaurant (nor could I establish whether it was open for Sunday lunch) so we figured this was the next best thing.  I had figured we did not need a reservation since the French rarely take them anyway, and was quite looking forward to it. 

More Lyon - slightly brighter...

We dozed as our guide told us we were going up a hill to visit the Basilica which on a perfect day would give us a fabulous view across Lyon. Today was not a perfect day - there was a haze covering the city so the most we got was a shadowy dust brick view of buildings poking through it. The photos were predictably grim. Still, there was a toilet at the top allowing for a free pee which was quite welcome. We lurked about the car park for a while in the eye watering sunlight and slowly ambled back to where the buses were parked. The ride up had been a bit close to the side on a couple of occasions and we hoped the return would not be as narrow.  There was a disabled chap parked at the church entrance craving alms from the faithful walking in for the service and not proving too successful. I just grabbed whatever small change was in the pocket and gave it to him. You can turn the eye in the town but not outside a church. He had stumps for hands and seemed most grateful and shook my arm with much merci Monsieur. Mon brave I called him. There but for the grace of God... 

Lyon Old Town - narrow cobblestone affairs

Back on the bus for more monotone commentary as the town rushed past. It looked very quaint and unmistakeably French with shutter windows and rail verandahs. Which suggested we were coming to the Old Town (correct!) and quite soon we were dismounting and cutting down a street to get to the heart of the city. This would prove an ankle wrenching wander through cobblestone streets and through some of the secret tunnels of the town. The buildings were quite tall so the streets were pretty shaded. I got a large sense of "tourist" at many of the places we stopped at, though some of the shops looked authentic old and dedicated to the Lyonaisse. 

Somewhere along the way we managed to lose the guide and hence we did not receive instruction as to where to meet the bus. But the Old Town is a small town and we came across Big John from the cruise who shared the detail. There was an Artist market going on along the bank which made for more diversions.

Delightful Riverbank Market

The bus came to pick up the Cruisers returning to the ship and parked up on the narrow roadside. We had earlier been told there were only very small windows for parking and if one was not at the appointed spot then one would be walking back. I swiftly retrieved the bags from the bus and Lenglui and I left on foot for our lunch, though not before getting delayed by the rest of the market and Lenglui stopping to buy little bits. Naturally. Though in fairness there were some delightful little souvenir bits that were way too pretty to pass up. 

We had a map of Lyon from the ship and I had marked the restaurant on it. It was on the other side of the river and appearing not too far to walk. Which indeed proved so. Le Nord was scheduled to open at noon and, notwithstanding a couple of stops along the way from the Old town, we were still a shade early. 'Yoo 'ave ze reservation?" I explained no. "Nevair maind," said the Maitresse D', "yoo sit zere whaile ai get zee staff ready, Oui?"  So Lenglui sat "zere" whilst I went up zee stairs for the toilet. I should have known they would have wanted a reservation… bloody French…   

Maitresse came back with the menu and we ordered quickly. Lenglui had been tasting the Bresse chicken since Cannes and quickly went for it along with some Escargots. I opted for Plat du Jour figuring Lenglui would share. Of course. We also opted for a carafe of the house red. 

Ham Brioche

Ultimately the food at Le Nord felt a bit ordinary and not up to expectations of somewhere with a Bocuse name attached to it. My starter came quickly, a chunk of ham in some brioche with (I think) wasabi and a side salad. Not bad. Can't remember what my main was and I don't seem to have a photo of it. The Escargots were delightful - poached in little porcelain pots in a stew of herbs and butter garlic and topped with garlic butter croutons. Lenglui's Bresse disappointed - it came in some gravy and the meat was a bit on the dry side. I had a taste and was also disappointed - not a patch on the Hotel du Ville in Beaune. My dessert of Fig Tart was…  missing something. It was fresh figs on custard basted sponge with raspberry coulis and whipped cream on pastry. The coulis dominated and needed a counterpoint to its tongue stinging acidity. But then it was a Sunday lunch - we would need to go back for dinner to give a fair review. 

Le Nord Escargots - wicked!

We got chatting to our table neighbour Frank, from Cork, who was having the Fish. Turns out he was (still is) a Chef who ran a place called the Wild Goose in Long Island USA for a while along with a few places beside (some club in Wardour Street in the early 80s got mentioned). He had landed that morning from somewhere in the US and was having problems finding where his cruise ship was docked. We eventually helped him find it via a roundabout taxi ride as a result of Frank's taxi driver who managed to get himself spectacularly lost. The problem was that the ship was not answering Frank's phone and the restaurant would not let me use their phone to find where it was. Bloody French. Nay, bastard French on this occasion. We eventually found the Affinity where Jean Loup did the necessary. Frank promised to travel Avalon next time rather than the one that had been booked. He also gave us some suggestions for restaurants to try in Paris. I would give our last bottle from Arles to Jean Loup as a thank you and early Xmas present the next day. Should really have given chocolates I suppose - didn't have any. 

Fig Tart

We boarded the Affinity to sleep off lunch and showered and surfaced for a 6pm talk on "The French" by a guest speaker which was quite entertaining. Then it was back to change for dinner whilst the sun shone over Lyon. Got to the lounge and we set sail and enjoyed the passing riverside and wildlife in a great feeling of tranquillity.

Lyon centre

From the verandah window I observed a couple of yob types on the Lyon riverbank in their rebel black jeans and jackets, and one shouting some sort of odds and seeming to lob a rock at the ship. I might have misperceived this, though some gestures were certainly involved. Got me thinking how some people feel they didn't somehow get a chance, and consequently feel justified in their rage against whom they perceive as the better off. Reminded me of me. Wasn't the exact reason I ran off the rails in 1983 but it was contributory. Rage against the rich and the establishment and wanting to stick it to the man. But when you get some education then you begin to understand the man and the machine and the reality that there isn't any real escape. We all need to earn and turn a buck but it is true that sometimes you get so far down through circumstance or birth defect that the chances to make something of life dry up quicker than they do for the able bodied and the strong and the strategic. I know I got thrown a second chance when my train derailed and I was fortunate that I had not yet been trapped by the welfare system nor the society of the underground. I got an education which the state effectively paid for and was able to come back from scrounging around for dog ends to roll into a smoke to cruising the world on the Avalon Affinity. And here was this black jeans and jacket kid in Lyon cursing at me in French for selling out and becoming a comparatively rich bastard. Perhaps he is not wrong. Perhaps I have sold out. Middle class and comfortable. I remember the rebel, but now I know you sometimes have to choose your causes. 

Lenglui rocking the house!

But perhaps there is also an undercurrent of resentment here that the rest of us are missing. The poor in Europe continue to swell and line the river banks of the towns in their cardboard shanties. Maybe better than where they came from but still shitty conditions. So all one sometimes can do to get attention is to throw a brick. But the sense is that the (we) Cruisers are all too old to care or want to do anything about it. We are happy and distracted and just want our cocktails and wine with dinner. We have made it, we have built our fortunes and are enjoying them whilst we plod on to our singular oblivions. Angry young men? They have no place in the cruising community. Though the rock thrower did stir a strange pang of guilt and perhaps a need to shake the complacency… maybe time to rock the boat?

This evening was to be our farewell dinner and everyone had dressed up in their best and finest. Can't remember much about the food. I do recall giving a book on French Wine by Keith Floyd that I had picked up in the UK to Charlie and Karen as souvenir and thank you for sharing their CdP. They seemed quite happy, though I had a little pang of regret in letting it go. Never mind - good to see them happy and it would mean slightly less weight to check in on our upcoming Easyjet to Catania in Sicily. 

Look what I found!!

Dinner was followed by the March of All the Staff around the tables. I was sucking down some delightful red Beaujolais and ended up in the lounge singing with pianist Mitko whilst the assembled got jiggy with some standards - I recall singing Teddy Bear, Rock around the Clock, and Eight Days a Week in harmony with him. Quite fun. Lenglui also sang a couple of songs (Only You and Hello Dolly) and tried some German brandy whilst I socked down a Grand Marnier. Excellent ways to end a good fun evening.

DC Restaurant - f@@ing wonderful...

On your marks...

February 8th 2018

Got invited to an eating at DC Restaurant by Julian Teoh (of Julian's Eating - click here>>) through which Chef Darren had indicated some feedback would be appreciated. I'll do it dish by dish as far as I can remember. 

This was essentially a wine pairing exercise of Darren's new 7 course "Discovery" Menu (for which there was a special "DC X Love <3 Taste" degustation style winter menu for Valentine's Day) with an option to sample some organic wines from boutique style creators. This was a slight variation from the "Discovery" menu and included some slight adds to and takeaways from the dishes. The DC Restaurant Webby (www.restaurant-dc.com) says cost is RM568++ for the Full Monty of 8 courses, with optional add on Winter Black Truffle at RM288 and Natural Skin Contact wine pairing starting at RM115++ for two glasses.

DC Restaurant also has a four course "Light" option at RM328++ and a six course "Taste" menu at RM438++

I managed to get there reasonably on time despite the downpour that was going on (and strange that on both previous visits it was similar monsoon weather). Julian almost cancelled on me but, fair play to him, he battled the elements and Grabcars cancelling on him to get in only an hour behind schedule. Which had given me some time to write some fairly decent notes on the first three courses and elements and wines. 

Get set....

Short version

In general terms, I thoroughly enjoyed the experience. DC Restaurant is the total package for fine dining in Kuala Lumpur. Excellent (if occasionally over enthusiastic) service, exquisite dishes, thoughtfully prepared and delightfully presented in a sedate, understated and elegant setting. Very good textural progression of both food and wines through the evening. 

Pluses were - getting left alone by staff at the downstairs reception area but getting offered the choice of fizz or water; getting shown to the table and recognised by sommelier like an old friend, excellent service to prepare table with bread, butter and water, crisp white heavy tablecloth, getting left alone to enjoy the dishes after a full explanation of the contents, Chef Darren coming out from the kitchen with the first dish to say Hello. 

My one gripe was in terms of the overall…  overall. Each of the individual dishes were standalone excellent. For me, some stood out as hugely memorable - the Uni in the shell and the Homage to Paul were massive and dishes I will remember across time.

I think my difficulty with the other dishes, wonderful as they were at the time, is that all somehow ended up tasting the same. All I can remember of them is foam and Ikura salmon pearls. They do add zap and class to a dish…  but when one is getting them on subsequent or later dishes, then it kind of all meshes together. Had a similar experience at Akelare in San Sebastian - everyone raved about it but all I could (and still can) remember of it all is that everything tasted of seawater brine and foam (see here for the write up>>). It was perhaps as a result of this that the Uni and Homage to M Paul stood out - simply perfect in their apparent simplicity. I think it has to be remembered that this was a tasting, and Chef Darren pulled out all stops to let us taste everything. So naturally any sequence would get messed up. On the night, though, and in the context of the whole sequence of dishes, less definitely felt like more. 

Dish by dish

Prelude

"The Belon" : chive oil, fermented rhubarb

"Beets" Smoked cured butterfish; grilled cabbage; oxalis

Butternut squash croquetas: black truffle, sage Chantilly, seafood stew

The delightful Belon

This was a three course amuse to get things underway. I think I got told the Belon was set on some cucumber granite, with salt and texture being given through some fish egg pearls and some chive oil to slap the cheeks. The Belon oyster was perfect - fresh, just enough squidge for bite, and the perfect foil for the light crunch lent by the cucumber. The result was a briny throat cutter which indeed slapped the cheeks and scratched the throat and tonsils a treat. Though I didn't seem to detect much rhubarb; perhaps it got a bit lost with the chive oil? Notwithstanding, Excellent start.

(Note - had to Google Belon - forgot it was the oyster. Ulu saya…)

The Beets was beetroot foam ladled onto the cabbage and fish and resting on a bed of (I think) blitzed butternut squash. My notes say the foam got a bit lost against the ferment in the cabbage and tended to neutralise the dish. The textures were fun in the mouth, nice touches with the tweezered herbs (little purple things that the Internet says are Micro Benitade) that popped the teeth with a cute wasabi shock. 

Beets, fish and butternut = nice!

The accompanying fizz (a 2010 1er Cru Larmandier-Bernier Terre de Vertus Non-Dosé) was quite friendly, fair yeast, low in acidity, delightfully fine bead and bubble and a slight amber tint suggesting some time on the lees (NB the wines would all be Natural Skin Contact). Perhaps lacking the whack of the more traditional Houses, this was nevertheless a lovely wine to start an evening of fine food. It went hugely well with the Belon whilst the Beet foam brought out a slight mineral flinty feel on the mouth and teeth. 

Third up was a slight change - Chef Darren had added the scallop to the dish, since the carpaccio to come was a shade more "of the day". Fair enough. The scallop felt a teensy shade aged on the bite but still possessed of that brilliant Hokkaido taste. The seafood sauce gave a natural bisque feel to the thing, though it felt more bouillon than bisque in mouthfeel (no bad thing; any heavier would have killed the whole thing). The pumpkin croquetas were lovely - crunchy little vegetal bites full of sweet taste and slinky texture. And the combo of these with the seafood sauce was excellent - full on taste in the mouth and thud in the gut. Adding the sage gave the clear hint of herbal and country and nicely genius. Much enjoyed. 

Excellent scallop!

Wine Two had made an appearance at this time - the 2016 Domaine Stephane Ogier Viognier. Opulent apricot nose, acacia honey mouth and tint, good grip going down with pomegranate and passion fruit finish. Quite firm and full in texture, though not overly oppressive as some Viogniers can often be. I have no note on the match, though memory serves to say it was not bad. Lack of note suggests it was not spectacular either…  Which, given that it was being paired with a soupy element, is more positive than not. Very little wine pairs well with soup. Have to try it again…

Slight digression - It was about this point that I realised that I was eating alone, and making my notes…  and quite enjoying the solitude and engagement with food, pen and paper. And found myself wondering if this was how the Michelin people all feel on their solitary missions in pursuit of gastronomic Nirvanas (? is there a plural of Nirvana? Nirvanae?) When he joined me a couple of minutes after this thought, Julian shared that he had some years back vowed to himself never to dine alone and be seen as some saddo with just his pen and book for company. "Life is too short to dine alone," are his foodie watchwords. The last dining alone I could remember was somewhere in Cannes in September 2017, and I cannot remember a previous one to this. And as said, I had been much enjoying it! Perhaps it was the novelty of it - most of my dining outs are with the Lenglui or one of the foodie groups and this solitary exercise had been enjoyable as a result. But I can see that the shine would soon wear off if doing it for every restaurant visit. Julian says by engaging all the senses during a dinner, one can still recall the salient points and reproduce them in writing at a later time. Which he does hugely well. He has great powers of recall. I still need the pen and paper. 

1st

Fresh Carpaccio of the day (airflown from Hokkaido)

Black Truffle vinaigrette

Salmon Carpaccio

Got a large explosion of salt on this from (I think) celeriac and the black caviar pearls. There was lots going on in this dish - caviar salt, truffle oil, mushroom textures - it looked fantastic. And tasted fantastic. But the side result was that the magnificent day fresh Salmon got completely overwhelmed. If the added bits were aimed at enhancing the fish, for me they overshot and supplanted rather than supplemented. Food sometimes needs to speak for itself - given the quality of the fish, this would have been one of those occasions. Little bit of caviar, maybe some yuzu infused creme fraiche, wheat cracker for texture - job done. 

The Viognier had a happy hit with the vinaigrette, which nicely softened the very slight oily note on the wine. Worked well. At this point, the remains of the fizz were still beading. Fantastic! 

Extra Dish

At this point Darren served an extra dish - day fresh Uni from (I think) Hamamatsu Prefecture in Japan, served in its shell with scrambled egg and parsnip foam. This was outstanding. Got butter, sweet salty egg, slurpy gooey texture and that gunky Uni slimeball. It all slipped down like a squidgy, buttery, salty half boiled egg but with that total sense of the Uni throughout. Like the best half boiled egg you ever tasted but with a bite of bisque. So nice. We had been given a narrow spoon with which to consume the thing - a straw might be a better alternative.  I tried some of it on the sourdough bread and butter; didn't need it. Magnificent on its own. This one is up there with some of my most memorable eats of my life. Six days later writing this, I can still taste it. Total brahma.

The amazing Uni - total brahma

It also spruced up the Viognier, giving bite and cut to the fruit and suggesting that this wine has a versatility with food that belies its initial taste. Got length, taste and fire. 

2nd 

Signature

Takao cold somen: bafun uni, truffle celeriac: vegetal

Somen and foam - great textures and mouthbuzz

Dishes were coming out pretty quickly after consumption and clearing. The Somen was excellent, that cold taste and vermicelli texture giving al dente bite and chill in the cheeks. The Uni jus gave a seaside brine and smell, which disappeared on contact with the cheek to add a cute seasalt burn to the chill. I have a note that says "fish eggs supercharge the salt to electric zip on the tongue." Which suggests there was salmon roe in the dish which is not borne out by the photograph, so I might be confused here. 

The notes also say I only got the celeriac after the cheeks and tongue had calmed from their electric salt shock. It lent good crunch, but became almost an afterthought and a bit late in the ensemble. Maybe too much salt at the start?

It is perhaps a bit unfair to try and judge this dish, given that it came after the Uni Egg. They were somewhat similar in taste and content. It did go extremely well with the remains of the Champagne though - the combo of Uni, salt and eggs was perfect to let the fizz cleanse the mouth and palate. 

Snow Crab. Hmm...

3rd

3s silky egg custard

Snow crab: foie gras; agrumes

The notes say "Hmmm…   not sure about this one. Lots going on in taste terms. Crab is very delicate. Got the texture, got the salt (more fish eggs!!), the spring onion strips, good herbs. Feels some disconnect between the Crab and the almost salty Carbonara. Japanese Egg Mushi dish with Snow Crab and Foie Gras and paprika. It shakes!!" 

What I guess I was thinking was that I get the construction and the nod to Mushi style. All of the side elements seemed to sit well with each other. I was perhaps not clear how, taste and texture wise, the Crab and Foie Gras fit into it all. Perhaps one could think about deconstructing this one and have the Crab and Foie Gras on a separate plate for guests to test the combo for themselves. Let them speak for themselves and see how they sing with the Mushi?

Accompanying wine was the Esoterico, an orange tinged fruit bomb with a tangerine taste, almost like liquid Marmalade Lite. Very refreshing. Very artisan. But perhaps not quite wine. Kudos for the attempt to pair something with an egg dish. It kind of worked too, taking some of the edge off the ikura; same colour too.

The magnificent Octopus - brilliant dish

Extra Dish

The notes get a bit non existent here basically because Julian had finally made it through the rain (hello Barry Manilow) and was catching up on the courses and foodie news and other bits of chat. Which allowed me a little break from the food which was actually quite pleasant; let the belly relax for a bit and savour the previous before the next gastronomic input. Which would prove an off menu belter - Octopus leg with Portuguese Paprika sauce with a top of Passionfruit Foam. It was a cracker - excellent chew and bite on the leg with fire and citrus from the sauce and foam. And the tweezered tiny flowers and leaves gave visual and lightly vegetal bite and herbal hints to enhance the whole. Would be very happy to eat this again either as standalone or as sequenced to follow the Uni and provide a useful and necessary contrast against the more inherently salt infused dish. 

To my huge surprise and delight, the Esoterico wine went impressively well with the Octopus. It seemed to enhance the slight Citrus bite that was coming from the Passionfruit foam. Marmalade Lite wine with Octopus - who would have thought of it? (Note - the Esoterico is a blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Muscat, Fiano). 

4th

Homage to M. Paul

Red mullet: potato scales: sauce maltaise

Homage to M Paul - fantastic!

More chat and wine guzzling brought Wine Four to bear, a Nebbiolo from the GD Vajra range. I had previously bought some of the Vajra range following a wine tasting in Plaza Damansara circa 2011. Not sure why - their subsequent drinkings felt a bit thin and reedy (can't remember the varietals - there was a Barbera, Dolcetta and one other) and finally got drunk up at one of the Tai Chi dinners (they are not so fussy with the wines as other foodie groups). This Nebbiolo had a rose petal nose and somehow floral fragrance and texture. Pleasant in the mouth, slight Pinot Noir feel, but way more feminine and approachable than many Pinots out there. 

It was being paired with the Homage to M. Paul, Chef Darren's interpretation of the Bocuse classic Loupe en Croute (Sea Bass in Pastry) which I was lucky enough to try at a lunch at the restaurant in Lyon in September 2013 (click here to read>>). And where Chef Paul himself came out to say hello to all the diners. Total moment. This was a delightful tribute to the legend, and made for a petite but substantial bite across fish and potato leaves and enhanced by the Sauce Maltaise (traditionally orange and Hollandaise, though I think more Orange on this presentation) and a dollop of (I think) Apricot. The delicately fried and layered potato leaves were… could have been a shade crispier and felt a bit "corn oil" rather than "duck fat". The Mullet was flakily superb and perfectly cooked. The combo came together nicely, the citrus matching the fish and potato and slicing through the starch and protein for a taste of Lyon here in PJ. Happy to have this one again.

The remnants of the Esoterico again surprised on the upside as a match, but perhaps on reflection not too surprising - Marmalade Lite and Orange is a total citrus bomb. The Nebbiolo also surprised, with its very light tannins cutting the fish oil and the light berry fruit shining brighter as a result.

5th 

Choice of Mains - 16hr slow roasted lamb rack (South Australia)

Comes with seasonal vegetables from our farm

Lamb and veg. Getting full...

Getting pretty full by this time. But the food kept coming. And the notes had died. Always a good sign. As a Welshman, I had naturally signed up for the Lamb - we Welshies were raised on it for an occasional Sunday Roast change from Chicken since it was readily available and not as expensive as other meats. Lamb Chops were also regulars on the dinner table whilst watching after school TV ahead of going upstairs to do the homework. 

For me, the lamb was a bit of a let down. I presume there is a reason why a rack of lamb tastes better after a 16 hour Slow Roast but this one went wide of my understanding. I didn't get it (though I must confess to not getting much of the slow roasting concept. Except for Beef Cheeks.)  My general preference is for medium rare with some sear and char on the outside. This one had the sear but the taste felt somehow not quite right. Maybe it was the Lamb; when one is raised on Welsh or New Zealand, the Oz is perhaps a bit of a poor relation. Something on the plate was also a shade oversalted to my tolerance (which is very low). The organic vegetables…   hmmm….  whilst I have signed on to the delights of biodynamic wine (as distinct from organic - biodynamic adheres to stricter standards of farming and cultivation), I find much organic vegetation lacking in taste. Maybe it is the soil, maybe it is the seeds - it all seems to taste like earth. Some of those on show on the plate (the carrots) looked as if they had undergone a swift blanche in organic unsalted water and prettily and deftly arranged on the plate. There were also too many of them for my preference - the veg needs to enhance rather than overwhelm.  Could have taken off half of the veg and there would still have been too much.  Julian later suggested that perhaps the Veg could come on a separate sharing plate - given that Malaysians love to share food, this would be a good fit. For me, whilst it might be a bit traditional, some Robuchon style butter mashed potato would have been a home run to soak up the salt and jus off the lamb. Some classics are classic for a reason.

Can't remember...

Regular readers will know that desserts are not really my bag and, though I happily wolf them down, I am usually too wrecked by the booze to offer any comment worthy of reading. But I do enjoy cheese and the DC Cheese Trolley is easily the best in the city. Fantastic offerings of a decent range of high end styles, it makes for a very French way of ending the evening and polishing off what is left of any red. Much enjoyed. I broke a rule and had a coffee whilst Julian opted for a very ornate and lovingly prepared cup of (I think) Chrysanthemum Tea. 

Best Cheese Platter in town!

Chef Darren, Julian and I had a post meal discussion and all shared thoughts and observations over a half bottle of hugely tasty Ile des Vergelesses. This was my first time to sit down with Chef and share thoughts and wine about food and the business. I found him to be hugely passionate about his craft. His knowledge, his justifications for his choices, all coming from a deep dipping into various cuisines, though French styles and preparations have clearly captured his heart. In the foodie community here in Kuala Lumpur, he is way ahead in the top top echelon, vying with Darren Teoh of Dewakan as to who is king of the mountain (or perhaps, in our case, the Klang Valley…). I am not going here, because the styles and approaches and consequent results are different. Though conversation did stray as to whether a "Darren and Darren" evening might work - the conclusion was:  difficult, not impossible. Perhaps a Food Channel TV Series contrasting both could work? 

Whatever, both should be celebrated for their guts, their innovation and missions, and their huge dedication to their art and craft of food preparations. There is a sense of locavore in both, though I find Dewakan Darren more open to deconstruction of Malaysian staples whilst DC Darren prefers French style approaches to technique. I am guessing that they have to put up with a lot of opinion from their patrons. Though I would further guess Dewakan Darren gets less as a result of the deconstruction aspect - there is little else to compare it with as opposed to DC Darren who is up against the entire tradition of French cuisine. 

In this context, I did detect a slight sense of frustration from Chef Darren. Kind of like he has been banging his head against the wall of the Malaysian Palate and feeling that it is starting to hurt. 

It is a total truism that in Malaysia everyone is a food expert. From "which mamak has the best Roti or Nasi Kandar" to "Durian nuances between northern orchards and the south"; everyone has a view which they want (nay, NEED) to share. And I have noticed that this often becomes more so when one is a Malaysian of wealth, position and status and, as a result, becoming occasionally of the opinion that such opinion demands the highest respect and needs to be unconditionally agreed with by everyone else. Kind of like one must kowtow to Datuk and Datin because, er, they are Datuk and Datin lah! And they must know better!! Why? Because they are Datuk and Datin lah!!! I occasionally wonder whether this opinion giving becomes self serving; that Datuk and Datin give their opinions because they think they need to be seen to have opinions and also need to be seen to be asserting them over the minions. I guess we have all heard this somewhere - "Ay, Chef (pronounced "tchef") you know, ah, nex' time, ah, you put some chili on the foy grass. Ah. You try try.  Waaaaah, ho seck no? See.. (pulling out a small container) I always bring some chili...   you mus' put chili on foy grass one. I tell you, mus' have, good for parang, hor..." 

So those chefs who stick to their recipe guns and politely and firmly refuse suggestions to add chili or some other left field ingredient to allegedly improve a dish over which Chef has cracked his head to try and perfect it need all our support. They need our encouragement. They need our patronage. They need to be reassured that their sense of gastronomic adventures will continue to be supported. Otherwise they will simply up sticks and find a more supportive community for their endeavours. They are an endangered species that can easily get killed off by the continual numbing headbutts of self delusional opinions and insistence that all the kitchens of the world should follow suit with the seemingly unassailable and persistent viewpoint that all dishes need chili.  

I would not want to see DC shut its doors and watch Chef Darren set up shop overseas to farm his food and prepare it for a more appreciative crowd. But I also know that everyone has a limit. 

I told Chef that I liked the variations of plate shapes and colours and separate cutlery for each dish. Nice bit of theatre in being allowed to select the knife for the main from a range of colours. And I got a great sense of traditional French with cute little inputs of Japanese which helped the dishes pop. Julian grumped a bit against Chef using similar ingredients in different dishes throughout the progression. He also grumped a bit against the "looks" of each of the dishes all flowing together and looking somewhat "production line" and kind of the same. Having similar visual arrangements showing on dishes throughout the progression is apparently not good form. Okay...  makes sense. I grumped a bit against foam and pearls on seemingly everything and a perceived need for variation to allow the dishes some space to distinguish themselves individually. All of the dishes were very good, some were exceptional, though as said perhaps in need of a little bit of tweaking on the pearls and foam to lend ebb and flow to the sequence of dishes. Which actually can be seen to exist on the set menus - the four and six course menus flow nicely whilst perhaps it is only the full Monty eight course that feels like it overdoes things with the foam and pearls. Very good wine pairing, showcasing some lesser known styles and labels and their abilities to match the dishes. I will be going back for this menu. And the wines pairing. 

Looking back, I now can see the artistry with which each dish got prepared. The aesthetic of the plate arrangement is not something that I tend to notice at the table - memo to self: engage the sense of sight a bit more rather than the mouth and the tongue and the wine and the belly. 

Has Chef Darren grown as a Chef? Clearly the answer is yes - whilst the food on my previous visits was little short of excellent, I had yet to really remember a dish the day after the meal. Now I have two, maybe three with the Octopus. Thank you Chef for these. And I think there is a related point here as to whether I have grown in tandem as a foodie punter and supposed writer. No point to keep commenting if you stick with the same internal paradigms and hack phrases. In this, I believe I have - looking back at the early writings, there seems more breadth of thought in the more recent responses to dishes. Depth is next. I think it is incumbent on all of us who profess knowledge of our subjects that we look to grow. Especially if we claim to know our food. By sparring and sharing, and being willing to learn and experience the new, we all grow. And we all have to WANT to grow. If one doesn’t have this sense of adventure, if one doesn't find joy and bliss in the new, then perhaps best to stick with the hawker stall and not look to impose one’s food views on the world. At least one won’t be short of chili there.

Winter Menu - DC Taste X Love <3 by Darren Chin

Prelude

"The Belon" : chive oil, fermented rhubarb

"Beets" Smoked cured butterfish; grilled cabbage; oxalis

Butternut squash croquetas: black truffle, sage Chantilly, seafood stew

1st

Fresh Carpaccio of the day (airflown from Hokkaido)

Black Truffle vinaigrette

2nd 

Signature

Takao cold somen: bafun uni, truffle celeriac: vegetal

3rd

3s silky egg custard

Snow crab: foie gras; agrumes

4th

Homage to M. Paul

Red mullet: potato scales: sauce maltaise

5th 

Choice of Mains

Comes with seasonal vegetables from our farm

Supplement add on Jean Larnardie Duck Foie Gras 50g panseared RM70++

Magret de Canard

Charred leeks: crosnes: chive jus

or

16hr slow roasted lamb rack (South Australia)

or

Japanese Matsuka A5 Wagyu 130gm (additional RM210++)

or

1/2 Brittany blue lobster tail poached in lobster butter: lobster sauce americaine (additional RM178++)

6th

Choice of Dessert or Cheese

Desserts by Chef Han

Kaki: persimmon

Clementine sherbet: yuzu curd: sesame wafer: almond crumble

or

"In depth"

light crunch meringue: black sesame pannacotta: red cherries: creme fraiche sorbet

or

Le fromage

5 types of cheese from our cheese trolley

Grand Finale

Mignardises

Assortment of fruit jellies

Cafe ou The

Illy coffee or assortment of Jing tea (additional RM18)

RM438++ per pax

Optional 

Course pairing - Add on Winter Black Truffle (tuber melanosporum) - RM288, a la carte RM75

Discovery Food X Natural Skin Contact wine pairing

Sommelier Selection Food & Wine Pairing Packages 

2 glasses – RM115; 

3 glasses – RM155; 

4 glasses – RM205

Champagne 

1. Larmandier-Bernier Terre de Vertus Non-Dosé 1er Cru 2010 WS 91 RM65 (glass) RM450 (bottle)

Vin Blanc 

2. Domaine Stéphane Ogier, Viognier de Rosine 2016 RP 90 RM60 (glass) RM330 (bottle) 

3. Unico Zelo Esoterico Spices Blend, Adelaide Hills 2016 WS 88 RM60 RM330 (Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Muscat, Fiano) 

Vin Rouge ”Natural Wine” 

4. Lucy Margaux Merlot, Adelaide Hills 2016 WS 88 RM60 (glass) RM250 (bottle) 

5. GD Vajra Clare J.C. Langhe, Nebbiolo, Piedmont, Italy 2016 WS 88 RM60 (glass) RM310 (bottle) 

Dessert Wine 

6. Domaine Zind-Humbrecht Pinot Gris Grand Cru Rangen 2009 WS 94 RM60 (glass) RM320 (bottle) 

www.restaurant-dc.com

NB all prices taken from DC Restaurant website February 2018 and will naturally change over time; do check with the restaurant prior to booking as to whether prices have been updated.

Burgundy and The French Riviera (12 of 12) - Final Thoughts and Reflections

Burgundy and The French Riviera (12 of 12) - Final Thoughts and Reflections

In research for this blog post I found a cute take on Michelin Restaurants on a Youtube comment - everything on the bill, not much on the plate. Which is both not unfair and yet a bit unfair at the same time. I have had some stunning and memorable experiences at some Michelin starred restaurants. I have also had some disappointments where form has overshadowed substance. Which is probably as it should be. Some were brilliant, some not so. So it goes.

Looking back at all the Michelin Starred Restaurants visited both on this trip and the trip to Bordeaux and San Sebastian the previous April 2013, I find myself somewhat fazed and a bit meh with the Michelin concept. Most have been okay, with some dishes occasionally startling, though overall ultimately not quite satisfying. Seems the concept began to give travellers assurance that any listed venue had a standard of food which would not disappoint. In fairness, this remains true - the food at the Michelin restaurants did not disappoint in both preparation, service, presentation and taste. It is perhaps the price point that causes contention. Stars seem to allow the chef to raise the price margin by a premium he or she (mostly he) feels the market will bear. And given their general survival and ability to grow and thrive the market clearly remains happy to support. It is perhaps the "food as art" and the "juxtaposition of textures" and "deconstruction" sections that I don't seem to be able to totally connect with. There seems to be a sacrifice of quantity in the name of art or sensation, with a result that the idea that a restaurant should at root provide a satisfying meal seems to become secondary.  The experience of experiencing food out of its traditional context becomes the goal. Those that do BOTH are well at the top of my tree - Mugaritz I now understand, where the restaurant becomes both theatre and art and performance and school for the senses. Paul Bocuse and Robuchon fit here, with stunningly fresh ingredients impeccably prepared and presented in delightful ambient surroundings. Others seem to ride on a magnificent location and/or the retention of a starred chef - La Chevre D'Or and Mirazur fall here for me where the stunning locations can overshadow any memory of the food.  My standouts remain the steak in Extebarri, the fish in Paul Bocuse, the duck in La Route du Miam, and the chicken and steak in L'Hotel de Beaune. The steak and dinner at Chez Paul and the duck at Le Petit Sud Ouest are also places I hope to return to (and which I since have - Le Petit was excellent, Chez Paul not so). The lamb and potato at Robuchon was amazing, but having done it once then perhaps that is enough. Location wise, as said La Chevre D'Or and Mirazur were unbeatable, the others pleasant enough but not kicking the memory like these. Service wise, all were efficient and even, and none were below very good. Robuchon and Bocuse were standouts in service, but then this is part of the overall experience and one should possibly expect a somewhat higher standard at these establishments. The most memorable remains Marie helping us guzzle our wine at La Route du Miam and the ladies who lunched us at Chateau Palmer and Chateau Pichon Longueville on a previous trip to Bordeaux. 

But there always remains a context, and the one here is my present location on this path of seeking to understand both food and wine and their connections with each other and the world. I'm starting to get it, but I feel my default preferences probably play a greater role than I might be prepared to consciously give enough credence and weight to. Kind of like I aspire to be a gourmand but I retain the soul of a peasant. Looking at the writings, my preference is clearly meat - good, tasty, juicy meat with steak and pork and that Roast Duck and potatoes at La Route du Miam at the top. Next, I do enjoy the more delicate tastes and textures and taste contrasts of the higher end establishments that delight and titillate the tongue and belly. The palate is starting to understand and hopefully appreciate what the various chefs are seeking to do with their ingredients and preparation. The experiments of Mugaritz and the contrasts at Robuchon seared the memory here. The eyes have yet to get it - it still feels a bit poncey and ostentatious and whilst the way the food gets presented is delightfully creative and visually pleasing, the artistry of the presentation doesn't yet totally connect (though thinking back, Akelare in San Sebastian now makes a bit of sense). We pay the chef for his (and her) performance for us, much in the way we pay a singer. It's partly entertainment. I think my issue is the price expected for the performance, though strictly speaking the market determines what this will be - guess it's the Scotsman in me that doesn't really like to shell out so much for the show. But all things in their time. As said, there is always a context which changes as we grow in our palate and its demands for sophistication in tastes and textures. 

There's also a sense of focus on individual dishes and paired wines at the expense of the entire meal experience. How the tastes and textures follow each other and how they are placed in relation to each other tends to get taken for granted in Western cuisine and by me in both writing and eating. Start light, go heavy, finish sweet or cheesy and having appropriate wines at each juncture is pretty much a fixed norm of meal design. It's what we punters and our bellies expect because this is what our palates have been trained to expect. Not saying it's wrong, just that perhaps more attention needs to be paid to meal design than has been given it. Or maybe not. Matching wine is the kicker here. I've said elsewhere that Chinese style banquets alternate between light and heavy textures from dish to dish which gets washed down by tea. And that tea doesn't usually change, whereas in the West the wine is expected to. We have had great times with prosciutto wrapped around rock melon as canape appetizers. It's also a great match with good fizz.  Maybe try starting with fruits to settle the palate and have salads to follow soups to refresh the mouth might be useful experiments in meal design? Naaaaaaahhhh….

Ultimately, though, we mostly eat with our eyes, our nose, our mouth and tongue, and our belly and if we have no cutlery then we eat with our fingers. It was quite telling that when we got back to KL one of the first things we did was to get stuck into some Char Siew Rice which, after all the delicate tastes of the previous fortnight, was like a total homecoming in the belly. Absolute crackerjack with a glass of supermarket Australian chardonnay from the fridge. One of those where a satisfied "Harrrrrghhhhhhhhhh…" ends the meal. Much of the Michelin star food is exquisite, but Char Siew Rice feeds the soul.

Char Siew Rice from Jalan Sultan in KL - total soul food

Interestingly, the wine has become secondary in this Burgundy and South of France trip. Of the Bordeaux Tour in 2013, I retain memories of brilliant lunches and wines in Chateau Palmer, Chateau Pichon Longueville, and Chateau Troplong-Mondot, memories of our first night dinner at Le Cordeillan Bages, and the stellar wines of Chateau Pontet-Canet and many of the other vineyards in the tour. Of this French Riviera tour, much of the wine has gone by the way. It was nice and went well with the food, but there was nothing that really stood out. It was all very good Chablis or Burgundy or Riviera wine, and….   no more. No labels or Domaines made the memory. The one true exception was the champagne at the Hotel du Cap. Bottom end fizz, but given the glamour and history and the ghosts of all the movie stars for whom this place was their playground, it tasted like the drink of the Dauphins. Brilliant memories which I would not trade away. 

In closing, I have been quite astounded at how long this food and wine blog has survived. Coming up to nearly four years. It is something I clearly enjoy giving time to. The act of writing is both cathartic and stimulating and the challenge of seeking to describe restaurant experiences and sensations in words remains fun.

And while perhaps the eloquence lacks in contrast to the more established voices, the style is one that looks to contain and reflect the experience as it happens and as it gets felt. How long the blog is going to last has been troubling me of late. The wine and taste descriptions seem to be becoming a bit repetitive - same old descriptors, same old superlatives - and also running out of restaurants here in KL to write about. They have also become quite expensive thanks to rising food prices, lower economic power Ringgit and the introduction of GST. Notwithstanding exhortations not to raise prices, the establishments visited to date since GST introduction seem to have taken the opportunity to have done so. It has been a whack to the wallet on all occasions. We will go out less or be more selective of our eating destinations.

Further, part of the reason for writing this blog has been to independently reflect on the restaurant experience and share it as honestly and directly as my vocabulary allows with the world. I have opted not to invite partners to advertise. For me, my independence has to be beyond compromise - to let that go is better to pack the whole thing up. Once you get partners, there is an expectation of not being critical to varying degrees (usually complete elimination) for fear of deflecting business - the writing can become sugared and stylised and formula structured and lifeless. It can often become a sell job rather than an attempt at reasoned critique. Not my style. May not get as many readers, but that was never a motivator.

So there seems to be a squeeze on both sides which suggest less opportunities for writing. We shall see. 

My other, and perhaps real reason for writing all of this is as insurance should the Alzheimer creep up and steal the mind; the hope is that these scribblings will jog what little marbles remain and take me back to these places and times when I was a prince of the world and enjoyed some of the finest this life has to offer. With no guilt. Life is short and pleasures are fleeting and I thank every fate and fortune that I was able to visit these places and to be able to enjoy them with some amazing people and friends and with all my senses and faculties intact. Not the least of which was being mobile and having both the breath and the knees to be able to do it all. Reader, go do these things when you have the health to do so - creaky knees will catch up very soon and a holiday in pain ain't fun. You can always buy money but you can never buy your time or your youth or your good health. And as the recent passing of our Dr Gan forcibly reminded, we never know how much gas we have in the tank.

So while I do hope the blog is not coming to an end, I feel it may certainly slow down. There are other writing projects which will need increased focus - my music and movies and some libretto projects - and a foreseeable need to go back to some paid employment to secure a permit to stay here in Malaysia. My retirement is likely over, time to go back to work. So in case there are no more extensive writings, I'd just like to say thank you to everyone who has taken time to read my scribblings and I hope you have found them entertaining and informative. I must also acknowledge the Lenglui, my partner in so many musical and theatrical and gastronomic and oenophilic crimes and adventures - my joy, my light, my muse, my star, it could never be a tenth of so much fun without you to enjoy it all with. Long may they continue. As said, the blog has been a lot of fun and we'll see what the future holds - hopefully many more adventures in food and wine and theatre and music which I will be able to share. Cheers!!