Banfi Brunellos with IWFS at Cicchetti di Zenzero - nice!

Wednesday October 23rd 2019

This was another of those collaborations between the IWFS and AsiaEuro whereby the lovely Michelle invites us to a private event with the winemaker or a representative and we get to sample the good stuff and hopefully get a nice discount on any purchases. In the early stages of the dinner, sample appeared to be the operative word, with a half glass of each of the vertical wines being carefully poured from the bottle into the assembled glasses. But it did liven up once the dessert had been consumed and pouring got a touch more liberal. No complaints at the end of the evening. 

The notice to members shared that Castello Banfi owns an historic 45 hectare estate in Strevi, Piedmont named Banfi Piemonte. Its vineyards are located between the towns of Novi Ligure and Acqui Terme, in an area passionately dedicated to producing the renowned traditional wines of Piedmont. The winery, established in Strevi in 1860, was purchased by Banfi in the late 1970s to complete its Piedmont estate. The Banfi Piemonte portfolio boasts a wide range of products which includes unique sparkling wines, whites, and reds, all of them bearing the prestigious appellations of Piedmont. And that on the night we would experience a vertical tasting of Brunello di Montalcino vintages across 2009 to 2012. Yum.

Downside was that there would only be 40 seats available due to the small size of the restaurant. And all 40 got snapped up by the members within eighteen hours. It is frustrating when so many want to come yet the trend is increasingly for restaurants to only accept diminishing numbers of patrons. Apparently Chef was insistent in not increasing beyond forty - his place has a reputation and stressing the kitchen will necessarily impact. Smart man.

The website says that the Cicchetti (pronounced chee-keh-tee) di Zenzero focuses on "Andar a Cicchetti" which essentially translates to the Venetian version of Tapas - small savoury bites shared across a table with friends and family. Located on Jalan Puncak, which is the road that leads up to the KL Tower, it is the sister restaurant to the more traditional Italian cuisine at Zenzero up and across the road and which has made a good name amongst the KL foodies and bloggers, gaining favourable reports across the board (see https://www.theyumlist.net/2017/11/cicchetti-di-zenzero.html) 

The Cicchetti Bar

The website also notes that the Cicchetti Bar "has a uniquely warm and welcoming atmosphere, where an Ombra (a small glass of wine ) is traditionally served with Cicchetti" and that "Venetians consider this regular ritual essential to a person’s health and well-being, a bit of wisdom many of us are coming to embrace as well." Can't argue with that, eh?  

Lenglui and I and friend Kit were getting a ride for the night from friends who most kindly share their driver to both pick us up and deliver us all back home, meaning we can all have a good skinful. The drive to the place was surprisingly smooth and clear after the early evening rains with the result that we arrived way before the scheduled time for the popping of corks. Quite a number had already arrived, mostly through fear of massive jams coming into KL town and all professed equal surprise at the ease of the traffic. Never can tell. There was one blip where Waze took us up the wrong side street and this precipitated quite a large discussion as to what to do. Eventually the driver turned back and re-entered the main Jalan P Ramlee road and got us straight to the restaurant. Easy when you have researched the thing beforehand. 

Early research also indicated a distinct lack of parking, with advice to the effect of park on the road outside or in the Weld carpark across the road. Again, having a driver negates all this and we successfully alighted at the place. 

Some of the delightful Cicchetti

Eventually the fizz started pouring and there was a delightful spread of nibbles and bites on the bar section to accompany the bubbles. These were clearly the Cicchetti and most tasty they were too. Little pizza squares, bite size bits of doughy bread, pate on small baguette slices. Quite dangerous in filling terms ahead of our dinner, though in retrospect we could have scarfed much more as the four course repast would prove slightly deficient in the amounts on the plates. No bad thing - what it lacked in size it would make up in power. 

The Tener fizz (a NV blend of Chard and SB grapes) was nicely fruity and light and made for a good partner with the nibbles. Though I did note that some of the bibbers stopped after two flutes. Presumably saving space for the reds. I also stopped but then someone at the bar handed me a fresh one. I must have looked thirsty. 

Waiting for the off...

Everyone eventually got seated (though not totally according to my seating plan - everyone on the right tables but some decided to sit differently) and President May gave a speech of welcome and it was get stuck in. A solitary glass of white Vermentino accompanied the Burratina cheese (which looked and tasted a lot like Buffalo Mozzarella) and was all that we would get with it (apart from the house water which felt like free flow). It was a pretty looking dish, full of fresh things and combos that should have gone well together; somehow it all mashed up and slurped down with little in the way of celebration on the table. For me, there seemed to be a tasty match between something balsamic and something honey mustard - the menu doesn't mention it, but it certainly felt more this taste and less Trio Pesto. 

Banfi boy Luca explaining the wines

The wine felt light yet firm and stood up well to the food. The notes speak of "intense fruit forward bouquet of exotic fruit and spices... crisp with well balanced acidity and clean finish." I got apricot and banana which disappeared on contact with food and gave way to a clean gunk cutting mouth and indeed a fresh finish. 

As soon as the white had been swilled, the gannet like staff swiftly pinched the empty glasses off the table whilst we were not looking and brought out the first two reds to pacify the likes of me who like to keep the glass on the table to see how the wine progresses through the evening. Lenglui is presently off the whites so I inherited her pretty much full glass of the Vermentino. 

Which was quite fortuitous as it went extremely and surprisingly well with the Tagliatelle - something about the seven egg yolks and the salt in the cheese and ragu popped the cork delightfully. Very versatile wine. The tagliatelle was very good - firm bite and chew and the earthy mushroom ragout had taste and verve - good dish and pair.

Wish the same could be said for the pairings of the two Brunellos (should the plural be Brunelli?) on show. The 2012 was young and frisky whilst the 2011 was earthy and a bit farmyard on the nose. Texture wise, the 2012 was quite light whilst the 2011 was firm and tending to tannic. As an exercise in vintage contrasts the combo was instructive. Whether they were long term in the bottle (my usual litmus test), on this showing I would not have said so. 

Lot of glasses, eh? 

Which made for interesting conversation with the Banfi reps, who shared that on the previous nights dinner the 2011 shone - 2011, 2010, 2009 and 2012 appeared to be the order of favourite tipple. Though in fairness this should only be straw poll - the food, restaurant, tastes of the punters all go into the mix with the result that ultimately no one is correct save the individual drinker. For me, would have needed a refill in the glass which was not forthcoming - again the gannets were keen and eager to steal the empties. 

Though the Moss seemed to have fortune on his side. As I was approaching him to clink a glass, one of the attendees swept across the floor with a full glass and deposited the thing in front of him. I was unable to contain my reaction of "bastard..." as he gleefully supped on the thing. Some guys have all the luck, eh?

Burratina with Trio of Pesto

The next two vintages proved equally at variance, with the 2009 feeling quite mature and developed (ie drinking now) and the 2010 being the star of the night with its full velvet texture and firm tannins hinting of a good few more years to mature and develop into a stunner. Very tasty Brunello. 

I opted for the Lamb Shank Ossobucco and was pleasantly surprised at the full taste on the thing. Rich tasty jus, full of vim and grip, and soaked up well by the wonderfully light and chewy polenta. Good dish, would come back for this one. Though hopefully there would be a bit more on the plate next time - three smallish lumps seemed a bit thin for the price being paid. Seemed some of the others did not rate the lamb too highly - there you go...

Seven Egg Yolk Tagliatelle

Wine wise, the 2009 fared quite well, with a sweetish note countering the fire of the lamb jus and meat. The 2010 got tamed tannin wise by the jus. Those who had saved a bit of the previous might have found the 2012 matching nicely - youth versus the tender meat - whilst the earthy 2011 made for a somewhat different but no less pleasant pairing. Brunello is definitely a meat wine, clearly needing firm and full bites in the mouth to have something to stand up against. As usual, I have no memory of dessert. My only memory is that a new bottle of 2009 was brought to the table which quickly got sucked down. 

Lamb Shank Ossobucco

I did a bit of schmoozing and wafted from table to table. On one was a full set of untouched reds; seemed the member was a bit off the reds for the moment and opted to have some whiskey instead. I was invited to redeem this sinful wastage and grabbed (fortuitously) the 2010. I do hate to see good booze being left undrunk. 

Dessert

At this time the room started to empty and, whether there was a connection or whether it was preordained, another bottle miraculously appeared. I managed to secure a final slug before getting called to the carriage to be transported home. Nice evening, feeling very mellow.

Lenglui with AsiaEuro's Michelle

Overall, I'd go back to the Cichetti on this showing, though where to park the car would be a brain breaker. Food was tasty, good selection of wines on show, and the ambiance is delightful. Somewhere to go for a romantic date. There is corkage, though word of mouth is that if you show your IWFS Card you get 50% off. Of the wines, Michelle emailed to say some are available for sale. I have put my order in for the 2010 and some Vermentino. Hope they come through (they did!). Cheers!!

THE MENU
Pre - Dinner
Selections of Cicchetti at the Bar
Wine Pairing
Tener Spumante Brut Chardonnay & Sauvignon Blanc NV
__________________
Starter
Burratina with Trio of Pesto
Heirloom Tomatoes Salad, Capers, Capers Powder, Basil Oil,
Trio Pesto; Olives, Eggplant & Artichokes (Vegetarian)
Wine Pairing
La Pettegola Vermentino IGT 2018
__________________
First Course 
Homemade Pasta
7 Egg Yolks Tagliatelle
Mixed Wild Mushroom Ragù & Gorgonzola Cheese
Wine Pairing
Poggio alle Mura Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2011 & 2012
__________________
Main Course
Lamb Shank Ossobuco
Oven Braised served with Soft Polenta 
Or
Free Range Chicken Roulade
Filled with Spinach & Ricotta Cheese, Mashed Pumpkin, Broccoli, Toast Macadamia & Shallots Red Wine Sauce
Wine Pairing
Poggio alle Mura Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2009 & 2010
________________
Dessert
Lingue di Gatto con Cioccolato
Biscuit Cones Filled with Dark Chocolate Mousse Orange Sauce & Orange Salad

The Wines

THE WINES
TENER VINO SPUMANTE BRUT
A special cuvée of Sauvignon Blanc (50%) and Chardonnay, Tener represents the ideal marriage between the vineyard experience of the Montalcino Tuscany estate and the great sparkling wine tradition of Banfi Piemonte cellars in Strevi, Piedmont. Produced in the Méthode Charmat in stainless steel at 16-18° C using yeasts selected for optimal varietal aromas.

Color: pale straw, aboundant mousse, exquisite perlage. 
Bouquet: intense and fruity, with light hints of peach. 
Taste: dry, harmonious and soft on the palate.

WINEMAKER’S NOTES The special blend is exceptionally made with selected high quality Sauvignon Blanc grapes, very seldom used to produce sparkling wines. Tener brut is round, very aromatic, and deliciously tasty. Ideal as an aperitif as well as a companion to seafood and white meats.

LA PETTEGOLA VERMENTINO · TOSCANA IGT
La Pettegola, the new Banfi’s Vermentino, is crafted selecting the best grapes from the Tuscan coast. It is a wine pleasantly intense, sweet, fresh and light that recalls the perfumes of the Mediterranean scrub and expresses the winning combination of tradition and innovation that, since ever, moves the Banfi experience in the world of Tuscan wine.

Color: pale yellow.
Bouquet: very fruity, with notes of apricot, grapefruit, flowers and spices typical of the Mediterranean scrub. 
Taste: full-bodied, with a lively acidity which gives freshness and persistency in the final.

WINEMAKER’S NOTES Most recent white wine born at Banfi, La Pettegola is characterized by its aromatic expression, rich and delicate, as well as for its lively acidity. Ideal for accompanying fish dishes, sea fruit and vegetarian first courses.

POGGIO ALLE MURA
BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO DOCG
From dedicated vineyards sloping down from the historic Poggio alle Mura Castle crowning our estate. We chose this patch of land, particularly suited to grow Brunello Sangiovese, to plant the first vineyard resulting from over a decade of research to isolate the optimal selection of clones to produce consistently outstanding Brunello di Montalcino. The vines were planted in 1992. Altitude: 210-220 meters above sea level. Position: Hillside.
SOIL TYPE Yellowish brown color, sandy topsoil, coarse, calcareous; substract of sea sediment originating from the Pliocene age. Abundant rounded rocks.
GRAPE VARIETIES 100% Sangiovese, from a combination of estate selected clones.
PRODUCTION TECHNIQUE The grape harvest is followed by a maceration of 12-13 days. Alcoholic fermentation takes place in In temperature - controlled hybrid stainless steel & wood tanks (27-29°C). About 90% of the wine is aged for 2 years in French oak barriques - manufactured according to Banfi’s specifications - and the remaining 10% in Slavonian oak casks. Before release, the wine is bottle-aged for an additional 12 months.

Colour: mauve red, intense and very deep. 
Bouquet: complex, but immediately captivating, fresh and sweet; with essences of plum, cherry, blackberry and raspberry jam combined with hints of chocolate, cigar box, vanilla and licorice. 
Taste: muscular and toned, surprising combination of power and softness, with sweet and gentle tannins.

WINEMAKER’S NOTES The first result of more than two decades of experimental research, Poggio alle Mura is a superb example of the best synthesis of terroir, selection and technological innovation. Estate-bottled from the splendid sun drenched vineyard adjacent to the Castello this Brunello encompasses a full body and complexity unique to the genre. Ideal accompaniment to red meat, savory game, and aged cheeses. A wine for meditative contemplation, capable of long-term aging.

Cicchetti di Zenzero, Lot AG1 Amplewest@Menara 6, 
No. 6, Jalan Puncak, 50250 Kuala Lumpur                
Tel +603 2022 2899

Capel Vale Wine Dinner at D’Empire Restaurant - surprisingly okay...

October 10th 2019

Been a while since I posted - last one was in April…  wow...   looking back, figure was a combination of factors revolving around getting depressed over massively intermittent Broadband access causing feelings of non productive uselessness. Could not get the head together to put finger to keyboard. Sometimes I think we men are much like dogs - only happy when we feel useful. Should me more like cats - wtf so long as there is food, milk and tickles...

Anyhow....   I must say I didn't really want to go to this one, but our friend said she had booked a table of ten and could we please help fill the gaps. How to say no?

Reason for the recalcitrance was two fold: first was that we had just landed the day before from a seven day tour around Croatia with a group of foodie friends and we expected to be a bit knackered from the flight; and second was that my memory of a previous Wine Dinner with Capel Vale wines from about fifteen years ago was that the wines were not particularly memorable. Though memorable enough for me to remember the evening...  And Margaret River is on the Bucket List for a visit and a roam around the vineyards sipping the Cabernets. Oh, and three and four fold was that previous food at the D’Empire had proven pleasant but not stunning and it was going to cost about RM300 for the experience. I seem to be getting to be a miserable grumpy old scrooge in my early dotage. Bah.

And Five fold was the screamingly slow traffic that needed forty minutes of negotiation to get to the Pavilion. It is really not pleasant trying to get into KL town of an evening. Most of the time the traffic moves very slowly and sometimes it is dead stop; digression to share a recent experience trying to get to the Hakka Restaurant - the Kia Peng Road was impenetrable and I had to drive up the wrong side and barge my way in. Not the normal way I like to drive but increasingly needs must in the city. You have to be very aggressive in KL these days. 

The Foie Gras and untouched salad

So... we got into D’Empire pretty much on the Eight O'Clock dot to find our table already seated and with glasses of something fizzy being poured. After the usual hellos and how were your holidays, we got stuck in. Seating was what I call Taliban style, with all the ladies at one end of the table and all the men at the other. Think the thinking is that all the men can talk among themselves. As can all the ladies. Seems to work, of a fashion. 

The fizz was a quite pleasant Prosecco, all flighty bubbles and lightly sweet apples and lemon both on the nose and on the tongue. Nice bead which held for quite long and a clean refreshing finish. Nice way to get things going.

The brilliantly seared Salmon

First thoughts - food was good, though steak was absolutely memorable, medium rare and all oozing juice and very good meat. Would happily go back for this. The Foie gras was full taste and excellent with the home baked bread, though I left the salad - never quite trust salad from anywhere; who has washed it and in what kind of water are my usual OCD issues. Is also my first usual suspect of bad belly, so I rarely take it (I also don't really like it, but there you go...). Soup was meaty and full and lush with a dab of cream but ultimately a bit ordinary (what can you do with pureed mushroom?). Salmon was a perfect pan fry and sear, all juicy flakes and perfect cook and the crunchy ratatouille made a useful plate partner. As said, the ribeye was excellent though I can't remember the added risotto and asparagus. Dessert looked pretty though I avoided, preferring to chug on the very drinkable Cabernet Sauvignon that our friend with the bottle seemed happy to pour for the table. 

The excellent Black Angus Ribeye

Winewise, the prosecco was eminently drinkable, the Riesling a bit industrial though with sufficient mouth grip and fruit to compensate, the Chardonnay a bit overoaked and woody, the Shiraz was perky and chewy and the Cabernet the star of the night - good silk in the mouth, full fruit and nicely balanced. Drinking nicely now but should have an extra couple of years in it. The Verdelho was tasty enough if you like dessert wines - they don't drive me though I will still drink them.

Dessert

The staff seemed a fun bunch, with Chef de Cuisine Dallan Tan leading them all out to dance to the keyboard and singer that had been hired to entertain the assembled (about 25 in total). I was called upon to sing a couple of songs to close the evening and we all made our ways home. Despite my misgivings, I ended up enjoying the evening, with both wine and food surprising on the upside. And making new friends around the table is always fun. And finding old friends is also fun - discovered an IWFS Member Peter operates the wine distribution for the Capel Vale wines in KL. Sounds like I might be bending his ear to get some of the Cabs...  hopefully at a generous discount - we are IWFS after all  ;D

Chef Dallan Tan with new friends

The Pavilion is a bugger after 10pm because they shut down most of the escalators which makes it a double bugger to try and retrace to where you parked the car. As it was, the Lenglui displayed an unusual level of sensory awareness and figured out which lift to take to the parking level and where the car was parked. She never ceases to amaze...

Menu

Welcome Drink

Masottina Prosecco Extra Dry DOCG

First Course
Foie Gras De Canard, baby greens, caramelised grapes
Masottina Prosecco Extra Dry DOCG

Second Course
Wild Button Mushroom Soup
Capel Vale Mt Barker Riesling

Third Course
Norwegian Salmon, ratatouille, lemon cream sauce
Capel Vale Margaret River Chardonnay

Fourth Course
Australian Angus Black Ribeye Dry Aged 21 days
Red wine rosotto, sauteed button mushroom, aspaaragus
Capel Vale Mt Barker Shiraz
Capel Vale Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon

Fift Course
French Garnache with Truffle Chocolate, Vanilla Ice Cream
Roustabout Late Harvest Verdelho

IWFS KL with Katnook Estate Wines at OpenHouse - fair

Kudap Kudap - Malaysian Crackers

Katnook Estate Winemaker's Dinner at OpenHouse, Suria KLCC

February 21st 2019

The emailed notice for this event saw President May extending a very Happy New Year wish to all IWFS KL Members with an expectant hope for a year of good food, wine, company and memories for all. 

The notice also gave details of the February event to be held at the OpenHouse in Suria KLCC on 21st February 2019. It was to be an exclusive Society evening with Katnook Estate wines, and would be hosted  the Principal of Katnook Estate Ms Alison Hardy in partnership with AsiaEuro Wines. Seemed that this year marked the 20th Anniversary of the launch of the winery's flagship Cabernet Sauvignon, named Odyssey, and attendees were scheduled to enjoy the launch of the 2013 vintage along with a vertical tasting of previous Odyssey vintages with dinner. AsiaEuro are hugely supportive of the IWFSKL and offer access to wines that might not otherwise come available in the normal swing of wine dinners. Good discounts too.

Oxtail Soup with Garlic Toast

Katnook Estate is located on 180 hectares in South Australia's Coonawarra region nearly halfway between Melbourne and Adelaide. Katnook is rated 5-star in James Halliday’s Wine Companion 2019 whilst two Katnook wines are currently included in the prestigious Langton’s Classification V11 of Australian Wines. Katnook focuses on Cabernet Sauvignon and the webbie notes wine writer James Halliday in July 2018 describing the Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon : " A majority of the grapes grown in Coonawarra go into a making a 100 per cent varietal wine. Expect a medium-bodied style with a supple palate and balanced tannins. The range of fruit flavours in the wine is largely influenced by the vintage and winemaker, covering cassis, blackcurrant, redcurrant, blackberry and mulberry when the wine is young. With age, these flavours develop into distinctive earthy, savoury and spicy characteristics."

The webbie says Katnook "aims to make wines which show subtlety, intrigue and complexity. Reflecting the essence of Coonawarra’s terroir is integral to Katnook's winemaking approach.  Cabernet Sauvignon is the undoubted hero of the Coonawarra region. However other red varietals such as Shiraz and Merlot are equally impressive. White wines are similarly unique in character and world class in quality."

Garden Ambience of the OpenHouse

The restaurant itself is located at the heart of Kuala Lumpur city center KLCC, just up and along from the landmark Chinoz on the Park. I felt the signage could be better - it is a dark shingle above a channel in the wall and a bit easy to miss. The website holds that the OpenHouse is a "modern Malaysian restaurant weaving generational recipes, a delightful space and warm hospitality into a finer dining experience." It plays on the concept of Malaysians "opening their houses" to friends and family at Festive times and having loads of food to share with everyone. The webbie continues - "One of Malaysia’s most endearing and unique experience is of “open houses” during festive seasons. It is a celebration of welcoming family, friends and sometimes even strangers to our homes to partake in the festivities over food and drinks. Special dishes are prepared, the house is dressed up for the occasion and Malaysians extend their warm hospitality welcoming guests to our homes. It is this unique Malaysian tradition that is sought to be brought to OpenHouse."

Deep Fried Tiger Prawn - pretty, yes? Tasty too...

The Maitre D' is Effendie, an old friend of the IWFS going back to Cilantro, Soleil and a few other establishments of note. He welcomed everyone he recognised and it is always good to see a friendly face when you come through the door. Seems that our group was the first large scale the restaurant had to cope with. Outside of the lack of welcome glasses, I thought they did pretty well - the glasses got refills on request and the food came out as quickly as it could. Friendly and attentive and discreet - what more needed?

The Duo of Poultry - Chicken and Duck

The decor itself is warm and welcoming, though as said perhaps a shade dark at the entrance. The place sits 42 (just) and there was extra room in a bar area for people to presumably sit before being escorted to tables. 

The Duo of Red Meat - Lamb and Venison

Members were thronging around the entrance and tables and getting the booze flowing. Though none of it would flow my way for a good seeming ten minutes due to there being insufficient glasses to accommodate the new entrants. So whilst others were clearly getting a second refill, the new arrivals were being left to thirst. Not good planning here - I had to bark a couple of times to get the staff moving. Eventually the glassware surfaced and some of the pleasant and easy drinking first white soothed the aching and stressed out brow and the evening was back in decent sync. Very nice Chardonnay, tropical with banana and hazelnut notes in the mouth and with sufficient friskiness to titillate and slake. 

The Keria Churros - wicked good

The notice said that the kitchen has "rediscovered traditional recipes, and royal household recipes to create modern Malaysian cuisine. Recipes that have been passed down through generations, and respectfully renewed for today.  We have also foraged our rainforest for jungle produce. With a multi-cultural history, rich biodiversity and natural hospitality, OpenHouse weaves a magical modern Malaysian dining experience at the heart of Kuala Lumpur just below the Petronas Twin Towers." The place came well recommended by a number of the members and all were keen to repeat the experience. Fair enough. And the chef apparently was once with the erstwhile mentioned Chinoz On The Park but presumably set off for pastures new. Clearly the new pasture was not too far away.

(l to r) Dr Rajan, Stephanie, Mubina, Ajmal, May Peng and AsiaEuro's Michelle

Well and yes and I guess I got most of the concept. Traditional well made Malaysian cuisine in an upmarket setting made sense. There has not really been a fine dining Malaysian cuisine restaurant that showcases the best of such traditions and OpenHouse makes a fine front runner for such a concept. I can see it becoming a "go to" destination for visitors inquisitive enough to want to understand and enjoy the opulent grandeur of the setting. Smart thinking by the owners and operators of the place. I wish them success. 

Vanessa and Jessica

Again no notes of the food at the table and the memory now has faded, though I do seem to recall enjoying the food and the company and the wines. Visually, very good plating. I certainly remember scarfing down all the churros of both my serving and that of the Lenglui. Which suggests that the food was a shade insufficient to quench such evident burning hunger. The crackers were similar to those one finds in Indonesian establishments and eaten similarily with fresh ground chili sauce, the prawn was hugely fresh and with very good bite, Ox Tail stew was meaty and full of vim. The duck was full and firm and crispy skin salt tasty though the turkey lacked somewhat in taste terms for me. The lamb was good, the venison also, and all went well with some delightful Cabernets. They all naturally tasted similar, though the older ones presented better on the night than the tannic young ones. All have pretty good ageing potential, though the 2013 seemed more robust and balanced. The Katnook website notes that the Katnook Odyssey 2013 is: "One of 53 wines listed in the ‘Outstanding’ category of the Langton’s VI, Classification of Australian Wine. This 20th release is rated 96 points in Halliday's 2019  'Wine Companion'." It was good and drinkable but for me lacking somewhat in heft and body. I like my Cabernets with a firm whack in the throat and chest and with that velvet silkiness that coats the throat with unspeakable loveliness and bite - almost chewy and a drop that you want to keep and swirl around the mouth forever. Napa do them perfectly - Joseph Phelps Insignia and one whose name escapes me at the moment which I bought during a trip to New York. Also the Tom Price I shared with the Rubber Baron at the Butcher's Table - Cabs that seared their way into the brain and soul. I didn't quite get that with the Odyssey. Well made and excellent with the lamb and steak and certainly way less bold than some of the tannic monsters I have previously drunk. But just missing that texture that for me marks the good from the great. Guess I have to try more Aussie Cabs. 

Lenglui and Hans

Would I go back? Not entirely sure on this showing… but this showing does not allow the place to show off in its more natural context (ie covers coming in at an easier pace rather than looking to serve 42 mouths at one go. I do seem to recall the kitchen slowing a bit in its output during the night. No bad thing - allows one to get up and chit chat with the rakyat. Some of the dishes mentioned by previous patrons were not on the menu, so again a need to return and check out the specials and recommendations. Have to check the corkage too; old friend Affendi is in control of the place. 

OpenHouse staff surprising President May with a Birthday Cake and song

THE MENU

Pre Drinks

Kudap Kudap - Malaysian crackers

Katnook Estate Chardonnay 2015

Appetiser

Deep Fried Tiger Prawn, Murasaki Potato served with Horseshoe Crab Rice Kerabu

Katnook Estate Chardonnay 2015

Soup

Oxtail Kepayang Black Nut with Garlic Toast

Katnook Odyssey Cabernet Sauvignon 2004

Duo of Poultry

Smoked Duck Breast with Ingkung Sauce and Sapodilla Salsa

Pan Seared Roulade of Turkey stuffed with Sambal Kelapa

Katnook Estate Odyssey Cabernet Sauvignon 2006

Katnook Estate Odyssey Cabernet Sauvignon 2009

Duo of Red Meat

Rolled of Baked Venison Rendang and Renday Gravy

Pan Seared Lamb Cutlet with Sultana and Spice Sauce

Katnook Odyssey Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 and 2009

Dessert

Keria Churros

Orange Sweet Potato, Wheat Flour, Milo and Caramel Salted Butter

Coffee or Tea

Open House, 

G48 and 139 Ground and First Floor Suria KLCC, 

Jalan Ampang, 50088 Kuala Lumpur

Tel +603 2162 0888

website: https://www.openhouse.my/

Natural Wines at Roost: Yum food, yuck wine...

Gin One at the Mercat

March 14th 2019 - Went for a Natural Wine event at Roost in Bangsar last night. Roost is one of the pioneer farm to plate and as natural as can get it eateries in Kuala Lumpur. We were last there a couple of years back for a friend's birthday and had not opportunity nor reason to return. So when friend Kit whatsapped the flyer to us we figured to give it a go. 

I have to say that as yet I can't quite get into the natural wines. The biodynamics, yes but the natural and organics, no. Somehow the biodynamic wines leave all the artisan and natural in the shade; I have had some stellar naturals but in the main they all seem to have that slight vinegar tinge about them, a sharp acetic zap in the mouth that I don't quite find friendly as compared to the usual plonk. Presumably it can be acquired, and respect to all winemakers who resist the path to easier viticulture. I just can't quite get the taste for them at this time…

Natural and organic have been de rigeur for years and getting out of the way and letting nature do what nature does seems a fair strategy. But nature needs sometimes to be nurtured and channelled to prevent odd tastes getting into the juice and denigrating from the wonder that can result with a little bit of creative viticulture. And I do somewhat rebel at what can occasionally become an automatic monklike reverence for the Natural winemakers as they pursue their saintly mission to produce wines as close to the earth as naturally possible. They are artisans and we should revere them for their dedication and commitment. Well and maybe, but if the stuff they produce leaves a sour taste in the mouth…

Gin Two at the Mercat

Lenglui and I deliberately got there a shade early to line the mouth with one each of The Mercat's excellent Gin mixes. They occasionally showcase new gins for us punters to try and the ones on show tonight were delightful - a traditional style from the Oregon pre prohibition era and a floral Spanish fruit bomb which was total gangbusters with some added strawberry - one of the best and freshest tastes I have had for a while, reminiscent of those ice cream filled fruit lollies we would get as kids from the store. Not cheap though - RM65 for a double - but close the eye to this one. So, so good. 

We made our way to Roost, meeting two fellow guests on the way, climbed the stairs and found our table. The room is a minimalist echo chamber with hard walls, floors and tables and very little in the way of sound absorption making meaningful conversation pretty difficult for the marginally deaf like myself. Felt more like a school canteen with the kitchen on one end alongside which our table was parked. 

Goat Cheese and Fig Salad. Okay...

The wines had been brought in by Straits Wine, and though I have had regular contact with the firm over the years, none of the people pouring the wines looked at all familiar. So it goes. I did get recognised by old friend Victor who was still bringing in his Spanish Passion delights for the Malaysian palate and plate. Always good to see an old face. 

Foodwise, the bread and wagyu butter with a sprinkling of fried shallots was stellar. Melt in the mouth creamy salty fat and shallot crunch on fresh wholewheat bread is a little taste of heaven. The Raventos Blanc de Blancs fizz was a good yeasty match with very fine bead that did not quite rinse the mouth but went down pleasantly nonetheless. There was something almost a bit prep school and wholesome about the fizz, kind of like a liquid Richard Quest from CNN, all zap and zest and jolly but a little acerbic underneath it all. Different from the usual bubbles,  a nice bit of bite on the mouth and finish.

The ceviche was a shade firm though full of taste though the condiments seemed to lack something in the fire they were presumably supposed to lend - coriander felt a bit limp and needing a boost of verve. The soft shell prawn in the bun was excellent - batter, crunchy prawn and mouth friendly chinese steamed bun combined with the kimchi to produce a taste and texture that was at once full and filling yet sparked with crispy bites to crunch through to the fire that lay at the base of the submarine bun. Kind of KFC Crispy Prawn Hot Dog. Wonderful. 

The excellent Chicken Liver Pate

It was being matched with a Chard that was just the wrong side of artisan for me - it had that sharp acetic quality that I seem to find in many of the natural wines I come across in these food and wine adventures. The batter did take the edge off the Chard, but a buttery Chablis would have sent the thing ballistic.

The superb Chicken Liver pate was being matched with a Pedro Ximinez Spanish dry sherry style that seemed a bit confused - it was at once sweetly unctuous whilst at the same time dry and almond nut chewy. Good, but somehow artisanal in feel and not quite sure who or what it was looking to be. The sweet aspect lent the pate a base on which to sit but I couldn't quite fathom the match between them. Perhaps I just didn't like this style of wine, though I do enjoy a good oloroso with the best of them. 

The Goats Cheese and Salad and Mushroom Padano came out almost together and were being paired with some red. At this point, things seemed to be getting somewhat over wholesome. The Padano had that husky oatbran feel about it whilst the wine was very barnyard and somewhat frizzante, as if some yeast had been left in the bottle and had kicked up some bubbles. And again, that slight acetic mouthfeel that, frankly, on this occasion made me want to spit. You have to like that wholesome veggie style of cuisine, and whilst I occasionally do the attempted match with these wines just did not work for me. And while the artisan wineries do look to romance with the best of them, piss and vinegar is still piss and vinegar.

Ceviche of Grouper

Lenglui had been passing her wines and food to me for clearance and hoovering most of the night. At the taste of the red, though, we decided that enough was enough. Equally, I was feeling a bit woozy and my head was starting to spin. So I claimed legitimate JetLag, made my excuses, paid our bill and left. 

Overall, Roost offers enjoyable food that would have sung with higher caliber wines. Not sure if they charge corkage, but given that some of these wines were on their winelist then perhaps better to bring and pay. Or stay at the Mercat with the Gin cocktails and their excellent porky bites. I was not overawed by the canteen ambience, though the passion in the place is evident and to be celebrated. For me. the lesson has been learned. No more natural wines for the Gwailo. Or the Lenglui. As the fridge magnet says, Life is Too Short to Drink Grim Wine. Amen.

Menu

Ciabatta Bread and Wagyu Butter

Ceviche of Grouper, Miso, Chili and Coriander

Steamed Bun with Soft Shell Prawn and Kimchi

Chicken Liver Pate on Charred Bread

Goats Cheese, Pecan, Figs, Vinaigrette, Salad, Chicken Innards

Mushroom "Barleyotto" Padano

Capunti, Scallops, Estragon

Croquettes of Confit Duck and Foie Gras

Wagyu Rump Tartare, Chips, Caviar and Herbs

Local Chees (Opal, Tomme, Sarawak)

Wines

Not a clue other than the Raventos Blanc de Blancs NV - left before could take a photo. 

The Crispy Prawn Bun - wonderfully satisfying

Roost

69.1 Jalan Telawi 3

Bangsar Baru

Kuala Lumpur

tel: +603 22011710

website: www.roostkl.com

Yen Restaurant at W Hotel - Hits and Misses

February 20th, 2019

Got invited by the Lenglui's Godfamily to try the food at the Yen Restaurant in the relatively new W Hotel on Jalan Ampang. Parking in the complex would prove easy (though stiff at RM25 for our three plus hours) and the lift took us straight to the door where we got ushered through the spacious main area into the equally spacious private room at the back. This was actually quite special, affording a vista view to the twin towers and a look down into the cratered and scorched earth that is the remains of what was once the glorious Bok House. Better et this view while you can, chances are whoever owns this plot of land will build on it and block the view (or should that be "Bok" the view... no). 

Table in the Yen Private Room

14 of us were parked around a massive red round lacquer table on solid and immoveable chairs. Our host has been a follower of the Chef here at the Yen through his time at the Renaissance, the Shangri La and a couple of other places. I remember his pig at the Renaissance as being finestkind and his Hokkien Mee is still the taste of legend. On his move to the Shang Palace, the pork aspect needed to be sidelined as the hotel became halal (ostensibly to easier facilitate business from the non pork consuming section of Malaysian society) and equally here at the W is was no pork. 

The dried scallop was indeed dry, though mostly as a result of the crab meat lacking any juice whatsoever (though not lacking in bits of shell that needed expectorating) - I have had better elsewhere. The Szechaun Eggplant was special request and on tasting it I remembered why - fiery spitz on the tongue yet with a sweet caramel sauce and the gunge of well cooked strips of brinjal were dynamite.

Soup - magnificent

The soup that followed was epic - Chinese Herbal with the usual boiled dry chicken and rubber chewy abalone, but serving it in a coconut and allowing the flesh to cook in the heat brought an amazingly delightful and sweet touch to the broth. The single Garlic chip on the plate was presumably for salt taste - I crunched it down on its own and it was a cracking little snap on the tongue; could happily have platefuls of these with beer and football. One of the better soups I have had, ever. 

The Giant Grouper had been cooked and cut and doused with its juice and chili. It was still cooking over those candles and I think by the time it got to me it had just flipped into overcook. My small chunk was firm and drying. So it goes. Would perhaps have liked to have seen the boy before it got drawn and quartered to assess the size. I did not touch the beancurd - I have a serious jones about beancurd; last two times I ate it the thing seemed to dislodge stones in the kidney and cost a shedful of ringgit to get treated. The Gwailo does not do beancurd. 

Serving of the Giant Grouper

I enjoyed the beef ribs. Mouth melt, tender, taste, no strings - I thought it extremely well prepared and presented and would happily have taken this home for breakfast. Not sure about the wine or the broth - there was a gravy looking substance on the dish, so perhaps this was it. Very rich, finestkind. Worth a return for this.

Beef Short Ribs

In contrast, the Oyster was awful - metallic, undercooked, and with that baked cheesy gunk on top. Darn sad - it was one of those humungous Pacific boys and would probably have been magnificent with just a dab of lemon juice. Definite fail for me and the Lenglui, though the rest of the table wolfed them down molto gusto. Maybe not a Western taste. 

Oyster. Pretty grim, sad to say

I passed on the Abalone and Sea Cucumber as usual and was thus able to get stuck into the Hokkien Mee. When it comes to this dish, Chef is absolute legend. People still remember his cooking it from twenty years previous. As do I - the stuff we would have at the Renaissance was brahma, sublime, whatever similar word you can come up with. Rich black sauce, not overly sweet, firm noodles, lots of tasty pork and ladles of Chee Ho Jiak (deep fried croutons of pork fat) - ho, ho seck. One that is totally seared in the memory. 

Abalone and Sea Cucumber

In a non pork environment, Chef turns to chicken and prawn for the proteins and created a wildly tasty substitute of Duck Fat for the Lard. It worked extremely well, giving that fatty crisp bite in the mouth to coat the mee and the meat. In this, the prawns were some of the freshest and best I have tasted for a while - excellent bite on these boys. One can only lament the absence of connection between chef and pork, though this was far from a bad dish. But O, the Hokkien Mee of the past….

The Pork Free Hokkien Fried Mee

Dessert

Dessert was… okay, I guess. Almond Milk is a new experience for me, and I think I got it. Gingko beans lent a sweet vegetal crunch, and I guess the snow fungus gives a fibrous rubber like texture. The Green Tea Yam was actually pretty tasteless on its own but it became the perfect crunchy foil for the amazingly tasting Salted Egg Yolk in the middle. Absolute belter - gooey egg with layers of taste and texture was wonderful - Asian version of a Cadbury's Creme Egg but savory over sweet. Someone offered me another - I opted to refuse, preferring to savour this brilliant mouthfeel of gunk and goo. Belter of a taste. 

Drinks were Chinese Tea and a couple of New Zealand Pinots which were well received and the light texture and cherry pop mouth matched quite nicely with most of the dishes. This group enjoy a little taste of the wines but I don't think they drink sufficiently to warrant investing over the longer term. Never mind - happy to share the booze. 

Ambience and views were excellent, the service was attentive and polite and efficient (though I decided to take over wine pouring duties for the table - a shade slow in this regard). 

So…  the hits were brilliantly on target whilst the misses were pretty grim. Overall, quite enjoyable (though would have been more so had I opted for a lighter lunch). Worth a visit, though I can't see a return for me in the near future - RM25 to park the car? Nope. Better to park up in KLCC and walk across, though that can be a whack as well…

Menu

MENU 

Dried Scallop, Fish Maw, Scrambled Eggs, Crab Meat, Bean Sprout, Szechaun Egg Plant, Lettuce Leaf

Double Boiled Anoectochilus Soup, Abalone, Farm Chicken, Yunnan Aged Black Garlic, Whole Coconut

Steamed Giant Grouper Fish, Hinan Yellow Fermented Chili, Beancurd Sheet

Slow Cooked Grain Fed Wagyu Beef Short Ribs, Aged 10 Years Hua Diao Wine, Chinese Herbs Broth

Baked Japan Oyster, White Sauce, Cheese

Braised Abalone, Sea Cucumber, Pomelo Peel, HK Sprout Vegetables

Briased Local Hokkien Noodle, Sliced Prawn, Chicken, Duck Crackling

Sweetened Amond Cream, Snow Fungus, Gingko Nuts, Natural Peach Resin

Crispy Green Tea Yam Dumpling, Creamy Salted Egg Yolk Filling

Wines

2013 White Cliff Pinot Noir NZ

2016 Giesen Pinot Noir NZ