IWFS KL President Dinner 2016 at Sage - most excellent!

December 3rd 2016

The President's Dinner – the Society’s black tie gala dinner and the Premiere event of our IWFS Kuala Lumpur Calendar – was once again being held at Sage Restaurant on Saturday, 3rd December. It had been decided to bring it forward this year to avoid a clash with an overseas IWFS event being staged the following weekend. And to have deferred the dinner to the following week would have impinged too much on the Yuletide Holidays. So forward it had to come.

Sage ambiance in natural light

There was also much discussion as to whether to hold the dinner at a new venue. It was ultimately decided to remain with Sage for this year – Committee felt Chef Daniel’s creations remain at the forefront of excellent cuisine in Kuala Lumpur and both the food and wine service continue to be the standard for others to attain. And it is nice to go back there at least once a year and get all dolled up in best bibs and tuckers and frocks. Like going to revisit an old friend. Which was made more attractive by the anonymous donations to the dinner of 6 bottles of Bollinger and a case of 2001 Chateau Pichon-Lalande to be supped with the dinner. This also apparently helped in keeping the dinner price at the same RM550 whilst allowing the Society to maintain the standard of wines expected of an IWFS Dinner and keeping costs sufficiently attractive for the Rakyat to sign up. 

It had also been decided that some musical entertainment would help in establishing an elegant tone for the evening. Which some might take to infer that inelegant tones had been established at previous IWFS beanos which is far from the case. As a result, a string quartet had been engaged to perform during the dinner and sponsored by Mrs President Teh Pitt Lee who was showered with thanks all through the evening.

Table setting in natural light

One downside of bringing the President Dinner forward was that many of the big hitters at the charity wines auction would not be in attendance. Seems they were all together overseas and only returning on the 4th. Equally, it had been voiced that given the present state of the economy then perhaps expecting similar auction proceeds as in previous years might be misplaced. Didn't stop the bottle donations from the members though - got a healthy 40 lots for the night which was most generous. The charities were once again the Special Children's Society of Ampang (SCSA) and Society for the Severely Mentally Handicapped, Selangor and Federal Territory (SSMH). Both of these organisations carry out tremendous work in enabling those less able than most to gain degrees of independence that would otherwise remain beyond wild dreams. Worth to check out their websites to see the work they do - www.scsoa.org.my       www.ssmh.org.my

As a Committee member who got invited to some of their lunches, I had seen first-hand the work that is carried out and the severe disabilities the kids (and their parents) at these places look to cope with. The staff and volunteers are phenomenal people who make a point to assure the members of their grateful appreciation for the support that the IWFS KL affords them.

The Pichon, Smith Haut Lafitte and the Volnay. Yum.

At last year's dinner, the remarkable generosity of our members by way of cash and wine auction bids meant that IWFS Kuala Lumpur raised RM190,000 in one single night. Anecdotally, I hear that the IWFS is the envy of the fund raising community - they marvel at the fact that we can raise so much with comparatively little effort. We had been exhorted by President David in the Dinner Notice to "please dig deep into the pocket and raid the wine fridge or cellar with reckless abandon. The funds raised go to exceedingly worthy destinations. The bar has been raised. Let us seek to excel." 

As I had been landed with being one of the auctioneers and also in charge of organising the seating, I decided to get there early just to check all was on schedule. Thankfully it was - as Maitre' D had earlier promised in email exchanges, the menus had been printed with attendees names and placed according to my layout. Perfect. I was able to scuttle off to the loo to climb into the monkey suit in peace. 

Chef final checking whilst President makes a speech 

Committee Members started arriving in quick succession, each sorting out their own responsibilities. Arranging the auction booze on the tables proved a bit time consuming - there was a need to make sure they were all placed in order so as to avoid an incorrect bottle being knocked down. Other members and squeezes started pitching up, and corks popped on schedule at 7.20pm with all the six donated Bollys getting quaffed within ten minutes. I think they were good - they barely touched the sides of the collective throat. It was then on to the Jacquessons which proved delightful. All attendees so far had proven wonderfully compliant with the dress code of Black Tie and Elegant Dress, though Doctor Willie showed up not wearing the Medallion - we withheld his glass of bubbles until he had rectified the transgression. The fizz went fantastically well with the firm and amazingly textured Ocean Trout canapes. The Duck was equally good, though it paled a bit in the shadow of the Trout. In fairness, Beluga Caviar would have paled - the Trout was that good. 

I find that there is something… affirming and pleasant in seeing everyone decked out and resplendent in their finery. Dare I say the word "class" but it does come close. Looking classy and being a member of a group that gets the privilege to do so and go to these kind of parties is something I feel we should never take for granted. "We are truly privileged," I said to Mizz Kit as we walked from the fizz into the room. She agreed. 

And before anyone points the finger and says "You were there in company other than Lenglui??!??" - yes, no Lenglui on the night. She had been called to a family gathering in Singoland and was missing the fun. The delightful Mizz Kit was my carriage for the night, with her godson doing a bit of part time private driving for a few shekels. No need to worry about staying in reasonable shape for driving for a welcome change. 

The Kiwi and Squeeze. Make that Doctor Squeeze...

We all started to get seated, but not before one slight wrinkle caused by someone who had sought to change the seating by shifting the named menus around without consulting me. I snapped at the suspected individuals concerned that to have attempted to do so was extremely bad form, completely unacceptable and totally unbecoming of the behaviour to be expected of IWFS KL Members. The member concerned sought to blame his/her guest for making the attempted seat change. Hmmm. I stormed off after replacing the menus in their correct places. Pissed me right off - had to go for an extra glass of fizz to ease down. Some people have no respect for these things, eh? Thankfully all this got resolved before anyone had actually sat down - might have been fireworks otherwise. 

President David got up and gave what felt like a somewhat lengthy but ultimately very good welcome speech (well, he is a Rotarian - my experience is they will get up and make a speech at the slightest prompting) and then we were off. I made few to no notes of the dishes or wines, preferring to just sit back and enjoy the whole experience. Though the first course Carpaccio of Buri fish was a knockout. Those of us who saved some of the fizz could sip it with the dollop of Avruga Caviar parked on the plate. Wicked dish. I found the accompanying Remondo clean and lean and in great balance though perhaps a shade puny and lacking sufficient oomph in looking to face down the fish. The Risotto and Foie Gras in Port Wine Sauce was another rich and sinful experience, made all the more so with the chunks of bread and butter on which the Foie Gras got spread and sucked. O my Lord…  The Volnay was an excellent choice, all sweet apples and steel minerality. Lovely wine. 

Carpaccio of Buri Fish

As dinner began, the string quartet had begun playing. During soundcheck, I had thought them a tad loud and wondered if they would drown the room. It proved not - their tunes were loud enough to be heard but not so that they overwhelmed conversation. Thoughtful selection of music too - classics, musicals, operettas - very tasteful and indeed setting an elegant tone. 

The Kiwi and I did our first stint of auctioning and seemed to get a fair response bid-wise before getting back to the table for the Lamb. Two cutlets together which produced a startlingly good mouthful of the most tender juicy meat. The mouth is salivating at the memory of it - succulent, perfect texture, perfectly cooked. It was a no brainer going with the Pichon Lalande which was spot on form. Though the wine of the night was the 2005 Smith Haut Lafitte - full, velvet, power, finish and totally delectable with the lamb. Great pairing. 

The brilliant and tasty Rack of Lamb

The second auction session was a bit more intense, with some of the serious bottles coming under the hammer (or knuckles in my case - I was rapping the lectern with them when the lot got knocked down for effect). It has also become tradition to sing "Happy Birthday" to the winning bidder, this having been initiated by the Dato Gang at previous auctions. It breaks ice and gives the recorders time to accurately note who actually made the bid and get their details. 

Dessert

The last lot got knocked down and the winners of a silent auction got announced and it was back to the table for dessert and the delightful Kracher which lived up to its name - crunchy fruit and slippery honey brilliantly balanced and sipping like a drop of nectar from Dionysus himself. 

President David and Chef Daniel

President David had also decided to honour Chef K K Chong a.k.a. Daniel with a Certificate for his continuing application to turning out amazing dishes for us punters. Having spent years learning from Chef Takashi Kimura at both the Cilantro and the Sage restaurants, Chef Daniel took the helm of the Sage kitchen when completion of Cilantro renovations necessitated Chef Kimura's return. Over our time and association with Sage, Chef Daniel has shown himself hugely dedicated to both the preparation and presentation of food, and consistently delivers some of the finest Japanese French fusion cuisine in the region. He has said: "Food is like a work of art. The plate is my canvas. The ingredients are my paint. The customers are my critique." Chef did seem a shade overwhelmed by the three cheers he received after his thank you speech. Good for him - he is driven by the search for excellence and the stretch of his creativity to find it. He deserves every accolade available. 

Singing up a storm!

There seemed to be a late flurry of activity as people sought to add donations (prompting President to go to the microphone to announce them) with the result that the total raised was not far off previous years efforts. Which is actually darn well done and a big hearty thank you to everyone who donated. Serious props and kudos to all - the charities will be well pleased. 

And that was it. Most left in search of carriages or Uber whilst the usual diehards cracked open whatever was left - some fizz and dessert as memory serves - and sang up some songs. Sadly all the red had gone though there were swathes of both the Pichon and the SHL left in glasses on the table. I fail to understand how people can not drink such magnificent wines as these and at this time of the night the little wine devil inside takes over and demands that it be consumed. It just feels totally sacrilegious to leave something that the winemaker has poured his or her soul into creating to the ignominious fate of the kitchen sink. Consequently, a couple of the SHLs got poured into a glass which became my one for the road. And a wonderful one it was too. That little wine devil can make shame take a back seat when it comes to booze that is this good. 

This will probably be the last post before Christmas, so all my best wishes and compliments of the Festive Season to everyone and a hope that 2017 will be a happy, healthy and safe one for you and your loved ones. With lots of great food, wine and great times with great friends. Cheers!

Cheers!!

THE MENU

Note – wines are added in the food and sauce to enhance the flavour of the dish

Canapés

Glazed Duck Breast with Daikon, Confit Ocean Trout with Shiokombu

Bollinger Champagne NV

Jacquesson 737 NV Bollinger Brut Reserve Champagne NV

First Course

Carpaccio of Buri Fish with Avruga Caviar and Wasabi Kotsuka

Placet Palacios Remondo 2012

Second Course

Buckwheat Risotto with Hokkaido Scallop, Foie Gras and Port Wine Sauce

Domaine Comte Lafon Santenots-du-Milieu, Volnay 1er Cru 2011

Palate Cleanser

Fresh Mango Granité with Cointreau Cream

Main Course

Fish – Pan Roasted Tai Fish with Tsubugai and Tonburi Beurre Blanc

Alternatively

Lamb - Slow Cooked Almond Crusted Hillside Lamb Rack with Mustard Sauce

Alternatively

Beef – Black Angus Beef Striploin with Spanish Anchovies Butter and Red Wine Sauce

Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte 2005 

Chateau Pichon-Lalande 2001

Dessert

Adzuki Nougat Glace with Green Tea Anglaise and Tuile

Kracher Beerenauslese Cuvee 2009

Coffee or Tea

A happy bibber

THE WINES

Jacquesson 737 Champagne

A quote from Stephen Tanzer sums up this superb 91 pointer: “Pale gold. Complex, highly fragrant aromas of pear skin, honeydew and orange pith, with musky floral and mineral qualities gaining strength in the glass. Silky and expansive on the palate, offering intense, well-delineated citrus fruit and tarragon flavors lifted by chalky minerality. At once powerful and lithe, finishing with excellent thrust and lingering notes of orange and smoky minerals." Tanzer is one of numerous tasters giving over 90 pts rating.

Bollinger Champagne NV

The Special Cuvée is the result of the delicate blending between harvest grapes and a majority of reserve wines, part of which have been aged in magnums for 5 to 15 years. The blend is constant, drawing on reserve wines for 60% Pinot Noir, 25% Chardonnay and15% Meunier. The grapes are sourced from over 85% Grands and Premiers crus and cellar aged for more than twice the time required by the appellation. And yes, it has long association with Double Oh Seven. He knows about weight, power and elegance. But he knows never to have the Bolly shaken. Or stirred.

Placet Palacios Remondo 2012

This Viura from one of Spain’s most well-known winemakers is a traditional varietal which excels in the Rioja. The little age which we will enjoy adds some nutty notes to the apple and white peach undertones. The 2012 vintage was superb for the Viura (also known as Macabeo) resulting in a complexity that earned a Wine Spectator score of 90 for this wine.

Domaine des Comtes Lafon, Santenots-du-Milieu, Volnay 1er Cru, Burgundy, 2011

PInotphiles will enjoy the aromatics and rich palate elegance of this young, feminine style of Burgundy; “with an elegant, pure and airy essence of red pinot fruit. There is a highly seductive texture to the soil and mineral-inflected middle weight flavors”. Look out for “the inner mouth perfume and the length which is simply stunning." (Burghound 92-94). From a renowned maker we can expect complexity and length in a classic approach. Stephen Tanzer 92 pts, Parker 93 pts

Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte 2005

Smith Haut Lafitte's great terroir of deep Gunzian gravel, with old vines sinking several metres into the soil, produced stupendous results in an excellent year. This Graves has structure which is still youthful in its classic blend of 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot. Robert Parker actually did taste this one and wrote: “The inky/blue/purple-tinged 2005's extraordinary nose reeks of charcoal, incense, scorched earth, abundant blackberry, blueberry, and cherry fruit, toast, and spice. Good acidity, huge but sweet tannin, and fabulous precision as well as definition characterize this full-bodied, super-concentrated effort. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2030+." A trifle young; so some breathing in the glass may open up its possibilities even further.

Parker 95 pts , Wine and Spirits 94 pts, Stephen Tanzer 93.

Chateau Pichon Lalande 2001

The high proportion of Merlot in the blends from Chateau Pichon Lalande is a good reason why this wine, among the great wines of Pauillac, is always so seductive. This vintage has added structure with 36% Petit Verdot. Critics on both sides of the Atlantic rate this ready-to-drink now vintage very highly. Excelling in ripe structure of the finest quality from a highly regarded house, it charms as well as excites with vibrant and deep fruit.The serious tannins and acidity that promised of good aging described in write-ups penned four or five years ago praise a classic. It should offer intense pleasure now, though connoisseurs who answer its request for patience in the glass should be rapturously rewarded. Wine Enthusiast 95 pts, Robert Parker 93 pts, Wine Spectator 93 pts, Stephen Tanzer 92 pts.

Kracher Beerenauslese Cuvee 2009

This prestige sweetie is a renowned Austrian blend which, following some age in our cellar, has gained even greater elegance compared to when it was enjoyed in a previous IWFS pouring. Antonio Gallioni described this 92 pointer as follows: "A rich, deep palette of aromas and flavors emerges from the 2009 Cuvee Beerenauslese. Tropical fruit, peaches, yellow stone fruits and spices flesh out in a wine that is beautifully layered, voluptuous and textured. The blend is 75% Welschriesling and 25% Chardonnay, aged 80% in steel and 20% in cask. Residual sugar is 114 grams per liter. " A sweet, layered and complex finale from a top Austrian specialist grower and maker. Enjoy.

Stoked in Damansara - Yes we were!

Welcome to Stoked!

First thoughts on the evening:

• Nice ambience - cute use of wine boxes as lampshades. Smoky cottage rustic feel. 

• Kenny G music - AAAAAAAARGHHHH!!!

• Open plan - can see the oven and chef. Got good meat supplier, including Spanish beef, same as used at Extebarri.

• Excellent beef - perfect sear and texture, lovely pepper rub, good jus, didn't overpower the meat. Stunner.

• Dessert of ice cream with salt was wonderful - first time having salt with ice cream.

• Definitely go back for the beef. New menu, but still retaining some old faithfuls.

Wednesday August 5th 2015

This was a wonderful evening of great food, wine and nonsense with the IWFS Committee and spouses. The IWFS regularly hold their meetings at the Ribs, and owner/operator Yin-How kindly provides glasses for the wines and cheesey nibbles for the hungry. Ribs has now undergone a revamp and makeover and is to be known as STOKED when its doors reopen (next week I understand). Main reason being the acquisition and installation of a 300kg Cast Iron oven who goes by the name of Bertha. Seems it took ten people to get Bertha off the truck and into position. She has pride of place in the centre of the restaurant. 

Chef Yao. With Bertha. Yes.

Bertha has a tray which takes wood chips and can do wonderful things with meat when you "stoke" the fire with a poker and stir up the embers to flame. Hence the renaming of Ribs to Stoked. Also, in modern parlance to be "stoked" is to be very excited about something - as in "Arsenal beat Chelsea - totally stoked!"  There might also be a somewhat more base connotation about Bertha getting stoked with a poker which is probably best to avoid - bit too ham sap for present company. Yin-How says Stoked will be experimenting with different types of wood (and hopefully MAKING their own wood) to see what flavours get more delightfully imparted by Bertha to the meats and other bits that get thrust into her metal insides. 

Other reason is new chef Yao who we don't know too much about at this time. Story seems to be he spent time in Japan learning up the techniques and is now keen to let them loose in a Western style concept. Should be interesting!

Yin-How had kindly offered up a dinner for Committee Members and spouses to enjoy a sampling of dishes from his new menu that would be on offer when the Stoked opened its doors. And a commendable fifteen were totally up for it. There was a wine theme suggested by David of ABA - Anything But Australian - which we all complied with. It became a pretty eclectic selection to which Yin-How did a very good job of arranging the order of drinking at the last minute!

Stoked interior

I got dropped off at the Stoked by Lenglui who was going for a Tai Chi session prior to the dinner. First thing of note was that the door had been shifted and the entrance now sported a reception and cashtill section guarded by a bronzed pig with a blank white sandwich board. Presumably El Porco will advise patrons of any specials available to the hungry hordes. The interior was red brick and cream cement with lots of dark wood, giving a farmhouse cottage feel. Stoked retains a separate wine reception area, and the original door area has been sectioned off by a glass door to offer a smoking area for cigars to be puffed with wines and the smoke being able to go straight out into the night air through a louvre style wall. Two main features - the use of wine crates as lights hanging from the ceiling and pride of place being given over to Bertha in the centre of the restaurant. Lots of alcoves in the walls which housed mostly Bordeaux bottles. Lighting was subdued though sufficient with halogen bulbs shining onto the tables. Certainly felt more of a "venue" than the Ribs - more restaurant and less cafe/bistro - though no less friendly and welcoming. The table for our fifteen had been set up along the long wall section with another table ready to house the Stoked glasses and wines all had brought for the dinner. 

Stoked interior and the hungry horde

We held our meeting in the usual private room where each member will bring a bottle from their collection for the others to try. The IWFS meetings have a particular style - things start quite briskly and as the wines get consumed the meeting starts to meander and drift and then there is a mad rush to finish the necessary and get down to the real business of food and drink. This evening was no different, though the rush was a shade more brisk than usual given that the ladies and the booze were waiting. We closed it out and trooped out to a tasty glass of crunchy cold bubbles that hit the spot nicely. Everyone had arrived so we all sat and chitchatted and took photos of the place and each other.

The house baked bread was excellent, and even more so with the truffle butter - it had that artisan salty crusty crunch feel though with a hint of smokey toast. Good bread always augurs well for a good evening!

Our Amuse Bouche was a Scallop Mousse, which quickly got labelled as Scaramouche by Lenglui (we are trying to crack an accapella version of Bohemian Rhapsody for an upcoming show in November). Tastewise I got pesto and tomato - sweet, smooth with fresh herbs. Creamy smooth, though for me it could have used some extra zip to zing the buds into anticipatory action - maybe a dab of yuzu or citrus lime or a tiny hit of strawberry or apple. 

Scaramouche... can you do the Fandango?

The Cattier Champagne gave way to a Nigl Rose Fizz which was lively and lovely - a sharpish salty acidic cheek pinch with tongue puckering acidity and a very nice crunchy biscuit mouth. The sides of the tongue were taking big hits from the wine. Pleasant hits, mind you, but it did throw the fruit a bit off in the balance. The tongue map says this indicates sourness and salt. Clean and lean which slipped down a sweet cherry treat. Lovely drop of pink fizz. Only one bottle of it. Sad. Could have chugged this one all night.

Next wine was the St Clair Gruner Veltliner which lacked the crispness of its Austrian ancestor but made for a smooth enough and Rieslingesque sweet sip. There was also a Vermentino from Corsica somewhere in the sequence which surprised in its excellent balance and crisp fruity whack in the mouth. 

Vichyssoise

The Vichysoisse was firm and full, with additional creamy vegetal texture given by the eggplant and a salty zip from some caviar. Presentation was nice, though the whisked potato soup still had a bit of grain and powder to it. Not sure what potatoes were used but I get this kind of hit from large mashed russets. It was pleasant enough, but didn't quite stun - not enough in the dish to make it really memorable. Perhaps a sprig of rosemary and a dab of wasabi oil to give some heft to the potatoes. The wine washed it down very nicely, with the crisp acid sucking up the grain and sending it down the tubes.

A Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc was next in the glass. Massively green, with grassy gooseberry and green pepper on the nose. Slender in body, but a frisky mouthfeel and a crystal clean finish. 

We were having it with the Foie Gras, the first taste of which was GAAAAAAACK - got a smack of gamey liver in the mouth suggesting a bit too much age on the FG. Bit like that little lick of rust you get from an overaged wine - not quite right. Though the rest of the FG was fine, no problem taste wise. Was the first time I'd experienced liverish FG. Interesting. Though it could have been the wine in the system initially reacting to it. Perhaps the system wasn't just quite ready.

The mango gave a signature squeaky sharp sweet acidic zip which cut the fatty Foie Gras a treat and gave a zappy pinch on the cheeks. Nice touch to pair a quintessentially Asian tropical fruit with a quintessentially French delicacy and it totally worked. The Balsamic Reduction was perhaps a bit too reduced, though - almost toffee in texture and taste and which stuck to the plate like a limpet squid and difficult to scrape off.  

Foie Gras with Mango and Balsamic Reduction

For me, Foie Gras needs bread and my request for more was swiftly answered by the staff. The artisan bread brought the whole combo into perfect sync - the salty crust with sweet mango splattered foie gras and a scrape of the Balsamic was an excellent salty swoooosh across the mouth which sent the whole thing ballistic. Wooooo.... Total belter. Winewise, the Cloudy Bay was not a great match, and neither was the following St Clair Wairau Estate - the first hit from the latter was a szzzzzzt sharp slap on the back of the mouth, with acidity that sucked all the spit from the tongue. Got a lot of soursop and citrus lime - though it gave a lovely finish showing some finesse and nice complexity. There you go. Be great with Crabs, though. 

The food and wine came pretty fast tonight and the next up Tagliatelle was excellent - totally fresh pasta and not too heavy with the sauce (which for some reason came across as a shade sweet for my taste, through the delightfully fresh baby tomatoes). The Duck Breast was very good - excellent meat and with enough pink to render it juicy and wonderful. And a lovely woodsmokey skin that tweaked the nose and cheeks without being too overseasoned. I also seemed to get a slight hit of marmalade. 

There was also a garnish of Parmegiano shavings which didn't quite work for me with the duck. It gave a clunky gunky clag feel at the back of the throat that seemed to mess with the oils in the duck - maybe too much in the fats area. But it was great with the tagliatelle and sauce. 

Tagliatelle with Wood Smoked Duck

We were having it with a Palisser Estate Chardonnay 2012 which was very pleasant and did good justice to the pasta, though the dish would have paired magnificently with the Craggy Range Pinot that followed had it been poured in sufficient time. So it goes. This is a beautiful Pinot - sleek, refined, clean drinking with understated power both on the front and back ends. The one glass we had went way too quickly - another that we could have supped all night. I think I have a bottle somewhere…

For the main we had a Triebaumer Blaufrankisch and a Vieux Telegraphe CdP to set against each other. The Blau was tasty and wonderfully balanced without being overpowering in any area - good sleek power and fruit with a clean lingering finish. The CdP was much sweeter on the nose and in the mouth - got jammy cranberry and a thumping whack as it hit the cheeks. 

The Tenderloin was excellent. Nice aged texture on the meat, lovely wood sear, light peppercorn in the rub and jus and done to medium rare perfection. Big Bertha did her work wonderfully well. Adding the watercress for texture and herb worked well, giving a vegetal crunch for contrast. I generally prefer my jus on the side rather than doused over the top as it gives me a better sense of the quality and sear on the meat. But on this occasion it didn't matter - one of those rare occasions where the jus enhances rather than overpowers and masks the meat. Really well done to the chef and double thumbs up to Bertha for the beef. 

Grainge Angus Tenderloin

Winewise, the Blau did it better for me than the CdP. It gave wonderful support to the meat without overpowering and partnered extremely well in all departments - fruit, tannins and a hint of black pepper on the finish. The CdP was a bit more cloying and syrupy, though still a lovely drop to have with a meal. 

There were a few more wines to end the night. Of these, the Sasso Al Poggio Chianti from Piccini stood out as an evenly balanced and eminently drinkable red. Something out of a decanter (I think Chateau Clinet) felt a bit uneven and tough and a bit difficult to enjoy. 

The Sticky Date Pudding was lovely. Full whack of treacle and dates. We were advised to add a hit of salt to it and this took it to another level. It smacked the tongue tip and cut the sweet toffee smack - this let the ice cream come forward and lend a smooth milky cream foundation for the treacle and spongey pudding to slip delightfully along the system. Really good. Salt with Ice Cream - who would have thought?

Sticky Date Pudding

We had a sweet Eiswein with dessert which also worked wonderfully - sticky apricots with a cut of citrus syrup to brush the cheeks in preparation for the hit from the dates and the cream. Lush, sinful, salty heaven. 

Wine service was excellent, as one would expect from one of KL's leading wine suppliers and restaurateurs. The music was perhaps a bit too eclectic - I got Kenny G through Shakespeare's Sister to (I think) Linkin Park. It seemed to be somehow fighting the smokey farmhouse ambience of the place and left me a shade confused as to what image and feel Stoked might be aiming to project. Maybe can think about French Lounge Jazz (Aznavour) or maybe even that cheesy accordian music you get on those Souvenir of Paris CDs in Montmartre. Or country Gypsy fiddle - Stephane Grappelli - or classical guitar. Something with a hint of sophistication. But Kenny G…   definitely no. Didn't work. Stoked is a restaurant, not a department store elevator. 

Chatting with Yin-How after the dinner, he shared that his beef supplier was getting the same meat that got supplied to Extebarri in San Sebastian. We all went there in 2013 and it remains one of my absolute best meals of my life (see my post elsewhere in this blog). He asked Chef Yao to bring some out and it looked magnificent. If it can be grilled and seared Extebarri style then this will be world class. Absolutely have to go back and try this - certainly saves paying airfare to get to San Sebastian... 

The Spanish steak, same you get in Extebarri, San Sebastian. Next time...

I like to see what I remember about a restaurant a couple of days after dining there. For me, Stoked stokes up memories (sorry couldn't resist!) of great ambience, excellent beef, tasty duck, lovely bread and the mango foie gras that went with it. Great wines and service. And Bertha impassively waiting to take whatever Chef can give her. Bertha is the star around which everyone revolves and will command love and honour by all who seek to dance with her. Yes.

Happy? Happy. Yes.

I like the idea that Stoked is aiming to offer European style modern preparations a la Michelin chefs in terms of presentation and content. I also love the idea of incorporating Asian twists with standard Western style ingredients (ie Mango with Foie Gras). And whilst some of the dishes on show on the evening were indeed worthy of top end  standard - the tenderloin, the dessert - others showed promise but seemed to lack some element of bonding and unifying that takes a dish from the good to the exquisite. The tastes and textures and presentations were there, just needing an extra lick of something Mastercheffy to help elevate the dish to the stratospheric. Given its cuisine, Stoked will invite comparisons with DC and Soleil and other international cuisine eateries and will jockey with these in terms of market position and niche. But Stoked still does pork, which distinguishes it from these places. And the Vintry group do their pork dishes extremely well - still for me some of the best ribs in town at the erstwhile Ribs and Vintry at Jaya 33. And decent comprehensive wine lists to satisfy most palates and budgets, and which can stand as some of the best in Malaysia.

But this is early days and one can never judge definitively or absolutely on a single visit - these tend to be reactions rather than reflections. Six months down the line, things in Stoked will have settled and come into focus and these same dishes will have gained from comment and experimentation. And I am expecting the beef will be even better, especially that chunk of Extebarri loveliness after it has been through Bertha's steely and fiery clutches. Phwoooar. Now thinking about getting stuck into THAT gets me stoked - and you should be too! Cheers!!

The tally for the night

STOKED RESTAURANT AND BAR

120-122 Jalan Kasah, Bukit Damansara

03 20948262

www.vintry.com.my

PRIVATE DINNER 5TH AUGUST 2015

Vichyssoise

with Roasted Eggplant and Caviar

Foie Gras

wth Mango and Balsamic Reduction

Tagliatelle

with Wood Smoked Duck Breast with Home Made Tomato Sauce

Roasted Grouper

with Braised Artichoke, Garlic Confit and Roasted Capsicum

or

Grainge Angus Tenderloin

with Watercress and Black Peppercorn Sauce

Siicky Date Pudding

with Vanilla Ice Cream and Caramelised Sauce

Coffee, Tea

Petits Fours

IWFS Lafite - Cuisine Haut, Service Naut…

Lafite entrance

June 25th 2015 Kuala Lumpur

For the first event of the new IWFS Year, President David wanted to start with a grand bang and pick a venue that would set a tone of IWFS members enjoying eating and drinking well and being merry together. So it was that Lafite got selected to host the dinner. He had challenged Chef de Cuisine Jean-Philippe Guiard to prepare a menu with "memories of Escoffier" and had also asked Maitre D' and Sommelier Benjamin Pons to choose the wines from our IWFS Cellar to pair. Response to the members' notice was swift and enthusiastic, and following some discussion it was decided to increase numbers to absorb the waiting list of members keen to attend. In the end, 59 members confirmed.

Orchids are pretty...

I am always a bit antipathetic to the Shangri-La and its outlets. Elsewhere I have commented on what I have seen as a decline in the service it offers. At one time, Lafite service used to be World Class but not so over the last few years (though I recognise my understanding of service has increased in the past few years given some Michelin experiences - see other posts). A recent visit showed some promise in reviving the halcyon days of superior service and it was hoped that in this outing this renaissance would be seen to have continued. It has to be said that the Lafite oozes class - the ambience is swish corporate though romantic enough for proposals. Most would give their eye teeth to be privileged enough to have just one evening there - the fact that I have had many is not lost on me, though I do feel that one should receive fair value for the expenditure involved. It costs a lot and an assessment of whether the experience is worth it needs to be made. 

Barry Shaw and Edna Tan

Driving into town at 7pm proved quite seamless for a Puasa evening and we got into Lafite on the 7.30pm dot. There is a timeslot which, if you catch it right, you can ride a gap in the traffic right into town. Puasa means that the Muslim population are looking for somewhere to break the day's fast, and would all be in the hotels or at the stalls by 7pm and sat down ahead of the sunset ready to buka. So. Though finding a parking space took almost as long as the drive in - all floors were full as was the spillover into the neighbouring UBN Tower. We got lucky - someone seemed to be having trouble parking and while we waited for him to get it right he left. Zipped in before friend behind could zip in and steal it. I'm a great believer in that we should look for the best in people, but car parks always show our true nature, n'est-ce pas? 

Chris Chew and Sanjeev

Everyone was crowded into the small reception bar and quaffing the zippy Duval-Leroy Rose and making lots of noise. It was a bit cramped though no-one seemed to mind too much and were happy clinking glasses and enjoying the jostling. The downside was that refills from staff proved impossible since they could not get through the crowd. This is where rugby training comes in and one can bob and weave ones way through the scrum to the man with the bottle. The Rose felt a bit sharp and in need of a canape to soften its edge, but it soon got replaced with a Pol Roger which was belter - cold crisp bubbles popping in the mouth and with a delightful throat ripping, thirst slaking finish. Just the thing for a sore throat and a perfect way to break the thirst.

Li Dong and Pitt Lee

Everyone got the call to seat and moved into the dining room. The tables had been set Chinese style round rather than Western style long which made for a more visible seating arrangement. Though occasionally one is not really able to engage with friends across the other side of the table. So it goes. The restaurant had basically been given over to IWFS for the night which made for nice space between tables and ensuing sense of distance. The Lafite ambience is refined, with small halogen spots dimly lighting on main areas - these proved a bit warm when shining on the bejacketed men and those with ties must have been a bit heated. But a quick turn up of the aircon always can solve a temperature issue. 

Lafite Restaurant

Brief speech from President David before breaking the bread on the table and the Foie Gras was out. Bread was very good and necessary to soak up the bubbles and make way for the entree. The 2010 Rieussec was poured and I could hear the Kiwi somewhere screaming "infanticide" but it was the only Sauteurnes we had in the cellar so out it had to come on suggestion of Sommelier Ben. And quite right too - Sauteurnes and FG is the perfect pairing of crunchy sweet wine with mushy gunky throat coating Foie Gras. 

The Rieussec was full peach and apple syrup infused with enough alcohol to render the whole with a crispy drinkability on its own.  

The Foie Gras

The Foie Gras was lovely - that sweet intestinal smooth pate feel inside the cheeks with the red wine jelly giving a gelatin undercurrent. The Brioche was a bit on the fluffy side but firm enough to underpin the whole - I generally prefer my carbo a bit crisper. Balsamic reduction was two dots on the plate which was not really enough to do anything. The combo was nice enough, a sweet gooey chew all slippy and sloppy and coating the roof of the mouth and giving that oily pasted feel across the tongue and cheeks. The perfect foil for the cleansing quality of the darling Rieussec to come in and scrape everything clean and clear. Must be how the drains feel after a good swoosh with the Clorox and Dettol. 

Creamy Oyster and Haddock Soup

Decks got swiftly cleared and on came the white, a Sauvignon from old faithful Alois Lagerder. We've been quaffing wines from this winemaker across a good couple of years with the IWFS. They often surprise wonderfully on the upside and tonight they kept that record brilliantly intact. Initially a bit acidic on the throat, it showed its chops as a superb food wine when paired with the soup. Traditionally, no wine pairs well with soup, but the Lagerder did a sterling job, giving good fruit and dry stone minerality to counter the cream and puree. Clean and clear as a razor, it felt like drinking spring water from a flint stream - light, even texture and leaving a feeling of somehow being cleansed, as if the throat had just got baptised. Very good comments on the Sauvignon from the table and praised as a very good find, though it did need the food. 

The soup itself was a lovely creamy slurp leading to a textured creamy kiss on the inside of the cheeks. The little dab of pepper was a good suggestion and brought the cream to life. Vegetables not overcooked, lending a firm crunch to the cream. Supposedly a poached oyster somewhere in the mix, I don't remember swallowing one. I might omit the haddock next time, it gave a somewhat chewy feel to the soup. Or perhaps that was the oyster.

Rack of Veal

The rack of veal had come from the kitchen for a showing to the diners before being carted back for cutting. It came out soon after, though it would prove a good five minute wait for the fish to make the same journey to the table. We waited politely for four of these minutes and got instructed by the fish eaters to begin. The veal itself was pretty good - well cooked and good tender meat, not unlike the Charolais Beef we have eaten in Beaune but way more tender. And pretty tasteless, actually - not a lot of anything in the mouth from the meat. But then arguably that is the point - the meat is the tasteless texture around which all other tastes and flavours orbit to let them shine. And in this sense the veal was a success - the tastes were magnificent. The mashed potato was a bit reminiscent of Robuchon in Monte Carlo - creamy dreamy and luscious with the red wine gravy (claimed to be Morel sauce - whatever, it tasted like wine reduction). Very good rich French cuisine here. Though the asparagus was cooked to the point of limp. Which prompted some table comments about liking it firm and the associations this had with other things of length and degrees of firmness. I had no idea what they were talking about.

Veal with Asparagus

For whatever was the main of choice, both the Marsannay and Lynch Bages were poured so that each member got the paired wine and a glass of the other. Suggestion from Sommelier was to save some of either for the dessert. Hmmm. The Marsannay is an old friend from Pork Luck Club dinners with Dave Chan so we knew what to expect. Indeed, it was fine and frisky, though on this showing a bit fierce in the mouth - kind of like a black cherry with a curry puff bite on the cheek. Medium texture, lovely mouthfeel, good grippy finish. In contrast, the Lynch Bages was a bit disappointing - bit thin and light in the mouth, traditional Pauillac bramble and blackcurrrant terroir nose, nice tannins but a hint of tart on the finish. Not much fruit to make it really pleasant to drink nor I feel to sustain it through the years. Somewhat austere, though still approachable, but not an immediately friendly wine. Dare I say, perhaps a bit ordinary - neither lean, nor full, nor…   anything.  It was a good enough match with the food, though nothing to loudly shout about - the reduction tamed whatever tannin was there and made the wine slightly more drinkable. But slightly more ordinary at the same time. Not something I would pay a large sum to drink again. But then that's why we try them now, to see if there's anything worth raving about. Not today. Sorry. Didn't get this one at all. For the first time at an IWFS dinner I left wine in the glass. Couldn't drink it.

When the fish did finally make it to the tables, there was a silence as diners took in the visual display. The poor thing looked like it had been hacked with the cleaver and just plopped on the plate. It did not look classy. It was also apparently a bit cold.  I wonder whether the kitchen was under pressure to get the food out and perhaps the finesse got pushed to the margin as a result. 

The Turbot. Yes.

And there was a lot of noise at the fact that the Turbot had not been deboned - it was sat there, all bones visible, looking kind of like a rack of fish ribs. The fish was tasty after Lenglui asked for and got some salt and pepper. Chunky flakes which rolled off the bone and sweet chew and bite. Though the bones got to her and she could not continue with it. I finished it off and was indeed soon spitting out bones like I was at the Overseas with a Soon Hock Yee. It was hard, messy work to eat and I think this was what members were railing at. Some suggested it might have been better had the fish been filleted and simply seasoned with salt and seared. Well, and perhaps, but Chef had his reasons for this style and maybe should be judged on those rather than what a personal preference might indicate. I wonder if the real point is that bone spitting is acceptable at a Chinese restaurant but not so at the Lafite. Which seems a very fair point - we'll happily bone spit in many places; however one cannot be seen to be so doing at the Lafite, n'est-ce pas? But the fish I finished off was beautifully cooked. Thoroughly enjoyed it. Don't remember much about the side bits. 

Pairing with the Marsannay made sense, though the Turbot rocked with the remains of the white. The Marsannay got slightly flattened by the fish, though not so much that it died in the mouth. The dark cherry gave a cute pop to the fish which was firm enough to stand up to it. Fair match. Can't remember if I sipped the Lynch Bages with the Turbot. Probably. No notes. 

Dessert

Dessert was a Praline, Chocolate and Cherry Revised Black Forest. With some lovely milky ice cream. Not entirely sure what the name of the dish meant. Someone suggested deconstructed Black Forest, though perhaps unconstructed might have closer. Chef had a range of makings on the plate leaving diners to dip in or mash the lot together and consume the resulting goo ensemble. It was nicely not sweet and the ice cream was lovely, but really needed some carbo - in this, there was a bit of some crepe pancake-like thing on the plate which had that rubber taste and texture of day old roti canai. All was needed was a crisp light wafer which would have brought it all together. Notwithstanding the suggestion to keep some of the red wine with the dessert, it didn't work for me - praline and chocolate killed it off. Perhaps he was referring to keeping the Sauteurnes, but even here it would have died - whiskey can pair with chocolate, and coffee would also have done the trick but rarely will a sticky sweet Dessert wine pair well with chocolate and ice cream. Incidentally, coffee was not included in the dinner, though on leaving I did see a couple of cups on tables - which left me to wonder who would be paying for them?

So….  overall I felt Chef did very well… except for the fish. Kitchen did quite well… except for the fish. There seemed to be a major delay with the fish coming out to the tables. Staff did pretty well with the food serving and clearing. The wine service felt pretty poor, both in amounts and attitudes. Someone commented that the wine pouring felt a bit thin - though I think the wine wasn't getting to the other tables and the waiters were getting waylaid by the sweet talking chuggers and getting refills. Indeed, one sweet talker on our table who was joking in Bahasa with the wine waiter got a major refill when his two glasses were still more than half full and the wine waiter walked away leaving other glasses on the table empty. Not good. In fact, quite bad and nowhere near the standard one would expect of a restaurant of Lafite standing. 

Bachan Singh, Brian, and Jag Singh

But this is the old problem - train them up and they leave for better pay elsewhere; don't train them and give your customers the raw end of the service stick. There is a clear need for some serious training or supervision to be given to the wine waiters here on getting wine out to the far tables and not just letting themselves get bullied by the sweet talking chuggers. Either that or closer supervision by IWFS WIne people, but then you can't enjoy the dinner. Not sure how to handle this one...

Jan and Barry Shaw

So…  my hoped-for renaissance in the service at the Lafite does not seem to have taken place. As said, the restaurant still exudes great ambience and class, though for me some of the Wine Waiting staff fell down a bit on the night. One or two felt - unrefined. And possibly over-friendly. And very young, all of them. Part of me suspects that the experienced staff had once again been seconded to the Ballroom where a major function was taking place. And thoughts flew back to June 2013 and a disastrous IWFS dinner in the Sarawak room for 80 members from across the globe with an Annual Dinner going on in the main ballroom. On the business level, this is great for the Shangri-La; on my level I always seem to end up feeling disappointed. 

Do I expect too much? I think that when paying RM350 for food I have a reasonable expectation of an evening of professional level service with food at the standard of a fine dining establishment. Service wise, I didn't feel I got it - again. I got better service at a Chinese shopping mall restaurant for one quarter of what was paid for the Shang (see the recent post on the Grand Imperial). I recognise that my service expecations have increased as a result of my exposure to some excellent service at restaurants around the world. But seriously, if Lafite is still claiming to be KL's best in service terms, it is way, way behind Sage and Cilantro and Soleil. Be interesting to see how they match up to regional neighbours in Hong Kong, Singapore and (from what I am hearing) Bangkok. Perhaps the simple truth is that they think they can handle numbers when in fact they can't. Would probably be a different experience for a quiet dinner with an unstressed kitchen. 

On this showing, I would prefer not go back though I expect I will have to at some future occasion. I'd rather save the money and spend it in Paris. Or Singapore. Or Hong Kong. Seems also the hotel is now completely pork free, even the Shang Palace. So it goes. At least the parking after 7pm now seems standard, though a RM12 whack still compares to RM3 in the Wisma Lim Foo Yong around the corner and up the road. Someone could probably could do a good valet park business at the Shang by driving and parking at the LFY. Wouldn't be surprised if someone already is…  Malaysia boleh!!

The Menu

Chef Jean-Philippe

Aperitif

Duval-Leroy Rose de Saignee Brut NV

***

Duck Liver Terrine and Red Wine Jelly, Warm Homemade Brioche and Balsamic Reduction 

La Terrine de Foie Gras et Gelée de Vin Rouge, Brioche Tiède et Réduction de Balsamique 

Château Rieussec, 2010, Sauternes, France 

*** 

Creamy Oyster and Haddock Soup, Poached Oyster and Spring Vegetables 

La Crème d’Huître et Haddock, Huître Pochée et Légumes Primeurs 

Domaine Alois Lageder Sauvignon 2011

*** 

Roasted Rack of Veal, White Asparagus, Light Potato Cream and Morel Sauce 

Le Carré de Veau Rôti, Asperges Blanches, Crème de Pomme de Terre et Sauce Morille 

Château Lynch-Bages, 2008, Pauillac, France 

Or 

Roasted Turbot, Braised Onion Puree, Onion Leaves, Porcini, Red Wine and Beef Jus, Poached White Asparagus 

Le Tronçon de Turbot Poêlé, Soubise d’Oignons Braisés, Feuilles d’Oignon, Cèpes, Asperge Blanche Pochée et Sauce Vin Rouge 

Domaine Charles Audoin Marsannay La Charme aux Pretres, 2011, Burgundy, France 

*** 

Praliné, Chocolate and Cherry Revised Black Forest 

La Forêt Noire au Praliné, Chocolat et Cerise

The wines

The Wines

Duval-Leroy Rose de Saignee Brut NV

Fruit driven crisp clean and refreshing, aromas of strawberry and cherry, concentrated and with seething and scintillating bubbles that lead to a racing finish.

Château Rieussec, 2010, Sauternes, France 

A classic combination, Foie Gras and Sweet wine, which has a good complimentarity. Still in its infancy, those who recall it from our President’s dinner will relish making its re-acquaintance with its natural food pairing.

Alois Lagerder, 2011, Sauvignon, France 

Four years in bottle should have nicely mellowed this Sauvignon from the Alto Adige region near the border with Italy. Should pair well with the complex combination of Oyster and Smoked Haddock and provide some mouth texture relief after the Sauteurnes.

Château Lynch-Bages, 2008, Pauillac, France 

As with the 2009, not an easy year for Bordeaux. Notwithstanding, this classic Bordeaux from the Pauillac region should be a very good combination with the delicate Veal and the Morel sauce. 

Domaine Charles Audoin Marsannay La Charme aux Pretres, 2011, Burgundy, France 

Ben suggests to slightly chill this “charming” Cote de Nuits Pinot Noir so as to bring a light freshness to this meaty fish. D’accord!!

Thanks to Jan Shaw for most of the photographs in this post.