Mission

Mission: To respond thoughtfully and responsibly to my experiences of drinking and dining at restaurants with regard to the quality, service, preparation, presentation and overall experience received thereat. The standpoint is one who respects the crafts of the chef and sommelier and who seeks to understand their choices in the kitchen and cellar and grow in knowledge. In this, I will seek to be fair, reasoned, direct and constructive and aim to keep my ego in check on our mutual journeys through the worlds of food and wine.
Showing posts with label Sapore. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Sapore. Show all posts

Monday, December 18, 2017

Food Adventures January to July 2017 - July 2017

Prior to the two month sojourn around Wales, France and Sicily across August through to mid October, I had been a bit taken up with a project that took me away from the food and wine writing (and the songwriting and recording) but I then got a bit of a breather to try and reflect over where the Lengui and I had eaten over the previous couple of months (well, seven actually). So I figured rather than try to document them individually, better to just load them all into a single narrative and see how it looked. So this is a full-ish listing of where, when, and with whom we ate and drank over this period. Some are barely one liners, others have a bit more detail. Whatever, it made for a more than usually long read so it got broken down into months for ease of, er, digestion. Not sure if it will prove useful, but when taken in total it does represent quite a litany of gluttony. Phoooooooo....

July 1st Dengkil Seafood with Tai Chi, Ho Chiak groups
Drive with El Manica and Uncle Lim. Dengkil is still the total business with their Crab Stew, Hokkien Mee and Lala Mai Fun and Sang Har Mee and sweet steamed Prawns and Pai Kuat. Phwoooar…. Maybe not fine dining, but darn fricking good. Big boozy singsong at the end. Yaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaam…..   SENG!!!!

July 3rd Checkers with Birthday Group
Mr Tan did a special menu for us. Which ultimately was a pity since I think we all really wanted to chow down on his porky ribs. Still, it was enough food and five bottles of wine across nine people. But I have had better there. Not that the food was bad; just not what was quite expected. So it goes. 

July 5th Nero Nero DC Mall with IWFS - A Night with Barone Ricasoli
A newly opened restaurant in the newish DC Mall in Damansara with a wine dinner organised again by the indomitable and indefatiguable Michelle from AsiaEuro. We will have to start calling her Tonka - indestructible. Located on the open top of the Mall, a pretty ordinary outside gives way to a steampunk Californian Italian interior with lots of eye catchers and theme pieces. Worth a visit just to see the inside. Got reacquainted with wine maestro Yuhei who has a Japanese tapas bar across the path from Nero Nero and who supplied the first course. Laid a bit of groundwork for a future IWFS event - we will see how. 

Foodwise, I can't remember much. Same with the wines. No one raved about anything on the plates. Having Oxtail in a Ravioli felt a bit rich and had an odd finish. But the tomatoes were sparkling fresh. Main memory was getting parked next to the FBQ who spent most of the night with her nose in her phone playing some word game. Not exactly sparkling company. There you go. Maybe FBQ saying the same thing about me...
Menu
Pre Dinner Antipasto
Tempura Prawn, Smoked Salmon Herbs Butter
Torricella Chardonnay 2013
1st Course Antipasto
Arrancini on Tomato Coulis, Caprese Bruschetta
Chianti DOCG 2015
2nd Course - Primo Platto
Oxtail Ravioli in Light Cherry Tomato Sauce
Brolio Chianti Classico DOCG 2014
3rd Course - Secondo Platto
Tagliata Sirloin Steak, Eggplant Ratatouille with Porcini Mushroom Sauce
Castello di Brolio Vin Santo DOCG Gran Selezione 2011
4th Course - Dolce
Crema Catalana
Castello di Brolio Vin Santo DOCG 2007

Dear Leader and kids
July 8th and 9th - IWFS Trip to Ipoh
This was a repeat of a jolly that the IWFS KL did to Ipoh last year, though with some slight differences this time around. Last year saw us leaving KL after lunch which some cursed as missing on a lunch in Ipoh. This year the bus departed from Barrique at 10am and got us to a wonderful lunch at a seafood place in Tanjung Tualang. Prawns, fish, crab, other lovelies and all washed down with lashings of the St Clair Pioneer Block SB which had been nicely chilled in the David Coleman coldbox. The bus had a little bit of trouble negotiating the very narrow roadway that led to the place but seemed to manage to eventually park alongside, much to the astonishment of the local children. I guess they rarely see buses parking in the village. And the disgorging of an array of pale skinned city folk, many of whom were showing off various degrees of bare arms and legs was the cause of much finger pointing and comment. 

After lunch, it was on to the Mu Hotel in Ipoh (which was previously the Ibis Styles, where we had all stayed the previous year) to sleep off lunch ahead of a sundowner hosted by IWFS Ipoh at the Royal Ipoh Club. The original plan was to have the sundowner at the hotel as we had done last year, but the new management were apparently adamant on corkage being payable. So our Ipoh compadres came through and got the Royal Ipoh to open their doors. Brilliant job, and thank you IWFS Ipoh!

Hans, May and Vijay waiting for the food. Note the glasses and ice bags. We are IWFS. Yes.
The delightfully fresh Prawns
We and the bus got stopped at the entrance to the Club driveway, though it was not initially clear why. Fifteen minutes later, the news came back that whilst going in was fine, getting out the other side was impossible due to a low barrier across the exit. And it was chucking it down with rain. So off the bus we stumbled with umbrellas hoisted against the uncaring rain and slowly and wetly bundled ourselves into the Club. Old Glory was the immediate feel - not faded, but old - a place where you felt that traditions still meant something. We were scuttled upstairs to the main hall where we were met by our IWFS Ipoh compadres and about eight ice buckets with three or four bottles of vintage fizz in each. Yes. We had arrived. 

The Booze at Mun Cheong
Lashings of fizz and fingerfood and a cool evening chill after an afternoon of rain made for a most pleasant aperitif party. Though given the persistent drizzle we couldn't see much in the way of downing sun. Never mind - we all enjoyed the fizz and the cool evening muggy air. We were then back on the bus (well, most of us - we managed to lose Mossie) to the Mun Cheong Seafood for a bigass Chinese banquet with various styles of wine from across the globe. I was told I conducted a singing contest between the tables. Quite probably true. Raucous evening. No photos for some reason - only got one of two bottles that we all sucked on for the night. Will steal a few from the Facebook. The IWFS Ipoh prefer their spirits and were happily chugging away at the various Scotch on show. Me and whiskey are not a good match; my worst mornings have been after nights on the Gold Watch so I pretty much swear off it. Serious mental derangements. Best nightcap for me is a cold beer. 

Sunday breakfast saw the faithful pilgrims off on a Curry Mee breakfast trek at 7am whilst others snoozed the morning away. Not sure if anyone went to church but I suspect so. I went for a post breakfast stroll around the hotel block to clear some cobwebs. There is an amazing old school feel to this part of Ipoh; kind of like stuck in a time warp where the year is constantly 1965 or something. Just get a total 60s vibe from the roads, the buildings, the signboards... everything. Quite odd but somehow reassuring, as if the place will still be the same decades hence. I certainly won't be. One more decade would be good enough. 

Crab House Prawns

Crab House Fresh Pomfret with soup
Crab House Crabs. Of course. 
IWFS Ipoh Gin La getting presented with some fizz by IWFS KL David
11am saw the pilgrims gathering to check out and board the bus for a 30min drive to lunch at the Crab House, apparently a place of legend for the orange crustacean. This was epic - loads and loads of dishes coming out and everyone scrabbling to save space for the lovelies. Which most were able to do - there was barely a leg or a morsel left for taking away. And all washed down with some lovely fizz, white and red. Then back on the bus for a leisurely trundle south back to KL and the Uber home before a swift pasta and wine with Lenglui and the Princess. Perfect weekend.  

Upstairs at Vintry
July 10th Vintry Damansara
Not sure how we ended up here - think we were wanting to go to Checkers but forgot that Mr Tan closes on Mondays and I must have persuaded Lenglui that the Hokkien Mee at Vintry is magical. Which it was, and is. Bit disappointed with the service - got shuttled upstairs against Lenglui's complaining knees then had to go back downstairs to try and choose the wine in a badly priced and not very well lit set of wine racks. Staff were smiling and friendly but frankly not that helpful, save for the competent and swift maiden who attended us upstairs. Vintry might have the food, but Stoked is way better for service. 

July 11th Marco with Rubber Baron
On occasion, the Marco does a promotion whereby they retrace their steps back thirty odd years to when they first started operating and offer dishes from that time at the PRICES of that time. So people can get the Shark Fin and the Pai Kuat at Shut Up prices and sock it all down with an amazing Sang Har Mee. The Baron brought some spectacular wines, but topped it off with a surprise dessert wine from Santorini. Black and thick as treacle, it was stunning - dark figs, raisins, but with a poke in the mouth like an exploding toffee apple ripping the cheeks. Belting wine. Marco food stunning as ever. Full report here>>>

Hung Kee Char Siew Noodles
July 16th Marco with El Manica
Again, taking advantage of the silly prices for the food, we went with the Ho Chiak group to resample the wares. I now fully understand the meaning of too much of a good thing. Phooooo….

There was also a night out at Casa Rosa (link is here>>) and (surprise!) Marco Polo with the IWFS (link is here>>). Also a Char Siew noodles lunch at our long time favourite up the road from the apartment (the Hung Kee on Jalan Loke Yew - excellent everything). The noodles have this amazing (what Lenglui calls) "bounce" texture - the bite and chew are some of the best around. Probably equates to "al dente" for pasta but in a Chinese cuisine context. We have it with some steamed chicken and garlic fried vegetable with a pot of tea. Stellar. 

There were a couple of other trips to Sapore, including one with Texas to see if it would do for his upcoming birthday (it didn't) and one with the Baron and his wines. He was very relaxed this night, more so than on previous outings. That's what wine and well cooked pig can do for you. Cheers!!

Monday, December 11, 2017

Food Adventures January to July 2017 - June 2017

Prior to the two month sojourn around Wales, France and Sicily across August through to mid October, I had been a bit taken up with a project that took me away from the food and wine writing (and the songwriting and recording) but I then got a bit of a breather to try and reflect over where the Lengui and I had eaten over the previous couple of months (well, seven actually). So I figured rather than try to document them individually, better to just load them all into a single narrative and see how it looked. So this is a full-ish listing of where, when, and with whom we ate and drank over this period. Some are barely one liners, others have a bit more detail. Whatever, it made for a more than usually long read so it got broken down into months for ease of, er, digestion. Not sure if it will prove useful, but when taken in total it does represent quite a litany of gluttony. Phoooooooo....

June 8th Topshelf Tasca wine dinner 
Went with the Princess and the Texan, got sat near the door so a bit warm but could hear the conversation as compared to the echo machine that I remembered from previously getting sat further inside. Squid Ink cracker felt a bit dusty, though the Tomato and Octopus Salad that followed was fresh and the crisp little sweeties got nicely spritzed up with the vinaigrette. The tomatoes were some of the best I have tasted in a long time - that wonderful slightly sharp explosive bite you get when they are just off the plant and your cheeks get sprayed and splotched with the freshest sweet juice on the planet. I had the beef cheek which was delightfully rich and bistro whilst Lenglui chose the somewhat dry and slightly stinky duck. The duck felt just a shade too long on the kitchen table and the purines had started to ferment, or whatever it is that they do - had that slight stinky "ducky" scent and taste. I know this because we swapped - Lenglui does not do ducky duck. 

The wines were Sicilian and robust though not really sticking in the memory. Fair with the food, but didn't quite seem worth the asking prices. None of us bought. 

Somehow not as good as previous visits. An indescribable something has slipped. Can't put a finger on it. Maybe was the staff - felt a bit not confident in wine pourings and dish placements. And the ducky duck was a bit of a slip. Odd.
Menu
Amuse - Squid Ink Cracker with smoked Garlic Aioli
Tasca d'Almerita Regaleail Bianoc
Tomato and Octopus Salad - Marinated Heirloom Tomatoes, Grilled Octopus, Micro Herbs and Lime Vinaigrette
Tasca d"Almerita Regaleali Nero d'Avola
Braised Angus Beef Cheek in Red Wine, Charred Endive, Potato Purre
or
Roasted Duck Breast, Beetroot, REd Wine Jus
Tasca d'Almerita Lamuri
Tasca d'Almerita Cygnus
Lemon Parfait with Pistachio Basil Crumb and Caramelised Granola

June 11th St Regis Astor 1
This was a birthday for one of Lenglui's in laws celebrating a joint birthday with the spouse. Needed to get there a bit early to test out the sound system - Lenglui would be doing her "My Way" and for some reason I was to do "Green Green Grass Of Home" - the theme was golden tunes for golden years and this was as near that the old fart rocker in me could think of doing. Brian is not a ballad singer - he is Rock and Blues. Yes. Excellent state of the art PA system installed in the room, which was all in white with chandeliers and panelling - actually very tasteful. Our soundcheck done, we started off with some excellent vintage Moet being paired with some amazing nuts and later moved on to a tasty Chilean White and old favourite the Le Volte Italian red (3rd wine of the super Tuscan Ornellaia house). The food presentations were very tasteful, and the food equally so. Whether they matched the expectation of the large packet this repast must have cost I cannot say - never trust a white boy's views about high end non Western cuisine. But most of the Chinese attendees seemed to enjoy well enough, though none I spoke to raved about the food. But they didn't denigrate it either, so we take that as a sign of approval - when there is no whingeing about the food, then it is pretty good. 

The evening ended up as a big party with those wanting to have a sing being invited to do so. Lenglui is good at getting people to sing and dance and with me getting the party underway with the Karaoke and getting completely raucous, everyone ended the night on a high. I am cursed with a weakness for a microphone and some backing music. Also did a jam with a Penang Guitar group with some Chinese songs - my party pieces. And the Birthday girl (at age 80 plus) was able to sing a couple of songs with her mates which went down a storm. Lovely couple and very happy to have been a part of the night. Not sure I could go back under my own tab though - not in this lifetime. 
Menu
Appetizers
Deep Fried Shrimp Paste Boneless Chicken
Dried Shrimp Radish Cake
Fresh Fruit Salad
Soup - Braised Bird's Nest Soup, Shredded Chicken, Bamboo Pith
Braised 6-Head Abalone with Blossom Mushroom and Vegetables
Combo of Stir-Fried Prawns with Golden Garlic and Stir Fried Kailan
Chicken Ginger Soup Mee Sua
Fragrant Red Date Tea, Snow Fungus and "Tang Yuen"

June 12th Somewhere with Birthday group
No memory, notes or photos of food or venue - total blank. Might have been Marco Polo. 

The tasty chest whacking Gavilan
June 14th Spanish Wine Vina Pedrosa dinner at Stoked
Enjoyed this one. Tasty food, tasty wines, great company. Particular shout out for adding the honeycomb to the Iberico Collar - sweet and spicy and lovely piece of meat - home run with this one. Matching a prune with the beef was also cute - a sweet hit to the firmish meat. Not sure about dessert, but the table oo-ed and ah-ed so I guess it was well received. Bought six of the cheaper Gavilan Crianza - the others felt in need of bottle time and were more austere than the fruity and juicier sibling. The Gavilan also has enough oomph to whack the chest and make you feel more of a bullfighter than, er, you might otherwise ever want to experience. 
Menu
Trio of Canapes
Raventos I Blanc de Blanc 2014
Duo of Tuna - Akami & Nouten, Radish, Ponzu Sauce
Vina Pedrosa Cepa Gavilan Crianza
Iberico Collar - Hungary Honey Comb, Button Mushroom, Lettuce
Vina Pedrosa Crianza
Beef Tajine - Prune, Tomato, Roasted Green Capsicum
Vina Pedrosa La Navila 2009
Vina Pedrosa La Navila 2012
Chocolate Version of Yeung Ji Gum Lo
Pomelo, Praline & Vanilla Ice Cream
Coffee Tea Petits Fours


Canapes Trio
Duo of Tuna
Iberico Collar and honeycomb - wicked good
Beef Tajine and Prune - well tasty
June 21st IWFS at Dewakan
Our IWFS for June 2017 was at Dewakan. Madness traffic thanks to being in the middle of Puasa month made me miss a turn with the result that the four in my car were a bit frazzled on arrival at the restaurant. Perhaps it was this that made me pretty much forget the whole meal. I remember the Cremant being wonderful, and the Duck being its usual magnificent self. But the rest of the dishes and wines are lost in mist. Traffic will do that to you. I remember talking to Chef Darren who seemed to suggest that Dewakan might be on the move to premises closer to the city. Which would make me a lot happier and more able to introduce the place to friends. I might also remember my next time there with a little more clarity. 
MENU
PRAWN UMAI, GREEN SAMBAL, A LIGHT SALAD
Aperitif - Cremant, Extra Brut, Albert Mann, Alsace 2014
PUDING JAGUNG
Viré-Clessé, Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon, Macon 2013 
SLOW COOKED RED SNAPPER WITH A BROTH MADE FROM TEMU
Marcel Chapoutier, St Deschant Blanc, Saint Josephs, Rhone 2009
BIDOR DUCK BREAST WITH BLOOD SAUCESmoked Pike Conger, Custard, Fermented Long 
Bouchard Pere et Fils, Clos de la Mousse, Beaune 2005 
Chateau Bellefont-Belcier, Grand Cru classe, St Emilion 2005  
TEMUAN CHOCOLATE WITH JAGGERY ICE CREAM

June 23rd Sapore with Texas
Reserved a table with the gang for Texas to check whether Sapore would be a candidate for an upcoming birthday dinner. Had the usual cold cuts with lardo on bread followed by pasta, pig and steak. Finished off about eight bottles between the ten of us. Yes. 

June 27th Soo Kee with House of Pork
Ten of us parked around a table crowded with glasses and plates and dishes that all came at about the same time. Can't remember what we ate, but there was pig and Soon Hock fish in there somewhere. The signature Prawn and fried Taufoo and meat in their thick goo with steamed rice is as near to simple perfection as you can get. I remember pulling someone about the need to say "Please" when requesting a dish to be passed to her; the phrase "Eh, that one you pass to me ah," might be acceptable in Jinjang but not in company of the House of Pork. Ah.

June 28th Robson Heights Guys Night
Bit subdued with only six guys, but superb Pai Kuat ribs and Tilapia Steamed Fish got the evening moving. Six bottles finished, some Oyster Bay whites and some various reds. Soul food. 

June 30th Sapore with Rubber Baron
This was just the four of us with the Baron come to sample the Lardo, the Roast Pig and the Steak. Which we did in the company of his magnificent 2000 Bordeaux paired against my 2007 Armand Rousseau - the last of the legendary Vinum Malaysia sale. The pig was its usual magnificent self, as was the lardo on Chef's oven baked bread, and the steak we had was stellar. Service was straightforward even though the place was quite full - Sapore seems to have made it in spades in its short time of existence. It is an easy place to relax into - not too many frills, quite homely with a few wall paintings for effect and soft lights. Haven't seen the Baron as relaxed as he was that night  - good food and wine will do that to you. 

Tuesday, November 21, 2017

Food Adventures January to July 2017 - April 2017

Prior to the two month sojourn around Wales, France and Sicily across August through to mid October, I had been a bit taken up with a project that took me away from the food and wine writing (and the songwriting and recording) but I then got a bit of a breather to try and reflect over where the Lengui and I had eaten over the previous couple of months (well, seven actually). So I figured rather than try to document them individually, better to just load them all into a single narrative and see how it looked. So this is a full-ish listing of where, when, and with whom we ate and drank over this period. Some are barely one liners, others have a bit more detail. Whatever, it made for a more than usually long read so it got broken down into months for ease of, er, digestion. Not sure if it will prove useful, but when taken in total it does represent quite a litany of gluttony. Phoooooooo....

April 1st Private Dinner at One World Hotel
This was a private room for about ten tables and pretty good vegetarian dishes. We were told by our host that it was to be followed with a talk by a Buddhist teacher so out of respect we didn't bring any wine. As it turned out we were sat on a table of serial boozers who equally didn't bring booze. I offered to go downstairs and grab a couple of whites and reds from the supermarket but was told no need. Next time I will listen to my better instincts. We drank (admittedly very good) Chinese tea all night and listened to about an hour of the Teaching before making excuses about it being way past bedtime. Which was true, but in reality we wanted to get away - these sessions can go on into the serious small hours and the devoted hang on to every word uttered by the guru while we less devoted choke back yawns out of politeness to the host. Whatever gets you through the night…

Sidethought - in gatherings of people of Chinese descent, I have observed that no one ever seems to want to make the first move to get up and go. I seem to recall reading once that the longer the evening goes on, the greater mark it is of the table enjoying itself which gives great "face" to the host or hostess. In contrast, leaving early is the reverse. It is also the case that when one gets up to go, then this can get interpreted as a signal for everyone else to also leave. So the result is that no one wants to be seen as the bad guy to get up and signal that the party is over when it might well be the fact that this is exactly what everyone wants to do! But trying to stay awake during a talk after an evening of sobriety - no. I'll listen to the podcast. We had some passengers to transport home so I got up at 11.45pm on the excuse of needing to get them to bed. Everyone said goodbye to us and then in total contrast to all of the above all sat back down to continue listening. I didn't get a podcast. 

April 3rd Banfi Wine Dinner at Stoked
Written up separately. The wine rep remembered me from a dinner he hosted when there was an Italian restaurant in Le Meridien. Wines were not spectacular then - same with now, though there was one that shone reasonably well. See separate post here>>>

April 4th Sapore with Amanti
This was our intro to Sapore and a belter it would prove to be. Lots of wine, fantastic food from Chef and a raucous night had by all. Magnificent Roast Pig, superb Rigatoni, and the Lardo on fresh baked olive bread was spectacular. The first of many visits. See separate post here>>>

April 5th Nadodi
This was a food tasting with the IWFS KL Committee to ascertain whether the place and the food were of sufficient standard to hold an event there. We bring our own wines and blag free corkage on the promise of bringing about 40 pax there. Committee was indeed sufficiently impressed to want to have an event. For some reason, it can't quite seem to get sorted...  See separate post here>>>

April 12th Sapore with Ho Chiak gang
For some reason, there was an invite to El Manica by the Porsche Club Malaysia and Lenglui and I got pressganged into joining the party. Not that it was a hardship. Well, not at first - seemed like the PCM had pretty much ordered the chef to empty the pantry given the amounts of food coming out. Way, way too much. But it was all darn good. Especially the T-Bone - oh, so good the meat. Give the Flint up the road a run for the money. Usual wines, lots of Italian - I finished off my stock of Ciu Ciu bought two years back from a friend of the Hustler (well, I thought I did - recent search on the shelves unearthed two more - can't seem to get shot of it...). Drinking well. Sucked down a few St Clairs and a magnificent bigass heavy thick bottled Chilean Cabernet whose name escapes at the moment. I have found that the bigger the bottle then the better the wine to be a general truism when it comes to both North and South American wines. This one was belter with the steak. 

April 14th Nam Lee Cheong
Not really a food report, just to include the NLC wine store on Jalan Bukit Bintang for old times sake. Used to be a regular at the monthly tastings, but I have sworn off them for a number of years now. I get very drunk, sing a few songs, buy wines which taste great at the time but not so later, and inflate my blood sugar and pressure as a total result. I prefer wine with food rather than getting chugged in such "tastings". And truth be told I don't really enjoy getting blitzed and shitfaced on wine; the hangovers are mental and the following day is wasted. At least with food you have something to soak up the booze. This one was a Montes tasting and some lovely wines were on show. Ended up buying a 2012 Montes M, their flagship Cabernet, on quite generous discount which I have drunk with pleasure on previous occasions. Chugged it recently with a home grilled US Ribeye, power and silk with a hint of green pepper and a wonderfully rich fulfilling finish. Very nice indeed. 

Nam Lee Cheong owner Tony Leong with Wine Girls
April 20th Soleil with IWFS
I have gotten into the habit of not taking notes at wine dinners of late. Partly is because for many places I have written on the food before and the wines and tastes all seem to roll into one set of standard adjectives and descriptors. The result feels that repetition seems to be creeping in. Also it does get in the way of enjoying the company and the booze due to frequent visits to the notepad. I originally thought this was one of them since I couldn't find a note anywhere. Then they showed up. Will look to write up soonest.

Short version is that Chef was well on form and the paired wines from magnum were well good. I have memories of remaining sat with Mossie and The Jag and scouring the bottles for the vinous remains of the day. Vaguely remember getting lucky. No prisoners taken. 

Menu
Small Appetiser - Snapper Carpaccio, Calamansi Sorbet
Tribaut Brut NV, Champagne
Entree
Irish Oyster and Duck Liver Snow - Brined Tomato Jelly, Avocado Foam, Cucumber Broth
Grand Bateau Blanc 2015, Bordeaux
Hors D'Oeuvre
Seafood Risotto - Grilled Fremantle Octopus, turkey Chorizo, Piquillo Pepper
Fibbiano Casalini Chianti Superiore 2013 Tuscany
Mains
Grilled Northsea Cod, Soft Sheel Crab Crumble, Miso Bearnaise, Green Pea Coulis
Veal Tenderloin, Roasted Sunchoke Puree, Baby Vegetables, Bali Long Pepper Sauce
La Fleur Du Bouard 2011 St Emilion
Fleur Cardinale 2011 St Emilion
Dessert
Poached Peach, Vanilla Panna Cotta, Belini Sorbet, Raspberry- Tomato Coulis
Chateau D'Anna 2010 Sauteurnes

April 23rd G8 Lunch
This is one of Doc Wine's foodie groups that has been going for a number of years, all having met at a Wine and Spirit training course. The Doc's squeeze was cooking Nyonya and he roped me and Lenglui in to join the fun. Each G8 member brings a covered bottle and the assembled seek to ascertain on a blind tasting what it is. Some lovelies get brought by the members. I brought my remaining Weinbach Capuchin Pinot Gris brought back from the Alsace trip which was well received - lean, sweet and crisp with a chewy honey apple that has yet to finish - can still taste it now. Amazingly tasty food, full of spice fire and texture, and which showcased the thoughtfully selected wines to some excellent degrees. Spice and serious light to mid textured wines make for some wonderfully perfect matches. Brilliant, brilliant lunch and all the more so for being wonderfully convivial and vinously serious but not overly so. 
Salut!!
Egg and Prawn Salad with spicy Thousand Island style sauce 
Kangkung leaf - crisp and chewy
Brilliant Pineapple Salad with cucumber, nuts and spice
Wicked Chicken
Roll of Honour
April 27th Dewakan with Leeuwin Estate wines
Organised by Michelle from AsiaEuro wines to showcase the new vintage of this winery of legend. We got a heads up at a previous dinner and on arrival found ourselves on a table with IWFS chums. 

Located in Margaret River in WA, the Leeuwin Estate wines are praised high to the heavens by the Wine world and probably rightly so. The pretty and well laid out marketing card we got on the table listed all the big names and all the nice things they said. The Chardonnay has ranked in the high 90s by WS, Halliday and Vintage since the 2007 vintage. Indeed, I now recall a magnificent Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chard I had with Lenglui at a specially paired Gourmet Wine Dinner on board the Crystal Serenity. Can't remember the vintage, but the Cruise was May 2015 and moored off Monaco. The dinner was a bit ordinary but this was a standout wine. The winery is also to be lauded for commissioning art works to grace the annual labels (like Mouton Rothschild). Absolutely in full agreement. Which is why I was a bit miffed that this evening didn't quite cut it for me. Probably it was that the wines were all new vintages and all in clear need of bottle time before being paired with food. The early whites were racy, inside cheek rippers and not quite in balance on this palate. I found the first Sem/SB blend a bit on the sweetly light side and pretty non descript, though our table seemed to guzzle quite a lot of it. The Riesling felt it had some potential, and drew the accolades from the Kiwi, but the higher acidity seemed to need time to even out. The Chardonnay….  I didn't get it. Perhaps in need of a different location and a different dish.  And notwithstanding some lovely offers on the lovelies for the night, on this showing they were a bit of a long shot punt for me for adding to the wine cellar - I prefer a bit of lightness on the palate than these bold chest whackers seemed to be presenting. The Dewakan food was its usual stellar standard, though the wines looked like they had been shoehorned into the menu and didn't really pair well. I would have omitted the Cabernet and doubled the Chard with the Duck and put the Shiraz for the Quail. I might also have brought some earlier vintages to compare and contrast. But that's me. There you go.

Menu
aperitif
2016 Siblings Semillon/Saugignon Blanc
Prawn Umai and Green Sambal
Art Series Riesling
Puding Jagung
Art Series Sauvignon Blanc
Slow Cooked Red Snapper
Art Series Chardonnay
Roast Duck Breast with "Blood " Sauce
Art Series Shiraz
Roast Quail with Century Egg Puree
Art Series Cabernet Sauvignon
Gula Melaka Marquise and Pulut Ice Cream


Popsicles

Thursday, April 6, 2017

Three Nights, Three Wine Dinners - Stoked, Sapore and Nadodi

April 6th 2017

Wow…  three wine dinners on the bounce this week. Photos are a bit grim, having been taken with the Samsung. Getting a bit lazy to take the old Sony, and the big flash does annoy the table guests. But I think we still can see the dishes quite well - welcome to another slice of my food scribbles!

French Duck Breast - un peu froid
First off was a Banfi Wine Dinner at Stoked on Monday April 3rd. Second was the Amanti della Cucina Italiano at Sapore on Tuesday the 4th. And third was an IWFS food tasting at Nadodi on the Wednesday April 5th. It is now Thursday the 6th and I am pretty muzzy and fuzzed - that little tweaking behind the eyes that tells you "tonight you must take a night off the sauce". But then you remember you have a couple of half opened bottles in the fridge and you think "how to not finish them off?" We'll see - some of the wines don't do too well after a chilling in the fridge and grudgingly get poured down the sink - some not salvageable even by the little aerator thingy or blending with other half bottles in the fridge. Damn sad.

Iberico Presa - beaucoup froid!!
I digress. Castello Banfi at Stoked started well with a delightfully light and fruity fizz going with some raw fish and woody truffle canapes. The white was equally pleasant in a chugging cheery kind of way with just enough of a hint of character to pique the interest - quite unusual for Pinot Grigio in my experience. It also paired well with the sweet and tasty Prawns and Burrata Cheese - lovely combo this, and well zinged up by the sweet boozy vinaigrette. Two reds came out with the duck and the Bolgheri Rosso was lovely - medium lush and chewy fruit and tannin in a lovely even balance that had us buying another bottle for an end of the evening nightcap. Friendly prices too, though not for the long term - two years, maybe three, but lovely drinking now. The Chianti was a bit standard Banfi - lean and taut - whilst the Brunello was firm and full but frankly forgettable. Also got recognised by Banfi Regional Manager Guillaume Blanchard who was on hand to host and guide us all through the wines. Lenglui and I had attended a Banfi dinner some years back at Le Meridien when it used to have an Italian restaurant there. Better wines tonight than then. Far better. That previous one had frankly put me off Banfi wines - found them thin, fierce, and tight. Tonight it got redeemed. 

May and The Money
The Money and the Banker
Foodwise, the evening got a bit marred by two dishes coming out cold and needing to get sent back and, in the case of the main pork, needing to get replaced with beef as no more pork available. Not sure what went wrong, but all were full of apologies and an extra glass of the good stuff got poured to help recompense. Hmmm…   not sure what it is with Stoked - it has evenings that are total Brahma, and then it trips up with something like this. I think there were some new staff drafted who were perhaps not as fully trained as might have been hoped for. Chef Yau's fish dishes are pretty much always on point - the raw fish canapes and prawns were excellent - but somehow the meat dishes don't always seem to hit the mark for me. Sorry, but I never feel as stunned as I feel I should be. But then Chef Evert's meat at Soleil was similar, but eventually he started putting out some wonderful meat. I live in hope. 

Lenglui and new friends
Stoked
120 Jalan Kasah, 
Medan Damansara, 
50490 Kuala Lumpur

Menu
Trio of Canapés
Banfi Tener Brut NV

Tai Fish
Sweet Prawn, Burrata Cheese, Champagne & Honey Vinaigrette
Banfi San Angelo Toscana IGT 2014

French Duck Breast
Plum, Fennel, Blueberry Caramel Sauce
Banfi Chianti Classico DOCG Riserva 2013 
Banfi Aska Bolgheri DOC Rosso 2013

100% Acorn-Fed Iberico Presa
Portobello Mushroom, Pecorino Cheese, Edible Flowers
Banfi Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2011

Coconut Sorbet
Coconut Water, Baked Banana, Coconut Chips

Coffee or Tea

Petits Fours

Sapore is a new kid on the block and the latest venture of Chef Federico. Cutting his teeth at Pietro and getting some chops at Marini's on 57, he is now going back to his roots and serving up some damn fine home style Italian cooking. From start to finish, the food was outstanding. We started with ham, mortadella, salami and the most amazing lardo that was total tongue zapping gangbusters with some salty oven baked bread. Next was a Wild Boar ragout with large tubes of Rigatoni pasta (some said a shade overboiled, but I found mine pretty much perfect) which was all taste and firm whack in the craw. The Suckling Pig was magnificent - tender, cooked, smelling and tasting of thyme and rosemary - fantastic. Roast potatoes could have been crisper (a shade mushy on the bite) but the pig…   I later noticed it was not on the menu so perhaps it is special order. Tiramisu dessert was damn near perfect - light, coffee, cream and cold. Belter.

We brought our own wines - a Vivo Prosecco and a 2013 Fontodi Chianti. Prosecco was pleasant, and kept quite cool in the IWFS Bag. The Chianti was a bit mean - thinnish fruit and prominent tannin. Austere would be a good word here. But the leftovers got blended with a roughish jammy leftover bordeaux at home to produce a half drinkable nightcap.

Sapore is well worth a return visit though be advised that unless you are desperately lucky, the parking in the area sucks. I ended up halfway down a dark road outside someone's large and well electrified house. Chef also does a 1.2kg Steak, so that sounds like a date with the Baron at some near future time.

Nadodi Maitre D' and friend
Sapore
18 Persiaran Ampang, 
Desa Pahlawan, Ampang 
55000 KL
Tel +603 42666362
email: sapore18my@gmail.com

MENU 
Antipasti tagliere
Mix of the best of Italian cold cut from parma , capocollo , salami , Lardo di collonata , mortadella , served with pickled vegetable

Pasta
Rigatoni pasta with Tuscany style  and pecorino romano

Main
Suckling pig porchetta style served with roasted potato

Dessert
Home made vanilla gelato
Tiramisu 

Nadodi (which apparently is Hindi for "wanderer") is the latest place to take the premises that once housed the legendary Il Lido on Jalan Yap Kwan Seng. There have been a couple of attempts to kickstart subsequent eateries on the premises, though none seem to have taken hold. The Architect seems to think the Feng Shui there is not so good - it is muscled in on pretty much all sides by some bigass neighbours that tower above it. Whatever, some serious money has been spent on it, and it now sports a fine dining Indian Cuisine restaurant on Level One and a swanky bar on Level Two. 
Destroyed Staple - evaporated in a single bite

The menu blurb runs:
"Modernity and tradition go hand-in-hand at Nadodi. Our artisanal creations make creative use of exclusively sourced ingredients and specialty farmed produce to earn a place at our table, and on your plate. We harness completely contemporary techniques and retrofit an age old traditional recipe with modernity. This can result in surprising discoveries and an absolutely fresh perspective on familiar cuisine tropes that must be experienced."

Lactose Free - Fish Flakes and Sambol - two bites
So it was not Indian Fusion cuisine as someone along the line had told us. Some foodie friends had been under the impression that Nadodi was Indian Fusion cuisine - it is not; there is no other cuisine with which the recipes were fused. But one does need a bit of a sense of adventure to come here. And also to mentally get away from the mindset that sees Indian cuisine as the preserve of the roadside. But the rewards are very pleasant. It is indeed fine dining Indian cuisine with some lovely touches and delightful tastes.  The evening had been organised by the Doc with a view to hosting a future IWFS event there. And on this showing, it looks like it should happen soon. 

Out Of The Shell - Scallop and Foam
Alleppey Lobster and Coconut Crumble
We spent a short time at the upstairs bar with our glasses of bubbles, and gawping at the single Twin Tower we could see peeking behind one of the neighbours. This bar is beyond swanky - red and black and high end sofas with some open air space to listen to the low hum of the Jalan Ampang traffic. Tiger prints seem to abound, and there seems some association with a London club of the same name. It felt a bit overwhelming and macho, and I didn't feel quite comfortable (never quite seem to in these muscle bars) and was glad when we got called to dinner. Though the staff there were most friendly and accommodative. Paid RM53 for Lenglui's VAT (Vodka and Tonic - anyone remember Minder?).

We got sat in a private room that will take about 16 at a stretch and Maitre D' started us off with a nice bit of theatre whereby what looked like a large empty wall frame became a window into the kitchen. We were to have what was billed as the Six Mile Run - a six dish degustation of revisited Indian cuisine. The first two courses did not look promising in terms of diners feeling full at the end of it all - both were half bite size morsels of wonderful tastes and blends but frighteningly tiny. More than half the table thought we would be heading for Char Kwey Teow supper, which thinking was reinforced by dishes three and four - barely two bites apiece. But it all came together with dish five - basically Chicken Biryani with solid rice and amazing sauces. And second helpings of rice and sauce if needed. This brought it all together and laid the replete stomach foundation for dish six dessert which came across like creamy cold and crunchy cendol. 

Dravidian Nation - Chicken Biriyani and sauces - yum!
The quality of the food, its presentations and descriptions, the service of both food and wine were top class. Well worth a visit to impress friends and educate those who feel one should not pay top dollar for food you can get on the streets for a fraction of the cost. We paid RM200 for the six and I would definitely go back for a similar experience. Winewise, we had various Champagnes, a delightful SB from a new NZ vineyard discovered by The Money. The Architect brought a bottle of Pingus, there was a CdR to finish and I think a Bordeaux somewhere in the mix. And May brought a Rose, which was found to be perfect with much of the food, especially the lobster. 

Mind of a Coconut - sounds like some people I know...
Slight gripe on the parking - was told valet would be RM10 (I think only valet is possible - little to no parking anywhere near the place on the outside) but only got RM30 back from a fifty. Might have been a genuine mistake, but I was in a rush and only found out on getting home. Thinking on it, perhaps this is why the place cannot ever take off - there is no easy parking, and one thing that Malaysians DO tend to expect when it comes to eating is easy and free/cheap parking; if cannot park within ten yards of the eaterie then no matter how good the food they'll cold shoulder it. Maybe Nadodi should buy the chunk of land next door and build a car park - now THAT will make money. Maybe I should talk to the Architect...

The Ceramic Football of Biriyani
Nadodi 
Lot 183 of, Jalan Mayang, Kampung Baru, 
50450 Kuala Lumpur, 
Malaysia
Open 6pm to 10pm
Tel: +603 21814334

Menu - The Six Mile Journey

Destroyed Staple

Lactose Free
Fish flakes, Sambol

Out of the Shell
Chettinad Scallops, Tamarind froth

Silence Of Our Lamb
Sous Vide Lamb, Curry Leaf Ash
OR
Alleppey Lobsters
Poached Lobster Tails, Coconut Mango Crumble

Dravidian Nation
Country-chicken Biriyani, Silver Burst

Mind Of a Coconut
Cane Sugar, Sea Coconut