Chinoz on the Park - well tasty!

Elsewhere on this blog there's a report on the L'Heritage, the initial choice of the IWFS for its February beano, and how it didn't pass the Food Sub Committee's standard. The Governor quickly roped in Wee Jeh of Chinoz to put together a dinner for the members with which the Wine Sub Comm did a quick pairing. Notice went out and 39 members and guests responded positively. For this one I would be without Lenglui who had abandoned me for a ship and is happily cruising along the Asian Pacific Rim as I write.  

Chinoz has been a KL standard for over two decades. Starting off in Bangsar offering food of substance and refined presentation, they have been in their present location at KLCC for a good number of years. The restaurant enjoys one of the prime locations on the Ground Level of the Twin Towers. It has recently been renovated and now exudes a chic ambience of glass with greys and browns. There is a terrace outside where patrons have the perfect view of the KLCC Park and the Dancing Fountains. Chinoz on the Park offers Mediterranean style cuisine along with seafood from their Raw Bar and is open pretty much all throughout the day. Lenglui and I have eaten there many times in the past, usually en route to a concert at the MPO. Their pizzas were magnificent, but they stopped doing them at the KLCC. Sad day that was. We still go but now we alternate with Ben's upstairs - magnificent salads and steak sandwich. Quite generous with the wines, too.

Notwithstanding, the Chinoz on the Park continues to be one of the default destinations for IWFS when we get stuck for somewhere to host a function. Owner and fellow IWFS member Teng Wee Jeh always comes through with a menu and a venue and IWFS just brings the booze.... well actually, Wee Jeh brought the booze on this occasion; he operates a wine storage facility where we cellar our wines. I went there the day before to box and pack them and his boys sent them to the restaurant. Top man.

Duck Liver Terrine Canapes

I got there well early, opting to drive straight from the office rather than go home and face a possible massive jam trying to get to KLCC later in the evening. Popped in to the Chinoz just to see that all was shipshape (which it was) only to find I had been beaten there by the Doc. He evidently had the same idea as me - beat the traffic. I went for a wander around the KLCC to my usual haunts - bookstore, Macstore, Best Denki, Rock Corner, Marks and Sparks - before heading back to join the other early birds who were already quaffing the very tasty Vettori Valdobbiadene Prosecco. This was a recommendation from DocWine who had shared a few with new friend Wai Lun of Bottles and Bottles. Lovely wine, clean tasting, not overly high in acidity but enough to be fresh as the smell of cut grass on a mild spring breeze, and magnificent bubbles that swirled in a whirlpool of delight straight up the middle of the glass. Went very nicely with the duck terrine and croquette canapes being circulated by Chinoz staff.

Got fizz? GOT!! Dato Jeremy Diamond with Mr and Mrs George Lee

They had parked us at the back end of the restaurant, a lovely space which can be cordoned off from the entrance area where beer and sandwiches seemed to be popular. We had five tables with eight seats apiece in medium lighting. Having a separate area does help lend a sense of occasion to proceedings. We got seated and the Doc introduced me to talk about the wines. Not at my most comfortable doing this - hard enough trying to find words to describe wine but to do it with an audience is quite scary. Also not as fast talking on my feet as I used to be. Just tried to explain the decisions behind the wine choices and the degree of educated guesswork that goes into it. Point is, we don't often get the chance to taste the wines in advance because if it belongs to the IWFS then we have to account for it which means one less bottle for members to drink. In this, though, we do have a large databank of committee experience to rely on. For example, Bordeaux and Burgundy for mains choices where Continental style beef, lamb and fish are being served, decent fizz to start with, so it's often only the whites for the entree and soup that need some decisions. We also try to clear the wines in the cellar that are in their drinking window, otherwise they can fall flat on the night. I also invited the members to give their views on whether the matches were good, sat down and everyone said nice things. Very kind, the IWFS members.

The Amuse Bouche was a chunk of tuna wrapped in cucumber with what tasted like wasabi mayo dotted with pearls of caviar. Very pretty on the plate, it all proved a full lilting mouthful of smooth texture with the wasabi mayo smoothing the tuna and the little hit of salt from the pearl lending a pop on the tongue. Went very nicely with the Prosecco with the food giving it a hit of pear for some reason. 

Amuse Bouche

The Torbreck came out looking all golden and honeyed in the glass. A blend of Rousanne, Marsanne and Viogner grapes, the nose felt a bit nondescript but the mouth was all explosive crisp apricots which turned to lush persimmon as it warmed in the glass. Kept its crispness throughout as well - belter of a wine.

I have little to no note on the Smoked Haddock, though I seem to remember feeling my egg was over-poached and half yolked. It did look pretty, though. The egg was magnificent with the fresh bread and brilliant butter - all salt, goo, crust and carbo and tasting like a French breakfast in some Beaune farmhouse. Totally timeless and totally sublime. Please remind me - why am I writing about fine food when some of my favourite tastes come from the simplest ingredients?

Warm Salad of Smoked Haddock

Seemed to be eating a lot of the bread and butter to ease the growls in the belly. Usually this is not a good sign since it signals the food is a bit needing in volume. Maybe things will change with the soup...

I had praised up the Te Koko during my introduction, saying that tonight was the night after numerous attempts to swill the thing. It was indeed very nice - rich mouth, nose of apricot and butterscotch, steel crisp prunes on the downslope with a hint of attack and grip on the tonsil - but not great. The balance was somewhat off, with a tinge of oxide cack in the mouth and tart tang on the finish. Bit like a tangerine going soft. Past the prime for me, though still a great wine.

Veloute of Oyster with Unagi and Croquettes

The Veloute of Oyster with all its attendant tastes (unagi, lemon oil, avruga) felt a bit bland for some reason. The single oyster had wonderfully fresh texture but after its swim in the Veloute seemed to have become somewhat devoid of taste. It was also a bit...  oyster-ey for me. Having that slight gamey aged feel about it, like when fish becomes fishy or lamb becomes lamb-ey. Perhaps this was the Veloute effect, bringing that fundamental quintessential oyster taste to the fore. Don't know.

The unagi had been royally grilled to a crisp and was looking like a slice of crispy bacon, which seemed also to have left it somewhat devoid of taste. The croquette showed potential, but mine could have used a better balance of fish over the potato and a good whack of lemon pepper in the mix. I think I understand the thinking behind the arrangement and presentation of the ingredients - is just that the final combo came across as a bit snuzz and not really memorable for me. Maybe the kitchen was playing it a bit safe?

The Te Koko did not really match the Veloute, but then on reflection what to pair with soup? My thinking was that the complexity of the wine would balance the complexity of the food. It didn't for me. Actually, those that had some Torbreck remaining in the glass were rewarded since its rich blend of chewy grapes paired way better than the more complex Kiwi Warrior.  There you go - know for next time. Don't pair your best wines with soup. Simple wine with complex soup. Yes.

I had requested lamb which came out somewhat tubular and cylindrical - quite phallic in its own way, though whether this was intentional on the part of the chef remains unknown. Made it a bit firm on the cutting, but the meat was excellent. Lovely bite and chew on some wonderfully fresh meat. The jus set the lamb off nicely. Never had Freekeh before - Wikipedia says it is a cereal made from green wheat that has been sundried and roasted. Arabian in origin, the name derives from "farik" which translates into "rubbed" and is high in fibre. Tastewise, it put me in mind of Couscous though much firmer and crunchier in texture, like slightly undercooked lentils oozing goodness. The Morel offered a pleasing textural contrast here, and the combo with the jus was delightful - rubber bite on the Morel matching the crunch of the Freekeh and bound together in lamb jus goo. Yum.

Smoked Lamb Fillet with Freekah, Morel and Herb

Table friends said the Beef was very good - no reports on the fish.

Winewise, both the Monthelie and Cotes du Lunelles showed nicely. The medium weight Monthelie was peaking, with warm spice notes on the nose and a steel clean fruit wallop across the inside of the cheeks and finishing quite long. The Lunelles proved to be the star, with its full mouth and great balance across the elements. Sweet coffee and gunmetal in the mouth with a velvet fire finish. Though with a tiny hint of age poking through - methinks may need to quaff the remaining bottles quite soon. 

Wagyu Sirloin

The Sarawak Pineapple Tart Dessert had been specially prepared by Sandra, Wee Jeh's wife, and looked like a Van Gogh sunflower nailed to an ice cream moon being melted by a fruit tart sun. Lovely colours here, all rich browns, yellows and caramels. With an eye on my diabetes, I had a quick taste - firm and full caramel and toffee tastes in the mouth and hugely filling. The Black Pepper Ice Cream felt like a nod to San Sebastian and Mugaritz, and worked. A massively bold and powerful dessert. Some on our table questioned the weight of the dish in its following on from the foregoing texturally more lighter weight offerings. This dessert did indeed feel a bit a bit large on the palate given the sequence and delicate combinations of the earlier dishes - perhaps something lighter in taste and texture would have fit better. But as I recall they all scarfed it down bigtime. 

Sarawak Pineapple Tart with Black Pepper Ice Cream

In sum, yet another pleasant dinner in the charming ambience that is Chinoz on the Park. Some lovely wines, quite well matched with the food, though the Te Koko disappointed. The Prosecco surprised on the upside, most people enjoyed the Torbreck and the Bordeaux and the Monthelie was most pleasant. Other feedback suggested people thought both the food and the wines were excellent (both individually and in pairing terms) though sequentially perhaps the dessert was a bit on the heavy side for ending the meal. As said, Wee Jeh always comes through for the IWFS at short notice and always delivers. Great service, engaging food and very nice wines in the company of gourmands - doesn't get much better. Cheers!!

Chef Mohd Hisham bin Abu Bakar with Chinoz Floor Manager and IWFS KL President Dr Rajan

The Menu

AMUSE BOUCHE

Vettori Valdobbiadene Brut NV

WARM SALAD OF SMOKED HADDOCK

with a SOFT POACHED EGG & A LIGHT CURRY CREAM

Torbreck Roussane Viogner Marsanne 2011

VELOUTE OF OYSTERS with UNAGI, SALT COD,

LEMON OIL & AVRUGA

Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc Te Koko, Marlborough, New Zealand 2008

WAGYU SIRLOIN

with QUINOA & ROASTED SPROUT SALAD,

BEET & TRUFFLE PUREE, BEARNAISE SAUCE

Or

SMOKED LAMB FILLET with FREEKAH, MORELS, HERBS

Or

PAN ROASTED MONK FISH with CRISPY QUINOA

Bouchard Pere et Fils Monthelie, Cotes De Beaune 2005

Clos Les Lunelles Cotes De Castillon 2005

SARAWAK PINEAPPLE TART

with Black Pepper Ice Cream

TEA / COFFEE

Chinoz on the Park owner Teng Wee Jeh with IWFS Member Andrew Diamond

The Wines

Vettori Valdobbiadene Brut NV

Skilled winemaking with Glera grapes make Vettori stand out among this renowned producer of Prosecco di Conegliano Valdobbiadene Brut. 

Crisp and savoury on the palate, with a chalky note underlining sensations of peach and grapefruit with a ripe apple core which finishes traditional dry with refreshing acidity. An exemplar of freshness in a dry balanced style with mid palate citrus a fine mousse and a lingering finish. 

Torbreck Woodcutter’s Roussane Viogner Marsanne 2011

Roussanne (60%) provides structure and finesse as well as helps tie the three varieties together. The Viognier (29%) offers a pure, floral lift and finishes the wine with refinement and elegance and Marsanne (11%) gives the wine some palate texture and richness.

The 2011 Woodcutters RVM yields subtle floral notes over a core of fresh pears and white peaches. Dry, light to medium-bodied an elegantly fruited of honeyed peach in the mouth, it finishes with gentle medium to long persistence.  (Wine Advocate: 88/100)

Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc Te Koko 2008

Te Koko o Kupe (The Oyster Dredge of Kupe) is named after a mythical Maori super hero warrior and it is the original name of the sweeping Cloudy Bay area on the Marlborough coast line.

The 2008 Te Koko is "an intriguing and unique expression of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. Aromas of lemon thyme, mandarin blossom and stonefruit combine with ginger spice, toasted nuts and savoury tones - underlined by exotic tropical notes most typical of this aromatic varietal. The many-layered palate is creamy and textured, balanced by a clean, mineral acidity. A wine of persistent flavour and intensity." 

Bouchard Pere et Fils Monthelie, Cotes De Beaune 2005

The parcel is tended by a vine-grower who works the vineyard with the cycle of nature up to the harvest to enable the terroir to fully express its nuances across the vintages. 

Garnet colour with purple shades. Intense bouquet marked by black fruit flavours (blueberry, blackberry), sweet spices and mocha. Aromatic and willowy to the palate, the wine expresses a delicate softness with a refined structure.

Clos Les Lunelles Cotes De Castillon 2005

Clos Lunelles remains one of the top Bordeaux wines of the Cotes de Castillon appellation. 

The wine's violet color is so superbly deep and dense that it is almost opaque, an eloquent sign of the maturity that is typical of the 2005 vintage. A ripe fruitiness of blackberries and black cherry jam is balanced by the mentholated and lively, fresh notes of a mature harvest. In the mouth, vibrant tannins give the wine a sound and tight structure, and the mid-palate shows great texture which is made for aging. A mouth-watering finish is long and generous, prolonging the wine's flavor. Tannins and acidity contribute significantly to its impressive structure. This is a superb wine which requires time: about five to eight years will bring out a more complex range of aromas.

The Wine Advocate - "This is the greatest Cotes de Castillon I have ever tasted." (RP 94 WS 92)

IWFS at Fresca - Hey Rosita! Muy Bien!!

January 22, 2015

I was initially well apprehensive of this one. Previous experience with so called Mexican cuisine was limited to manky tortillas from some forgettable fast food place filled with gritty beef and chopped raw onion and peppers (and you all know how I feel about peppers) and doused in Tabasco. Ptooey. The only thing able to save this pretty tasteless concoction was the copious amount of beer that accompanied it. Kept me up all night, as I recall, and much of the following day was so windy that it was still typhoons in the bathtub at the end of the day soak. Not pleasant. 

But Lenglui decided that it was way beyond time that we try the place, and there was some kind of family connection whereby non attendance would have been quite bad form, so I gritted my teeth and sent off the acceptance slip. 

It would turn out surprisingly good.

Fresca entrance

Located in the Gardens in the Mid Valley district of Kuala Lumpur, The Fresca Mexican Kitchen and Bar "brings classic Mexican cuisine to Kuala Lumpur. The idea for Fresca (which means "fresh" or "cool") came about by two adventure-seeking siblings who fell in love with Mexican food and the country's passion for La Vida. Fresca specialises in "botanas", which are small plates that make it easy for sharing, something that KL folk do like to do. Fresca prides itself on using only the freshest ingredients, stating that  their pico de gallo and guacamole are prepared daily and corn tortillas are home-made and hand-pressed the traditional way.

The Cava Boys

Arriving after an appetite whetting walk around the delightful Gardens Mall (with detours into the Bottles Wine Store and Cold Storage to check out wine prices) there was a nice buzz about the place. The outside gave off a kind of wooden coffee shop feel with tables and chairs outside and people sat there eating. Inside saw more of the same, and the place was humming with people - for a Thursday, this was a good sign that the place is doing well. Dimly lit to lend a shady atmosphere, we were led through the cafe and bar to a back room where four tables had been laid out to accommodate the 36 of us who had signed up for the dinner. It was perhaps a little bit cramped for space as the welcome bubbles had been placed just inside the entrance and everyone naturally stands near the booze to make refills easier. But people get naturally "urged" inside by weight of numbers coming through the door, and the space at the back of the room got quickly filled up with conviviality. Natural physics in the social world is a wonderful thing to behold. 

May Peng, Dr Su Kim and Lenglui

The IWFS Notice talked about the Fresca interior combining "rustic charm, from textured wooden panels to elaborate brickwork arches, with contemporary industrial elements, of exposed ceiling and tall metal doors. Mexico's rich cultural heritage and vibrancy are captured by the striking coloured talavera tiles as well as hand-crafted ceramics and paintings displayed around the restaurant." Well, and yes. There were certainly lots of red earth adobe tones about the place which had me humming the old Commodores "Brick House" tune - "She's a Brick - dum dum duuuuum dum-dum - House". Go find it on Youtube. There was one wall of turquoise diamonds that lent a contrast - these must have been the talavera tiles - and a huge mirror on the back wall gave tremendous space. There was some charming artwork adorning the adobe walls and these definitely broke up the brickhouse feel. 

The Tortilla Chip man

The first fizz was apparently an upgrade if I heard correctly. It was crisp and chewy, giving a good rasp and sandpaper down the semi parched throat. A look at the label showed it to be the Freixinet Cordon Negro, a workmanlike Cava available on the supermarket shelves for a not unreasonable price. Previous chuggings of this fizz found it to have been a bit wanting, but tonight it was on song. Perhaps it just needed some zappy Latin style food to let its Spanish roots resonate. Good enjoyable fizz, which went excellently well with the very tasty Canapes -  the Guacamole on the Tortilla chips were well textured and full of fresh creamy taste whilst the batter on the  Beer Battered Fish was airily light and feathery and with a pleasant wasabi kick on the lips that got neatly soothed by the fizz. 

Dinner got called to order and President Dr Rajan introduced the night's organiser Wong Yin-How to share some details and descriptions of the wines. In a light and breezy talk which held the crowd well, WYH said that given the context of Mexican cuisine, the better vinous matches would naturally be from Spain and Latin America. As a result, we would be having Cava from Spain, Chardonnay from Argentina, two Spanish Riojas and a Cab/Malbec blend again from Argentina. I have a note about WYH saying that the white was a "meditative" wine. Yes. Not sure if there are too many meditators in the IWFS. And didn't have much of a chance to meditate on it that evening. I shall buy a bottle next time I am at WYH's Ribs or Vintry and try to meditate on it. Yes. Om.

Fresca interior

The Ceviche came to the table and proved to be another zap on the mouth and lips. Crisp onion bite and what felt like a hint of chili oil popped on the lime cured raw fish to create a trippy mouthful of textures and tastes which fired up the mouth and seared the throat a treat on the way down. Here, the fizz proved its magnificence to douse the fires raging around the tonsils and throat into a blissful singe. Total belter. Wonder if they have fizz in Mexico? Nah - too hot, can't grow grapes. Marketing opportunity for California? 

Ceviche - well tasty and well piquant

The Chardonnay came across as fairly full bodied with good butter though not so much that it overpowered everything - something thankfully that the world seems to be getting away from. Getting tropical fruit on this one - papaya, banana. Little bit oaky on its own, but brought into very pleasant balance by the food.  Certainly a good match with the Ceviche, though it didn't quite douse some salsa/chili fire that was lingering in the throat. Fizz was the better match here, more for soothing qualities than any taste sense.

Dr Rajan calling to order

We were sat with YC and Marathon Man Dr Jag and all getting in a good mood, talking about an upcoming IWFS Trip to Austria. Good company, lots of verbal humour. Happy crowd. 

The 2001 Faustino came out and the first reaction was "wow". Plum and black cherry nose with a hint of pepper and herbs. Bit of garnacha on the nose, that Spanish bricky baked berry sniff. Bit of age in the first sip. Medium body, with a big mouth of rich dark fruit leading to a long lush finish. Not normally a fan of the Faustino, but on this showing I could be converted.

The soup was brought to the table, and my worst fears appeared realised - it was fiery blood red in colour and full of floating bits that saw it looking like a vampire's breakfast. However, a little sip found it to be quite agreeable with avocado textures and bits of tortilla soaking up the chili broth juice. Like a really spicy tomato soup with tortilla toast croutons that lingered in the mouth and coated the teeth with a grainy film of taste. Very interesting - lots of flavours and fires going on, but not so that it burned the tastebuds.

Ended up totally loving the soup - it came across like a Tom Yam with pan bread strips but without that big fire that whacks everything. You could really feel the spice on this soup - and there was a little voice somewhere inside that was saying I was going to pay some bigtime penance for it tomorrow. Told it to shut up - would be worth it.

Sopa de Tortilla - the Vampire Soup

The Fresco Service is very pleasant and friendly. Mostly Filipino by the sound of the accents. One rarely see Malaysians in the mid to high end service industry these days. Lots in the fast food joints, but fewer and fewer in the restaurants. Perhaps they have all gone to Singapore?

"My Papaya tree is THIS big..."

The Faustino didn't do much for the soup. But in fairness, there's not much out there that would. This potent red blooded beast would need a massive wine to battle with the spice. But then one should perhaps question whether it would really be worth it? Spice is a natural wine killer, so maybe sometimes better to leave it at that and not stand on the ceremony of having a wine with every dish. Definitely a good attempt at a match, but ultimately perhaps a waste of a belting wine that could have better been reserved for the later dishes. Indeed, after the Vampire soup the Faustino got whacked - it still had fair fruit and acidity, but the balance got a bit lost and ended up showing a thinnish body and medium finish and not much bite in the mouth. So it goes.

The wines were very prompt in coming to the table, though there was a bit of a slowdown before the main courses came out. Guess the kitchen needed to catch its breath a bit. It was also catering to regular punters as well as us IWFS which must create potential for things to get a bit frantic backstage.

The Gaudi Rioja out next got life. Full dark ripe fruit, bit of pepper on the nose and a hint of Garnacha cherry in the mouth, paving the way for a medium yet firm finish with fair length. The lively fruit and the crisp chewy tannins dancing in the mouth made this one a real temptress. You could imagine running after this one through the streets of Pamplona, and her teasing and tempting you with her lustrous rewards if you managed to beat the bulls. A young Sophia Loren ready to be ravaged and singing "Catch Me If You Can" - totally lovely. 

Beef Tenderloin Fajitas waiting for Guacamole and Tortilla

In complete contrast, the Beef came out all masculine and testosterone with a swathe of protein smells radiating off - almost as if the cow had somehow overdosed on hormones. Perhaps it had been a bull? These Fajitas were Muy Macho, all hot and sizzling, and somehow almost sensual. You just wanted to attack them with some primal abandon and chew them into total submission. Only problem with doing that would have been the seeming kilogram of pepper cooked into the meat that would have you screaming for mercy and running for the cold tap and ice cubes to extinguish the raging fires in the mouth. This is where the genius of Mexican cuisine comes to the fore - it knows that the antidote to all of this is warm tortilla and guacamole, totally fresh and made from best wheat flour and avocados. And here it was that Fresca really scored - both the Guacamole and Tortilla were perfect. Smooth, creamy and soothing Guacamole and a light, firm Tortilla slap of low salted dough with a bouncy bite and light mush on the chew. Throw the Macho Beef and onion into the Tortilla, slather on the Guacamole, add a little salsa, roll the whole so it will fit into the mouth and….  phwooooooooargh. That creamy Avocado balm just sucked out the fire of the peppers to leave total taste. Same with the textures, with the dough leaching out the proteins of the beef and onion adding a slight crunch with salsa zip and Guacamole balm. Aiyo. Soul food in its purest form and an absolute beauty. Taste of the year so far. 

Cordero Estofado (Lamb Shank) - didn't taste

The Catena Zapata was an Argentinian Cabernet and Malbec blend clearly made to drink with meat, but with enough balance and body to pique and intrigue. Lot of complex things going on as well. A Gaucho with a rose between his teeth and ready to dance the tango with the bull and bring that bad boy to heel with his Bolas. Lovely mouth and finish, with chocolate and rich coffee coming through. It was good to contrast the Rioja with the Zapata, and the five years in the bottle for the latter let this 2009 show off a great balance though with still enough heft to stand up to the beef. Still a bit of time left in this one, but it was showing nicely on the night. Match-wise, the Zapata probably edged it - the firmer tannins and darker fruit cut well through the meat. The temptress gave a sweet edge to the meat but ultimately she got swept aside by the rampaging Pamplona bull. Thankfully I was there to rescue her, and she swirled in my glass long into the night….

Flan de la Casa dessert

The dessert got wolfed down mostly because it was cooling, though the Creme Caramel in a combo of mango, grape and a swipe of sweet something across the plate worked well. It screamed for coffee. We made do with more pours of both the Rioja and Zapata. 

IWFS member Ajeet (right) with a look that says "My wife is going to kill me when she sees this..."

I wandered off to say hello to the next table and got suckered in to giving a half remembered rendition of "Speedy Gonzales" it being the only Mexican style song anyone could think of. Hadn't sung it for years so most of the lyrics were only half correct. Maybe. Pat Boone would not have been proud, though the boozy raucous joining in of everyone in the "Laaaa….  lala la lala lala laaaaa" chorus was actually quite awesome. I skewered the words to call for more wine in the "Hey Rosita" bit, but it went unanswered. Probably all gone by that time. The song seemed to put a natural end to the night - I guess I have some skill in clearing a room.

Marathon Man Dr Jag and Moon Ravelli

In sum, an excellent expression of Mexican cuisine well matched by some lovely Latin wines. My expectations were totally overwhelmed - I was expecting something reasonably good but not stunning and instead I got something that felt hugely authentic and was darned tasty. It didn't feel as contrived as I thought it might. Very homely feel about the rustic interior and the warm staff made it almost family. Would happily return to park with a beer and some Tostadas in front of a TV showing some sporting event. And definitely when the urge comes for Fajitas, Fresca is a no brainer.   

Vamonos y Fresca!! Muy Bien Gustario Mexicana!!

Fresca Restaurant 

Lot G-242A, Ground Floor
(beside the main entrance),
The Gardens City Mall,
Midvalley City 59200
Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. 

03-22012893

www.fresca.com.my

https://www.facebook.com/frescabar

The Menu

Canapés to Start

Tortilla Chip “topped with Guacamole & Pico de Gallo”

Pescado a la Ensenada

“Ensenada-style beer-battered fish in shooter glass”

Papaya verde tostadas “green papaya tostadas”

Faustino Cava NV

Ceviche

“Red snapper raw fish cured in lime juice

A refreshing appetiser commonly found across the coastlines of Mexico”

Catena Alta Chardonnay 2010

Sopa de Tortilla

“This traditional recipe captures the essence of Mexican cooking – Guajilo Chile flavoured broth, garnished with fresh avocado, Ancho Chile and golden tortilla strips

Faustino I Gran Reserva 2001

Cordero Estofado

“Braised lamb shank in a famous red Oaxacan ‘mole’ sauce served with Mexican rice that is the specialty of Chihuahua”

OR

Beef Tenderloin Fajitas

“Beef tenderloin in a sizzling plate on a bed of onion, mushroom & peppers.  

Served with warm tortillas and condiments of guacamole, pico de gallo & chipotle chile salsa”

Lealtanza Gaudi Collection Reserva Rioja 2005

Catena Zapata Nicolas Catena Zapata 2009

Flan de la Casa

Mexican Creme Caramel

The Wines

Faustino Cava NV

A sparkling wine made from a blend of Macabeo and Chardonnay. A pale, bright, straw-yellow colour with small enduring bubbles which form a crown. On the nose this cava is elegant with a wonderful yeast complexity. Hints of vanilla and lime and on the palate is lightly acidic and elegant, revealing fruit in the finish.

Catena Alta Chardonnay 2010

The 2010 Alta Catena Chardonnay includes just a touch of botrytis that Alejandro Vigil believes adds a little complexity. That is evident on the bouquet, which offers wild honey, jasmine, nectarine and crushed stone aromas that are well-defined. The palate has good weight on the entry, with subtle notes of orange zest, dried apricot, quince and shaved ginger. It builds in the mouth, delivering a very focused, intense finish that you could say, sits comfortably between Old World and New. (Wine Advocate 93/100)

Faustino I Gran Reserva 2001

Faustino I Gran Reserva, 2001 has been chosen as Decanter’s Number One Wine of the Year.From more than 3,200 wines recommended in Decanter over the past year, their tastings team has picked out not only the highest-scoring but also the best-value wines.

Restrained, mineral style with elegant tannins, youthful and fresh, feminine and complex. Deliciously decadent with extraordinary vitality in the palate and a long unique finish. A jewel at this price point!”(19.25 points)

Lealtanza Gaudi Artist Collection Reserva 2005

The 2005 Lealtanza Reserva Spanish Artist Collection (Gaudi in this vintage) is 100% Tempranillo sourced from 75+-year-old vines and aged for 18 months in new French oak. Purple/black in color, it proffers a complex perfume of lavender, incense, Asian spices, leather, black cherry, and blackberry. Full-bodied, dense, and mouth-filling, it is loaded with ripe fruit, notes of terroir and spice, and enough tannin to blossom for another 3-4 years. This lengthy effort will offer a drinking window extending from 2013 to 2025. (Wine Advocate 93+/100)

Catena Zapata Nicolas Catena Zapata 2009

It is pieced together from a mind-boggling 210 separate row micro-vinifications of multifarious lots and harvest times and is a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Malbec. It has a spellbinding bouquet that exudes minerality, as if crushed stones had been sprinkled into the black fruit. With continued aeration, there are scents of oyster shell and black olive. The palate is full-bodied, with immense structure and backbone. The acidity is beautifully judged with filigree tannins that render the finish so elegant and refined, with notes of blackberry, soy, black plum and that stony aftertaste. Magnificent. (Wine Advocate 95/100).

L'Heritage at Royale Chulan - not so good

13th January 2015

Scouting round for a venue for an upcoming IWFS function, Food Chair David hit on L'Heritage located in the Royale Chulan hotel off Jalan Conlay. This is a massive expanse of a hotel with a huge ballroom and opulent marble and big space everywhere. I had been to a function there with our acapella group a couple of years back and enjoyed a decent buffet at the coffee shop there, though there was no indication at the time that there were other restaurants elsewhere in the complex. Notwithstanding, L'Heritage appeared to be of good standing. Seems it was featured in the recent MIGF 2014 offering a decent looking and (according to the menu I received) award winning Western set meal for a fair price. David talked to them and they must have said the magic words "no corkage" so a trial dinner was fixed for Committee to sample.  

Table and ambience of L'Heritage

Parking was straightforward, though getting to the restaurant involved a stop at reception to ask how to get there. Once on the correct first floor, following signage proved a detour - had I ignored the direction signs I would have got to the place in five seconds. As it was I walked through the Malay, Chinese, and some other restaurant, all of which were empty. On reflection, seeing them all empty should have put me on alert that not all was well, but there you go - when you're on a mission to get somewhere you're not always open to these things. It was indeed, as the Kiwi remarked, like the Marie Celeste - empty and desolate and little evidence of life. Though a very pretty Marie Celeste it should be said - the room designated for our meal was most pleasant, reminiscent of a colonial deck with pristine chairs and tables. Table settings, wine service and glasses were excellent - the staff seemed to be good with people, though they did need a bit of wine guidance from David on occasion. Food service was also good - plates were cleared quickly and requests for more bread and water were met quickly and graciously. 

Oysters were a bit not good

The wines brought by the company (nine of us, though I brought an extra bottle of fizz) were superb. Three champagnes, one white, a Burgundy and three top end Bordeaux. I had brought a Connetable Talbot, the 2nd Wine from Chateau Talbot to try and pair with the beef. It was a bit second level in the vinous company so it got parked aside. It would eventually get drunk, though, as would the spare fizz. We are IWFS, these things are necessary.

Ultimately, though, it was all about the food and it was here that things fell quite flat. The Fin de Claire oysters were tiny and shrivelled and chewy and with a suspicion of age about them. The toppings were tastyish and well presented, but there was little to comment about them otherwise. Fail.

Seems the King Crab Royale and Atlantic Scampi were not available, so we got some greyish Crab on Mash potato with a rather large prawn whose homes of origin I did not manage to find out. Whilst the prawn was freshly acceptable and displaying good bite and chew, the crab and mash were a bit meh and snuzz. Individually each was not too bad, though the combo seemed to give an impression of stodgy. Seemed also to be a little over-salt on the potato. Fail.

Crab and Prawn - hmmm...

Drinks-wise, we were enjoying some lovely bubbles - starting with a delightfully light and fruity Thierry Grandin and giving way to a gracious 2004 Dom Perignon and a brawny 2002 Pol Roger Winston Churchill. I was half tempted to stand to attention and sing Rule Britannia while the Churchill got popped but the steely stern eye of the Governor from across the table quashed my eagerness. Winston was lovely and totally overpowered the Dom when supped side by side. Very masculine fizz. I'd had the Churchill at a Ribs dinner in November 2014, but tonight it was colder and the sense of frozen biscuit on the nose and yeasty bubbles in the cheeks was wonderful. Later on, though, the Dom showed a beautiful balance of bubbles and crisp crunchy verve. Lovely finesse in this one. Lady Astor's grace to the Winston Churchill wit. 

Roast Garlic Soup - tasty

Next out was the Roast Garlic soup which was the dish of the night - lovely texture and light crust which soaked up the broth a sweet and flakey treat. Could have supped this one all night, though the resulting Garlic Breath would make me vampire repellant for a year. Lenglui repellent also. Though Lenglui is not a vampire. Leastways not that I know of. Better stop this line of thinking…  the soup gets two thumbs up.

The Chapoutier Les Tanneurs Marsanne-Roussane blend was in the glass and was proving a delightful mouth of marzipan and lychee oriental fruits. Cool and mellow though with a lightness on the roof of the mouth. Tasty wine.

Which would have been belter with the Salmon if the Salmon had been a bit warmer. Poached and cold is not a good thing. And being paired with some Foie Gras was perhaps a bit adventurous and might have worked if the ingredients were totally fresh off the plane. As it was, the seeming slight age on the ingredients gave a somewhat ordinary result. The menu talked of mint, which might have zested the pairing, but I didn't get much mint in the mouth. The FG was wonderful on the bread with some butter, though. Ah, bread and butter and pate with a glass of wine and good friends around a table - the world comes into perfect focus. Bare pass for this dish.

Salmon and Foie Gras

The sorbet was decent enough, though perhaps a shade sugary in texture. 

And then came the start of greatness. A Vosne-Romanee 2004 had been brought and poured. Magnificent glass of wine. Breathing in cherry and perfumed air, roiling around the mouth like a soothing balm and coating the throat with that delicate film of delight that fires the senses into the poetic and exalted heights of the sublime. Darn, this was nice. A Brigit Bardot of a wine, starlet, full of life and body, a little voluptuous but chic and powerful. It was love at first sip. Well, maybe lust with shades of infatuation. O fantasy…

I had picked Beef and three of the Bordeaux had been poured to accompany. With the Vosne still in the glass, this was as close to vinous heaven as I have ever been. 

I quite liked the beef, though I might have liked it better if it had not been smothered in Bisto like gravy. It gave it that Heinz Oxtail soup feel, all meat stock and beefy oomph which is fine for stew but gets in the way of the steak. There was a slight herbal note which intrigued, though for me sauce should enhance rather than potentially hide. Can't remember the veg, though someone said the carrots were nice. Passable, though not in the league of Prime or Lafite.

The Black Angus with vegetables

And the three Bordeaux…  we had a 2008 Pontet-Canet, a 2003 Leoville Barton and a 1985 Domaine de Chevalier. Each showed definite Bordeaux character and quality, and varied only in finesse and silkiness in the finish, which one would expect given the softening tannins across the years. The Pontet-Canet was in good bloom, with the tannins coming into good season in the wine. The Leoville was tasty, with characteristic big fruit and mellowing tannins. The Chevalier was a charmer, all fine and glissando steely silk finish. Lovely, lovely wines all. But it was the Vosne that kept coming back and setting them all in context. Definitely a touch of greatness here. I have been darn lucky with some of the darlings I have tasted and this was a definite add to the list. Semi charmed kind of life? You have no idea…

The cheese was awful - looked and felt like supermarket offerings cut into slices and tasting of rubber. Complete fail. 

The final dessert was snuzz. Pretty ordinary ice cream and chocolate sponge of standard hotel quality. Not much to write about in glowing praise terms. Bare pass.

The Champagne and Marsanne

Both the 2009 Connetable Talbot and Vincent NV Cremant got cracked to end the night. The Talbot was most pleasant in a fruity way - Kiwi enjoyed it and said to give it three years to come into better balance. I have a couple left in the wine fridge, so three years it is. The Cremant was a most pleasant and boozy way to end the night - creamy crisp bubbles with a firm finish to cleanse the throat. Darn sight better than a sorbet. 

The Reds and my spare Cremant

So…  in sum, lovely venue, excellent service, a Brahma of a night for wine but pretty grim food. I think the problem with this place is two fold. First, there is clearly not enough business to maintain a top level foreign chef. These guys are like thoroughbred horses and footballers, they need to perform and cook and when they don't get the chance then their form and fire will start to fade and they'll be looking to new pastures. You have to let them run if you want them to stay; if you can't let them run because there's no one to run for, they'll die of boredom. I was later told that the Executive Chef was not in the kitchen for the evening and that it had been the number two in control. Hmmm….    

Second, it is a hotel restaurant and as a consequence blandness is often necessarily built into food preparation so as to not offend patrons. Couple this with the absence of the chef at a test dinner for a gourmet group and some of the food not appearing because it could not be sourced...  res ipsa loquitur. Would no way have won an award from me on this performance. 

The meal was not unfair in value terms and as said the service from the staff was excellent. At present, though, it is not a destination restaurant and it is unlikely to become one because presumably very few know it exists and one gets the feeling that no one really cares too much about raising the profile. It is a standard destination for official government functions and owned by the company that runs the Armed Forces pension fund so business revenue is fairly guaranteed. Give it a decent chef, though, and it might stand a chance. The setting is delightful. As it stands, though, there doesn't seem enough buzz about any of the food venues in the place, and the final whack of a RM24 car park bill underlined for me that a return in the near future is far from likely. Though in fairness I did get lucky with the car park - it wouldn't take my money and on trying to pay at reception the nice lady validated for me. Would be a great venue for visiting Michelin chefs, though. Now THAT might be an idea…

MIGF - AWARD WINNING MENU 2014

Full Menu RM 180+ per pax 

STARTER/ DÉMARREUR

3 huîtres de Français de Clair de style different 

americaine, polonaise et rheetaise

3 Different Styles Fin De Clair French Oysters

American, Polonaise, Rhetaise

FROM THE OCEAN / DE L’OCEAN 

Crabe royal a l ‘ivoire, scampi de l ‘ atlantique et

beurre de truffe

King Crab a l` ivoire, Atlantik Scampi and Truffle Butter

SOUP /SOUPE

Ail jeune grille  

Roasted Young Garlic

ENTRÉE

Foie gras traditionnel ‘au torchon’ served avec

Un saumon poche dans un consommé de menthes du Viêt Nam 

Traditional Foie Gras ‘au Torchon’ served with

Slow Poached Salmon in Vietnamese Mints Consume

SORBET

Baies sauvages au sirop de cerise

Wild Berries with Cherry Syrup

On Going / Sur le Depart

BEEF / BOEUF

Steak Black Angus au four, strudel aux pommes

et a la nappage aux morilles

Simply Baked Black Angus Steak, Lamb Apple Strudel

Morel and Demi Glaze

OR

Le cabillaud et thon fumé croustillante avec un beurre blanc au citron et gingembre, 

accompagné par du chou, noix de pin, Parmesan et pommes bouillies au beurre

Crispy Fresh Cod and Smoked Tuna with Lemon – Ginger Sauce, 

accompanied by Cabbage, Pine Nuts and Boiled Buttered Potatoes   

CHEESE/FROMAGE

Plateau de fromage française assortise

Assorted French Cheese 

DESERT / DÉSERT

Gâteau Opéra avec ragoût des baies

Opera cake with berry stew

CAFÉ / TEA

Coffee /Tea

PETITS FOURS

Wines

Champagne Thierry Grandin NV

2002 Pol Roger Sir Winston Churchill

2004 Dom Perignon

2009 M Chapoutier Les Tanneurs Saint-Peray Marsanne

2004 Vosne-Romanee Domaine Confuron-Cotetidot

2008 Chateau Pontet-Canet Pauillac

2003 Chateau Leoville Barton

1985 Domaine De Chevalier Graves

Vincent Cremant de Bourgogne NV

2009 Connetable Talbot