IWFS Kuala Lumpur Visit to Champagne, Burgundy and Alsace September 2016 - Day Five

Wednesday, 28th September 2016

1. Drive to Alsace
2. Lunch at Taverne Alsacienne
3. Tasting at Domaine Weinbach
4. Dinner at L'Auberge De L'Ill

Woke up to a beautiful bright and blazing morning in Beaune. Little bit of a restless one, but at least the orchestra had become more pastoral than the 1812 overture-like cannons of the previous nights. Lazed about in the bed dozing and catching up on lost sleep time. Very pleasant. Someone once said that the key to longer life is to sleep in and let the body recharge. Definitely got a believer in that one here.

Seems the original plan was to leave early for a leisurely drive to get to our lunch date in Colmar around 1pm. In this, Dear Leader presumably got persuaded by the earnest entreaties of those needing to indulge the shopping instinct to delay so as to give some time in town to sate the cravings. So it was that we lounged and lazed in the room with our instant coffee and gently packed before heading down to the usual breakfast. At this time in the trip I had not yet learned to refuse the orange juice and wolfed down two of the deliciously refreshing and freshly squeezed ahead of the cappuccino and cheese and ham baguette. The Ibis Styles breakfast is solid and filling - bit basic in offerings, but no complaints in quality terms.  And OJ is so good for kick-sparking the system into some level of alertness. It even occasionally allows me to engage in some semblance of breakfast conversation which is generally quite abnormal for me - the neurons don't quite fire as well when the brain is muzzy and bleuggh after a previous evening's skinful (which seems to be pretty much most of the time).

There was lots of excited chatter as we got on to the bus, with people comparing their purchases and prices and the winners in bargaining terms being loudly lauded. Very fast check out (though we had to fill out some residence form for the local gendarmerie which consumed an observedly five pointless minutes) and roll the cases across the road to a pretty sullen Napoleon for loading on the bus. I guess some people just can't see the sunshine and celebrate another day of life. It truly was a glorious morning. 10.30 saw us saying farewell to Ibis, though not before (I think) Bachan had to run back into the hotel to retrieve some booty. Or go for a pee. A three hour drive lay ahead of us, so we settled into the seats and dozed or whatsapped. Lenglui slept most of the way as normal - amazing that she can just zap out on anything that moves. I stare out of the window at the passing landscape, which also can be quite relaxing. But sleep on a bus or train totally eludes me.

Side note - Dear Leader had splurged for a mobile Broadband package whereby we all could log on to his mini Hub thingy and remain in contact with the world to check and see whether it still loved us. Only problem seemed to be that it could not handle all the love at any one time and was a bit slow in connecting a lot of the time. Not to worry - the world would hopefully still be there when it did. 

An hour into the ride I began wishing I had followed Bachan to the Ibis toilet for that last go before the off. That freaking OJ. My entire second hour on the bus was focused on restraining the need for relief. Which thankfully came sooner as a result (I guess) of OJ's effect on everyone else. Napoleon pulled into a large-ish petrol station cum restaurant shop and everyone ran to the restrooms. Ahhh....   Total exquisite bliss. Lesson - no more OJ ahead of a bus ride.

I picked up some extra bottled water at the station and a few of the pilgrims bought snacks to share on the bus for the last hop into Alsace. The landscape had been slowly changing from pretty flat to slightly rolling and the sight of vines always heralds that we are getting close to where we need to be. 

The Alsace region is pretty, not unlike Beaune but a bit more lush green and higher slopes and peaks dotted with the occasional fortress. We were coming to it in blazing sunshine and blue cloudless skies - about as picture perfect as you could get. The Autoroute gave way to smaller roads, one of which brought us through impossibly pretty flower festooned houses and restaurants to the town of Ingersheim and our lunch at La Taverne Alsacienne. Dear Leader had billed it as "leaning towards seafood dishes (and) with an immaculate wine list" thanks to the owner being a judge at Decanter World awards. 

Something to study whilst, er....   

Notwithstanding our arriving a shade past the lunch hour closing time, we got sat at two tables with a separate one on which to park the bottles and glasses. The Tavern is a very pretty place, lots of paintings, and quite cool in the shade - most pleasant indeed. The bathroom was downstairs and the ledge going down was decorated with high-end bottles of Bordeaux, Burgundy and Alsace. As was the boy's room itself. All empty. Of course. 

I did not make any notes on lunch, though I remember it as bright and easy breezy and some lovely wines to pair with the food. The aim was for a light lunch ahead of our upcoming 3 star dinner that evening. But I have learnt that "light" is a term of degree and relativity, and that my concept of light does not seem to align with that of either the Alsace or the IWFS. There is nothing "light" about IWFS lunches.  The photos show an egg custard soup with bread to start, followed by a large salmon terrine salad and a huge helping of some fish in white sauce with potato and asparagus. I seem to remember big hunks of bread and lovely butter. There may have been dessert but I have no memory or record. As said, so much for light. I had to get up and take a walk outside to ease the bloat and take some snaps of the Taverne. Phooo…..   Wines were 2012 Domaine Zind Humbrecht Rotenberg Pinot Gris, 2013 Albert Boxler Grand Cru Sommerberg Riesling, and a 2013 Albert Mann Les Saintes Claires Pinot Noir. All wonderfully textured and full of character and perfect foils for the hearty Alsacienne food on the table. I seem to remember enjoying the Pinot Gris very much - light crisp honey, bit of smoke and a hit of longan fruit. I was also keen to try the Albert Mann since my mate Julian in Singapore is due to bring it in there. It didn't seem to stun - pleasant enough, but couldn't quite find the heart of the thing on this occasion. Will try to blag a bottle when next I see him. He is my good friend. Yes.

Interior of Restaurant Taverne Alsacienne

Salmon Terrine

Cod, potato, asparagus, parsley sauce. This is a light lunch. Yes. 

Lunchtime wines

Restaurant Taverne Alsacienne

Restaurant Taverne Alsacienne

99, rue de la République

68040 Ingersheim, France

Tel +3 (03) 89 27 08 41

tavernealsacienne68@orange.fr

www.tavernealsacienne-familleguggenbuhl.com

Closed Sunday to Thursday evenings, closed all day Monday

Domaine Weinbach frontage against the Schlossberg Hill

Lunch ended about 3.30pm, and notwithstanding our lateness we decided to follow the plan and make a visit to Domaine Weinbach. Following a few more squeezingly tight left and right turns, we came to the gate and driveway into the place. It was very narrow, so Napoleon dropped us just outside the gate rather than going in. No explanation forthcoming, though clearly he could not have got out "wizzout beeg scratching of my boos, madame." At least that is what he might have said had he opened his mouth. I guess he would sit and wait and talk to his handphone to his heart's content. At least his phone spoke French.

Pliss, do not eat ze grapes madame... zey maight
maike you make ze noize laike ze trombone...

The Domaine Weinbach is a large property lying in the shadow of the Schlossberg Mountain. It was founded by the Capucin monks in 1612 and so named because of the small stream (wine brook) running through the estate. Located just outside Kayserberg, the main property is situated within the walls of the original 9th Century monastic vineyard (the 5 hectare Clos du Capucins) with which title all the wines of the estate are named. In total Domaine Weinbach owns 26 hectares of vineyards in the Kaysersberg valley in the Haut-Rhin of Alsace at between 200 to 400 metres above sea level.  Our guide pointed pretty much all around and said these were his grapes. Wow. One of the Pilgrims wondered to me whether the place was for sale. I said "Of course M'sieur - ten million Euro, but seeing as you are Malaysian... I sell to you for fifteen."
"Deal." he said. "Will you accept 1MDB Bonds?" I said I would check with the owner. Smartass.

Some of these hectares are on the slopes of the Schlossberg hill (one of the oldest recorded vineyard sites in Alsace) whose granite and sand soils make it perfect for Riesling. Grapes from the upper slopes go to make the Cuvée Sainte-Catherine while the middle slope goes to make Grand Cru (which is also called Sainte-Catherine - bloody French). Gewurtztraminer comes from a small plot on the Mambourg of Sigolsheim whilst their pinot gris comes from somewhere called the Altenbourg site. 

Domaine Weinbach

Domaine Weinbach wines are "heady, exuberant and full-bodied yet also racy, whistle-clean and always achingly beautiful and refined. Traditionally the style has often veered towards the sweet but under Laurence's guidance rieslings tended more to dryness. Her uncanny precision is also felt in the estate's ethereal muscat, sumptuous pinot gris and luscious, sensuous gewurztraminers." http://www.thewinesociety.com/grower-profile-domaine-weinbach

The winery came to the Faller family in 1898 (Theo and Colette) and after Theo passed in 1979 it was run by Mme Colette and daughters Catherine and Laurence. Sadly, Laurence suddenly passed in 2014 at age 47 and Mme Colette in 2015 aged 85. It is now run by Catherine with sons Theo and Eddy with wines made by Ghislain Berthiot. The estate is certified biodynamic and grapes are grown organically and hand picked for passive ageing in oak.  

Additional note from Julian at Julian's Eating who left a very useful comment - "the Cuvee Ste Catherine from the upper slopes of the Schlossberg has now been renamed Cuvee Colette, so you have GC Schlossberg from the lower, Colette from the higher, and Schlossberg GC Ste Catherine from the middle. But they are all superb without exception, regardless of name." 

The new owners of the Domaine after I had sold it to them. They are very happy.

We got taken on a very brief tour and got taken straight to the booze. Dear Leader has a great gift in communicating our time constraints without incurring the disdain of the owners. We started with the ordinary and quickly moved on to the extraordinary. Some wonderful expressions of Riesling and Pinot Gris (which we bought) and the sweeties were delightful. Lots of spitting but lots of swallow too - sometimes the wine is just too good to spit. Actually, better make that most times…  More so on this occasion, the wines were stellar. We fell for the Pinot Gris and bought two for home. We learned that Alsace is blessed with magnificent climat and drainage. It sits in the rainshadow of the Vosges Mountains and tracks the Rhine for its eastern waterway. The land was truly beautiful, easy meandering slopes leading up a mountainside covered with vines and dotted with properties. Very Sound Of Music. someone should make a film - The Sound of Boozing. Yes. 

Tasting the Weinbach wines

Round One...

...and Round Two. Total yum wines.

Ze waine maike me want to dance wiz ze flowers. Oui.

Domaine Weinbach

Colette, Catherine et Laurence Faller

Clos des Capucins

F 68240 Kayserberg

Tel 33 (0)3 89 47 13 21

contact@domaineweinbach.com

With our purchases duly made and bubble wrapped we were all back on the bus to go to our hotel in Colmar for a quick check in, shower and change and then back on the bus to dinner. Well, that was the plan. However, when we got to the hotel the nice lady at the desk informed Dear Leader that we were not due at the Columbier Hotel until the following night. Bugger. But they also said that they would help in locating us somewhere to stay though naturally this would take some time. Which was nice of them. We had a dilemma - wait for the hotel or go straight to dinner? It was quickly and communally seen that to wait would mean a large delay in getting to our highlight dinner, so without anyone arguing we got Napoleon to help reload all the bags back on the bus and went straight to the Auberge de L'Ill for our 3 star dinner. Again, not a word from Napoleon, though I think I might have got a grunt from him as I said a "Merci" for his help. Then again, it might have been his phone. Or something else. Oui.

What was actually a standout memory was that everyone just took this blip in their stride - not one voice of whinge did I hear from anyone. It was as if everyone just gave a Gallic shrug and said "C'est la guerre" - one of those things that happens, you just had to roll with it. Something would get done and all would be well so best to just keep drinking the champagne and let whatever happen happen. Que Sera Sera. Absolutely. Top quality character shown by all.

Auberge de L'Ill

So it was that, somewhat scaggy and unwashed and way way underdressed, we pitched up at the Michelin 3 Star Auberge De L'Ill. The staff welcomed us graciously and moved us through to the verandahs and the cold booze that was waiting for us. Here we spent 30 wonderful minutes chilling out in the Auberge gardens with glasses of well cooled Muscat in the nippy evening sunset air. The gardens and property were absolutely idyllic, all trees and bushes and river and sun setting over it all. Table and seating areas were dotted all around and other guests of the Inn were equally enjoying the vibe. Completely wiped away the stress of the loading/unloading. I figured the worst that could happen was we could camp out in the Auberge gardens. Or all of us book a room at the Auberge and crash for the night. Totally relaxing in the autumn evening air. Memory for a lifetime. 

Auberge de L'Ill gardens

I had circulated foodie friend Julian's report (http://julianteoh.blogspot.my/2016/06/review-of-auberge-de-lill-illhauesern.html) on the Auberge in advance to the pilgrims, and I think some of them had indeed read it. They seemed quite knowledgeable about the restaurant and the food and stars. The brochure tells that the Haeberlin family have been operating an eaterie in Illhaeusern for 150 years - "they work the land, cook with artistry and serve with their heart" and this is the Haeberlin spirit now being perpetuated by the present generation of Marc and Danielle. It has held its 3 Michelin stars since 1976, which Dear Leader advised is only bettered by the Paul Bocuse in Lyon. 

As good as it gets - chilling at Auberge de L'Ill

We got scuttled into our room (two tables, twelve and ten seats) and relaxed in to finish off the remains of the light and charmingly more-ish Muscat. Despite its heritage, the place felt quite modern, with new artistic touches around the walls. Lots of earth tones (burgundy and beige) with modern touches of lighting and soft furnishing. And lots of wood panel and branches as decorations, which gave a cosy log cabin in the forest feel. We sat and perused the menu, which had been printed on a charming Haeberlin watercolour card - and all in French. Mais naturellement madame. Where's that Google Translate again?

Sunset in the gardens of Auberge de L'Ill

One of the first things noticed was the wonderful standard and choreography of the service. Waters and wines got served in timely and decanted fashion, yet still with enough time and attention by staff to give answers to the occasional questions raised. Most excellent. Also got a fresh serviette served on a warm plate on return from the bathroom which was a most pleasant touch.

Wine One was a 2010 Grand Cru Alsatian Riesling by Rene Mure in Vorbourg which was all crisp, fresh and crunchy apple and racy acidity which got a nice salt hit from the bread. Full in body, bit of a tartish finish, but enough sweet in the wine to give balance. Nicely elegant, though not so that it demanded too much of the attention. Hint of oil with a medium to firm body.

Auberge de L'Ill table setting and menu

The bread is superb, as is the butter. Got fresh, got gluten, got creamy salt. Yum. Always a good sign.

Our amuse bouche was a combo of fish and what felt like a fried onion ring, all in a brilliant smooth and creamy mushroom broth which deftly checked the acidity in the Mure. Very nice mouthfeel on this wine. 

Amuse Bouche

Dish one was Spice Crusted Red Tuna Tartare (I think) from which I seemed to get a lot of immediate salt. I liked the low impact wasabi which contrasted well with the yuzu style salty lemon. Hit of mustard cress gave a lively jolt on the tongue. Also some (what felt like) crunchy pig fat croutons gave a good meaty taste and useful texture, and making for a good tuna melt in the mouthful chew. It seemed to bring out a pear note in the wine, which was pleasant.

Spice Crusted Red Tuna

Wine Two was also a Riesling, and from the same producer as one that we'd had earlier at lunch though one year earlier in vintage. It was brilliant with the bread and butter which disintegrated the wine's light acidity and let some sleek acacia honey of this cheeky cheek pincher to burst through. Though there seemed to be a tending toward the sucky side of things as it slid across the back of the tongue to a medium large finish.

Non, M'sieur, yooo cannot do ze Mossie in mai place.
Ai weel spank you bigtime. Oui.

It was being paired with the Saint Pierre fish, which apparently is the French equivalent of a John Dory. A fillet of St Peter's best had been laid across an island of beans and chopped vegetables in a light bistro style broth and topped with what reminded of a curry puff we can get from the little Malay lady in next door's hawker stall in KL but filled with (I think) Ricotta mushroom rather than sardine. Okay. The fish was lightly seared and made for an excellent match with the beans and celeriac, all of which got eased along nicely by the brown umami-ish broth. Which got me thinking that Brown for me is not only a colour - it is also a taste, reminiscent of Bistro style salt and fat gravy. And this broth tasted brown. Ish. Well, light brown. Kind of. Hmmm....  finding the right word can be a pain.

It made for a brilliant contrast of heat and sweet when paired with the wine. This was a great tumble of textures - soft ricotta, crunchy celeriac, sweet but sour ginger sauce. And all of these cutting the Riesling's acidity to release honey and toffee notes. I think I got a hit of garlic acetic somewhere in the broth which got a tad in the way of the wine. Best match was the Ricotta mushroom curry puff - again the mushroom eased the slight tartness to give the wine some good width and roundness. Delightful drinking. 

Fish with Mushroom Risotto, er, Curry Puff

Dish Three was an amazing lobster, all fresh and sweet and tender. Addition of (I think) barley gave the bisque a light bite texture, whilst the bisque itself was amazing. Chef had also added some lightly fried sage (I think) which was genius - fantastic taste and texture.

The Lobster in creamy bisque

Wine Three was the Pinot Gris which initially came out a bit cat pee on the nose and Turkish Delight in the mouth. Worked well with the food, though, with the Turkish giving way to deep rich raisins. I seemed to get an almost sherry wood barrel note, like the raisins had been infused with oak soaked in sherry. Odd, but nice. I think perhaps there was some milk or light cream in the sauce which helped to tame the wine's mildly frisky acidity and let its deep rich and wonderfully lovely raisins to come through. Naturally, the bisque was amazing with the bread and butter. Oily, sweet, salt and a mild spicy fire getting soaked up by the crusty gluten. Suck this all night. Belter.

Decanting the reds

Our wine servers were uncorking the reds and decanting the bottles over a candle so as to check when the sediment was due to come out and stop the pour. This is where the Mossie alert kicks in, as there can often be at least a decent glassful left in the bottle. Prudence normally demands such holy water should not suffer the fate of the sink hole without first checking it in a nearby glass. Yes indeed - The Moss would be gravely miffed by such a dereliction and I would incur the righteous wrath of the enraged. A later inspection showed indeed at least half a measure in the bottles. However, an abnormal discretion kicked in and I chickened out of chugging the remains. I think it was the gravitas of the occasion, the imposing history of the Auberge and the stern gaze of the Sommelier fazed me into meek submission and deference. One had to ask - what would the Governor do, sat there as he was at the table? Not sure, but he would definitely not grab the bottle and swig from it. Better to incur the mild admonition of the Moss rather than the intimidating  silence of the Governor or the incandescant rage of an almighty French Maitre D' on his own turf. 

The Pinot decanters were delightful, shaped like ducks with pewter style beaks and belts and other ornamentation. The staff were all generous in their pours and again we all felt well wine sated by the end of the night. 

The Duck Decanter. Hugely tempted to souvenir one. Took the photo instead.

The lamb was a well tasty piece of meat, full of tender feel and texture with just enough fibre to work the salivatory glands. Two full chops in the rack and done to perfection. The jus was very bistro, leaning toward the sweet in its reduction, whilst the potato and fennel was amazing - tending texturally toward the vegetal but not to any extent underdone.

The most excellent Lamb and crunchy Potato and Fennel

On first glug, the Faiveley was massively tannic and felt way too young. We had to be reminded that this was a 2002 - amazing power in this boy. 

Whilst lamb's traditional wine match is a Cabernet, it worked wonderfully well with the Faiveley, slashing the tannins into something less fierce and giving it a classy New Zealand kind of Pinot feel, all frisk and clean power. Though the terroir maintained its pedigree as a Burg (cue for discussion as to why a NZ Pinot will never be Burgundian…). Big wine. 

I guess we had the Montus as a palate cleanser and match with the cheeses though I have no note or photo of either.  

La "Peche Haeberlin"

There were to be four servings of dessert style dishes. First out were a selection of macaroon and biscuit style sugary carbo bites which charmed the tongue but killed the wine. Standout was what my notes called an "Excellent French biscuit wafer thingy" which in hindsight was the toffee tuile. Was like the Brandy Snap we get at Christmas. As ever, my notes on dessert are pretty non existent, though there is one noting a "sour sweet cold shock with ice cream and apricots and other sharp fruits" (presumably the "Peche Haeberlin"). Equally for the Tart where the combination of peach, caramel, crispy crunchy wafer plus apricot mousse made for a great belly busting finale. Julian was right - the Alsaciennes clearly love to end with a big bellybusting dessert bang. Phooo….

Peach Tart

Dear Leader had gone with a 1989 Hugel VT Gewurtz to finish the evening ahead of our scheduled visit there the following day. O delightful - lots of sweet honey, caramel and toffee apples in the mouth. I found it a bit unctuous and syrupy, and leaving a bit of clag on the throat, but in the presence of greatness we should just shut up and sip. Yes. Om.

Lots of chocolate in the Minardises. So good. Kills the wine, though... did we have coffee? Can't remember...

President David gave a speech and said it had been a perfect night. Well and yes for the wines, service and ambience. And the aperitifs in the garden with the setting sun was truly magical and sublime. But the food…   overall, I was not as stunned as I thought I might be; nor as I have been at other places. Without the notes and photos I would not really remember much about the dishes. But the service and room were excellent, and the wine and the duck like decanters were delightful. To be frank, it all felt like a blur, and as my notes got increasingly scrawly to the point of massive unintelligible much of the evening is now fading into the mists. Maybe focusing too much on the 3 Star "event" and the felt need to record it rather than just enjoying the food and company and the place? Perhaps. Also maybe a bit tired from all the bus riding and the ongoing marathon of eating and drinking. I recall one of the Pilgrims asking why did I not dictate my thoughts into the phone and my response was that I felt to do so was a bit rude. To which the rejoinder was "well, isn't making notes at the table also rude?" To which my response was "well, not as…" But also the Pilgrim was not wrong - rude is rude, though sometimes maybe a matter of degree and needs must when posterity is at the stake. The readable notes do bring back some of the magic of the night that I am happy to translate for me and the world. But I do feel that I did miss something somewhere along the Auberge de L'Ill way…

Wines for the night. Wheeeeee!

So overall I give it a good to very good, but not food that I think I will remember years down the line. Hopefully one day down that line I can give it another try in a less intense context than an IWFS Pilgrimage. Maybe a Julian Alsace Pilgrimage. See how. 

We all crawled back on the bus for Colmar where it was shared that the Columbier had found two hotels to house us all for the night. Eight pilgrims in one hotel and the rest in The Mercure, I think it was, though it might have been an Ibis. Can't remember if Napoleon helped unload the bags, was too tired to think much beyond get checked in and into the room. Which we speedily did. So it was that at midnight we stumbled up to the rooms for a quick shower and crawled straight into bed. A good memorable day ended with a good solid sleep. Drunken dreams. No trombones. 

Auberge de L'Ill Petits Fours

L'Auberge de l'Ill

2, rue de Collonges au Mont d'Or

68970 Illerhaeusern, France

Tel +33 3 89 71 89 00

aubergedelill@aubergedelill.com

www.auberge-de-l-ill.com

Closed Monday and Tuesday, closed for the month of February

Menu Auberge de l'Ill Illhaeusern

La Longe de Thon Rouge pane aux Epices,

Mousseline de chou-fleur au wasabi et get de citron

La Filet de St Pierre Poele, vierge de legumes et fritot a la ricotta

Le Bouillon de Homard Estival

Le Carre d'Agneau Roti accompagne d'un Croustillant de Pommes Boulangeres au Fenouil Safrane

Les Fromages

la "Peche Haeberlin"

La Tarte au Cotron et Mirabelles d'Alsace Pochees

Creme Citronelle, Petits Carres de Florentin

Glace au Lait de Brebis et Miel

Petits Fours, Mignardises et Chocolats

Wines

Muscat Josmeyer 2014

Riesling Rene Mure Alsace Grand Cru Vorbourg 2010

Riesling Boxler Alsace Grand Cru Sommerberg 2012

Pinot Gris Zind Humbrecht Alsace Grand Cru Rangen 1997

Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru Faiveley 2002

Madiran Cuvee Prestige Montus 1998

Gewurtztraminer Vendange Tardives Hugel 1989

The aperitif Josmeyer Muscat - surprisingly delightful

IWFS KL President Dinner 2016 at Sage - most excellent!

December 3rd 2016

The President's Dinner – the Society’s black tie gala dinner and the Premiere event of our IWFS Kuala Lumpur Calendar – was once again being held at Sage Restaurant on Saturday, 3rd December. It had been decided to bring it forward this year to avoid a clash with an overseas IWFS event being staged the following weekend. And to have deferred the dinner to the following week would have impinged too much on the Yuletide Holidays. So forward it had to come.

Sage ambiance in natural light

There was also much discussion as to whether to hold the dinner at a new venue. It was ultimately decided to remain with Sage for this year – Committee felt Chef Daniel’s creations remain at the forefront of excellent cuisine in Kuala Lumpur and both the food and wine service continue to be the standard for others to attain. And it is nice to go back there at least once a year and get all dolled up in best bibs and tuckers and frocks. Like going to revisit an old friend. Which was made more attractive by the anonymous donations to the dinner of 6 bottles of Bollinger and a case of 2001 Chateau Pichon-Lalande to be supped with the dinner. This also apparently helped in keeping the dinner price at the same RM550 whilst allowing the Society to maintain the standard of wines expected of an IWFS Dinner and keeping costs sufficiently attractive for the Rakyat to sign up. 

It had also been decided that some musical entertainment would help in establishing an elegant tone for the evening. Which some might take to infer that inelegant tones had been established at previous IWFS beanos which is far from the case. As a result, a string quartet had been engaged to perform during the dinner and sponsored by Mrs President Teh Pitt Lee who was showered with thanks all through the evening.

Table setting in natural light

One downside of bringing the President Dinner forward was that many of the big hitters at the charity wines auction would not be in attendance. Seems they were all together overseas and only returning on the 4th. Equally, it had been voiced that given the present state of the economy then perhaps expecting similar auction proceeds as in previous years might be misplaced. Didn't stop the bottle donations from the members though - got a healthy 40 lots for the night which was most generous. The charities were once again the Special Children's Society of Ampang (SCSA) and Society for the Severely Mentally Handicapped, Selangor and Federal Territory (SSMH). Both of these organisations carry out tremendous work in enabling those less able than most to gain degrees of independence that would otherwise remain beyond wild dreams. Worth to check out their websites to see the work they do - www.scsoa.org.my       www.ssmh.org.my

As a Committee member who got invited to some of their lunches, I had seen first-hand the work that is carried out and the severe disabilities the kids (and their parents) at these places look to cope with. The staff and volunteers are phenomenal people who make a point to assure the members of their grateful appreciation for the support that the IWFS KL affords them.

The Pichon, Smith Haut Lafitte and the Volnay. Yum.

At last year's dinner, the remarkable generosity of our members by way of cash and wine auction bids meant that IWFS Kuala Lumpur raised RM190,000 in one single night. Anecdotally, I hear that the IWFS is the envy of the fund raising community - they marvel at the fact that we can raise so much with comparatively little effort. We had been exhorted by President David in the Dinner Notice to "please dig deep into the pocket and raid the wine fridge or cellar with reckless abandon. The funds raised go to exceedingly worthy destinations. The bar has been raised. Let us seek to excel." 

As I had been landed with being one of the auctioneers and also in charge of organising the seating, I decided to get there early just to check all was on schedule. Thankfully it was - as Maitre' D had earlier promised in email exchanges, the menus had been printed with attendees names and placed according to my layout. Perfect. I was able to scuttle off to the loo to climb into the monkey suit in peace. 

Chef final checking whilst President makes a speech 

Committee Members started arriving in quick succession, each sorting out their own responsibilities. Arranging the auction booze on the tables proved a bit time consuming - there was a need to make sure they were all placed in order so as to avoid an incorrect bottle being knocked down. Other members and squeezes started pitching up, and corks popped on schedule at 7.20pm with all the six donated Bollys getting quaffed within ten minutes. I think they were good - they barely touched the sides of the collective throat. It was then on to the Jacquessons which proved delightful. All attendees so far had proven wonderfully compliant with the dress code of Black Tie and Elegant Dress, though Doctor Willie showed up not wearing the Medallion - we withheld his glass of bubbles until he had rectified the transgression. The fizz went fantastically well with the firm and amazingly textured Ocean Trout canapes. The Duck was equally good, though it paled a bit in the shadow of the Trout. In fairness, Beluga Caviar would have paled - the Trout was that good. 

I find that there is something… affirming and pleasant in seeing everyone decked out and resplendent in their finery. Dare I say the word "class" but it does come close. Looking classy and being a member of a group that gets the privilege to do so and go to these kind of parties is something I feel we should never take for granted. "We are truly privileged," I said to Mizz Kit as we walked from the fizz into the room. She agreed. 

And before anyone points the finger and says "You were there in company other than Lenglui??!??" - yes, no Lenglui on the night. She had been called to a family gathering in Singoland and was missing the fun. The delightful Mizz Kit was my carriage for the night, with her godson doing a bit of part time private driving for a few shekels. No need to worry about staying in reasonable shape for driving for a welcome change. 

The Kiwi and Squeeze. Make that Doctor Squeeze...

We all started to get seated, but not before one slight wrinkle caused by someone who had sought to change the seating by shifting the named menus around without consulting me. I snapped at the suspected individuals concerned that to have attempted to do so was extremely bad form, completely unacceptable and totally unbecoming of the behaviour to be expected of IWFS KL Members. The member concerned sought to blame his/her guest for making the attempted seat change. Hmmm. I stormed off after replacing the menus in their correct places. Pissed me right off - had to go for an extra glass of fizz to ease down. Some people have no respect for these things, eh? Thankfully all this got resolved before anyone had actually sat down - might have been fireworks otherwise. 

President David got up and gave what felt like a somewhat lengthy but ultimately very good welcome speech (well, he is a Rotarian - my experience is they will get up and make a speech at the slightest prompting) and then we were off. I made few to no notes of the dishes or wines, preferring to just sit back and enjoy the whole experience. Though the first course Carpaccio of Buri fish was a knockout. Those of us who saved some of the fizz could sip it with the dollop of Avruga Caviar parked on the plate. Wicked dish. I found the accompanying Remondo clean and lean and in great balance though perhaps a shade puny and lacking sufficient oomph in looking to face down the fish. The Risotto and Foie Gras in Port Wine Sauce was another rich and sinful experience, made all the more so with the chunks of bread and butter on which the Foie Gras got spread and sucked. O my Lord…  The Volnay was an excellent choice, all sweet apples and steel minerality. Lovely wine. 

Carpaccio of Buri Fish

As dinner began, the string quartet had begun playing. During soundcheck, I had thought them a tad loud and wondered if they would drown the room. It proved not - their tunes were loud enough to be heard but not so that they overwhelmed conversation. Thoughtful selection of music too - classics, musicals, operettas - very tasteful and indeed setting an elegant tone. 

The Kiwi and I did our first stint of auctioning and seemed to get a fair response bid-wise before getting back to the table for the Lamb. Two cutlets together which produced a startlingly good mouthful of the most tender juicy meat. The mouth is salivating at the memory of it - succulent, perfect texture, perfectly cooked. It was a no brainer going with the Pichon Lalande which was spot on form. Though the wine of the night was the 2005 Smith Haut Lafitte - full, velvet, power, finish and totally delectable with the lamb. Great pairing. 

The brilliant and tasty Rack of Lamb

The second auction session was a bit more intense, with some of the serious bottles coming under the hammer (or knuckles in my case - I was rapping the lectern with them when the lot got knocked down for effect). It has also become tradition to sing "Happy Birthday" to the winning bidder, this having been initiated by the Dato Gang at previous auctions. It breaks ice and gives the recorders time to accurately note who actually made the bid and get their details. 

Dessert

The last lot got knocked down and the winners of a silent auction got announced and it was back to the table for dessert and the delightful Kracher which lived up to its name - crunchy fruit and slippery honey brilliantly balanced and sipping like a drop of nectar from Dionysus himself. 

President David and Chef Daniel

President David had also decided to honour Chef K K Chong a.k.a. Daniel with a Certificate for his continuing application to turning out amazing dishes for us punters. Having spent years learning from Chef Takashi Kimura at both the Cilantro and the Sage restaurants, Chef Daniel took the helm of the Sage kitchen when completion of Cilantro renovations necessitated Chef Kimura's return. Over our time and association with Sage, Chef Daniel has shown himself hugely dedicated to both the preparation and presentation of food, and consistently delivers some of the finest Japanese French fusion cuisine in the region. He has said: "Food is like a work of art. The plate is my canvas. The ingredients are my paint. The customers are my critique." Chef did seem a shade overwhelmed by the three cheers he received after his thank you speech. Good for him - he is driven by the search for excellence and the stretch of his creativity to find it. He deserves every accolade available. 

Singing up a storm!

There seemed to be a late flurry of activity as people sought to add donations (prompting President to go to the microphone to announce them) with the result that the total raised was not far off previous years efforts. Which is actually darn well done and a big hearty thank you to everyone who donated. Serious props and kudos to all - the charities will be well pleased. 

And that was it. Most left in search of carriages or Uber whilst the usual diehards cracked open whatever was left - some fizz and dessert as memory serves - and sang up some songs. Sadly all the red had gone though there were swathes of both the Pichon and the SHL left in glasses on the table. I fail to understand how people can not drink such magnificent wines as these and at this time of the night the little wine devil inside takes over and demands that it be consumed. It just feels totally sacrilegious to leave something that the winemaker has poured his or her soul into creating to the ignominious fate of the kitchen sink. Consequently, a couple of the SHLs got poured into a glass which became my one for the road. And a wonderful one it was too. That little wine devil can make shame take a back seat when it comes to booze that is this good. 

This will probably be the last post before Christmas, so all my best wishes and compliments of the Festive Season to everyone and a hope that 2017 will be a happy, healthy and safe one for you and your loved ones. With lots of great food, wine and great times with great friends. Cheers!

Cheers!!

THE MENU

Note – wines are added in the food and sauce to enhance the flavour of the dish

Canapés

Glazed Duck Breast with Daikon, Confit Ocean Trout with Shiokombu

Bollinger Champagne NV

Jacquesson 737 NV Bollinger Brut Reserve Champagne NV

First Course

Carpaccio of Buri Fish with Avruga Caviar and Wasabi Kotsuka

Placet Palacios Remondo 2012

Second Course

Buckwheat Risotto with Hokkaido Scallop, Foie Gras and Port Wine Sauce

Domaine Comte Lafon Santenots-du-Milieu, Volnay 1er Cru 2011

Palate Cleanser

Fresh Mango Granité with Cointreau Cream

Main Course

Fish – Pan Roasted Tai Fish with Tsubugai and Tonburi Beurre Blanc

Alternatively

Lamb - Slow Cooked Almond Crusted Hillside Lamb Rack with Mustard Sauce

Alternatively

Beef – Black Angus Beef Striploin with Spanish Anchovies Butter and Red Wine Sauce

Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte 2005 

Chateau Pichon-Lalande 2001

Dessert

Adzuki Nougat Glace with Green Tea Anglaise and Tuile

Kracher Beerenauslese Cuvee 2009

Coffee or Tea

A happy bibber

THE WINES

Jacquesson 737 Champagne

A quote from Stephen Tanzer sums up this superb 91 pointer: “Pale gold. Complex, highly fragrant aromas of pear skin, honeydew and orange pith, with musky floral and mineral qualities gaining strength in the glass. Silky and expansive on the palate, offering intense, well-delineated citrus fruit and tarragon flavors lifted by chalky minerality. At once powerful and lithe, finishing with excellent thrust and lingering notes of orange and smoky minerals." Tanzer is one of numerous tasters giving over 90 pts rating.

Bollinger Champagne NV

The Special Cuvée is the result of the delicate blending between harvest grapes and a majority of reserve wines, part of which have been aged in magnums for 5 to 15 years. The blend is constant, drawing on reserve wines for 60% Pinot Noir, 25% Chardonnay and15% Meunier. The grapes are sourced from over 85% Grands and Premiers crus and cellar aged for more than twice the time required by the appellation. And yes, it has long association with Double Oh Seven. He knows about weight, power and elegance. But he knows never to have the Bolly shaken. Or stirred.

Placet Palacios Remondo 2012

This Viura from one of Spain’s most well-known winemakers is a traditional varietal which excels in the Rioja. The little age which we will enjoy adds some nutty notes to the apple and white peach undertones. The 2012 vintage was superb for the Viura (also known as Macabeo) resulting in a complexity that earned a Wine Spectator score of 90 for this wine.

Domaine des Comtes Lafon, Santenots-du-Milieu, Volnay 1er Cru, Burgundy, 2011

PInotphiles will enjoy the aromatics and rich palate elegance of this young, feminine style of Burgundy; “with an elegant, pure and airy essence of red pinot fruit. There is a highly seductive texture to the soil and mineral-inflected middle weight flavors”. Look out for “the inner mouth perfume and the length which is simply stunning." (Burghound 92-94). From a renowned maker we can expect complexity and length in a classic approach. Stephen Tanzer 92 pts, Parker 93 pts

Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte 2005

Smith Haut Lafitte's great terroir of deep Gunzian gravel, with old vines sinking several metres into the soil, produced stupendous results in an excellent year. This Graves has structure which is still youthful in its classic blend of 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot. Robert Parker actually did taste this one and wrote: “The inky/blue/purple-tinged 2005's extraordinary nose reeks of charcoal, incense, scorched earth, abundant blackberry, blueberry, and cherry fruit, toast, and spice. Good acidity, huge but sweet tannin, and fabulous precision as well as definition characterize this full-bodied, super-concentrated effort. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2030+." A trifle young; so some breathing in the glass may open up its possibilities even further.

Parker 95 pts , Wine and Spirits 94 pts, Stephen Tanzer 93.

Chateau Pichon Lalande 2001

The high proportion of Merlot in the blends from Chateau Pichon Lalande is a good reason why this wine, among the great wines of Pauillac, is always so seductive. This vintage has added structure with 36% Petit Verdot. Critics on both sides of the Atlantic rate this ready-to-drink now vintage very highly. Excelling in ripe structure of the finest quality from a highly regarded house, it charms as well as excites with vibrant and deep fruit.The serious tannins and acidity that promised of good aging described in write-ups penned four or five years ago praise a classic. It should offer intense pleasure now, though connoisseurs who answer its request for patience in the glass should be rapturously rewarded. Wine Enthusiast 95 pts, Robert Parker 93 pts, Wine Spectator 93 pts, Stephen Tanzer 92 pts.

Kracher Beerenauslese Cuvee 2009

This prestige sweetie is a renowned Austrian blend which, following some age in our cellar, has gained even greater elegance compared to when it was enjoyed in a previous IWFS pouring. Antonio Gallioni described this 92 pointer as follows: "A rich, deep palette of aromas and flavors emerges from the 2009 Cuvee Beerenauslese. Tropical fruit, peaches, yellow stone fruits and spices flesh out in a wine that is beautifully layered, voluptuous and textured. The blend is 75% Welschriesling and 25% Chardonnay, aged 80% in steel and 20% in cask. Residual sugar is 114 grams per liter. " A sweet, layered and complex finale from a top Austrian specialist grower and maker. Enjoy.