IWFSKL President's Dinner 2014 at Sage - magnificent!

December 13th 2014, Kuala Lumpur

Stephanie and Edna

The President’s Charity Dinner is the IWFS Kuala Lumpur Society’s annual black tie gala dinner and was once again being held at the Sage Restaurant on Saturday, 13th December 2014. This made for the third time in succession. It's a great fit - the Japanese/French fusion creations are consistently magnificent, they do our wines free of corkage and supply excellent glassware, and the service is superb. And people like the open kitchen which lets them watch Chef Daniel and his team in action, Why fix something which clearly isn't broke? Equally, long term relationships make for flexibility which is never a bad thing. Especially in Malaysia. A very big "attaboy" to Jeremy for once again liaising with the Sage and ensuring everything on that side was shipshape and Bristol fashion.

We also use the occasion to look to raise funds for local charities. In this, members donate good bottles from their fridges which then go under the auction hammer at the dinner where members and guests bid up the bottles. All proceeds go to the designated charities. Donations in cash and kind from suppliers and friends are also invited and this year we had quickly amassed a total of 32 lots (which got added to as members brought additional bottles with them to the dinner for the hammer. This gave a happy headache as to where to slot them in to the existing sequence, but was effected quickly and without argument - well done Wong Yin-How!)

IWFS KL Secretary Yin-How, Committee Members Brian and Dr Stephen and IWFS KL President Dr Rajan

The KL Branch has been around for growing and expanding for sixty one years and has now expanded to boast a membership is now 112 (including Joint Members). This makes it the biggest branch in the whole of the Asia Pacific Zone of the IWFS. The society had a bit extra bunce from the Beano that was the APZ Festival the previous year so it was felt the boat could be pushed out a bit with regard to the wines without raising the price too much. So it was we started with the lavish and lush Moet Rose NV in our flutes to pair with the delightful Tuna Otoro and Kampachi Kingfish sashimi canapes. Great sweet and salty blitzes of zippy loveliness and a raspy freshness on the sashimi which made the bubbles tingle and tantalise. Good start. 

IWFS KL President Dr Rajan Karunakaran

President Rajan called dinner to order and did the usual welcome to members and guests and noted with… possibly relief, actually, that all had adhered to the black tie dress code. One suspects that the relief lay in the fact that no one (ie him) had to eject someone for not having a black tie. Well, we had been reminded about three times in the run up to the dinner to remind our guests about black tie. I brought a couple of spares in my tux pocket just in case. Not nice to send someone home for a tie. A loud jacket maybe, but not a tie. I had been designated to say a few words about the wines and the pairings, which went quite fast. I always get a bit fast when I talk about wines. Other things not so, but wine talk gets me talking faster than the Roadrunner can run. Odd. Anyhow, duty got duly done and we all got down to the fun. 

Spoiler alert - the evening was magnificent. All the dishes and wines were standouts, both individually and in pairing terms. It was good to hear lots of positive comments about this from all around the room and from a broad range in terms of palate sophistication. Sometimes you only get the odd one saying something, but tonight there was quite a bit from a goodly number of people. And when it comes from those who really know their food, you know you've been royally wined and dined. Yes.

Gotcha! Chef Daniel being rudely interrupted by me

The Seared Smoked Norwegian Salmon was magnificent - a meaty chunk of beautifully fresh meat seared to light perfection. Full of taste and flavour, the Avocado Mousseline with Avruga Caviar were a bit secondary but added a small hint of season to support the main element. Wonderful texture on the meat, that slight give on the bite but that delightful melt as the spit hits the fin. Perfecto. 

Seared Smoked Norwegian Salmon, Avocado Mousselline and Avruga Caviar

Pairing with the Pinot Gris might originally be viewed as a bit off - surely a salmon needed something with a bit more heft? Normally, maybe so - but this was no normal Pinot Gris. The Akarua had a firm enough body that cut the health giving Omega 3 oils in the Salmon superbly, and able to do so without undermining the lovely fruit in the wine. The notes talked about orange and ginger, I got peachy pineapple and dragonfruit. A smart choice, anything heavier or oakier would have masked and smothered the meat - the Akarua complemented so wonderfully well. One of those where you half forget the way they pair and only later realize that you have just tasted something for the ages. Lots of "oohs" and "ahhs" and praise for the Salmon on the table. I just shut up and ate.

Plating up the Salmon

Second out was entitled the Royale of Tarabagani with Mirugai, Hotate and Daikon Cress. I had to look it up and found it was Japanese Red King Crab Soup which got served with an added scallop and something that had that texture of bean curd and egg custard tart - a kind of Scallop Tau Foo Fah but with a miso soup feel about the thing. Tastewise it was brilliant - the broth and the tau foo with the amazingly sweet crab and equally amazingly fresh scallop blending and melding into something incredible. Felt like the tau foo gave it soft undertone texture to let the crab meat swim around a lake of light umami goo in the mouth. I could try and claw for superlatives (claw? crab? geddit?) but this will do. Words have never been the best means to describe sensations, especially in food and wine. I do what I can.

Royale of Tarabagani with Mirugai, Hotate and Daikon Cress

Pairing with the Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc 2009. I had shared with the assembed that the Nosey Parker had described this wine as "astonishing" and "Possibly the best dry white the estate has produced since the proprietors, the Cathiards, acquired the property in 1990", and for me it totally lived up to all the praise heaped on it by the wine writers. A blend of 90% sauvignon blanc, 5% sauvignon gris and 5% sémillon, it was delightful and delicious and a range of other de-lovely words you might think of.  Standout wine of the night, and possibly of the year for me.

All decked out in best bib and tucker...

In my introduction to the wines, I shared that some of us IWFS KL members had been on a jolly to Bordeaux the previous year and had visited the Smith Haut Lafitte vineyard and drunk this wine in the cellar. For me, it combines the Sauvignon Blanc zest with a Chablis richness and lots of layers. It was a stunning vineyard and property, and a stunning wine to sear the memory. I also suggested that for those having the fish as the main, it might be worth to try and save some as it should be a cracker match as well. Don't know if anyone did. I didn't. But then I was having the beef. 

Me and the Wine Doctor had been volunteered as auctioneers for the night. We decided it would be best to split the sessions and each conduct half the lots in each session. We were ably assisted by spotters and recorders to get the contacts of the winning bidders. The first part of the auctions went quite smoothly and rapidly, and it was back on the table for the main courses. Both the Surveyor and Pontet-Canet had been poured during the auction and were waiting for demolition. 

Wong Kin Mun, Vanya, and David Teh

Named after New Zealand's first Surveyor General, the 2010 Surveyor Thompson Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir was intended to pair primarily with the fish but at the same time should also be able to extend to the lamb. Matching wine and food is primarily looking to connect similar textures and weight in both - light food with light wine, medium weight food with medium texture wines, and so on. At the same time, we need to have some versatility whereby one wine can flit across one or two dishes. Hence, the lightish textured Surveyor for both Fish and Lamb main courses. The vineyard practises biodynamic viticulture and is a working on full biodynamic certification. The relatively frost free, warm mesoclimate and free draining soils provide ideal grape growing conditions, producing an excellent concentration and intensity of flavours. The notes talked about “Dark Ruby red in the glass with a rich and vibrant bouquet of blackberry, red currant and spicy dried herb aromatics. A warm rich palate with multidimensional brooding dark flavours, underpinned by layers of texture and with a long graceful finish…”(RP 90/100). We found it pleasant in a chugging kind of way - quite full in the mouth and on the nose and with big fruit and a long finish. It did indeed stand up well to the bit of lamb I stole from dinner neighbour Wong Chee Leong. 

But for me it was the pairing of the Pontet-Canet and the beef which was the star for the night. Both were stunning, and the pairing was a magnificent Christmas present - succulent, tender meat cut beautifully by the firm and full tannins of this darling wine. As with the Surveyor, the Pontet-Canet had been chosen with multiple pairing in mind- this classic Pauillac Cabernet based Bordeaux would be a traditional natural with Lamb but should also go cracker with the Beef. I admit I am biased; I love this wine and the stories behind it - the biodynamics, the horses that eat the grapes, and the people behind the wine - but it was just lovely to drink this on the night. Good bodied without being over punchy in the mouth, silky tannins, even finish, good full fruit in the mouth with enough in complexity terms to satisfy those who want such things in the wine. And as said the beef was totally out of this world - lovely lovely, lovely combo. 

Medallion of Beef with Foie Gras and Red Wine Sauce - phwooargh...

The second half of the auction got staged at this time and the bids were higher than usual. Got a bit semi serious to the end of the night as the bids got higher and higher for some wonderful wines. Total raised topped out at RM190,000 which was absolutely brilliant. The big spenders looking to stock their wine fridges for the year had clearly come out with a very generous vengeance. The charities should be wonderfully pleased - I heard whispers that other charities are quite envious of the fact that so much is raised by IWFS in one event - to get this kind of money they would need three or four events (which naturally comes in at a lot of time and phone calls to armtwist for sponsors and to organise).

Sanjeev, Serena, Chris, Dr Rajan and James the Banker

The 2010 Chateau Rieussec Sauternes being paired with dessert was clearly way before its time - the notes talked about leaving it for twenty years and then maybe it could be drunk. Someone reasoned that many of us at the dinner would not be around in twenty years so best to drink now and bear the infanticide being committed on the wine. True to the notes, it will be magnificent in twenty years. But it was tasty enough on the night. Nicely sweet and crisp and even in terms of syrup and cloying. Figgy, sweet, apples and pears with honey. 

Guests Paul and Molly Lim

And then it was over. Well, almost. It is tradition that no prisoners be taken and the few fizz and desserts that were left got swallowed by the diehards. I know because I was there. As the faithful reporter on the comings and goings of the Society, one must do one's duty. Or so I am told. Didn't get so many shots of the food as usual - bit up and down with the auction I guess. Or it might have been the wonderful booze. Not unknown for the reporting responsibilities to get swallowed up in the enjoyment of the evening. I do what I can, but my  weakness for a good chug of wine with a tasty chunk of beef gets in the way. The universe just comes into perfect karmic focus and much else becomes secondary to the moment. O so wonderful and blessed to be human and to have the sentience to recognise the perfect bliss that is food and wine!

Bummer alert - some of us remembered the good Doctor Gan who had sadly passed thirteen days previously whilst undergoing chemotherapy for a resurgence in his leukemia. He refused to become a member of the IWFS but always enjoyed an invite to this annual bunfight. He always got one. Also continually refused to own or wear a monkey suit, maintaining his dark suit was sufficient for the occasion. He was missed. 

President’s Charity Dinner at Sage Restaurant

The Menu

Canapes

Tuna Otoro with Aioli and Nori

Kampachi King Fish with Salted Kelp

NV Moet and Chandon Rose Imperial 

First Course

Seared Smoked Norwegian Salmon with Avocado Mousseline with Avruga Caviar

2011 Akarua Pinot Gris

Second Course

Royale of Tarabagani with Mirugai, Hotate and Daikon Cress

2009 Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc Grand Cru Classe De Graves

Palate Cleanser

Soursop Granite

Main Course

Pan Fried Amadai with Sea Scallop, Baby Spinach and Caviar Beurre Blanc

Or

Slow Cooked Hillside Lamb Rack with Shiromiso and Blue Cheese Sauce

Or

Medallion of Beef with Foie Gras and Red Wine Sauce

2010 Surveyor Thompson Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir

2008 Chateau Pontet Canet Grand Cru Classe Pauillac

Dessert

Guanaja Dark Chocolate Marquis with Anglaise Sauce and Yoghurt Ice Cream

2010 Ch Rieussec Sauternes

Coffee or Tea

THE WINES

WINE 1 - NV Moet and Chandon Rose Imperial 

Rosé Impérial is a spontaneous, radiant, romantic expression of the Moët & Chandon style, a style distinguished by its bright fruitiness, its seductive palate and its elegant maturity. 50% Pinot Noir, 40% Pinot Meunier, 10% Chardonnay.  Dosage 9%. Glowing pink with amber highlights in the glass, a bewitching lively bouquet of red fruits (wild strawberry, raspberry, cherry) with floral nuances of rose and a slight hint of pepper. Palate combines the juicy, persistent intensity of the berries with the fleshiness and firmness of peach and the freshness of a subtle note of menthol. 

WINE 2 - 2011 Akarua Pinot Gris from Central Otago in New Zealand

Akarua is an iconic Central Otago winery, crafting premium wines since 1999.  The wine is 100% Pinot Gris from Bannockburn. Bright and clear in appearance with a pale golden hue in a style that is well structured and with a richness and poise that typifies Akarua Pinot Gris. On the nose, lifted aromas of orange blossom and pear juice lead to a lush layered palate with white peach and citrus flavours. The wine finishes with a zesty punch of fresh ginger and orange peel tang.

WINE 3 - 2009 Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc Grand Cru Classe De Graves

A blend of 90% sauvignon blanc, 5% sauvignon gris and 5% sémillon. 

Brilliant yellow in the glass, a quite delicate nose with floral overtones. Its full aromatic potential is released with aeration, revealing hints of yellow fruit (vineyard peaches, apricot), flowers (honeysuckle, broom flowers), and a touch of flint. The wine starts out straightforward on the palate, filling out to become rich and powerful (this is undoubtedly a food wine). The aftertaste is delightfully flavoursome, with yellow fruit (mango, apricot, and candied pineapple), sweet spice, and gunflint. The finish is quite long and delicious, and the wine is altogether rich and savoury.

Robert Parker had this to say: "… Possibly the best dry white the estate has produced since the proprietors, the Cathiards, acquired the property in 1990, this wine exhibits a sensational fragrance of buttered citrus, honeyed melons and a touch of grapefruit, lemon zest and orange rind. It also displays grapefruit on the attack and mid-palate as well as real opulence, terrific acidity and length. Drink it over the next 15-20 years. Astonishing!" (RP 98/100).

WINE 4 - 2010 Surveyor Thompson Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir

Surveyor Thomson Wines reflects the intimate connection between the Hall-Jones family and New Zealand's first Surveyor General, John Turnbull Thomson (known as Mr Surveyor Thomson, hence the wine name). 

The vineyard practises biodynamic viticulture and is a working on full biodynamic certification. The relatively frost free, warm mesoclimate and free draining soils provide ideal grape growing conditions, producing an excellent concentration and intensity of flavours. 

“Dark Ruby red in the glass with a rich and vibrant bouquet of blackberry, red currant and spicy dried herb aromatics. A warm rich palate with multidimensional brooding dark flavours, underpinned by layers of texture and with a long graceful finish…”(RP 90/100).

WINE 5 - 2008 Chateau Pontet Canet Grand Cru Classe Pauillac

Following biodynamic principles in its vineyards and cellars since 2005, in 2008 the sound of horse's hooves replaced that of tractors as an experiment designed to avoid compacting the soils. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon 65%, Merlot 30%, Cabernet Franc 4% and Petit-Verdot 1%, it is a wine that has attracted a host of accolades. 

The Wine Advocate praises the 2008 as "A candidate for the “wine of the vintage (boasting) an opaque purple color as well as copious aromas of sweet blueberries, blackberries and black currant fruit intertwined with lead pencil shavings, subtle barbecue smoke and a hint of forest floor. Full-bodied, with fabulous richness, texture and tremendous freshness, this first-growth-like effort is more developed than the uber-powerful 2010. Give it 5-8 years of cellaring and drink it over the following three decades. Bravo!"  (WA 96/100). 

WINE 6 - 2010 Ch Rieussec Sauternes

Chateau Rieussec is planted to 90% Semillon 7% Sauvignon Blanc and 3% Muscadelle. Harvests are done in passes and could last for as long as 6 to 8 weeks.

“…. in bottle it has become a contender for the finest Sauternes of the vintage. It is blessed with a pure and lifted bouquet with ripe peach, nectarine and honey, hints of shaved ginger poke their head above the surface with aeration. It is very subtle. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, perfectly judged acidity and convincing harmony. This is a sophisticated Sauternes with superb mineralite and outstanding persistency. I will confess that I pinned this as “Yquem” and was both shocked and pleased when its identity was revealed.” (WA 96/100).

CHARITY AUCTION - WHERE THE MONEY GOES

Over recent years, the amounts raised has been substantial due to the amazing generosity of our members and guests by way of cash donations and the proceeds of the wine auction. IWFS KL members and supporters donate wines or dinner vouchers to help raise funds for channeling toward deserving causes. Last year a sum of RM130,090.00 was achieved of which we all should be very proud. We always hope to exceed our previous records!! We have therefore a challenge before us to try to reach a substantial target as we did last year but I am sure that with your continued generous support we will again be proud of what we can achieve. Please show your compassion and caring for the poor, unfortunate people that we will be supporting; they really need all the help and assistance that we can offer.

You can rest assured that the charities we help have been properly vetted are most appreciative of our assistance. In fact they always express their delight and request us to extend their thanks to you all.

This year we will be supporting two new charities - the Special Children Society of Ampang (SCSOA) and the Society for the Severely Mentally Handicapped Selangor & Federal Territory (SSMH).

The Special Children Society of Ampang is a non-profit organization, providing a centre for children and adolescents with various disabilities. The aim is to help them maximise their full potential and achieve an independent, fulfilling life. Established in June 1999 with three students it has now grown to seventy students, their ages ranging from three to thirty eight years. Some of their disabilities range from Down Syndrome, Autism, Cerebral Palsy, Global Delay, Epilepsy and Slow Learning. There is always a waiting list as space is limited and there is a shortage of teaching staff.

The Centre allows the special children access to a meaningful education and vocational training. It provides a holistic programme and training for the children. They aim to teach the special children living skills; to stimulate their faculties; to nurture their ability to progress further; to advance their educational needs; to provide them with vocational training and to expose them to sports, the arts and to society. It also provides guidance for the parents, families and caregivers.

It is run and managed by a parent-steering committee with the assistance of volunteers, teachers and a team of operational staff. It is currently funded by contributions from parents, public donations and fund raising activities. They stress that they are in dire need of help to cover their mounting running expenses and they now wish to extend the Centre in order to help more who are on the waiting list.

The Society for The Severely Mentally Handicapped, Selangor & Federal Territory was founded in 1984 because of the determination of a group of parents with mentally disabled children. It is a tax-exempt non profit organisation that provides day care and training to severely mentally disabled children aged 2-19 years old. These children have great difficulty in using their limbs and jaws. The systematic habit training routines taught here enable these children to cope. Every child has an Individualised Educational Programme. 

They are guided through simple communication and manual skills, basic health and safety habits and they eventually progress to basic reading and arithmetic skills.

The Centre is staffed by five full time teachers, a housekeeper and an administrator. There is a physiotherapist, an occupational therapist and a speech therapist. They are all supported by a Panel of Educational and Training Advisors. Parents, volunteers and some medical professionals help out. It also promotes and stimulates research concerning severe mental disability in order to develop locally appropriate methods of care and treatment.

All of the charities we have supported are always most appreciative of our assistance. They continually request for us to extend their thanks to everyone; they do really need all the help and assistance that we can offer.

More details and photos of the centres and their activities can be found at the respective websites: 

www.scsoa.org.my 

www.ssmh.org.my

There are also videos on Youtube 

SCSOA - http://youtu.be/zvoqClGfTCU

SSMH -  http://youtu.be/ACy62T8bius

I do recommend you take some time to look at the videos. Some of the disabilities are heartbreakingly severe.  We able-bodied tend to take so much for granted. Silly things like walking, or putting on a shirt by ourselves. These are things that these kids dream about. And when you see the look on their faces when they achieve something like…… walking, or putting on a shirt by themselves - unbelievable. As if the sky had just opened and the sun had smiled on them. Real, total, pure achievement. The staff of these Centres have a strength way beyond most of us and are some of the true unsung angels in our society. 

So, please do dig deep to buy up these vinous treasures. Because when you open them in the company of friends and share the story of where they came from, the wine will surely taste that little bit sweeter. Good bidding!!

“Fragrance remains in the hand that gives the rose”

Memories of my friend Dr Gan Chong Wan

The Pork Luck Club has lost one of our fellowship. Dr Gan Chong Wan was our very dear friend whose friendship and company we will miss tremendously.

I just want to share some of my memories of him to try and get some of this pain and sadness I am feeling out of my system. We all knew he was on borrowed time, but his death has hit me harder than I thought it would. Editing this is still choking me up.

He was a Leukemia survivor. Diagnosed twelve years ago, he beat the thing and had just recently celebrated ten years in remission. It resurfaced late August this year and he had undergone two sessions of chemotherapy. The results were promising. He and I shared Pol Roger Champagne and Oysters and Pork Belly at the Ribs on November 6th. Then he felt well enough to join us at the Ginza Sushimasa with Toru-san and PLC friends on November 15th. Seems that sometime soon after this he contracted some viral fever and was laid out for three days. He was getting back to normal and recovering, but on Friday November 28th I received a text from his sister saying he was in ICU at UH and that he was in very bad shape. It was thought he would not survive for long, but apparently he swore that he would. Seems UH were pumping him with stabiliser meds and sedatives for severe pain and seeking to stop the organs from dying. However, at 3am Sunday November 30th his family received a phone call from UH and they were with him when he passed at 6.30am. He was 62.

A wake was held at Gui Yuan Funeral Parlour in PJ on December 1st from 3pm and it had been decided that a Roast Pig would be served. Friends were also invited to bring food and wine and whiskey to celebrate Dr Gan's life. We arrived at 5.30pm and brought some white wine. Luckily it was screwtop as no one had a corkscrew - mine had been transferred out of its usual place in the backpack for some air travel reason. There was red wine and brandy, though few seemed in the mood to drink. I was. I cracked the white and got stuck in. We sat with friends David Law and Philip Chai (friends from his short time with Musical Theatre in the early 1980s) and Jimmy Tang and sister Yoong, friends since primary school days. We were all pretty desolate.

Mr Tan from Checkers Restaurant showed up with some croissants and prunes wrapped in bacon. Mr Tan is also is a cancer survivor and I know that Dr Gan helped him through some of his not so good times with the treatment. Gan's old schoolfriends were also in attendance. Many had also been friends since primary and secondary school days. The mood was somber but not too sad. His sisters were playing some of his favourite classical and opera tunes and showing a slideshow of photos from his life that his brother had quickly put together. That he could do this with only one hour sleep on a thirty hour trip from Wisconsin was little short of remarkable. 

At the Noble House in Jalan Delima, Kuala Lumpur

A golden flower shrine around a photo of Gan had been put together with fruit and candles and sweet cake offerings and placed before the coffin. The coffin was open and I felt I had to go see him one more time. I barely recognised him. His face was all puffy, apparently from the steroids he had been pumped with in the efforts to keep him alive. If I had my time again, I would prefer not to have seen him like that. But there you go. We take our friends in both good and bad shape and these become the totality of our experience with them. 

Old friends May Ph'ng and Siang came to pay respects. May shared that she had lit 64 candles to help speed Dr Gan's transmigration - in Buddhism, as I understand it, the spirit/soul/essence leaves the body and either goes onward toward enlightenment or returns to a newborn being to learn whatever was not learned in this present lifetime. And whether this newborn is a higher or lower lifeform depends on our karma and merit earned in this lifetime. We shared some Roast Pig and wine. 

The wine helped shift the low mood. Felt like I had been whacked by a big stick all day. Dr Gan's sisters shared stories of him and his life and friends. Seems he and present PM Najib were schoolmates and sat next to each other in the classroom. The story went that whenever Najib was naughty, Dr Gan always got the blame. They stayed in touch through the years and it seems Najib was a regular visitor to the Gan household when travel and work permitted. Seems also that PM Najib visited the Gui Yuan to pay his respects the following morning prior to the funeral, replete with outriders and bigass car. I saw them haring along the Federal Highway back to KL as I was on my way to the funeral.

Arriving, I parked in the same space as the night before. The mood was more subdued today. David, Jimmy and Yoong had come, and it was David who shared that Najib had come. Fellow PLC friend May Peng also came to pay respects. Everyone still felt shock that Dr Gan was no longer with us. The brother was bearing up well, the sisters not so.

At the IWFS KL Presidents' Dinner December 2013

Again, the funeral was not a grand affair. No chanting or ritual, unlike the ruckus that was going on at the funeral next door, Someone was playing big drums and something sounding like a World Cup vuvuzela horn and they were belting out "Roll Out The Barrel" and "She'll Be Coming Round The Mountain" military style as the deceased in the adjoining part of the compound was being taken for the last drive to the incinerator. Felt a bit bizarre but I'm sure it would have made the Doc smile. Didn't seem to make anyone else smile, though. It also drowned out the speech of Gan's brother thanking everyone for coming to pay their respects. We all made one last round of the coffin where our friend was laying. He looked less puffy today. That was when I noticed the shirt he was wearing - I have an exact same one hanging in the closet at home. He was open collar, no tie as is often imposed by the funeral directors. The sisters know their brother well - he hated restrictions of all kinds. Then the minions moved in, hammered the lid into place and made ready for the last ride.

As the flower shrine was being dismantled in preparation for moving the coffin to the car, I saw that everyone was turning to face away. Never seen this before, and found it a shade disconcerting - in the West, to show one's back at this juncture would be seen as a mark of disrespect... but then we are not in the West. Clearly there was some meaning in this that eluded me. Once the coffin was in the car and closed, everyone moved into place and we all followed the hearse around the compound as it made its way to the burner. The family placed their hands on the car and it slowly made one round of the complex. There was a slight delay as the forerunning deceased had the barrel rolled out one last time. But no one was in any mood to rush anything.

New Year's Eve Dec 2013 at Soleil

And again, as the coffin was taken from the hearse, everyone turned their backs to it! Someone later suggested that possibly this was to avert any bad luck that might arise as a result of seeing the last walk of a friend. Could be. The coffin was placed onto the burner rail, the cinder block door lifted, the rollers moved the coffin into place, the door lowered, and that was it. Goodbye Doc.

Sadder than sad. My good friend got took away and I will miss his laugh, his wit, his intelligent humour and his sardonic view of life and its madness and occasional seeming futility. Prior to his initial diagnosis, he had a tendency to rail against people's shortcomings. After successfully completing his treatment he saw more of the comedy in it all and chose to laugh at it more than anything. In this sense, I witnessed a life change in him and we enjoyed ten years of his company in this changed attitude of mind. 

There was Buddhism in him, for he would visit the temple on the auspicious days of the year. Though he was not a lover of ritual ceremony and pomp. For him, the simple joys of food on the street with a breeze heralding rain, or with his dogs out for a run would be enough to remind him that all was well in the universe. His breadth of knowledge on many things was staggering, especially for things Chinese. He loved his Chinese history and porcelain and he amassed an amazing collection which he would delight in taking out to handle - he always said that porcelain was a tactile medium rather than being merely visual. 

Chinese New Year 2014

He had a great passion for good food cooked well, and would always insist on ordering (and more often pre-ordering) the food for our get togethers. He introduced us to so many excellent eating places in the city and beyond. Dengkil Seafood, You Mi Chi, Lao Mah Zhi, and found one of our lost favourites the Hoi Kee. He would rail against the upmarket Chinese cuisine outlets like the Noble House chain, saying the over sweet sauces catered more to the gwailo market and rendered the food not as authentically Chinese as he would have demanded. But he would occasionally tolerate them and indulge us when the company and the wine were good. I have great memories of times with him at Sage, Cilantro, Soleil, the Overseas on Imbi, the Marco Polo on Raja Chulan, and Checkers in Damansara. These were among those to which we would return on many occasions. I also have great memories of him coming to gatherings at our home with friends and food and wine. He would cook, serve, eat, wash dishes, and then we would share our good whiskey, brandy and armagnac with him when everyone had gone home. We would go with him to concerts at the MPO, eating at Chinoz or Ben's and having Gin and Tonics in the intermission. He truly loved his music. He also loved good food, good wines and good company and he valued his friends hugely. That so many stayed with him through the years is testament to his character and how much we all treasured his friendship and company. 

He taught me that our time together is too short and precious to fritter. If you're going to have a time together, make sure it is a darn good one and spare no reasonable expense. Break out the good wine and food, always. And for him, we always would. 

His late mother and favourite pet dogs are in the grounds of the Gan home and we hear that the Doc will similarly be staying there. Someone asked what would happen if they ever sell the house, to which friend and wit David Law responded by saying that it would not be entirely "vacant possession".

One of the last things he said to me as we were leaving the Ribs from the Pol Roger dinner was "Dying is easy." I guess he had lived with his own mortality for a long time and had come to terms with it. And he was a doctor - he would know that not every life can get saved. Not to say that he was submitting to anything - he had absolute conviction that he would beat the thing again and he was very aggressive in his treatment regime. He wasn't supposed to die. We once joked about moving to Songkhla when we retired to open a bordello where we all would live and look out for each other. Maybe next time around. I hope there is one.

January 17th 2015 will mark the seventh day of the seventh week that he passed, which stands as the time when the soul will completely pass. Prayers will be said for him at 10am at the Buddhist temple on Jalan Gasing where a tablet to his memory is located. I would call on his friends to raise a glass and toast his memory and our time together. Let us each honour him as we know best and how he would want - in pork, wine and friendship. 

He would definitely not want us to be sad. Normally he would scold people for feeling sad, saying "life too short lorrr." He's right, as he always usually was. But then the dead don't have to live with death. For those who are still alive, it is a sad, sad time. I mourn the loss of my dear, dear friend. 

At the Soleil August 2014

And I hope he would spare me on this occasion. Not all sadness is a bad thing. It keeps us human. Like Dr Gan himself. There's a line from the second Star Trek movie where Captain Kirk is giving a eulogy for Spock who had been apparently killed by nuclear radiation. Kirk says of Spock "Of all the souls I have known, his was the most.... human." Of my friend, I would say the same. Goodbye Doc.

IWFS Delhi Royale - Great ambience, food and wines!

November 20th 2014

Sheesh… just back from a belly buster in Taipei, straight into a back to back sake session at Ginza Sushimasa at Le Meridien and an IWFS dinner the following day. Everything comes at once sometimes. Writing this the day after, definitely got that tired, both ends burning kind of feel. Bit run down with all the partying. Need a break. Now writing six days later, feel much better. It is amazing what a couple of nights off the booze can do for you. Good sleep and total recharge of the mental and physical batteries. Yes.

This would be new IWFS Committee member Bachan's first organised function for the IWFS in KL so naturally we would support. It also helped that the wines looked very tasty and with the whole bunfight coming in at under RM200 it was an easy yes for us.  

Notwithstanding, an underwhelming turnout of 31 was slightly disappointing though in truth not unexpected. Members tend to shun both Chinese and Indian cuisine functions for pretty much the same reasons - they can prepare far tastier and more authentic food at home for a fifth of the price so why bother? 

Whilst I understand the argument and have some degree of sneaking support for it, I do feel that ultimately one should feel comfortable with sacrificing some element so as to benefit the whole. Company first, then other aspects will fall into line. Sometimes putting ones preferences above the company of friends is not entirely good form. Though if the entire bunfight feels overpriced, then drop it like a hot stone.

The Delhi Royale is located in a block of shophouses at the Tun Razak end of Jalan Yap Kwan Seng. For those who remember the old Eurodeli (the building is still there, it is now the Songket) it is the block that now hides it from the main road. The blurb on the Delhi Royale said that it is being operated by the same group that operates the the “Sip n Dine” in Chandigarh, Punjab. This group has a legacy of 25 years of operating North Indian Fine Dining restaurants. The Delhi Royale is set up along the same high standards by this group and it is one of the very few fine dining restaurants serving North Indian Cuisine in Kuala Lumpur.

Oi Camera Boy - Any fear of any wine coming to this table?

Headed by, er, Head Chef Mr Raj Gurun (extensive experience in Chandigarh, Delhi and Dubai for eight years) his team of chefs all hail from India and are experts in the various dishes that they cook. Seems most of the ingredients used in the preparation of the dishes are imported from India. This is particularly true of the spices used, whereby the chefs seek to ensure that the food tastes as authentic as it can.

The blurb also claimed the "service staff do perform to a very high standard." Well….   not initially on this night. I had to get some extra pours of fizz on at least two occasions whilst the staff were running around in the kitchen. Also snatched a beer for Big Tony. In fairness, this was the start of the evening and the staff were frantically obeying the order of the kitchen and getting the food out and served while it was hot. Aside from this initial blip, the rest of the evening in service terms was very good.

We parked around the back which was spacious, easy and wonderfully free. In total contrast to the night before when we had to pay RM35 to park at the Meridien. Horrendous parking charges. Our friend had to pay RM44 - we were horrified. Absolutely the last time I will go there, good restaurants or not. I do not see how any hotel is justified in charging such prices. Let them rot.

Large welcoming doors invite entry into a beige, black and brown high ceilinged space with not overcold airconditioning. More a modern Western feel than anything with some well placed art which nicely avoided the usual tacky Moghul style drapes and cushions one often finds in such establishments. Very relaxing and comfortable, and nicely swish and pleasant.

Paneer Papri

We got welcomed with the Queen Adelaide NV Sparkling Fizz. Bright and lemon gold, the slightly sweetish bubbles would prove the perfect foil for the spicy fire of the starter food. Lovely and light with excellent balance across the whole. Not too crisp, not too sweet, dancing across the top of the mouth and taming the fire of the food. A brilliant food friendly wine, and perfect with this spicy fare. 

The IWFS was also offering beer with the food since some members felt that only beer was a good match with Indian cuisine. Well, and maybe, and so the restaurant had sourced Kingfisher Beer to be made available to those who wanted it. In fairness, the restaurant had gone out of its way to source the beer, so kudos here. It was coming in large tall glasses which felt a bit too much especially after the excesses of the previous weekend and the present delicacy of the internals, so I snaffled a drop in a champagne flute to taste. Felt a bit thin after the fizz, though nutty enough to maintain interest. Though clearly was just not in the mood for beer on the night. No problem - the wines would prove well enough for the food.

The wonderful Mutton Gullafi

The two Canapes were very good and set the tone of the food being spicy without being too hot. The Mutton Gullafi starter was standout, well excellent with good spice and a brilliant match with the slightly sweetish Queen Adelaide bubbles. The Paneer Papri cheese had a crunchy nut coating which lent good texture to the somewhat firm cheesey interior, which got nicely set off with the yoghurt mint and chili sauce on the side. 

The 2012 Santa Rita Gran Hacienda Chardonnay came out and initally felt a bit thin. A second somewhat more chilled taste showed good balance, no oak with a good steel nose of banana and papaya. Mid weight, good around the mouth and a pleasantly long finish with cleansing grip. Very nice, very easy but with enough complexity and character to pique. Another very good food wine.

Yakina Shorba soup and Pappadums

The Starter Yakini Shorba soup came across like a thin Mulligatawny, a bit on the watery side with spice and mince (presumably) lamb which felt a bit undercooked and tartare though it lent a lovely texture to the broth. Tasty enough and a standout for some of our Indian members. 

"Oi, Camera boy. Where's the food?" "Take yer photo first then maybe...."

We had both plain and black pepper poppadom to pair, the latter of which supercharged the soup into a flaming burning blitzkrieg of tastebud ripping fire. The plain was fine. Perhaps plain Paratha might have been better to soak up the broth, but then we Brits would say that - must soak up everything. I broke up the poppadum into the soup as directed by my neighbour who seemed to know about these things. It softened up the crispy thing and took the heat out of the poppadum pepper.

At this point, the food service got a bit slow. It was the gap between first and second rounds of food and seemed to go on for a good while. didn't time it, but began feeling decidedly hungry after a while. Some speculated that Bachan had put the fear of the Governor into the heart of the manager who as a result wanted all the food to be perfect. And quite right too - the Governor can be withering when he needs to be. 

IWFS Winemaster and Committee member Prakash with IWFS member Andy Davison

It was ultimately worth the wait. The curries were magnificent - textured veggie sauces and spice without burning. The acompanying rice was also excellent - a kind of oaky biryani style of individual grains that tasted of wheat and tea. We got some veggie kind of thing of sweetcorn and peppers which had me diligently separating the pepper out from the other bits. We also got plain and garlic naan bread which was most welcome.

This was accompanied by the third wine, the 2011 Repolusk Roter Traminer, Obergalnz from Austria and which was oh so lovely. Soft layers, a medium light mouth with spritzy riesling apricot fruits, a zappy lovely ring going down the throat like bells in an Austriain village church. A true food wine for Indian cuisine, whose spice and fire let a pleasant perfumed mouth shine through. A lovely, lovely wine. 

Chicken Tikka Masala, Garlic Naan, Pudhina Paratha, Corn Salad and Aloo Gobi.

We also got some spinach. The combo of all this curry, naan, veg and wine was an amazing mix of tastes - spice, hot, carbo, spinach, yoghurt, sweetcorn - a melange of crunch and bite and liquid fire rolling around the mouth and melding into flame and fire on the tongue. Which the Roter squashed and doused so very, very nicely and sweetly, with sugar water and lychee Turkish Delight coming through.

There next came the Chicken Tikka Masala which was magnificent. Creamy texture on the sauce with a perfectly well cooked bite on the bird. Lovely spice - heat without burn. Someone said that this was not so much authentic North Indian as more North London, claiming the dish had its origins there. Well and maybe. Google Research seems to point to Glasgow as the place of origin in 2009, though I have memories of eating something wildly similar on the streets of Bangsar in the mid 1990s. Tonight's offering was wonderfully tasty. Worth a return for this. Perhaps the chef is a Scotsman?

The 2012 Porcupine Ridge Syrah came out to accompany. Initially a bit apprehensive to the idea of a fiery Shiraz with this kind of food, this wine was light and fruity and clearly an excellent food friendly wine. Balanced, an easy drinker but possessing some depth and layers. Not overly complex but enough to tease with chocolate, damson and dark plum notes.

Fresh Tiger Prawn, Garlic Naan and the brilliant Vegetable Briyani

The Prawn Curry was… not quite right somehow. The prawn felt a bit off - not entirely fresh and somewhat soft in the bite. The sauce also felt a bit iffy. In contrast, the Mutton curry was excellent - firm, full, spice taste. With the single grain rice with its excellent crunchy lightly firm bite, the combo was brilliant. 

Ghulab Jamun and Khulfi. Or maybe it's the other way round...

It had been decided to throw an extra red to the gathered and the lovely 2010 E Guigal Cotes du Rhone made its appearance. And diosapperance, they were a thirsty brood tonight. Good light fruit, strawberries and cherry. Medium texture, full and fresh in the mouth, firmish tannins. This one is a young  drinker and we certainly drunk it young tonight. The ice cream was tasty and reminiscent of the brilliant one we had at Extebarri in San Sebastian - a hit of smoke and tea about it to add a sly afternote to the meal. 

Bachan thanking everyone - members, staff, chefs

In all, a good evening. Food was charming and tasty in a charmingly relaxing atmosphere. Service was ultimately good, though the early absence of wine topups and the mid meal lull needed mentioning. As said, the wines were perfect - not too complex, yet with balance and grace across them all. Perfect foils to tame the fire of the food and with enough range of tastes and mouthfeels to enhance and illuminate. Would return for the food and ambience. The Delhi wines on show looked a shade ordinary, will have to find out what their corkage is. You may need to take Prakash and his wine selections!!

Delhi Royale

http://www.delhiroyale.com/

No. 33, Lots 2 & 3 (Ground Floor) , Wisma Longrich,

Jalan Yap Kwan Seng 50450, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

Dine-in hours:

Lunch :- 11:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m.

Dinner :- 6:00 p.m. to 12:00 p.m.

Aman Aggarwal ( Managing Director) : (+6) 012 - 458 1102 

Vivek Patel ( Banquets & Events Manager): (+6) 010 - 430 5797

Dev Kaphle ( Restaurant Manager): (+6) 011 - 2311 8445

Phone: (+6) 032 - 165 1555, Fax: (+6) 032 - 164 9555

Mobile: (+6) 012 - 458 1102

Email: info@delhiroyale.com

GPS Coordinates & Position: 3°09'48.0"N 101°42'53.9"E

Well, Bindi me...

MENU

CANAPES

Paneer Papri

Mutton Gullafi

STARTERS

Yakini Shorba soup

Pappadums – 2 types

MAIN COURSE 1

Palak Paneer, 

Aloo Gobi, 

Makhni Dhall, Bhoondi Raita

Salad, Corn

Achar, Onions in Vinegar

Chicken Tikka Masala

Garlic Naan, Pudhina Paratha

MAIN COURSE 2

Mutton Masala, 

Fresh Tiger Prawns in thick curry

Salads

Vegetable Briyani

DESSERTS

Ghulab Jamun

Khulfi

WINES

NV Queen Adelaide

This sparkling has a delicate pale gold colour. On the nose it has a fresh, lifted bouquet with attractive fruit and subtle yeast character. Made from Chardonnay, Pinot Meunier and Pinot Noir, it is full flavoured, yet soft, elegant and well balanced. It finishes dry with the traditional Brut sparkling style.

2012 Santa Rita Gran Hacienda Chardonnay

Made from grapes sourced a single vineyard in the village of Corgoloin. A 100% Chardonnay with stone fruit hints and green apple skins. The palate is refined with a spine of minerals overlaid by melon and fresh citrus fruits. There is refreshing acidity on the finish. (WYH)

2011 Repolusk Roter Traminer, Obergalnz

Roter Traminer, cousin to the Gewürztraminer is a rare red grape varietal in Austria accounting for only 2% of Austria's wine production. Weingut Repolusk is renowned for their award winning wines grown on the mountain terraces in Styria.

The wine evokes fine aromas of rose blooms with the floral notes of traminer fruit. The taste is reminiscent of spice with honey accents. It is elegant with a lingering finish. 

(Falstaff 92/100) .

2012 Porcupine Ridge Syrah

Grapes from a vineyard in Swartland were fermented with selected Rhone yeast strains and the wine was matured in French oak .

Rich and powerful dark fruit flavours with loads of pepper and violets. Well structured palate with smooth tannins and lingering mouth feel. Judicious use of oak adds to the profile without overpowering the fruit. Good density with a delicious aftertaste. 

(From Winemaker’s notes)

2010 E Guigal Cotes du Rhone

This cuvee is typically a blend of 50% Syrah and the rest Grenache and perhaps some Mourvedre. Guigal is known throughout the Rhone Valley for paying the highest price for generic Cotes du Rhone, and that in large part explains the quality of this wine year in and year out. It enjoys an extended upbringing in foudre and stainless steel tanks and is always a dense ruby/purple-colored wine with lots of blue and black fruits intermixed with notions of kirsch, licorice, lavender and spice. Supple and surprisingly intense, this delicious effort can age for 4-5 years. (Wine Advocate 89).

Beer

Kingfisher