New Chef at Marco Polo - Star in the Making!

September 4th 2014

Quick note about the new chef at the Marco Polo Restaurant Kuala Lumpur. Don't have a name for him, but the story is that he was previously with the Noble House group and he has clearly been putting a signature stamp on the output from the Marco kitchen.

Lenglui, Chris, Sanjeev and Dave

The Marco Polo is one of the more long term and well established Chinese Restaurants in Kuala Lumpur. Located on the First Floor of Wisma Lim Foo Yong on Jalan Raja Chulan and still going after decades in the business, it serves up consistently good and tasty Cantonese cuisine, including one of the best Suckling Pigs in the city. It remains one of our go-to restaurants when stuck for somewhere to go eat.

The Marco has also undergone renovation, with the result that the ambience in the main hall is warmer, with easy lighting and more western tones. There is a big time large TV screen at the back of the stage and the fish on view have spanking looking new tanks. The restaurant entrance is more modern with deep brown wood facades and beige marble floor and walls and TV screens showing the latest promotions. I thought the private rooms looked pretty much the same, though the big Venetian Room at the back has undergone extensive remodelling and is now able to convert into a number of smaller rooms each equippable with the requisite karaoke machine. Very necessary.

Steamed Garoupa

We have been there twice in the last week. First time was last Thursday for a gathering of the Pork Luck Club to taste some Burgundies with Dave Chan from Artisan Cellars. This one had come about as the result of an email invitation to taste the wines and me thinking it might be better to taste them with food. The PLC agreed. Normally our PLC Porkies each bring a bottle to the dinner and we then figure out the order once we see what is in or around the ice bucket. This time it would all be the Pinot grape so wine sequence got basically decided on calibre and we all split the wine bill. Equally, matching food was marginalised for the same reason - it was Pinot with everything so we could concentrate on enjoying the wines with some very good food. And enjoy them we certainly did. Most people seemed to say the Bizot was the star of the night, with the Champagne and the Marsannay following close. The fizz seemed to go exceptionally well with some smoky grilled bacon we had bought and brought from Petaling Street and the Prawn Crackers supplied by a good Doctor friend, which got demolished in short order. And though the Marco has fair glassware, we decided to bring our own globes so as to showcase the wine as far as possible to its best. Dave suggested we also drink the Champagne from the Burgundy globes rather than the flutes. This was totally off beam and totally worked - the bubbles didn't stuck to the glass bowl and the volume we could sip seemed to coat the mouth cheeks and roof with sparky delight. Revelatory - I have seen the light and this is how the stars should be drunk.

Iberico Ribs

Standout dish on the night was the Tea Smoked Chicken, all bitter smoky skin and firm tasty meat. We also had Steamed Garouper which had been, er, steamed perfectly with chili and ginger - excellent bite and bounce on the flesh with the chili and cilantro sparking off the tongue and mouth. Marco Chef is also doing Iberico Ribs grilled with black pepper and paired with a magnificent sweet and citrus lemon plum kind of sauce. The citrus was supplied by some Pomelo which took the cut off the sweet a treat and was brilliantly balanced, though perhaps the ribs could have done with a bit more meat on them. We also had Kai Lan and Mushroom which came across as sweet and bitter (and a perfect counterpoint on the palate to follow the pork), and ended with some magnificent noodles - all bounce on the bite and slurp on the finish. One of our Porkies has a particular taste for Dim Sum so the Marco went out of their way to prepare some Porky Dumplings and Siew Yoke with mustard starters for us as well. We get great service from our friends at the Marco Polo - they really look after us and we hope we look after them as best we can. Great service should always be rewarded.

The Burgundies

The wines were:

2010 CHARLES AUDOIN Marsannay Cuvée Marie Ragonneau - easy and light, good fruit and body. Chewy tannins, meaty on the mouth.

2011 Domaine Bizot Vosne Romanee - delicate, light and breathy. Evaporated on the throat like an intake of violets and roses. Like breathing the air of French meadows of poppy and hay - total terroir. Good attack of acid and spice on the tongue. Also classy and brassy, like starting dinner with Christine Lagarde and finding it ending with Mae West. Va Va Voom!!

2011 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey Chambertin VV - have bought this previously from Vinum when they had a branch in Kuala Lumpur. Very firm and masculine belt on the throat. Hefty wine, potent, powerful. Big nose of cherries and berries. Went brilliantly with the Tea Smoked Chicken.

2011 Olivier Bernstein Chambolle Musigny "Les Lavrottes", 1er Cru - smelled like concrete and taste of charcoal at first. Later showed itself to be lean and clean, with cherryade grip and zip in the mouth. Bit sweetish, not so perfumed, with a masculine whack down the throat. Like Jean Reno or Gerard Depardieu coming up from behind and giving you a friendly whack on the back. And the chest.

We also had a crisp and clean 2007 Benoit Lahaye Grand Cru Champagne which was grapefruit and apples in the mouth and a lovely acid rasp on the throat. Low dosage meant it was far from sweet and as said drinking it from a Burgundy bowl glass was totally delightful in an opulent kind of way. A night of "swirly happiness" as someone put it. Perfect description.

Kai Lan and Mushroom

We were at Marco Polo again on September 8th to celebrate the Mid Autumn Festival with the adopted family. Also known as the Mooncake Festival, it is when friends and family give and eat Mooncakes, which are baked pastry pie style sweets made and traditionally only eaten between August and September. This is the eighth lunar month and on the 15th day is the Mid Autumn, also known as the Night of the Moon.  A typical mooncake consists of a thin, tender pastry crust enveloping a sweet, thick filling usually either Red Bean Paste or Lotus Seed Paste , and may contain one or more whole salted duck egg yolks in their center as the symbol of the full moon. The crust can have imprints of Chinese characters (often "harmony" and / or "longevity") along with flowers and other forms of decoration. They are given between family and friends during the festival. Legend has it they were also used to conceal letters sent between rebels looking to co-ordinate a revolt against the Mongolian rulers during the Yuan dynasty. 

Mooncake

Our meal started with a very tasty plateful of pig (Siew Yoke, Char Siew and Suckling Pig) which paved the way for a magnificent soup - apparently shark fin stuffed in a chicken stuffed in pig belly and presumably boiled. Which I guess seems to make it a kind of Chinese Haggis. I normally avoid Shark Fin for environmental reasons; also it has no detectable taste to me whatsoever so my stated reason becomes that my Western palate is unable to appreciate it. However, the adopted family remains very traditional in this regard and it is difficult to resist the peer pressure not to conform. So an exception gets made in this context so as not to offend the hospitality. Standing on principle occasionally can get short shrift and no point to cause offense.

Tea Smoked Chicken

Which proved to be the right decision since the soup turned out to be little short of amazing - an oily, soupy broth full of taste and texture. The chicken gave the fin a sense of fowl which somehow worked whilst the pig belly just melted. It was beyond words, but totally off the map in both taste and textural senses. And the idea of combining all of these in one dish - as said, amazing. The management seem to be giving chef some leash to create. And he is clearly creating. This was stunning. 

We had chef's Iberico Ribs without the sauce this time, and this presentation had slightly more meat. Noble House influence here is clear, though the absence of that signature sweet caramel sauce which somehow seems to find itself on  all of the Noble meat dishes was most welcome. Nice that chef allows the meat to speak for itself, though tonight's was more of a whispered "Ole!" rather than a shout from this particular Spanish Porker. Will be good to see what Chef can do with home grown ribs.  

Lenglui x 3

Next out was the Abalone and Broccoli in gunk sauce which everyone (bar one) on the table praised (I just don't get Abalone in Gunk) and we finished off with some strange black bat-like looking things which turned out to be a variant of water chestnut. They tasted like a chalky fibrous tapioca, with a crumbly cardboard texture which was strangely calming on the stomach. Different. And then there were the mooncakes, the main reason we had gathered in the first place. One green skinned thing with green lotus paste and nut chips was equally calming on the stomach. We snaffled one from the management to take home and save for weekend dessert with coffee.

I brought two bottles of The Lackey 2008, a good value Australian Shiraz which everyone seemed to enjoy. Full firm body with good balance across fruit and alcohol. Six years in the bottle, it is drinking nicely and went with pretty much all of the food. Some other bottles were brought, but only one Bordeaux Style got opened and a late evening glass proved inconclusive though certainly not bad. 

Porkies!!

Chef has an element of both the traditional and the modern deconstruction about him. Clearly able to meet existing expectations with his Abalone dishes, he seems also to be looking to tickle younger palates - omitting Sweet and Sour sauce from his peppered Pork Ribs is way not traditional Chinese. He learns quickly too, adapting ideas of others to create the new - on a previous visit, we once brought some duck from a favourite place on Ipoh Road where they smoke it first and then cook. His Tea Smoked Chicken (which apparently is a new addition to the menu) looks clearly to be influenced by this. This chap seems to have a future - hope the Marco can hang on to him!!

Marco Polo Restaurant

1st Floor, Wisma Lim Foo Yong, Jalan Raja Chulan

Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

03-2141 2233

Artisan Cellars (M) Sdn Bhd

Suite 8-12B-1, Level 12B, 

Menara Olympia,

8 Jalan Raja Chulan

43200, Kuala Lumpur

Malaysia

Contact:

Dave Chan 
012 698 9322

+6 03 2022 2789

Soleil First Anniversary Dinner - Very Happy One!

5th August 2014

Sheee… seems like all we've been doing of late is going to the Soleil for our food and drink fix. In danger of becoming part of the furniture. Also in danger of being a little more than a mouthpiece for the place. 

Well, nothing is forever, and our experience is that great places must be enjoyed and savoured while they are there. Something soon comes along to upend the magic - either higher prices which lead to lower portions or management getting in the way of chef performing the artistry. Not that we wish this on anyone, is just that this tends to be our experience and happens more often than we like. So it goes. 

It hardly seems a year has gone since we first heard about this new restaurant in the sleepy outskirts of Petaling Jaya. "Must go, must try" was the buzz we got from more than a couple of foodie friends raving about this new place. What sealed the initial deal was learning that Yuhei of Vinum fame was the sommelier and Effandie from Sage was the Maitre 'D. We figured these guys wouldn't be joining some hole in the wall joint and so we went. Five times. Between September and Christmas.  Wine dinners and New Year's Eve were great memories. We've also been there a few times this past year. 

So when we go the email saying Soleil would host a special wine pairing dinner to celebrate their first anniversary, it was a short hop to say yes. The regular friends also got the news and we had a table of five quite quickly. 

Sifu, Lenglui and The Doc

Arriving a tad late on the night, we got greeted by both Yuhei and Effandie. Indeed, that would be the last we would see of Effandie who would be catering to a private party at the upstairs section - presumably the boss was hosting some friends. 

Entering the restaurant and getting seated, it was clear that there was no real sense of occasion on the part of Soleil. This felt a tad disappointing - a first birthday is a real achievement in the restaurant world and having got there with praise and return visits from the culinary elite of KL is no mean feat. On paper, the menu and wines were brilliant, so maybe this was the real occasion and no real need for trumpets and fanfare. Okay - I guess I understand the lack of celebration, but….   perhaps it would have been good for SOMETHING to have happened. As it was, it came across as just another night. Frustrating. Maybe the shine is fading?

There was certainly no fade on the opening Tribaut Champagne Fizz - crisp and crunchy with a crab apple biscuit nose. Lemon sorbet and sherbet in the mouth with creamy bubbles on a honey finish. Always nice when an unknown label surprises on the upside. 

Butter Poached Lobster with Couscous Salad, Tomatoes and Cucumber

First course out was the Butter Poached Lobster, which was simply excellent. Nicely salted which helped lighten the texture toward bouncy perfection. The Couscous was firm while the sorbet gave a citrus chill zing on the tongue. There was also some avocado somewhere which lent a creamy smooth coating to bind the ensemble into a light bright mouthful of delight.

Got some very generous topups of the Champagne which helped to open up the butter on the lobster and the bubbles crisply cleaned the Avocado gunk from the throat. Great cleansing bubbles, though it later got a bit tarty when it had warmed to room temperature. Still very drinkable, though. 

2011 Domaine Henri Darnat Meursault
"Clos du Domaine"

As ever, the bread was stellar. We were given both regular and truffle butter and for some reason the ordinary outshone the truffle. Just a bit too much truffle which seemed to get in the way of the creamy sweet golden churn. 

Next out came the Meursault which was all steel and apples, flint and lime, stonefruit and dragonfruit. Also got loads of oak butter which would offset the gunk of the Butternut Soup - sorry, Bisque - very nicely.

The Meursault was an easy choice for Atlantic Brill given the firm meaty feel of the thing. On its day, Brill is lovely, somewhere between a plaice and a cod in taste and flaky firm texture. The evening's presentation felt a shade fishy though it was well poached and its firm texture gave good body to the soup. It had good bounce on the flesh, perfectly cooked. The hint of curry powder in the soup gave it a slight fiery cumin style spritz which brought out a little pepper spark on the Meursault finish. 

Grilled Antlantic Brill and Langoustine with Zucchini and Butternut Squash Bisque

The Langoustine felt a bit off - that slight over-firmness you can sometimes get if the thing has spent time in the cooler. Or maybe a bit too long in the soup - sorry, Bisque. Having said all this, there was nothing left in the bowl. Even the Texas Ranger ate some and he normally doesn't let a fish flake past his teeth. Had to call for more bread to sup up the soup. Bisque. Whatever.

Roasted Quail with Endive, Dates and Juniper

The Roasted Quail was gamey, meat well smoked and hung like a Scots Guard. We think we coined the new word "quail-ey" - the thing definitely tasted of quail in a way that overpowered everything around it. That unique oily meat that is quail yet a bit overhung. Or maybe hung over. Or William Hung. The Endive gave a nice vegetal spark to nicely counterpoint the sweet date sauce. The resulting ensemble was rich, firm and full of feel and bounce. Very macho. 

2008 Domaine Harmond Geoffroy Gevrey
Chambertin 1er Cru "Les Perrieres"

Being paired with the Gevrey Chambertin made sense - nothing too overpowering that would fight with the food. Yet something with enough character that would stand on its own. The 2008 GV proved perfect with its beautiful nose of soft cherry and rose petal perfume. Clean and lean cut in the mouth, and a fritzy spritzy crack on the tonsils. Good balance, feel and a fine peppery finish on a beautifully textured and structured wine. Very feminine, and a real charmer, the one you would introduce to mother. Or Quail-ey quail. It tamed the gaminess a treat whilst the date sauce nipped the pepper for a sweet fire on the tongue. Very good pairing. 

For some reason, the juniper leaf had not been consumed with the dish. Having learned at a recent sake tasting that you can eat such things with drink, I duly ate the leaf and sipped the GV. It gave off a cute gin kick to illuminate a different dimension to the Pinot. I feel one must always be reasonably adventurous and try the unconventional - if we stick to what has always been tried and done then nothing new is ever learnt. Yes.

Having said this, leaving some GV to try with the beef was a mistake - it killed the wine and gave it an acid and steel tart finish. Bleachhhh....  Lesson learnt. Again.

2007 Chateau Malescot St-Exupery

The 2007 Chateau Malescot St Exupery Margaux had been decanted for something just over an hour, since Sommelier Yuhei felt that not a lot of time was needed for it to open out and any much longer would have seen the fruit evaporate too much. For me, it still needed time in the decanter. In the glass, it was way way not open and still as tight as a Scotsman's pocket. Notwithstanding, a good swirl put paid to much of the lean tightness to reveal a classic Bordeaux - pepper nose followed by a full mouth of cassis, toffee and chocolate and prominent crunchy tannins on the finish. 

I liked but Lenglui didn't quite. The balance was not quite there at first, and it felt a bit toasted with lots of burnt oak. But it grew. The tannins evened out in the decanter and glass though the fruit did fade quite quickly. Not bad. Had better. 

Was a bit of a wait for the beef, but it was worth it. Totally excellent and the absolute business. A hunk of tender meat of brilliantly smooth texture which melted in a firm clean bite. The Jus was also perfect, full of taste without overpowering the meat. Back of the Net Score for the Angus, and yet further evidence that chef is definitely getting meat, both in preparation and selection. The quality on the meat tonight was superb. Clearly the Soleil has got a good supplier somewhere. Can't remember the vegetables, but the Beef seared the memory. Definitely go back for this. 

Pan Seared Black Angus Beef Tenderloin with Glazed Vegetables and Red Wine Sauce

Match-wise, the meat cut the tannins of the Margaux, giving a sweet cherryade note to the wine. But not much else for me. On paper, a good choice given the Cabernet Sauvignon dominance in Margaux, which somehow didn't quite work in the practice. Both food and wine were individually brilliant to good, but the match was only so so. Felt like the wine needed a bit more heft and body to stand up to the beef. Not bad, but not brilliant. So it goes. 

2010 Chateau d'Anna

The 2010 Chateau d'Anna Sauternes was a standard long nose of apricot, with loads of honey and ripe peach. Surprisingly clean on the finish, with no feeling of cack in the throat like many of the dessert wines tend to leave. This one had a lovely balance of sugar, fruit, good crispy acid and honey with a hint of cinnamon. Lovely wine. Not normally a fan of desserts but this was very, very nice. 

I had yet to understand why some restaurants like to pair chocolate with dessert wine. The goo of the cacao and the syrup of the wine normally combine to leave the mouth feeling like sweet mud which only coffee can properly clean. But tonight would bring revelations.

On its own, the dessert was a stunner. A lovely melange of fruits, flowers, and cold textures topped off with crunchy crumble flakes of sugar cake and chocolate. The Chocolate was total wow - pure cacao taste without any milky sweetness - all dark cocoa and firm rich gateaux butter feel. The Banana Sorbet was brilliant with the mango, with the totality of the combo giving a fierce chilled acid gunky coat on the mouth. This was where the Sauternes came in and somehow sweetly and deftly washed away the lot, leaving the mouth in some state of heavenly paralysis. It left me feeling like the man in Coleridge's "Xanadu" who had just dined on honeydew and drunk the milk of paradise. O perfecto. It doesn't get much better.

Valrhona Guanaja Chocolate Cremeux with Caramelised Mango and roasted Banana Sorbet

Yet another score to Soleil. I am feeling maybe we have overdone the place for now, and probably need to try pastures new. But this year with them has been little short of brilliant. The staff, the food, the parties and the memories. Long may they continue and let us all look forward to celebrating the Second Anniversary together!!

Just as a bit of a preachy rant postscript, I feel the need always to be grateful that we are blessed with those faculties which allow us to appreciate and enjoy all this food and wine nonsense. And the werewithal. I try to be thankful for every day and every occasion when we can join with our friends around a table to enjoy good food and wine. Because, God help us, this Good Life could all end tomorrow. Chance and circumstance can change lives in a second, both for good and bad.

I recently got reminded of this when a close friend got a recurrence of something life threatening and shitluck and which I will help him to fight the sucker. Compare this to another acquaintance who recently survived a life threatening liver problem only to remain the same cantankerous nasty piece of work he always has been. Does little but grumble and bitch and make life miserable for those around him. Some people never learn, eh?

Hmmm…   the world feels a bit strange and off whack at the moment - weak economies, belligerence in East Europe and China, the increase in religious bigotry everywhere. The Devil always makes work for idle hands, and there are a lot of those in this overpopulated world of ours at present. Belt up, folks, could be a bumpy ride ahead.

Menu

First Course

Butter Poached Lobster with Couscous Salad, Tomatoes and Cucumber

NV Champagne Tribaut Originale

Second Course

Grilled Antlantic Brill and Langoustine with Zucchini and Butternut Squash Bisque

2011 Domaine Henri Darnat Meursault "Clos du Domaine"

Third Course

Roasted Quail with Endive, Dates and Juniper

2008 Domaine Harmond Geoffroy Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru "Les Perrieres"

Main Course

Pan Seared Black Angus Beef Tenderloin with Glazed Vegetables and Red Wine Sauce

2007 Chateau Malescot St-Exupery

Dessert

Valrhona Guanaja Chocolate Cremeux with Caramelised Mango and roasted Banana Sorbet

2010 Chateau d'Anna

RM300 ++

Chateau Fieuzal at the Ribs - good, hearty fare

Ribs interior

Another chance to chug on the Chateau Fieuzal wines being offered at a dinner by Yin-How at the Ribs by Vintry could not be passed up. Grand Cru wines and winemakers don't often come to this part of the world and it is a truth universally acknowledged that consumption of the wines that they bring must be maximised. Yes. Must get in before others sup them up. Dog eat dog in the world of food and wine. Or maybe that should be dog drink dog...

As said elsewhere, we had previously had the great pleasure of winemaker Stephen Carrier's hospitality at the Chateau during a trip to Bordeaux in April 2013 and it was one of the most memorable evenings of my life. The food had been catered into the vineyard and we were all sat around a large slab of wood that was a table where the food and the wines kept coming and flowing. Very few photos of the night, but the blind tasting we enjoyed was magical. If all we do in this life is make memories for some God, I hope he or she enjoyed that one. For darned sure, I did.

Our recent IWFS dinner with the Fieuzal wines had perhaps too many people for comfort, but one could not refuse the members the opportunity to sup on the Grand Crus. Well, maybe you could but you'd get whacked for it. The hope was that this one at the Ribs would be a bit more cosy. It was, though for some reason the atmosphere didn't quite develop into something like the memory of drinking the man's wine in his own cellar. There you go. Some memories are just too wonderful.

Some Pizza for you?

Dropped off the Lenglui and parked up the road apiece. Got welcomed on arrival with a belated glass of the 2008 which, as with the Soleil Dinner of two nights previous, was being offered as the aperitif. A blend of Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc and witn six years in the bottle gave this one a definite rich creamy mellow soft fruit and burgundy feel and was a most pleasant partner to the Foie Gras canapes, cheesy kebab bites and squares of pizza that were coming around. Any remaining tart in the wine was well softened by the proteins in the food.   

Not so many familiar faces at this one, though a couple of the IWFS were in attendance and some members of our Pork Luck Club. We were to be seated with the Doc and my old mucker David. Texas and the FDQ were also on our table. FDQ spent most of the night as usual taking photos of all and sundry and uploading them for the Facebook Universe to see and presumably like. Okay, I guess. Doesn't make for stimulating company at the dinner table though. 

We got sat and Stephen got introduced by Yin-How. He talked a bit about Fieuzal being owned by an Irish couple and the methods used in making his creations. Never knew he was born and raised in a Champagne vineyard. There you go. 

Ribs owner Wong Yin-How and Chateau Fieuzal winemaker Stephen Carrier

Stephen shared that Château de Fieuzal is in the Pessac-Léognan appellation south of Bordeaux city and is ranked in the Premiers Crus in the AOC Classification of Graves (apparently 1953 and 1959, according to Wikipedia). Wikipedia also says de Fieuzal was originally the property of the La Rochefoucauld family, it became known for its wine under the management of one Erik Bocké of Sweden. The winecellarinsider says the Chateau was named after one of the earlier owners who managed the estate in the early 1800s and subsequently owned by the Griffon family who had connections to Pope Léon XIII in Bordeaux and got called on to stock the cellars of the Vatican. Also that it was once in the portfolio of the Ricard family. All agree that in 2001, Château de Fieuzal was acquired by Lochlann Quinn, the Irish entrepreneur and philanthropist. 

Enjoy my wines!!!

The vineyard area consists of 39 hectares of red vines (60% Cabernet Sauvignon with 33% Merlot, 4.5% Cabernet Franc and 2.5% Petit Verdot) and 9 hectares of white (50% Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc respectively). Total annual production is 13,000 cases of red wine and 4,000 of dry white. 

With a wish for Bon Appetit and to enjoy the wines, the 2011 Blanc got served. A lot more intense than the rounded 2008, giving off grass and gooseberry in quite a youthful and nicely exuberant mouthful. 

First out was the Cod Bouillinade, or Cod baked in a thick and rich saffron and seafood jus. The broth was lovely - herby with dill and parsley and lemon with loads of butter and potato chunks. And most generous with the chunks of cod swimming in the jus. This totally rocked and the Broth supercharged the 2011's finish, giving a crisp flinty graze on the throat and tongue. The 2008 was more fish friendly, though the cod somewhat overwhelmed the crisp burgundy apple for my taste. 

Cod Bouillinade Cod baked in a thick and rich saffron and seafood jus

Yin-How was following the same wine order that he had decided for the previous Soleil dinner, with the 2005 Rouge being presented first. 

Nearly ten years in bottle and supposedly a stellar year for Bordeaux, my notes say that the 2005 was… okay. Clearly a Bordeaux and with a big nose of berries and cassis, this one felt a bit austere and somewhat steely. Which was odd since we know Stephen gives it good time in oak at the vineyard. Good structure across fruit, tannin and alcohol, it just seemed to lack a little… character. Felt like it needed a bit of life or vim to elevate it into something really memorable.

And yet this wine was the star of the night at the Soleil two nights previous. There should have been no difference - same wine, same temperature, though the red wines at the Soleil were decanted as memory serves. I can't remember if there were decanters at the Ribs, and the photos don't show anything. The only other difference was the ambience and the people - Soleil ambience is a shade more warm with earth tones whereas the Ribs is somewhat more rustic with wine racks and brick and white walls. It is said that decanting and ambience impacts the experience of the wine and food - certainly seemed to do so tonight.

The 2005 was being paired with the Terrine of Pork with duck liver and rocket salad with a sherry balsamic reduction. The presentation was delightful, with flowers and dabs of sauce across the plate. "Strolling in the garden of food," was how David put it. Bastard. Wish I'd said it. Good turn of phrase has our David.

Terrine of Pork with duck liver, and rocket salad with a sherry balsamic reduction

In taste and texture, the Terrine was reminiscent of Cornish Pasties we would get years ago from Cardiff Central Market, though way more refined. All lovely crumble pastry but with a crusty butter bite and encasing smooth as silk lean meat and fat bound with egg. The meat had a pulled pork feel about it, which just melted in the mouth. Total result. Total Yum. Love it when food takes me back to the tastes of my childhood.

Learning from previous eating and drinking emperience, I had reserved a little of the 2008 and 2011 Whites left to try with the pork. The 2008 got a bit overwhelmed whilst the 2011 fared slightly better with the terrine taming the slight frisky finish. But they did not really pair with the food. This Bordeaux white style didn't seem to fare so well with the lean meat, which is not unfair given the varietals. The 2005 Rouge went quite nicely though it didn't really feel like a total match. Bordeaux seems to benefit better when paired with poultry and beef, whereas pork increasingly seems to need Alsatian white or Pinot grape based wine to amplify the juices and firm meat. Or so my tastes and palate seem to be moving toward. But it was a fair attempt by the 2005. And it is just so, so good to drink darned good Bordeaux wine, whatever the food.  

Both the 2009 and 2010 Rouge came out at the same time to get paired with the Duck and Pork Sausage Cassoulet stewed with garden vegetables and white beans. 

The 2009 was exactly the same as Soleil, all big berries and big nose of brambles and plum. Massive full body, a lovely chugging wine but with enough meat and firmness to satisfy. Bold crisp tannins, large alcohol content of 14%.

Equally, the 2010 felt as strangely ordinary as it did on the previous occasion. Minimal fruit and liquorice nose, lean body, bit austere with firm tannins. Interesting to see the difference between the years and the vintages - big 2009 and tight 2010. A supposedly stellar year for Bordeaux, but couldn't quite see too long a life here - not too much big fruit to carry it through, compared to the 2009 which has fruit, tannin and alcohol in abundance. Though perhaps the tannins are not as much in evidence in the 2009 as they are with the 2010. But we'll see. The beauty of wine is its ability to surprise on the upside, and when it does the delight is so sublime. Still, the 2009 feels a lot longer in the bottle, with its big fruit and even tannins. The 2009 was our buy for the night, along with the 2011 Blanc.

Toru-san and, er, Mrs Toru-san

On first blush, the Cassoulet felt a bit thin and in need of some ooomph. It was full in content terms - lots of meat and potatoes - but maybe just a bit low in body. Kind of like an Irish Stew without cojones. Not knowing much about Cassoulet, I assumed that this was the standard style. But apparently not -  someone on the table asserted that it should indeed be thicker and that what was in the bowl was not a Cassoulet. This observation was not made sotto voce and fortune would have it that it was made just as the room went quiet for Stephen to speak. Which meant that the whole assembled group of foodies and wineheads heard it and equally exactly who said it. Oops. But no-one said anything - too polite to comment, I guess. Well, no-one except me. I said to the individual "Well, I guess we all heard that." Which also happened to be loud enough for everyone to hear, so they would know precisely where the comment came from. I have a mean streak which enjoys an occasional airing. Bad man. 

Duck and Pork Sausage Cassoulet stewed with garden vegetables and white beans

But on second blush the delightful and delicate broth of rosemary and fennel started to shine and this herb quality helped to soften the austerity of the 2010. Here the wine showed its class - structure, deftness, not quite sleek but a good firm finish without being robust. The duck did the same, letting notes of dark forest fruit and plum come out in the wine. The 2009 just whacked everything with its massive fruit and mouth and didn't really do much for the dish, though as a wine it was big, bold and beautiful. Like Brigitte Bardot or Pamela Anderson with a baseball bat. Both the Cassoulet and the 2010 grew on me, though Lenglui found the 2009 more to her taste and preference. So it goes. The lack of starch and abundance of fresh ingredients and deft touch of the salt shaker in the Cassoulet suggested that chef likes to let the food do the talking. Very tasty indeed. 

Some on the table felt that to have cut the sausage into slices was a mistake since it released too much oil into the broth. Others felt they would have reduced the broth more to make the taste more intense. Well, and maybe. There was indeed oil in the broth and the texture was not "brothy" in the rich and sloppy sense of the word. But I thought it was lovely. Chef clearly had his reasons for his choices and for me they worked well. 

Dessert was very rich. Date, cake and cognac gave a gagging syrup mouth nicely tamed by the ice cream and firmed up with the nuts. Lush, swish and firm, not unlike a Christmas pudding in body, content and texture. Ho Ho Ho indeed.

Cognac Spheres covered in crushed almonds and drizzled with coffee sauce, served with Earl Grey ice-cream

In all, a very good night. Generous with the pourings, and good matches of well tasty food and darling Bordeaux wines. It did revive a memory of our Bordeaux group getting dropped off at the Chateau Fieuzal from the bus and enjoying the cool evening in the grounds of the Chateau whilst the caterers got their act together inside. Which was good - memory is all we have sometimes, and some of us get to lose it way too soon so best to totally enjoy it whilst we have it.  Didn't get much of a chance to chat with Stephen since everyone was very eager to get a piece of him. He looked a lot less stressed than he seemed two nights previous, so the jetlag presumption seemed correct. It was very good company being opposite David for the night, though I think the Doc was a bit miffed with FDQ being opposite him and  absorbed with the camera and phone all evening. As said, FDQ not really offering much in the way of conversation. Other than the Cassoulet observation. Think he enjoyed the wines, though. For darn sure, I did. Again. Cheers!!

A well excellent evening!

CHATEAU FIEUZAL WINE DINNER 

2nd AUGUST 2014, 7.30PM

Trio of Canapes 

Chateau Fieuzal Blanc 2011

Cod Bouillinade Cod baked in a thick and rich saffron and seafood jus

Chateau Fieuzal Blanc 2008

Terrine of Pork with duck liver, and rocket salad with a sherry balsamic reduction

Chateau Fieuzal Rouge 2005

Duck and Pork Sausage Cassoulet stewed with garden vegetables and white beans

Chateau Fieuzal Rouge 2009 

Chateau Fieuzal Rouge 2010

Cognac Spheres covered in crushed almonds and drizzled with coffee sauce, served with Earl Grey ice-cream

Chateau Fieuzal at Soleil - tres magnifique!!

Assembly

JULY 31 2014 - This was one of those unmissable IWFS functions - Soleil's excellent European style food being paired with Grand Cru Classe Bordeaux wine. And from a vineyard we had visited during our April 2013 IWFS trip to the region. And at the silly price of RM298 - no wonder all the original 40 places got snapped within a day. In the end the number topped out at 58 which raised some concern as to whether the place could cope. It did. Kudos to the staff and Yuhei and Effandie for marshalling their troops and Chef Evert for getting the food out on time and generally to everyone's satisfaction. 

Instruction was for jackets and medallions which I think most remembered - no one got pulled up about it. Though not sure anyone was taking too much notice. Later in the evening, one of the old members started to fondly reminiscing about when there was more fun and less formality - seems all the stiff back and shirt ideas came in when the IWFS KL got formalised, though whether it was a cause or not is difficult to gauge. Ultimately it is people who decide the tone of these things.

All those in favour...

It had been decided to hold an EGM to consider whether Joint Members should be permitted to exist in the KL branch. This had all come about thanks to resolutions being passed at the World Council level to allow premiums to be charged for non members accompanying members to international events. One had been charged for the upcoming Taiwan bunfight and the rumour was of a threat to impose a horrendous premium for the upcoming in Melbourne in 2015. Joint members was perceived as a way around paying such a premium whereby a spouse became a joint member of the branch and thus the IWFS and the premium payable gets marginalized. It also has the effect of instantly doubling membership at half the member price since joint members apparently enjoy all IWFS member rights and privileges, which no-one seems to have properly addressed or considered to my mind. Not that it seems to have mattered. Almost unanimously it got passed. Everyone got a free glass of wine for attending. O how cheaply the vote can sometimes get bought…

Dr Jag and Lenglui - oooh la la...

There was a downside - the meeting was rapidly concluded which forced us all to sit for about twenty minutes to let the kitchen catch up. And with no wine to slake the thirst which had been whetted at the meeting! Everyone was desperate. We had to talk to each other whilst sober. But time passed quickly and out came the same booze. The aperitif wine doubled as the first wine with the meal and went going down a treat. Though a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon, the Fieuzal 2008 Blanc had a veritable burgundian feel about it. It was all toasted toffee apple and Christmas dates in honey and roaring fireplace in winter. Full and rich in the mouth, not quite opulent but aged enough to get a good hint of it. Lush and luscious. 

For the dinner we were being separated into upstairs and downstairs given the 57 that had been crowbarred into the Soleil. The tables all had names associated with Bordeaux. We were upstairs on Table Leognan with a few old friends. Dr Jag came late and ceremonially "broke thirst" and we were off. The perception was that all the senior committee had been designated to sit downstairs with the winemaker in the downstairs and so we in the upstairs got labelled as the outcasts (or upcasts as it subsequently became). So it goes. At least we didn't feel the need to be on best behaviour.

Squid and Shellfish in Escabeche

First out was the Squid and Shellfish in Escabeche which proved a lovely lemongrass and herb bite. The combo of cockles and squid felt a bit squidgy, but the broth was a seaside delight of salt and oil sea breeze scented with chive and rocket. The oyster with a dab of avocado puree worked nicely as a chew and slurp, and what felt like a slap of wasabi in the avocado puree was a nice surprise. The salt naturally made one want to drink (which we did) and the staff more than made up for the enforced delay with their generosity in the pourings. Match-wise the 2008 did well, though lacked that little tinge of acidity that might have set the seafood off a shade better. No complaints, though - a lovely wine paired with a well tasty dish.

Fennel and Apple Salad with Smoked Monkfish and Grapefruit Dressing

Second out was the Smoked Monkfish which, though indeed smoked, felt a shade over-firm and more ceviche in texture than smoked. As if the grapefruit dressing had leached out the remaining oil and diminished the overall balance in the flakes. Simple presentation of the fish slices on the apple salad bed with a dash of oil across the top. Nicely light crunch on the finely chopped apple salad and the fennel lent a liquorice undertone to the ensemble. I tried my neighbours fennel on its own with the wine and got a cute little pinch on the inside of the cheek for my trouble. Must try these things.

The dish was being paired with the 2011 Fieuzal Blanc which was way more lively than its older sibling. Full in the mouth and lively on the throat, this was a bright and breezy drinker made for chugging and cheering rather than the more contemplative 2008. For me, the 2011 would have been better if paired with the first dish to lend the necessary acidity and crispness demanded by shellfish. Equally, the Monkfish was a far better result when paired with the rich and buttery 2008 Blanc. The only reasons I can speculate on having the 2008 first are a) there was a lot more of it and b) better to continue with the same wine as the aperitif rather than go back to it after the 2011. So it goes. Everyone liked the 2011. 

Braised Duck and Crispy Veal Sweetbread with Mushrooms and Puff Pastry

Third out was the Braised Duck and Crispy Veal Sweetbread with Mushrooms and Puff Pastry. This was one of those dishes where the sum was better than the parts, though some of the parts were outstanding. The veal and the puff pastry were saltily magnificent and with the soft oily duck made for a textural breathtaker. Belter of a dish. Seeing the 2005 come out ahead of the younger Fieuzal reds was a bit surprising, though again one must presume there were reasons. The more youthful tannins in the later presentations would certainly have fought with the duck, and the 2005 was sufficiently lean and structured to pair well with pretty much any dish. Not a stellar pairing, but so nice to drink Bordeaux Grand Cru Classe wine here in KL. As said, lean and structured but with fair fruit and silky finish - life is good, man. 

left to right: IWFS KL President Dr Rajan, Chateau Fieuzal winemaker Stephen Carrier and
IWFS KL Secretary Wong Yin-How

Around this point, Yin How brought winemaker Stephen Carrier upstairs to say hello. Stephen looked different from the man I remember from our visit to Chateau Fieuzal in April 2013. Seemed like he had put on some weight, somehow got grey hair, and came across as less ebullient and lively. Though maybe he was just jetlagged. Certainly at a subsequent Chateau Fieuzal dinner at the Ribs a couple of days later, he was more the man I remember. The added weight seems to suit him - makes him look more the archetypal burly French winemaker and bon viveur and son of the soil. Champagne soil, too.

Lamb Eye of Short Loin with Pistachio Crumble, Vegetable Ratatouille and Eggplant Puree

The 2009 and 2010 came out together to pair with the choices of main dishes. I had the lamb whilst Lenglui had the beef. The lamb medallions were nicely presented on the plate, but texturally was a bit overfirm and somewhat dry to my taste. Other members asserted that their lamb was as tender as a teenage dream. Maybe mine had been waiting a bit too long somewhere. Maybe I am more used to lamb on the rack rather than the loin. The combo with the pistachio and puree was a cracker of nut crunch and light cream though I got a hint of red pepper and capsicum which did its usual repeat business. 

Pan Seared Black Angus Beef Tenderloin with Glazed Vegetables and Sarawak Pepper Sauce

Had a taste of the beef which was also firm, though more tender than my lamb. Interesting jus with the Sarawak pepper lending a sweet tea taste to the meat that complemented rather than overpowered. Very nice. Didn't get to try the fish. 

Serena Hiu and YC Yap

The wines were complete opposites in the way they presented themselves. The 2009 was massive fruit and big tannins though with enough alcohol to balance them out. This was a real Bordeaux, bold and sassy and well in your face. The 2010 was way more restrained and quite austere, with thinnish fruit and more elegance in its structure though the tannins were hugely prominent. Clearly being drunk far ahead of its time, though not sure how much time will be available. 

Paul and Ria Thomas

Whilst the brassy 2009 proved the crowd favourite, the better food red wine on the night was the 2005. It was classic with the beef and cut the firm lamb proteins and fats well enough to make for a pleasant pairing. Only downside was that the later red servings felt a tad stingy. Not so much that it made a difference - still got that muzzy morning after head that makes you want to bang it on the desk to clear the fog and wake up the brain.  Maybe it is a perspective thing that changes as one gets more inebriated - the volumes are actually the same, just that they feel less. But the white certainly felt more generous in the pourings.

Dr Stephen Hall, Dr Lee Su Kim and Ria Thomas

With only dessert to come, Lenglui and I decided to head downstairs to say hello to friends. Didn't get too far because their mains were just coming to the tables. Guess the kitchen had staggered the preparation so that upstairs got theirs together and downstairs had a bit more of a wait. Made sense. Good pragmatic way to cope with large numbers. Kudos. Our hails and hellos got cut short. 

Repairing back upstairs, we got greeted with demands for songs to be sung, so I was able to get my Tom Jones on. It's a great song to get people raucous and in a rabble rousing mood. Lenglui did her rapturously received New York New York and a request for me to do Proud Mary which for some reason proved a total home run. Final choice of YMCA was also a result, though it seemed a bit of an odd choice for IWFS members to request. There you go - never really know people, do we?

Dark Chocolate Cremeux with Caramel Banana Ice Cream

Dessert was a lovely combo of rich and firm Chocolate and the match with the Banana Ice Cream ended the night on a cool creamy chocolate note. The berries gave a rasping acid burn on the tongue which the ice cream cooled and the chocolate soothed. Perfecto. 

In all, it was a darn good drink we all had. As said, quite generous with the white, the red felt a teeny bit stingy, though not so as one could complain. Not at these prices. Great kudos to both restaurant and organiser Yin How. Excellent evening indeed. 

The Menu

First Course

Squid and Shellfish in Escabeche

2008 Fieuzal Blanc

Second Course

Fennel and Apple Salad with Smoked Monkfish and Grapefruit Dressing

2011 Fieuzal Blanc

Third Course

Braised Duck and Crispy Veal  Sweetbread with Mushrooms and Puff Pastry

2005 Fieuzal Rouge

Main Course

Pan fried Atlantic Cod with Zucchini and Mussels in Saffron Broth

OR

Lamb Eye of Short Loin with Pistachio Crumble, Vegetable Ratatouille and Eggplant Puree

OR

Pan Seared Black Angus Beef Tenderloin with Glazed Vegetables and Sarawak Pepper Sauce

2009 Fieuzal Rouge

2010 Fieuzal Rouge

Dessert

Dark Chocolate Cremeux with Caramel Banana Ice Cream

The Wines (Makers Notes)

2008 Fieuzal Blanc 

Straw-green with golden highlights. Rich apricot and peach aromas are complemented by sweet caramel and waxy nuances. Rich and plump in the mouth, with flavors of caramel-coated candy apple, ripe tropical fruits and a semillon-typical waxy quality. This round, full-bodied wine leaves a downright glycerol mouthfeel and enticing lingering notes of citrus fruits and herbs. (Tanzer 88-91, Parker 90)

2011 Fieuzal Blanc 

Bright, pale straw.  Complex aromas of white peach, vanilla and white flowers on the enticing nose.  Bright and fresh on the palate, with juicy acidity lifting the ripe citrus and mineral flavors.  The finish is long and pure, with rising but noble tannins.  A very refined white wine. (Tanzer 90-93, Parker 89)

2005 Fieuzal Rouge 

Smoke, black truffles, crushed rock, and leafy notes combined with earth, fresh mushrooms, and cassis result in a complex set of aromatics for the dark ruby/purple-colored 2005 Fieuzal. Medium-bodied with crisp acidity and high tannin, this serious wine is closed, but promising. (Tanzer 88, Parker 90)

2009 Fieuzal Rouge 

A terrific, classic Graves with notes of subtle smoke, black raspberries, black currants, graphite and unsmoked cigar tobacco, this full-bodied, deep, concentrated de Fieuzal is far more generous and deep than most vintages of the past. There is also a wonderful freshness and length to this somewhat oversized de Fieuzal while it still maintains its elegance and class. (Tanzer 92, Parker 92)

2010 Fieuzal Rouge 

Good deep ruby-red.  Dark berries and spicy, cedary oak dominate the nose.  Supple and broad but a bit less creamy in the early going than is normal for this wine.  Sexy, soil-driven flavors of plum, tobacco, cigar box and spices show good energy.  Firm tannins clamp down on the finish without introducing any dryness.  A rather classically styled Fieuzal with good mid-term aging potential. (Tanzer 91, Parker 90)