Chateau Fieuzal at the Ribs - good, hearty fare

Ribs interior

Another chance to chug on the Chateau Fieuzal wines being offered at a dinner by Yin-How at the Ribs by Vintry could not be passed up. Grand Cru wines and winemakers don't often come to this part of the world and it is a truth universally acknowledged that consumption of the wines that they bring must be maximised. Yes. Must get in before others sup them up. Dog eat dog in the world of food and wine. Or maybe that should be dog drink dog...

As said elsewhere, we had previously had the great pleasure of winemaker Stephen Carrier's hospitality at the Chateau during a trip to Bordeaux in April 2013 and it was one of the most memorable evenings of my life. The food had been catered into the vineyard and we were all sat around a large slab of wood that was a table where the food and the wines kept coming and flowing. Very few photos of the night, but the blind tasting we enjoyed was magical. If all we do in this life is make memories for some God, I hope he or she enjoyed that one. For darned sure, I did.

Our recent IWFS dinner with the Fieuzal wines had perhaps too many people for comfort, but one could not refuse the members the opportunity to sup on the Grand Crus. Well, maybe you could but you'd get whacked for it. The hope was that this one at the Ribs would be a bit more cosy. It was, though for some reason the atmosphere didn't quite develop into something like the memory of drinking the man's wine in his own cellar. There you go. Some memories are just too wonderful.

Some Pizza for you?

Dropped off the Lenglui and parked up the road apiece. Got welcomed on arrival with a belated glass of the 2008 which, as with the Soleil Dinner of two nights previous, was being offered as the aperitif. A blend of Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc and witn six years in the bottle gave this one a definite rich creamy mellow soft fruit and burgundy feel and was a most pleasant partner to the Foie Gras canapes, cheesy kebab bites and squares of pizza that were coming around. Any remaining tart in the wine was well softened by the proteins in the food.   

Not so many familiar faces at this one, though a couple of the IWFS were in attendance and some members of our Pork Luck Club. We were to be seated with the Doc and my old mucker David. Texas and the FDQ were also on our table. FDQ spent most of the night as usual taking photos of all and sundry and uploading them for the Facebook Universe to see and presumably like. Okay, I guess. Doesn't make for stimulating company at the dinner table though. 

We got sat and Stephen got introduced by Yin-How. He talked a bit about Fieuzal being owned by an Irish couple and the methods used in making his creations. Never knew he was born and raised in a Champagne vineyard. There you go. 

Ribs owner Wong Yin-How and Chateau Fieuzal winemaker Stephen Carrier

Stephen shared that Château de Fieuzal is in the Pessac-Léognan appellation south of Bordeaux city and is ranked in the Premiers Crus in the AOC Classification of Graves (apparently 1953 and 1959, according to Wikipedia). Wikipedia also says de Fieuzal was originally the property of the La Rochefoucauld family, it became known for its wine under the management of one Erik Bocké of Sweden. The winecellarinsider says the Chateau was named after one of the earlier owners who managed the estate in the early 1800s and subsequently owned by the Griffon family who had connections to Pope Léon XIII in Bordeaux and got called on to stock the cellars of the Vatican. Also that it was once in the portfolio of the Ricard family. All agree that in 2001, Château de Fieuzal was acquired by Lochlann Quinn, the Irish entrepreneur and philanthropist. 

Enjoy my wines!!!

The vineyard area consists of 39 hectares of red vines (60% Cabernet Sauvignon with 33% Merlot, 4.5% Cabernet Franc and 2.5% Petit Verdot) and 9 hectares of white (50% Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc respectively). Total annual production is 13,000 cases of red wine and 4,000 of dry white. 

With a wish for Bon Appetit and to enjoy the wines, the 2011 Blanc got served. A lot more intense than the rounded 2008, giving off grass and gooseberry in quite a youthful and nicely exuberant mouthful. 

First out was the Cod Bouillinade, or Cod baked in a thick and rich saffron and seafood jus. The broth was lovely - herby with dill and parsley and lemon with loads of butter and potato chunks. And most generous with the chunks of cod swimming in the jus. This totally rocked and the Broth supercharged the 2011's finish, giving a crisp flinty graze on the throat and tongue. The 2008 was more fish friendly, though the cod somewhat overwhelmed the crisp burgundy apple for my taste. 

Cod Bouillinade Cod baked in a thick and rich saffron and seafood jus

Yin-How was following the same wine order that he had decided for the previous Soleil dinner, with the 2005 Rouge being presented first. 

Nearly ten years in bottle and supposedly a stellar year for Bordeaux, my notes say that the 2005 was… okay. Clearly a Bordeaux and with a big nose of berries and cassis, this one felt a bit austere and somewhat steely. Which was odd since we know Stephen gives it good time in oak at the vineyard. Good structure across fruit, tannin and alcohol, it just seemed to lack a little… character. Felt like it needed a bit of life or vim to elevate it into something really memorable.

And yet this wine was the star of the night at the Soleil two nights previous. There should have been no difference - same wine, same temperature, though the red wines at the Soleil were decanted as memory serves. I can't remember if there were decanters at the Ribs, and the photos don't show anything. The only other difference was the ambience and the people - Soleil ambience is a shade more warm with earth tones whereas the Ribs is somewhat more rustic with wine racks and brick and white walls. It is said that decanting and ambience impacts the experience of the wine and food - certainly seemed to do so tonight.

The 2005 was being paired with the Terrine of Pork with duck liver and rocket salad with a sherry balsamic reduction. The presentation was delightful, with flowers and dabs of sauce across the plate. "Strolling in the garden of food," was how David put it. Bastard. Wish I'd said it. Good turn of phrase has our David.

Terrine of Pork with duck liver, and rocket salad with a sherry balsamic reduction

In taste and texture, the Terrine was reminiscent of Cornish Pasties we would get years ago from Cardiff Central Market, though way more refined. All lovely crumble pastry but with a crusty butter bite and encasing smooth as silk lean meat and fat bound with egg. The meat had a pulled pork feel about it, which just melted in the mouth. Total result. Total Yum. Love it when food takes me back to the tastes of my childhood.

Learning from previous eating and drinking emperience, I had reserved a little of the 2008 and 2011 Whites left to try with the pork. The 2008 got a bit overwhelmed whilst the 2011 fared slightly better with the terrine taming the slight frisky finish. But they did not really pair with the food. This Bordeaux white style didn't seem to fare so well with the lean meat, which is not unfair given the varietals. The 2005 Rouge went quite nicely though it didn't really feel like a total match. Bordeaux seems to benefit better when paired with poultry and beef, whereas pork increasingly seems to need Alsatian white or Pinot grape based wine to amplify the juices and firm meat. Or so my tastes and palate seem to be moving toward. But it was a fair attempt by the 2005. And it is just so, so good to drink darned good Bordeaux wine, whatever the food.  

Both the 2009 and 2010 Rouge came out at the same time to get paired with the Duck and Pork Sausage Cassoulet stewed with garden vegetables and white beans. 

The 2009 was exactly the same as Soleil, all big berries and big nose of brambles and plum. Massive full body, a lovely chugging wine but with enough meat and firmness to satisfy. Bold crisp tannins, large alcohol content of 14%.

Equally, the 2010 felt as strangely ordinary as it did on the previous occasion. Minimal fruit and liquorice nose, lean body, bit austere with firm tannins. Interesting to see the difference between the years and the vintages - big 2009 and tight 2010. A supposedly stellar year for Bordeaux, but couldn't quite see too long a life here - not too much big fruit to carry it through, compared to the 2009 which has fruit, tannin and alcohol in abundance. Though perhaps the tannins are not as much in evidence in the 2009 as they are with the 2010. But we'll see. The beauty of wine is its ability to surprise on the upside, and when it does the delight is so sublime. Still, the 2009 feels a lot longer in the bottle, with its big fruit and even tannins. The 2009 was our buy for the night, along with the 2011 Blanc.

Toru-san and, er, Mrs Toru-san

On first blush, the Cassoulet felt a bit thin and in need of some ooomph. It was full in content terms - lots of meat and potatoes - but maybe just a bit low in body. Kind of like an Irish Stew without cojones. Not knowing much about Cassoulet, I assumed that this was the standard style. But apparently not -  someone on the table asserted that it should indeed be thicker and that what was in the bowl was not a Cassoulet. This observation was not made sotto voce and fortune would have it that it was made just as the room went quiet for Stephen to speak. Which meant that the whole assembled group of foodies and wineheads heard it and equally exactly who said it. Oops. But no-one said anything - too polite to comment, I guess. Well, no-one except me. I said to the individual "Well, I guess we all heard that." Which also happened to be loud enough for everyone to hear, so they would know precisely where the comment came from. I have a mean streak which enjoys an occasional airing. Bad man. 

Duck and Pork Sausage Cassoulet stewed with garden vegetables and white beans

But on second blush the delightful and delicate broth of rosemary and fennel started to shine and this herb quality helped to soften the austerity of the 2010. Here the wine showed its class - structure, deftness, not quite sleek but a good firm finish without being robust. The duck did the same, letting notes of dark forest fruit and plum come out in the wine. The 2009 just whacked everything with its massive fruit and mouth and didn't really do much for the dish, though as a wine it was big, bold and beautiful. Like Brigitte Bardot or Pamela Anderson with a baseball bat. Both the Cassoulet and the 2010 grew on me, though Lenglui found the 2009 more to her taste and preference. So it goes. The lack of starch and abundance of fresh ingredients and deft touch of the salt shaker in the Cassoulet suggested that chef likes to let the food do the talking. Very tasty indeed. 

Some on the table felt that to have cut the sausage into slices was a mistake since it released too much oil into the broth. Others felt they would have reduced the broth more to make the taste more intense. Well, and maybe. There was indeed oil in the broth and the texture was not "brothy" in the rich and sloppy sense of the word. But I thought it was lovely. Chef clearly had his reasons for his choices and for me they worked well. 

Dessert was very rich. Date, cake and cognac gave a gagging syrup mouth nicely tamed by the ice cream and firmed up with the nuts. Lush, swish and firm, not unlike a Christmas pudding in body, content and texture. Ho Ho Ho indeed.

Cognac Spheres covered in crushed almonds and drizzled with coffee sauce, served with Earl Grey ice-cream

In all, a very good night. Generous with the pourings, and good matches of well tasty food and darling Bordeaux wines. It did revive a memory of our Bordeaux group getting dropped off at the Chateau Fieuzal from the bus and enjoying the cool evening in the grounds of the Chateau whilst the caterers got their act together inside. Which was good - memory is all we have sometimes, and some of us get to lose it way too soon so best to totally enjoy it whilst we have it.  Didn't get much of a chance to chat with Stephen since everyone was very eager to get a piece of him. He looked a lot less stressed than he seemed two nights previous, so the jetlag presumption seemed correct. It was very good company being opposite David for the night, though I think the Doc was a bit miffed with FDQ being opposite him and  absorbed with the camera and phone all evening. As said, FDQ not really offering much in the way of conversation. Other than the Cassoulet observation. Think he enjoyed the wines, though. For darn sure, I did. Again. Cheers!!

A well excellent evening!

CHATEAU FIEUZAL WINE DINNER 

2nd AUGUST 2014, 7.30PM

Trio of Canapes 

Chateau Fieuzal Blanc 2011

Cod Bouillinade Cod baked in a thick and rich saffron and seafood jus

Chateau Fieuzal Blanc 2008

Terrine of Pork with duck liver, and rocket salad with a sherry balsamic reduction

Chateau Fieuzal Rouge 2005

Duck and Pork Sausage Cassoulet stewed with garden vegetables and white beans

Chateau Fieuzal Rouge 2009 

Chateau Fieuzal Rouge 2010

Cognac Spheres covered in crushed almonds and drizzled with coffee sauce, served with Earl Grey ice-cream

Chateau Fieuzal at Soleil - tres magnifique!!

Assembly

JULY 31 2014 - This was one of those unmissable IWFS functions - Soleil's excellent European style food being paired with Grand Cru Classe Bordeaux wine. And from a vineyard we had visited during our April 2013 IWFS trip to the region. And at the silly price of RM298 - no wonder all the original 40 places got snapped within a day. In the end the number topped out at 58 which raised some concern as to whether the place could cope. It did. Kudos to the staff and Yuhei and Effandie for marshalling their troops and Chef Evert for getting the food out on time and generally to everyone's satisfaction. 

Instruction was for jackets and medallions which I think most remembered - no one got pulled up about it. Though not sure anyone was taking too much notice. Later in the evening, one of the old members started to fondly reminiscing about when there was more fun and less formality - seems all the stiff back and shirt ideas came in when the IWFS KL got formalised, though whether it was a cause or not is difficult to gauge. Ultimately it is people who decide the tone of these things.

All those in favour...

It had been decided to hold an EGM to consider whether Joint Members should be permitted to exist in the KL branch. This had all come about thanks to resolutions being passed at the World Council level to allow premiums to be charged for non members accompanying members to international events. One had been charged for the upcoming Taiwan bunfight and the rumour was of a threat to impose a horrendous premium for the upcoming in Melbourne in 2015. Joint members was perceived as a way around paying such a premium whereby a spouse became a joint member of the branch and thus the IWFS and the premium payable gets marginalized. It also has the effect of instantly doubling membership at half the member price since joint members apparently enjoy all IWFS member rights and privileges, which no-one seems to have properly addressed or considered to my mind. Not that it seems to have mattered. Almost unanimously it got passed. Everyone got a free glass of wine for attending. O how cheaply the vote can sometimes get bought…

Dr Jag and Lenglui - oooh la la...

There was a downside - the meeting was rapidly concluded which forced us all to sit for about twenty minutes to let the kitchen catch up. And with no wine to slake the thirst which had been whetted at the meeting! Everyone was desperate. We had to talk to each other whilst sober. But time passed quickly and out came the same booze. The aperitif wine doubled as the first wine with the meal and went going down a treat. Though a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon, the Fieuzal 2008 Blanc had a veritable burgundian feel about it. It was all toasted toffee apple and Christmas dates in honey and roaring fireplace in winter. Full and rich in the mouth, not quite opulent but aged enough to get a good hint of it. Lush and luscious. 

For the dinner we were being separated into upstairs and downstairs given the 57 that had been crowbarred into the Soleil. The tables all had names associated with Bordeaux. We were upstairs on Table Leognan with a few old friends. Dr Jag came late and ceremonially "broke thirst" and we were off. The perception was that all the senior committee had been designated to sit downstairs with the winemaker in the downstairs and so we in the upstairs got labelled as the outcasts (or upcasts as it subsequently became). So it goes. At least we didn't feel the need to be on best behaviour.

Squid and Shellfish in Escabeche

First out was the Squid and Shellfish in Escabeche which proved a lovely lemongrass and herb bite. The combo of cockles and squid felt a bit squidgy, but the broth was a seaside delight of salt and oil sea breeze scented with chive and rocket. The oyster with a dab of avocado puree worked nicely as a chew and slurp, and what felt like a slap of wasabi in the avocado puree was a nice surprise. The salt naturally made one want to drink (which we did) and the staff more than made up for the enforced delay with their generosity in the pourings. Match-wise the 2008 did well, though lacked that little tinge of acidity that might have set the seafood off a shade better. No complaints, though - a lovely wine paired with a well tasty dish.

Fennel and Apple Salad with Smoked Monkfish and Grapefruit Dressing

Second out was the Smoked Monkfish which, though indeed smoked, felt a shade over-firm and more ceviche in texture than smoked. As if the grapefruit dressing had leached out the remaining oil and diminished the overall balance in the flakes. Simple presentation of the fish slices on the apple salad bed with a dash of oil across the top. Nicely light crunch on the finely chopped apple salad and the fennel lent a liquorice undertone to the ensemble. I tried my neighbours fennel on its own with the wine and got a cute little pinch on the inside of the cheek for my trouble. Must try these things.

The dish was being paired with the 2011 Fieuzal Blanc which was way more lively than its older sibling. Full in the mouth and lively on the throat, this was a bright and breezy drinker made for chugging and cheering rather than the more contemplative 2008. For me, the 2011 would have been better if paired with the first dish to lend the necessary acidity and crispness demanded by shellfish. Equally, the Monkfish was a far better result when paired with the rich and buttery 2008 Blanc. The only reasons I can speculate on having the 2008 first are a) there was a lot more of it and b) better to continue with the same wine as the aperitif rather than go back to it after the 2011. So it goes. Everyone liked the 2011. 

Braised Duck and Crispy Veal Sweetbread with Mushrooms and Puff Pastry

Third out was the Braised Duck and Crispy Veal Sweetbread with Mushrooms and Puff Pastry. This was one of those dishes where the sum was better than the parts, though some of the parts were outstanding. The veal and the puff pastry were saltily magnificent and with the soft oily duck made for a textural breathtaker. Belter of a dish. Seeing the 2005 come out ahead of the younger Fieuzal reds was a bit surprising, though again one must presume there were reasons. The more youthful tannins in the later presentations would certainly have fought with the duck, and the 2005 was sufficiently lean and structured to pair well with pretty much any dish. Not a stellar pairing, but so nice to drink Bordeaux Grand Cru Classe wine here in KL. As said, lean and structured but with fair fruit and silky finish - life is good, man. 

left to right: IWFS KL President Dr Rajan, Chateau Fieuzal winemaker Stephen Carrier and
IWFS KL Secretary Wong Yin-How

Around this point, Yin How brought winemaker Stephen Carrier upstairs to say hello. Stephen looked different from the man I remember from our visit to Chateau Fieuzal in April 2013. Seemed like he had put on some weight, somehow got grey hair, and came across as less ebullient and lively. Though maybe he was just jetlagged. Certainly at a subsequent Chateau Fieuzal dinner at the Ribs a couple of days later, he was more the man I remember. The added weight seems to suit him - makes him look more the archetypal burly French winemaker and bon viveur and son of the soil. Champagne soil, too.

Lamb Eye of Short Loin with Pistachio Crumble, Vegetable Ratatouille and Eggplant Puree

The 2009 and 2010 came out together to pair with the choices of main dishes. I had the lamb whilst Lenglui had the beef. The lamb medallions were nicely presented on the plate, but texturally was a bit overfirm and somewhat dry to my taste. Other members asserted that their lamb was as tender as a teenage dream. Maybe mine had been waiting a bit too long somewhere. Maybe I am more used to lamb on the rack rather than the loin. The combo with the pistachio and puree was a cracker of nut crunch and light cream though I got a hint of red pepper and capsicum which did its usual repeat business. 

Pan Seared Black Angus Beef Tenderloin with Glazed Vegetables and Sarawak Pepper Sauce

Had a taste of the beef which was also firm, though more tender than my lamb. Interesting jus with the Sarawak pepper lending a sweet tea taste to the meat that complemented rather than overpowered. Very nice. Didn't get to try the fish. 

Serena Hiu and YC Yap

The wines were complete opposites in the way they presented themselves. The 2009 was massive fruit and big tannins though with enough alcohol to balance them out. This was a real Bordeaux, bold and sassy and well in your face. The 2010 was way more restrained and quite austere, with thinnish fruit and more elegance in its structure though the tannins were hugely prominent. Clearly being drunk far ahead of its time, though not sure how much time will be available. 

Paul and Ria Thomas

Whilst the brassy 2009 proved the crowd favourite, the better food red wine on the night was the 2005. It was classic with the beef and cut the firm lamb proteins and fats well enough to make for a pleasant pairing. Only downside was that the later red servings felt a tad stingy. Not so much that it made a difference - still got that muzzy morning after head that makes you want to bang it on the desk to clear the fog and wake up the brain.  Maybe it is a perspective thing that changes as one gets more inebriated - the volumes are actually the same, just that they feel less. But the white certainly felt more generous in the pourings.

Dr Stephen Hall, Dr Lee Su Kim and Ria Thomas

With only dessert to come, Lenglui and I decided to head downstairs to say hello to friends. Didn't get too far because their mains were just coming to the tables. Guess the kitchen had staggered the preparation so that upstairs got theirs together and downstairs had a bit more of a wait. Made sense. Good pragmatic way to cope with large numbers. Kudos. Our hails and hellos got cut short. 

Repairing back upstairs, we got greeted with demands for songs to be sung, so I was able to get my Tom Jones on. It's a great song to get people raucous and in a rabble rousing mood. Lenglui did her rapturously received New York New York and a request for me to do Proud Mary which for some reason proved a total home run. Final choice of YMCA was also a result, though it seemed a bit of an odd choice for IWFS members to request. There you go - never really know people, do we?

Dark Chocolate Cremeux with Caramel Banana Ice Cream

Dessert was a lovely combo of rich and firm Chocolate and the match with the Banana Ice Cream ended the night on a cool creamy chocolate note. The berries gave a rasping acid burn on the tongue which the ice cream cooled and the chocolate soothed. Perfecto. 

In all, it was a darn good drink we all had. As said, quite generous with the white, the red felt a teeny bit stingy, though not so as one could complain. Not at these prices. Great kudos to both restaurant and organiser Yin How. Excellent evening indeed. 

The Menu

First Course

Squid and Shellfish in Escabeche

2008 Fieuzal Blanc

Second Course

Fennel and Apple Salad with Smoked Monkfish and Grapefruit Dressing

2011 Fieuzal Blanc

Third Course

Braised Duck and Crispy Veal  Sweetbread with Mushrooms and Puff Pastry

2005 Fieuzal Rouge

Main Course

Pan fried Atlantic Cod with Zucchini and Mussels in Saffron Broth

OR

Lamb Eye of Short Loin with Pistachio Crumble, Vegetable Ratatouille and Eggplant Puree

OR

Pan Seared Black Angus Beef Tenderloin with Glazed Vegetables and Sarawak Pepper Sauce

2009 Fieuzal Rouge

2010 Fieuzal Rouge

Dessert

Dark Chocolate Cremeux with Caramel Banana Ice Cream

The Wines (Makers Notes)

2008 Fieuzal Blanc 

Straw-green with golden highlights. Rich apricot and peach aromas are complemented by sweet caramel and waxy nuances. Rich and plump in the mouth, with flavors of caramel-coated candy apple, ripe tropical fruits and a semillon-typical waxy quality. This round, full-bodied wine leaves a downright glycerol mouthfeel and enticing lingering notes of citrus fruits and herbs. (Tanzer 88-91, Parker 90)

2011 Fieuzal Blanc 

Bright, pale straw.  Complex aromas of white peach, vanilla and white flowers on the enticing nose.  Bright and fresh on the palate, with juicy acidity lifting the ripe citrus and mineral flavors.  The finish is long and pure, with rising but noble tannins.  A very refined white wine. (Tanzer 90-93, Parker 89)

2005 Fieuzal Rouge 

Smoke, black truffles, crushed rock, and leafy notes combined with earth, fresh mushrooms, and cassis result in a complex set of aromatics for the dark ruby/purple-colored 2005 Fieuzal. Medium-bodied with crisp acidity and high tannin, this serious wine is closed, but promising. (Tanzer 88, Parker 90)

2009 Fieuzal Rouge 

A terrific, classic Graves with notes of subtle smoke, black raspberries, black currants, graphite and unsmoked cigar tobacco, this full-bodied, deep, concentrated de Fieuzal is far more generous and deep than most vintages of the past. There is also a wonderful freshness and length to this somewhat oversized de Fieuzal while it still maintains its elegance and class. (Tanzer 92, Parker 92)

2010 Fieuzal Rouge 

Good deep ruby-red.  Dark berries and spicy, cedary oak dominate the nose.  Supple and broad but a bit less creamy in the early going than is normal for this wine.  Sexy, soil-driven flavors of plum, tobacco, cigar box and spices show good energy.  Firm tannins clamp down on the finish without introducing any dryness.  A rather classically styled Fieuzal with good mid-term aging potential. (Tanzer 91, Parker 90)

Triple Round, Serendah - not blown away

Soft Shell Crab

I generally dislike these food safaris that all my Malaysian Chinese friends seem to like with an intense passion. You know the script - A friend of a friend has somehow determined that this restaurant in this god forsaken out of the way town is the dogs for food and we should all go there one night to eat and why not go this weekend, oh and by the way I have already booked. Annoys me to have to trek across the country, get lost, get angry and turn up at the place in a bad mood and not really ready to enjoy the food. So it was I found myself driving up the North South Highway to Bukit Beruntong to eat at the Triple Round with the lenglui and in no way looking forward to getting lost. Huge control freak - don't like not knowing where I am or where I am going. But this should have been okay - we had a map and it looked straightforward. But then it always does, doesn't it? The food had better be worth it...

Mixed Vegetables

Actually, the web reviews looked very promising and the organising DQ had decided that it was absolutely essential that we all go there to eat as she had already invited her Yeehah friends to go there. So that was that. DQ loves to eat, especially with friends and other people who love to eat. Getting to the turnoff was easy enough though we did indeed get a bit lost by taking the one turning too soon. Got advised to go past the Petron station and take the next right and turn in 180 degrees and the place was at the far end of the shophouse block. Which it was. Next time preprogram the Garmin or the Waze. 

The place was buzzing and this was at 6.30pm. All Chinese. DQ had thoughtfully reserved the aircon part of the restaurant and they were all sat there waiting for me and visibly dehydrating. Seems the restaurant didn't have a corkscrew and they all knew for sure that I would bring one. Of course. I am IWFS. Force of habit makes me stuff a corkscrew in the pocket just on leaving the apartment. Just in case.

The Poon Choy

Not that it did much good in this early part of the evening. We spent our first ten minutes begging the staff to bring plates, glasses and tea before I finally decided to get the things for ourselves. Screw them. The table cheered. The staff didn't seem to notice or care - trying to cater to too many people to try to keep them all satisfied, no need to get worked up over some gwailo doing their work for them. Quite right. Screw him. Er, me. 

The food had been pre-ordered and it all seemed to come at once. There was Crispy Soft Shell Crab and Jellyfish Salad to start, Kampong White Chicken and Ginger Sauce, Prawn Rolls, Mixed Green Vegetables and the stars of the night - the Poon Choy and the Roast Pork Knuckle.

Kampong Chicken

The judgement? Okay, I guess. I am probably not the best judge of prime Cantonese Soul Food, but I found this… just okay. The soft shell crab was nicely crisp and crunchy though not a lot of crab, the prawn rolls firm and sweet, the veggies a bit over salted and the chicken nothing to shout about. The Poon Choy was essentially a mix of various foods in a big round pot which gets covered and steamed together for a while to create a kind of a hotpot. There was roast pork, stewed pork, duck feet, scallop, abalone, prawn, broccoli and black mushroom. It was very hearty, though the sum was probably greater than its parts. And as I am not a great one for duck feet, abalone and mushroom, a lot of the thing went straight past me. Probably too gwailo to understand the thing. It all felt way oversalted, though wholesome and quite tasty. 

Prawn Rolls

The Pork Knuckle got demolished quite fast and was good in a Germanic kind of way. My bit had tiny chunks of meat and gristle and little bony bits and not really enough to get a full taste of it. The bit I did have was okay, somewhat reminiscent of the ones we would get at the Eurodeli in its Ampang incarnation - crunchy, salty skin and juicy succulent meat. One Pork Knuckle we recently had at the Damansara Kim outlet was fairly good, but not the standard of the glory days. Maybe need a return trip to the Triple Round to give the knuckle another try. 

We sucked down five bottles - two of my lovely Hardy's Chardonnay, two bottles of Pinot (one a bold New Zealander, the other a cherry jam gooey Napa creation) and some sweetly vicious looking fizz which I didn't get to try. 

Eat me.

Would I go back? Well….   no, not really. At least not on this showing. A forty five minute drive to get there was not really merited given the taste of the food and the need for the self service. It was… okay. Not bad, just not really spectacular all round. I can see why the DQ and the others like it. Total for thirteen people was RM40 each which is brilliant value. But it didn't quite do it for me. We can get better quality in the city which begs the question why travel to Bukit Beruntong? Not that the place was short of punters scarfing down the food - business was happily booming. Was told that their other dishes are stunners - the pork mince on tofu and the pork ribs in orgasmic sauce - but there was no space left in the belly to try. Now going to Dengkil for the seafood makes sense - brilliant fish, well prepared and superb value which is tough to find in KL. Also the Dengkil is locked into the Garmin. But the Triple Round...   no. Maybe the style is just not the kind of food I would travel for. Didn't blow me away. Sorry.

Photos by Jan Shaw.

Restaurant Triple Round 

1, Jalan Melati 2B 

Bandar Bukit Beruntong

48300 Serendah 

Selangor D E

GPS: 3.4061364 , 101.5562796

Tel: 012 380 1162 ask for Lee Li

DV Ristorante Pizzeria - not so good

Our Menu - note the "Main Curse"

Had a dinner with the Amante at the DV Ristorante in Damansara the other night. The web reviews and reports were quite glowing so it was with some high anticipation of a good food night that we made our way to Damansara.

The restaurant is on the corner of the shophouse block on Jalan Setiabakti. We remember it as Lords the Tailor and a flower shop run by old friend Carol. I think they still operate the Decanter chain around the city. Parking was easy on a Thursday night.

The restaurant itself was a long strip littered with simple chairs and tables and in dark brick with a bar to get the drinks out. We were seated on a long strip of tables next to the windows, with one extra table that had been commandeered for the booze. 

Under the deal secured by the Amante, we were supposed to each get two free glasses of their house wine with the dinner. We never tasted it - we had brought loads of our own, so much that we didn't get around to it. Corkage was RM33 per bottle.

Scallop and Parmesan Crust and Lap Cheong Tomato

Good wines brought by everyone, though can't remember what they all were. Mostly red. I brought a Giesen Pinot Gris 2011 which was crispily peach and banana with a sugary bite and a Le Volte 2011 which was dark and moody fruit and drank most nicely. There was some lovely fizz to start and Dealerman brought some bigass Penfolds Shiraz which was massive powerful. Good drinking night. Good glasses from the restaurant too, though the service was grim. Not enough staff to man both kitchen and wines. I took over the booze.

At the start of the dinner whilst the wine was being quaffed, someone asked where were the bread rolls and got told none would be provided. Hmmm. Bread rolls are pretty standard in Italian places.  Felt a bit… cheap. Not the best of form to start the evening. 

Linguine al Pesto

Foodwise the evening was not startling, though the kitchen was quite brisk in getting the food out. Little taste or texture on the scallop which was overpowered by the salty parmesan crust. Though the arugula with the dried baby tomato was firm in the mouth. Kind of like a peppery fruit lap cheong with a salty textured chew.

The linguine came out looking (and subsequently tasting) like a ball of floury rough stodge given flavour by the pesto.  The beef was tough and unchewable with no taste. The lamb fared slightly better though again on the tough side. Some said they enjoyed it. I found it inedible. Didn't try the fish. The vegetables were good, nicely undercooked  and tasting of mushroom with the texture of abalone. The Tiramisu was lovely - cream, sweet, spongey gunge, sprinkle of coffee - very very nice. Can't remember if there was coffee - don't think there was. Most of us were all happily chugging the wines.

Black Angus Tagliata - tough and dry

Equally good was the Braesola Pizza that Dealerman ordered, presumably to fill the belly given the failure of the other courses to do so. It rocked - great crust, good cheese and fresh greens. This might be where DV shines. Certainly on this outing the rest of the dinner was not of a standard we can get elsewhere in the city. Maybe a bad night, but given that there were only 20 of us and a sprinkling of other patrons one would expect a kitchen and staff to be able to cope. Would go back for the Pizza and desserts but that would be it - the mains were pretty grim. 

Starter

Baked king Scallop with Parmesan Crust on a bed of aragula

Entree

Linguine al Pesto

Main Course

Black Angus Tagliata 

or

Oven Baked Cod at "Cartoccio"

or

Charbroiled Lamb Loin

Dessert

Tiramisu

The lovely Tiramisu

Before....

and after!!

Cheers!!

DV Ristorante Pizzeria

77 Jalan Setiabakti

Damansara KL

Tel 03-2098 2001

Shang stiffs IWFS for water - again!!

Fool me once, more fool you. Fool me twice...

Seems that for the second time, our IWFS KL has gotten stiffed for water charges by the Shangri-La Hotel Kuala Lumpur. This time was an event at the Arthur's Bar (which I did not attend - still peeved at the Shang from previous experiences at events there as reported elsewhere on this blog). Seems staff were asking if our members and guests wanted still or sparkling water WITHOUT STATING UPFRONT THAT THERE WOULD BE A CHARGE FOR IT. Although it was managed to get nipped in the bud before it got too expensive, the principle is that staff remain apparently instructed by management not to advise that water is chargeable at functions and it is presumably "assumed" by the staff that guests at such functions will know and understand that such water is chargeable as an extra. Whether such water issues are discussed and determined at contract negotiation stage I do not know at this time. If it is, then most of what follows becomes futile since the Shang can presumably point to the contract and say "you should have told your guests." 

Even so, I feel there is still a point. The issue is that in private Society events (which this one was), the assumption generally is that water is part of the evening's offerings for which any and all charges will have been paid upfront by Society members as part of the overall total they have paid to the Society. They reasonably assume that their water is gratis and payment for it would have been covered in their prepayment for the evening. For the Society to get stiffed with an extra bill for water leaves a very bad taste. As stated elsewhere, I presently no longer patronise the Shang if I can help it. When I do, I make a point of asking for warm water which comes from the tap. Whilst I enjoy sparkling water, I prefer not to pay the premium that hotels impose on it. 

The perception is that it appears exceptionally cheap for a hotel of the supposed stature and star quality of the Shangri-La Kuala Lumpur to add such water charges for guests of private functions at hotel outlets and venues. I recognise from a business angle that there is a cost factor that needs to be covered. Even so, why not be upfront about the bottled water and its chargeability and not nastily surprise people at the end of the night with the bill? It really whacks the goodwill factor which gets seen to take second place to apparently making a swift couple of Hundred Plus Plus Ringgit on the water. Why not instruct staff to offer warm water as a viable alternative? As said, this is the second time it has happened to the IWFS (previous was a Chateau Beychevelle Wine dinner at Lafite). I just find it sad and unbecoming and it all reinforces why I now prefer to not patronise the place either personally or through the Society. Well, this and the below standard food I had at a function there in July last year. Bad form again, Shang, bad form again…

Menage A Trois with Lanson Champagne at Brasserie Enfin

8th April 2014

This one has been lying on the desk for clearly too long so time to get it up in the blog as it was a cracker of a night. Notwithstanding some occasional iffy pairings, it was an evening of great food and fizz. 

We were a bit apprehensive of going to this one, given our horrendous traffic experience of the previous visit to the Enfin. Indeed, the view of the road from the office was horrific. We opted to try a different roundabout route on the NKVE which proved surprisingly swift - forty minutes in heavy but moving traffic. Lesson learnt - avoid the Federal Highway in the afternoon. Although previous experience in driving back to KL from a wine pickup at the Cave and Cellar suggests that the NKVE is still slow - well, at least the slip road going up to it - a continuous massive jam across all the lanes from the toll booth with cars and lorries jockeying to get into the one they want. Federal back is also not much better - backlogs trying to join up with it through and often past the Sunway turnoff. Nightmare. 

So it was we found ourselves in the Ara Damansara Oasis with about forty minutes to kill before corks up. We wandered around the complex, working up a thirst and checking out the various outlets. Not greatly busy at this time, though the concept is pleasant - food eateries around a pool which spouts water and gets lit up prettily after sundown. Worth a visit just for the buzz. 

The Lanson range

The evening was to be a showcase of Lanson Champagnes paired with Chef Justin's excellent food. We were joined by Anson Hobbs the Lawson rep for Asia Pacific, who once lived in Hong Kong and was now based in Reims. We told him of an impending trip to France in September and he said it was a good time to visit. Can get a TGV from CDG which takes 29 minutes to get to Reims. Tempting…

We were being joined by The Doc and The Geezer who was a late addition and also got surprised when fellow Porkie May Peng and IWFS kaki Rhian also got parked at our table. Oh dear. This could get boozy. 

The Lanson Range

The notes say Lanson is one of the oldest Champagne Houses, blending Pinot Noir and Chardonnay sourced from the region's best Crus - Verzenay, Avixe, Bouzy (what a name!) and Oger. The grapes go straight into press and fermentation and bottle with no secondary malolactic taking place - owner Victor Lanson decided to maintain a unique freshness that results from leaving nature to do what she does without too much interference in the wine making process. The claim is that this "allows the best aromas of the fruit to develop and reveals the original purity of the grape." Okay, we'll give it a go.

Our host and rep for Lanson Anton Hobbs got up to say that Champagne was the drink of Kings, with Royal Warrants and Seals being given only to the best. Lanson was a bit unique in that its crest was the English Cross. Not many English families get a French Warrant to make champagne for the King. Lanson is also a regular sponsor for both the French Open and Wimbledon, selling about 25,000 bottles per event. Never see a bottle being shook on Centre Court, though - maybe a marketing opportunity being missed here? He talked a bit about the presence of the Malic acid which could be found by virtue of the apples taste in our first fizz. Certainly a unique tasting champagne with the apples, though tending toward coming off like a fizzy cider. Nice, though a bit of a shock to those used to more biscuit and neutral bubbles. 

The first fizz out (Lanson Black) was sweet and big lemon spritzy on the tongue, reminiscent of a good bottle of Cream Soda Pop. Lovely bubbles. To join it was the Chef's complimentary - a macaroon laced with a combo of wasabi, natural obiko and black olive paste. Total umami and salt which set off the sugary and dissolving macaroon very nicely. Here, the apple champagne showed its chops - the apple gave the fruit on the tongue whilst the bubbles seared the tastebuds and ripped the sugar from the cheeks a rare treat. Zippy? Double zippy. A full blown sweet salty blitz with fizzing bubbles zapping everywhere. Total bzzzzt on the tongue. 

One Oysters Trio of Strawberry Gastrique, Watermelon Gazpacho and Grapefruit Gelee

The Oysters fresh from the West Coast of Canada came out a bit warm at room temperature, which again was a shock given the usual penchant for them to be served cold and on ice. But they were huge, big suckers and damn beautiful in the mouth.  Truth be said, they were more of a throatful than a mouthful, and being able to actually bite into an oyster rather than the usual let it slip down the throat was wonderful. Each oyster had a different fruit taste and texture, with strawberry, watermelon and grapefruit combined with occasional chili to give off tremendous sensations across the mouth. Very tasty. The paired lanson Black Label gave out pear and citrus and grapefruit, which was claimed to be a great match with the grapefruit oyster. Well, and maybe - there was a bit too much seashore in the oyster to tell for me. But truth be told I was just enjoying their hugeness and the sensation of chewing was delightful. A good full bodied starter, though perhaps a better fizz would have made it phenomenal. Chef James started talking about UMAMI which he said is a savoriness you generally get from meat. He said he was able to heighten the umami in the oysters through use of the fruits to increase the saliva factor. Okay…  I may have got this wrong, maybe hearing one thing and understanding another. Maybe better check. Notes say the sugar from the strawberry gives a bloody umami to the oyster and the same with the watermelon. Whatever.

Not for the first time did there appear to be a lot of instructing and explaining from Chef James going on. There is a reason - the chit chat gives the kitchen a bit more time to get the food out. Makes sense, though the belly can be a hard task master when it is hungry. At least we had had the oysters and amuse bouche to quiet the grumbles. 

Boston Lobster Ceviche with Rose Essence and Crab Cucumber Tian with Coriander and Avocado Creme

The Boston Lobster Ceviche with Rose Essence was being paired with the Lanson Rose. We were told that the wine is not left on the lees since this imports tannins which are not desirable in fizz. Make sense. The Rose was a nicely brisk and dry brushsweep across the tongue, though the balance felt a bit on the acidic side. Natural strawberry notes, but the bubbles seemed to die quite fast. It did indeed bring out the floral rose in the Lobster Ceviche. giving a sense of Turkish Delight about the whole thing. The downside was that this was pretty much all there was - didn't get much of a lobster taste in the lobster. It was all roses and texture and somehow missing something on the tongue. For some reason it reminded of Crocodile meat we once had in Cape Town in South Africa - chewy, slight rubber texture but more tender and with a nice bounce on the bite. It did cut the acidity in the Rose giving rise to a much better balance in the wine, though somewhat at the expense of the food. Unfortunate.

The Doc's fizz seemed far less fizzy than ours, so we sent the glass back suspecting some washing up liquid left in the glass was the culprit. It was.

The crab was excellent - textured and juicy sweet meat which went double belter champion with the avocado. It was also far better with the first fizz than the Rose, boosting the fruit and amplifying the sweet crab. Outstanding match - shame it couldn't have been the official one. The Rose was a bit floral for the crab and tended to mask the avocado.

The 1999 Vintage Lanson Gold Label came out ahead of the Chicken and came over as somewhat masculine in its bold acidity and firm bubbles. A complex biscuit on the nose, it was in beautiful balance. An easy drinker with clean bubbles, rich and full in the mouth with almond, honey, and apricot marmalade leading to a somewhat throat oily rich finish. Yum. Wine of the night. We asked for many refills. Candy obliged. Nice girl. This fizz showed its class later in the night when it got revisited after some time in the glass; still retaining an excellent body and character even after the fizz had, er, fuzz…

The Mushroom has a splash of vinegar which cut nicely through the earth notes. Abalone I have yet to really get - all is mostly texture, though the salt and zap of the mushroom gives a nice blitz on the back tongue.

Whole Roasted Free-range Chicken stuffed with Baby Abalone and French Herb Butter with Jus of Exotic Mushrooms in Chardonnay

The Chicken is well cooked - great juice texture with a nice salty zip on the tongue. Good chook. The combo with the mushroom is magnificent in an earthy, peasant and rustic kind of way - total fulfilling soul food. The potato is in similar style, like a sweet fritter with an oily fat crisp crunch about the thing. Just like mother used to make - roasted spuds with the chicken and getting all its flavours from the fat. A taste of childhood rekindled. Priceless.

As said, the fizz was beautiful but was not really a match with the chicken. Would have been better served as an aperitif with some salty appetizers to spritz the start of a night, though the need to showcase by order of class is understood and necessary for comparison. In contrast, the Rose (now warm) is far better and cuts a wicked swathe through the light grease of the meat. 

The Landon Ivory demi sec came out and across as apples and honey and hugely sweet, though with enough acidity to give a lovely balance across the mouth. The bubbles and methode of making gave a fizzy crispness and ended up like Corona Lemonade, the taste of growing up as a kid in Grangetown. Mars Bars and Pop, as John Lynch would have said. Though this one naturally had more of a kick! 

Charlotte Enfin of Durian Creme and Cinnamon Croissant

The Charlotte Enfin was essentially a croissant pumped full of durian creme to end up like an eclair with a light cream topping. For some reason it gave off mint when paired with the Durian Creme. Quite an odd juxtaposition of tastes and textures which somehow worked. My notes say it was odd, but good - good odd, if that makes sense. Chef showed his genius with a sprig of basil across the top to give a pungent herb kick to the combo. Belter. Though the durian whacked me for an intestinal six. More repeats than CSI on the Astro and Durian breath for days. It is definitely a vicious fruit. Beware.

For some reason there was not much interaction between the table guests. Perhaps this is because the Enfin tables are a bit on the wide side, and this can make getting to know people across the table a bit difficult. The space becomes a divide and consequently a barrier - the distance makes for difficulty in hearing against the background noise which also diminishes the conviviality a bit. Seemed the same on the other tables. I did try to engage everyone with a "cheers" and while our end of the table lustily obliged, the other end seemed a bit reluctant. There you go. We had a good time. I hope they did.

Cave and Cellar were selling the various Lanson at various prices in combo sets. We didn't buy - nice at is was, at an average of RM250 a bottle you can get the branded stuff a shade cheaper. And we are not that much of connoisseurs with the fizz - it is not a style we salivate about and would much prefer a tasty Bordeaux or a fine Burgundy. But certainly a pleasant experience to try some of the different stuff and well worth the trek to the Enfin. See everyone in Reims one day - Salut!

Degustation

Amuse Bouche

Entree

One Oysters Trio of Strawberry Gastrique, Watermelon Gazpacho and Grapefruit Gelee

Lanson Black Label - Brut

Entree Two

Boston Lobster Ceviche with Rose Essence and Crab Cucumber Tian with Coriander and Avocado Creme

Lanson Rose Label - Brut NV

Main One

Whole Roasted Free-range Chicken stuffed with Baby Abalone and French Herb Butter with Jus of Exotic Mushrooms in Chardonnay

Lanson Gold Label - Brut NV

Dessert

Charlotte Enfin of Durian Creme and Cinnamon Croissant

Lanson Ivory - Demi Sec