IWFS Kuala Lumpur President's Dinner 2018 Sage Restaurant - brilliant!!

SATURDAY DECEMBER 8th 2018

Short Version

Another brilliant evening at the Sage for the IWFS KL President's Dinner of fantastically tasting food and wonderfully drinking wines.  And managing to raise RM300,000 from the members and guests for the charities from the members wine auction - a stunning bar raise from the amazing RM200,000 raised at the PD last year. Good fun evening, thoroughly enjoyed. Details on charities supported and wines donated by the members at the end of this post.

Tables One and Two at the Sage - love the ambience here

Long Version

Chef Daniel getting ready to, er, chef...

The IWFS President's Dinner – the Society’s black tie gala dinner – was once again be held at Sage Restaurant at the Gardens Hotel at Mid Valley in Kuala Lumpur. This made for the 6th year on the bounce. In my last report on the PD I set out the reasons for the continuing return which again prevailed this year -  the alternative venues still do not measure up to the service and quality of Chef Daniel's kitchen and the superb service given out by the Sage wines management. Everyone knows how everyone works and what needs to be done and… so far so good. It breeds tremendous confidence knowing that the food, the wine, and the service will all be handled well. 

And it is the same with the organisation on the IWFS KL side. We know what tasks need completion by when and it all goes relatively smoothly. Though this year the auction lists were a bit late due to some last minute donations being delivered at the Vintry needing inclusion. Little bit frazzling, but all seems to get handled with good humour. Though there was one member who on the day of the dinner wanted to bring two big bags of grapes for the members to munch on during canape time. Someone observed that their acidity had great potential to wreck the Champagne whilst another wondered whether Chef might throw a fit at such a late addition of this fruity amuse bouche and whether he could be persuaded to, er...   DO something with them; a coulis perhaps. In the end, the member apparently was finally persuaded against the gesture. No Grape Expectations happening here, hoh? Again, kudos to the Vintry team for managing and processing all the booze. 

He's making a list, he's checking it twice...

We again got a grant from our regional supervisory body, the IWFS Asia Pacific Zone (APZ) to go toward the purchase of special wines to again recognise the generosity of the IWFS KL members for their continual and massive generosity in giving to the charities every year. This year we had the Agrapart & Fils 7 Crus NV which proved a good rasping, er, rasp on the throat though it was better when chilled to the near freeze and got a shade over fruited when it was warmer. Lesson - drink it fast. 

Everyone was looking good in their tuxedos and evening gowns. It is fun to occasionally dress up to the nines and mingle with the members and catch up or bond over something bubbling. Some members we don't see from year to year for various reasons (travel, career, family) so the annual black tie seems to give more of a reason to get out and circulate. I was a solo potato this evening - the Lenglui had packed off with the Tai Chi group on an away to Shantou, an apparent food mecca of Teow Chew style cuisine. I naturally could not join because of the IWFS dinner; also I prefer not to visit anywhere that charges me for a visa to enter. Which may get more frequent given impending Brexit. That's all right - stay home and enjoy the local restaurants and shopping. Or just go back to Italy. And France. And Germany. and Spain. 

IWFS KL President Chan May Peng with
IWFS Hong Kong President Karen Leung

Foodwise, all the dishes were again magnificent and the wines all paired respectively well. Though the Doc and I did not get any of the Sauternes - it had all been sucked by the time we got back to the table from our auctioneering duties. So it goes - I swiped an open bottle of the JJ Confuron that had been conveniently left on the bar as compensation. The Doc did not complain. 

The starter Scallop was a beautiful bite with just enough crunch for interest whilst the Buri Fish was sublime and a fabulous match with the all honey and crisp apples Grand Cru Chablis. The venison and foie gras that followed was an amazing contrast in terms of full on taste and power on the tongue - felt a bit like eating an entire French Bistro in one mouthful. The JJ Confuron was brilliant - five years and drinking beautifully though still some good time to go. Have to see if the supplier got some I can store away - lovely drop. 

The cleanser was excellent - the Yuzu cut and slashed the gunk of the Venison Pate into gastronomic evaporation and the lamb that followed was absolutely fantastic. A double rib crusted with almond and the most amazing blue cheese sauce. The combo of meat, crust and sauce was… everything. Salt, sour, earth, mould, bite, chew, texture and all blending and welding and combining into something that was just….   wowwowwow. And the dessert that followed was equally wonderful - the melting Cointreau ice cream was completely off the planet and tasting of some joyous Dionysian or Bachanalian creation for the Gods. Both easily match some of the dishes I have had at European Michelins, and in many respects exceed. Who needs to travel when you have a star like Chef on the doorstep? Well done again Chef Daniel!!

One bite starters - amazing Scallop and excellent contrasts across the three

The two Lascombes were vibrant and bursting with fruit, though the 2005 had the edge in balance terms - bit more sleek and complex than the bright and lively racehorse that the 2008 presented. Both have a lot of time left in them, but drank well on the night. Outside of missing the Sauternes, the wine service was friendly and efficient and timely in terms of the staff seeing who were the boozers and topping up as and when. Great job guys!

The brilliant Buri Fish - all taste and texture and fiery pops of chive - belter

Again, Wine Doc Stephen and I were the designated auctioneers. The annual auction sees members donating some of their lovelies for auction for which members and guests on the night can bid, and all the proceeds will get directed to charities designated by Committee from time to time as worthy of support. The auction is split across two sessions, with the appropriate sequences of the lots and their reserve prices being decided by Vintry's Yin-How. Doc Stephen usually takes the first half of each session and I do the second halves. He is hugely knowledgeable of the wines and gives a serious introduction whereas I am more of a barrow boy hawker flogging off the goods. Makes for a good contrast and the punters seem to enjoy it. The early bids give a sense of how the crowd is feeling and tonight there felt a bit of electric in the air - there were some serious early bids and you could feel that the big hitters were not going to wait long in going for a strike. I picked up a magnum of Torbreck Runrig donated by Michelle at AsiaEuro, and as the lots got knocked down the bids got substantially higher. In the end, a mammoth RM300,000 got raised. Pleasantly shocked best describes how everyone felt at this news of the massive generosity of those who donated time and booze and money for the three causes (see below). 

Lovely wafer crunchy Venison pate en Croute and Foie Gras - the jus was brilliant and got soaked up with Bread and Butter

And that was pretty much it. Most of the members tumbled off in various states of happy and it was good to see that most people were actually drinking their wines this year. In previous years I have railed against the obscenity of the amount of undrunk wine left in glasses on the tables; it was heartening to see that this was way much less this year. No need to do a Mossie. Though Mossie was in actual attendance this year. Perhaps this was why. Whatever, he helped some of us diehard remainers polish off some leftover reds. Of course. 

Fresh Berry Soup with Nougat and Cointreau Ice Cream

And good to see that all members complied with the Formal Black Tie dress code and ensured their guests did so too and all wearing the medallions as well. Though I confess I almost forgot mine and halfway to the car before I remembered. Would be good if someone could take charge of all the medallions and bring them along to the functions so each can dig one out for the nonce. Better not be me, eh? 

THE CHEF AND HIS CUISINE

Chef K K Chong a.k.a. Daniel maintains a standard in preparation and presentation that comes from his many years of dedication to the art of food. Having spent years learning from Chef Takashi Kimura at both the Cilantro and the Sage restaurants, Chef Daniel took the helm of the Sage kitchen when completion of Cilantro renovations necessitated Chef Kimura's return. 

IWFS Past President David Teh and Pitt Lee with Chef Daniel and photobomb Dr George Lee

Chef Daniel is hugely dedicated to both the preparation and presentation of food, and consistently delivers some of the finest Japanese French fusion cuisine in the region. He has said: "Food is like a work of art. The plate is my canvas. The ingredients are my paint. The customers are my critique."  

THE MENU

Canape Served on Table

Seared Scallop with American Sauce

Kataifi Prawn with Wasabi Aioli

Amera Tomato Fruit with Aged Balsamic Dressing

Agrapart & Fils 7 Crus NV

First Course

Carpaccio of Buri Fish

with Shaved Truffle and Chives

Joseph Drouhin Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru 2015

Second Course

pate en Croute of Venison

with Goose Liver and Perigueux Sauce

JJ Confuron Chambolle Musigny 2013

Palate Cleanser

Yuzu Granite

Main Course

Confit of Suzuki fish

with Tsubugai and Champagne Emulsion

alternatively

Slow Cooked Almond Crusted Lamb Rack

with Blue Cheese Sauce

alternatively

Wagyu Score 6 Striploin

with Daikon Sauce

Chateau Lascombes Margaux 2008

Chateau Lascombes Margaux 2005

Dessert

Fresh Berry Soup

with Nougat and Cointreau Ice Cream

Chateau de Farques Sauternes 2006

Coffee or Tea

The Sage Team with IWFS KL President May Peng

THE DINNER WINES

Agrapart Brut Blanc de Blancs 7 crus 1er Cru NV

Agrapart's NV Brut Blanc de Blancs 7 Crus 1er Cru is surprisingly open in this release, most likely a reflection of the 50% 2015 juice in the blend. Resonant, expressive and giving, the 7 Crus will be very easy to drink young. Lemon peel, flowers and chamomile flesh out in the glass, but it is the wine's ripe personality and suppleness that stand out most. What a pretty wine this is. I don't remember the 7 Crus ever being this radiant, even after the 10% Pinot was added to the blend a few years ago.  ( Vinous 91 points)

Joseph Drouhin Les Clos Chablis Grand Cru 2015

Pale, bright yellow. Piquant, high-toned nose combines minerals, spearmint, ginger, nutmeg and crushed herbs. Sweet and plush on entry, then quite dry on the back half, with a minty, peppery element. (Vinous 89-92 points)

Domaine Jean Jacques Confuron Chambolle Musigny 2013 

Medium-deep red. Strawberry and licorice on the tight nose, along with an earthy nuance. Boasts good intensity but comes across as a bit tart, with black fruit flavors complicated by dark chocolate and licorice notes.  (Vinous 87-89 points)

Chateau Lascombes 2005

A gorgeous example of Lascombes, the 2005, a blend of 52% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, and the rest Petit Verdot, continues the remarkable turn-around in quality that began five years ago. A stunningly opulent wine with a dense purple color, the 2005 possesses a beautiful perfume of spring flowers, blueberries, blackberries, creosote, and graphite, full body, silky but noticeable tannins, a layered mouthfeel, and a stunning, 45+-second finish. (Parker 95 points)

Chateau Lascombes 2008

Another incredibly successful sleeper of the vintage, the 2008 Lascombes confirms just how many top 2008s were produced. A dark plum/ruby/purple-tinged color is followed by a sexy, up-front perfume of forest floor, damp earth, blue and red fruits and a touch of spicy oak. (Parker 93 points)

Chateau de Fargues 2006

The refuge of the Lur Saluces family after selling their beloved Yquem, this is an Yquem-like wine that sells for a fraction of the price fetched for the most famous wine of the region. Rich, honeyed citrus along with creme brulee, vanillin, sweet caramelized pineapple and citrus notes are followed by a wine with an unctuously thick, viscous, full-bodied mouthfeel, but with good enough acidity to balance out the wine’s enormous weight, richness, and concentration. (Parker 93 points)

The Dinner Wines taking a bow

Many thanks to the Wine Sub Committee team for selecting the wines and Wong Yin-How of Vintry for the wine notes. 

THE CHARITIES

This year, the IWFS Kuala Lumpur Committee has resolved to support the following three charities:- The Ampang Old Folks Home, Hospice Klang, and Kasih Hospice Care Society. 

AMPANG OLD FOLKS HOME

The Ampang Welfare Committee (Ampang Old Folks Home) is located in what was the old Ampang New Village. It commenced operating in 1948 when a group of helpless, elderly people who were incapable of building their own homes were placed in a long house which served as an old folks’ home.

With contributions from the public and the support of the Welfare Department, a new building was completed in 2000 to cater for these unfortunate elderly individuals.

There are presently 25 male residents and 25 female residents staying at the home. There is also a waiting list of ten people.

The home incurs a monthly expenditure of about RM20,000/-, which has to be raised solely from donations. Residents do not pay anything to stay there. 

HOSPICE KLANG / HOME PALLIATIVE CARE

Located at 82 Jalan Sri Sarawak 4, Taman Sri Andalas, 41200 Klang.

Created in 1996, Hospice Klang is a not-for-profit, non-political and non-governmental group providing home based palliative care to terminally ill patients of all ethnic groups in the Klang community. 

The aims are to alleviate the suffering of the patients and to enhance their quality of life in their remaining days as well as to offer support and advice to the families of cancer patients to help them care better for their relatives.

The hospice has a fulltime doctor, four nurses and twenty volunteers administering to around 150 patients at any one time. Almost all are suffering from some form of cancer. Many of the patients are referred to the hospice by the hospitals in the area. There are no in-patient services. In 2016, 5,002 home visits were made by the medical team. The average patient will only have about 75 days of care before he/she passes away. 

There are three grades of patients depending on their financial position: some have free care, some pay a little and some pay a bit more. The hospice relies mainly on public donations. The main costs that the hospice has is for the purchase of medications – mainly pain killers.

New premises for Klang Hospice are currently under construction on land donated by the Selangor State government, with completion due early 2018. 

KASIH HOSPICE CARE SOCIETY

Located at 16 Jalan SS3/29, 47300 Petaling Jaya, the Kasih Hospice has been ministering to patients with life limiting diseases, such as cancer and organ failure, irrespective of background, race or religion.

In 2016, 583 patients were cared for. Of these, 410 were suffering from cancer, 121 from end stage renal failure and 52 from other illnesses.

The care team is made up of two trained doctors and six nurses and sixty part-time volunteers. The object is to provide care at the patients’ homes. A visit is made at least once a week. The volunteers visit patients both at home and in hospitals – often just to chat and talk.

The Hospice offers the following services

• Managing patients’ symptoms (ie pain, nausea, shortness of breath etc.)
• Provide medication for symptom control
• Lending equipment free of charge (eg oxygen concentrators, ripple mattresses, wheelchairs)
• Education of basic nursing skills to patients and families/carers 
• Provide emotional/grief support to patients’ families

The running expenses are in the order of RM50,000/- a month. These are covered principally by donations from the public. 

Again, it is inspirational to see the work the team carries out and the true devotion they all have. They really need our support and help, so please donate generously.  

THE DONATED WINES FOR MEMBERS FRIENDLY AUCTION

Bid me where? Auction team members Doc Rajan, Doc Stephen and Sanjeev 

SESSION 1

LOT 1 - 2 GIACOMO BORGOGNO RISERVA 1990

The 1990 Barolo Riserva is initially rather imposing, but then settles down a bit with air. A myriad of tar, smoke, tobacco, herbs and dried prunes emerge from this relatively forward Barolo. The warmth of the 1990 vintage is most apparent in the round, generous finish.  (Vinous 89)

LOT 2 - 1 LOUIS ROEDERER CRISTAL 2006

The 2006 Cristal shows rich and ripe (tropical) fruit on the nose along with delicate brioche notes. Round and textured on the palate, this is a generous but fresh, fine and salty Cristal with a very long and greatly finessed finish. (Wine Advocate 95)

LOT 3 - 1 CHATEAU LA MISSION HAUT BRION 2014

An exquisite bouquet with pure black fruit, cold stone, a touch of black olive and later a suggestion of boysenberry preserve. The palate is still structured and considering that a majority is Merlot, quite masculine. (Wine Advocate 95)

LOT 4 - 1 DOM PERIGNON 1996 

The brilliant 1996 Dom Perignon, which has largely disappeared from the marketplace, may be the finest young example of DP I have ever tasted. Notes of crushed rocks, honeysuckle, lemon oil, orange marmalade, and white pear provide a stunning aromatic display as well as palate impression. Great acidity and huge flavor intensity backed up by vibrant acidity make this an exquisite Champagne. (Wine Advocate 98)

LOT 5 - 1 TORBRECK RUN RIG SHIRAZ 2015

Enormously appealing aromas of grilled fruit, savory complexities and rich, velvety tannins. Of course, it's full-bodied and concentrated, with the stuffing to age for up to a couple of decades, and it has a long, licorice-tinged finish.  (Wine Advocate 98)

LOT 6 - 1 CHATEAU PONTET CANET 2010 & 1 CHATEAU LYNCH BAGES 2010 

Chateau Lynch Bages 2010

A magnificent wine with the classic creme de cassis note intermixed with smoke, graphite and spring flowers. It is a massive Lynch Bages, full-bodied and very 1989-ish, with notable power, loads of tannin, and extraordinary concentration and precision. (Wine Advocate 96)

Chateau Pontet Canet 2010

An astounding, compelling wine with the classic Pauillac nose more often associated with its cross-street neighbor, Mouton-Rothschild, creme de cassis, there are also some violets and other assorted floral notes. The wine has intensity but never comes across as heavy or astringent. (Wine Advocate 100)

LOT 7 - 1 CHATEAU MOUTON ROTHSCHILD 2012

The palate is beautifully balanced with great vim and vigor. This is a Mouton that will not be put down - vivacious, vivid and delineated with wonderful focus and crucially, impressive persistence on the finish. (Wine Advocate 96)

LOT 8 - 1 CHATEAU HAUT BRION 2004

The palate is medium-bodied and very harmonious, almost caressing thanks to the Merlot lending that velvety texture. The second half changes tack, the Cabernet nudging the Merlot off the stage and delivering a more structured, finish that is linear and correct. (Wine Advocate 93)

LOT 9 - 1 DOMAINE FRANCOIS LAMARCHE LE GRAND RUE GRAND CRU 2015

One of 3 great monopoles remaining in Vosne Romanee, together with the Romanee Conti and La Tache vineyards. The 2015 La Grand Rue Grand Cru has a concentrated bouquet, very pure but more introspective than its peers. It unfolds to reveal gorgeous, seductive scents of wild strawberry, raspberry, orange blossom and sous-bois. (Vinous 95)

Lot 10 - 1 CHATEAU LATOUR 2002

Crushed rocks, black currants, and forest floor, dense, full-bodied, and opulent, yet classic with spectacular aromatics, marvelous purity, and a full-bodied finish that lasts just over 50+ seconds. Huge richness and the sweetness of the tannin are somewhat deceptive as this wine seems set for a long life. (Wine Advocate 96)

LOT 11 - 1 CHATEAU HAUT BRION 1985 

It has an elegant bouquet with sandalwood and dried rose petals that combine effortlessly with vestiges of red berry fruit. I noticed how with time in the glass, it offers a "side order" of wild girolles! The palate is medium-bodied with a fine seam of acidity, delicate tertiary and leather tones infiltrating the red berry fruit. (Wine Advocate 93)

LOT 12 - 1 CHATEAU MARGAUX 2000

The extraordinary seductiveness, complex aromatics, and purity it exhibits lead me to believe it has reached its window of full maturity. Medium-bodied, with layers of concentration, stunning blue, red, and black fruits intermixed with spring flowers, a subtle dosage of new oak, and a distinctive personality that is elegant while at the same time powerful and substantial (Wine Advocate 100)

SESSION 2

Lot 13 - 1 CHATEAU MONTROSE 1996

The palate is wonderful with very fine delineation, pitch-perfect acidity, touches of graphite infusing the red and black fruit that dovetails into a very pretty, floral finish. This is clearly one of the great wines of the 1996 vintage. (Wine Advocate 96)

Lot 14 - 1 M.CHAPOUTIER ERMITAGE LE MEAL 2012

A blockbuster that's about as voluptuous and sexy as Hermitage gets. Loaded with cassis, black raspberry, leather, dried violets and wild herbs, this beauty is full-bodied, has tons of sweet tannin and brilliant purity of fruit. (Wine Advocate 98)

LOT 15 - 1 CHATEAU PICHON LONGUEVILLE COMTESSE DE LALANDE 1983

The color is still a healthy dark garnet with some amber creeping in at the edge. The wine shows a very distinctive nose of asphalt, tobacco, and cigar box, intermixed with some sweet cherries and black currants. (Wine Advocate 90)

LOT 16 - 2 BOLLINGER RD EXTRA BRUT CHAMPAGNE 2002

2002 R.D. has plenty of depth, but it is depth through concentration as opposed to elevated ripeness. The low dosage style further adds to that sensation. Hints of chamomile, sage, dried flower and red fruits emerge over time, (Vinous 95)

LOT 17 - 1 CHATEAU ANGELUS 2009

The wine is full-bodied, with a voluptuous texture a magnificent concentration and purity of fruit, a stunning finish of close to a minute, and wonderfully sweet, velvety tannins that make for a prodigious Angelus that should turn out to be one of the all-time greats ever made at this estate. (Wine Advocate 99)

LOT 18 - 1 CHATEAU HAUT BRION 2002

Haut-Brion has turned out a beautifully classic, medium-bodied, precise and focused 2002 boasting a deep ruby/purple color as well as strikingly elegant aromatics (crushed stones, plums, black cherries, currants, figs, and earth). The wine possesses impressively measured power and elegance. (Wine Advocate 92-94)

LOT 19 - 1 CHATEAU MOUTON ROTHSCHILD 2002

The palate is well balanced with crisp acidity. It feels lively on the entry with fine tannin, a Mouton that is nimble on its feet with a gentle grip towards the finish, which offers a satisfying aftertaste of spice and clove. (Wine Advocate 91)

LOT 20 - 1 DOMAINE COMTE LIGER BELAIR CLOS DU CHATEAU 2007

The superstar producer of Vosne Romanee and has entered into the rarified echelons of Leroy and Romanee Conti. This is a rare wine from the vineyard monopole that is exclusive to this producer. Complex and deeply spiced yet delicately red fruited and deceptively long on the finish. A wine for the Burgundy lover.

LOT 21 - 1 CHATEAU LAFITE ROTHSCHILD 2001

The 2001 Lafite Rothschild’s deep, saturated plum/purple color is accompanied by lead pencil liqueur-like notes intermixed with sweet red and black currants, plums, and cedar. This blend of 86.5% Cabernet Sauvignon and 13.5% Merlot is a classic example of Lafite. (Wine Advocate 94)

LOT 22 - 1 CHATEAU RAYAS CHATEAUNEUF DU PAPE ROUGE 2007 AND 1 CHATEAUNEUF DU PAPE BLANC 2007

The elusive Chateau Rayas has a cult-like status due to its extremely limited production and terroir driven complex style.

Chateauneuf du Pape Rouge 2007

Burgeoning aromatics of black raspberries, black cherries, truffles and licorice lead to a full-bodied, powerful Rayas with sweet tannin, adequate acidity, and an ethereal richness. Sensual texture. This is a spectacular Rayas, the likes of which hasn’t existed at this qualitative level since 1995. (Wine Advocate 98)

Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc 2007

Less than 500 cases made. This full-bodied, powerful wine offers up incredible notes of pineapple, white currants, quince, flowers, poached pear, and caramelized tangerine. (Wine Advocate 95)

Lot 23 - 1 CHATEAU MOUTON ROTHSCHILD 1989

Bright red with a pale rim. Floral, aromatic nose offers scents of lavender, sour red cherry, strawberry jelly, vanilla, cinnamon and minerals. Sweet, suave and fresh, with lively if delicate flavors of ripe red berries and plum nicely lifted by aromatic spices and cedar. (Vinous 90)

LOT 24 - 1 CHATEAU AUSONE 1997

A fine wine, this dark purple-colored effort reveals black raspberry, blackberry, mineral, and floral aromas in its complex, multidimensional bouquet. In the mouth, it is medium-bodied, with sweet, ripe fruit, firm tannin, good acidity, and a long, well-endowed, moderately tannic finish.  (Wine Advocate 91) 

LOT 25 - 1 CHATEAU LAFITE ROTHSCHILD 2004 (Magnum)

Wondrous bouquet, very sensual and pure with blackberry, graphite and cedar - all the hallmarks of Pauillac, delivered with great panache. It is more opulent than I recall. The palate is medium-bodied with silky tannins, pitch-perfect acidity and a beautiful structure. There is a regal sense to this Lafite (Wine Advocate 95)